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CHAS  HILL  & SON,  Sole  Agents, 

AFTON,  - N.  Y 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/notesofmilitaryr00unit_0 


30th  Congress, 
1st  Session. 


[SENATE.] 


Executive, 

No.  7. 


NOTES  0E  A MILITARY  RECONNOISSANCE, 

FROM 

FORT  LEAVE  WORTH,  IN  MISSOURI, 

T O 

SAN  DIEGO,  IN  CALIFORNIA, 

INCLUDING  PART  OF  THE 

ARKANSAS,  DEL  NORTE,  AND  GILA  RIVERS. 


BY  LIEUT.  COL.  W.  H.  EMORY. 


MADE  IN  1846-7,  WITH  THE  ADVANCED  GUARD  OF  THE  “ARMY  OF  THE  WEST.” 


December  16,  1847. 

Read,  and  ordered  to  be  printed  ; and  that  1,000  copies,  in  addition  to  the  usual  number ; 

be  printed  for  the  use  of  the  Senate. 


WASHINGTON: 

WENDELL  AND  VAN  BENTHUYSEN,  PRINTERS. 


1848. 


War  Department, 
Washington , December  15,  1847. 

Sir:  In  compliance  with  a resolution  of  the  Senate  of  the  9th 
instant,  requiring  the  Secretary  of  War  to  communicate  to  the 
Senate  u a copy  of  notes  of  a military  reconnoissance  of  the  route 
from  Fort  Leavenworth,  in  Missouri,  to  San  Diego,  in  California* 
by  Lieutenant  William  H.  Emory,  of  the  topographical  engineers* 
with  a map  of  the  said  route  and  of  the  Arkansas,  Del  Norte,  and 
Gila  rivers;  as  also  the  report  of  Colonel  P.  St.  George  Cook’s 
route  to  California,  after  diverging  from  the  track  of  General 
Kearny,”  I have  the  honor  to  submit  herewith  a report  from  the 
Colonel  of  the  corps  of  topograhical  engineers,  with  the  copies  re- 
quired by  the  resolution. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

W.  L.  MARCY, 

Secretary  of  War . 

Hon.  Geo.  M.  Dallas, 

President  of  the  Senate . 


Bureau  of  Topographical  Engineers, 

Washington , December  15,  1847. 

Sir:  In  obedience  to  your  orders,  I have  the  honor  to  submit  the 
report  of  First  Lieutenant  Emory,  corps  topographical  engineers*, 
of  his  reconnoissance  of  the  route  from  Fort  Leavenworth,  in 
Missouri,  to  San  Diego,  in  California,  being  a reply  to  a resolution 
of  the  Senate  of  the  9th  instant;  also  the  report  and  map  of  the 
route  of  Lieutenant  Colonel  Cook,  being  a deviation  from  the  route 
followed  by  General  Kearny,  from  the  valley  of  the  u Del  Norte” 
to  a point  on  the  u Gila,”  called  for  by  the  same  resolution. 

I beg  leave  to  remark  that  Lieutenant  Emory’s  map,  sent  with 
his  report,  and  founded,  as  the  report  will  show,  upon  numerous 
careful  and  well  digested  astronomical  observations,  is  the  origi- 
nal. We  have  not  had  time. to  make  a copy.  I hope,  therefore, 
that  the  original  will  be  returned  to  the  archieves  of  this  office,  to 
which  it  belongs.  A copy  will  be  made  in  time  for  the  engraver. 
This  course  will  also  afford  opportunity  to  revise  the  map.  There 
is  one  leading  position,  in  reference  to  which  the  computers  of 
observations  disagree  more  than  a minute  in  longitude.  There  is 
also  danger,  if  the  original  goes  into  the  hands  of  the  artist,  that 
it  will  be  defaced  and  seriously  injured. 

The  numerous  sketches  and  drawings  referred  to  in  Emory’s  re- 
port are  retained  in  the  office,  subject  to  the  directions  of  the 
Senate.  These  are  also  originals,  copies  of  which  have  not  yet 
been  made. 

If  the  work  should  be  printed,  it  may  probably  be  advisable  to 


4 


IT] 

"have  the  map  and  sketches  executed  under  the  direction  of  this 
bureau,  as  in  former  instances. 

Respectfully  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  J.  ABERT, 

Colonel  Corps  Topographical  Engineers, 

Hon.  W.  L.  Maucy, 

Secretary  of  War. 


% 


NOTES 


O F 

A MILITARY  RECONNOISS  ANCE, 

PEOM 

FORT  LEAVENWORTH,  IN  MISSOURI,  TO  SAN  DIEGO 

IN  CALIFORNIA, 

INCLUDING 


PART  OF  THE  ARKANSAS,  DEL  NORTE,  AND  .GILA  RIVERS. 


%;-V  , 


INSTRUCTIONS,  AN T)  EXPLANATORY  REMARKS. 


Washington,  September  1,  1847. 

To  Col.  J.  J.  Abert,  * 

Chief  of  the  Corps  of  Topographical  Engineers : 

Sir:  The  following  order  was  received  by  me  June  5th,  1846: 

Bureau  of  Topographical  Engineers, 
Washington , June  5,  1846. 

Sir:  You  will  repair,  without  delay,  to  Fort  Leavenworth,  and 
report  yourself  and  party  to  Colonel  Kearny,  1st  dragoons,  as  field 
and  topographical  engineers  of  his  command.  In  addition  to  your- 
self, the  party  will  consist  of — 

First  Lieutenant  Warner,  now  at  Washington; 

Second  Lieutenant  Abert,  do. 

Second  Lieutenant  Peck. 

Lieutenant  Peck  is  at  West  Point,  but  he  has  been  ordered  to 
repair  to  St.  Louis,  and  report  to  you  at  that  place.  Should  Colo- 
nel Kearny  be  at  St.  Louis,  which  you  will  ascertain  on  passing 
through  that  place,  you  will  report  to  him  at  St.  Louis. 

Although  ordered  to  report  as  field  and  topographical  engineers, 
under  the  regulations,  you  will  not  consider  these  in  the  light  of 
exclusive  duties,  but  will  perform  any  military  duty  which  shall  be 
assigned  to  you  by  Colonel  Kearny  in  accordance  with  your  rank. 

Should  Colonel  Kearny  have  moved  on  the  prairies  with  his  com- 
mand, you  will  make  every  effort  to  overtake  him. 

Respectfully,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  J.  ABERT, 

Colonel  Topographical  .Engineers . 

To  Lieut.  W.  H.  Emory,  Top.  Eng. 

Anticipating  that  the  route  of  Colonel  Kearny’s  command  would 
be  through  unexplored  regions,  your  suggestions  required,  that  in 
all  cases  where  it  did  not  interfere  with  other  and  more  immediate 
military  demands  of  the  service,  the  attention  of  myself,  and  the 
officers  assigned  to  duty  with  me,  should  be  employed  in  collecting 
data  which  would  give  the  government  some  idea  of  the  regions 
traversed. 

The  column  commanded  by  Colonel  Kearny,  to  which  we  were 
attached,  styled  u The  Army  of  the  West,”  to  march  from  Fort 
Leavenworth,  was  destined  to  strike  a blow  at  the  northern  pro- 
vinces of  Mexico,  more  especially  New  Mexico  and  California. 

It  was  supposed  we  would  barely  reach  Fort  Leavenworth  in 
time  to  join  the  army,  and  but  twenty- four  hours  were  allowed  us 


8 


m 

in  Washington  to  collect  the  instruments  and  other  conveniences 
for  such  an  expedition.  This  was  quite  sufficient  for  all  the  objects 
appertaining  directly  to  our  military  w^jits,  but  insufficient  for  the 
organization  and  outfit  of  a party  intended  for  exploration.  In 
submitting  the  following  notes,  they  should  be  received  as  observa- 
tions made  at  intervals  snatched  from  other  duties,  and  with  an  ex- 
pedition whose  movements  were  directed  by  other  considerations 
than  those  which  would  influence  the  views  and  conveniences  of 
an  explorer. 

; We  left  Washington  on  the  6th  of  June,-  unable  to  procure  a pocket 
chronometer,  or  telescope  of  power  sufficient  to  observe  eclipses; 
but  through  your  intercession,  and  by  the  kindness  of  the  Chief  of 
Hydrography,  U.  S.  N.,  we  were  provided  with  two  excellent  box 
chronometers,  No.  783  and  No.  2,(E5,  by  Parkinson  and  Frodsham, 
and  we  received  from  the  bureau  two  of  Gambey’s  8J-inch  sextants. 

Crossing  the  Alleghanies  the  stage  capsized  with  us,  and  placed 
the  chronometers  in  great  danger,  but  the  prudence  of  Mr.  Bestor, 
who  carried  them  in  a basket  on  his  arm,  saved  them  from  destruc- 
tion. Their  rates  were  changed  very  materially  by  the  accident,  but 
subsequent  observations  showed  no  other  injury  had  been  incurred. 

Elaborate  observations  for  time  and  rate  were  made  at  St.  Louis; 
from  which  place,  being  tolerably  well  established  in  geographical 
position,  it  was  intended  to  carry  the  longitude  by  chronometer,  but, 
on  reaching  Fort  Leavenworth,  the  chronometers  were  again  found 
to  have  changed  their  rates  materially,  owing  to  the  peculiarly  un- 
steady and  jarring  motion  of  the  steamer  upon  which  we  ascended. 

The  meridian  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  as  determined  by  Mr.  Ni- 
collet, is  therefore  taken  as  that  to  which  all  the  determinations 
of  longitude  as  far  as  Bent’s  fort,  by  the  chronometer,  are  referred, 
and  any  change  which  subsequent  observations  may  make  in  the 
longitude  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  will  be  common  to  them.  The 
travelling  rates  of  chronometer  783  were,  as  the  observations  will 
show,  very  uniform,  and  longitudes  deduced  from  it,  compared 
with  direct  measurements  of  lunar  distances  made  at  various  points, 
give  satisfactory  comparisons  as  far  as  camp  70,  October  9th,  on 
the  Rio  del  Norte.  At  this  point  we  left  the  wagons,  thence  crossing 
the  mountains  to  the  Gila  river,  some  irregularity  in  the  rates  is  dis- 
coverable, until  wTe  reach  camp  83,  October  26th,  on  the  Gila  river. 

From  that  point  (camp  83)  to  San  Diego,  on  the  Pacific,  the  rates 
were  very  uniform.  Assuming  Captain  Belcher’s  determination  of  that 
point,  lh.  48 m.  44s.,  "west  from  Greenwich,  and  carrying  my  longi- 
tudes back,  they  compare  well  with  the  longitudes  derived  from  the 
direct  measurements  of  lunar  distances  made  at  different  points  on 
the  route. 

The  longitude  between  the  camps  of  October  9th  and  October  26th, 
are  derived  from  direct  measurements,  and  from  lunar  distances. 

Of  the  latitudes. 

The  latitudes  were  determined  by  measuring  with  one  of  the 
Gambey  sextants  the  double  altitudes  of  stars  near  the  meridian, 
and  at  all  important  points  by  observations  on  north  and  south  stars 
as  nearly  as  they  could  be  obtained  of  equal  altitudes.  At  these 


last  points,  where  the  observations  are  multiplied,  their  places  may 
be  depended  upon  to  the  nearest  five  seconds. 

Of  local  time. 

The  local  time  was,  in  all  cases,  determined  by  altitudes  of  the 
heavenly  bodies  on  different  sides  of  the  meridian. 

The  astronomical  observations,  in  number,  were  computed, 

in  the  first  place,  by  myself  and  Mr.  Bestor,  and  subsequently  by 
Professor  J.  C.  Hubbard.  The  results,  as  given  in  the  appendix, 
are  the  final  computations  of  Professor  Hubbard,  whose  well-earned 
reputation  as  a computer  entitles  his  work  to  entire  confidence. 
These  observations  establish  the  geographical  position  of  52  points, 
extending  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  the  Pacific,  most  of  which  lie 
in  regions  before  undetermined. 


Heights  above  the  sea. 

At  Fort  Leavenworth,  through  the  liberality  of  the  medical  de- 
partment, I was  furnished  with  a syphon  barometer,  by  Bunten, 
No.  515,  the  comparison  of  which,  with  the  standard  at  Paris,  is 
given  in  the- subjoined  note. 

Observatoire. — Comparaison  du  barometre  a Syphon,  No.  515  de 
Bunten,  avec  le  barometre  de  l’observatoire. 

Paris,  le 1843 

Le  barometre  No.  515,  donne  des  hauteurs  plus  grandes  que 
celles  qui  sont  indiquees  par  le  barometre  de  l’observatoire,  la  dif- 
ference est  de  0.45  centiemes  de  millimetre. 

Barometre,  observatoire ; 758.74 


Difference 


-{-0.45 


Barometre  de. 


L’observatoire. 

No. 

515. 

12.9 

758.20 

+0.40 

758.60 

12.5 

12.0 

761.50 

+0.50 

762.00 

11.8 

11.3 

762.14 

+0.56 

762.70  . 

11.0 

10.8 

758.06 

+0 . 44 

758.50 

10.0 

8.7 

753.80 

+0.35 

756.15 

8.8 

• 

2.25 

+0.45 

* 

Paris,  le  3 Fevrier , 1843. 

GORYOZ. 


The  d iscussion  of  the  data  upon  which  the  heights  indicated  by 
the  barometer  have  been  founded,  would,  if  pursued,  occupy  some 
space;  for  the  present,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  say  that  the  basis  of 


10 


[7] 

comparison,  as  far  as  Santa  Fe,  is  a series  of  observations  made  at 
Fort  Leavenworth,  with  the  same  instrument,  running  through  twt) 
years;  and  the  height  of  the  hospital  at  Fort  Leavenworth  above 
the  sea  assumed  at  912  feet. 

From  Santa  Fe,  down  the  Del  Norte,  and  thence  west  as  far  as 
camp  83,  of  October  26th,  the  basis  of  comparison  is  the  series  of 
observations,  running  through  two  months,  at  Santa  Fe. 

From  the  camp  of  October  26th,  on  the  Gila,  the  basis  of  com- 
parison is  the  mean  of  the  observations  made  at  San  Diego,  on  the 
Pacific,  near  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  barometer  was  left  on  the 
Pacific,  under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Warner,  topographical  en- 
gineers; and  the  further  observations  made  with  it  on  that  coast 
will  afford,  at  some  future  time,  data  upon  which  to  reconsider  the 
results  now  given,  particularly  those  in  the  last  section.  In  the 
absence  of  corresponding  observations,  the  object  has  bee»,  to  get  a 
column  of  reference,  progressing  west,  with  the  places  observed  at. 

The  formula  used  is  that  of  Altman’s.  The  heights  deduced  are 
marked  on  the  map;  but  they  should  be  considered,  at  best,  but  as 
near  approximations  to  the  tiuth. 

The  time  of  day  at  which  the  observations  were  made  is  not  that 
which  experience  has  shown  to  be  best  ; but,  the  halts  being  be- 
yond my  control,  I was  compelled  to  yield  to  circumstances. 

As  far  as  Santa  Fe,  I received  the  assistance  of  Lieutenants  J. 
W.  Abert  and  G.  W.  Peck,  of  the  corps  of  topographical  engi- 
neers; both  of  whom  had  but  too  recently  returned  from  an  ex- 
ploring expedition  in  less  favored  climates,  and  fell  ill — the  first  at 
Bent’s  fort,  and  the  last  at  Santa  Fe. 

From  Santa  Fe  to  the  Pacific,  I was  aided  by  First  Lieutenant 
W.  H.  Warner,  of  the  topographical  engineers,  and  Mr.  Norman 
Bestor;  all  of  whom  deserve  notice  for  the  zeal  and  industry  with 
which  they  performed  their  duty.  Whilst  with  me,  Lieutenant 
Peck  made  the  topographical  sketches;  after  he  left,  they  were 
made  by  Lieutenant  Warner. 

I would  here  gladly  avail  myself  of  the  opportunity  of  thanking 
Colonel  Robert  Campbell  and  Dr.  fingelmann,*  of  St.  Louis,  for  the 
disinterested  and  efficient  aid  they  rendered  us  in  St.  Louis  in  our 
hurried  preparations  for  a long  and  tedious  journey.  The  advice 
given  us  by  Colonel  Campbell,  a gentleman  of  great  experience  in 
prairie  life,  was  felt  beneficially  to  the  last  of  the  journey. 

The  country  between  Fort  Leavenworth  and  Santa  Fe,  traversed 
by  the  army  of  the  west,  may  be  divided  into  three  great  divisions, 
distinct  in  character,  climate,  and  products,  viz:  from  Fort  Leav- 
enworth to  Pawnee  fork,  from  Pawnee  fork  to  Bent’s  Fort,  and 
from  Bent’s  Fort  to  Santa  Fe. 

The  two  first  divisions  have  been  so  often  traversed,  that  I have 
omitted  my  diary  embracing  them,  contenting  myself  with,  a few 
general  remarks;  but  the  scientific,  and  especially  astronomical  ob- 
servations referring  to  them,  are  as  full  as  in  regard  to  the  other 
regions. 


* An  interesting  acconrU  of  the  cacti  observed  on  the  route,  furnished  by  Dr.  Englemann^ 
will  be  found  in  Appendix  No.  2,  continued. 


For  the  information  of  detachments  moving  on  that  route,  a table 
of  distances  has  been  prepared;  which,  with  the  map,  (though  on 
rather  too  small  a scale  for  military  purposes,)  may  enable  move- 
ments to  be  made  without  other  guides. 

Between  Fort  Leavenworth  and  Pawnee  fork,  the  country  is  a 
high,  rolling  prairie,  traversed  by  many  streams,  the  largest  of 
which  is  the  Kansas,  or  u Kaw;”  and  all  but  this  river  may  be 
forded,  except  during  freshets. 

The  beds  of  the  streams  are  generally  deeply  indented  in  the 
soil,  and  their  banks  almost  vertical,  developing,  where  the  streams 
make  their  incisions  in  the  earth,  strata  of  fossiliferous  limestone, 
of  various  shades  of  brown,  filled  with  the  remains  of  crinoidea. 

On  a branch  of  the  Wah-Karrussi,  where  the  Oregon  trail  strikes 
it,  a seam  of  bituminous  coal  crops  out.  This  is  worked  by  the 
Indians,  one  of  whom  we  met  driving  an  ox-cart  loaded  with 
coal,  to  Westport.  For  the  most  part,  the  soil  is  a sandy  loam, 
covered  with  rich  vegetable  deposite ; the  whole  based  upon 
a stratum  of  clay  and  limestone. 

Trees  are  to  be  seen  only  along  the  margins  of  the  streams,  and 
the  general  appearance  of  the  country  is  that  of  vast,  rolling 
fields,  enclosed  with  colossal  hedges.  The  growth  along  these 
streams,  as  they  approach  the  eastern  part  of  the  section  under 
consideration,  consists  of  ash,  burr  oak,  black  walnut,  chesnut  oak, 
black  oak,  long-leaved  willow,  sycamore,  buck-eye,  American  elm, 
pig-nut  hickory,  hack-berry,  and  sumach;  towards  the  west,  as  you 
approach  the  99th  meridian  of  longitude,  the  growth  along  the 
streams  becomes  almost  exclusively  cotton-wood.  Council  Grove 
creek  forms  an  exception  to  this,  as  most  of  the  trees  enumerated 
above  flourish  in  its  vicinity,  and  render  it,  for  that  reason,  a well- 
known  halting-place  for  caravans,  for  the  repairs  of  wagons,  and 
the  acquisition  of  spare  axles. 

On  the  uplands  the  grass  is  luxuriant,  and  occasionally  is  found 
the  wild  tea,  (amorpha  canescens,)  and  pilot  weed, {silphium  lacin- 
atum;)  the  low  grounds  abound  in  prickly  rush,  narrow  leafed  as- 
clepias,  white  flowering  indigo,  flowering  rush,  spotted  tulip,  bed- 
straw,  wild  burgamot,  spider  wort,  pink  spider  wTort,  pomme 
blanche,  (psoralea  esculenta,)  scarlet  malva,  pilot  weed,  hazel, 
button  bush,  wild  strawberry,  cat-tail,  and  arrow  rush.  , 

As  you  draw  near  the  meridian  of  Pawnee  Fork,  99°  west  of 
Greenwich,  the  country  changes,  almost  imperceptibly,  until  it 
merges  into  the  arid,  barren  wastes  described  under  that  section. 
The  transition  is  marked  by  the  occurrence  of  cacti  and  other  spinose 
plants,  the  first  of  which  we  saw  in  longitude  98°. 

Near  the  same  meridian  the  buffalo  grass*  was  seen  in  small 
quantities,  and,  about  noon,  our  party  was  cheered  for  the  first 
time  by  the  sight  of  a small  u band*7  of  buffalo,  two  of  which 
we  killed,  at  the  expense  of  a couple  of  fine  horses,  which  never 
recovered  from  the  chase.  Horses  occasionally  fed  on  grain  be- 
come very  weak  feeding  on  grass  alone,  and  should  never  in  that 
condition  be  subjected  to  quick  work.  A violation  of  this  precept 


* For  a description  of  this  famous  grass;  see  Appendix  No.  2. 


12 


m 

has  cost  many  volunteers  their  horses,  and  entailed  trouble  without 
end  on  many  inexperinced  travellers  cc  westward  bound. ” The 
next  day  immense  herds  of  the  buffalo  were  seen. 

We  were  now  on  ground  (see  map  of  July  10th)  which  is  tra- 
versed by  the  nomadic  tribes  of  Pawnees,  Sioux,  Osages,  and  oc- 
casionally the  Comanches.  Their  range  is  seldom  farther  east  than 
Council  Grove.  The  country  thence,  to  the  western  borders  of 
Missouri,  is  in  the  hands  of  Indians  owing  allegiance  to,  and  re- 
ceiving stipends  from  the  United  States  ; they  live  in  log-houses, 
cultivate  the  soil,  rear  cattle,  and  pursue  some  of  the  arts  of  peace. 
They  form  the  connecting  link  between  the  savage  of  the  plains 
and  the  white  man  of  the  States. 

The  latitude  of  our  camp,  a few  thousand  feet  southeast  of  where 
the  road  crosses  the  Pawnee  Fork,  is  38°  10'  10";  and  the  longi- 
tude, by  chronometer,  is  98°  55'  22".  The  height  above  the  sea, 
indicated  approximately  by  the  barometer,  is  1,932  feet;  the  point, 
as  will  be  seen  on  the  map,  is  but  a short  distance  from  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Pawnee  Fork  and  the  Arkansas  river. 

The  section  of  country  embraced  between  this  point*  and  Bent’s 
Fort  is  totally  different  in  character  from  that  just  described,  but 
the  change  is  gradual,  and  may  be  anticipated  from  what  has  been 
said  in  referrence  to  the  appearance  of  the  country  so  far  east  as 
the  98th  degree,  or  even  the  97th  meridian. 

The  position  of  our  camp  near  Bent’s  Fort,  determined  by  29  al- 
titudes of  polaris  and  35  circum-meridian  altitudes  of  alpha  aquilse, 
is  38°  02'  53,"  and  the  longitude,  by  the  measurement  of  distances 
between  c and  the  * alpha  aquilse  and  the  * spica  virginis,  is  103° 
01',  agreeing  within  34s.  with  the  chronometric  determination  of 
the  same  point. — (See  Appendix.) 

Our  route  from  Pawnee  Fork  to  this  point,  was  along  the  Arkan- 
sas river.  The  approximate  height  of  Bent’s  Fort  above  the  sea  is 
3,958  feet,  and  the  height  where  we  first  struck  the  river,  at  the 
bend,  is  1,658  feet,  the  distance  between  these  two  points  being  311 
miles,  the  fall  of  the  river  is  about  seven  feet  and  four-tenths  per 
mile.  Its  bed  is  of  sand,  sometimes  of  rounded  pebbles  of  the  pri- 
mitive rock.  It  is  seldom  more  than  150  yards  wide,  and,  but  for 
the  quicksands,  is  every  where  fordable.  The  bottom  land,  a few 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  water,  varies  in  width  from  half  a mile 
to  two  miles,  and  is  generally  covered  with  good  nutritious  grass. 
Beyond  this  the  ground  rises  by  gentle  slopes  into  a wilderness  of 
sand  hills  on  the  south  and  into  prairie  on  the  north.  There  are 
one  or  two  exceptions;  for  instance,  at  the  great  bend, the  sandhills 
from  the  south  impinge  abruptly  on  the  course  of  the  river;  at 
Pawnee  rock,  a long  swell  in  the  ground  terminates  in  an  abrupt 
hill  of  highly  ferruginous  sand  stone;  and  ten  miles  above  Cho- 
teau’s  island,  the  hills  along*  the  river  are  vertical,  as  if  the  river 
had  cut  a passage  through  them;  and  as  you  approach  Bent’s  Fort, 
the  hills  generally  roll  in  more  boldly  on  the  river,  and  the  bottoms 
become  narrower,  and  the  grass  more  precious. 

At  these  places  the  geological  formation  can  be  seen  distinctly. 
On  the  lower  part  of  the  river  it  is  a conglomerate  of  pebbles, 
sometimes  shells  cemented  by  lime  and  clay  overlaying%a  stratum 


13  . [ 7 ] 

of  soft  sand  stone,  which,  in  turn,  over  lays  a blue  shale,  and  some- 
times the  richest  description  of  marl. 

Higher  up  the  river,  we  find  the  same  formation,  but  in  addition 
argillaceous  lime  stone,  containing  amonites  and  other  impressions  - 
of  shells  in  great  variety,  and  in  more  than  one  instance  distinct 
impressions  *of  oyster  shells.  The  dip  in  both  cases  about  6°,  and 
a little  north  of  east. 

The  soil  of  the  plains  is  a granitic  sand,  intermixed  with  the 
exuviae  of  animals  and  vegetable  matter,  supporting  a scanty  vege- 
tation. The  eye  wanders  in  vain  over  these  immense  wastes  in 
search  of  trees.  Not  one  is  to  be  seen.  The  principal  growth  is 
the  buffalo  grass,  cacti  in  endless  variety,  though,  diminutive,  yucca 
angustifolia,  (soap  plant,)  the  Darlingtonia  brachyioba,  schrankia 
uncinata,  prairie  gourd  (cucurbita  aurantia,)  and  very  rarely  that 
wonderful  plant,  the  Ipomea  leptophylla,  called  by  the  hunter  man 
root,  from  the  similarity  of  its  root  in  size  and  shape  to  the  body 
of  a man.  It  is  esculent,  and  serves  to  sustain  human  life  in  some 
of  the  many  vicissitudes  of  hunger  and  privation  to  which  men  who 
roam  the  prairies,  as  an  occupation,  are  subjected. 

July  24 — Near  the  dry  mouth  of  the  Big  Sandy  creek,  the  yucca 
angustifolia,  palmillo  of  the  Spaniards,  or  soap  plant,  first  made  its 
appearance,  and  marked  a new  change  in  the  soil  and  vegetation 
of  the  prairies. 

The  narrow  strip  which  I have  described  as  the  bottom  land  of 
the  Arkansas,  varying  from  half  a mile  to  two  or  three  miles  wide, 
contains  a luxuriant  growth  of  grasses,  which,  by  the  judicious 
selection  and  distribution  of  the  camps,  sustained  all  the  animals 
of  the  army  of  the  west  whilst  on  the  river.  The  only  tree  of  any 
magnitude  found  on  its  course  is  the  cotton-wood,  (populus  cana- 
densis,) and  it  frequently  happens  that  not  one  of  these  is  seen  in 
a whole  day’s  journey,  and  the  buffalo  dung  and  wild  sage  consti- 
tute the  only  fuel  to  be  procured.  About  35  miles  before  reaching 
• Bent’s  Fort  is  found  what  is  called  the  u big  timber.”  Here  the 
valley  of  the  river  widens,  and  the  banks  on  either  side  fall  towards 
•it  in  gentle  slopes.  The  u big  timber”  is  a thinly  scattered  growth 
of  large  cotton  woods  not  more  than  three  quarters  of  a mile  wide, 
and  three  or  four  miles  long.  It  is  here  the  Chyennes,  Arapahoes, 
and  the  Kioways  sometimes  winter,  to  avail  themselves  of  the 
scanty  supply  of  wood  for  fuel,  and  to  let  their  animals  browse  on 
the  twigs  and  bark  of  the  cotton-wood.  The  buffaloes  are  some- 
times driven  by  the  severity  of  the  winter,  which  is  here  intense 
for  the  latitude,  to  the  same  place  to  feed  upon  the  cotton-wood. 
To  this  point,  which  has  been  indicated  to  the  government  as  a 
suitable  one  for  a military  post,  Mr.  Bent  thinks  of  moving  his 
establishment. 

In  addition  to  the  grasses  and  cotton-wood  mentioned,  we  find  in 
the  bottoms  wild  plum,  wild  cherry,  willow,  (salix  longifolia,)  sum- 
mer grape,  (vitis  aestivalis,)  cat-tail,  (typha  latifolia,)  scouring  rush, 
(equisetum  hyemale,)  a powerful  diurectic  upon  horses,  commelina 
angustifolia,  Mexican  poppy,  (argemone  Mexicana,)  monarda  fistu- 
losa,  coreopsis  tinctoria,  psoralea  esculenta,  cassia  chamaercrista. 


14 


m 

several  varieties  of  solidego,  cenothera,  and  helianthus;  among 
■which  was  the  common  sunflower. 

The  animals  of  this  section  of  the  country  are  the  buffalo,  deer, 
antelope,  elk,  marmot,  wolf,  agama  cornuta,  &c.;  but,  for  a more 
specific  knowledge  of  the  natural  history  and  herbarium  of  the 
region  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Bent’s  Fort,  reference  is  made 
to  the  interesting  notes  of  one  of  my  assistants,  Lieutenant  Abert, 
in  appendix  No.  6. 

Except  the  buffalo,  game  is  very  scarce,  and  cannot  be  depended 
upon  to  support  a party  of  men,  however  small  their  number. 
The  buffalo,  where  they  range,  may  be  relied  upon  to  support 
a column  of  many  thousand  men;  but  their  range  is  very  uncertain. 
This  year  it  was  westward,  between  the  98th  degree  and  the  101st 
meridian  of  longitude. 

For  an  account  of  the  country  from  Bent’s  Fort  to  the  Pacific,  I 
submit  my  notes,  in  which  I have  set  down  what  passed  under 
my  own  observation. 

The  accompanying  map  is  also  limited  chiefly  to  the  route  fol- 
lowed, based  upon  the  data  exhibited  in  the  appendices,  and  num- 
bered from  3 to  5. 

For  a more  specific  knowledge  of  the  plants  peculiar  to  the 
country  traversed  than  will  be  found  in  the  journal,  I refer  to  the 
catalogue  prepared  by  that  eminent  botanist,  Dr.  John  Torrey,  to 
whom  all  the  plants  and  drawings  were  submitted — forming  appen- 
dix No.  2.  The  specimens  brought  home  to  aid  me  in  elucidating 
the  geology  of  the  route,  were  submitted  to  Professor  John  Frazer, 
of  the  Pennsylvania  University,  to  whose  learning  and  knowledge 
I am  under  great  obligation. 

The  military  force  under  Colonel  Kearny,  destined  for  the  con- 
quest of  New  Mexico  and  the  countries  beyond,  consisted  of  two 
batteries  of  artillery,  (6-pounders,)  under  the  command  of  Major 
Clark,  three  squadrons  of  the  first  dragoons,  under  Major  Sumner, 
the  first  regiment  of  Missouri  cavalry,  under  Colonel  Doniphan, 
and  two  companies  of  infantry,  under  Captain  Agney.  This  force 
was  detached  in  different  columns  from  Fort  Leavenworth,  and 
were  concentrated  with  admirable  order  and  precision  on  the  1st 
of  August,  at  a camp  nine  miles  below  Bent’s  Fort. 

And  here  I would  take  occasion  to  speak  of  the  excellent  under- 
standing which  prevailed  throughout  between  regulars  and  volun- 
teers, and  the  cheerfulness  with  which  they  came  to  each  others 
assistance  whenever  the  privations  and  hardships  of  the  march 
called  for  the  interchange  of  kindly  offices  among  them.  The 
volunteers,  though  but  recently  accustomed  to  the  ease  and  com- 
forts of  smiling  homes,  bore  up  against  fatigue,  hunger,  and  the 
vicissitudes  of  a long  and  tedious  march,  through  unexplored  re- 
gions, with  a zeal,  courage,  and  devotion  that  would  have  graced 
time-worn  veterans,  and  reflect  the  highest  credit  on  their  conduct 
as  soldiers.  There  was  a noble  emulation  in  the  conduct  of  regulars 
and  volunteers,  which,  in  no  small  degree,  benefitted  the  service ; 
while,  at  the  same  time,  it  promoted  that  cordiality  in  their  inter- 
ests which  will  make  their  future  meetings,  in  the  more  peaceful 
walks  of  life,  a gladsome  event  to  both. 


15 


[7] 


NOTES. 


August  2,  1846.- — I looked  in  the  direction  of  Bent’s  Fort,  and 
saw  a huge  United  States  flag  flowing  to  the  breeze,  and  straining 
every  fibre  of  an  ash  pole  planted  over  the  centre  of  a gate.  The 
mystery  was  soon  revealed  by  a column  of  du*st  to  the  east,  ad- 
vancing with  about  the  velocity  of  a fast  walking  horse — it  was 
u the  Army  of  the  West.”  I ordered  my  horses  to  be  hitched  up, 
and,  as  the  column  passed,  took  my  place  with  the  staff. 

A little  below  the  fort,  the  river  was  forded  without  difficulty, 
being  paved  with  well  attritioned  pebbles  of  the  primitive  rock, 
and  not  more  than  knee  deep. 

We  advanced  five  miles  along  the  river,  where  its  bed  slides 
over  a black  carbonaceous  shale,  which  has  been  mistaken  for 
coal,  and  induced  some  persons  to  dig  for  it. 

Here  we  turned  to  the  left,  and  pursued  our  course  over  an  arid 
elevated  plain  for  twenty  miles,  without  water.  When"  we  reached 
the  Timpas,  we  found  the  water  in  puddles,  and  the  grass  bad. 

Colonel  Eloniphan  was  ordered  to  pursue  the  Arkansas  to  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Timpas,  and  rejoin  the  army  by  following  the 
bed  of  that  stream. 

Near  where  we  left  the  Arkansas,  we  found  on  the  side  of  the 
slope  several  singular  demi-spheroids,  about  the  size  of  an  um- 
brella, coated  with  carbonate  of  lime,  in  pyramidal  crystals, 
which,  at  a distance,  resembled  the  bubbles  of  a huge  boiling  cal- 
dron. 

Along  the  Arkansas  the  principal  growth  consists  of  very  coarse 
grass,  and  a few  cotton-woods,  willows,  and  euphorbia  marginata. 
The  plains  are  covered  with  very  short  grass,  sesleria  dactyloides, 
now  burnt  to  cinder;  artemisia,  in  abundance;  Fremontia  vermicu- 
laris;  yucca  angustifolia,  palmillo,  of  the  Spaniards;  verbena;  eu- 
rotia  lanata,  and  a few  menzelia  nuda. 

The  only  animals  seen  were  one  black-tailed  rabbit  and  an  ante- 
lope; both  of  which  were  killed. 

Our  march  was  26  miles,  that  of  the  army  37;  the  last  20  miles 
without  water. 

The  artillery  arrived  about  11,  p.  m.;  both  men  and  horses  were 
parched  with  thirst.  The  teamsters,  who  had  to  encounter  the  dust, 
suffered  very  much.  When  water  was  near,  they  sprang  from  their 
seats  and  ran  for  it  like  mad  men.  Two  horses  sank  under  this 
day’s  march. 

Our  ascent  was  considerable  to-day.  The  height,  indicated  by 
the  barometer,  being  4,523  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

August  3. — We  ascended  the  Timpas  six  and  three-quarter  miles, 


m is 

and  halted  for  the  day  near  running  water;  the  grass  was  all  burn- 
ed dry,  and  not  a green  sprig  to  be  seen.  Three  buttes  were  passed 
of  singular  appearance;  some  idea  of  which  will  be  given  by  the 
sketch.  They  were  composed  of  lime-stone,  and  were  garnished 
at  their  bases  with  nodules  of  carbonate  of  lime,  like  those  described 
yesterday.  A part  of  our  road  was  on  the  dry  bed  of  a river,  paved 
with  argillaceous  lime-stone,  containing,  now  and  then,  the  impres- 
sion of  oyster  shells  very  distinctly.  The  valley  in  which  we  are 
now  encamped  presents  the  appearance  of  a crater,  being  surround- 
ed with  buttes  capped  with  stunted  cedar,  (juniperus  Yirginianus.) 
The  stratification,  however,  appears  regular,  and  to  correspond  on 
different  sides  of  the  valley. 

The  growth  of  to-day  was  similar  to  that  found  pp  the  plains 
yesterday,  to  which  may  be  added  an  evergreen  and, a magnificent 
cactus  three  feet  high,  with  round  limbs  shaped  like  a rope,  three 
and  a half  inches  in  diameter,  branching  at  right  angles.  It  is  said 
the  Mexicans  make  hedges  of  it. 

Colonel  Doniphan’s  regiment  passed  our  camp  about  4,  p.  m. 

The  water  was  in  pools,  charged  with  vegetable  matter  and  salt. 

The  formation  of  the  adjacent  hills  was  distinct;  first,  a stratum 
of  lime-stone,  ten  feet  thick,  then  hard  samd-stone,  with  amonites 
and  a variety  of  other  shells,  &c.,  overlaying  blue  marl.  From  the 
sides  of  the  hills  protruded  geodes,  with  crystallized  lime-stone,  and 
the  ground  was  everywhere  strewed  with  detached  pieces  of  ferru- 
ginous sand-stone.  On  these  hills  we  found  cedar  growing,  very 
stunted;  Missouri  flax;  several  varieties  of  wild  currants;  a very 
stunted  growth  of  plums;  moss  and  cacti  in  great  variety,  but  di- 
minutive. 

The  latitude  of  this  camp,  by  nine  observations  on  Polaris,  out 
of  the  meridian,  is  37°  44'  56". 

The  longitude  derived  from  the  chronometer,  by  an  estimate  of 
the  local  time  derived  from  eight  measurements  of  the  double  alti- 
tude of  arcturus  on  the  west,  and  seven  of  alpha  aquilae  in  the  east, 
is  64.  54m.  06. 7s. 

The  barometer  reading  indicates  a height  above  the  sea  of  4,761 
feet. 

August  4. — 'The  road  wound  through  the  valley  of  the  Timpas. 
The  soil,  being  impregnated  with  lime,  rendered  the  dust,  which 
rose  in  dense  columns,  distressing. 

Dwarfed  cedar  skirted  the  road  on  each  side.  The  strata  of  hills 
on  either  side  of  the  valley  were  the  same  as  described  yesterday; 
but  the  ferruginous  nodules  and  blocks  of  sand-stone  were  more 
frequent. 

Thirteen  miles’  march  brought  us  to  the  crossing  of  the  Timpas. 
The  only  water  we  found  there  was  in  a hole  40  feet  in  diameter, 
into  which  the  men  rushed  with  great  eagerness,  disturbing  the 
vegetable  deposit  formed  on  its  surface,  and  thereby  rendering  it 
unlit  for  use.  Nine  miles  farther  on  we  came  to  u the  hole  in  the 
rock” — a large  hole  filled  with  stagnant,  though  drinkable,  water. 

We  saw  at  times,  during  the  day,  a few  antelopes,  rabbits,  wild 


17  [71 

horses,  two  jack  dams,  (magpie,)  meadow  larks,  king  birds,  and 
bob  o’lincolns. 

The  pasture  was  so  bad  that  Colonel  Kearny  determined  to  march 
to  th&  “hole  in  the  prairie,55  the  neighborhood  of  which,  though 
said  to  be  destitute  of  water,  affords  some  dry  grass. 

We  passed  a dead  horse  belonging  to  the  infantry,  black,  with 
crows,  and  a wolf  in  their  midst,  quietly  feeding  on  the  carcase. 
This  gave  us  unpleasant  forebodings  for  our  noble,  but  now  attend 
ated,  horses. 

We  reached  the  “hole  in  the  prairie55  at  10,  p.  m. , the  distance 
being  14 J miles,  and  found  grass,  as  we  expected:  we  were  agreea- 
bly surprised  to  find  -water  also.  The  night  was  delicious,  and  alt 
slept  in  the  open  air.  The  infantry  were  encamped  here. 

The  total  distance  to-day  was  36  miles.  The  horses  were  now 
falling  away  in  an  alarming  manner,  but  the  mules  seem  to  require 
the  stimulus  of  distention,  and  nothing  else:  this  the  dry  grass 
affords. 

On  the  march,  about  sunset,  the  Wattahyah  (twin  hills)  rose 
suddenly  to  view,  south  75°  west;  and  then  Pike’s  peak,  20  or  3# 
degrees  farther  to  north.  At  the  same  time  the  dim  outline  of  the 
great  spine  of  the  Rocky  mountain  chain  began  to  show  itself.  We 
were  now  crossing  the  dividing  line  between  the  waters  of  the 
Timpas  and  those  of  the  Purgatory,  or  Los  Animos,  of  the  Span- 
iards. 

The  vegetation  was  the  same  as  that  of  yesterday,  as  far  as  we 
could  judge  from  its  burned  and  parched  condition;  to  which  may 
be  added  a plant  described  by  Dr.  Torrey,  as  physalis  perbalis,  and; 
one  eriogonum  tomentosum. 

Height  of  this  camp  5,560  feet. 

August  5. — To-day  we  descended  eleven  and  a half  miles,  anti 
reached  the  valley  of  the  Purgatory,  called,  by  the  mountain  mens 
Picatoire,  a corruption  of  Purgatoire,  a swift-running  stream,  m 
few  yards  in  width,  but  no  grass  of  any  amount  at  the  crossing. 
The  blighted  trunks  of  large  cotton-wood  and  locust  trees  were 
seen  for  many  miles  along  its  course,  but  the  cause  of  decay  was 
not  apparent. 

The  growth  of  the  bottom,  which  is  very  narrow,  was  black  lo- 
cust, the  everlasting  cotton-wood,  willow,  wild  currants,  hops., 
plum  and  grape,  artemisia,  clematis  Yirginiana,  salix,  in  many  va- 
rieties; and  a species  of  angelica,  but  no  fruit  was  on  the  busl?q,g„ 
Beyond  this  stream  five  and  a half  miles,  we  encamped  ontfhe  be$ 
of  a tributary  to  the  Purgatory,  which  comes  down  from  t'Le  north, 
side  of  the  Raton,  or  Mouse,  which  is  the  name  given  to  a dhai-ft 
of  ragged  looking  mountains  that  strikes  the  course  of  the  Burga< 
tory  nearly  at  right  angles,  and  separates  the  waters  of  the  Atkan* 
sas  from  those  of  the  Canadian.  The  banks  of  the  Pucgatorys 
where  this  stream  debouches,  begin  to  assume  something  of  a moua< 
tain  aspect,  different  from  scenery  in  the  States.  The  hills  are  bare 
of  vegetation,  except  a few  stunted  cedars;  and  the  valley  is  said 
to  be,  occasionally,  the  resort  of  grizzly  bear,  turkeys.,  deer,  ante- 
lope, &c. 


2 


[ 7 ] 18 

Passing  the  rear  wagons  of  the  infantry,  we  found  their  horses 
almost  worn  out,  and  the  train  followed  by  wolves. 

Captain  Cook,  of  the  1st  dragoons,  was  sent  ahead  the  day  before 
yesterday,  to  sound  Armijo.  Mr.  Liffendorfer,  a trader,  married  to 
a Santa  Fe  lady,  was  sent  in  the  direction  of  Taos,  with  two  Pueblo 
Indians,  to  feel  the  pulse  of  the  Pueblos  and  the  Mexican  people, 
and,  probably,  to  buy  wheat  if  any  could  be  purchased,  and  to  dis- 
tribute the  proclamations  of  the  colonel  commanding. 

Yesterday  Wm.  Bent,  and  six  others,  forming  a spy-guard,  were 
sent  forward  to  reconnoitre  the  mountain  passes.  In  this  company 
was  Mr.  F.  P.  Blair,  jr.,  who  had  been  in  this  country  some 
months,  for  the  benefit  of  his  health. 

Measured  13  double  altitudes  of  polaris,  in  the  north,  for  lati- 
tude, and  7 of  alpha  aquilm,  in  the  east,  for  local  time,  and  the  re- 
sulting latitude  is  37°  12'  10#,  and  longitude  64.  56m.  48s.  The 
height  indicated  by  the  barometer  is  5,896  feet. 

August  6. — Colonel  Kearny  left  Colonel  Doniphan’s  regiment 
and  Major  Clarke’s  artillery  at  our  old  camp-ground  of  last  night, 
and  scattered  Sumner’s  dragoons  three  or  four  miles  up  the  creek, 
to  pass  the  day  in  renovating  the  animals  by  nips  at  the  little 
bunches  of  grass  spread  at  intervals  in  the  valley.  This  being 
done,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  Raton,  and,  after  marching 
17  miles,  halted  with  the  infantry  and  general  staff,  within  a half- 
mile  of  the  summit  of  the  pass.  Strong  parties  were  sent  forward 
to  repair  the  road,  which  winds  through  a picturesque  valley,  with 
the  Raton  towering  to  the  left.  Pine  trees  (pinus  rigida)  here  ob- 
tain a respectable  size,  and  lined  the  valley  through  the  whole 
day’s  march.  A few  oaks,  (quercms  olivaformis,)  big  enough  for 
axles,  were  found  near  the  halting-place  of  to-night.  When  we 
first  left  the  camp  this  morning,  we  saw  several  clumps  of  the 
pinon,  (pinus  monophyllus.)  It  bears  a resinous  nut,  eaten  by 
Mexicans  and  Indians.  We  found  also  the  lamita  in  great 
abundance.  It  resembles  the  wild  currant,  and  is,  probably,  one^ 
of  its  varieties;  grows  to  the  height  of  several  feet,  and  bears  a red 
berry,  which  is  gathered,  dried,  pounded,  and  then  mixed  with 
sugar  and  water,  making  a very  pleasant  drink,  resembling  currant 
cordial.  We  were  unfortunate  in  not  being  able  to  get  either  the 
fruit  or  flower.  Neither  this  plant,  the  pinon,  nor  any  of  the  plum 
trees,  nor  grape  vines,  had  any  fruit  on  them;  which  is  attributable 
to  the  excessive  drought.  The  stream,  which  was  last  year  a rush- 
ing torrent,  is  this  year  dry,  and  in  pools. 

The  view  from  our  camp  is  inexpressibly  beautiful,  and  reminds 
persons  of  the  landscapes  of  Palestine.  Without  attempting  a de- 
scription, I refer  to  the  sketch. 

The  rocks  of  the  mountain  were  chiefly  a light  sandstone — in 
strata,  not  far  from  horizontal;  and  the  road  was  covered  with 
many  fragments  of  volcanic  rocks,  of  purplish  brown  color,  porous, 
and  melting  over  a slow  fire.  » 

The  road  is  well  located.  The  general  appearance  is  something 
like  the  pass  at  the  summit  of  the  Boston  and  Albany  railroad,  but 
the  scenery  bolder,  and  less  adorned  with  vegetation. 


19 


m 

An  express  returned  from  the  spy-guard,  which  reported  all  clear 
in  front.  Captain  Cook  and  Mr.  Liffenclorfer  have  only  reached 
the  Canadian  river.  It  was  reported  to  me  that,  at  Captain  Sum- 
ner’s camp,  about  7 miles  above  where  we  encamped  last  night, 
and  12  miles  from  the  summit,  an  immense  field  of  coal  crops  out; 
the  seam  bting  30  feet  deep.  To-night  our  animals  were  refreshed 
with  good  grass  and  water. 

Nine  observations  on  polaris  give,  for  the  latitude  of  the  place, 
37°  00'  21". 

Seven  on  arcturus,  in  the  west,  and  7 on  alpha  aquilee,  in  the 
east,  give  the  chronometric  longitude  64.  57 m.  01.35s. 

Height  above  the  sea,  7,169  feet. 

August  7,  camp  36. — We  recommenced  the  ascent  of  the  Raton, 
which  we  reached  with  ease,  with  our  wagons,  in  about  two  miles. 
The  height  of  this  point  above  the  sea,  as  indicated  by  the  barom- 
eter, is  7,500  feet.  From  the  summit  we  had  a beautiful  view  of 
Pike’s  peakj'  the  Wattahyah,  and  the  chain  of  mountains  running 
south  from  the  Wattahyah.  Several  large  white  masses  were  dis- 
cernible near  the  summits  of  the  range,  which  we  at  first  took  for* 
snow,  but  which,  on  examination  with  the  telescope,  were  found  to 
consist  of  white  limestone,  or  granular  quartz,  of  which  we  after- 
wards saw  so  much  in  this  country.  As  we  drew  near,  the  view 
was  no  less  imposing.  To  the  east  rose  the  Raton,  which  appeared 
still  as  high  as  from  the  camp,  1,500  feet  below.  On  the  top  of  the 
Raton  the  geological  formation  is  very  singular,  presenting  the  ap- 
pearance of  a succession  of  castles.  As  a day  would  be  required 
to  Visit  it,  I was  obliged  to  forego  that  pleasure,  and  examine  it 
merely  with  the  glass.  The  mountain  appears  to  be  formed  chiefly 
of  sandstone,  disposed  in  strata  of  various  shades  of  color,  dipping 
gently  to  the  east,  until  you  reach  near  the  summit,  where  the  cas- 
tellated appearance  commences,  the  sides  become  perpendicular, 
and  the  seams  vertical.  The  valley  is  strewed  with  pebbles  and 
fragments  of  trap  rock,  and  the  fusible  rock  described  yesterday, 
cellular  lava,  and  some  pumice. 

For  two  days  our  way  was  strewed  with  flowers;  exhilarated  by 
the  ascent,  the  green  foliage  of  the  trees  in  striking  contrast  with 
the  deserts  we  had  left  behind,  they  were  the  most  agreeable  days 
of  the  journey.  Among  the  flowers  and  shrubbery  was  the  campa- 
nula rotundifolia,  (hare  bell,)  sida  coccinea,  galium  triflorum,  the 
snowberry,  eriogonum,  geranium  Fremontii,  clematis  virpuenna, 
ranunculus  aquatilis,  euphorbia  marginata,  linum  perenne,  malva 
pedata,  lippia  cuneifolia,  and  many  pretty  varieties  of  convolvulus. 

There  is  said  to  be  a lake,  about  ten  miles  to  the  east  of  the 
summit,  where  inlmense  hordes  of  deei,  antelope,  and  buffalo  con- 
gregate, but  may  be  doubted. 

The  descent  is  much  more  rapid  than  the  ascent,  and,  for  the 
first  few  miles,  through  a valley  of  good  burned  grass  and  stag- 
nant water,  containing  many  beautiful  flowers.  But  frequently 
you  come  to  a place  where  the  stream  (a  branch  of  the  Canadian) 
has  worked  itself  through  the  mountains,  and  the  road  has  to  as- 
cend and  then  descend  a sharp  spur.  Here  the  difficulties  com- 


20 


[7], 

mence ; and  the  road,  for  three  or  four  miles,  is  just  passable  for 
a wagon  ; many  of  the  train  were  broken  in  the  passage.  A f ew 
thousand  dollars  judiciously  expended  here,  would  be  an  immense 
saying  to  the  government  if  the  Santa  Fe  country  is  to  be  perma- 
nently occupied,  and  Bent’s  Fort  road  adopted.  A few  miles  from 
the  summit  we  reached  a wide  valley  where  the  mountains  open 
out,  and  the  inhospitable  looking  hills  recede  to  a respectable  dis- 
tance to  the  right  and  left.  Sixteen  miles  from  camp  36  brought 
us  to  the  main  branch  of  the  Canadian,  a slow  running  stream, 
discharging  a volume  of  water  the  thickness  of  a man’s  waist. 
We  found  here  Bent’s  camp.  I dismounted  under  the  shade  of  a 
cotton-wood,  near  an  ant-hill,  and  saw  something  black  which  had 
been  thrown  out  by  the  busy  little  insects;  and,  on  examination, 
found  it  to  be  bituminous  coal,  lumps  of  which  were  afterwards 
found  thickly  scattered  over  the  plain.  After  crossing  the  river, 
and  proceeding  about  a mile  and  a quarter,  I found  the  party  from 
which  I had  become  separated  encamped  on  the  river,  with  a plen- 
tiful supply  of  grass,  wood,  and  water;  and  here  we  saw,  for  the 
Afirst  time,  a few  sprigs  of  the  famous  grama,  Atheropogon  oligos- 
taclyum. 

The  growth  on  to-day’s  march  was  pinon  in  small  quantities, 
scrub  oak,  scrub  pine,  a fewT  lamita  bushes,  and,  on  the  Canadian, 
a few  cotton-wood  trees;  except  at  the  camp,  there  was  little  or 
no  grass.  The  evening  threatened  rain,  but  the  clouds  passed 
away,  and  wTe  had  a good  night  for  observations.  We  have  had 
no  rain  since  we  left  Cow  creeks,  thirty  days  ago. 

We  are  now  in  what  may  be  called  the  paradise  of  that  part  of 
the  country  between  Bent’s  Fort  and  San  Miguel  ; and  yet  he  who 
leaves  the  edge  of  the  Canadian  or  its  tributaries  must  make  a 
good  day’s  march  to  find  wood,  water,  or  grass. 

There  may  be  mineral  wealth  in  these  mountains,  but  its  dis- 
covery must  be  left  to  some  explorer  not  attached  to  the  staff  of 
an  army  making  f(4rced  marches  into  an  enemy’s  country. 

To-day  commenced  our  half-rations  of  bread;  though  not  suffer- 
ing for  meat,  we  are  anxious  to  seize  on  Santa  Fe  and.  its  stock  of 
provisions  as  soon  as  possible. 

August  8. — We  remained  in  camp  all  day  to  allow  Colonel 
Doniphan’s  regiment  and  the  artillery  to  come  up.  During  the 
day,  we  had  gusts  of  wind,  and  clouds  discharging  rain  to  the 
west.  Captain  Sumner  drilled  his  three  squadrons  of  dragoons, 
and  made  quite  an  imposing  show. 

The  latitude  of  the  camp  is  36°  47'  34";  the  longitude  64.  56m. 
59.75. 

On  the  7th,  I measured  8 altitudes  of  arcturus  -in  the  west,  and 
S of  alpha  aquilse  in  the  east  ; and,  on  the  8th,  10  of  arcturus 
and  8 of  alpha  aquilse — showing  the  rate  of  chronometer  783  to 
be  losing  35.  per  day. 

The  height  determined  approximately,  is  6,112  feet  above  the 
sea. 

August  9. — We  broke  up  camp  at  2^  o’clock,  and  marched  with 
the  colonel’s  staff  and  the  first  dragoons  10J  miles,  and  encamped 


t 


21 


[7] 

under  the  mountains  on  the  western  side  of  the  Canadian,  on  the 
banks  of  a small  stream,  a tributary  of  the  Canadian.  The  grass 
was.  short,  but  good;  the  water  in  small  quantities,  and  in  puddles. 
Here  we  found  a trap-dyke— course  north  83  west — which  shows 
itself  also  on  the  Canadian,  about  four  miles  distant  in  the  same 
course. 

At  the  distance  of  six  miles  from  last  night’s  camp,  the  road 
forks — one  fork  running  near  the  mountains  to  the  west,  but  nearly 
parallel  to  the  old  road,  and  never  distant  more  than  four  miles, 
and  almost  all  the  time  in  sight  of  it.  The  army  was  divided — 
the  artillery,  infantry,  and  wagon  train  ordered  to  take  the  lower, 
and  the  Missouri  volunteers  and  first  dragoons  the  upper  road. 
The  valley  here  opens  out  into  an  extensive  plain,  slightly  rolling, 
flanked  on  each  side  by  ranges  of  perpendicular  hills  covered  with 
stunted  cedar  and  the  pinon.  In  this  extensive  valley  or  plain 
may  be  traced  by  the  eye,  from  any  of  the  neighboring  heights, 
the  valleys  of  the  Canadian  and  its  tributaries,  the  Yermejo,  the 
Poni,  the  Little  Cimarron,  the  Rayada,  and  the  Ocate.  We  saw 
troops  of  antelopes,  horses,  deer,  &c.;  also  cacti  in  great  abund- 
ance, and  in  every  variety;  also  a plant  which  Dr.  De  Camp 
pointed  out  as  being  highly  balsamic;  and  having  collected  quan- 
tities of  it  during  his  campaign  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  tested 
its  efficacy  as  a substitute  for  balsam  cop. 

To-night  we  observed  a great  number  of  insects,  the  first  remarked 
since  leaving  the  Arkansas.  Birds  were  equally  rare,  with  the 
exception  of  the  cow-bunting,  which  has  been  seen  in  great  num- 
bers on  the  whole  route,  and  in  a state  so  tame  as  to  often  alight 
on  our  horses.  The  horned  frog  (agama  cornuta)  also  abounds 
here,  as  well  as  on  the  route  westward  from  Chouteau’s  island. 

August  10. — Colonel  Kearny  was  dissatisfied  with  the  upper  road, 
and  determined  to  strike  for  the  old  road.  We  did  so  after  reach- 
ing the  Yermejo,  9jt  miles  in  a diagonal  line,  and  rejoined  it  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Little  Cimarron,  where  we  foiyid  the  infantry  en- 
camped— total  distance  20J  miles.  The  grass  good,  and  water 
plenty,  though  not  flowing.  Another  trapMyke,  parallel  nearly 
to  the  last,  and  three  mile  distant,  presented  its  wall-like  front. 
It  was  strewed  with  fragments  of  fernigenous  sand-stone  and  crys- 
talized  carbonate  of  lime. 

A Mexican  came  into  camp  from  Bent’s  Fort,  and  reported  Lieu- 
tenant Abert  much  better.  Colonel  Kearny  allowed  him  to  pass 
to  Taos,  which  place  (60  miles  distant  by  a bridle  path)  he  ex- 
pected to  reach  to-night.  The  colonel  sent  by  him  copies  of  his 
proclamation. 

Five  Mexicans  were  captured  by  Bent’s  spy  company;  they  were 
sent  out  to  reconnoitre  our  forces,  with  orders  to  detain  all  per- 
sons passing  out  of  New  Mexico.  They  were  mounted  on  diminu- 
tive asses,  and  presented  a ludicrous  contrast  by  side  of  the  big 
men  and  horses  of  the  first  dragoons.  Fitzpatrick,  our  guide,  who 
seldom  laughs,  became  almost  convulsed  whenever  he  turned  his 
well  practised  eye  in  their  direction. 

Mr.  Towle,  an  American  citizen,  came  to  head-quarters  at  the  Yer- 


22 


[7] 

mejo,  and  reported  himself  just  escaped  from  Taos.  He  brought 
the  intelligence  that,  yesterday,  the  proclamation  of  Governor 
Armijo  reached  there,  calling  the  citizens  to  arms,  and  placing  the 
whole  country  under  martial  law;. that  Armijo  has  assembled  all  the 
Pueblo  Indians,  numbering  about2,000,  and  all  the  citizens  capable 
of  bearing  arms;  that  300  Mexican  dragoons  arrived  in  Santa  Fe 
the  day  Armijo’s  proclamation  was  issued,  and  that  1,200  more  were 
hourly  expected;  that  the  Mexicans  to  a man  were  anxious  for  a 
fight,  but  that  half  the  Pueblo  Indians  were  indifferent  on  the  sub- 
ject, but  would  be  made  to  fight. 

A succession  of  thunder  storms  passed  yesterday  to  the  north 
and  west,  but  did  not  reach  us.  The  ground  indicates  recent  rain, 
as  also  does  the  grass,  which  looks  as  in  the  spring,  just  sprouting. 
The  hills  to  the  left,  as  near  as  I can  judge,  the  same  as  in  the 
Raton,  were  of  different  colored  sand  stone,  regularly  stratified,  and 
dipping  gently  to  the  east,  topped  by  a mural  precipice  of  green 
stone.  The  growth  on  the  mountains,  pinon  and  cedar.  On  the 
plains,  which  are  covered  with  scoriae,  scarcely  a tree  is  to  be  seen. 

We  encamped  on  the  little  Cimarron,  and  observed  at  night  for 
latitude  and  time.  7 altitudes  of  polaris  give  for  the  latitude  36° 
27'  50"  ; 7 on  arcturus  in  the  west,  and  the  same  number  on  alpha 
aquilae  in  the  east  give  the  meridian  by  chronomoter  difference® 
6A.  58m.  39y.  Approximate  height  6,027  feet. 

The  plants  of  to-day,  in  addition  to  many  of  plants  heretofore 
mentioned,  were  the  Erysinum  Arkansanum,  lippa  cuneifolia,  myo- 
sotis  glomerata,  so  frequently  found  on  the  plains,  lytherus  line- 
aris, hypercium'  ellipticium,  several  verbenas,  and  several  new 
varieties  of  oxybaphus,  wild  sage,  and  on  the  streams  a few  cotton- 
wood and  willows. 

August  11. — W e made  a long  march  to-day  with  the  advanced  guard 
and  the  1st  dragoons,  to  the  Ocate,  3l§  miles.  The  road  approaches 
the  Ocate,  at  the  foot  of  a high  bluff  to  the  north,  where  the  river 
runs  through  a canon,  making  it  inaccessible  to  animals.  We  as- 
cend the  river  for  Tour  or  five  miles,  to  where  the  road  crosses  5 
there  we  left  the  road,  and  at  that  point,  the  river  being  dry,  con- 
tinued to  ascend  it  a mile,  and  found  good  grass,  and,  occasionally, 
running  water.  The  scenery  to-day  was  very  pretty,  sometimes 
approaching  to  the  grand;  the  road  passed  through  a succession  of 
valleys,  and  crossed  numerous  u divides”  of  the  Rayada  and  Ocatd. 
The  Rayada  is  a limpid  running  stream,  ten  miles  from  the  little 
Cimarron,  the  first  of  the  kind  noted,  though  we  have  been  tra- 
versing the  bases  of  many  mountains  for  days  past.  The  pasture, 
however,  is  not  good.  At  points  two  and  four  miles  farther,  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  there  are  springs  and  good  grass.  At  the 
last  point  we  overtook  the  infantry,  where  they  halted.  About 
five  miles  before  reaching  the  Ocate,  the  road  descends  into  a 
valley,  overhung  by  confused  and  rugged  cliffs,  which  give  promise 
of  grass  and  water,  but,  on  going  down,  we  found  that  this  beauti- 
ful valley  had  no  outlet,  but  terminated  in  a salt  lake.  The  lake 
is  now  dry,  and  its  bed  is  white  with  a thin  saline  encrustation. 
Here  the  road  is  indistinct,  and  takes  a sudden  turn  to  the  left. 


23 


[ 7 ]. 

At  this  moment  we  discovered  coming  towards  us,  at  full  speed. 
Bent’s  spy-guard.  All  thought  they  had  met  the  enemy;  I was 
ordered  to  ride  forward  to  meet  them,  followed  by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick 
and  two  dragoons.  It  proved  to  be  a false  alarm;  they  had  missed 
their  road,  and  were  galloping  back  to  regain  it. 

The  hills  are  composed  principally  of  basalt  and  a porous  vol- 
canic stone,  very  hard,  with  metallic  fracture  and  lustre,  traversed 
by  dykes  of  trap.  The  lava  is  underlayed  by  sand  stone.  From 
the  uniform  height  of  these  hills,  one  would  think  they  originally 
formed  the  table  land,  and  that  the  valleys  had  been  formed  by 
some  denuding  process,  and  their  limits  determined  by  the  alternate 
existence  or  non-existence  of  the  hard  crust  of  volcanic  rocks. 

. Matters  are  now  becoming  very  interesting.  Six  or  eight  Mexi- 
cans were  captured  last  night,  and  on  their  persons  was  found  the 
proclamation  of  the  Prefect  of  Toas,  based  upon  that  of  Armijo, 
calling  the  citizens  to  arms,  to  repel  the  u Americans,  who  were 
coming  to  invade  their  soil  and  destroy  their  'property  and  liberties 
ordering  an  enrolment  of  all  citizens  over  15  and  under  50.  It  is 
decidedly  less  nombastic  than  any  Mexican  paper  I have  yet  seen. 
Colonel  Kearny  assembled  these  prisoners,  altogether  some  ten  oi 
twelve,  made  a speech  to  them,  and  ordered  that,  when  the  reax 
guard  of  the  army  should  have  passed,  they  should  be  released. 
These  men  were  not  deficient  in  form  or  stature;  their  faces  ex- 
pressed good  nature,  bordering  on  idiocy  ; they  were  mounted  on 
little  donkies  and  jennies,  guided  by  clubs  instead  of  bridles. 

Two  more  Mexicans,  of  a better  class,  were  captured  to-night, 
or  rather  they  came  into  camp.  Their  story  was,  that  they  had 
come  out  by  order  of  the  alcalde  of  the  Moro  town  to  look  out  for 
their  standing  enemies,  the  Eutaws,  who  were  reported  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. That  they  had  heard  of  our  advance  some  time  since, 
but  believed  us  to  be  at  the  Rayada,  22  miles  back;  but  seeing  our 
wagons,  and  having  faith  in  the  Americanos,  they  rode  without  hesi- 
tation into  our  camp.  When  they  said  they  had  faith  in  us,  the 
colonel  ordered  them  to  shake  hands  with  him.  They  were  ordered 
to  be  detained  for  a day  or  two,  for  it  was  quite  evident  to  all  they 
were  spies,  who  had  come  too  suddenly  into  the  little  ravine  in 
which  we  were  encamped. 

They  appeared  well  pleased,  and  one  of  them,  after  proceeding 
a few  steps  with  the  guard,  turned  back  and  presented  the  colonel 
with  a fresh  cream  cheese. 

jCpThe  grass  was  interspersed  with  a great  variety  of  new  and  beau- 
tiful flowers — the  cenothera;  Stanley  pinnatifida;  anemone  Penn- 
sylvania; eriogonum  tomentosum;  erysinum,  Arkansanum,  &c.  &c. 
The  hills  were  sparsely  covered  with  cedar  and  pinon.  Antelopes 
and  horned  frogs  in  abundance,  but  no  other  animals  were  seen. 

Height  of  this  camp  6,946  feet. 

August  12. — The  elder  Mexican  was  discharged,  giving  him  two 
proclamations;  one  for  the  alcalde,  another  for  the  people  of  his 
town.  A message  was  sent  to  the  alcalde  to  meet  us  at  the  cross- 
ing of  the  Moro,  with  several  of  his  chief  men.  The  other  Mexi- 
can was  retained  as  a guide.  About  12  o’clock  the  advance  was 


24 


E'7] 

sounded,  and  the  colonel,  with  Sumner’s  command,  marched  20 
miles,  and  halted  in  a beautiful  valley  of  fine  grass  and  pools  of 
cool  water,  where  the  wild  liquorice  (glycyrrhiza  lepidota)  grew 
plentifully.  The  stream,  where  flowing,  is  a tributary  of  the 
Moro. 

From  the  drift  wood,  &c.,  found  in  its  wide,  well-grassed  bed,  I 
infer  it  is  subject  to  great  freshets.  In  crossing  from  the  Ocat©  to 
the  valley  of  the  Moro,  the  mountains  become  more  rolling;  and 
as  we  approached  the  Moro,  the  valley  opened  out,  and  the  whole 
country  became  more  tame  in  its  appearance. 

Ten  miles  up  the  Moro  is  the  Moro  town,  containing,  we  were 
Informed,  200  houses. 

It  is  off  the  lower  road;  but  a tolerable  wagon  road  leads  to  tjie 
Tillage  from  our  camp  of  last  night. 

The  plains  were  strewed  with  fragments  of  brick-dust  colored 
lava,  scoria?  and  slag;  the  hills,  to  the  left,  capped  with  white 
granular  quartz.  The  plains  are  almost  destitute  of  vegetation; 
the  hills  bear  a stunted  growth  of  piiion  and  red  cedar.  Rains  have 
fallen  here  recently,  and  the  grass  in  the  bottoms  is  good.  The 
grama  is  now  found  constantly.  We  saw  to-day  some  ground 
squirrels,  with  stripes  on  their  sides:  in  their  habits,  resembling  the 
common  prairie  dog.  A flight  of  birds  was  seen  to  the  south,  but  too 
distant  to  distinguish.  We  were  attracted  to  the  left  by  an  object 
which  was  supposed  to  be  an  Indian,  but,  on  coming  up  to  it,  it  was 
discovered  to  be  a sand-stone  block  standing  on  end  and  topped  by 
another  shorter  block.  A mountain  man,  versed  in  these  signs, 
said  it  was  in  commemoration  of  a talk  and  friendly  smoke  between 
some  two  or  three  tribes  of  Indians. 

The  latitude  of  the  place,  from  7 observations  on  polaris,  is  35° 
54'  21",  and  the  longitude,  deduced  from  the  local  time  by  7 alti- 
tudes of  alpha  lyrae  in  the  west,  and  11  of  O in  the  east,  was  64. 
h9m.  4:9s. 

The  height  above  the  sea  6,670  feet. 

August  13. — At  12  o’clock,  as  the  rear  column  came  in  sight,  the 
call  of  “boots  and  saddles”  was  sounded,  and  in  20  minutes  we 
were  off.  We  had  not  advanced  more  than  one  mile  when  Bent, 
©f  the  spy-guard,  came  up  with  four  prisoners.  They  represented 
themselves  to  be  an  ensign  and  three  privates  of  the  Mexican 
army,  sent  forward  to  reconnoitre  and  ascertain  our  force.  They 
said  600  men  were  at  the  Vegas  to  give  us  battle.  They  told 
many  different,  stories;  and  finally  delivered  up  a paper,  being  an 
•order  from  a Captain  Gonzales  to  the  ensign,  to  go  forward  on  the 
Bent’s  Fort  road  to  ascertain  our  position  and  numbers.  They 
were  corss-examined  by  the  colonel,  and  detained. 

As  soon  as  we  commenced  the  descent  into  the  valley  of  the 
Moro  creek,  some  one  reported  a company  of  Mexicans  at  the 
crossing;  Colonel  Kearny  ordered  me  to  go  forward  with  twelve  of 
the  Laclede  rangers,  and  reconnoitre  the  party,  and  if  they  attempt- 
ed to  run,  to  pursue  and  capture  as  many  as  we  could.  As  Lieu- 
tenant Elliot  and  myself  approached  this  company,  they  appeared 
to  be  motionless,  and  on  coming  up,  we  found  them  to  consist  of 


25 


[7] 

nothing  but  the  pine  stakes  of  a corral.  The  dragoons  were  sadly 
disappointed;  they  evidently  expected  either  a light  or  a chase. 
Six  miles  brought  us  to  the  first  settlement  we  had  yet  seen  in  775 
miles.  The  first  object  I saw  was  a pretty  Mexican  woman,  with 
clean  white  stockings,  who  very  cordially  shook  hands  with  us  and 
asked  for  tobacco.  In  the  next  house  lived  Mr.  Boney,  an  Ameri- 
can, who  has  been  some  time  in  this  country,  and  is  the  owner  of  a 
large  number  of  horses  and  cattle,  which  he  manages  to  keep  in 
defiance  of  wolves,  Indians,  and  Mexicans.  He  is  a perfect  speci- 
men of  a generous  open-hearted  adventurer,  and  in  appearance 
what,  I have  pictured  to  myself,  Daniel  Boone,  of  Kentucky,  must 
have  been  id  his  day.  He  drove  his  herd  of  cattle  into  camp  and 
picked  out  the  largest  and  fattest,  which  he  presented  to  the  army. 

Two  miles  below,  at  the  junction  of  the  Moro  and  Sapillo,  is 
another  American,  Mr.  Wells,  of  North  Carolina;  he  has  been  here 
but  six  months,  and  barring  his  broad-brimmed  sombrero,  might 
have  been  taken  for  a sergeant  of  dragoons,  with  his  blue  panta- 
loons with  broad  gold-colored  stripes  on  the  sides,  and  his  jacket 
trimmed  with  lace.  1 bought  butter  from  him  at  four  bits  the  pound. 

We  halted  at  the  Sapillo,  distance  nine  and  a half  miles  from  our 
last  night’s  encampment,  in  a tremendous  shower  of  rain;  the*grass 
was  indifferent,  being  clipped  short  by  the  cattle  from  the  ranche- 
ria.  Wood  and  water  plenty. 

At  this  place  a Mr.  Spry  came  into  camp,  on  foot,  and  with 
scarcely  any  clothing.  He  had  escaped  from  Santa  Fe  on  the  night 

previous,  at  Mr.  H ’s  request,  to  inform  Colonel  Kearny  that 

Armijo’s  forces  were  assembling;  that  he  might  expect  vigorous 
resistance,  and  that  a place  called  the  Canon,  15  miles  from  Santa 
Fe,  was  being  fortified;  and  to  advise  the  Colonel  to  go  round  it. 

The  canon  is  a narrow  defile,  easily  defended,  and  of  which  we  have 
heard  a great  deal.  War  now  seems  “inevitable;”  and  the  advan- 
tages of  ground  and  numbers  will,  no  doubt,  enable  the  Mexicans 
to  make  the  fight  interesting.  The  grass  was  miserable,  and  the  camp 
ground  inundated  by  the  shower  of  to-day, — which  was  quite  a 
rarity. 

Barometric  height  6.395  feet. 

August  14. — The  order  of  march  to-day  was  that  which  could 
easily  be  converted  into  the  order  of  battle.  After  proceeding  a 
few  miles  we  met  a queer  cavalcade,  which  we  supposed  at  first  to 
be  the  looked  for  alcalde  from  Moro  town,  but  it  proved  to  be  a 
messenger  from  Armijo;  a lieutenant,  accompanied  by  a sergeant 
and  two  privates,  of  Mexican  lancers.  The  men  were  good  looking 
enough,  and  evidently  dressed  in  their  best  bib  and  tucker.  The 
creases  in  their  pantaloons  were  quite  distinct,  but  their  horses 
were  mean  in  the  extreme,  and  the  contempt  with  .which  our  dra- 
goons were  filled  was  quite  apparent.  The  messenger  was  the 
bearer  of  a letter  from  Armijo.  It  was  a sensible,  straightforward 
missive,  and  if  written  by  an  American  or  Englishman,  w’ould  have 
meant  this:  u You  have  notified  me  that  you  intend  to  take  posses- 
sion of  the  country  I govern.  The  people  of  the  country  have 
risen,  en  masse,  in  my  defence.  If  you  take  the  country,  it  will 


26 


[7] 

be  because  you  prove  the  strongest  in  battle.  I suggest  to  you  to 
stop  at  the  Sapillo,  and  I will  march  to  the  Yegas.  We  will  meet 
and  negotiate  on  the  plains  between  them.” 

The  artillery  were  detained  some  time  in  passing  the  Sapillo. 
This  kept  us  exposed  to  the  sun  on  the  plains  for  four  hours,  but  it 
gave  the  colonel  time  to  reflect  on  the  message  with  which  he  should 
dismiss  the  lancers;  as  there  was  some  apprehension  that  Captain 
Cook  was  detained,  their  discharge  became  matter  for  reflection. 
Sixteen  miles  brought  us  in  sight  of  the  Yegas,  a village  on  the 
stream  of  the  same  name. 

A halt  was  made  at  this  point,  and  the  colonel  called  up  the  lieu- 
tenant and  lancers  and  said  to  them,  u The  road  to  Saflta  Fe  is  now 
as  free  to  you  as  to  myself.  Say  to  General  Armijo,  I*  shall  soon 
meet  him,  and  I hope  it  wiT'be  as  friends.” 

At  parting,  the  lieutenant  embraced  the  colonel,  Captain  Turner, 
and  myself,  who  happened  to  be  standing  near. 

The  country  to-day  was  rolling,  almost  mountainous,  and  cov- 
ered in  places  with  scoriae.  Grass  began  to  show  itself,  and  was 
interspersed  with  malva  pedata,  lippia  cunefolia,  and  several  new 
species  of  geraniacae,  bartonia,  and  convolvulus.  The  soil  was 
good  enough  apparently,  but  vegetation  was  stunted  from  the  want 
of  rain.  As  we  emerged  from  the  hills  into  the  valley  of  the  Yegas, 
our  eyes  were  greeted  for  the  first  time  with  waving  corn.  The 
stream  was  flooded,  and  the  little  drains  by  which  the  fields  were 
irrigated,  full  to  the  brim.  The  dry  soil  seemed  to  drink  it  in  with 
the  avidity  of  our  thirsty  horses.  The  village,  at  a short  distance, 
looked  like  an  extensive  brick-kiln.  On  approaching,  its  outline 
presented  a square  with  some  arrangements  for  defence.  Into  this 
square  the  inhabitants  are  sometimes  compelled  to  retreat,  with  all 
their  stock,  to  avoid  the  attacks  of  the  Eutaws  and  Navahoes,  who 
pounce  upon  them  and  carry  off  their  women,  children,  and  cattle. 
Only  a few  days  since,  they  made  a descent  on  the  town  and  car- 
ried off  120  sheep  and  other  stock.  As  Captain  Cook  passed  through 
the  town  some  ten  days’  since,  a murder  had  just  been  committed 
on  these  helpless  people.  Our  camp  extended  for  a mile  down  the 
valley;  on  one  side  was  the  stream,  on  the  other  the  cornfields, 
wfith  no  fence  or  hedge  interposing.  What  a tantalizing  prospect 
for  our  hungry  and  jaded  nags;  the  water  was  free,  but  a chain  of 
sentinels  was  posted  to  protect  the  corn,  and  strict  orders  given 
that  it  should  not  be  disturbed. 

Captain  Turner  was  sent  to  the  village  to  inform  the  alcalde  that 
the  colonel  wished  to  see  him  and  the  head  men  of  the  town.  In 
a short  time  down  came  the  alcalde  and  two  captains  of  militia, 
with  numerous  servants,  prancing  and  careering  their  little  nags 
into  camp. 

Observations . — 9 altitudes  of  polaris  in  the  north,  7 of  arcturus 
in  the  east,  and  7 of  alpha  aquilae  in  the  east. 

Latitude  35°  35'  05”. 

Longitude  7 h.  00 m.  46s. 

Height,  by  the  barometer,  6,418  feet. 

August  15. — 12  o’clock  last  night  information  was  received  that 


27 


m 

600  men  had  collected  at  the  pass  which  debouches  into  the  Yegas, 
two  miles  distant,  and  were  to  oppose  our  march.  In  the  morning, 
orders  were  given  to  prepare  to  meet  the  enemy.  At  7,  the  army 
moved,  and  just  as  we  made  the  road  leading  through  the  town, 
Major  Swords,  of  the  quartermaster’s  department,  Lieutenant  Gil- 
mer, of  the  engineers,  and  Captain  Weightman  joined  us,  from 
Fort  Leavenworth,  and  presented  Colonel  Kearny  with  his  com- 
mission as  brigadier  general  in  the  army  of  the  United  States. 
They  had  heard  we  were  to  have  a battle,  and  rode  sixty  miles 
during  the  night  to  be  in  it. 

At  eight,  precisely,  the  general  was  in  the  public  square,  where 
he  was  met  by  the  alcalde  and  people;  many  of  whom  were  mount- 
ed, for  these  people  seem  to  live  on  horseback. 

The  general  pointed  to  the  top  of  one  of  their  houses,  which  are 
built  of  one  story,  and  suggested  to  the  alcalde  that  if  he  would  go 
to  that  place  he  and  his  staff  would  follow,  and  from  that  point, 
where  all  could  hear  and  see,  he  would  speak  to  them;  which  he 
did,  as  follows:  1 

uMr.  Alcalde  and  people  of  New  Mexico:  I have  come  amongst 
you  by  the  orders  of  my  government,  to  take  possession  of  y©ur 
country,  and  extend  over  it  the  laws  of  the  United  States.  We 
consider  it,  and  have  done  so  for  some  time,  a part  of  the  territory 
of  the  United  States.  We  come  amongst  you  as  friends — not  as 
enemies;  as  protectors — not  as  conquerors.  We  come  among  you 
for  your  benefit — not  for  your  injury. 

u Henceforth  I absolve  you  from  all  allegiance  to  the  Mexican 
government,  and  from  all  obedience  to  General  Armijo.  He  is  no 
longer  your  governor;  [great  sensation.]  I am  your  governor.  I 
shall  not  expect  you  to  take  up  arms  and  follow  me,  to  fight  your 
own  people  who  may  oppose  me;  but  I now  tell  you,  that  those 
who  remain  peaceably  at  home,  attending  to  their  crops  and  their 
herds,  shall  be  protected  by  me  in  their  property,  their  persons, 
and  their  religion;  and  not  a pepper,  nor  an  onion,  shall  be  dis- 
turbed or  taken  by  my  troops  without  pay,  or  by  the  consent  of 
the  owner.  But  listen!  he  who  promises  to  be  quiet,  and  is  found 
in  arms  against  me,  I will  hang. 

uFrom  the  Mexican  government  you  have  never  received  pro- 
tection. The  Apaches  and  the  Navajhoes  come  down  from  the 
mountains  and  carry  off  your  sheep,  and  even  3/our  women,  when- 
ever they  please.  My  government  will  correct  all  this.  It  will 
keep  off  the  Indians,  protect  you  in  your  persons  and  property; 
and,  I repeat  again,  will  protect  you  in  your  religion.  I know  you 
are  all  great  Catholics;  that  some  of  your  priests  have  told  you  all 
sorts  of  stories-— that  we  should  ill-treat  your  women,  and  brand 
them  on  the  cheek  as  you  do  your  mules  on  the  hip.  It  is  all  false. 
My  government  respects  your  religion  as  much  as  the  Protestant 
religion,  and  allows  each  man  to  worship  his  Creator  as  his  heart 
tells  him  is  best.  Its  laws.protect  the  Catholic  as  wrell  as  the  Pro- 
testant; the  weak  as  well  as  the  strong;  the  poor  as  well  as  the 
rich.  I am  not  a Catholic  myself — I was  not  brought  up  in  that 
faith;  but  at  least  one-third  of  my  army  are  Catholics,  and  I re- 
spect a good  Catholic  as  much  as  a good  Protestant. 


28 


m 

“There  goes  my  army — you  see  but  a small  portion  of  it;  there 
are  many  more  behind — resistance  is  useless. 

“Mr.  alcalde,  and  you  two  captains  of  militia,  the  laws  of  my 
country  require  that  all  men  who  hold  office  under  it  shall  take  the 
oath  of  allegiance.  I do  not  wish  for  the  present,  until  affairs  be- 
come more  settled,  to  disturb  your  form  of  government.  If  you 
are  prepared  to  take  oaths  of  allegiance,  I shall  continue  you  in 
office  and  support  your  authority.55 

This  was  a bitter  pill;  but  it  was  swallowed  by  the  discontented 
captain,  with  downcast  eyes.  The  general  remarked  to  him,  in 
hearing  of  all  the  people:  “ Captain,  look  me  in  the  face  while  you 
repeat  the  oath  of  office.57  The  hint  was  understood;  the  oath 
taken,  and  the  alcalde  and  the  two  captains  pronounced  to  be  con- 
tinued in  office.  The  citizens  "were  enjoined  to  obey  the  alcalde, 
&c.  &c.  The  people  grinned,  and  exchanged  looks  of  satisfaction; 
but  seemed  not  to  have  the  boldness  to  express  what  they  evidently 
felt — that  their  burdens,  if  not  relieved,  were  at  least  shifted  to 
some  ungalled  part  of  the  body. 

We  descended  by  the  same  ricketty  ladder  by  which  we  had 
climbed  to  the  tops  of  the  houses,  mounted  our  horses,  and  rode 
briskly  forward  to  encounter  our  600  Mexicans  in  the  gorge  of  the 
mountains,  two  miles  distant. 

The  sun  shone  with  dazzling  brightness;  the  guidons  and  colors 
of  each  squadron,  regiment,  and  battalion  were  for  the  first  time 
unfurled.  The  drooping  horses  seemed  to  take  courage  from  the 
gay  array.  The  trumpeters  sounded  “ to  horse,55  with  spirit,  and 
the  hills  multiplied  and  re-echoed  the  call.  All  wore  the  aspect 
of  a gala  day;  and,  as  we  approached  the  gorge,  where  we  expected 
to  meet  the  enemy,  we  broke  into  a brisk  trot,  then  into  a full  gal- 
lop, preceded  by  a squadron  of  horse.  The  gorge  was  passed,  but 
no  person  seen. 

One  by  one  the  guidons  were  furled;  the  men  looked  disappoint- 
ed, and  a few  minutes  found  us  dragging  our  slow  lengths  along 
with  the  usual  indifference  in  regard  to  every  subject  except  that 
of  overcoming  space. 

Two  miles  further  brought  us  to  another  pass  as  formidable  as 
the  first,  and  all  the  intermediate  country  was  broken  and  covered 
with  a dense  growth  of  pine,  pinon,  and  cedar.  Here  the  moun- 
tains of  red  sand-stone,  disposed  in  horizontal  strata,  begin  to  rise 
to  the  height  of  a thousand  feet  above  the  road.  Nine  miles  more 
brought  us  to  Tacolote. 

Here  we  met  the  alcalde  and  the  people  in  the  cool  and  spacious 
residence  of  the  former,  "where  the  drama  above  described  was 
again  enacted.  This  time  it  was  graced  by  the  presence  of  the 
women  with  their  bare  ankles,  round  plump  arms,  and  slippered 
feet. 

We  marched  ten  miles  farther,  to  the  Vernal  springs,  and  halted 
at  the  upper  spring,  and  observed  for  ^ime  and  latitude  about  500 
feet  south  of  the  upper  spring. 

Observed  9 altitudes  of  polaris,  7 of  alpha  aquilse,  and  7 of  arc- 
turus.  Latitude  35°  23'  19";  longitude  7 h.  01  m.  235. 


29 


m 


Height  indicated  by  the  barometer  6,299  feet. 

August  16. — We  marched  to  San  Miguel,  where  General  Kearny 
assembled  the  people  and  harangued  them  much  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  at  the  Yegas. 

Reports  now  reached  us  at  every  step  that  the  people  were  rising, 
and  that  Armijo  was  collecting  a formidable  force  to  oppose  our 
march  at  the  celebrated  pass  of  the  Canon,  15  miles  from  Santa  Fe. 
About  the  middle  of  the  day’s  march  the  two  Pueblo  Indians,  pre- 
viously sent  in  to  sound  the  chief  men  of  that  formidable  tribe, 
were  seen  in  the  distance,  at  full  speed,  with  arms  and  legs  both 
thumping  into  the  sides  of  their  mules  at  every  stride.  Something 
was  now  surely  in  the  wind.  The  smaller  and  foremost  of  the  two 
dashed  up  to  the  general,  his  face  radiant  with  joy,  and  exclaimed, 
u they  are  in  the  Canon,  my  brave,  pluck  up  your  courage  and  push 
them  out.”  As  soon  as  his  extravagant  delight  at  the  prospect  of 
a fight,  and  the  pleasure  of  communicating  the  news,  had  subsided, 
he  gave  a pretty  accurate  idea  of  Armijo’s  force.and  position. 

The  road  passed  over  to-day  was  good,  but  the  face  of  the  coun- 
try exceedingly  rugged,  broken,  and  covered  with  pinon  and  cedar. 
To  the  left,  one  or  two  miles  distant,  towers  a wall,  nearly  per- 
pendicular, 2,000  feet  high,  apparently  level  on  the  top,  and  show- 
ing, as  near  as  I could  judge  from  the  road,  an  immense  stratum  of 
red  sand-stone. 

We  turned  from  the  road  to  the  creek,  where  there  were  a few 
rancherias,  to  encamp;  at  which  place  we  passed  an  uncomfortable 
night,  the  water  being  hard  to  reach,  and  the  grass  very  bad. 

Barometric  height  6,346  feet. 

August  17. — -The  picket  guard,  stationed  on  the  road,  captured 
the  son  of  Saliza,  who,  it  is  said,  is  to  play  an  important  part  in 
the  defence  of  this  country,  and  the  same  who  behaved  so  brutally 
to  the  Texan  prisoners.  The  son  was  at  San  Miguel  yesterday, 
and  heard  from  a concealed  place  all  that  passed.  It  is  supposed, 
at  this  time,  he  was  examining  the  position,  strength,  &c.,  of  our 
army,  to  report  to  his  father. 

A rumor  has  reached  camp  that  the  2,000  Mexicans  assembled  in 
the  Canon  to  oppose  us,  have  quarrelled  among  themselves;  that 
Armijo,  taking  advantage  of  the  dissensions,  fled  with  his  dragoons 
and  artillery  to  the  south.  He  has  long  been  suspected  of  wishing 
an  excuse  to  fly.  It  is  well  known  he  has  been  averse  to  a battle, 
but  some  of  his  people  threatened  his  life  if  he  refused  to  fight. 
He  has  been,  for  some  days,  more  in  fear  of  his  own  people  than 
of  the  American  army.  He  has  seen  what  they  are  blind  to:  the 
hopelessness  of  resistance. 

As  we  approached  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  town  of  Pecos,  a large 
fat  fellow,  mounted  on  a mule,  came  towards  us  at  full  speed,  and 
extending  his  hand  to  the  general,  congratulated  him  on  the  arrival 
of  himself  and  army.  He  said,  with  a roar  of  laughter,  Armijo 
and  his  troops  have  gone  to  hell,  u and  the  Canon  is  all  clear.” 
This  was  the  alcalde  of  the  settlement,  two  miles  up  the  Pecos 
from  the  ruins,  where  we  encamped,  15|  miles  from  our  last  camp, 
and  two  miles  from  the  road. 


30 


m 

Pecos,  once  a fortified  town,  is  built  on  a promontory  or  rock, 
somewhat  in' the  shape  of  a foot.  Here  burned,  until  within  seven 
years,  the  eternal  fires  of  Montezuma,  and  the  remains  of  the 
architecture  exhibit,  in  a prominent  manner,  the  engraftment  of 
the  Catholic  churc%  upon  the  ancient?  religion  of  the  country:  At 

one  end  of  the  short  spur  forming  the  terminus  of  the  promontory, 
are  the  remains  of  the  estuffa,  with  all  its  parts  distinct;  at  the 
other  are  the  remains  of  the  Catholic  church,  both  showing  the  dis- 
tinctive marks  and  emblems  of  the  two  religions.  The  fires  from 
the  estuffa  burned  and  sent  their  incense  through  the  same  altars 
from  which  was  preached  the  doctrine  of  Christ.  Two  religions 
so  utterly  different  in  theory,  were  here,  as  in  all  Mexico,  blended 
in  harmonious  practice  until  about  a century  since,  when  the  town 
was  sacked  by  a band  of  Indians. 

h;  Amidst  the  havoc  of  plunder  of  the  city,  the  faithful  Indian  man- 
aged to  keep  his  fire  burning  in  the  estuffa;  and  it  was  continued 
till  a few  years  since — the  tribe  became  almost  extinct.  Their  de- 
votions rapidly  diminished  their  numbers,  until  they  became  so  few 
as  to  be  unable  to  keep  their  immense  estuffa  (forty  feet  in  diame- 
ter) replenished,  when  they  abandoned  the  place  and  joined  a tribe 
of  the  original  race  over  the  mountains,  about  sixty  miles  south. 
There,  it  is  said,  to  this  day  they  keep  up  their  fire,  which  has 
never  yet  been  extinguished.  The  labor,  watchfulness,  and  expo- 
sure to  heat  consequent  on  this  practice  of  their  faith,  is  fast  re- 
ducing this  remnant  of  the  Montezuma  race;  and  a few  years  will, 
in  all  probability,  see  the  last  of  this  interesting  people.  The  ac- 
companying sketches  will  give  a much  more  accurate  representa- 
tion of  these  ruins  than  any  written  descriptions.  The  remains  of 
the  modern  church,  with  its  crosses,  its  cells,  its  dark  mysterious 
corners  and  niches,  differ  but  little  from  those  of  the  present  day 
in  New  Mexico.  The  architecture  of  the  Indian  portion  of  the 
ruins  presents  peculiarities  worthy  of  notice. 

Both  are  constructed  of  the  same  materials:  the  walls  of  sun- 
dried  brick,  the  rafters  of  well-hewn  timber,  which  could  never 
have  been  hewn  by  the  miserable  little  axes  now  used  by  the  Mex- 
icans, which  resemble,  in  shape  and  size,  the  wedges  used  by  our 
farmers  for  splitting  rails.  The  cornices  and  drops  of  the  archi- 
trave in  the  modern  church,  are  elaborately  carved  with  a knife. 

To-night  we  found  excellent  grass  on  the  Rio  Pecos,  abreast  of 
the  ruins  where  the  modern  village  of  Pecos  is  situated,  with  a 
very  inconsiderable  population. 

August  18.  —We  wrere  this  morning  29  miles  from  Santa  Fe. 
Reliable  information,  from  several  sourfces,  had  reached  camp  yes- 
terday and  the  day  before,  that  dissensions  had  arisen  in  Armijo’s 
camp,  which  had  dispersed  his  army,  and  that  he  had  fled  to  the 
south,  carrying  all  his  artillery  and  100  dragoons  with  him.  Not 
a hostile  riflle  or  arrow  was  now  between  the  army  and  Santa  Fe, 
the  capital  of  New  Mexico,  and  the  general  determined  to  make 
the  march  in  one  day,  and  raise  the  United  States  flag  over  the 
palace  before  sundown.  New  horses  or  mules  were  ordered  for  the 
artillery,  and  every  thing  was  braced  up  for  a forced  march.  The 


\ 1 1 ins  o.r  I ’(‘cos  . Oa.tbo.  Chu  reh 


■'< 


1 


)-■ 


Rums  of  Pecos. Aztek  Church. 


31  [7] 

distance  was  not  great,  but  the  road  bad,  and  the  horses  on  their 
last  legs. 

A small  detachment  was  sent  forward  at  day-break,  and  at  six 
the  army  followed.  Four  or  five  miles  from  old  Pecos  the  road 
leads?  into  a canon,  with  hills  on  each  side  from  1,000. to  2,000  feet 
above  the  road,  in  all  cases  within  cannon  shot,  and  in  many  with- 
in point  blank  musket  shot;  and  this  continues  to  a point  but  12  or 
15  miles  from  Santa  Fe. 

The  scenery  is  wild;  the  geological  formation  much  the  same  as 
before  described,  until  you  begin  to  descend  towards  the  Del  Norte, 
when  granitic  rocks  and  sands  are  seen  in  great  abundance  on  the 
road  as  far  as  Santa  Fe.  Cedar,  piiion,  and  a large  growth  of  long- 
leafed  pine  are  densely  crowded  wherever  the  rock  affords  a cre- 
vice, until  within  six  or  eight  miles  of  the  town.  Fifteen  miles 
from  Santa  Fe  we  reached  the  position  deserted  by  Armijo.  The 
topographical  sketch,  by  Lieutenant  Peck,  will  give  some  idea  of 
it.  It  is  a gateway  which,  in  the  hands  of  a skilful  engineer  and 
one  hundred  reso]ute  men,  would  have  been  perfectly  impregnable. 

Had  the  position  been  defended  with  any  resolution,  the  general 
would  have  been  obliged  to  turn  it  by  a road  which  branches  to 
the  south,  six  miles  from  Pecos,  by  the  way  of  Galisteo. 

Armijo’s  arrangements  for  defence  were  very  stupid.  His  abattis 
was  placed  behind  the  gorge  some  100  yards,  by  which  he  evident- 
ly intended  that  the  gorge  should  be  passed  before  his  fire  was 
opened.  This  done,  and  his  batteries  would  have  been  carried  with- 
out difficulty. 

Before  reaching  the  canon  the  noon  halt  was  made  in  a valley 
covered  with  some  gama,  and  the  native  potato  in  full  bloom. 
The  fruit  was  not  quite  as  large  as  a wren’s  egg.  As  we  approach- 
ed the  town,  a few  straggling  Americans  came  out,  ail  looking  anx- 
iously for  the  general,  who,  with  his  staff,  was  clad  so  plainly,  that 
they  passed  without  recognizing  us.  Another  officer  and  myself 
were  sent  down  to  explore  the  by-road  by  wffiich  Armijo  fled.  On 
our  return  to  the  main  road,  we  saw  two  Mexicans;  one  the  acting 
secretary  of  state,  in  search  of  the  general.  They  had  passed  him 
without  knowing  him.  When  we  pointed  in  the  direction  of  the 
general,  they  broke  into  a full  run;  their  hands  and  feet  keeping 
time  to  the  pace  of  their  nags.  We  followed  in  a sharp  trot;  and, 
as  we  thought,  at  a respectable  distance.  Our  astonishment  was 
great  to  find,  as  they  wound  through  the  ravine,  through  the  open 
well-grown  pine  forest,  that  they  did  not  gain  on  us  perceptibly. 
“ Certainly  they  are  in  a full  run,  and  as  certainly  are  we  only  in 
a trot,”  we  both  exclaimed.  I thought  we  wrere  under  some  opti- 
cal delusion,  and  turned  to  my  servant  to  see  the  pace  at  which  he 
was  going.  “Ah!”  said  he,  “those  Mexican  horses  make  a mighty 
great  doing  to  no  purpose.”  That  was  a fact;  with  their  large 
cruel  bits,  they  harrass  their  horses  into  a motion  which  enables 
them  to  gallop  very  long  without  losing  sight  of  the  starting  place. 

The  acting  secretary  broughi  a letter  from  Vigil,  the  lieutenant 
governor,  informing  the  general  of  Armijo’s  flight,  and  of  his  readi- 
ness to  receive  him  in  Santa  Fe,  and  extend  to  him  the  hopitalities 


32 


m 

of  the  city.  He  was  quite  a youth,  and  dressed  in  the  fashion  of 
the  Americans.  Here,  all  persons  from  the  United  States  are  call- 
ed Americans,  and  the  name  is  extended  to  no  other  race  on  the 
continent.  To-day’s  march  was  very  tedious  and  vexatious;  wishing 
to  enter  Santa  Fe  in  an  imposing  form,  frequent  halts  were  made  to 
allow  the  artillery  to  come  up.  Their  horses  almost  gave  out,  and 
during  the  day  mule  after  mule  was  placed  before  the  guns,  until 
scarcely  one  of  them  was  spared. 

The  head  of  the  column  arrived  in  sight  of  the  town  about  three 
o’clock;  it  was  six  before  the  rear  came  up.  Vigil  and  twenty  or 
thirty  of  the  people  of  the  town  received  us  at  the  palace  and  asked 
us  to  partake  of  some  wine  and  brandy  of  domestic  manufacture. 
It  was  from  the  Passo  del  Norte;  we  were  too  thirsty  to  judge  of 
its  merits,  any  thing  liquid  and  cool  was  palatable.  During  the 
repast,  and  as  the  sun  was  sitting,  the  United  States  flag  was  hoist- 
ed over  the  palace,  and  a salute  of  thirteen  guns  fired  from  the 
artillery  planted  on  the  eminence  overlooking  the  town. 

The  ceremony  ended,  we  wTere  invited  to  supper  at  Captain  ’s, 

a Mexican  gentleman,  formerly  in  the  army.  The  supper  was  serv- 
ed very  much  after  the  manner  of  a French  dinner,  one  dish  suc- 
ceeding another  in  endless  variety.  A bottle  of  good  wine  from 
the  Passo  del  Norte,  and  a loaf  of  bread  was  placed  at  each  plate. 
We  had  been  since  five  in  the  morning  without  eating,  and  inex- 
haustible as  were  the  dishes  was  our  appetite. 

August  19. — I received  an  order  to  make  a reconnoissance  of  the 
town  and  select  the  site  for  a fort,  in  co-operation  with  Lieutenant 
Gilmer,  of  the  engineers.  This  occupied  me  diligently  on  the  19th 
and  20th,  and  on  the  21st  the  general  was  furnished  with  the  map, 
a copy*  of  which  is  sent  to  the  Adjutant  General  and  another  to  the 
Eureau  of  Topographical  Engineers. 

The  site  selected  and  marked  on  the  map  is  within  600  yards  of 
the  heart  of  the  town,  and  is  from  60  to  100  feet  above  it.  The 
contour  of  the  ground  is  unfavorable  for  the  trace  of  a regular 
work,  but  being  the  only  point  which  commands  the  entire  town, 
and  which  is  itself  commanded  by  no  other,  we  did  not  hesitate  to 
recommend  it.  The  recommendation  was  approved.  On  the  22d 
we  submitted  a complete  plan  of  the  work,  which  was  also  approv- 
ed. It  is  computed  for  a garrison  of  280  men. 

On  the  23d,  the  work  was  commenced  with  a small  force;  on  the 
27th,  100  laborers  were  set  to  work  on  it,  detailed  from  the  army;; 
and,  on  the  31st,  20  Mexican  masons  were  added. 

As  it  was  determined  to  send  an  express  to  the  States  on  the  25th,, 
I commenced  to  project  and  plot  my  map  of  the  route  of  the  Army 
of  the  West,  that  the  government  might  have  at  once  the  benefit 
of  my  labors.  It  was  rather  a bold  undertaking  to  compress,  in  a 
few  days,  the  work  of  months.  My  astronomical  observations  were 
brought  up  from  day  to  day  as  we  advanced  on  the  march,  without 
which  the  understanding  would  have  been  impracticable.  We  all 
worked  day  and  night,  and,  with  the  assistance  of  several  gentle- 
men of  the  volunteers,  I succeeded  in  accomplishing  the  work  : 
not,  however,  in  a very  satisfactory  manner. 


Events  now  begin  to  crowd  on  each  other  in  quick  succession, 
but  my  duties  keep  me  so  constantly  occupied  in  my  office  and  in 
the  field,  that  I cannot  chronicle  them  in  regular  order  or  enter 
much  upon  details.  On  the  morning  of  the  19th,  the  general  as- 
sembled all  the  people  in  the  plaza  and  addressed  them  at  some 
length.. 

The  next  day,  the  chiefs  and  head  men  of  the  Pueblo  Indians 
came  to  give  in  their  adhesion  and  express  their  great  satisfaction  at 
our  arrival.  This  large  and  formidable  tribe  are  amongst  the  best 
and  most  peaceable  citizens  of  New  Mexico.  They,  early  after  the 
Spanish  conquest,  embraced  the  forms  of  religion,  and  the  manners 
and  customs  of  their  then  more  civilized  masters,  the  Spaniards. 
Their  interview  was  long  and  interesting.  They  narrated,  what  is  a 
tradition  with  them,  that  the  white  man  would  come  from  the  far 
east  and  release  them  from  the  bonds  and  shackles  which  the 
Span'ards  had  imposed,  not  in  the  name,  but  in  a worse  form  than 
slavery. 

They  and  the  numerous  half-breeds  are  our  fast  friends  now  and 
forever.  Three  hundred  years  of  oppression*  and  injustice  have 
failed  to  extinguish  in  this  race  the  recollection  that  they  were 
once  the  peaceable  and  inoffensive  masters  of  the  country. 

A message  was  received  the  same  night  from  Armijo,  asking  on 
what  terms  he  would  be  received;  but  this  proved  to  be  only  a ruse, 
on  his  part  to  gain  time  in  his  flight  to  the  south.  Accounts  go  to 
show  that  his  force  at  the  Gallon  was  4,000  men,  tolerably  armed, 
and  six  pieces  of  artillery.  Had  he  been  possessed  of  the  slightest 
qualifications  for  a general,  he  might  have  given  us  infinite  trouble. 
A priest  arrived  last  night,  the  29th,  and  brought  the  intelligence 
that  at  the  moment  of  Armijo’s  flight,  Ugarte,  a colonel  in  the  re- 
gular service,  was  on  his  march,  at  this  side  of  the  Passo  del  Norte, 
with  500  men  to  support  him.  That,  had  he  continued,  he  would 
have  been  enabled  to  rouse  the  whole  southern  district,  which  is  by 
far  the  wealthiest  and  most  populous  of  the  whole  country. 

In  the  course  of  the  week,  various  deputations  have  come  in  from 
Taos,  giving,  in  their  allegiance  and  asking  protection  from  the 
Indians.  That  portion  of  the  country  seems  the  best  disposed  to- 
wards the  United  States.  A Taos  man  may  be  distinguished  at 
once  by  the  cordiality  of  his  salutation. # 

A band  of  Navajoes,  naked,  thin,  and  savage  looking,  fellows, 
dropped  in  and  took  up  their  quarters  with  Mr.  Robideapx,  our 
interpreter,  just  opposite  my  quarters.  They  ate,  drank,  and  slept 
all  the  time,  noticing  nothing  but  a little  cinnamon-colored  naked  brat 
that  was  playing  in  the  court,  which  they  gazed  at  with  the  eyes 
of  gastronome’s;  and  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  told  me  these  people  some- 
times eat  their  own  offspring,  and  consider  it  a great  delicacy. 

Various  rumors  have  reached  us  from  the  south  that  troops  are 
moving  on  Santa  Fe,  and  that  the  people  are  rising,  &c.  To  quiet 


* Since  this  was  written,  the  massacre  of  the  excellent  Governor  33  mt  has  taken  place  in 
Taos.  It  proves  the  profound  duplicity  of  this  race. 


34 


m 

them ? an  expedition  of  150  miles  down  the  river  has  been  deter- 
mined on,  to  start  on  the  1st  September.  - 

August  30. — To-day  we  went  to  Ghurch  in  great  state.  The  gov- 
ernor’s seat,  a large,  well  stuffed  chair,  covered  with  crimson,  was 
occupied  by  the  commanding  officer.  The  church  was  crowded 
with  an  attentive  audience  of  men  and  women,  but  not  a word  was 
uttered  from  the  pulpit  by  the  priest,  who  kept  his  back  to  tae 
congregation  the  whole  time,  repeating  prayers  and  incantations. 
The  band,  the  identical  one  used  at  the  fandango,  and  strumming 
the  same  tunes,  played  without  intermission.  Except  the  gover- 
nor’s seat  and  one  row  of  benches,  there  were  no  seats  in  the  church. 
Each  woman  dropped  on  her  knees  on  the  bare  floor  as  she  entered, 
and  only  exchanged  this  position  for  a seat  on  the  ground  at  long 
intervals,  announced  by  the  tinkle  of  a small  bell. 

The  interior  of  the  church  was  decorated  with  some  fifty  crosses, 
a great  irumber  of  the  most  miserable  paintings  and  wax  figures, 
and  looking  glasses  trimmed  with  pieces  of  tinsel. 

The  priest,  a very  grave,  respectable  looking  person,  of  fair  com- 
plexion, commenced  the  service  by  sprinkling  holy  water  over  the 
congregation;  when  abreast  of  any  high  official  person  he  extended 
his  silver  water  spout  and  gave  him  a handful. 

When  a favorite  air  was  struck  up,  the  young  women,  whom  we 
recognised  as  having  figured  at  the  fandango,  counted  their  beads, 
tossed  their  heads,  and  crossed  themselves  to  the  time  of  the  music. 

All  appeared  to  have  just  left  their  work  to  come  to  church. 
There  was  no  fine  dressing  nor  personal  display  that  will  not  be 
seen  on  week  days.  Indeed,  on  returning  from  church,  we  found  • 
all  the  stores  open,  and  the  market  women  selling  their  melons  and 
plums  as  usual. 

The  fruits  of  this  place,  musk  melon,  apple,  and  plum,  are  very 
indifferent,  and  would  scarcely  be  eaten  in  the  States.  I must  ex- 
cept, in  condemning  their  fruit,  the  apricot  and  grapes,  which  grow 
in  perfection.  On  leaving  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Santa  Fe, 
which  varies  from  a thousand  feet  to  a mile  or  two  in  width,  the 
country  presents  nothing  but  barren  hills,  utterly  incapable,  both 
from  soil  and  climate,  of  producing  anything  useful. 

The  valley  is  entirely  cultivated  by  irrigation,  and  is  now,  as  will 
be  seen  on  the  sketch,  covered  with  corn.  Five  miles  below  the 
town,  the  stream  disappears  in  the  granitic  sands. 

The  population  of  Santa  Fe  is  from  two  to  four  thousand,  and 
the  inhabitants  are,  it  is  said,  the  poorest  people  of  any  town  in  the 
province.  The  houses  are  of  mud  bricks,  in  the  Spanish  style, 
generally  of  one  story,  and  built  on  a square.  The  interior  of  the 
square  is  an  open  court,  and  the  principal  rooms  open  into  it.  They 
are  forbidding  in  appearance  from  the  outside,  but  nothing  can  ex- 
ceed the  comfort  aiid  convenience  of  the  interior.  The  thick  walls 
make  them  cool  in  summer  and  warm  in  winter. 

The  better  class  of  people  are  provided  with  excellent  beds,  but 
the  lower  class  sleep  on  untanned  skins.  The  women  here,  as  in 
many  other  parts  of  the  world,  appear  to  be  much  before  the  men 
in  refinement,  intelligence,  and  knowledge  of  the  useful  arts.  The 


higher  class  dress  like  the  American  women,  except,  instead  of 
the  bonnet,  they  wear  a scarf  oyer  the  head.  This  they  wear, 
asleep  or  awake,  in  the  house  or  abroad. 

The  dress  of  the  lower  class  of  women  is  a simple  petticoat,  with 
arms  and  shoulders  bare,  except  what  may  chance  to  be  covered  by 
the  reboso. 

The  men  who  have  means  to  do  so,  dress  after  our  fashion;  but  by 
far  the  greater  number,  when  they  dress  at  all,  wear  leather 
breeches,  tight  round  the  hips  and  open  from  the  knee  down;  shirt 
and  blanket  take  the  place  of  our  coat  and  vest. 

The  city  is  dependant  on  the  distant  hills  for  wood,  and  at  all 
hours  of  the  day  may  be  seen  jackasses  passing  laden  with  wood, 
which  is  sold  at  two  bits  (twenty-live  cents)  the  load.  T.iese  are 
the  most  diminutive  animals,  and  usually  mounted  from  behind, 
after  tne  fashion  of  leap-fsog.  The  jackass  is  the  only  animal  that 
can  be  subsisted  in  this  barren  neighborhood  without  great  expense; 
our  horses  are  all  sent  to  a distance  of  twelve,  fifteen,  and  thirty 
miles  for  grass. 

Grain  was  very  high  when  we  first  entered  the  town,  selling 
freely  at  five  and  six  dollars  the  fanegas,  (one  hundred  and  forty 
pounds.)  As  our  wagons  draw  near,  and  the  crops  of  wheat  are 
being  gathered,  the  price  is  falling  gradually  to  four  dollars  the 
fanegas. 

Milk  at  six  cents  per  pint,  eggs  three  cents  a piece,  sugar  thirty- 
five  cents  per  pound,  and  coffee  seventy-five  cents.  The  sugar  used 
in  the  country  is  principally  made  from  the  cornstalk. 

A great  reduction  must  take  place  now  in  the  price  of  drygoods 
and  groceries,  twenty  per  cent,  at  least,  for  this  was  about  the  rate 
of  duty  charged  by  Armijo,  which  is  now,  of  course,  taken  off. 

He  collected  fifty  or  sixty  thousand  dollars  annually,  principally, 
indeed,  entirely,  on  goods  imported  overland  from  the  United  States. 
His  charge  was  $500  the  wagon  load,  without  regard  to  the  con- 
tents of  the  wagon,  or  value  of  the  goods,  and  hence  the  duty  was 
very  unjust  and  unequal. 

Mr.  Alvarez  informed  me  that  the  importations  from  the  United 
States  varied  very  much,  but  that  he  thought  they  would  average 
about  half  a million  of  dollars  yearly,  and  no  more.  Most  of  the 
wagons  go  on  to  Chihuahua  without  breaking  their  loads. 

New  Mexico  contains,  according  to  the  last  census,  made  a few 
years  since,  100,000  inhabitants.  It  is  divided  into  three  depart- 
ments— the  northern,  middle,  and  southeastern.  These  are  again 
sub-divided  into  counties,  and  the  counties  into  towmships.  The 
lower  or  southern  division  is  incomparably  the  richest,  containing 
48,000  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  are  wealthy  and  in  possession 
of  farms,  stock,  and  gold  dust. 

New  Mexico,  although  its  soil  is  barren,  and  its  resources  limit- 
ed, unless  the  gold  mines  should,  as  is  probable,  be  more  extensively 
developed  hereafter,  and  the  culture  of  the  grape  enlarged,  is,  from 
its  position,  in  a commercial  and  military  aspect,  an  all-important 
military  possession  for  the  United  States.  The  road  from  Santa  Fe 
to  Fort  Leavenworth  presents  few  obstacles  for  a railway,  and,  if  it 


36 


4 


m 

continues  as  good  to  the  Pacific,  will  be  one  of  the  routes  to  be 
considered,  over  which  the  United  States  will  pass  immense  quanti- 
ties of  merchandise  into  what  may  become,  in  time,  the  rich  and 
populous  States  of  Sonora,  Durango,  and  Southern  California. 

As  a military  position,  it  is  important  and  necessary.  The  moun- 
tain fastnesses  have  long  been  the  retreating  places  of  the  warlike 
parties  of  Indians  and  robbers,  who  sally  out  to  intercept  our  cara- 
vans moving  over  the  different  lines  of  travel  to  the  Pacific. 

The  latitude  of  Santa  Fe,  determined  by  52  circum-meridian  al- 
titudes of  alpha  aquilee,23  of  beta  aquarii,  and  36  altitudes  of  polaris 
out  of  the  meridian,  is  N.  35°  44'  06".  The  longitude,  by  the  meas- 
urement of  8 distances  between  the  * alpha  aquilse  and  the  <t  , and  8 
between  * airfares  and  the  d , is  respectively  7 h.  04 m.  145.7  and 
7 h.  04 m.  22^.4.  The  mean  of  which  is  7 h.  04 m.  185.  and  the 
longitude  brought  by  the  chronometer  from  the  meridian  of  Fort 
Leavenworth  is  7 h.  04 m.  0 5s. 5. — (See  Appendix  No.  4.) 

The  place  of  observation  was  the  court  near  the  northeast  corner 
of  the  public  square.  The  latitude  may  be  considered  fixed;  but 
satisfactory  as  the  longitude  may  appear,  I should,  nevertheless, 
have  greatly  multiplied  the  number  of  lunar  distances,  had  I not 
been  in  daily  expectation  of  receiving  a transit  instrument,  with 
which  a set  of  observations  on  moon  culminating  stars  could  have 
heen  made  at  this  important  geographical  point. 

The  mean  of  all  the  barometric  readings  at  Santa  Fe  indicates, 
as  the  height  of  this  point  above  the  sea,  6,846  feet,  and  the  neigh- 
boring peaks  to  the  north  are  many  thousand  feet  higher. 

August  31. — Lieutenant  Warner  arrived  to-day,  but  cannot  yet 
be  relieved  from  ordnance  duty.  To-morrow  an  expedition  goes  to 
Taos,  but,  as  Mr.  Peck  is  sick,  I have  no  officer  to  send  with  it. 
To-day  apparently  well  authenticated  accounts  have  arrived  that 
Armijo  met  Ugarte,  about  150  miles  below,  coming  up  with  a force 
of  500  regulars  and  some  pieces  of  artillery;  that  he  turned  back,, 
and  is  now  marching  towards  us  with  a large  force,  rallying  the 
people  as  he  passes,  and  that  numbers  are  joining  him  from  the 
upper  towns.  In  consequence  of  these . reports,  the  general  has 
strengthened  the  force  with  which  he  is  to  march  the  day  after  to- 
morrow to  meet  him. 

September  2. — We  marched  out  of  Santa  Fe  at  9 o’clock,  a.  m., 
taking  no  one  of  my  party  except  Mr.  Bestor,  and  leaving  Lieuten- 
ant Peck,  who  is  still  an  invalid,  to  assist  Lieutenant  Gilmer.  We 
descended  the  valley  of  the  Santa  Fe  river,  nearly  west,  for  five 
miles,  vThen  we  left  the  river  and  struck  across  a dry  arid  plain  in- 
tersected by  arroyos,  (dry  beds  of  streams,)  in  a southwesterly 
course.  Twenty-three  miles  brought  us  to  the  Galisteo  creek, 
which,  at  that  time,  was  barely  running.  The  bed  of  the  creek  is 
sand  and  pebbles  of  the  primitive  rock,  and  lies  between  steep 
clay  and  lime-stone,  traversed  occasionally  by  trap  dykes,  which 
In  one  place  are  so  regular  as  to  resemble  a wall  pierced  with  win- 
dows. From  this  place  to  its  mouth  there  is  scarcely  the  sign  of 
vegetation.  At  the  dry  mouth  of  the  Galisteo,  and  directly  on  the 
Del  Norte,  is  the  town  of  Santo  Domingo.  Before  reaching  Galis- 


37 


[7] 

teo  creek,  but  after  leaving  Santa  Fe  some  miles,  a few  sprigs  of 
grama  tempted  us  to  halt  and  bait  our  nags.;  but  the  principal 
growth  on  the  plains  was  ephedra,  Fremontia  vermicularis,  diotis 
lanata,  (Romeria  of  the  Spaniards,)  hendecandia  Texana.  There 
was  also  picked  up  in  to-day’s  journey  a verbena  pinnatifida,  spha- 
eralcea  stellata,  a cleome  integriiolia,  (a  handsome  purple  flowered 
herb,)  several  aster  and  a species  of  dicteria,  which  Dr.  Torrey  thinks 
new. 

September  3. — This  has  been  a great  day.  An  invitation  was  re- 
ceived, some  days  since,  from  the  Pueblo  Indians  to  visit  their  town 
of  Santo  Domingo.  From  height  to  height,  as  we  advanced,  we 
-saw  horsemen  disappearing  at  full  speed.  As  we  arrived  abreast 
of  the  town  we  were  shown  by  a guide,  posted  there  for  the  pur- 
pose, the  road  to  Santo  Domingo.  The  chief  part  of  the  command 
and  the  wagon  train  w.ere  sent  along  the  highway;  the  general  wTith 
his  staff  and  Captain  Burgwyn’s  squadron  of  dragoons,  wended  his 
way  along  the  bridle  path  nearly  due  west  to  the  town.  We  had 
not  proceeded  far,  before  we  met  ten  or  fifteen  sachemic  looking 
old  Indians,  well  mounted,  and  two  of  them  carrying  gold-headed 
canes  with  tassels,  the  emblems  of  office  in  New  Mexico. 

Salutations  over,  we  jogged  along,  and,  in  the  course  of  conver- 
sation, the  alcalde,  a grave  and  majestic  old  Indian,  said,  as  if 
casually,  u We  shall  meet  some  Indians  presently,  mounted  and 
dressed  for  war,  but  they  are  the  young  men  of  my  town,  friends 
come  to  receive  you,  and  I wish  you  to  caution  your  men  not  to 
Are  upon  them  when  they  ride  towards  them.” 

When  within  a few  miles  of  the  town,  we  saw  a cloud  of  dust 
rapidly  advancing,  and  soon  the  air  was  rent  with  a terrible  yell, 
resembling  the  Florida  war-whoop.  The  first  object  that  caught  my 
eye  through  the  column  of  dust,  was  a fierce  pair  of  buffalo  horns, 
overlapped  with  long  shaggy  hair.  As  they  approached,  the  sturdy 
form  of  a naked  Indian  revealed  itself  beneath  the  horns,  with 
shield  and  lance,  dashing  at  full  speed,  on  a white  horse,  which, 
like  his  own  body,  was  painted  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow;  and 
then,  one  by  one,  his  followers  came  on,  painted  to  the  eyes,  their 
own  heads  and  their  horses  covered  with  all  the  strange  equipments 
that  the  brute  creation  could  afford  in  the  way  of  horns,  skulls, 
tails,  feathers,  and  claws. 

As  they  passed  us,  one  rank  on  each  side,  they  fired  a volley 
under  our  horses’  bellies  from  the  right  and  from  the  left.  Our 
well-trained  dragoons  sat  motionless  on  their  horses,  which  went 
along  without  pricking  an  ear  or  showing  any  sign  of  excitement. 

Arrived  in  the  rear,  the  Indians  circled  round,  dropped  into  a 
walk  on  our  flanks  until  their  horses  recovered  breath,  when  off 
they  went  at  full  speed,  passing  to  our  front,  and  when  there,  the 
opposite  files  met,  and  each  man  selected  his  adversary  and  kept  up 
a running  fight,  with  muskets,  lanees,  and  bows  and  arrows. 
Sometimes  a fellow  would  stoop  almost  to. the  earth  to  shoot  under 
his  horses’  belly,  at  full  speed,  or  to  shield  himself  from  an  impend- 
ing blow.  So  they  continued  to  pass  and  repass  us  all  the  way  to 
the  steep  cliff  which  overhangs  the  town.  There  they  filed  on  each 


side  of  the  road,  which  descends  through  a deep  canon,  and  halted 
on  the  peaks  of  the  cliffs.  Their  motionless  forms  projected  against 
the  clear  blue  sky  above,  formed  studies  for  an  artist.  In  the  can- 
on we  were  joined  by  the  priest,  a fat  old  white  man.  We  were 
escorted  first  to  the  padre’s,  of  course;-  for  here,  as  every  where, 
these  men  are  the  most  intelligent,  and  the  best  to  do  in  the  world, 
and  when  the  good  people  wish  to  put  their  best  foot  foremost,  the 
padre’s  wines,  beds,  and  couches  have  to  suffer.  The  entrance  to 
the  portal  was  lined  with  the  women  of  the  village,  all  dressed 
alike,  and  ranged  in  treble  files;  they  looked  fat  and  stupid. 

We  wTere  shown  into  his  reverence’s  parlor,  tapestried  with  cur- 
tains stamped  with  the  likenesses  of  all  the  Presidents  of  the 
United  States  up  to  this  time.  The  cushions  were  of  spotless 
damask,  and  the  couch  covered  with  a white  Navajoe  blanket 
worked  in  richly  colored  flowers. 

The  air  was  redolent  with  the  perfume  of  grapes  and  melons,  and 
every  crack  of  door  and  windows  glistening  with  the  bright  eyes 
and  arms  of  the  women  of  the  capilla.  The  old  priest  was  busily 
talking  in  the  corner,  and  little  did  he  know  the  game  of  sighs  and 
signs  carried  on  between  the  young  fellows  and  the  fair  inmates  of 
his  house.  We  had  our  gayest  array  of  young  men  out  to-day,  and 
the  women  seemed  to  me  to  drop  their  usual  subdued  look  and 
timid  wave  of  the  eye-lash  for  good  hearty  twinkles  and  signs  of 
unaffected  and  cordial  welcome — signs  supplying  the  place  of  con- 
versation, as  neither  party  could  speak  the  language  of  the  other. 
This  little  exchange  of  the  artillery  of  eyes  was  amusing  enough, 
but  I was  very  glad  to  see  the  padre  move  towards  the  table,  and 
remove  the  pure  white  napkins  from  the  grapes,  melons,  and  wine. 
We  were  as  thirsty  as  heat  and  dust  could  make  us,  and  we  relished 
the  wine  highly,  whatever  its  quality.  The  sponge  cake  was  irre- 
proachable, and  would  have  done  honor  to  our  best  northern  house- 
keepers. Indeed,  -wherever  we  have  been  feasted,  the  sponge  cake 
has  been  in  profusion,  and  of  the  best  kind.  After  the  repast,  the 
general  went  forward  on  the  portal  and  delivered  a speech  to  the 
assembled  people  of  the  town,  which  was  first  interpreted  into 
Spanish,  and  then  into  Pueblo. 

It  is  impossible  to  arrive  at  the  precise  population  of  the  town, 
but  I should  judge  it  to  be  about  six  hundred,  and  the  quantity  of 
ground  under  tillage  for  their  support  about  five  hundred  acres. 

The  valley  of  the  Del  Norte  is  here  quite  narrow,  and  the  soil 
sandy.  The  river  itself  was  viewed  by  me,  for  the  first  time,  with 
a strange  interest.  The  hardships,  trials,  and  perseverance  of  the 
gallant  Pike,  and  the  adventures  of  the  pious  and  brave  soldiers  of 
the  cross,  Rivera  and  La  Ford,  came  forcibly  to  my  mind;  as  I 
kneeled  down  to  drink  of  its  waters  my  thoughts  were  of  them. 
Leaving  Santo  Domingo,  we  struck  the  highway  in  about  four 
miles,  and  two  more  brought  us  to  the  pretty  village  of  San  Felippe,, 
overhung  by  a steep  craggy  precipice,  upon  the  summit  of  which 
are  the  ruins  of  a Roman  Catholic  church,  presenting  in  the  land- 
scape sketch  the  appearance  of  the  pictures  we  see  of  the  castles 
on  the  Rhine. 


39  [ 7 ] 

Petween  San  Felippe  and  the  Angosturas,  six  miles  below,  the 
valley  of  the  river  is  very  narrow,  affording  no  interval  for  agri- 
culture. On  the  west  side,  the  banks  are  steep  walls,  crowned  by 
seams  of  basalt  forming  the  table  lands.  The  east  is  composed  of 
rolling  sand  hills,  rising  gradually  to  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
and  covered  with  large  round  pebbles.  I must  except  from  this 
the  poverty-stricken  little  town  of  Algodones,  which  has  some 
ground  round  it  in  cultivation. 

The  observations  for  the  determination  of  this  camp,  about  one 
mile  below  the  town  of  San  Felippe,  were  made  on  my  return, 
(September  10th,)  and  will  be  found  under  that  date  in  Appendix 
No.  5.  The  height  indicated  by  the  barometer  of  this,  the  first 
camp  on  the  Rio  del  Norte,  is  5,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea. 

.September  4. — Below  the  Angosturas,  the  valley  of  the  river 
opens  into  a plain,  varying  from  two  to  six  miles  in  width,  gener- 
ally sufficiently  low  and  level  to  admit  the  water  of  the  river  to 
be  carried  over  it  for  the  purposes  of  irrigation-  but  the  soil  is 
very  sandy,  and  better  adapted  to  Indian  corn  than  wheat.  Of  this 
last  we  saw  but  few  stubbles,  the  ground  being  chiefly  planted  with 
corn.  The  vegetation  is  much  the  same  as  that  described  after 
leaving  Santa  Fe,  with  the  addition  of  quite  a number  of  com- 
posite; among  which  was  a species  of  Ynosyris,  artemesia  filifolia, 
aster,  helicladus,  &c. 

News  now  began  to  arrive  which  left  but  little  doubt  that  the 
reports  which  caused  our  movement  down  the  river  were  exagger- 
ated, if  not  wholly  without  foundation.  People  had  passed  down 
the  river,  as  was  reported,  but  in  no  great  numbers.  A messenger 
came  in  from  the  alcalde  of  Tome  with  an  official  note,  stating 
that  Armijo  had  left  with  him  one  hundred  mules,  pressed  into 
service  to  meet  us  at  the  canon,  and  that  Armijo  had  also  notified  him 
that  one  hundred  more  would  be  left  at  “the  Passo  del  Norte.  These 
belonged  to  citizens  of  New  Mexico,  and  had  been  taken  from  them 
without  their  consent.  It  was  his  practice,  in  peace  or  in  war,  to 
seize  the  person  or  property  of  any  who  fell  under  his  displeasure. 

The  town  of  Bernalillo  is  small,  but  one  of  the  best  built  in  the 
territory.  We  were  here  invited  to  the  house  of  a wealthy  man, 
to  take  some  refreshment.  We  were  led  into  an  oblong  room,  fur- 
nished like  that  of  every  Mexican  in  comfortable  circumstances^ 
A banquette  runs  around  the  room,  leaving  only  a space  for  the 
couch.  It  is  covered  with  cushions,  carpets,  and  pillows;  upon 
which'  the  visiter  sits  or  reclines.  The  dirt  floor  is  usually  covered 
a third  or  a half  with  common  looking  carpet.  On  the  uncovered 
part  is  the  table,  freighted  with  grapes,  sponge-cake,  and  the  wine 
of  the  country.  The  walls  are  hung  with  miserable  pictures  of  the 
saints,  crosses  innumerable,  and  Yankee  mirrors  without  number. 
These  last  are  suspended  entirely  out  of  reach;  and  if  one  wishes 
to  shave  or  adjust  his  toilet,  he  must  do  so  without  the  aid  of  a 
mirror,  be  there  ever  so  many  in  the  chamber. 

We  passed  on  to  the  house  of  our  host’s  wealthy  son,  where  we 
were  invited  to  dine.  Here  we  found  another  refreshment  table; 


40 


nr 

and,  after  waiting  some  hours,  dinner  was  announced.  It  was  a 
queer  jumble  of  refinement  and  barbarism;  the  first  predominating 
in  every  thing,  except  in  the  mode  of  serving,  which  was  chiefly 
performed  by  the  master,  his  Mexican  guests,  and  a few  female 
serfs. 

The  plates,  forks,  and  spoons  were  of  solid  New  Mexican  silver, 
clumsily  worked  in  the  country.  The  middle  of  the  table  "was 
strewed  with  the  finest  white  bread,  cut  in  pieces,  and  within  the 
reach  of  every  cover.  At  close  intervals  were  glass  decanters,  of 
Pittsburg  manufacture,  filled  with  wine  made  on  the  plantation. 
The  dishes  were  served  separately.  The  first  was  soup  maigre; 
then  followed  roast  chicken,  stuffed  with  onions;  then  mutton, 
boiled  with  onions;  then  followed  various  other  dishes,  all  dressed 
with  the  everlasting  onion;  and  the  whole  terminated  by  chile,  the 
glory  of  New  Mexico,  and  then  frigole. 

Chile  the  Mexicans  consider  the  chef-d’oeuvre  of  the  cuisine,  and 
seem  really  to  revel  in  it;  but  the  first  mouthful  brought  the  tears 
trickling  down  my  cheeks,  very  much  to  the  amusement  of  the 
spectators  with  their  leather-lined  throats.  It  was  red  pepper, 
stuffed  with  minced  meat. 

From  Bernallilo  the  valley  opens,  but  narrows  again  at  Zandia, 
an  Indian  town  on  a sand-bank  at  the  base  of  a high  mountain  of 
the  same  name,  said  to  contain  the  precious  metals. 

They  were  treading  wheat  here,  which  is  done  by  making  a cir- 
cular corral  on  a level  ground  of  clay;  upon  this  floor  they  scatter 
the  wheat,  turn  in  a dozen  or  more  mules,  and  one  or  two  Indians, 
who,  with  whoops,  yells,  and  blows,  keep  the  affrighted  brutes 
constantly  in  motion.  To  separate  the  wheat  from  the  chaff,  both 
Indians  and  Mexicans  use  a simple  hand-barrow,  with  a bottom  of 
raw  bull’s  hide  perforated  with  holes.  I should  suppose  it  must 
take  an  hour  to  winnow  a bushel. 

After  dining  sumptuously  ‘at  Sandival’s,  we  went  to  our  camp  in 
the  Allemada.  Here  the  valley  is  wide  and  well  cultivated.  The 
people  of  the  surrounding  country  flocked  in  wfith  grapes,  melons, 
and  eggs.  Swarms  of  wild  geese  and  sand  cranes  passed  over 
camp.  ' They  frequent  the  river  and  are  undisturbed,  save  when 
some  American  levels  his  rifle. 

By  observation,  the  latitude  of  this  camp  is  35°  IT  50",  and  the 
longitude  106°  45'  00"  west  of  Greenwich. 

September  6. — We  encamped  last  night  on  very  indifferent  grass. 
Breakfasted  vrith  Hon  Jose  Charvis,  at  Perdilla.  When  sitting, 
our  chins  just  reached  the  table.  There  were  five  or  six  courses, 
ending  with  coffee.  Before  breakfast,  we  were  summoned  to  mass 
in  Hon  Jose’s  private  chapel,  where  the  eccentric  person  we  met  at 
yesterday’s  dinner  officiated.  Priest,  fop,  courtier,  and  poet  were 
curiously  combined  in  one  person.  Proud  of  his  pure  white  hand, 
he  flourished  it  incessantly,  sometimes  running  his  fingers  through 
his  hair,  in  imitation  of  some  pretty  coquette,  and  ever  and  anon 
glancing  in  one  of  the  many  looking-glasses  with  which  the  church 
was  decorated.  After  mass,  to  our  surprise,  he  delivered  an  elo- 


quent  discourse,  eulogising  the  grandeur,  magnanimity,  power,  and 
justice  of  the  United  States. 

Attending  mass  before  breakfast  proved  anything  but  an  appe- 
tizer. The  church  was  crowded  with  women  of  all  conditions,  and 
the  horrid  reboso,  which  the  poor  use  for  shawls,  bonnet,  handker- 
chief, and  spit-box,  sent  out  an  oclor  which  the  incense  from  the 
altar  failed  to  stifle. 

One  fact  struck  me  as  singular  in  all  the  houses  that  we  visited, 
the  ladies  never  made  their  appearance;  and  it  was  always  by  the 
merest  accident  that  we  caught  a glimpse  of  one  of  the  family. 

At  Xsoletta,  I became  tired  of  the  show, -and,  seeing  my  servant 
talking  at  the  door  of  one  of  his  acquaintances,  I took  the  liberty 
of  asking  permission  to  take  a quiet  siesta*  but  this  was  out  of  the 
question.  The  good  woman  overwhelmed  me  with  a thousand 
questions  about  the  United  States,  which  could  only  be  stopped  by 
questioning  her  in  return.  She  denounced  Armijo;  said,  with  a 
true  Castilian  flash  of  the  eye,  UX  do  not' see  how  any  man  wearing 
those  things,”  pointing  to  my  shoulder  straps,  ucould  run  away  as 
he  did.  He  had  a good  army  to  back  him,  and  could  have  driven 
you  all  back.” 

The  valley  suddenly  contracts  below  Perdilla,  between  Xsoletta 
and  Peralta.  On  the  east  side  of  the  river  there  is  deep  sand,  and 
the  country  is  perfectly  barren. 

X observed  to-night,  for  time  and  latitude  at  my  camp,  about 
500  feet  northwest  of  Senora  Charvis’s  private  chapel,  thirteen 
altitudes  of  polaris  give  for  the  latitude  of  this  place,  34°  50'  57"; 
and  twelve  of  corona  borealis,  and  nine  of  alpha  pegasi,  give  the 
chronometric  longitude  7 h.  07m.  85.4. 

September  7. — The  early  part  of  last  evening  was  most  beauti- 
fully bright  and  serene;  the  air  was  of  the  most  delightful  temper- 
ature, varied  occasionally  by  a gentle  breeze  from  the  south,  waft- 
ing along  the  perfume  of  the  vineyards.  X made  some  observations 
for  time  and  latitude;  the  last  unsatisfactorily,  owing  to  the  bright- 
ness of  the  moon  dimming  the  southern  stars.  About  11  o’clock,, 
the  whole  character  of  the  nignt  was  changed  by  an  east  wind  that 
came  rustling  down  from  the  mountains,  driving  the  sand  before  it. 
Nearly  the  whole  distance  travelled  in  the  last  three  days  has  been 
over  drifting  sand,  with  only  occasional  patches  of  Arm  soil. 

After  rising  early  to  attend  to  some  business,  I walked  over  the 
town  of  Peralta,  which  is  interspersed  with  cotton  wood,  growing 
in  nearly  the  regular  order  of  an  apple  orchard.  I then  repaired 
to  head-quarters,  at  the  palace  of  Mr.  Hortera,  a spacious  one 
story  edifice,  five  hundred  feet  front. 

We  marched  and  encamped  near  Tome.  It  was  the  eve  of  the 
fete  of  Tome  in  honor  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  people  from  all 
parts  of  the  country  were  flocking  in  crowds  to  the  town.  The 
primitive  wagons  of  the  country  were  used  by  the  women  as  coaches. 
These  wagons  were  heavy  boxes  mounted  on  wheels  cut  from  large 
cotton  wood;  over  the  top  of  the  box  was  spread  a blanket,  and 
inside  were  huddled,  in  a dense  crowd,  the  women,  children,  pigs, 
lambs,  and  u every  thing  that  is  his.”  The  man  of  the  family 


42 


[7-] 

usually  seated  himself  on  the  tongue  of  the  wagon,  his  time  divi- 
ded between  belaboring  his  beasts  and  scratching  his  head.  In 
one  of  these  a violin  was  being  played,  and  the  women  who  were 
sitting  on  their  feet,  made  the  most  of  the  music  by  brandishing 
their  bare  arms  and  moving  their  heads  to  the  cadence.  At  night 
there  was  a theatrical  representation  in  the  public  square.  The 
piece  dramatized  was  from  the  Old  Testament. 

During  the  day  I had  been  puzzled  by  seeing  at  regular  intervals 
on  the  wall  surrounding  the  capilla,  and  on  the  turrets  of  the  ca- 
pilla  itself,  (which  be  it  remembered  is  of  mud,)  piles  of  dry  wood. 
The  mystery  was  now  to  be  cleared  up.  At  a given  signal  all  were 
lighted,  and  simultaneously  a flight  of  rockets  took  place  from 
every  door  and  window  of  the  chapel,  fire-works  of  all  kinds,  from 
the  blazing  rocket  to  children's,  whirligigs,  were  now  displayed 
in  succession.  The  pyrotechny  was  the  handicraft  of  the  priests. 

I must  say  the  whole  affair  did  honor  to  the  church,  and  display- 
ed considerable  chemical  knowledge.  Most  of  the  spectators  were 
on  mules,  each  with  his  woman  in  front,  and  it  was  considered  a 
great  feat  to  explode  a rocket  under  a mule’s  belly  without  previous 
intimation  to  the  rider. 

September  8. — Long  shall  I remember  the  fete  of  Tome,  a scene 
at  once  so  novel  and  so  striking.  To-day,  my  duties  called  me  off 
early  in  the  morning. 

I had  to  examine  guides  in  reference  to  the  route  to  California, 
and  engage  such  as  I might  think  fit  for  the  trip. 

My  1 ast  interview  of  this  kind  to-day  was  in  a species  of  public 
building,  or  guard-house,  where  a number  of  Mexicans  had  col- 
lected with  arms.  Several  written  tablets  hung  round  the  walls, 
but  they  were  perfectly  illegible.  Our  business  was  cut  short  by 
the  sound  of  passing  music.  A strange  sight  presented  itself.  In 
a sedan  chair,  borne  by  four  men,  was  seated  a wax  figure  nearly 
as  large  as  life,  extravagantly  dressed;  following  immediately  were 
three  or  four  priests,  with  long  tallow  candles,  a full  yard  in  length. 
Some  American  officers  followed,  each  holding  a candle.  Unfortu- 
nately I emerged  just  as  this  group  was  passing;  there  was  no  es- 
cape, and  the  moment  I joined  a grave  Mexican  (apparently  a man 
in  authority,)  thrust  a candle  into  my  hand.  1 thought  of  my  coat, 
my  only  coat,  the  coat  which  was  on  my  back,  and  which  must 
take  me  to  California,  and  back  as'ain  into  the  interior  of  Mexico! 
Suddenly  there  was  a halt  without  any  word  of  command,  and  in 
the  confusion  we  jostled  against  each  other  and  distributed  the 
tallow  in  great  profusion. 

It  was  thought  proper  that  the  officers  should  show  every  respect 
to  the  religious  observances  of  the  country,  consequently  they  did 
not  decline  participation  in  these  ceremonies. 

The  procession  ended  at  the  church.  After  the  services  there 
were  concluded  we  repaired  to^the  house  of  the  padre,  where  we 
found  a collation. 

We  had  proposed  attending  a theatrical  representation  going  on 
in  the  open  air,  but  a heavy  squall  of  wind  and  a few  drops  of 
rain  put  a stop  to  this  amusement,  and  all  retired  to  dress  for  the 


43  [ 7 ] 

fandango,  which  is  the  name  given  to  all  collections  of  people 
where  there  is  music  and  dancing. 

A cotillion  was  attempted  in  honor  of  the  Americans  present,  but 
this  cofd  and  formal  dance  soon  gave  way  to  the  more  joyous 
dances  of  the  country,  the  Coona,  the  Bolero,  and  the  Italiana. 
Every  variety  of  figure  was  introduced,  but  the  waltz  was  the  basis 
of  all,  except  the  Bolero,  which,  as  danced  here,  resembles  our 
negro  jig. 

At  the  dance  we  found  a very  plain,  but  very  intelligent  woman, 
the  sister  of  Armijo,  who  said  he  would  return  as  soon  as  he  settled 
his  affairs  in  Chihuahua. 

September  11. — Returned  to  Santa  Fe. 

September  15. — Sent  Lieutenant  Warner,  with  a party  consisting 
of  Lieutenant  Peck  and  three  men,  to  determine  the  latitude  of  Taos 
and  the  topography  of  the  road. 

From  the  15th  to  25th  September  I was  busily  engaged  in  fitting 
out  for  California. 

Lieutenant  Abert,  who  was  left  dangerously  ill  at  Bent’s  Fort, 
had  not  arrived  on  the  25th,  but  accounts  reached  me  that  he  was 
convalescent,  and  on  his  way  to  Santa  Fe,  where  he  might  shortly 
be  expected.  Lieutenant  Peck  was  also  an  invalid,  and  neither 
being  able  to  accompany  us  to  California,  I left,  by  the  general’s 
direction,  the  subjoined  order  for  them  to  make  a map  of  New 
Mexico,  based  upon  the  astronomical  points  and  measurements  de- 
termined by  myself,  and  to  furnish  from  the  best  statistical  sources, 
an  account  of  the  population  and  resources,  military  and  civil,  of 
the  province. 

Santa  Fe,  September  14,  1846. 

Sir  : I am  charged  by  the  general  commanding  to  inform  you 
that  you  'will  remain  for  the  present  in  the  territory  of  New  Mexico, 
and  should  your  health,  or  that  of  Lieutenant  Peck,  be  sufficiently 
restored  to  return  to  duty,  that  you  will  continue  the  survey  of 
this  territory  commenced  by  jmyself,  and  follow  it  to  completion, 
provided  it  does  not  interfere  with  other  military  duties  which  may 
be  required  of  you  by  the  officer  left  in  command  of  the  territory. 

With  the  limited  number  of  instruments  that  can  be  placed  in 
your  hands,  it  is  not  expected  that  you  will  conduct  the  survey  on 
strict  geodetic  principles,  yet  it  is  believed  that  sufficient  precision 
can  be  attained  to  answer  all  the  requirements  of  the  military  and 
civil  service. 

The  country  from  Taos  to  Fra  Cristobal  contains  nearly  all  the 
ground  that  is  under  cultivation,  and  nearly  all  that  is  worth  culti- 
vating; and  for  this  whole  distance  it  is  open  and  bounded  by  high 
and  conspicuous  peaks,  affording  great  facilities  for  conducting 
your  operations. 

I have  established  the  astronomical  positions  of  six  points  in  this 
territory,  viz:  camp  42,  at  Yegas;  camp  43,  Vernal  springs,  Santa 
Fe;  camp  55,  1J  miles  south  of  the  church  of  San  Felippe;  camp 


44 


[7-] 

49,  at  the  Alameda;  camp  51,  at  Peralta,  at  the  mill,  and  I shall 
establish  two  more,  one  at  Taos,  and  the  other  at  Secoro. 

These  points  are  quite  sufficient,  and  will  be  the  base#of  your 
operations;  and  upon  them  you  will  form  a trigonometric  canevas. 
For  this  purpose  the  rule  requiring  every  angle  of  the  series  to  be 
greater  than  30°,  may  be  wholly  disregarded.  And  after  having 
determined  by  triangulation  the  position  of  any  three  conspicuous 
peaks,  the  position  of  any  other  points,  which  are  in  view  of  the 
three  first  named,  may  be  determined  by  the  problem  of  three  points, 
as  is  practised  in  hydrographic  surveys.  Many  such  points  will 
present  themselves. 

The  canevas  completed,  the  course  of  the  Del  Norte,  that  of  its 
tributaries  to  the  base  of  the  mountains  or  beyond  the  settlements; 
the  width  of  the  valleys;  the  quantity  of  land  under  cultivation; 
the  position  of  the  towns,  churches,  hills,  and  all  other  topogra- 
phical features  of  the  country,  can  be  determined  with  the  Schmal- 
kalde’s  compasses. 

If  your  force  is  sufficient,  the  operation  described  in  this  last 
paragraph  may  be  carried  on  simultaneously  with  the  triangulation. 
You  are  aware  that  I have  no  theodolite  at  my  disposal,  the  trian- 
gulation must,  therefore,  be  made  with  the  sextant. 

The  population,  number  of  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep,  and  the 
quantity  of  grain  and  other  agricultural  products,  the  facilities  and 
best  localities  for  water  power  to  propel  machinery,  and  also  the 
mineral  resources  of  the  country,  it  is  very  desirable  to  know. 
You  will,  therefore,  give  particular  attention  to  acquiring  all  the 
information  on  these  subjects  which  the  present  statistical  know- 
ledge in  the  country  will  afford. 

A requisition  for  five  thousand  dollars  will  be  made  on  the  Bureau 
of  Topographical  Engineers  for  the  survey,  to  be  placed  to  you-r 
credit  with  Mr.  Robert  Campbell  of  St.  Louis,  upon  whom,  I should 
think,  you  might  safely  draw,  without  waiting  to  hear  from  Wash- 
ington. 

I made  a requisition  on  the  bureau,  dated  June  18,  1846,  for  a 
transit  instrument,  and  also  for  an  instrument  to  obtain  the  magne- 
tic dip  and  declination.  Should  these  arrive,  you  will  unpack  them, 
mount  the  instruments  near  the  place  where  I observed  in  Santa 
Fe,  and  commence  a series  of  observations  for  longitude  by  moon 
culminating  stars,  and  for  the  magnetic  dip  and  declination. 

The  series  for  longitude  will  be  continued  for  at  least  three  luna- 
tions, and,  should  an  opportunity  present  itself,  I wish  the  observa- 
tions and  results  to  be  communicated  to  me  in  California. 

I am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

W.  H.  EMORY, 

First  Lieut.  Corps  Top.  Engineers . 

Lieutenant  J.  W.  Abert,  or,  in  his  absence, 

Lieutenant  W.  G.  Peck. 


General  orders  were  issued  designating  the  force  to  march  on 
California.  It  consisted  of  three  hundred  United  States  1st  dra- 
goons, under  Major  Sumner,  who  were  to  be  followed  by  the  bat- 
talion of  Mormons,  five  hundred  in  number,  commanded  by  Cap- 
tain Cook. 

C*1  onel  Doniphan’s  regiment  was  to  remain  in  Neve  Mexico  until 
relieved  by  Colonel  Price’s  regiment,  which  was  daily  expected  to 
reach  there  from  the  United  States,  when  Colonel  Doniphan’s  regi- 
ment was  directed  to  effect  a junction  with  General  Wool  at  Chi- 
huahua. 

Major  Clarke’s  two  batteries  of  artillery  were  divided — -one  com- 
pany, Captain  Fisher’s,  to  be  left  in  New  Mexico;  the  other,  Cap- 
tain Weightman’s,  to  accompany  Colonel  Doniphan.  The  battalion 
of  foot,  under  Captain  Agney,  was  directed  to  remain  in  Santa  Fe„ 

Thus  was  the  army  of  the  west  divided  into  three  columns,  to 
operate  in  regions  remote  from  each  other,  and  never  to  unite  again 
in  one  body. 

September  25. — I received  notice  that  the  general  was  to  march 
at  2,  p.  m.,  for  California.  His  force  consisted  of  three  htmdred 
dragoons,  to  be  followed  by  a battalion  of  Mormons  on  foot  that 
had  not  yet  arrived  in  Santa  Fe. 

My  requisition  for  twelve  pack-saddles  and  eight  mules  not  being  * 
filled,  .1  determined  to  delay  starting  for  an  hour  or  two,  and 
did  not  reach  my  camp,  sixteen  miles  distant,  till  long  after  dark. 

I found  my  tent  pitched,  my  supper  smoking,  and  corn  secured  for 
my  mules;  this  was  gratifying,  and  I congratulated  myself  on  the 
reorganization  of  my  party,  at  least  so  far  as  the  personel  was 
concerned,  for  I had  never  found  my  camp  so  well  attended  to. 

The  day  was  excessively  hot,  the  night  very  cold,  the  thermo- 
meter 32  degrees. 

Memorandum. — My  party  is  now  organized  as  follows: 

Lieutenant  Warner,  topographical  engineers,  &c. 

J.  M.  Stanly,  draughtsman. 

Norman  Bestor,  assistant. 

Men . 

James  Early,  driver  to  instrument  wagon; 

W.  H.  Peterson,  in  charge  of  horizon  box  and  cantina  for  sextants; 

Baptiste  Perrot,  driver  of  transportation  wagon; 

M aurice  Longdeau,  in  charge  of  spare  mules; 

Francois  de  Von  Cceur,  in  charge  of  spare  mules; 

Frank  Menard,  assistant  teamster; 

James  Riley,  assistant  to  Bestor; 

Dabney  Eustis,  assistant  to  Stanly, 
and  the  private  servants  of  Lieutenant  Warner  and  myself. 

Our  road  is  over  the  ground  heretofore  travelled  and  chronicled  as 
far  as  Tome. 

As  an  evidence  of  the  ignorance  of  the  people  here  respecting 


46 


m 

the  topograph}"  of  the  country,  and  also  the  ignorance  of  foreign- 
ers who  have  lived  fifteen  or  twenty  years  in  Santa  Fe,  no  one  could 
tell  me  where  the  Rio  Santa  Fe  debouched  into  the  Rio  Grande. 

I may  here  remark,  that  every  night  I furnished  the  distances 
travelled  over  to  General  Kearny  at  headquarters,  and  very  often 
(whenever  required)  the  latitude  of  the  camp.  In  many  cases  these 
and  the  distances  have  been  published;  I shall,  therefore,  not  repeat 
them.  The  latitudes  in  some  cases  have  been  incorrectly  reported, 
and  in  others  recomputed,  and  are  therefore  now  given  as  final 
results. 

September  26,  27,  23,  29,  and  30. — We  marched  over  the  same 
ground  already  travelled  over  and  described,  between  the  2d  and 
7th  of  September. 

Below  Zandia  wTe  were  attracted  by  a great  noise.  It  proceeded 
from  a neighboring  rancheria,  where  we  saw  eight  or  ten  naked  fel- 
lows hammering  away  in  a trough  full  of  cornstalks,  as  I had  never 
seen  Mexicans  exert'  themselves  before.  The  perspiration  from 
their  bodies  was  rolling  off  into  the  trough  in  profusion,  and  ming- 
ling wfith  the  crushed  cane.  This  was  then  taken  out,  boiled,  and 
transferred  to  a press,  .as  primitive  in  construction  as  any  thing 
from  the  hands  of  Father  Abraham. 

The  hopper  was  the  trunk  of  a scooped  cotton  wood  tree,  into 
this  was  inserted  a billet  of  wood,  upon  which  the  lever  . rested 
about  midway.  Men,  women,  and  children  were  mounted  on  each 
end;  all  see-sawing  in  the  highest  glee.  I suggested,  as  an  im- 
provement, that  one  end  of  the  lever  be  confined,  and  the  whole  of 
the  living  weight  be  transferred  to  the  other  end.  uNo!  No!”  said 
the  head  man,  u if  I do  that,  the  fun  of  see-sawing  will  be  over, 
and  I can’t  get  any  body  to  work.”  The  man  was  a disciple  of 
Charles  Fourier,  and  desired  u to  make  labor  attractive.” 

The  morning  of  the  29th  opened  with  a grand  trade  in  mules  and 
horses.  A few  days’  experience  was  quite  enough  to  warn  us  that 
our  outfit  would  not  answer,  and  the  general  directed  that  all  the 
poor  mules  and  horses  should  be  exchanged  for  fat  ones.  The 
scene  reminded  one  more  of  a horse  market  than  a regular  camp. 
The  more  liberal  were  our  offers  for  the  animals,  the  more  exorbi- 
tant became  the  demands  of  the  Mexicans. 

At  Albuquerque  I was  directed  to  call  and  see  Madame  Ar. 
mijo,  and  ask  her  for  the  map  of  New  Mexico,  belonging  to  her 
husband,  which  she  had  in  her  possession.  I found  her  ladyship 
sitting  on  an  ottoman  smoking,  alter  the  fashion  of  her  country- 
women, within  reach  of  a small  silver  vase  filled  x\ ith  coal.  She 
said  she  had  searched  for  the  map  without  success;  if  not  in  Santa 
Fe,  her  husband  must  have  taken  it  with  him  to  Chihuahua. 

We  crossed  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte  at  Albuquerque,  its  width 
was  about  twenty-five  yards,  and  its  deepest  part  just  up  to  the  hubs 
of  the  wheels.  It  is  low  at  present,  but  at  no  time,  we  learned,  is 
its  rise  excessive— -scarcely  exceeding  one  or  two  feet. 

We  encamped  a little  more  than  half  way  between  Albuquerque 
and  Pardillas,  on  a sandy  plain,  destitute  of  wood,  and  with  little 
grass. 


A Aew  Mexican  Indian.  Mo  man 


iitli.  'by  E ."Web er  & Co  IBalto 


47 


m 

We  saw  myriads  of  sa.nd  crane,  geese,  and  brant. 

September  30. — Feeling  no  desire  to  go  over  the  same  ground 
twice,  1 struck  off  on  the  table  lands  to  the  west,  and  found  them 
a succession  of  rolling  sand  hills,  with  obione  canescens,  franseria* 
acanthocarpa,  yerba  del  s^ipa  of  the  Mexicans,  and  occasionally, 
at  very  long  intervals,  with  scrub  cedar,  about  as  high  as  the  boot- 
top. 

I saw  here  the  hiding  places  of  the  Navajoes,  who,  when  few  in 
numbers,  wait  for  the  night  to  descend  upon  the  valley  and  carry 
off  the  fruit,  sheep,  women,  and  children  of  the  Mexicans.  When 
in  numbers,  they  come  in  day-time  and  levy  their  dues.  Their  re- 
treats and  caverns  are  at  a distance  to  the  -west,  in  high  and  inac-  - 
cessible  m ountains,  where  troops  of  the  United  States  will  find 
great  difficulty  in  overtaking  and  subduing  them,  but  where  the 
Mexicans  have  never  thought  of  penetrating.  The  Navajoes  may 
be  termed  the  lords  of  New  Mexico.  Few  in  number,  disdaining 
the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  and  even  the  rearing  of  cattle,  they 
draw  all  their  supplies  from  the  valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

As  we  marched  down  the  river  to  meet  Ugarte  and  Armijo,  the 
Navajoes  attacked  the  settlements  three" miles  in  our  rear,  killed 
one  man,  crippled  another,  and  carried  off  a large  supply  of  sheep 
and  cattle.  To-day  we  have  a report,  which  appears  well  authen- 
ticated, that  the  Mexicans  taking  courage  at  the  expectations  of 
protection  from  the  United  States,  had  the  temerity  to  resist  a levy, 
and  the  consequence  was,  the  loss  of  six  men  killed  and  two 
wounded. 

They  are  prudent  in  their  depredations,  never  taking  so  much 
from  one  man  as  to  ruin  him.  Armijo  never  permitted  the  inhabi- 
tants to  war  upon  these  thieves.  The  power  he  had  of  letting  these 
people  loose  on  the  New  Mexicans  was  the  great  secret  of  his  ar- 
bitrary sway  over  a people  wffio  hated  and  despised  him.  Any 
offender  against  Armijo  was  pretty  sure  to  have  a visit  from  the 
Navajoes. 

I stopped  at  the  little  town  of  Isoletta,  to  visit  my  friend,  the 
alcalde,  who  has  the  reputation,  Indian  though  he  be,  of  being  the 
most  honest  man  and  best  maker  of  brandy  in  the  territory.  Mr. 
Stanly  accompanied  me,  for  the  purpose  of  sketching  one  of  the 
women  as  a specimen  of  the  race.  I told  the  alcalde  our  object, 
and  soon  a very  beautiful  woman  made  her  appearance,  perfectly 
conscious  of  the  purpose  for  which  her  presence  was  desired. 
Her  first  position  was  exquisitely  graceful,  but  the  light  did  not 
suit,  and  when  Stanly  changed  her  position,  the  charm  of  her  atti- 
tude was  gone. 

We  came  down  from  the  table  lands  tnrough  a ravine,  where 
the  lava,  in  a seam  of  about  six  feet,  overlaid  soft  sand-stone.  At 
the  point  of  junction,  the  sand  was  but  slightly  colored.  The  lava 
was  cellular,  and  the  holes  so  large  that  the  hawks  were  building 
nests  in  them. 

At  this  ravine  the  Navajoes  descended  when  they  made  their 
last  attack;  at  the  same  moment  the  volunteers  were  ascending  the 
other  slope  of  the  hill,  on  their  way  to  garrison  Cibolletta, 


The  camp  of  this  date  (September  30)  is  near  the  camp  of  Sep- 
tember 6;  and  my  observation's  this  evening  verified,  in  a very 
satisfactory  manner,  the  travelling  rate  assumed  for  the  chronom- 
eter 783.  The  longitude  of  camp  of  September  7,  given  by  chro- 
nometer, is  7 h.  07 m.  005.5;  that  of  this  present  camp,  which  is  one- 
mile  west  of  it,  is  7 h.  8m.  005.  Here,  in*addition  to  my  usual  obser- 
vations for  time  and  latitude,  I took  a set  of  lunar  distances,  with 
east  and  west  stars. — (See  Appendix.) 

Above  this  camp,  there  is  on  the  river  a considerable  grovTth  of 
cotton-wmod;  among  wThich  a^re  found  some  u signs’*  of  beaver.  The 
plains  and  river  bottoms  were  covered  with  much  the  same  growth 
as  that  heretofore  noted;  to  wThich  may  be  added  an  erythera,  a 
handsome  little  gentian-like  plant,  with  deep  rose-colored  flowers, 
and  a solanum,  a kind  of  wild  potato,  with  narrow  leaves,  wdiich 
Dr.  Torrey  says  is  different  from  any  in  the  United  States. 

October  1. — To-day,  for  the  first  time  for  six  days,  I was  able 
to  rise  from  my  bed  without  assistance.  The  air  was  elastic,  and  j 
fragrant  with  the  perfumes  of  the  wild  sage  from  the  adjacent  j 
hills.  Every  thing  w-as,  in  truth,  couleur  de  rose;  for  the  sun 
beamed  out  bright  and  .red,  infusing  the  same  tint  over  the  land- 
scape, till  near  meridian.  I crossed  to  Tome,  in  search  of  some 
non-complying  guides.  We  recrossed  at  Tome,  and  measured  the 
section  of  the  river.  Accordingly,  we  found-  the  Rio  Grande  del 
Norte,  many  hundred  miles  from  its  source, 


30  yards  wide. 


This  section  is  about  the  same  as  at  San  Felippe  and  Santo  Do- 
mingo. If  to  it  we  add  the  section  of  a stream  of  water  carried  j 
off  by  tw7o  large  zequias,  each  nine  feet  by  twTo,  wTe  shall  have  ) 
an  estimate  of  the  volume  of  water  discharged  by  this  famous 
river,  for  150  miles,  through  the  most  populous  and  fertile  part  of 
its  valley. 

Below7  Tome,  for  a few7  miles,  the  valley  widens,  the  soil  im- 
proves, and  the  cultivation  is  superior  to  any  other  part,  particu- 
larly that  of  the  rancherias  around  the  pleasant  little  village  of 
Belen. 

October  2. — -This  morning  we  passed  the  pretty  church  in  the 
village  of  Sabinal,  after  which  the  settlements  became  very  few7 
and  far  between.  We  encamped  opposite  La  Lloya,  at  the  bend; 
of  the  river  Del  Norte,  where  the  low  sandhills  on  either  side  seem 
to  unite  and  shut  up  the  valley. 

We  received  a message  from  the  major  domo  of  the  neighboring 
rancheria,  cautioning  us  to  we  watchful  of  our  animals,  that  forty 
of  the  Navajoes  had  passed  the  river  last  night.  The  incursions  of  1 
these  Indians  have  prevented  the  settlement  and  cultivation  of  this 
part  of  the  country. 


- 


• ( 


r 


) 


\ 


\ 


V 


Valencia.  New  Mexico 

Xiti  "by  .E  .Weber  8b  Co. Balto . 


49 


The  sand  bank,  at  the  foot  of  which  we  are  encamped,  is  filled 
with  serpentine,  harder  than  that  which  is  dug  in  such  quantities 
from  the  site  of  Fort  Marcy,  near  Santa  Fe. 

Now  and  then  wre  came  to  spots  from  which  the  waters  were  pre- 
vented from  escaping  by  the  sand,  and  had  evaporate*d,  leaving  sa- 
line incrustations;  about  these  we  found  growing  abundantly 
atriplex  and  salicornia. 

We  found  to-day  lycium  in  great  abundance,  senecis  longilobus, 
martynia  proboscidea,  (cuckold’s  horns ,)  and  a small  shrub  with 
flower  like  convolvulus. 

October  3. — The  wagons  from  the  rear  not  being  up,  we  laid  by 
all  day,  in  hourly  expectation  of  their  arrival  and  an  order  to  march. 
An  express  from  Colonel  Price  came  up,  informing  us  of  his  arrival 
in  Santa  Fe. 

About  12  o’clock  in  the  day,  a Mexican  came  into  camp,  with  his 
horse  foaming,  to  say  that  the  Navajoes  had  made  an  attack  on  the 
town  of  Pulvidera.  One  company  of  dragoons  was  immediately 
despatched  to  the  place,  about  twelve  miles  distant. 

This  camp  was  one  of  the  prettiest  of  the  whole  march,  on  the 
curve  of  the  river,  fringed  with  large  cottonwoods  growing  at  in- 
tervals. The  air  was  mild  and  balsamic,  the  moon  shone  brightly, 
and  all  was  as  still  as  death,  except  when  a flock  of  geese  or  sand- 
cranes  were  disturbed  in  their  repose.  Several  large  cat  fi^h  and 
soft-shell  turtle  were  caught,  and  we  saw  blue-winged  ducks, 
plovers,  doves,  and  a few  meadow  larks. 

No  fact  proves  the  indolence  and  incapacity  of  the'Mexican  for 
sport  or  for  war  more  glaringly,  than  that  these  immense  flights  of 
sand-cranes  and  geese  are  found  quietly  feeding  within  gunshot  dis- 
tance of  their  houses  and  largest  towns.  Going  into  Albuquerque, 
I started  a hungry-looking  wolf  in  a water  melon  patch,  close  un- 
der the  walls  of  the  town. 

October  4. — The  wagons  mounted  the  sand  hills  with  great  diffi- 
culty. The  river  inpinges  so  close  on  the  hills  as  to  make  it  ne- 
cessary, on  the  western  side,  to  mount  the  table  lands*.  These  plains, 
reaching  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  are  of  the  same  character  as 
heretofore  mentioned,  of  rolling  sand  hills,  covered  with  obione,  cane- 
scens,  prosopis  glandulosa,  (romeria,)  riddellia  tagetina,  paga-paga 
— -an  abundant  shrubby  plant,  belonging  to  the  family  of  the  ama- 
ranths, but  a genus  not  yet  described — a new  dieteria,  a new  fallu- 
gia,  bailey, a multiradiata,  abronia  mellifera,  and  a few  patches  of 
grama.  This  last  is  the  only  nutriment  the  plains  afford  for  horses 
and  cattle;  but  mules  and  asses,  when  hard  pressed,  will  eat  the 
trato  and  the  romeria.  The  chamisa  grows  to  a considerable  height, 
and  the  stalk  is  sometimes  two  or  three  inches  in  diameter;  a fire 
can  be  made  of  it  sufficient  to  boil  a kettle  or  roast  an  egg.  To- 
day I eat,  for  the  first  time,  the  fruit  of  the  prickly  pear,  the  uyerba 
de  la  vivera,”  of  the  Mexicans;  as  I was  thirsty,  it  tasted  truly  de- 
licious, having  the  flavor  of  a lemon  with  crushed  sugar. 

• Eelow  La  Joya  two  sand  hill  spurs,  overlaid  with  fragments  of 
lava  and  trap,  project  from  the  east  and  west,  closing  the  valley, 
just  leaving  sufficient  space  for  the  river  to  pass  between.  The 
4 


m 


50 


river  winds  below  in  a beautiful  semicircle,  bending  to  the  west. 
On  either  side  is  excellent  grass,  apparently  untouched,  and  shaded 
by  large  cottonwoods.  To  the  west,  the  hills  of  Pulvidera  form  an 
amphitheatre.  The  whole  picture,  the  loveliest  I have  seen  in  Ne^v 
Mexico,  loses*  nothing  by  being  projected,  from  where  we  stood, 
against  the  red  walls  of  the  Sierra  Grande,  which  extend  from 
Zandia  southward,  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Puerco,  of  the  east, 
from  those  of  the  Rio  Grande. 

I longed  to  cross  these  mountains  and  explore  the  haunts  of 
the  Apaches,  and  the  hiding  place  of  the  Camanches,  and  look 
up  a nearer  route  home  by  the  way  of  the  Red  river,  which 
the  hunters  and  voyageurs  all  believe  to  exist.  But  onward  for 
California  was  the  word,  and  he  who  deviated  from  the  trail  of  the 
army  must  expect  a long  journey  for  his  jaded  beast  and  several 
days’  separation  from  his  baggage.  We  were  not  on  an  exploring 
expedition;  war  was  the  object;  yet  we  had  now  marched  one 
thousand  miles  without  fleshing  a sabre. 

Arrived  at  the  town  of  Pulvidera,  which  we  found,  as  its  name 
implies,  covered  with  dust,  we  received  full  accounts  of  the  attack 
made  on  the  town  by  the  Apaches  the  day  before.  The  dragoons 
arrived  too  late  to  render  assistance. 

About  one  hundred  Indians,  well  mounted,  charged  upon  the 
town  and  drove  off  all  the  horses  and  cattle  of  the  place.  The 
terrified  inhabitants  fled  to  their  mud  houses,  which  they  barricaded. 
The  people  of  Lamitas,  a town  two  miles  below,  came  to  the  res- 
cue, and  seized  upon  the  pass  between  the  Sierra  Pulvidera  and  the 
Sierra  Secoro.  The  Indians  seeing  their  retreat  wfith  the  cattle  and 
goats  cut  off,  fell  to  work  like  savages  as  they  were,  killing  as 
many  of  these  as  they  could,  and  scampered  off  over  the  mountains 
and  cliffs  with  the  horses  and  mules,  which  they  could  more  easily 
secure. 

This  same  band  entered  the  settlements  some  miles  above  when 
we  were  marching  on  Santa  Fe,  and  when  Armijo  had  called  all 
the  men  of  the  country  to  its  defence.  In  this  foray,  besides  horses, 
they  carried  off  fifteen  or  sixteen  of  the  prettiest  women. 

Women,  when  captured,  are  taken  as  wives  by  those  who  cap- 
ture them,  but  they  are  treated  by  the  Indian  wives  of  the  capturers 
as  slaves,  and  made  to  carry  wood  and  water;  if  they  chance  to  be 
pretty,  or  receive  too  much  attention  from  their  lords  and  masters, 
they  are,  in  the  absence  of  the  latter,  unmercifully  beaten  and 
otherwise  maltreated.  The  most  unfortunate  thing  which*  can  befal 
a captive  woman  is  to  be  claimed  by  two  persons.  In  this  case, 
she. is  either  shot  or  delivered  up  for  indiscriminate  violence. 

These  banditti  will  not  long  revel  in  scenes  of  plunder  and  vio- 
lence. Yesterday  Colonel  Doniphan’s  regiment  was  directed  to 
march  into  their  country  and  destroy  it.  One  of  their  principal 
settlements,  and  farming  establishments,  is -said  to  be  nearly  due 
west  from  here,  about  two  days’  march;  the  road  leading  through^ 
the  formidable  pass  above  noted. 

Yesterday  and  to-day  we  came  across  some  unoccupied  strips  of 
ground.  Their  number  yesterday  was  greater  than  to-day;  for, 
since  we  passed  Pulvidera,  the  sand  hills  encroach  on  the  river  and 


51 


m 

leave  the  valley  scarcely  a mile  wide.  The  cottonwood,  however, 
is  getting  more  plentiful,  and  we  have  not  been  obliged  to  use  the 
abors  de  vache??  in  cooking  for  some  days. 

To-night  I measured  two  sets,  or  18  lunar  distances,  east  and  west 
d , 12  altitudes  of  polaris,  10  of  andromedse,  and  8 of  alpha  lyrse. 

The  resulting  latitude  34°  07;  39". 

Longitude  7 h.  07 m.  54 s. 

October  5. — Camp  near  Secoro. — Last  night  a Mexican  came  into 
camp,  and  said  we  should  now  leave  the  river  and  strike  for  the 
Gila,  nearly  due  west.  He  was  one  of  the  men  engaged  by  me  as 
guide  while  on  the  first  trip  to  Tome.  We  accordingly  moved  only 
six  miles  to-day,  and  encamped  a little  north  of  Secoro,  preparato- 
ry to  taking  the  hills  to-morrow.  The  prospect  is  forbidding;  from 
the  Sierra  Lescadron,  opposite  the  amphitheatre,  as  far  south  as  the 
eye  can  reach  on  the  western  side  of  the  river,  is  a chain  of  precip- 
itous basaltic  mountains,  traversed  by  dykes  of  trap.  Through 
these  we  are  to  pass. 

I rode  to  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Secoro,  overhanging  the  town  of 
that  name,  and  about  three  miles  distant  from  the  river.  It  is  a 
confused  mass  of  volcanic  rocks,  traversed  by  walls  of  a reddish 
colored  basalt  and  seams  of  porphyritic  lava  and  metamorphic  sand 
stone.  In  one  or  two  places,  where  the  water  had  washed  away  the 
soil  near  the  base,  I found  specimens  of  galena  and  copper  ore  very 
pure;  but  of  the  extent  of  these  beds  I can  form  no  opinion,  nor 
can  I say  positively  they  were  not  erratic.  The  ore  in  this  moun- 
tain is  said  at  one  time  to  have  been  worked  for  gold,  but  the  diffi- 
culty of  getting  quicksilver  induced  the  operator  to  move  to  a mine 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  near  Manzanas,  where,  it  is  said, 
quicksilver  is  to  be  found;  but  the  specimens  from  that  place,  of 
what  the  inhabitants  exhibited  as  rock  containing  quicksilver,  on 
analysis,  was  found  to  contain  none.  Should  the  command  halt  to- 
morrow to  prepare  for  the  mountains,  I shall  be  enabled  to  give  the 
place  a more  thorough  examination. 

To  the  east,  close  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  still  runs  the  Sierra 
Grande,  which  commences  at  Zandia  with  such  towering  heights, 
but  here  tapers  down  to  moderate  sized  hills.  The  formation  is 
apparently  of  different  colored  sand  stone,  and  wherever  the  strati- 
fication shows  itself,  dipping  about  25  degrees  to  the  south  and  east; 
but  in  some  places  it  is  horizontal,  and  in  others  showing  great  dis- 
turbance. With  the  glass  may  be  seen  walls  of  light-colored  stone, 
basalt  or  trap,  running  off  for  miles  in  a straight  line  nearly  north 
and  south.  The  town  of  Secoro,  containing  about  one  hundred  in- 
habitants, is  prettily  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  river  which  is 
here  almost  circular,  and  about  three  or  five  miles  in  diameter. 
The  church,  as  usual,  forms  the  salient  point,  which  meets  the  eye 
at  a great  distance. 

The  growth  on  the  sand  plains  to-day  was  chiefly  iodeodonda^ 

* Since  writing  the  above,  the  following  extract  of  a note  from  Dr.  Torrey  was  received 
in  reference  to  this  plant,  which  is  so  remarkable,  and  extends  over  so  great  a surface. 

“ The  iodeodonda  I find  deseribedin  a late  work  by  Moricand,  entitled  ‘ Plantes  nouvelles 
ou  rares  dJ Amerique.'1  It  is  described  by  him  as  a new  genus,  under  the  name  larrea.  It  is 
well  figured  in  his  48th  plate  as  Larrea  Mexicana.  In  its  affinities  it  is  allied  to  guiacum .” 


52 


m 

and  a little'  stunted  acacia.  The  iodeodonda  is  a new  plant,  very 
offensive  to  the  smell,  and,  when  crushed,  resembling  kreosote.  Its 
usual  growth  is  the  height  of  a man  on  horseback,  and  is  the  only 
bush  which  mules  will  not  eat  when  excessively  hungry;  besides 
this  were  varieties  of  ephedra,  erytheroea,  helianthus  petiolaris,  and 
two  well  known  and  widely  diffused  grasses,  the  reed  grass,  and  a 
short  salty  grass,  uniola  distichophylla. 

October  6. — It  was  determined  to  follow  the  river  still  farther 
down  before  turning  west.  Great  difficulty  was  experienced  in 
getting  teams  to  assist  us.  The  Mexicans  we  had  engaged,  as  if  by 
universal  agreement,  refused  to  go  farther,  alleging  fear  of  the 
Apaches;  but  the  truth  was  they  expected  to  extort  money.  In 
Armijo’s  day,  when  a thing  was  wanted  for  government,  it  was  taken. 
Our  treatment  turned  their  heads,  and,  like  liberated  slaves,  there 
-was.no  limit  to  their  expectations  and  exactions.  We  used  every 
means  to  bring  these  people  to  reason,  but  finding  them  intractable, 
and  that  the  progress  of  the  army  was  arrested,  the  quartermaster. 
Major  Swords,  seized  what  wagons  and  animals  were  needed,  and 
paid  a liberal  price  for  them.  To  our  surprise  they  were  perfectly 
enchanted  at  the  whole  business;  first  at  being  paid  at  all,  but  prin- 
cipally at  being  relieved  from  the  responsibility  of  deciding  for 
themselves  what  they  would  take  for  the  chattels.  A likely  boy 
who  had  b'een  engaged  to  go  to  California  as  arriero,  was  to-day 
claimed  by  his  creditor  or  master.  He  owed  the  man  sixty  dollars,, 
and  was  by  the  law  of  the  country  paying  this  debt  by  serving  at 
two  dollars  per  month;  out  of  this  he  was  to  feed  and  clothe  him- 
self, his  master  being  sutler.  It  was  plain  he  could  not  pay  his 
debt  in  his  lifetime.  When  such  debtors  get  old  and  unfit  for  labor, 
it  is  the  custom  to  manumit  them  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony. 
This  makes  the  beggars  of  the  country.  The  poor  debtors  thus 
enthralled  for  life  for  a debt  of  sixty  dollars  are  called  peons,  and 
constitute,  as  a class,  the  cheapest  laborers  in  the  world.  The  price, 
of  the  labor  for  life  of  a man  was,  in  the  case  we  have  stated,  sixty 
dollars,  without  any  expense  of  rearing  and  maintenance  in  infancy 
or  old  age,  the  wages  covering  only  a sum  barely  sufficient  for  the 
most  scanty  supply  of  food  and  clothing. 

I saw  some  objects  perched  on  the  hills  to  the  west,  which  were 
at  first  mistaken  for  large  cedars,  but  dwindled  by  distance  to  a 
shrub.  Chaboneau  (one  of  our  guides)  exclaimed  u Indians ! There 
are  the  Apaches.”  His  more  practised  eye  detected  human  figures 
in  my  shrubbery.  They  came  in  and  held  a council,  swore  eternal 
friendship,  as  usual,  no  doubt  with  the  mental  reservation  to  rob 
the  first  American  or  Mexican  they  should  meet  unprotected. 

The  women  of  this  tribe  rode  a la  Duchesse  de  Berri,  and  one 
of  them  had  an  infant,  about  two  months  old,  swung  in  a wicker 
basket  at  her  back.  Their  features  were  flat,  and  much  more  negro- 
like than  those  of  our  frontier  Indians;  a few  Delawares  in  camp 
presented  a strong  contrast,  in  personal  appearance  and  intelligence, 
with  the  smirking,  deceitful  looking  Apache.  Some  of  them  had 
fire  arms,  but  the  greater  part  were  armed  with  lance  and  bow. 
They  were  generally  small  legged,  big  bellied,  and  broad  should- 
ered. 


53 


m 

Came  into  camp  late,  and  found  Carson  with  an  express  from 
California,  bearing  intelligence  that  that  country  had  surrendered 
without  a blow,  and  that  the  American  flag  floated  in  every  port. 

October  7. — Camp  68. — Two  Mexicans  deserted  from  my  party 
last  night,  frightened  by  the  accounts  of  the  hardships  of  the  trip 
brought  by  Carson  and  his  party.  Yesterday’s  news  caused  some 
changes  in  our  camp;  one  hundred  dragoons,  officered  by  Captain 
Moore  and  Lieutenants  Hammond  and  Davidson,  with  General 
Kearny’s  personal  staff,  Major  Swords,  Captain  Johnson,  Captain 
Turner,  adjutant  general  to  the  army  of  the  west,  Messrs.  Carson 
and  Robideaux,  my  own  party,  organized  as  before  mentioned,  and 
a few  hunters  of  tried  experience,  formed  the  party  for  California. 
Major  Sumner,  with  the  dragoons,  was  ordered  to  retrace  his  steps. 
Many  friends  here  parted  that  were  never  to  meet  again,  some  fell 
in  California,  some  in  New  Mexico,  and  some  at  Cerro  Gordo. 

Arrived  in  camp  late,  after  a most  fatiguing  day,  watching  and  di- 
recting the  road  for  my  overloaded  and  badly  horsed  wagon.  I 
sat  up  until  very  late,  making  astronomical  observations. 

About  two  miles  below  the  camp  of  last  night,  we  passed  the  last 
settlement,  and  in  about  four  miles  left  the  beaten  road,  which 
crosses  the  east  side  of  the  river,  and  thenceforth  a new  road  was  to 
be  explored.  The  land  passed  over  to-day,  although  unsettled,  is 
incomparably  the  best  in  New  Mexico;  the  valley  is  broader,  the 
soil  firmer,  and  the  growth  of  timber,  along  the  river,  larger  and 
more  dense. 

The  ruins  of  one  or  two  deserted  modern  towns,  probably  Val- 
verde,  and  remains  of%ditching,  for  irrigation,  were  passed  to-day. 
The  frequent  incursions  of  the  Indians  are  said  to  cause  the  deser- 
tion of  this  part  of  the  valley. 

As  we  approached  our  camp,  the  lofty  range  of  mountains  sweep- 
ing to  the  northwest,  around  the  head  of  the  Gila,  became  un- 
masked, at  the  same  moment  that  the  Puerco  range  showed  them- 
selves on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river  Del  Norte,  stretching  boldly 
and  far  away  to  the  south.  This  last  ridge  of  mountains  is  to  the 
east,  and  altogether  distinct  from  that  commencing  at  Zandia,  and 
tapering  off  to  the  south  close  to  the  river. 

I have  heretofore  revelled  in  the  perfect  stillness  and  quietude  of 
the  air  and  scenery  of  New  Mexico;  yesterday  and  to-day  have 
been  exceptions,  for  the  wind  has  been  very  high  from  the  south, 
and  the  dust  overwhelming. 

Computed  to-day  the  height  of  the  Secoro  mountain  to  be  2,700 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain.  Several  officers  guessed  at  the 
height  of  the  mountain,  and  the  mean  of  all  the  guesses  was  1,200 
feet,  and  the  distance  of  the  peak  only  two  and  a half  miles,  wTbile  it 
was,  in  fact,  upwards  of  four  miles.  He  who  attempts  to  reckon 
the  height  and  distance  of  hills  in  this  pure,  dry  atmosphere,  after 
coming  from  ours,  will  always  fall  as  much  short  of  the  mark.* 

One  or  two  large  white  cedars  were  seen  to-day,  and,  in  addition 

* Attention  is  asked  to  my  meteorological  record  in  the  Appendix.  A wonderful  differ- 
ence between  the  thermometer  and  wet  bulb  will  there  be  seen,  showing  the  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere. 


54 


[7] 

to  the  usual  plants,  was  that  rare  one  cevallia  sinuata,  gauva  parvi- 
flora,  oenothera  sinuata,  and  a species  of  wild  liquorice,  but  with  a 
root  not  sweet,  like  the  European  kind. 

The  latitude  of  this  camp  by  10  altitudes  of  polaris,  33°  41'  19". 

Longitude  of  this  camp,  18  observations,  east  and  west  stars, 
7 h.  08m.  57 5. 

October  8. — Camp  69. — The  valley  of  the  Del  Norte,  as  we  advance, 
loses  what  little  capacity  for  agriculture  it  possessed.  The  river 
commences  to  gather  its  feeble  force  into  the  smallest  compass  to 
work  its  way  around  the  western  base  of  Fra  Cristobal  mountain. 
The  Chihuahua  road  runs  on  the  eastern  side,  and  that  part  of  it 
is  the  dreaded  jornado  of  the  traders,  where  they  must  go  most 
seasons  of  the  year  ninety  miles  without  water. 

Our  road  over  hill  and  dale  led  us  through  a great  variety  of 
vegetation,  all  totally  different  from  that  of  the  United  States.  To- 
day’s observations  of  the  plants  may  be  taken  as  a fair  specimen  of 
the  southern  part  of  New  Mexico.  First,  there  were  cacti  in  end- 
less variety  and  of  gigantic  size,  our  new  and  disagreable  friend, 
the  larrea  Mexicana,  Fremontia  vermicularis,  obione  canescens, 
tessaria  borealis,  diotis  lanata,  franseria  acanthocarpa,  several  va- 
rieties of  mezquite,  and  among  the  plants  peculiar  to  the  ground 
passed  over,  were  several  compositse,  a species  of  malva  convolvu- 
lus, an  unknown  shrub  found  in  the  beds  of  all  deserted  rivers; 
larger  grama,  as  food  for  horses,  nearly  equal  to  oats,  and  dalea 
formosa,  a much  branced  shrub,  three  feet  high,  with  beatiful  purple 
flowers.  The  infinite  variety  of  cacti  could  not  be  brought  home  for 
analysis,  and  this  department  of  the  Flora  must  be  left  to  the  en- 
terprise of  some  traveller,  with  greater  means  of  transportation 
than  we  possessed.  A great  many  were  sketched,  but  not  with 
sufficient  precision  to  classify  them. 

The  table  lands,  reaching  to  the  base  of  the  mountains  to  the 
west,  are  of  sand  and  large,  round  pebbles,  terminating  in  steep 
hills  from  a quarter  to  a half  mile  from  the  river,  capped  with 
seams  of  basalt.  Some  curious  specimens  of  soft  sand  stone  were 
seen  to  day,  of  all  shapes  and  forms,  from  a batch  of  rolls  to  a 
boned  turkey. 

October  9. — The  country  becomes  broken,  and  the  valley  nar- 
rows into  a canon  which  sweeps  at  the  base  of  Fra  Cristobal  moun- 
tain, making  it  necessary  to  rise  to  the  table  lands  on  the  west  side, 
which  we  found  traversed  by  deep  arroyos,  crowned  on  theit  sum- 
mits by  basalt,  underlayed  by  sand  stone. 

I shot  two  or  thi  ee  quails,  ( ortip  squamosal')  differing  from  ours 
in  their  plumage,  but  entirely  similar  to  them  in  their  habits.  We 
also  killed  a hawk  resembling,  in  all  respects.,  our  sparrow-hawk, 
except  in  the  plumage,  which,  like  the  quail,  was  that  of  the  land- 
scape, lead  colored. 

Game  in  New  Mexico  is  almost  extinct,  if  it  ever  existed  to  any 
extent.  To-day  we  saw  a few  black  tailed  rabbits,  and  last  night 
Stanly  killed  a common  Virginia  deer. 

Three  distinct  ranges  of  mountains,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
are  in  view  to-day,  running  apparently  northwest,  and  nearly  par- 
allel to  each  other.  The  lesser  range  commences  at  Secoro;  the 


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55 


m 

next  at  Fra  Cristobal  mountain,  and  the  last  at  a point  farther  west, 
yet  to  be  determined.  The  ravines  between  are  broad,  and  show 
the  beds  of  dry  streams,  which  would  probably  be  found  watered 
when  near  their  sources.  A butte  was  seen  in  the  distance,  close 
to  the  river,  and  surrounded  by  trees,  which  was  at  first  taken  for 
an  adobe  house,  but  the  near  approach  showed  it  a conglomerate 
cemented  by  lime,  which  had  keen  left  standing  when  the  surround- 
ing earths  were  washed  away.  At  its  base  I found  some  rare  spe- 
cimens of  olivine  set  in  lava.  The  road  was  unbroken,  obstructed 
by  bushes,  and  so  bad  that  the  wagons  made  only  \\\  miles,  and 
the  teams  came  into  camp  u blown ” and  staggering  after  their  day’s 
work.  Expecting  nothing  better  ahead,  it  was  determined  to  leave 
the  wagons  and  send  back  for  pack-saddles.  My  own  pack-saddles 
having  been  brought  along,  I had  time  to  observe  the  rates  of  my 
chronometers  and  make  other  preparatioi  s necessary  for  so  impor- 
tant a change  in  our  mode  of  proceeding. 

October  10th,  11th,  and  12th  were  passed  in  camp  waiting  for  the 
pack-saddles. 

We  are  now  203  miles  from  Santa  Fe,  measured  along  the  river; 
16  circum-meridian  altitudes  of  beta  aquarii,  and  17  altitudes  of 
polaris  give  me  for  the  latitude  of  the  place  33°  20'  02",  and  the 
longitude,  by  the  chronometer,  7h.  08m.  57s.  We  must  soon 
leave  the  river.  A cross  section  of  it  at  this  point  is  118  feet  wide, 
with  a mean  depth  of  14  inches,  flowing  over  large  round  pebbles, 
making  it,  at  this  point,  unsuitable  fo  navigation  with  any  kind  of 
boats. 

The  height  of  our  first  camp  on  the  Del  Norte,  one  mile  north  of 
San  Felippe,  indicated  by  the  barometer,  was  5,000  feet,  showing 
we  had  descended,  from  Santa  Fe,  1,800  feet. 

Here  the  height  is  4,241  feet,  showing  an  average  fall  in  the  Del 
Norte,  from  the  camp  near  San  Felippe  to  this  place,  of  four  feet 
and  a half  per  mile.  The  greater  part  of  the  way  the  fall  is  uni- 
form and  unobstructed  by  rapids,  and  the  river  flows,  for  the  most 
part,  over  a bed  of  sand,  without  any  sensible  increase  or  diminu- 
tion in  its  volume  of  water.  Sometimes  its  tranquil  course  is  rip- 
pled by  large  angular  fragments  of  basalt,  trapp,  lava,  and  amyg- 
daloid, which  everywhere  strew  the  table  lands  of  New  Mexico. 

Our  present  camp  is  in  a valley  70  or  100  acres  in  extent,  well 
grassed  and  wooded,  and  apparently  untrodden  by  the.  foot  of  man; 
for  here  we  saw,  for  the  first  time  in  New  Mexico,  any  considera- 
ble u signs”  of  game  in  the  tracks  of  the  bear,  the  deer,  and  the 
beaver.  We  flushed  several  bevies  of  the  blue  quail,  saw  a flock  of 
wild  geese,  summer  duck,  the  avocet,  and  crows. 

Above  and  below  us  is  a canon,  and  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
river  the  Fra  Cristobal  shoots  up  to  a great  height.  We  saw  on  its 
sides,  reaching  nearly  to  the  top,  large  black  objects  which  we 
could  not  distinguish  with  our  indifferent  glasses,  but  which  must 
be  either  shrubbery  or  rocks. 

For  the  last  night  or  two  it  has  been  unusually  cold,  the  ther- 
mometer ranging  from  25°  to  32°  Fahrenheit,  but  during  the  day 
it  mounts  up  to  75°  and  80°. 

October  13. — Moved  one  mile  to  get  better  grass.  Just  as  we 


56 


m 

had  pitched  our  new  camp  Lieutenant  Ingalls  came  up  with  a mail, 
and  gave  the  pleasant  information  that  the  saddles  were  only  about 
six  hours  behind. 

October  14. — We  parted  with  our  wagons,  which  were  sent  back 
under  charge  of  Lieutenant  Ingalls,  and,  in  doing  so,  every  man 
seemed  to  be  greatly  relie  red.  With  me  it  was  far  otherwise.  My 
chronometers  and  barometer,  which  before  rode  so  safely,  vrere 
now  in  constant  danger.  The  trip  of  a mule  might  destroy  the 
whole.  The  chronometers,  too,  were  of  the  largest  size,  unsuited 
to  carry  time  on  foot  or  horseback.  All  my  endeavors,  in  the  24 
hours  allowed  me  in  Washington  to  procure  a pocket  chronometer, 
had  failed.  I saw  then,  what  I now  feel,  the  superiority  of  pocket 
over  large  chronometers  for  expeditions  on  foot  or  horseback.  The 
viameter  for  measuring  distances,  heretofore  attached  to  the  wheel 
of  the  instrument  wagon,  was  now  attached  to  the  wheel  of  one  of 
the  small  mountain  howitzers. 

The  valley  narrows  into  a canon  at  Bush  peak,  and  opens  again 
a mile  or  so  wide,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  Growth  of 
to-day  much  the  same  as  yesterday. 

Bush  peak  is,  on  its  river  face,  a steep  escarpment  of  basalt,  and 
abreast  of  it,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  we  saw  many  chips  of 
metalliferous  limestone.  To-day,  met  a solitary  Mexican  mounted 
on  a mule,  driving  before  him  a horse,  with  his  back  literally 
skinned  with  the  saddle.  He  was  beating  the  poor  beast  over  the 
galled  place.  The  Mexicans  generally  treat  their  horses  and  mules 
in  a barbarous  manner,  riding  and  packing  them  when  their  backs 
are  running  with  sores. 

October  15. — After  travelling  three  and  a half  miles,  we  turned 
off  from  the  Del  Norte  and  took  final  leave  of  it  at  a pretty  little 
grove,  where  we  found  two  Mexicans  returning  from  a trading  expe- 
dition to  the  Apaches.  They  were  attending  a poor  worn  out  jennet, 
(that  had  been  maltreated  and  overtasked,)  in  the  hope  that  a few 
days’  rest  would  enable  it  to  take  their  lazy  bodies  to  the  settle- 
ments. 

At  this  point,  several  intelligent  guides  were  detached  to  look  up 
a road  further  south,  by  which  Captain  Cook,  who  is  to  follow  us 
with  the  Mormons,  may  turn  the  mountains  with  his  wagons.* 

After  mounting  to  the  table  land,  some  200  feet  above  the  valley, 
it  is  very  level,  except  where  the  table  land  is  indented  by  the 
streams  from  the  mountains,  most  of  which  are  now  dry.  We 
passed  two  in  succession,  both  deep  and  wide  errough  to  contain  all 
the  water  of  the  Mississippi,  and  presenting  the  appearance  of  the 
deserted  beds  of  once  large  and  turbulent  rivers.  The  beds  were 
paved  with  large  round  pebbles,  mostly  of  the  red  feklspathic 
granite. 

On  the  table  land  the  winter  grama  (a  more  delicate  grass  than 
summer  grama)was  in  great  abundance,  but  now  dry  and  sun  burnt. 
The  other  growth  noticed  to-day  consisted  of  malva,  senecio  longi- 
lobus,  small  mezquite,  fraxinus,  (ash,)  different  from  any  in  the 
United  States;  castilleja  and  datura. 


* The  route  followed  by  Colonel  Cooke  will  be  found  traced  on  the  ma,p 


57 


• m 

Far  off,  to  the  south,  between  the  peaks  of  two  high  mountains, 
stretched  the  table  land  contiguous  to  the  valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 
For  the  first  time  since  leaving  the  Arkansas  the  mirage  was  seen, 
and  gave  the  wide  opening  the  appearance  of  a sheet  of  water 
disturbed  by  the  wind.  Two  distant  peaks  looming  up  looked,  for 
all  the  world,  like  a fore  and-aft-schooner.  As  I was  observing 
this  my  mule  came  to  a halt  at  the  edge  of  a steep  precipice. 
Below  were  green  trees  and  luxuriant  foliage,  the  sure  indication 
of  water.  The  stream  was  clear,  limpid,  and  cool,  the  first,  but 
one,  I had  seen  since  crossing  the  Alleghanies,  where  water  could 
be  drunk  without  imbibing  a due  proportion  of  mud  and  sand.  Its 
name,  Paloma,  (Pigeon  creek.) 

In  the  valley  grows  cotton  wood,  a new  variety  of  evergreen  oak, 
with  leaves  like  the  holly,  a new*variety  of  ash,  and  a new  kind  of 
black  walnut,  with  fruit  about  half  the  size  of  ours.  The  oak  was 
covered  with  round  red  balls,  the  size  and  color  of  apricots — the  ef- 
fects of  disease  or  the  stin^  of  an  insect. 

Four  miles  further  brought  us  to  another  creek  of  clear  water, 
running  sluggishly,  and  like  the  last  the  size  of  a man’s  waist.  In 
its  valley  were  many  large  trees,  uprooted,  presenting  the  appear- 
ance of  new  ground. 

On  the  plains  and  in  the  dry  valleys  were  many  rare  specimens 
of  chalcedony.  The  only  living  thing  seen  was  a small  rattle- 
snake, the  first  since  we  left  Vegas,  of  the  size  and  mark  of  the 
small  prairie  snake,  but  of  reddish  hue,  like  that  of  the  ground  it 
inhabited. 

Observed  to-night  for  latitude  and  longitude;  our  height  was  (ap- 
proximately) 4,810  feet  above  the  sea. 

October  16. — -We  commenced  the  approach  to  the  Mimbres 
mountains  over  a beautiful  rolling  country,  traversed  by  small 
streams  of  pure  wmter, /ringed  with  a stunted  growth  of  walnut,  live 
oak  and  ash.  The  soil  in  the  valleys  and  to  the  hill  tops  of  the  best 
quality,  covered  with  a luxuriant  growth  of  grama,  a species  of  en- 
triana  differing  from  the  large  grama.  Nothing  but  rain  is  required 
to  make  this  part  of  the  country  inhabitable.  There  were  several 
new  and  beautiful  varieties  of  cactus  and  the  entamario  (tessaica 
borealis)  diotis  lanata  in  great  luxuriance;  one  a miniature  tree, 
■with  the  stalk  six  inches  in  diameter,  a new  species  of  dieteria  like 
an  aster,  with  fine  purple  flowers;  aster  hebecladus  and  three  leaved 
barberry  (berberis  trifoliolata.) 

This  must  one  flay  become  a great  grazing  country,  particularly 
for  sheep.  The  pure  dry  air  is  eminently  adapted  to  them,  and  they 
are  said  to  be  in  all  New  Mexico  very  prolific,  an  ewe  seldom  fail- 
ing to  drop  two  lambs. 

October  17. — We  ascended  from  the  stream,  on  which  we  were 
encamped,  by  a narrow  valley  for  2-J  hours  before  reaching  the  sum- 
mit between  it  and  the  Mimbres,  which  was  so  indistinct  that  I 
passed  it  several  miles  before  discovering  it.  We  descended  in  an 
arroyo  towards  the  Rio  Mimbres,  very  narrow,  and  .full  of  shattered 
pitch  stone;  the  sides  and  bank  covered  with  a thick  growth  of 
stunted  live  oak.  In  full  view,  nearly  the  whole  time  of  our  de- 


58 


m 

scent,  was  a mountain  of  peculiar  symmetry,  resembling  the  seg- 
ment of  a spheroid.  I named  it  “the  Dome57.  Our  road  led  along 
its  base  to  the  north;  another  path  leading  to  Janos,  a frontier  town 
in  Sonora,  passes  down  the  Mimbres  on  the  south  side.  The 
Mimbres  was  traversed  only  a mile;  for  that  distance  its  valley 
was  truly  beautiful,  about  one  mile  wide  of  rich  fertile  soil,  densely 
covered  with  cotton  wood,  walnut,  ash,  &c.  It*  it  is  a rapid,  dash- 
ing stream,  about  fifteen  feet  wide  and  three  deep,  affording  suffi- 
cient water  to  irrigate  its  beautiful  vallev.  If  is  filled  with  trout. 
At  this  place  we  found  numberless  Indian  lodges,  which  had  the 
appearance  of  not  having  been  occupied  for  some  time.  We  turned 
westward  and  ascended  all  the  way  to  our  camp. 

The  mountains  appeared  to  be  formed  chiefly  of  a reddish  amyg- 
daloid and  a brown  altered  sandstone,  with  chaledonic  coating.  In 
places,  immense  piles  of  conglomerate  protruded;  disposed  in  regu- 
lar strata,  dipping  to  the  south  at  an  angle  of  45°.  There  was  also 
one  pile  of  volcanic  glass  brittle,  in  strata  about  a half  an  inch 
thick,  dipping  45°  to  the  south.  The  character  of  the  country  and 
its  growth  to-day  are  very  similar  to  those  of  yesterday;  several  new 
plants  and  shrubs,  amongst  which  was  the  cercocarpus  parvifolius, 
a curious  rosaceous  shrub,  “with  a spiral,  feathery  tail,  projecting 
from  each  calyx  when  the  plant  is  in  seed.77  The  spiral  tailed  or 
barbed  seed-vessels  fall  when  ripe,  and,  impelled  by  the  wind,  work 
into  the  ground  by  a gyratory  motion.  The  cedar  seen  to-day  was 
also  very  peculiar;  in  leaf  resembling  the  common  cedar  of  the 
States,  but  the  body  like  the  pine,  except  that  its  bark  was  much 
rougher.  (For  the  rest  of  to-day7s  growth,  see  catalogue  of  plants 
for  this  date.) 

At  night,  12  circum-meridian  altitudes  of  beta  aquarii,and  seven 
altitudes  of  Polaris,  give  for  the  latitude  of  the  camp  42°  11b 

October  18. — A succession  of  hills  and  valleys  covered  with 
cedar,  live  oak  and  some  long  leafed  pine.  We  passed  at  the  foot 
of  a formidable  bluff  of  trapp,  running  northwest  and  southeast, 
which  I named  Ben  Moore,  after  my  personal  friend,  the  gallant 
Captain  Moore,  of  the  1st  dragoons.  In  many  places  the  path  was 
strewed  with  huge  fragments  of  this  hard  rock,  making  it  difficult 
for  the  mules  to  get  along.  Turning  the  north  end  of  Ben  Moore 
bluff,  we  began  to  drop  into  the  valley  of  what  is  supposed  an  arm 
of  the  Mimbres,  where  there  are  some  deserted  copper  mines. 
They  are  said  to  be  very  rich,  both  in  copper  and  gold,  and  the  spe- 
cimens obtained  sustain  this  assertion.  We  leayied  that  those  who 
worked  them  made  their  fortunes;  but  the  Apaches  did  not  like 
their  proximity,  and  one  day  turned  out  and  destroyed  the  mining 
town,  driving  off  the  inhabitants.  There  are  the  remains  of  some 
twenty  or  thirty  adobe  houses,  and  ten  or  fifteen  shafts  sinking  into 
the  earth.  The  entire  surface  of  the  hill  into  which  they  are 
sunk  is  covered  with  iron  pyrites  and  the  red  oxide  of  copper. 

Many  veins  of  native  copper  were  found,  but  the  principal  ore 
is  the  sulphuret.  One  or  two  specimens  of  ammoniate  of  silver  were 
also  obtained. 

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was  the  principal  operator  in  these  mines,  and  is  said  to  have 
amassed  an  immense  fortune.  On  his  first  arrival  in  the  country  he 
was  suspected  to  be  an  agent  of  the  United  States,  and  thrown 
into  prison  in  Sonora,  where  he  was  kept  in  irons  for  eleven  years. 
He  is  said  to  have  stated  that  the  gjld  found  in  the  ore  of  these 
mines  paid  all  the  expenses  of  mining,  and  the  transportation  of  the 
ore  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  where  it  was  reduced. 

We  were  disappointed  in  not  meeting  the  Apaches  yesterday  and 
to-day.  This  afternoon  three  men  came  in  dressed  very  much  like 
the  Mexicans,  mounted  -on  horses.  They  held  a talk,  but  I do 
not  know  the  purport.  This  afternoon  I found  the  famous  mezcal, 
(an  agave,)  about  three  feet  in  diameter,  broad  leaves,  armed  with 
teeth  like  a shark;  the  leaves  arranged  in  concentric  circles,  and 
terminating  in  the  middle  of  the  plant  in  a perfect  cone.  Of  this 
the  Apaches  make  molasses,  and  cook  it  with  horse  meat. 

We  also  found  to-day  the  dasylirion  graminifolium,  a plant  with 
a long,  narrow  leaf,  with  sharp  teeth  on  the  margin,  with  a stalk 
eighteen  feet  high.  According  to  Doctor  Torrey,  it  has  lately  been 
^described  by  Zuccarini,”  who  says  ufour  species  of  this  genus  are 
now  known,  all  of  them  Mexican  or  Texan. ” 

The  elevation  of  this  camp  was  6,167  feet. 

October  19. — I tried  last  night  to  get  observations  for  latitude, 
&c.;  but  the  early  part  was  cloudy,  and  we  fell  asleep  and  did  not 
wake  till  broad  daylight.  In  the  afternoon  there  was  a thunder- 
storm to  the  west,  which  swept  around  towards  the  north,  where  it 
thundered  and  lightened  till  nearly  9 o’clock.  The  country  passed 
over  in  the  first  part  of  to-day  was  beautiful  in  the  extreme;  a 
succession  of  high,  rolling  hills,  with  mountains  in  the  distance. 
The  soil  rich,  and  waving  with  grama.  The  latter  part  was  more 
barren,  and  covered  with  artemisias. 

• The  spring  of  San  Lucia,  13|  miles  from  the  copper  mines,  very 
large  and  impregnated  with  sulphur,  is  in  a beautiful  valley,  sur- 
rounded, at  the  distance  of  ten  or  fifteen  miles,  with  high  moun- 
tains. This  was  the  place  appointed  for  meeting  the  Apaches,  at 
11,  a.  m.;  but  arriving  at  12,  and  not  finding  them  as  we  expected, 
and  the  grass  all  eaten  up,  we  moved  on  to  Night  creek,  making  30 
miles.  W e halted  at  night  on  unknown  ground,  by  the  side  of  a creek, 
so  miry  that  the  mules,  some  of  which  had  not  drunk  since  morn- 
ing, refused  to  approach  it.  It  was  dark;  many  of  the  men  mistook 
the  trail  and  got  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  treacherous  creek.  The 
mules  begun  to  bray,  for  water,  and  the  men  to  call  out  for  their 
messmates;  all  were  in  confusion.  My  thoughts  of  last  night  came 
vividly  to  my  mind,  as  I heard  the  voice  of  my  chronometer  man 
on  the  other  side,  asking  to  be  shown  the  way  across.  I sent  him 
word  to  retrace  his  steps  two  or  three  miles. 

The  assembly  call  was  sounded,  which  seemed  to  settle  all  things; 
and,  as  far  as  the  clouds  would  allow  me,  I obtained  observations. 
This  is  only  the  second  time  since  leaving  the  100th  degree  of 
longitude  that  I have  been  interrupted  by  clouds  in  my  observa- 
tions. Nothing  has  been  heretofore  more  rare  than  to  see  the  heavens 
otercast. 


[-7]  60 

An  Apache  has  just  come  in,  and  says  the  people  who  agreed  to 
meet  us  at  the  spring  yesterday  are  coming  on  with  some  mules  to 
trade. 

Three  miles  from  the  camp  of  last  night  we  had  reached 
the  “divide,5’  and  from  that  point  the  descent  was  regular  and  con- 
tinuous to  Night  creek.  The  ravines  on  either  side  of  the  “divide55 
are  covered  with  fragments  of  blue  limestone  and  rich  specimens 
of  the  magnetic  oxides  of  iron. 

October  20. — My  curiosity  was  excited  to  see  by  daylight  howmy 
camp  was  disposed  and  what?  sort  of  place  we  were  in.  It  was  quite 
certain  the  broad,  level  valley  we  had  been  traveling  the  last  few 
miles  was  narrowing  rapidly,  by  the  intrusion  of  high  precipices; 
and  the  proximity  of  great  mountains  in  confused  masses  indicated 
some  remarkable  change  in  the  face  of  the  country.  We  were, 
in  truth,  but  a few  miles  from  the  Gila,  which  I was  no  less  desi- 
rous of  seeing  than  the  Del  Norte. 

The  general  sent  word  to  the  Apaches  he  would  not  start  till  9 or 
10.  This  gave  them  time  to  come  in,  headed  by  their  chief,  Red 
SI  eeve.  They  swore  eternal  friendship  to  the  whites,  and  everlast- 
ing hatred  to  the  Mexicans.  The  Indians  said  that  one,  two  or 
three  white  men  might  now  pass  in  safety  through  their  country; 
that  if  they  were  hungry,  they  would  feed  them;  or,  if  on  foot, 
mount  them.  The  road  was  open  to  the  American  now  and  forever. 
Carson,  with  a twinkle  of  his  keen  hazel  eye,  observed  to  me,  “I  | 
would  not  trust  one  of  them.55 

The  whole  camp  was  now  busily  engaged  in  attempting  to  trade. 
The  Indians  had  mules,  ropes,  whips  and  mezcal.  We  wished  to 
get  a refit  in  all  save  the  mezcal,  offering  to  give  in  exchange  red 
shirts,  blankets,  knives,  needles,  thread,  handkerchiefs,  &c.,  &c.; 
but  these  people  had  such  extravagant  notions  of  our  wealth,  it  was  ; 
impossible  to  make  any  progress.  At  length  the  call  of  “boots  and 
saddles55  sounded.  The  order,  quickness  and  quietude  of  our  move- 
ments seemed  to  impress  them.  One  of  the  chiefs,  after  eyeing  the 
general  with  great  apparent  admiration,  broke  out  in  a vehement 
manner:  “You  have  taken  New  Mexico,  and  will  soon  take  Cali- 
fornia; go,  then,  and  take  Chihuahua,  Durango  and  Sonora.  We  will 
help  you.  You  fight  for  land;  we  care  nothing  for  land;  we  fight 
for  the  laws  of  Montezuma  and  for  food.  The  Mexicans  are  ras- 
cals; we  hate  and  will  kill  them  all.55  There  burst  out  the  smothered 
fire  of  three  hundred  years  ! Finding  we  were  more  indifferent 
than  they  supposed  to  trade,  and  that  the  column  was  in  motion, 
they  became  at  once  eager  for  traffic. 

They  had  seen  some  trumpery  about  my  camp  which  pleased 
them,  and  many  of  them  collected  there.  My  packs  were  made. 
One  of  my  gentlest  mules,  at  that  moment  took  t right , and  went  off 
like  a rocket  on  the  back  trail,  scattering  to  the  right  and  left  all 
who  opposed  him.  A large,  elegant  looking  woman,  mounted  a 
straddle,  more  valiant  than  the  rest,  faced  the  brute  and  charged 
upon  him  at  full  speed.  This  turned  his  course  back  to  the  camp;  i 
and  I rewarded  her  by  half  a dozen  biscuit,  and  through  her  inter- 
vention, succeeded  in  trading  two  broken  down  mules  for  two 


Lith  .>tv\TC  ."Weber  8cCo^BaltX). 


61 


m 

good  ones,  giving  two  yards  of  scarlet  cloth  in  the  bargain.  By 
this  time  a large  number  of  Indians  had  collected  about  us,  all  dif- 
ferently dressed,  and  some  in  the  most  fantastical  style.  The 
Mexican  dress  and  saddles  predominated,  showing  where  they  had 
chiefly  made  up  their  wardrobe.  One  had  a jacket  made  of  a Henry 
Clay  flag,  which  aroused  unpleasant  sensations,  for  the  acquisition, 
no  doubt,  cost  one  of  our  countrymen  his  life.  Several  wore  beau- 
tiful helmets,  decked  with  black  feathers,  which,  with  the  short 
shirt,  waist  belt,  bare  legs  and  busking  gave  them  the  look  of  pic- 
tures of  antique  Grecian  warriors.  Most  were  furnished  with  the 
Mexican  cartridge  box,  which  consists  of  a strap  round  the  waist, 
■with  cylinders  inserted  for  the  cartridges. 

These  men  have  no  fixed  homes.  Their  houses  are  of  twigs, 
made  easily,  and  deserted  with  indifference.  They  hover  around 
the  beautiful  hills  that  overhang  the  Del  Norte  between  the  31st 
and  32d  parallels  of  latitude,  and  look  down  upon  the  States  of 
Chihuahua  and  Sonora;  and  woe  to  the  luckless  company  that  ven- 
tures out  unguarded  by  a strong  force.  Their  hills  are  covered 
with  luxuriant  grama,  which  enables  them  to  keep  their  horses  in 
fine  order,  so  that  they  can  always  pursue  with  rapidity  and  retreat 
with  safety.  The  light  and  graceful  manner  in  which  they  mounted 
and  dismounted,  always  upon  the  right  side,  was  the  admiration  of 
all.  The  children  are  on  horseback  from  infancy.  There  was 
amongst  them  a poor  deformed  woman,  with  legs  and  arms  no 
longer  than  an  infant’s.  I could  not  learn  her  history,  but  she  had 
a melancholy  cast  of  countenance.  She  was  well  mounted,  and 
the  gallant  manner  in  which  some  of  the  plumed  Apaches  waited 
on  her,  for  she  was  perfectly  helpless  when  dismounted,  made  it 
hard  for  me  to  believe  the  tales  of  blood  and  vice  told  of  these 
people.  She  asked  for  water,  and  one  or  two  were  at  her  side; 
one  handed  it  to  her  in  a tin  wash  basin,  which,  from  its  size,  was 
the  favorite  drinking  cup. 

We  wended  our  way  through  the  narrow  valley  of  Night  creek. 

On  each  side  were  huge  stone  buttes  shooting  up  into  the  skies. 

At  one  place  we  were  compelled  to  mount  one  of  these  spurs 
almost  perpendicular.  This  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  seeing  what 
a mule  could  do.  My  conclusion  was,  from  what  I saw,  that  they 
could  climb  nearly  as  steep  a wall  as  a cat.  A pack  slipped  from 
a mule,  and,  though  not  shaped  favorably  for  the  purpose,  rolled 
entirely  to  the  base  of  the  hill,  over  which  the  mules  had  climbed. 

A good  road  was  subsequently  found  turning  the  spur  and  fol- 
lowing the  creek,  until  it  debouched  into  the  Gila,  which  was  only 
a mile  distant. 

Some  hundred  yards  before  reaching  this  river  the  roar  of  its 
waters  made  us  understand  that  we  were  to  see  something  different 
from  the  Del  Norte.  Its  section,  where  we  struck  it,  (see  the  map,) 
4,347  feet  above  the  sea,  was  50  feet  wide  and  an  average  of  two 
feet  deep.  Clear  and  swift,  it  came  bouncing  from  the  great  moun- 
tains which  appeared  to  the  north  about  60  miles  distant.  We 
crossed  the  river,  its  large  round  pebbles  and  swift  current  caus- 
ing the  mules  to  tread  wearily. 


We  followed  its  course,  and  encamped  under  a high  range  of 
symmetrically  formed  hills  overhanging  the  river.  Our  camp  resem- 
bled very  much  the  centre  of  a yard  of  huge  stacks. 

We  heard  the  fish  playing  in  the  water,  and  soon  those  who  were 
disengaged  were  after  them.  At  first  it  was  supposed  they  were 
the  mountain  trout,  but,  being  comparatively  fresh  from  the  hills  of 
Maine,  I soon  saw  the  difference.  The  shape,  general  appearance, 
and  the  color  are  the  same;  at  a little  distance,  you  will  imagine 
the  fish  covered  with  delicata  scales,  but  on  a closer  examination 
you  will  find  that  they  are  only  the  impression  of  scales.  The  meat 
is  soft,  something  between  the  trout  and  the  cat-fish,  but  more  like 
the  latter.  They  are  in  great  abundance. 

We  saw  here  also,  in  great  numbers,  the  blue  quail.  The  bottom 
of  the  river  is  narrow,  covered  with  large  round  pebbles.  The 
growth  of  trees  and  weeds  was  very  luxuriant;  the  trees  chiefly 
cotton-wood,  a new  sycamore,  mezquite,  pala,  (the  tallow  tree  of 
our  hunters,)  a few  cedars,  and  one  or  two  larch.  There  were  some 
grape  and  hop  vines. 

16  circum-meridian  observations  beta  aquarii,  and  9 of  polaris, 
give  the  latitude  of  this  camp  32°  50'  08".  Its  approximate  longi- 
tude is  108°  45'  00". 

October  21. — After  going  a few  miles,  crossing  and  recrossing 
the  river  a dozen  times,  it  was  necessary  to  leave  its  bed  to  avoid 
a canon.  This  led  us  over  a very  broken  country,  traversed  by 
huge  dykes  of  trap  and  walls  of  basalt.  The  ground  was  literally 
covered  with  the  angular  fragments  of  these  hard  rocks. 

From  one  of  these  peaks  wTe  had  an  extended  view  of  the  country 
in  all  directions.  The  mountains  run  from  northwest  to  southeast, 
and  rise  abruptly  from  the  plains  in  long  narrow  ridges,  resembling 
trap  dykes  on  a great  scale.  These  chains  seem  to  terminate  at  a 
certain  distance  to  the  south,  leaving  a level  road,  from  the  Del 
Norte  about  the  32d  parallel  of  latitude,  westward  to  the  Gila. 
These  observations,  though  not  conclusive,  agree  with  the  reports 
of  the  guides,  who  say  Colonel  Cooke  will  have  no  difficulty  with 
his  wagons. 

The  mountains  were  of  volcanic  rock  of  various  colors,  feld- 
spathic  granite,  and  red  sand  stone,  with  a dip  to  the  northwest, 
huge  hills  of  a conglomerate  of  angular  and  rounded  fragments  of 
quartz,  basalt,  and  trap  cemented  by  a substance  that  agrees  well 
with  the  description  I have  read  of  the  puzzolana  of  Rome. 

The  earth  in  the  river  bed,  where  it  was  not  paved  with  the  frag- 
ments of  rocks,  was  loose,  resembling  volcanic  dust,  making  it 
unsafe  to  ride  out  of  the  beaten  track.  A mule  would  sometimes 
sink  to  his  knee;  but  the  soil  was  easily  packed,  and  three  or  foqr 
mules  in  advance  made  a good  firm  trail. 

This  was  a hard  day  on  the  animals,  the  steep  ascents  and 
descents  shifting  the  packs,  and  cutting  them  dreadfully. 

The  howitzers  did  not  reach  camp  at  all. 

A few  pounds  of  powder  would  blast  the  projections  of  rock 
from  the  canon,  and  make  it  passable  for  packs,  and  possibly  for 
wagons  also.  The  route  upon  which  the  wagons  are  to  follow  is, 


Fisli  of  the  Rio  Gila  without  scales 


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however,  to  the  south  of  this.  Under  this  date,  in  the  catalogue  of 
plants  will  he  found  many  differing  from  those  heretofore  observed; 
amongst  them  the  zanschneria  Californica,  also  a new  shrub  with 
an  edible  nut,  a grass  allied  to  the  grama,  Adam’s  needle,  artemisia 
cana,  and  many  varieties  of  mezquite. 

October  22. — The  howitzers  came  up  about  nine  o’clock,  having, 
in  the  previous  day’s  work,  their  shafts  broken,  and,  indeed,  every- 
thing that  was  possible  to  break  about  them.  We  again  left  the 
river  to  avoid  a canon,  which  I examined  in  several  places,  and 
saw  no  obstacles  to  a good  road.  The  canon  was  formed  by  a seam 
of  basalt,  overlaying  limestone  and  sand-stone  in  regular  strata. 
Through  these  the  river  cuts  its  wayr. 

Many  deep  arroyos  have  paid  tribute  to  the  Gila,  but  in  none  have 
we  yet  found  water.  Following  the  bed  of  one  of  these,  to  exa- 
mine the  eccentric  geological  formation  it  displayed,  I found  un- 
known characters  written  on  a rock,  copies  of  which  were  made, 
•but  their  antiquity  is  questionable. 

We  were  now  fast  approaching  the  ground  where  rumor  and  the 
maps  of  the  day  place  the  ruins  of  the  so  called  Aztec  towns.  This 
gave  the  characters  alluded  to  additional  interest;  they  "were  in- 
dented on  a calcareous  sandstone  rock,  chrome  colored  on  the  out- 
side, presenting  a perfectly  wffiite  fracture.  This  made  them  very 
conspicuous,  and  easily  seen  from  a distance.  The  coloring  mat- 
ter of  the  external  face  of  the  rock  may  proceed  from  water,  as 
there  was  above  the  characters  a distinct  water-line,  and  every  ap- 
pearance that  this  gorge  had  more  than  once  been  the  scene  of  over- 
flows and  devastation. 

We  encamped  on  a bluff  high  above  the  river,  in  view  of  a rock 
which  we  named,  from  its  general  appearance,  Steeple  rock. 

Latitude  of  our  camp  to-night,  by  17  circum-meridian  altitudes 
of  beta  aquarii,  32°  38'  13".  Longitude  109°  07'  30". 

October  23. — Last  night  the  heavens  became  overcast,  the  air 
damp,  and  we  expected  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Santa  Fe,  (a 
month  to-morrow,)  to  have  a sprinkle  of  rain;  but,  at  9 this  morn- 
ing, the  clouds  had  all  been  chased  away,  and  the  sun  careered 
up  in  undisputed  possession  of  all  above  the  horizon.  The  atmos- 
phere resumed  its  dryness  and  elasticity,  and  at  night  the 
stars  looked  brighter,  and  the  depth  of  the  spaces  between  greater, 
than  ever. 

The  changes  of  temperature  are  very  great,  owing  to  the  distance 

from  the  influence  of  large  masses  of  water,  a*ul,  if  they  were  ac- 
companied by  corresponding  changes  in  humidity,  they  would  be 
insupportable.  Last  night  we  went  to  bed  with  the  thermometer  at 
70°  Fahrenheit,  and  awakened  this  morning  shivering,  the  ther- 
mometer marking  25°;  yet,  notwithstanding,  our  blankets  were  as 
dry  as  though  we  had  slept  in  a house. 

The  table  land,  150  feet  above  the  river,  was  covered  so 
thick  with  large  paving  pebbles,  as  to  make  it  difficult  to  get  a 
smooth  place  to  lie  upon. 

The  growth  of  to-day  and  yesterday,  on  the  hills  and  in  the  val- 
leys, very  much  resembles  that  on  the  Del  Norte,  the  only  excep- 
tions being  a few  new  and  beautiful  varieties  of  the  cactus.  After 


64 


m 

leaving  our  last  night’s  camp,  for  a mile,  the  general  appearance, 
width  of  the  valley,  and  soil,  much  resemble  the  most  fertile  parts 
of  that  river.  This,  so  far,  has  decidedly  the  best  soil,  and  the 
fall  of  the  river  being  greater,  makes  it  more  easy  to  irrigate. 

To-day  we  passed  one  of  the  long  sought  ruins.  I examined  it 
minutely,  and  the  only  evidences  of  handicraft  remaining,  were 
immense  quantities  of  broken  pottery,  extending  for  two  miles 
along  the  river.  There  were  a great  many  stones,  rounded  by  at- 
trition of  the  water,  scattered  about;  and,  if  they  had  not  occa- 
sionally been  disposed  in  lines  forming  rectangles  with  each  other, 
the  supposition  would  be,  that  they  had  been  deposited  there  by 
natural  causes. 

October  24. — To-day  wTe  laid  by  to  recruit.  Although  the  moon 
wras*not  in  a favorable  position,  I availed  myself  of  the  opportunity 
to  get  a few  lunar  distances.  18  circum-meridian  altitude  of  beta 
aquarii,  and  12  altitudes  of  polaris,  give  for  the  latitude  of  the 
place  32°  44/  52",  and  8 distances  between  d and  Fomalhaut  give 
for  the  longitude  109°  22'  00".  We  feasted  to-day  on  the  blue 
quail  and  teal,  and  at  night  Stanly  came  in  writh  a goose.  u Signs” 
of  beaver  and  deer  were  very  distinct;  these,  with  the  wolf,  con- 
stitute the  only  animals  yet  traced  on  the  river. 

October  25. — The  general  character  of  the  country  is  much  the 
same  as  before  represented;  but  towards  camp,  it  broke  into  irreg- 
ular and  fantastic  looking  mountains.  A rose-colored  tint  was  im- 
parted to  the  whole  landscape,  by  the  predominance  of  red  feld- 
spar. The  road  became  broken  and  difficult  as  it  wound  its  way 
around  two  short  canons. 

We  were  now  in  the  regions  made  famous  in  olden  times  by  the 
fables  of  Friar  Marcos,  and  eagerly  did  we  ascend  every  mound,  ex- 
pecting to  see  in  the  distance  what  I fear  is  but  the  fabulous  u Casa 
Montezuma.”  Once,  as  we  turned  a sharp  hill,  the  bold  outline  of 
a castle  presented  itself,  with  the  tops  of  the  walls  horizontal,  the 
corners  vertical,  and  apparently  one  front  bastioned.  My  com- 
panion agreed  with  me  that  we  at  last  beheld,  this  famed  building; 
on  we  spurred  our  unwilling  brutes;  restless  for  the  show,  I drew 
out  my  telescope,  when  to  my  disappointment  a clay  butte,  with 
regular  horizontal  seams,  stood  in  the  place' of  our  castle;  but  to 
the  naked  eye  the  delusion  was  complete.  It  is  not  impossible 
that  this  very  butte,  which  stands  on  an  imposing  height  in  the  centre 
of  a vast  amphitheatre  of  turreted  hills,  has  been  taken  by  the 
trappers,  willing  to  see,  and  more  especially  to  report  marvellous 
things,  for  the  u Casa  Montezuma.”  The  Indians  here  do  not 
know  the  name  Aztec.  Montezuma  is  the  outward  point  in  their 
chronology;  and  as  he  is  supposed  to  have  lived  and  reigned'  for 
all  time  preceding  his  disappearance,  so  do  they  speak  of  every 
event  preceding  the  Spanish  conquest  as  of  the  days  of  Monte- 
zuma. 

The  name,  at  this  moment,  is  as  familiar  to  every  Indian,  Puebla, 
Apache,  and  Navajoe,  as  that  of  our  Saviour  or  Washington  is  to 
us.  In  the  person  of  Montezuma,  they  unite  both  qualities  of  di- 
vinity and  patriot. 


65 


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| ' x . < . 

We  passed  to-day  the  ruins  of  two  more  villages  similar  to  those 
of  yesterday.  The  foundation  of  the  largest  house  seen  yesterday 
was  60  by  20  feet;  to-day,  40  by  30.  About  none  didT  we  find 
any  vestiges  of  the  mechanical  arts,  except  the  pottery;  the  stone 
forming  the  supposed  foundation  was  round  and  unhewn,  and  some 
cedar  logs  were  also  found  about  the  houses,  much  decayed,  bear- 
ing no  mark  of  an  edged  tool.  Except  these  ruins,  of  which  not 
| * one  stone  remained  upon  another,  no  marks  of  human  hands  or  foot- 
step have  been  visible  for  many  days,  until  to-day  we  came  upon 
a place  where  there  had  been  an  extensive  fire.  Following  the 
course  of  this  fire,  as  it  bared  the  ground  of  the  shrubbery,  and  ex- 
posed the  soil,  &c.,  to  view,  I found  what  was  to  us  a very  great 
vegetable  curiosity,  a cactus,  18  inches  high,  and  18  inches  in  its 
greatest  diameter,  containing  20  vertical  volutes,  armed  with  strong 
spines.  When  the  traveller  is  parched  with  thirst,  one  of  these,  split 
open,  will  give  sufficient  liquid  to  afford  relief.  Several  of  these 
cacti  were  found  nearly  torn  from  the  earth,  and  lying  in  the  dry 
bed  of  a stream. 

These  and  the  mezquite,  acacia,  prosopis  odorata,  and  prosopis 
glandulosa,  now  form  the  principal  growth.  Under  the  name  mez- 
quite,  the  voyageur  comprises  all  the  acacia  and  prosopis  family. 

Last  night,  about  nine  o’clock,  I heard  the  yell  of  a wolf,  resem- 
bling that  of  a four  months.’  old  pup.  In  a few  minutes  there 
was  a noise  like  distant  thunder.  “Stampede  !”  shouted  a fellow, 
and  in  an  instant  every  man  was  amongst  the  mules.  With  one 
rush  they  had  broken  every  rope;  and  this  morning,  when 
we  started,  one  of  our  mules  was  missing,  which  gave  us  infinite 
annoyance.  Our  party  is  so  economically  provided  that  we  could 
not  afford  to  lose  even  a mule,  and  I left  four  men  to  look  it  up, 
who  did  not  rejoin  us  till  night. 

A question  arose  involving  a serious  point  of  mountain  law,  which 
differs  somewhat  from  prairie  law.  One  of  my  party  captured  a beau- 
tiful dun  colored  mule,  which  was  claimed  by  another  party ; the  one 
claiming  the  prize  for  having  first  seen  the  animal  and  then  catching 
it  with  the  lazo.  The  other  pleaded  ownership  of  the  rope,  used  as 
a lazo,  as  its  title.  It  was  settled  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  first. 

The  mule  was  one  which  Carson  had  left  on  his  way  out,  and  on 
being  asked  why  he  did  not  claim  it,  he  said  it  was  too  young 
to  be  useful  in  packing,  and  as  we  now  bad  plenty  of  beef,  it  would 
not  be  required  for  food,  and  he  did  not  care  about  it. 

October  26.- — Soon  after  leaving  camp,  the  banks  of  the  river  be- 
came gullied  on  each  side  by  deep  and  impassable  arroyos.  This-- 
drove  us  insensibly  to  the  mountains,  until  at  length  we  found  our- 
selves some  thousand  feet  above  the  river,  and  it  was  not  until  we 
had  made  sixteen  miles  that  we  again  descended  to  it.  This  dis- 
tance occupied  eight  and  a half  hours  of  incessant  toil  to  the  men, 
and  misery  to  our  best  mules.  Some  did  not  reach  camp  at  all, 
and  when  the  day  dawned  one  or  two,  who  had  lost  their  way,  were 
seen  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  within  a few  steps  of  a high  pre- 
cipice, from  which  it  required  some  skill  to  extricate  them.  The 
men  named  this  pass  “the  Devil’s  turnpike,”  and  I see  no  reason  to 
5 


66 


[-7] 

change  it.  The  whole  way  was  a succession  of  steep  ascents  and 
descents,  paved  with  sharp,  angular  fragments  of  basalt  and  trap. 
The  metallic  clink  of  spurs,  and  the  rattling  of  the  mule  shoes,  the 
high  black  peaks,  the  deep  dark  ravines,  and  the  unearthly  look- 
ing cactus,  which  stuck  out  from  the  rocks  like  the  ears  of  Mephis- 
topheles,  all  favored  the  idea  that  we  were  now  treading  on  the  verge 
of  the  regions  below.  Occasionally  a mule  gave  up  the  ghost,  and 
was  left  as  a propitiatory  tribute  to  the  place.  This  day’s  jour- 
ney cost  us  some  twelve  or  fifteen  mules;  one  of  mine  fell  headlong 
down  a precipice,  and,  to  the  surprise  of  all,  survived  the  fall. 

The  barometric  height  was  taken  several  times  to-day.  Long  and 
anxious  was  my  study  of  these  mountains,  to  ascertain  something 
of  their  general  direction  and  form.  Those  on  the  north  side  swept 
in  something  like  a regular  curve  from  our  camp  of  last  night  to  the 
mouth  of  the  San  Carlos,  deeply  indented  in  two  places  by  the  in- 
gress into  the  Gila  of  the  Prierte  (Black)  and  Azul  (Blue)  rivers. 
Those  on  the  south,  where  we  passed,  were  a confused  mass  of  ba- 
salt and  trap,  and  I could  give  no  direction  to  the  axis  of  maximum 
elevation.  They  seemed  to  drift  off  to  the  southeast.  Wherever 
the  eye  wandered,  huge  mountains  were  seen  of  black,  volcanic  ap- 
pearance, of  very  compact  argillaceous  limestone,  tinged  at  times 
with  scarlet  from  the  quantities  of  red  feldspar.  Through  these  the 
Gila  (now  swift)  has  cut  its  narrow  way  with  infinite  labor,  assisted 
by  the  influx  of  the  Prierte,  the  Azul  and  San  Carlos  rivers.  As  the 
story  goes,  the  Prierte  flows  down  from  the  mountains,  freighted  with 
gold.  Its  sands  are  said  to  be  full  of  this  precious  metal.  A few  ad- 
venturers, who  ascended  this  river  hunting  beaver,  washed  the  sands 
at  night  when  they  halted , and  were  richly  rewarded  for  their  trouble. 
Tempted  by  their  success,  they  made  a second  trip,  and  were  at- 
tacked and  most  of  them  killed  by  the  Indians.  My  authority  for 
this  statement  is  Londeau,  who,  though  an  illiterate  man,  is  truthful. 

October  27. — After  yesterday’s  work  we  were  obliged  to  lay  by 
to-day.  The  howutzers  came  up  late  in  the  afternoon.  They  are 
•small,  mounted  on  wheels  ten  feet  in  circumference,  which  stand 
apart  about  three  feet,  and  with  the  assistance  of  men  on  foot,  are 
able  to  go  in  almost  any  place  a mule  can  go. 

I strolled  a mile  or  two  up  the  San  Carlos,  and  found  the  whole 
distance,  it  has  its  way  in  a narrow  canon,  worn  from  the  solid  ba- 
salt. On  either  side,  in  the  limestone  under  the  basalt  were  im- 
mense cavities,  which  must  have  been  at  times  the  abodes  of  Indians 
and  the  dens  of  beasts.  The  remains  of  fire  and  the  bones  of  ani- 
mals attested  this.  Near  its  mouth  we  found  the  foundation  of  a 
rectangular  house,  and  on  a mound  adjacent  that  of  a circular  build- 
ing, a few  feet  in  diameter.  The  ruin  was  probably  that  of  a shep- 
herd’s house,  with  a circular  building  adjoining  as  a look-out,  as 
there  was  no  ground  in  the  neighborhood  which  was  suited  for  irri- 
gation. Both  these  ruins  were  of  round  unhewn  stones,  and  the 
first  was  surrounded  by  pieces  of  broken  pottery.  Digging  a few 
feet  brought  us  to  a solid  mass  which  was  most  likely  a dirt  floor, 
such  as  is  now  used  by  the  Spaniards. 

In  my  walk  I encountered  a settlement  of  tarantulas;  as  I ap- 
proached, four  or  five  rushed  to  the  front  of  their  little  caves  in  an 


67 


m 

attitude  of  defence.  I threw  a pebble  at  them,  and  it  would  be 
hard  to  imagine,  concentrated  in  so  small  a space,  so  much  expres- 
sion of  defiance,  rage,  and  ability  to  do  mischief,  as  the  tarantula 
presents. 

Our  camp  was  near  an  old  Apache  camp.  The  carcasses  of  cattle 
in  every  direction  betokened  it  to  have  been  the  scene  of  a festival 
after  one  of  their  forays  into  the  Spanish  territory. 

The  Gila  at  this  place  is  much  swollen  by  the  affluence  of  the. 
three  streams  just  mentioned,  and  its  cross  section  here  is  about  70 
feet  by  4.  The  waters  change  their  color,  and  are  slightly  tainted 
with  salt;  indeed,  just  below  our  camp  there  came  from  the  side  of 
an.  impending  mountain,  a spring  so  highly  charged  with  salt  as  to 
be  altogether  unpalatable.  Several  exquisite  ferns  were  plucked  at 
the  spring,  and  a new  green-barked  acacia,  covering  the  plains 
above  the  river  bed,  but  vegetation  generally  was  very  scarce;  this 
is  the  first  camp  since  leaving  the  Del  Norte,  in  which  we  have  not 
had  good  grass. 

At. 84.  40?ti.,  a meteor  of  surpassing  splendor  started  under  con- 
stellation lyra,  about  20  degrees  above  the  horizon,  and  went  off 
towards  the  south,  projected  against  a black  cloud. 

The  clouds  interfered  with  my  observations;  but  such  as  they 
were,  12  altitudes  of  polaris,  9 of  alpha  andromedse,  and  9 of  alpha 
lyrse,  and  16  distances  between  the  D and  alpha  pegasi,  gave  the 
latitude  of  the  camp  32°  53'  16",  and  the  longitude  109°  31'  34". 

October  28. — One  or  two  miles5  ride,  and  we  were  clear  of  the 
Black  mountains,  and  again  m /he  valley  of  the  Gila,  which  wi- 
dened out  gradually  to  the  base  of  Mount  Graham,  abreast  of  which 
we  encamped.  Almost  for  the  whole  distance,  twenty  miles,  were 
found  at  intervals  the  remains  of  houses  like  those  before  described. 
Just  before  reaching  the  base  of  Mount  Graham,  a wide  valley, 
smooth  and  level,  comes  in  from  the  south-east.  Up  this  valley  are 
trails  leading  to  San  Bernadino,  Fronteras  and  Tucsoon.  Here  also 
the  trail  by  the  Ojo  Cavallo  comes  in  turning  the  southern  abut- 
ments of  the  Black  mountains,  along  which  Capt.  Cook  is  to  come 
with  his  wagons. 

At  the  junction  of  this  valley  with  the  Gila  are  the  ruins  of  a 
large  settlement.  I found  traces  of  a circular  wall  270  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. Here  also  was  one  circular  enclosure  of  400  yards. 
This  must  have  been  for  defence.  In  one  segment  was  a trian- 
gular shaped  indenture,  which  we  supposed  to  be  a well.  Large 
mezquite  now  grow  in  it,  attesting  its  antiquity.  Most  of  the 
houses  are  rectangular,  varying  from  20  to  100  feet  front;  many  were 
of  the  form  of  the  present  Spanish  houses,  thus: 

CO  U ET 

U i's=ss nnnBl»mmaBiS3SE>3aBS3^acsaSaS£:;t1E£ 


Red  cedar  posts  were  found  in  many  places,  which  seemed  to< 
detract  from  their  antiquity,  but  for  the  peculiarity  of  this  climate, 
where  vegetable  matter  seems  never  to  decay.  In  vain  did  we 
search  for  some  remnant  which  would  enable  us  to  connect  the  in- 
habitants of  these  long  deserted  buildings  with  other  races.  No 
mark  of  an  edge  tool  could  be  found,  and  no  remnant  of  any  house- 
hold or  family  utensils,  except  the  fragments  of  pottery  which 
were  every  where  strewed  on  the  plain,  and  the  rude  corn  grinder 
still  used  by  the  Indians.  So  great  was  the  quantity  of  this  pot- 
tery, and  the  extent  of  ground  covered  by  it,  that  I have  formed 
the  idea  it  must  have  been  used  for  pipes  to  convey  water.  There 
were  about  the  ruins  quantities  of  the  fragments  of  agate  and  obsi- 
dian, the  stone  described  by  Prescott  as  that  used  by  the  Aztecs  to 
cut  out  the  hearts  of  their  victims.  This  valley  was  evidently 
once  the  abode  of  busy,  hard-working,  people.  Who  were  they! 
And  where  have  they  gone!  Tradition  among  the  Indians  and 
Spaniards  does  not  reach  them. 

I do  not  think  it  improbable  that  these  ruins  may  be  those  of 
comparatively  modern  Indians,*'  for  Yenegas  says:  u The  father 
Jacob  Sedelmayer,  in  October,  1744,  set  out  from  his  mission,  (Tu- 
butuma,)  and,  after  travelling  80  leagues,  reached  the  Gila,  where 
he  found  six  thousand  Papagos,  and  near  the  same  number  of  Pimos 
and  Coco  Maricopas;”  and  the  map  which  he  gives  of  this  country, 
although  very  incorrect,  represents  many  Indian  settlements  and 
missions  on  this  river.  His  observations,  however,  were  confined 
to  that  part  of  the  Gila  river  near  its  mouth. 

Great  quantities  of  green-barked  acacia  on  the  table  lands,  and 
also  the  chamiza,  wild  sage  and  mezquite;  close  to  the  river,  cot- 
ton wood  and  willow.  We  found,  too,  amongst  many  other  plants, 
the  eriodictyon  Californicum,  several  new  grasses,  and  a sedge, 
very  few  of  which  have  been  seen  on  our  journey. 

We  saw  the  trail  of  cannon  up  the  valley  very  distinct;  that  of 
an  expedition  from  Sonora  against  the  Indians,  which  was  made  a 
few  years  since,  without  achieving  any  results. 

Wherever  the  river  made  incisions,  was  discoverable  a mela- 
morphic,  close  grained,  laminated  sandstone,  and  in  many  places 
were  seen  buttes  of  vitrified  quartz,  (semi-opal.) 

October  29. — -The  dust  was  knee  deep  in  the  *rear  of  our  trail; 
the  soil  appeared  good,  but,  for  whole  acres,  not  the  sign  of  vege- 
tation was  to  be  seen.  Grass  was  at  long  intervals,  and,  when 
found,  burned  to  cinder.  A subterraneous  stream  flowed  at  the 
foot  of  Mount  Graham,  and  fringed  its  base  with  evergreen.  Every 
where  there  were  marks  of  flowing  water,  yet  vegetation  was  so 
scarce  and  crisp  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a drop  of  water 
had  fallen  since  last  winter.  The  whole  plain,  from  3 to  6 miles 
wide,  is  within  the  level  of  the  waters  of  therGila,  and  might  easily 
be  irrigated,  as  it  no  doubt  was  by  the  former  tenants  of  these 
ruined  houses. 


* Since  these  notes  were  written,  a very  interesting  letter  was  received  from  the  venera- 
ble Mr.  Gallatin  connected  with  the  history  of  these  ruins.  The  letter,  with  my  reply,  will 
be  found  in  the  Appendix. 


69 


m 

The  crimson  tinted  Sierra  Carlos  skirted  the  river  on  the  north 
side  the  whole  day,  and  its  changing  profiles  formed  subjects  of 
study  and  amusement.  Sometimes  we  could  trace  a Gothic  steeple; 
then  a horse;  now  an  old  woman’s  face;  and,  again,  a veritable 
steamboat;  but  this  required  the  assistance  of  a light  smoky  cloud, 
drifting  to  the  east,  over  what  represented  the  chimney  stack. 
Wherever  the  river  abraded  its  banks,  was  seen,  in  horizontal 
strata,  a yellowish  argillaceous  limestone. 

October  30. — Mount  Turnbull,  terminating  in  a sharp  cone,  had 
been  in  view  down  the  valley  of  the  river  for  three  days.  To-day 
about  three  o’clock,  p.  m.,  we  turned  its  base  forming  the  northern 
terminus  of  the  same  chain,  in  which  is  Mt.  Graham. 

Half  a mile  from  our  camp  of  last  night  was  another  very  large 
ruin  which  appeared,  as  well  as  I could  judge,  (my  view  being  ob- 
structed by  the  thick  growth  of  mezquite,)  to  have  been  the  abode 
of  five  or  ten  thousand  souls.  The  outline  of  the  buildings  and  the 
pottery  presented  no  essential  difference  from  those  already  de- 
scribed. But  about  eleven  miles  from  the  camp,  on  a knoll,  over- 
looked in  a measure  by  a tongue  of  land,  I found  the  trace  of  a 
solitary  house,  somewhat  resembling  that  of  a field  work  en  cremal- 
liere.  The  enclosure  was  complete,  and  the  faces  varied  from 
ten  to  thirty  feet.  The  accompanying  cut  will  give  a more 
accurate  idea  than  words. 


Clouds  had  been  seen  hovering  over  the  head  of  Mount  Turnbull; 
and  as  we  passed,  the  beds  of  the  arroyos  leading  from  it  were 
found  to  be  damp,  showing  the  marks  of  recent  running  water. 

Last  evening  about  dusk,  one  of  my  men  discovered  a drove  of 
wild  hogs,  and  this  morning  we  started  on  their  trail,  but  horse 
flesh  had  now  become  so  precious  that  we  could  not  afford  to  fol- 
low any  distance  from  our  direction,  and  although  anxious  to  get  a 
genuine  specimen  of  this  animal,  we  gave  up  the  chase  and  dropped 
in  the  rear  of  the  column.  The  average  weight  of  these  animals  is 
about  100  pounds,  and  their  color  invariably  light  pepper  and  salt. 
Their  flesh  is  said  to  be  palatable,  if  the  musk  which  lies  near  the 
back  part  of  the  spine  is  carefully  removed. 


70 


m 

Many  Afresh  signs”  of  Indians  were  seen,  but,  as  on  previous 
days,  we  could  not  catch  a glimpse  of  them.  They  carefully  avoid- 
ed us.  This  evening,  however,  as  Robideaux  unarmed  was  riding 
in  advance,  he  emerged  suddenly  from  a cavity  in  the  ground,  thickly 
masqued  by  mezquite.  He  had  discovered  two  Indians  on  horse 
back  within  twenty  yards  of  him.  The  interview  was  awkward  to 
both  parties,  but  Robideaux  wTas  soon  relieved  by  the  arrival  of  the 
head  of  our  column.  The  Indians  were  thrown  into  the  greatest 
consternation;  they  were  tolerably  mounted,  but  escape  was  hope- 
less. Two  more  miserable  looking  objects  I never  beheld;  their 
legs,  (unlike  the  Apaches  we  left  behind)  were  large  and  muscular* 
but  their  faces  and  bodies  (for  they  were  naked,)  were  one  mass  of 
wrinkles,  almost  approaching  to  scales.  They  wTere  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows,  and  one  with  a quiver  of  fresh  cut  reeds. 
Neither  could  speak  Spanish,  and  the  communication  wras  by  signs. 
They  were  directed  to  go  with  us  to  camp,  where  they  would  re- 
ceive food  and  clothing;  but  they  resolutely  refused,  evidently 
thinking  certain  death  awaited  them,  and  that  it  would  be  prefer- 
able to  meet  it  then  than  suffer  suspense.  The  chief  person  talked 
all  the  time  in  a tongue  resembling  more  the  bark  of  a mastiff,  than 
the  words  of  a human  being.  Our  anxiety  to  communicate  to  the 
tribe  our  friendly  feeling,  and  more  especially  our  desire  to  pur- 
chase mules,  was  very  great;  but  they  were  firm  in  their  purpose 
not  to  follow,  and  much  to  their  surprise,  (they  seemed  incapable 
of  expressing  joy,)  we  left  them  and  their  horses  untouched. 

They  were  supposed  by  some  to  be  the  Cayotes,  a branch  of  the 
Apaches,  but  Londeau  thought  they  belonged  to  the  tribe  of  Trem- 
blers, who  acquired  their  name  from  their  emotions  at  meeting  the 
whites. 

Observed  to-night  12  altitudes  of  polaris  for  latitude,  and  mea- 
sured 9 lunar  distances  for  longitude. 

Lat.  33°  12'  10".  Long.  110°  20'  46". 

October  31. — To-day  we  were  doomed  to  another  sad  disap- 
pointment. Reaching  the  San  'Francisco  about  noon,  we  unsaddled 
to  refresh  our  horses  and  allow  time  to  look  up  a trail  by  which 
we  could  pass  the  formidable  range  of  mountains  through  which 
the  Gila  cut  it s way,  making  a deep  canon  impassable  for  the  howit- 
zers. A yell  on  the  top  of  a distant  hill  announced  the  presence 
of  three  well  mounted  Indians,  and  persons  were  sent  out  to  bring 
them  in.  Our  mules  were  now  fast  failing,  and  the  road  before  us 
unknown.  These  Indians,  if  willing,  could  supply  us  with  mules 
and  show  us  the  road.  Our  anxiety  to  see  the  result  of  the  inter- 
view was,  consequently,  very  great.  It  was  amusing,  and  at  the 
same  time  very  provoking.  They  would  allow  but  one  of  our  party 
to  approach.  Long  was  the  talk  by  signs  and  gestures;  at  length 
they  consented  to  come  into  camp,  and  moved  forward  about  a hun- 
dred yards,  when  a new  apprehension  seemed  to  seize  them,  and 
they  stopped.  They  said,  as  well  as  could  be  understood,  that  the 
two  old  men  we  met  yesterday  had  informed  their  chief  of  our  pre- 
sence, and  wish  to  obtain  mules;  that  he  was  on  his  way  with  some, 
and  had  sent  them  ahead  to  sound  a parley.  They  were  better 


looking,  and  infinitely  better  conditioned,  than  those  we  met  yes- 
terday, resembling  strongly  the  Apaches  of  the  copper  mines,  and 
like  them  decked  in  the  plundered  garb  of  the  Mexicans. 

The  day  passed,  but  no  Indians  came;  treacherous  themselves, 
they  expect  treachery  in  others.  At  everlasting  war  with  the  rest 
of  mankind,  they  kill  at  sight  all  who  fall  in  their  power.  The 
conduct  of  the  Mexicans  to  them  is  equally  bad,  for  they  decoy 
and  kill  the  Apaches  whenever  they  can.  The  former  Governor  of 
Sonora  employed  a bold  and  intrepid  Irishman,  named  Kirker,  to 
hunt  the  Apaches  He  had  in  his  employment  wThites  and  Delaware 
Indians,  and  was  allowed,  besides  a per  diem,  $100  per  scalp,  and 
$25  for  a prisoner.  A story  is  also  told  of  one  Johnson,  an  Eng- 
lishman, an  Apache  trader,  who,  allured  by  the  reward,  induced  a 
number  of  these  people  to  come  to  his  camp,  and  placed  a barrel 
of  flour  for  them  to  help  themselves;  when  the  crowTd  was  thickest 
of  men,  women,  and  children,  he  fired  a six  pounder  amongst  them 
from  a concealed  place  and  killed  great  numbers. 

13  circum-meridian  altitudes  of  beta  aquarii,  and  10  altitudes  of 
polaris  give  the  latitude  of  this  camp  33°  IT  29".  The  longitude 
by  12  lunar  distances  E.  and  W.  is  110°  30'  24". 

November  1. — No  alternative  seemed  to  offer  but  to  pursue  Car- 
son’s  old  trail  sixty  miles  over  a rough  country,  without  water, 
and  two,  if  not  three  days’  journey.  Under  this,  in  their  shattered 
condition,  our  mules  must  sink.  We  followed  the  Gila  river  six  or 
seven  miles,  when  it  became  necessary  to  leave  it,  how  long 
was  uncertain.  Giving  our  animals  a bite  of  the  luxurious  grama 
on  the  river  banks,  we  filled  every  vessel  capable  of  holding^ water, 
and  commenced  the  jornada.  The  ascent  was  very  rapid,  the  hills 
steep,  and  the  footing  insecure.  After  travelling  five  or  six  miles, 
ascending  all  the  way,  we  found  trails  from  various  directions  con- 
verging in  front  of  us,  evidently  leading  to  a village  or  a spring;  it 
proved  to  be  the  last.  The  spring  consisted  of  a few  deep  holes,  filled 
with  delicious  wTater,  overgrown  with  cotton  wood;  and,  although 
the  grass  was  not  good,  wTe  determined  to  halt  for  the  night,  as  the 
howdtzers  were  not  yet  up,  and  it  was  doubtful  when  we  should 
meet  with  water  again.  I took  advantage  of  the  early  halt  to  as- 
cend, with  the  barometer,  a very  high  peak  overhanging  the  camp, 
which  I took  to  be  the  loftiest  in  the  Piiion  Lano  range  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Gila. 

Its  approximate  height  was  only  5,724  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
view  was  very  extensive;  rugged  mountains  bounded  the  entire 
horizon.  Very  far  to  the  northeast  was  a chain  of  mountains 
covered  with  snow,  but  I could  not  decide  whether  it  was  the  range 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Del  Norte  or  the  Sierras  Mimbres.  Near  the 
top  of  this  peak  the  mezcal  grew  in  abundance,  and  with  the  stalk 
of  one  25  feet  long  we  erected  a flag-staff.  Here  too  we  found 
huge  masses  of  the  conglomerate  before  described,  apparently  as 
if  it  had  been  arrested  in  rolling  from  an  impending  height,  but 
there  was  no  point  higher  than  this  for  many  miles,  and  the  inter- 
vening ravines  were  deep.  Lower  down  we  found  a large  mass  of 
many  thousand  tons  of  the  finer  conglomerate,  the  shape  of  a trun- 


72 


[7] 

cated  pyramid  standing  on  its  smallest  base.  It  appeared  so  nicely 
balanced,  a feather  might  have  overthrown  it.  A vrell  levelled  seat 
of  large  slabs  of  red  ferruginous  sand-stone  altered  by  heat  indi- 
cated we  were  not  on  untrodden  ground.  It  was  the  watch-tower 
of  the  Apache;  from  it  he  could  track  the  valley  of  the  Gila  beyond 
the  base  of  Mount  Graham. 

At  the  point  where  we  left  the  Gila,  there  stands  a cactus  six 
feet  in  circumference,  and  so  high  I could  not  reach  half  way  to 
the  top  of  it  with  the  point  of  my  sabre  by  many  feet;  and  a short 
distance  up  the  ravine  is  a grove  of  these  or  pitahaya,  much  larger 
than  the  one  I measured,  and  with  large  branches.  These  plants 
bear  a saccharine  fruit  much  prized  by  the  Indians  and  Mexicans. 
u They  are  without  leaves,  the  fruit  growing  to  the  boughs.  The 
fruit  resembles  the  burr  of  a chesnut  and  is  full  of  prickles,  but  the 
pulp  resembles  that  of  the  fig,  only  more  soft  and  luscious.”  In 
some  it  is  white,  in  some  red,  and  in  others  yellow,  but  always  of 
exquisite  taste. 

A new  shrub  bearing  a delicious  nutritious  nut  and  in  sufficient 
abundance  to  form  an  article  of  food  for  the  Apaches.  Mezcal  and 
the  fruit  of  the  agave  Americana,  and  for  the  first  time  arctosta- 
phylos  pungens.  Two  or  three  new  shrubs  and  flowers. 

The  formation  near  the  mouth  of  the  San  Francisco  is  diluvion, 
overlaying  a coarse  grained  highly  calcareous  sand-stone  and  lime- 
stone. The  mountains  were  chiefly  of  granite  with  red  feldspar, 
and  near  our  camp  was  discernible  a stratum  of  very  compact  argil- 
laceous^lime-stone,  dipping  nearly  vertically  to  the  west. 

November  2. — The  call  to  water  sounded  long  before  day-light, 
and  we  ate  breakfast  by  the  light  of  the  moon;  the  thermometer  at 
25°.  As  day  dawned  we  looked  anxiously  for  the  howitzers,  which 
were  beginning  to  impede  our  progress  very  much.  My  camp  was 
pitched  on  the  opposite  side  of  a ravine  some  distance  apart  from 
the  main  camp,  the  horses  were  grazing  on  the  hill  side  still  beyond 
and  out  of  sight.  We  were  quietly  waiting  for  further  orders,  when 
our  two  Mexican  herdsmen  came  running  into  camp  much  alarmed 
and  without  their  arms,  exclaiming:  u The  Indians  are  driving  off 
the  mules.  u To  arms”  was  shouted,  and  before  I could  loosen  a 
pistol  from  tKe  holster  my  little  party  were  in  full  run  to  the  scene 
of  alarm,  each  with  his  rifle.  On  turning  the  hill  we  found  the 
horses  tranquilly  grazing,  but  the  hill  overlooking  them  was  lined 
with  horsemen.  As  we  advanced,  one  of  the  number  hailed  us  in 
Spanish,  saying  he  wished  to  have  u a talk.” 

They  were  Apaches,  and  it  had  been  for  some  time  our  earnest 
desire  to  trade  with  them,  and  hitherto  we  had  been  unsuccessful. 
u One  of  you  put  down  your  rifle  and  come  to  us,”  said  the  Span- 
ish-tongued  Indian.  Londeau,  my  employe  before-mentioned,  im- 
mediately complied,  I followed;  but  before  reaching  half-way  up 
the  steep  hill,  the  Indian  espied  in  my  jacket  the  handle  of  a large 
horse  pistol.  He  told  me  I must  put  down  my  pistol  before  he 
would  meet  me.  I threw  it  aside  and  proceeded  to  the  top  of  the 
hill,  where,  although  he  was  mounted  and  surrounded  by  six  or 
eight  of  his  own  men  armed  with  rifles  and  arrows,  he  received  me 


The  fire  place  Rock 


Cereus  Giganteus 

->i ui.'j  lul.  Appendix.  1.  Continued 


: 

i 

I 

■ 


with  great  agitation.  The  talk  was  long  and  tedious.  I exhausted 
every  argument  to  induce  him  to  come  into  camp.  His  principal 
fear  seemed  to  be  the  howitzers,  which  recalled  at  once  to  my  mind 
the  story  I had  heard  of  the  massacre  by  Johnson.  At  last  a bold 
young  fellow  tired  of  the  parley  threw  down  his  rifle,  and  with  a 
step  that  Forrest  in  Me  tarn  ora  might  have  envied,  strode  off  to- 
wards camp,  piloted  by  Carson.  We  were  about  to  follow  when 
the  chief  informed  us  it  would  be  more  agreeable  to  him  if  we  re- 
mained until  his  warrior  returned. 

The  ice  was  now  broken,  most  of  them  seeing  that  their  comrade 
encountered  no  danger,  followed  one  by  one.  They  said  they  be- 
longed to  the  tribe  of  Pinon  Lanos;  that  u they  were  simple  in 
head,  but  true  of  heart.”  Presents  were  distributed;  they  promised 
a guide  to  pilot  us  over  the  mountain,  five  miles  distant,  to  a spring 
with  plenty  of  good  grass,  where  they  engaged  to  meet  us  next 
day  with  100  mules. 

The  mezcal  flourishes  here;  and  at  intervals  of  a half  a mile  or 
so  we  found  several  artificial  craters,  into  which  the  Indians  throw 
this  fruit,  with,  heated  stones,  to  remove  the  sharp  thorns  and  re- 
duce it  to  its  saccharine  state. 

Observed  last  night  for  latitude  and  time,  and  our  position  is  in 
latitude  33°  14'  54",  longitude  110°  45'  06".  Our  camp  was  on  the 
the  head  of  a creek  which,  after  running  in  a faint  stream  one  hun- 
dred yards,  disappeared  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  On  its 
margin  grew  a species  of  ash  unknown  in  the  United  States,  and 
the  California  plane  tree,  which  is  also  distinct  in  species  from  our 
sycamore. 


November  3. — Our  expectations  were  again  disappointed,  the  In- 
dians came,  but  only  seven  mules  were  the  result  of  the  days’  la- 
bor, not  a tenth  of  the  number  absolutely  required. 

Our  visiters  to-day  presented  the  same  motley  group  we  have 
always  found  the  Apaches.  Amongst  them  was  a middle-aged  wo- 
man, whose  garrulity  and  interference  in  every  trade  was  the  an- 
noyance of  Major  Swords,  who  had  charge  of  the  trading,  but  the 
amusement  of  the  by-standers.  * 

She  had  on  a gauze-like  dress,  trimmed  with  the  richest  and  most 
costly  Brussels  lace,  pillaged  no  doubt  from  some  fandango-going 
belle  of  Sonora;  she  straddled  a fine  grey  horse,  and  whenever  her 
blanket  dropped  from  her  shoulders,  her  tawny  form  could  be  seen 
through  the  transparent  gauze.  After  she  had  sold  her  mule,  she 
was  anxious  to  sell  her  horse,  and  careered  about  to  show  his  quali- 
ties. At  one  time  she  charged  at  full  speed  up  a steep  hill.  In  this, 
the  fastenings  of  her  dress  broke,  and  her  bare  back  was  exposed  to 
the  crowd,  who  ungallantly  raised  a shout  of  laughter.  Nothing 
daunted,  she  wheeled  short  round  with  surprising  dexterity,  and 
seeing  the  mischief  done,  coolly  slipped  the  dress  from  her  arms 
and  tucked  it  between  her  seat  and  the  saddle.  In  this  state  of 
nudity  she  rode  through  camp,  from  fire  to  fire,  until,  at  last,  at- 
taining the  object  of  her  ambition,  a soldier’s  red  flannel  shirt,  she 
made  her  adieu  in  that  new  costume. 

A boy  about  12  years  of  age,  of  uncommon  beauty,  was  among 


74 


[?] 

our  visiters.  Happy,  cheerful,  and  contented,  he  was  consulted  j 
in  every  trade,  and  seemed  an  idol  with  the  Apaches.  It  required 
little  penetration  to  trace  his  origin  from  the  same  land  as  the 
gauze  of  the  old  woman.  We  tried  to  purchase  him,  but  he  said 
it  was  long , long , since  he  was  captured,  and  that  he  had  no  desire 
to  leave  his  master  who,  he  was  certain,  would  not  sell  him  for 
any  money.  All  attempts  were  vain,  and  the  lad  seemed  gratified 
both  at  the  offer  to  purchase,  and  the  refusal  to  sell.  Here  we 
found  the  mountains  chiefly  of  red  ferruginous  sandstone,  altered 
by  heat. 

November  4. — Six  miles  from  our  camp  of  last  night  w^e  reached 
a summit,  and  then  commenced  descending  again  rapidly  towards 
the  Gila,  along  a deeply  cartoned  valley,  the  sands  of  which  were  black 
with  particles  of  oxide  and  peroxide  of  iron.  Near  the  summit, 
the  hills  on  each  side  were  of  old  red  sandstone,  with  strata  slo- 
ping to  the  southwest  at  an  agle  of  25°,  and  under  this  were  strata 
of  black  slate  and  compact  limestone,  and  then  granite. 

In  the  ravines  we  found,  at  places,  a luxuriant  growth  of  syca- 
more, ash,  cedar,  pine,  nut-wood,  mezcal,  and  some  walnut,  the 
edible  nut  again,  Adam’s  needle,  small  evergreen  oak  and  cotton- 
wood, and  a gourd  the  cucumis  perennis. 

There  was  every  indication  of  water,  but  none  was  procured  on 
the  surface;  it  could,  no  doubt,  have  been  found  by  digging,  but 
the  Gila  was  only  twenty  miles  distant. 

The  last  six  or  eight  miles  of  our  route  was  down  the  dry  bed  of 
a stream,  in  a course  east  of  ssuth,  and  our  day’s  journey  did  not 
gain  much  in  the  direction  of  California.  It  was  necessary  to  as- 
cend the  river  a mile  in  search  of  grass,  and  then  we  got  but  an 
indifferent  supply.  Except  in  the  two  camps  nearest  to  Mount 
Turnbull,  and  the  one  at  the  San  Carlos,  we  have  never  before, 
since  leaving  Santa  Fe,  had  occasion  to  complain  of  the  want  of 
grass. 

We  encamped  in  a grove  of  cacti  of  all  kinds;  amongst  them 
the  huge  pitahaya,  one  of  which  was  fifty  feet  high. 

Geological  formation  on  this  slope  of  the  Pihon  Lano  Mountains: 
1st.  Conglomerate  of  sandstone  and  pebbles;  then,  red  sandstone 
in  layers  a foot  thick;  then,  granite  very  coarse.  The  depth  of 
the  two  first  was  many  hundred  feet,  and  in  some  places  its  strati- 
fication much  deranged.  Many  large  masses  of  sandstone,  with 
thin  seams  of  vitrified  quartz. 

In  the  dry  creek  down  which  we  travelled,  we  saw  a cave  of 
green  sandstone,  in  which  a fire  had  been  built;  for  what  purpose 
I cannot  conjecture,  as  it  was  too  small  to  admit  a man. 

The  Apaches  gave  us  to  understand  that  a marauding  party  of 
their  people  were  in  Sonora.  The  broad  fresh  trail  of  cattle  and 
horses  leading  up  the  arroyo,  induces  the  belief  that  they  have  re- 
turned— successful,  of  course. 

Last  night  was  mild,  the  thermometer  at  63°  Fahrenheit;  and,, 
what  was  very  unusual  here,  the  heavens  were  overcast,  which  pre- 
vented my  getting  the  rate  of  the  chronometers. 

Although  we  have  had  no  rain  except  at  Mount  Graham,  where  j 


Lith . Tsv  E We b ex  & Co  £ alto . 


75 


[7] 

we  had  a shower  which  scarcely  sufficed  to  lay  the  dust,  yet  the 
whole  face  of  the  country  bears  marks  of  rains,  and  running  water 
met  with  in  no  other  part  of  our  journey.  The  absence  of  vegeta- 
tion will,  in  some  measure,  account  for  the  deep  incisions  made  by 
running  water  in  the  earth. 

November  5. — The  howitzers  did  not  reach  camp  last  night,  yet, 
the  grass  was  so  bad,  and  our  beds,  on  the  round  pebbles  every- 
where covering  the  surface  of  the  ground,  so  uncomfortable,  it  was 
determined  to  move  camp. 

The  Gila  now  presents  an  inhospitable  look;  the  mountains  of 
trap,  granite,  and  red  sandstone,  in  irregular  and  confused  strata, 
but  generally  dipping  sharply  to  the  south,  cluster  close  together; 
and  one  ignorant  of  the  ground  could  not  tell  from  what  direction 
the  river  came,  or  in  what  direction  it  flowed  onwards  to  its  mouth. 
The  valley,  not  more  than  300  feet  from  base  to  base  of  these  per- 
pendicular mountains,  is  deep,  and  wTell  grown  with  willow,  cotton- 
wood, and  mezquite. 

At  several  places,  perpendicular  walls  of  trap  dyke  projected  from 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  giving  the  idea  that  the  river  waters 
had  once  been  dammed  up,  and  then  liberatedby  the  blow  of  a giant; 
for  the  barrier  was  shattered — not  worn  away.  In  the  course  of 
six  miles  we  had  crossed  and  re-crossed  the  river  twice  as  many 
times,  when  we  left  it  by  turning  abruptly  up  a dry  ravine  to  the 
south.  This  we  followed  for  three  miles,  and  crossed  a ridge  at 
the  base  of  Saddle-Back  mountain,  (so  named  from  its  resemblance 
to  the  outline  of  a saddle,)  and  descended  by  another  dry  creek  to 
the  San  Pedro,  running  nearly  north. 

Tne  valley  of  this  river  is  quite  wide,  and  is  covered  with  a 
dense  growth  of  mezquite,  (acacia  prosopis,)  cotton  wood,  and 
willow,  through  which  it  is  hard  to  move  without  being  unhorsed. 
The  whole  appearance  gave  great  promise,  but  a near  approach  ex- 
hibited the  San  Pedro,  an  insignificant  stream  a few  yards  wide, 
and  only  a foot  deep. 

For  six  miles  we  followed  the  Gila.  The  pitahaya  and  every 
other  variety  of  cactus  flourished  in  great  luxuriance.  The  pita- 
haya, tall,  erect,  and  columnar  in  its  appearance,  grew  in  every 
crevice  from  the  base  to  the  top  of  the  mountains,  and  in  one  place 
I saw  it  growing  nearly  to  its  full  dimensions  from  a crevice  not 
much  broader  than  the  back  of  my  sabre.  These  extraordinary 
looking  plants  seem  to  seek  the  wildest  and  most  unfrequented 
places. 

The  range  of  mountains  traversed  to-day  is  the  same  we  have 
been  in  for  some  days,  and  is  a continuation  of  that  of  Mount  Gra- 
ham, which  turns  sharply  westward  from  Turnbull’s  peak,  carrying 
with  it  the  Gila. 

Saddle-Back  is  an  isolated  peak  of  red  sandstone  that  has  every’ 
appearance  of  having  once  formed  the  table  land,  and  being  harder 
than  the  surrounding  surface,  having  withstood  the  abrasion  of 
water. 

The  uplands  covered  as  usual  with  mezquite,  chimaza,  ephydree, 
the  shrub  witli  the  edible  nut,  and  cactus,  of  this  a new  and  beau- 


* 


tiful  variety.  In  the  canon  we  heard  in  advance  of  us  the  crack  of 
a rifle;  on  coming  up  we  found  that  old  Francisco,  one  of  the 
guides,  had  killed  a calf,  left  there,  doubtless,  by  the  Apaches. 

The  dry  creek  by  which  we  crossed  to  the  San  Pedro  river  was 
the  great  highway  leading  from  the  mountain  fastnesses  into  the 
plains  of  Santa  Cruz,  Santa  Anna,  and  Tucsoon,  frontier  towns  of 
Sonora.  Along  this  valley  was  distinctly  marked  the  same  fresh 
trail,  noted  yesterday,  of  horses,  cattle  and  mules. 

The  bed  of  this  creek  was  deeply  cut,  and  turned  at  sharp  angles, 
forming  a zigzag  like  the  bayoux  laid  by  sappers  in  approaching  a 
fortress,  each  turn  of  which  (and  they  were  innumerable)  formed  a 
strong  defensive  position.  The  Apache  once  in  possession  of  them 
is  secure  from  pursuit  or  invasion  from  the  Mexican. 

Since  the  1st  November,  we  have  been  traversing,  with  incredi- 
ble labor  and  great  expenditure  of  mule  power,  the  stronghold  of  j 
these  mountain  robbers,  having  no  other  object  in  view  than  mak-  j 
ing  our  distance  westward;  yet  here  we  are  at  this  camp,  only  five  j 
seconds  of  time  west  of  camp  89,  at  Disappointment  creek,  and  one 
minute  and  four  seconds  west  of  our  camp  at  the  mouth  of  the  San 
Francisco. 

Nature  has  done  her  utmost  to  favor  a condition  of  things  which 
has  enabled  a savage  and  uncivilized  tribe,  armed  with  the  bow  and 
lance,  to  hold  as  tributary  powers  three  fertile  and  once  flourishing 
states,  Chihuahua,  Sonora,  and  Durango,  peopled  by  a Christian 
race,  countrymen  of  the  immortal  Cortez.  These  states  were  at  ! 
one  time  flourishing,  but  such  has  been  the  devastation  and  alarm 
spread  by  these  children  of  the  mountains,  that  they  are  now  losing 
population,  commerce  and  manufactures  at  a rate  which,  if  not  soon  |j 
arrested,  must  leave  them  uninhabited. 

November  6. — For  the  double  purpose  of  allowing  the  howitzers 
to  come  up,  and  to  recruit  our  mules,  it  is  decided  this  shall  be  a 
day  of  rest.  The  grama  is  good,  but  sparsely  scattered  over  the 
hills,  and  it  is  necessary  to  loosen  every  animal  and  let  them  graze 
at  will. 

We  are  yet  500  miles  from  the  nearest  settlement,  and  no  one 
surveying  our  cavalry  at  this  moment  would  form  notions  favorable 
to  the  success  of  the  expedition. 

Except  a few  saddle  mules,  the  private  property  of  officers,  which 
have  been  allowed  to  run  loose,  every  animal  in  camp  is  covered 
with  patches,  scars,  and  sores,  made  by  the  packs  in  the  unequal 
motion  caused  by  the  ascent  and  descent  of  steep  hills. 

The  failure  of  the  Apaches  to  bring  in  theic  mules,  was  a serious 
disappointment,  and  entirely  justifies  the  name  given  to  the  creek, 
where  they  agreed  to  meet  us.  Besides,  being  the  only  means  of 
transportation,  they  are,  in  extremity,  to  serve  us  as  food,  and  the 
poor  suffering  creatures  before  us,  give  no  very  agreeable  impres 
sion  of  the  soup  which  their  meat  will  furnish.  However  grave  the 
subject  may  appear,  it  is  the  common  source  of  merriment.  All 
seem  to  anticipate  it  as  a matter  of  course,  and  the  constant  recur- 
rence of  the  mind  to  the  idea,  will  no  doubt  accustom  us  to  it,  and 
make  mule  as  acceptable  as  other  soup. 


fil 


|« 


Group  of  Hants  exhibiting  the  Ye gitati on  on  the  Gila 

Xith . "by  E ."Weber  & Co . B alto . 


77 


[7] 

In  the  sandy  arroyos  where  our  fires  burn,  that  look  as  if  they 
had  been  formed  but  a year  or  two  since,  was  broken  pottery,  and 
the  remains  of  a large  building,  similar  in  form,  substance,  and  ap- 
parent antiquity  to  those  so  often  described.  Strolling  over  the 
hills  alone,  in  pursuit  of  seed  and  geological  specimens,  my  thoughts 
went  back  to  the  States,  and  when  I turned  from  my  momentary 
aberrations,  I was  struck  most  forcibly  wTith  the  fact  that  not  one 
object  in  the  whole  view,  animal,  vegetable,  or  mineral,  had  any 
thing  in  common  with  the  products  of  any  State  in  the  Union,  with 
the  single  exception  of  the  cotton  wood,  which  is  found  in  the  wes- 
tern States,  and  seems  to  grow  wherever  water  flows  from  the  ver- 
tebral range  of  mountains  of  North  America;  this  tree  we  found 
growing  near  the  summit  of  the  Pinon  Lano  range  of  mountains,  in- 
deed, always  where  a ravine  had  its  origin. 

In  one  view  could  be  seen  clustered,  the  larrea  Mexicana,  the 
cactus,  (king)  cactus,  (chandelier)  green  wood  acacia,  chamiza, 
prosopis  odorata,  and  a new  variety  of  sedge,  and  then  large  open 
spaces  of  bare  gravel. 

The  only  animals  seen  were  lizzards,  scorpions,  and  tarantulas. 

I made  elaborate  observations  for  time  and  latitude,  and  for  longi- 
tude by  measurement,  of  lunar  distances.  Anxious  to  observe  eclip- 
ses of  Jupiter’s  satellites,  I determined  once  more  to  try  the  small 
telescope  wflth  which  the  satellites  of  Jupiter  could  just  be  discerned. 
I strained  my  eyes  for  two  nights  in  succession  to  see  if  I could 
discover  the  moment  of  immersion  and  emersion  of  I and  III  satel- 
lites of  Jupiter,  which  were  visible  from  our  camp.  My  efforts 
were  fruitless,  and  the  result  to  myself  is  a distressing  nervous  af- 
fection of  the  eye,  which  may  injure  the  correctness  of  my  other 
observations  of  this  night. 

The  resulting  latitude  of  the  place  is  32°  57'  43;/. 

longitude  u . u 74.  23 m.  19s*. 

Rate  of  chronometer  2075,  losing  12/;  7 s.  per  day. 

The  height  by  barometer  2115  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  latitude  was  deduced  from  13  circum-meridian  altitudes  of  be- 
ta aquarii,  and  12  altitudes  of  polaris.  The  longitude  from  8 dis- 
tances between  alpha  arietisand  the  D , 9 of  regulus  and  the  D,  and 
5 of  aldebaran  and  the  D . 

November  7. — About  two  miles  from  our  camp  the  San  Pedro 
joins  the  Gila  just  as  the  latter  leaps  from  the  mouth  of  the  canon. 
The  place  of  meeting  is  a bottom  three  miles  wide,  seeming  a con- 
tinuation of  that  of  the  Gila. 

It  is  principally  of  deep  dust  and  sand,  overgrown  with  cotton 
wood,  mezquite,  chamiza,  willowr,  and  the  black  willow.  In  places 
there  are  long  sweeps  of  large  paving  pebbles,  filled  up  with  drift 
wood,  giving  the  appearance  of  having  been  overflowed  by  an  im- 
petuous torrent.  The  hills  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  still  high, 
but  now  farther  off,  and  covered  to  the  top  with  soil  producing  the 
mezquite  and  pitahaya,  as  the  day  advanced,  began  to  draw  in  closer, 
and  before  it  closed,  had  again  contracted  the  valley  to  a space 
kittle  more  than  sufficient  for  the  river  to  pass;  and  at  halt,  after 


making  seventeen  miles,  we  found  ourselves  encompassed  by  hills 
much  diminished  in  height,  but  not  in  abruptness.  The  road,  ex- 
cept the  deep  dust  which  occasionally  gave  way  and  lowered  a 
mule  to  his  knee,  was  good,  that  is,  there  were  no  hills  to  scale. 
The  river  was  crossed  and  re-crossed  four  times.  At  12  and  14 
miles  there  were  good  patches  of  grama,  burned  quite  yellow,  but 
for  most  of  the  way,  and  at  our  camp,  there  was  little  or  no  grass, 
and  our  mules  were  turned  loose  to  pick  what  they  could  of  rushes 
and  willow  along  the  margin  of  the  stream. 

Wherever  the  formation  was  exposed  along  the  river,  it  was  a 
conglomerate  of  sandstone,  lime  and  pebbles,  with  deep  caverns. 

Nearly  opposite  our  camp  of  this  date,  and  about  one-third  the 
distance  up  the  hill,  there  crops  out  ore  of  copper  and  iron,  easily 
worked,  the  carbonate  of  lime  and  calcareous  spar.  A continuation 
of  the  vein  of  ore  was  found  on  the  side  where  we  encamped,  and 
a large  knoll  strewed  with  what  the  Spaniards  call  guia,  the  Eng- 
lish of  which  is  “guide  to  gold.” 

The  night  has  set  in  dark  and  stormy;  the  wind  blows  in  gusts 
from  the  southwest,  and  the  rain  falling  in  good  earnest,  mingled 
with  the  rustling  noise  of  the  Gila,  which  has  now  become  swift 
and  impetuous,  produces  on  us,  who  have  so  long  been  accustomed 
to  a tranquil  atmosphere,  quite  the  impress  of  a tempest.  We  have 
b^en  so  long  without  rain  as  to  cease  to  expect  or  make  provision 
against  it,  and  the  consequence  is  the  greatest  difficulty  in  getting 
the  men  to  provide  coverings  for  the  destructible  portion  of  our 
rations. 

Three  Indians  hailed  us  just  before  making  camp,  and  after  much 
parley  were  brought  in.  They  feasted  heartily,  and  promised  to 
bring  in  mules.  At  first  they  denied  having  any;  but  after  their  ap- 
petites were  satisfied,  their  hearts  opened,  and  they  sent  the  young- 
est of  their  party  to  their  town,  which  was  at  the  head  of  the 
dry  creek  of  our  camp,  of  the  night  before  last.  The  fellow  went 
on  his  way,  as  directed,  till  he  met  the  howitzers,  which  so  filled 
him  with  surprise  and  consternation  that  he  forgot  his  mission, 
and  followed  the  guns  to  camp  in  mute  wonder.  These  people 
are  of  the  Pinon  Lano  (pinon  wood)  tribe,  and  we  had  been  told 
by  the  Pinoleros  (pinole  eaters)  that  the  chief  of  this  band  had 
mules. 

Flights  of  geese  and  myriads  of  the  blue  quail,  and  a flock  of 
turkies,  from  which  we  got  one. 

The  river  bed,  at  the  junction  of  the  San  Pedro,  was  seamed  with 
tracks  of  deer  and  turkey;  some  signs  of  beaver  and  one  trail  of 
wild  hogs. 

Our  camp  was  on  a flat,  sandy  plain,  of  small  extent,  at  the  mouth 
of  a dry  creek,  with  deep  washed  banks,  giving  the  appearance  of 
containing  at  times  a rapid  and  powerful  stream,  although  no  water 
was  visible  in  the  bed.  At  the  junction,  a clear,  pure  stream  flowed 
from  under  the  sand.  From  the  many  indications  of  gold  and  cop- 
per ore  at  this  place,  I have  named  it  Mineral  creek;  and,  I doubt# 
not,  a few  years  will  see  flat-boats  descending  the  river  from  this 
point  to  its  mouth,  freighted  with  its  precious  ores. 


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There  was  a great  deal  of  pottery  about  our  camp,  and  just  above 
us  were  the  supposed  remains  of  a large  Indian  settlement,  differing 
very  slightly  from  those  already  described. 

November  8.— The  whole  day’s  journey  was  through  a canon,  and 
the  river  was  crossed  twelve  or  fifteen  times.  The  sand  was  dee]p, 
and  occasionally  the  trail  much  obstructed  by  pebbles  of  paving- 
stone.  The  willow  grew  so  densely  in  many  places  as  to  stop  our 
progress,  and  oblige  us  to  look  for  spots  less  thickly  overgrown, 
through  which  we  could  break. 

The  precipices  on  each  sidewere  steep;  the  rock  was  mostly  gra- 
nite and  a compact  sandy  limestone,  with  occasional  seams  of  ba- 
salt and  trap;  and  towards  the  end  of  the  day,  calcareous  sand 
stone,  and  a conglomerate  of  sandstone,  feldspar,  fragments  of  ba- 
salt, pebbles,  &c.  The  stratification  was  very  confused  and  irreg- 
ular, sometimes  perfectly  vertical  but  mostly  dipping  to  the  south- 
west, at  an  angle  of  30°.  Vast  boulders  of  pure  quartz;  the  river, 
in  places,  was  paved  with  them. 

About  two  miles  from  camp,  our  course  was  traversed  by  a seam 
of  yellowish  colored  igneous  rock,  shooting  up  into  irregular  spires 
and  turrets,  one  or  two  thousand  feet  in  height.  It  ran  at  right  an- 
gles to  the  river,  and  extended  to  the  north,  and  to  the  south,  in  a 
chain  of  mountains  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  One  of  these 
towers  was  capped  with  a substance,  many  hundred  feet  thick,  dis- 
posed in  horizontal  strata  of  different  colors,  from  deep  red  to 
light  yellow.  Partially  disintegrated,  and  laying  at  the  foot  of  the 
chain  of  spires,  was  a yellowish  calcareous  sandstone,  altered  by 
fire,  in  large  amorphous  masses. 

For  a better  description  of  this  landscape,  see  the  sketch  by  Mr. 
Stanly. 

To  the  west,  about  a mile  below  us,  and  running  parallel  to  the 
first,  is  another  similar  seam.,  cut  through  by  the  Gila,  at  a great 
butte,  shaped  like  a house.  The  top  of  this  butte  appears  to  have 
once  formed  the  table  land,  and  is  still  covered  with  vegetation. 
Through  both  these  barriers  the  river  has  been  conducted  by  some 
other  means  than  attrition.  Where  it  passes  the  first,  it  presents 
the  appearance  of  a vast  wall  torn  down  by  blows  of  a trip  hammer. 
Under  to-day’s  date,  in  appendix  No.  2,  will  be  found  many  in- 
teresting plants,  but  the  principal  growth  was  as  usual,  Pitahaya, 
acacia,  prosopis,  Fremontia,  and  obione  canescens. 

The  latitude  of  this  camp,  which  is  within  a mile  of  the  spot 
where  we  take  a final  leave  of  the  mountains,  is,  by  the  mean  of  the 
observations  on  north  and  south  stars,  polaris  and  beta  aquarii,  33° 
05'  40";  its  longitude,  derived  by  measurement  and  also  by  the 
chronometric  difference  of  meridian  between  this  and  the  camp  of 
November  5th,  is  111°  13'  10"  west  of  Greenwich,  and  the  height 
of  the  river  at  this  point  above  the  sea,  as  indicated  by  the  barom- 
eter, 1,751  feet. 

At  night,  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  Pawnee  Fork,  I was 
interrupted  for  a moment  in  my  observations,  by  moisture  collecting 
on  the  glass  of  my  horizon  shade,  showing  a degree  of  humidity  in 


[7]  80 

the  atmosphere  not  before  existing.  In  the  States  there  is  scarcely 
a night  where  the  moisture  will  not  collect  on  the  glass  exposed  to 
the  air,  sufficient  in  .two  or  three  minutes  to  prevent  the  perfect 
transmission  of  light. 

November  9. — The  effect  of  last  night’s  dampness  was  felt  in 
the  morning,  for,  although  the  thermometer  was  only  37°,  the  cold 
was  more  sensible  than  in  the  dry  regions  at  25°. 

We  started  in  advance  of  the  command  to  explore  the  lower  belt 
of  mountains  by  which  we  were  encompassed.  The  first  thing  we 
noticed  in  the  gorge  was  a promontory  of  pitch-stone,  against  which 
the  river  impinged  with  fearful  force,  for  it  was  now  descending  at 
a rapid  rate.  Mounting  to  the  top  of  the  rock,  on  a beautiful  table, 
we  found  sunk  six  or  eight  perfectly  symmetrical  and  well-turned 
holes,  about  ten  inches  deep  and  six  or  eight  wide  at  top  ; near 
one,  in  a remote  place,  was  a pitch-stone  well  turned  and  fashioned 
like  a pestle.  These  could  be  nothing  else  than  the  corn-mills  of 
long  extinct  races.  Above  this  bed  of  pitch-stone,  a butte  of  cal- 
careous sand-stone  shot  up  to  a great  height,  in  the  seams  of  which 
•were  imbedded  beautiful  crystals  of  quartz.  Turning  the  sharp 
angle  of  the  promontory,  we  discovered  a high  perpendicular  cliff 
of  calcareous  spar  and  baked  argillaceous  rock,  against  which  the 
river  also  abutted,  seamed  so  as  to  represent  distinctly  the  flames  of 
a volcano.  A sketch  was  made  of  it,  and  is  presented  with  these 
notes.  On  the  side  of  the  river  opposite  the  igneous  rocks,  the 
butte  rose  in  perpendicular  and  confused  masses^ 

This  chain  continued,  not  parallel,  as  I supposed,  to  the  first  de- 
scribed barrier,  but  circled  round  to  the  east,  and  united  with  it. 
It  also  united  on  the  north  side,  forming  a basin  three  or  four  miles 
in  diameter,  in  which  we  encamped  last  night.  Except  a few  tufts 
of  larrea  Mtxicana,  these  hills  were  bare  of  vegetation.  Away  off 
to  the  south,  and  bordering  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  covering  the 
surface  of  the  ground  for  one  or  two  feet,  was  an  incrustration  of 
black  cellular  lava  or  basalt,  like  that  seen  about  the  R.aton. 
Nothing  more  was  wanted  to  give  the  idea  of  an  immense  extinct 
volcano.  Through  the  centre  of  the  crater  the  Gila  now  pursues 
its  rapid  course. 

The  Gila  at  this  point,  released  from  its  mountain  barrier,  flows 
off  quietly  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour  into  a wide  plain, 
which  extends  south  almost  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  Upon  this 
plain  mezquite,  chamiza,  the  green  acacia,  prosopis,  artemisia, 
obione  canescens,  and-.petahaya,  were  the  only  vegetation.  In  one 
spot  only  we  found  a few  bunches  of  grass;  more  than  four-fifths 
of  the  plain  were  destitute  of  vegetation;  the  soil,  a light  brown 
loose  sandy  earth,  I supposed  contained  something  deleterious  to 
vegetation* 


*A  specimen  of  this  soil  was  submitted  to  Professor  Fraser,  who  says:  u It  is  a light 
brown,  loose  sandy  . earth  containing  scarcely  anything  soluble  in  water,  the  solution  giving 
only  faint  indications  of  common  salt  and  carbonate  of  lime.  A very  small  portion  of  iron 
pyrites  is  also  contained  in  it,  but  I imagine  its  want  of  fertility  may  more  properly  be  attrib- 
uted to  its  deficiency  in  organic  matters.” 


We  made  our  noon  halt  at  the  grass  patch.  At  this  place  were 
the  remains  of  an  immense  Indian  settlement;  pottery  was  every- 
where to  be  found,  but  the  remains  of  the  foundations  of  the  houses 
were  imbedded  in  dust.  The  outlines  of  the  acequias,  by  which 
they  irrigated  the  soil,  were  sometimes  quite  distinct. 

The  soil  was  moist,  and  wherever  the  foot  pressed  the  ground  the 
salts  of  the  earth  effloresced,  and  gave  it  the  appearance  of  being 
covered  with  frost.  In  this  way  the  numberless  tracks  of  horses 
and  other  animals,  which  had  at  times  traversed  the  plains,  were 
indelible,  and  could  be  traced  for  great  distances,  by  the  eye,  in 
long  white  seams. 

We  found  fresh  trails  of  horses,  which  might  be  those  of  General 
Castro,  or  the  Indians.  When  leaving  California,  Castro’s  deter- 
mination, as  we  learn  from  Carson,  was  to  go  to  Sonora,  beat  up 
recruits,  and  return.  Our  route  might  easily  be  reached,  for  we  are 
now  marching  along  a road  everywhere  accessible,  and  within  three 
days’  march  of  the  settlements  of  Sonora  and  the  fort  at  Tucsoon, 
said  to  be  regularly  garrisoned  by  Mexican  soldiers. 

We  passed  the  deserted  lodges  of  Indians,  and,  at  one  place 
remote  from  the  lodges,  we  saw  thirteen  poles  set  up  in  a sort  of 
incantation  formula;  twelve  on  the  circumference  of  a circle,  twenty 
feet  in  diameter,  and  one  in  the  centre.  Radii  were  drawn  on  the 
ground  from  the  centre  pole  to  each  one  in  the  periphery  of  the 
circle.  It  was  the  figuring  of  some  medicine  man  of  the  Apaches 
or  Pimos,  we  could  not  tell  which,  for  it  was  on  neutral  ground 
about  the  dividing  line  of  the  possessions  claimed  by  each. 

After  leaving:  the  mountains  all  seemed  for  a moment  to  consider 
the  difficulties  of  our  journey  at  an  end.  The  mules  went  off  at  a 
frolicsome  pace,  those  which  were  loose  contending  with  each  other 
for  precedence  in  the  trail.  The  howitzers,  which  had  nearly  every 
part  of  their  running  gear  broken  and  replaced,  were,  perhaps,  the 
only  things  that  were  benefitted  by  the  change  from  the  mountains 
to  the  plains.  These  were  under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  David- 
son, whose  post  has  been  no  sinecure.  In  overcoming  one  set  of 
difficulties  we  were  now  to  encounter  another.  In  leaving  the 
mountains  we  were  informed  that  we  bade  adieu  to  grass,  and  our 
mules  must  henceforth  subsist  on  willow,  cotton  wood,  and  the  long 
green  ephedra. 

November  10. — The  valley  on  the  southern  side  of  the  Gila  still 
grows  wider.  Away  off  in  that  direction,  the  peaks  of  the  Sonora 
mountains  just  peep  above  the  horizon.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  and  a.  few  miles  from  it,  runs  a low  chain  of  serrated  hills. 
Near  our  encampment,  a corresponding  range  draws  in  from  the 
southeast,  giving  the  river  a bend  to  the  north.  At  the  base  of  this 
chain  is  a long  meadow,  reaching  for  many  miles  south,  in  which 
the  Pimos  graze  their  cattle;  and  along  the  whole  day’s  march  were 
remains  of  zequias,  pottery,  and  other  evidences  of  a once  densely 
populated  country.  About  the  time  of  the  noon  halt,  a large  pile, 
which  seemed  the  work  of  human  hands,  was  seen  to  the  left.  It 
was  the  remains  of  a three-story  mud  house,  60  feet  square,  pierced 
for  doors  and  windows.  The  walls  were  four  feet  thick,  and  formed 


6 


82 


[7] 

by  layers  of  mud,  two  feet  thick.  Stanly  made  an  elaborate  sketch 
of  every  part;  for  it  was,  no  doubt,  built  by  the  same  race  that  had  s 
once  so  thickly  peopled  this  territory,  and  left  behind  the  ruins. 

We  made  a long  and  careful  search  for  some  specimens  of  house- 
hold furniture,  or  implement  of  art,  but  nothing  was  found  except  | 
the  corngrinder,  always  met  with  among  the  ruins  and  on  the  plains. 
The  marine  shell,  cut  into  various  ornaments,  was  also  found  here, 
which  showed  that  these  people  either  came  from  the  sea  coast  or  j 
trafficked  there.  No  traces  of  hewn  timber  were  discovered;  on 
the  contrary,  the  sleepers  of  the  ground  floor  were  round  and  un- 
hewn. They  were  burnt  out  of  their  seats  in  the  wall  to  the  depth  I 
of  six  inches.  The  whole  interior  of  the  house  had  been  burnt  out, 
and  the  walls  much  defaced.  What  was  left  bore  marks  of  having 
been  glazed,  and  on  the  wall  in  the  north  room  of  the  second  story 
were  traced  the  following  hieroglyphics. 

Where  we  encamped,  eight  or  nine  miles  from  the  Pimos  village,  we 
met  a Maricopo  Indian,  looking  for  his  cattle.  The  frank,  confi-  j 
dent  manner  in  which  he  approached  us  was  in  strange  contrast 
with  that  of  the  suspicious  Apache.  Soon  six  or  eight  of  the 
Pimos  came  in  at  full  speed.  Their  object  was,  to  ascertain  who 
we  were,  and  what  we  wanted.  They  told  us  the  fresh  trail  we 
aw  up  the  river  was  that  of  their  people,  sent  to  watch  the  move- 
ments of  their  enemies,  the  Apaches.  Being  young,  they  became 
much  alarmed  on  seeing  us,  and  returned  to  the  town,  giving  the 
alarm  that  a large  body  of  Apaches  were  approaching. 

Their  joy  was  unaffected  at  seeing  we  were  Americans,  and  not  | 
Apaches.  The  chief  of  the  guard  at  once  despatched  newTs  to  his  | 
chief,  of  the  result  of  his  reconnoissance.  The  town  was  nine  miles 
distant,  yet,  in  three  hours,  our  camp  was  filled  with  Pimos  loaded 
with  corn,  beans,  honey,  and  zandias  (water  melons.)  A brisk  trade 
wYas  at  once  opened.  This  was  my  observing  night;  but  the  crowd 
of  Indians  was  great,  and  the  passing  and  repassing,  at  full  speed 
so  continuous,  that  I got  an  indifferent  set  of  observations. 

The  camp  of  my  party  was  pitched  on  the  side  .nearest  the  town, 
and  we  saw  the  first  of  these  people  and  their  mode  of  approach. 

It  was  perfectly  frank  and  unsuspicious.  Many  would  leave  their 
packs  in  our  camp  and  be  absent  for  hours,  theft  seeming  to  be  un- 
known among  them.  With  the  mounted  guard,  which  first  visited 
us,  was  a man  on  foot,  and  he  appeared  to  keep  pace  with  the 
fleetest  horse.  He  was  a little  out  of  breath  when  he  reached  us, 
but  soon  recovering,  told  us  he  was  the  interpreter  to  Juan  Antonio 
Llunas,  chief  of  the  Pimos. 

We  were  taking  some  refreshments  at  the  time,  and  invited  him 
to  taste  of  them.  The  effect  was  electric;  it  made  his  bright,  in- 
telligent eye  flash,  and  loosened  his  tongue.  I asked  him,  among 
other  things,  the  origin  of  the  ruins  of  wdiich  we  had  seen  so  many;  ' 
he  said,  all  he  knew,  was  a tradition  amongst  them,  that  in  bygone 
days,  a woman  of  surpassing  beauty  resided  in  a green  spot  in  the 
mountains  near  the. place  where  we  were  encamped.  All  the  men 
admired,  and  paid  court  to  her.  She  received  the  tributes  of  their  i 
devotion,  grain,  skins,  &c.,  but  gave  no  love  or  other  favor  in  return. 


f’Y,i 


The  Interpreter  of  lire  TTrnos 
"by  birth,  a Coco  Man  cop  as . 

Xirli  TyvS  .'Weber & Co iBsito . 


\ 


( 


83 


m 

Her  virtue,  and  her  determination  to  remain  unmarried  were  equal- 
ly firm.  There  came  a drought  which  threatened  the  world  with 
famine.  In  their  distress,  people  applied  to  her,  and  she  gave  corn 
from  her  stock,  and  the  supply  seemed  to  be  endless.  Her  good- 
ness was  unbounded.  One  day,  as  she  was  lying  asleep  with  her 
body  exposed,  a drop  of  rain  fell  on  her  stomach,  which  produced 
conception.  A son  was  the  issue,  who  was  the  founder  of  a new 
race  which  built  all  these  houses. 

I told  the  interpreter  repeatedly,  he  must  go  and  report  to  the 
general,  but  his  answer  was,  ulet  me  wait  till  I blow  a little.” 
The  attraction  was  the  aquardente.  At  length  he  was  prevailed  on 
to  go  to  head-quarters,  leaving  at  our  camp  his  bows  and  arrows 
and  other  matters,  saying  he  would  return  and  pass  the  night 
with  us. 

November  11. — Leaving  the  column,  a few  of  us  struck  to  the 
north  side  of  the  river,  guided  by  my  loqacious  friend,  the  inter- 
preter, to  visit  the  ruins  of  another  Casa  Montezuma.  In  the 
course  of  the  ride,  I asked  him  if  he  believed  the  fable  he  had  re- 
lated to  me  last  night,  which  assigned  an  origin  to  these  buildings. 
^No,”  said  he,  ubut  most  of  the  Pimos  do.  We  know*,  in  truth, 
nothing  of  their  origin.  It  is  all  enveloped  in  mystery.” 

The  casa  was  in  complete  ruins,  one  pile  of  broken  pottery  and 
foundation  stone  of  the  black  basalt,  making  a mound  about  ten 
feet  above  the  ground.  The  outline  of  the  ground  plan  was  dis- 
tinct enough. 

We  found  the  description  of  pottery  the  same  as  ever;  and, 
among  the  ruins,  the  same  sea  shell;  one  worked  into  ornaments; 
also  a large  bead,  an  inch  and  a quarter  in  length,  of  bluish  marble, 
exquisitely  turned. 

We  secured  to-day  our  long  sought  bird,  the  inhabitant  of  the 
mezquite,  indigo  blue  plumage,  with  top  knot  and  long  tail.  Its 
wings,  when  spread,  showing  a white  ellipse. 

Turning  from  the  ruins  towards  the  Pimos  village,  we  urged  our 
guide  to  go  fast,  as  we  wished  to  see  as  much  of  his  people  as  the  day 
would  permit.  He  was  on  foot,  but  led  at  a pace  which  kept  our 
mules  in  a trot.  ♦ 

We  came  in  at  the  back  of  the  settlement  of  Pimos  Indians, 
and  found  our  troo*ps  encamped  in  a corn  field,  from  which  the 
grain  had  been  gathered.  We  were  at  once  impressed  with  the 
beauty,  order,  and  disposition  of  the  arrangements  for  irrigating 
and  draining  the  land.  Corn,  wheat,  and  cotton  are  the  crops  of 
this  peaceful  and  intelligent  race  of  people.  All  the  crops  have 
been  gathered  in,  and  the  stubbies  show  they  have  been  luxuriant. 
The  cotton  has  been  picked,  and  stacked  for  drying  on  the  tops 
of  sheds.  The  fields-  are  sub-divided,  by  ridges  of  earth,  into  rec- 
tangles of  about  200  x 100  feet  for  the  convenience  of  irrigating. 
The  fences  are  of  sticks,  wattled  with  willow  and  mezquite,  and, 
in  this  particular,  set  an  example  of  economy  in  agriculture  worthy 
to  be  followed  by  the  Mexicans,  who  never  use  fences  at  all.  The 
houses  of  the  people  are  mere  sheds,  thatched  with  willow  and 
corn  stalks. 


84 


m 

With  the  exception  of  the  chief,  Antonio  Llunas,  who  was 
clad  in  cast  off  Mexican  toggery,  the  dress  of  the  men  consisted  of 
a cotton  serape  of  domestic  manufacture,  and  a breech  cloth. 
Their  hair  was  very  long,  and  clubbed  up.  The  women  wore 
nothing  but  the  serape  pinned  about  the  loins,  after  the  ‘fashion  of 
Fersico’s  Indian  woman  on  the  east  side  of  the  Capitol,  though  not 
quite  so  low. 

The  camp  was  soon  filled  with  men,  women,  and  children,  each 
with  a basket  of  corn,  frijoles,  or  meal,  for  traffic.  Many  had 
jars  of  the  molasses  expressed  from  the  fruit  of  the  pitahaya. 
Beads,  red  cloth,  white  domestic,  and  blankets,  were  the  articles 
demanded  in  exchange.  Major  Swords,  who  had  charge  of  the 
trading  duty,  pitched  a temporary  awning,  under  which  to  conduct 
the  business,  which  had  scarcely  commenced  before  this  place 
formed  a perfect  menagerie,  into  which  crowded,  with  eager  eyes, 
Pimos,  Maricopas,  Mexicans,  French,  Dutch,  English,  and  Ameri- 
cans. As  I passed  on  to  take  a peep  at  the  scene,  naked  arms, 
hands,  and  legs  protruded  from  the  awning.  Inside  there  was  no 
room  for  bodies,  but  many  heads  had  clustered  into  a very  smal^  * 
space,  filled  with  different  tongues  and  nations'.  The  trade  went 
merrily  on,  and  the  conclusion  of  each  bargain  was  announced  by 
a grunt  and  a joke,  sometimes  at  the  expense  of  the  quartermaster, 
but  oftener  at  that  of  the  Pimos. 

November  12. — We  procured  a sufficiency  of  corn,  wheat,  and 
beans  from  the  Pimos,  but  only  two  or  three  bullocks,  and  neither 
horses  nor  mules.  They  have  but  few  cattle,  which  are  used  in 
tillage,  and  apparently  all  steers,  procured  from  the  Mexicans. 
Their  horses  and  mules  were  not  plenty,  and  those  they  possessed 
were  prized  extravagantly  high.  One  dashing  young  fellow,  with 
ivory  teeth  and  flowing  hair,  was  seen  coming  into  our  camp  at 
full  speed,  on  a wild  unruly  horse, that  flew  from  side  to  side  as  he 
approached,  alarmed  at  the  novel  apparition  of  our  people.  The 
Maricopa,  for  he  was  of  that  tribe,  was  without  saddle  or  stir- 
rups, and  balanced  himself  to  the  right  and  left  with  such  ease  and 
grace  as  to  appear  part  of  his  horse.  He  succeeded  in  bringing 
his  fiery  nag  into  the  heart  of  the  carnf.  He  was  immediately 
offered  a very  advantageous  trade  by  some  young  officer.  He 
stretched  himself  on  his  horse’s  neck,  caressed  it  tenderly,  at  the 
same  time  shutting  his  eyes,  meaning  thereby  that  no  offer  could 
tempt  him  to  part  with  his  charger. 

The  general  gave  a letter  to  Governor  Llunas,  stating  he  was  a 
good  man,  and  directing  all  United  States  troops  that  might  pass 
in  his  rear,  to  respect  his  excellency,  his  people,  and  their  proper- 
ty. Several  broken  down  mules  were  left  with  him  to  recruit,  for 
the  benefit  of  Cook’s  battalion  as  it  passed  along. 

To  us  it  was  a rare  sight  to  be  thrown  in  the  midst  of  a large 
nation  of  what  is  termed  wild  Indians,  surpassing  many  of  the 
Christian  nations  in  agriculture,  little  behind  them  in  the  useful 
arts,  and  immeasurably  before  them  in  honesty  and  virtue.  During 
the  whole  of  yesterday,  our  camp  was  full  of  men,  women,  and 


i 


♦ 


’^.v.  - -.. 

?.-  l%to'  :>  J 


Juan  Antonio  _.  Pomo  Head  Chief. 

Iatk.  lay  IE.  Weber  8cCo.Balto. 

- . 

' , . . r y r \ .. 


<s 


' 

( 


* 


s 


85  [7] 

children,  who  sauntered  amongst  our  packs,  unwatched,  and  not  a 
single  instance  of  theft  was  reported. 

I rode  leisurely  in  the  rear,  through  the  thatched  huts  of  the 
Pimos;  each  abode  consists  of  a dome-shaped  wicker-work,  about 
six  feet  high,  and  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  thatched 
with  straw  or  cornstalks.  In  front  is  usually  a large  arbor,  on  top 
of  which  is  piled  the  cotton  in  the  pod,  for  drying. 

In  the  houses  were  stQwed  watermelons,  pumpkins,  beans,  corn, 
and  wheat,  the  three  last  articles  generally  in  large  baskets;  some- 
times the  corn  was  in  baskets  covered  with  earth,  and  placed  on 
the  tops  of  the  domes.  A few  chickens  and  dogs  were  seen,  but 
no  other  domestic  animals,  except  horses,  mules,  and  oxen.  Their 
implements  of  husbandry  were  the  axe  (of  steel,)  wooden  hoes, 
shovels,  and  harrows.  The  soil  is  so  easily  pulverized  as  to  make 
the  plough  unnecessary. 

Several  acquaintances,  formed  in  our  camp  yesterday,  were  re- 
cognized, and  they  received  me  cordially,  made  signs  to  dismount, 
and  when  I did  so,  offered  watermelons  and  pinole.  Pinole  is  the 
heart  of  Indian  corn,  baked,  ground  up,  and  mixed  with  sugar. 
When  dissolved  in  water,  it  affords  a delicious  beverage,  it  quenches 
thirst,  and  is  very  nutritious.  Their  molasses,  put  up  in  large 
jars,  hermetically  sealed,  of  which  they  had  quantities,  is  expressed 
fi  om  the  fruit  of  the  pitahaya. 

A woman  was  seated  on  the  ground  under  the  shade  of  one  of  the 
cotton  sheds.  Her  left  leg  was  tucked  under  her  seat  and  her  foot 
turned  sole  upwards;  between  her  big  toe  and  the  next,  was  a 
spindle  about  18  inches  long,  with  a single  fly  of  four  or  six  inches. 
Ever  and  anon  she  gave  it  a twist  in  a dexterous  manner,  and  at  its 
end  was  drawn  a coarse  cotton  thread.  This  was  their  spinning 
jenny.  Led  on  by  this  primitive  display,  I asked  for  their  loom 
by  pointing  to  the  thread  and  then  to  the  blanket  girded  about  the 
woman’s  loins.  A fellow  stretched  in  the  dust  sunning  himself, 
rose  up  leisurely  and  untied  a bundle  which  I had  supposed  to  be 
a bow  and  arrow.  This  little  package,  with  four  stakes  in  the 
ground,  was  the  loom.  He  stretched  his  cloth  and  commenced  the 
process  of  weaving. 

We  travelled  15 J miles  and  encamped  on  the  dividing  ground 
between  the  Pimos  and  Maricoj  as.  For  the  whole  distance,  we 
passed  through  cultivated  grounds,  over  a luxuriantly  rich  soil. 
The  plain  appeared  to  extend  in  every  direction  15  or  20  miles, 
except  in  one  place  about  five  miles  before  reaching  camp,  where 
a low  chain  of  hills  comes  in  from  the  southeast,  and  terminates 
some  miles  from  the  river.  The  bed  of  the  Gila,  opposite  the  vil- 
lage, is  said  to  be  dry;  the  whole  water  being  drawn  off  by  the  ze- 
quias  of  the  Pimos  for  irrigation;  but  their  ditches  are  larger  than 
is  necessary  for  this  purpose,  and  the  water  which  is  not  used  re- 
turns to  the  bed  of  the  river  with  little  apparent  diminution  in  its 
volume. 

Looking  from  our  camp  north,  30  west,  you  see  a great  plain 
with  mountains  rising  in  the  distance  on  each  side.  This  prospect 
had  induced  some  travellers  to  venture  from  here  in  a direct  line-to 


86 


m 

Monterey  in  California,  but  there  is  neither  grass  nor  water  on  that 
passage,  and  thirst  and  distress  overcame,  undoubtedly,  those  who 
attempted  it. 

In  almost  an  opposite  direction  north,  50  east,  there  is  a gap  in 
the  mountains  through  which  the  Salt  river  flows  to  meet  the  Gila, 
making  with  it  an  acute  angle,  at  a point  ten  or  fifteen  miles  dis- 
tant from  our  camp,  bearing  northwest.  A little  north  of  east, 
another  gap,  twenty  or  thirty  miles  distant,  shows  where  the  Rio 
San  Francisco  flows  into  the  Salt  river.  From  the  best  informa- 
tion I can  collect,  the  San  Francisco  comes  in  from  the  north;  its 
valley  is  narrow  and  much  canoried;  good  grass  abounds  all  the 
way.  Le  Yonoceur,  one  of  my  party,  came  down  that  river  in  1844 
with  a trapping  party  of  forty-eight  men.  He  states  that  they  were 
much  annoyed  the  whole  way  by  the  Apache  Indians,  a great  many 
of  whom  reside  on  that  river.  Every  night  they  were  fired  upon, 
and  an  attempt  made  to  stampede  their  mules.  Many  traps  were 
stolen,  and  one  of  their  party,  an  old  man,  w'ho  had  been  in  the 
mountains  forty-five  years,  was  killed  by  the  Indians  in  this  expe- 
dition. 

Near  the  junction  of  the  Gila  and  Salt  rivers,  there  is  a chain  of 
low  serrated  hills  coming  in  from  both  sides,  contracting  the  valley 
considerably.  Around  the  South  Spur  the  Gila  turns,  making  its 
course  in  a more  southerly  direction.  To  the  east,  except  where 
the  spurs  already  mentioned  protrude,  the  plain  extends  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach.  A great  deal  of  the  land  is  cultivated,  but  there 
is  still  a vast  portion  within  the  level  of  the  Gila  that  is  yet  to  be 
put  under  tillage.  The  population  of  the  Pimos  and  Maricopas 
together  is  estimated  variously  at  from  three  to  ten  thousand.  The 
first  is  evidently  too  low. 

This  peaceful  and  industrious  race  are  in  possession  of  a beauti- 
ful and  fertile  basin.  Living  remote  -from  the  civilized  world,  they 
are  seldom  visited  by  whites,  and  then  only  by  those  in  distress, 
to  whom  they  generously  furnish  horses  and  food.  Aguardiente 
(brandy)  is  known  among  their  chief  men  only,  and  the  abuse  of 
this,  and  the  vices  which  it  entails,  are  yet  unknown. 

They  are  without  other  religion  than  a belief  in  one  great  and 
over-ruling  spirit. 

Their  peaceful  disposition  is  not  the  result  of  incapacity  for  wan, 
for  they  are  at  all  times  enabled  to  meet  and  vanquish  the  Apaches 
in  battle,  and  when  we  passed,  they  had  just  returned  from  an 
expedition  in  the  Apache  country  to  revenge  some  thefts  and  other 
outrages,  with  eleven  scalps  and  thirteen  prisoners.  The  prisoners 
are  sold  as  slaves  to  the  Mexicans. 

The  Maricopas  occupy  that  part  of  the  basin  lying  between 
camp  97  and  the  mouth  of  the  Salt  river,  and  all  that  has  been 
said  of  the  Pimos,  is  applicable  to  them.  They  live  in  cordial 
amity,  and  their  habits,  agriculture,  religion,  and  manufactures, 
are  the  same.  In  stature,  they  are  taller;  their  noses  are  more 
aquiline,  and  they  have  a much  readier  manner  of  speaking  and 
acting.  I noticed  that  most  of  the  interpreters  of  the  Pimos  were 
of  this  tribe,  and  also  the  men  we  met  with  in  the  spy  guard. 


Firnos  & Coco  Maxicopas  Indians. 


Though  fewer  in  number,  they  appear  to  be  superior  in  intelligence 
and  personal  appearance. 

Don  Jose  Messio  is  their  governor,  and,  like  the  governor  of  the 
Pimos,  holds  his  office  by  the  appointment  of  the  Mexican  governor 
of  California.  The  people  have  no  choice  in  the  selection.  Both 
these  Indians  are  respectable  looking  old  men,  and  seem  to  be 
really  worthy  of  the  trust  reposed  in  them. 

We  had  not  been  long  in  camp  before  a dense  column  of  dust 
down  the  river  announced  the  approach  of  the  Maricopas,  some  on 
foot,  but  mostly  on  horseback.  They  came  into  camp  at  full  speed, 
unarmed,  and  in  the  most  confident  manner,  bringing  water  melons, 
meal,  pinole,  and  salt,  for  trade.  The  salt  is  taken  from  the  plains; 
wherever  there  are  bottoms  which  have  no  natural  drainage,  the 
salt  effloresces  and  is  skimmed  from  the  surface  of  the  earth.  It 
was  brought  to  us,  both  in  the  crystallized  form,  and  in  the  form 
when  first  collected,  mixed  with  earth. 

My  camp  was  selected  on  the  side  towards  the  village,  and  the 
constant  galloping  of  horses  rendered  it  difficult  for  me  to  take 
satisfactory  observations,  which  I was  desirous  of  doing,  as  it  is 
an  important  station.  When  I placed  my  horizon  on  the  ground, 
I found  that  the  galloping  of  a horse  five  hundred  yards  off  affected 
the  mercury,  and  prevented  a perfectly  reflected  image  of  the  stars, 
and  it  was  in  vain  to  hope  for  these  restless  Maricopas  to  keep 
quiet.  News  got  about  of  my  dealings  with  the  stars,  and  my 
camp  was  crowded  the  whole  time. 

The  latitude  of  this  camp  by  such  observations  as  the  Maricopas 
would  allow  me  to  make,  was  33°  09'  28",  and  the  longitude  112° 
07'  13". 

November  13  and  14. — With  the  morning  came  the  Maricopas 
women,  dressed  like  the  Pimos.  They  are  somewhat  taller,  and 
one  peculiarity  struck  me  forcibly,  that  while  the  men  had  aquiline 
noses,  those  of  the  women  were  retrousses.  Finding  the  trade  in 
meal  had  ceased,  they  collected  in  squads  about  the  different  fires, 
and  made  the  air  ring  with  their  jokes  and  merry  peals  of  laughter. 
Mr.  Bestor’s  spectacles  were  a great  source  of  merrfrnent.  Some 
of  them  formed  the  idea  that  with  their  aid,  he  could  see  through 
their  cotton  blankets.  They  would  shrink  and  hide  behind  each 
other  at  his  approach.  At  length,  I placed  the  spectacles  on  the 
nose  of  an  old  woman,  who  became  acquainted  with  their  use  and 
explained  it  to  the  others. 

We  were  notified  that  a long  journey  was  to  be  made  without 
finding  water,  (to  cut  off  an  elbow  in  the  river,)  and  the  demand  for 
gourds  was  much  greater  than  the  supply.  One  large  gourd  cost  me 
four  strings  of  glass  beads,  which  was  thought  a high  price.  The 
interpreter  who  guided  us  to  the  Casa  Montezuma,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  CHla,  said  that  on  the  Salt  river,  about  a day’s  journey 
and  a half,  there  was  one  of  those  buildings  standing,  complete  in 
all  respects  except  the  floors  and  roof.  He  said  it  was  very  large, 
with  beautiful  glazed  walls;  that  the  footsteps  of  the  men  employed 
in  building  the  house  could  yet  be  seen  in  the  adobe,  and  that  the 
impression  was  that  of  a naked  foot.  Whenever  a rain  comes,  the 


Indians  resort  to  these  old  houses  to  look  for  trinkets  of  shells, 
and  a peculiar  green  stone  which  I think  is  nothing  more  than 
verde  antique. 

At  12  o’clock,  after  giving  our  horses  a last  watering,  we  started 
off  in  a southwestern  direction  to  turn  the  southern  foot  of  the 
range  of  hills  pointing  to  the  Salt  river.  Five  miles  brought  us 
into  a grove  of  the  pitahaya,  which  had  yielded,  a plentiful  supply 
of  fruit  to  the  Indians.  Our  way  was  over  a plain  of  granitic 
sand,  ascending  gradually  and  almost  imperceptibly.  After  leav- 
ing the  pitahaya,  there  was  no  growth  except  the  larrea  Mexicana, 
and  occasionally,  at  long  intervals,  an  acacia  or  inga. 

We  travelled  till  long  after  dark,  and  dropped  down  in  a dust 
hole  near  two  large  green-barked  acacias.  There  was  not  a sprig 
of  grass  or  a drop  of  water,  and  during  the  whole  night  the  mules 
kept  up  a piteous  cry*for  both. 

There  was  nothing  but  the  offensive  larrea,  which  even  mules  will 
not  touch,  when  so  hungry  as  to  eat  with  ^vidity  the  dry  twigs  of 
all  other  shrubs  and  trees.  As  soon  as  the  moon  rose,  at  3,  a.  m., 
the  bugle  sounded  to  horse,  and  we  were  up  and  pursuing  our  way. 
A little  after  sunrise,  we  had  passed  the  summit  and  were  descend- 
ing towards  the  Gila.  This  summit  was  formed  by  a range  of 
granite  hills  running  southeast,  and  standing  in  pinnacles. 

As  the  sun  mounted,  the  mirage  only  seen  once  before  since 
leaving  the  plains  of  the  Arkansas,  now  began  to  distort  the  dis- 
tant mountains,  which  everywhere  bounded  the  horizon,  into  many 
fantastic  shapes.  The  morning  was  sharp  and  bracing,  and  I was 
excessively  hungry,  having  given  my  breakfast,  consisting  of  two 
biscuits,  to  my  still  more  hungry  mule.  I was  describing  to  Mr. 
Warner  how  much  more  pleasant  it  would  be  to  be  jogging  into 
Washington  after  a fox  hunt,  with  the  prospect  of  a hot  breakfast, 
when  up  rose  to  our  astonished  view,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Gila, 
a perfect  representation  of  the  capitol,  with  dome,  wings,  and 
portico,  all  complete.  It  remained  for  full  twenty  minutes  with 
its  proportions  and  outline  perfect,  when  it  dwindled  down  into  a 
distant  butte* 

We  went  on  briskly  to  the  Gila,  whose  course,  marked  by  the 
green  cotton  wTood,  could  be  easily  traced.  It  looked  much  nearer 
than  it  really  was.  We  reached  it  after  making  forty  miles  from 
our  camp  of  yesterday. 

Our  poor  brutes  were  so  hungry  they  would  drink  no  water,  but 
fell  to  work  on  the  young  willows  and  cane.  After  letting  them 
bite  a few  minutes,  we  moved  down  the  river  five  miles  farther,  to 
a large  and  luxuriant  patch  of  paspalum  grass,  shaded  by  the 
acacia  and  prosopis. 

My  eyes  becoming  sore  wfith  dust,  I took  a large  object  for  my 
southern  star  to-night,  the  planet  saturn.  16  circum-jneridian  alti- 
tudes of  saturn  and  9 altitudes  of  polaris  give  the  latitude  of  the 
camp  35°  59'  22",  and  the  longitude  given  by  the  chronometer  is 
112°  50'  01". 

November  15. — In  the  morning  the  general  found  the  mules  so 
much  worsted  by  the  45  miles  journey  without  food  or  water,  that 


89 


m 

he  determined  to  remain  for  the  day.  Most  of  the  mules  belonging 
to  my  party  have  travelled  1800  miles,  almost  continuously.  Two 
or  three  times  they  have  all  appeared  on  the  eve  of  death;  but  a 
mule’s  vitality  seems  to  recuperate,  when  life  seems  to  be  almost 
extinct,  so  I am  in  hopes  the  day’s  rest  will  revive  them  sufficiently 
to  enable  them  to  undertake  what  will  be  the  most  distressing  part 
of  the  journey.  From  information  collected  from  the  Indians  and 
others,  it  appears  that  we  shall  meet  with  no  more  grass  from  this 
spot  to  the  settlements,  estimated  300  miles  distant. 

This  has  been  a gloomy  day  in  the  dragoon  camp.  The  jornada 
cost  them  six  or  eight  mules,  and  those  which  have  survived  give 
little  promise  of  future  service.  The  howitzers  make  severe 
draughts  on  them.  Yesterday,  within  five  miles  of  the  river,  Lieu- 
tenant Davidson  was  obliged  to  hitch  his  private  mules  to  them. 
An  order  has  been  given  to-day  to  dismount  one-half  the  command 
and  reserve  the  animals  for  packing. 

From  all  accounts  there  is  no  difficulty  in  following  the  route  of 
the  river  from  camp  97  to  this  place,  and  the  journey  is  but  a trifle 
longer;  I would,  therefore,  recommend  parties  in  our  rear  to  get  a 
Coco  Maricopa  guide  and  keep  the  river. 

Remains  of  an  old  zequia,  and  the  plains  covered  with  broken 
pottery.  About  us  there  are  signs  of  modern  Indian  tenements,  and 
the  zequia  may  possibly  have  been  the  work  of  their  hands.  We 
know  the  Maricopas  have  moved  gradually  from  the  gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia to  their  present  location  in  juxta  position  with  the  Pimos. 
Carson  found  them,  so  late  as  the  year  1826,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Gila;  and  Dr.  Anderson,  who  passed  from  Sonora  to  California  in 
1828,  found  them,  as  near  as  we  could  reckon  from  his  notes,  about 
the  place  we  are  now  encamped  in.  The  shells  found  to-day  were, 
in  my  opinion,  evidently  brought  by  the  Maricopas  from  the  sea. 
They  differ  from  those  we  found  among  the  ruins. 

Observed  for  time  to-night  and  obtained  the  rates  of  my  chrono- 
meters; that  of  chronometer  No.  783,  12s.  per  day,  showing  a very 
satisfactory  consistency  in  rate  since  leaving  the  mountains. 

November  16. — The  valley  on  the  south  side  continues  wide, 
and  shows  continuously  the  marks  of  former  cultivation.  On  the 
north  side  the  hills  run  close  to  the  river. 

After  making  ten  miles  we  came  to  a dry  creek,  coming  from  a 
plain  reaching  far  to  the  south,  and  then  we  mounted  the  table 
lands  to  avoid  a bend  in  the  river,  made  by  a low  chain  of  black 
hills  coming  in  from  the  southeast.  The  table  land  was  strewed 
with  fragments  of  black  basalt,  interspersed  with  agate,  chalcedony, 
vitrified  quartz,  and  carbonate  of  lime.  About  the  summit  was  a 
mound  of  granite  boulders,  blackened  by  augite,  and  covered  with 
unknown  characters;  the  work  of  human  hands.  These  have  been 
copied.  On  the  ground  near  by  were  also  traces  of  some  of  the 
figures  showing  some  of  the  hieroglyphics,  at  least,  to  have  been 
the  work  of  modern  Indians.  Others  were  of  undoubted  antiquity, 
and  the  signs  and  symbols  intended  doubtless,  to  commemorate 
some  great  event.  One  stone  bore  on  it  what  might  be  taken,  with 
a little  stretch  of  the  imagination,  to  be  amastadon,a  horse,  a dog, 


[-7]  - 90 

and  a man.  Their  heads  are  turned  to  the  east,  and  this  may  com- 
memorate the  passage  of  the  Aborigines  of  the  Gila  on  their  way 
south.  J 


91 


PI 

Many  of  the  modern  symbols  are  in  imitation  of  the  antique, 
and,  doubtless,  the  medicine  men  of  the  present  day  resort  to  this 
mound  to  invoke  their  unseen  spirits,  and  work  the  miracles  which 
enable  them  to  hold  their  sway  amongst  their  credulous  race. 
There  are  many  more  weird  and  mysterious  looking  places  than  this 
to  be  found  along  the  banks  of  the  Gila,  and  the  first  attraction  to 
the  modern  Indian  was,  without  doubt,  the  strange  characters^  he 
saw  inscribed. 

Some  of  the  boulders  appear  to  have  been  written  and  re-written 
upon  so  often  it  was  impossible  to  get  a distinct  outline  of  any 
of  the  characters. 

We  descended  into  the  broad  valley  of  the  Gila,  skirted  on  the 
south  side  of  the  table  land,  black  with  basalt  pebbles,  resting  on 
a stratum  of  the  carbonate  of  lime  upon  which  the  river  impinged 
at  every  flood,  and  widened  its  valley. 

The  hills  on  the  north  side  were  of  red  and  grey  rocks,  probably 

! granite,  irregular  in  form,  varying  from  500  to  1,000  feet.  Finding 
| no  grass,  we  loosened  our  mules  among  the  willows  and  cane. 

I November  17. — The  route  to-day  was  over  a country  much  the 
same  as  that  described  yesterday.  Wherever  we  mounted  to  the 
; table  lands  to  cut  off  a bend  in  the  river,  found  them  dreary  beyond 
description,  covered  with  blocks  of  basalt,  with  a few  intervals  of 
dwarf  growth  of  larrea.  Now  and  then  a single  acacia  raised  its 
solitary  form  and  displayed  its  verdure  in  the  black  expanse.  We 
crossed  the  dry  beds  of  two  creeks  with  sandy  bottoms.  Under  the 
crust  of  basalt  are  usually  sand-stone  and  a conglomerate  of  peb- 
bles, sand-stone,  and  lime.  This  last  is  easily  undermined  by  the 
river,  and  the  basalt  or  lava  then  caves  in. 

The  bottoms  of  the  river  are  wide,  rich,  and  thickly  overgrown 
with  willow  and  a tall  aromatic  weed,  and  alive  with  flights  of 
white  brant,  (wing  tipped  with  black,)  geese,  and  ducks,  with 
many  signs  of  deer  and  beaver. 

At  night  I heard  the  song  of  the  sailors  calling  the  depth  of  the 
water,  and  presently,  Williams,  Lieutenant  Warner’s  servant,  who 
had  been  missing  all  day,  came  out  of  the  river  with  the  hind  quar- 
ters of  a large  buck,  perfectly  intoxicated  with  his  unexpected  suc- 
cess. Twelve  miles  back,  he  let  his  mule  loose,  went  in  pursuit  of 
deer,  and  killed  a buck.  After  lugging  the  whole  of  it  for  two 
miles,  he  lightened  his  load  by  leaving  one-half. 

We  encamped  down  in  one  of  the  deserted  beds  of  the  Gila, 
where  the  ground  was  cracked  and  drawn  into  blisters.  The  night 
was  cold,  the  thermometer  at  6,  a.  m.,  20°. 

Latitude  of  the  camp  32°  55'  5 2".  Longitude  of  the  camp  113° 
25'  25". 

November  18. — High  wind  from  the  northwest  all  day,  showing 
that  there  was  still  a barrier  of  snow-clad  mountains  between  our- 
selves and  Monterey,  which  we  must  turn  or  scale. 

Carson  pointed  to  a flat  rock  covered  with  fur,  and  told  that 
he  had  slaughtered  a fat  mule  there.  The  names  of  several  Ameri- 
cans were  inscribed  on  ^he  same  rock. 

After  travelling  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  through  the  valley,  we 


92 


m 

mounted  to  the  table  land,  and  at  12J  o’clock  stopped  to  graze 
our  horses  at  a little  patch  of  dried  spear  grass.  Leaving  this,  the 
ground,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was  strewed  with  the  black, 
shining,  well  rounded  pebbles.  The  larrea  even  was  scarcely  seen, 
and  dreariness  seemed  to  mantle  the  earth.  The  arroyo  by  which 
we  descended  to  the  river  was  cut  from  a bed  of  reddish  pebbles  20 
or  30  feet  deep,  and  as  we  neared  the  river  they  were  soldered  to- 
gether in  a conglomerate  of  which  lime  was  the  cement. 

We  saw  to-day  on  the  rocks,  other  rude  carvings  of  the  Indians, 
but  their  modern  date  was  apparent. 

To-day  there  was  a dead  calm,  about  meridian  intensely  hot,  and 
the  dust  rose  in  volumes  as  our  party  advanced. 

We  found  the  river  spread  over  a greater  surface,  about  100 
yards  wide,  and  flowing  gently  along  over  a sandy  bottom,  the 
banks  fringed  with  cane,  willow,  and  myrtle. 

Last  night  I took  an  involuntary  plunge  into  it,  for  my  mule 
sunk  in  a quick  sand,  while  I was  searching  for  a place  to  cross  my 
party.  To-night  I took  a swim,  but  found  the.  waters  disagreeably 
cold. 

The  chain  of  broken  hills  still  continued  on  the  north  side,  and 
when  near  our  camp  of  this  date,  circled  in  an  amphitheatre,  with 
its  arch  to  the  north.  The  basaltic  columns,  rising  into  the  shape 
of  spires,  domes,  and  towers,  gave  it  the  apperance,  as  we  ap- 
proached, of  a vast  city  on  the  hills.  The  distance  of  the  crown 

of  this  amphitheatre,  determined  by  angulation,  is miles,  and 

Francisco  informs  me,  that  against  its  north  base  the  Colorado 
strikes.  So  at  this  point,  which  is  about  six  miles  below  our  camp 
of  this  date,  the  Gila  and  Colorado  must  be  near  together.  The 
hills  and  mountains  appeared  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  and 
on  the  plains  could  be  seen,  only  at  long  intervals,  a few  stunted 
tufts  of  larrea  Mexicana,  and  wild  wormwood,  artemisia  cana. 

November  19. — The  table  lands  were  the  same  as  those  des- 
cribed yesterday,  but  the  valley  widens  gradually,  and  for  most  of 
the  way  is  six  or  eight  miles  wide,  and  the  soil  excellent.  Some 
remains  of  former  settlements  in  broken  pottery,  corn  grinders,  &c.; 
but  much  fewer  in  number  than  above.  Nine  miles  from  camp 
a spur  of  mountains  of  an  altered  silicious  sand-stone  came  in  from 
the  southeast,  sharp  as  the  edge  of  a case  knife,  and  shooting  into 
pinnacles.  At  their  base  we  passed  for  half  a mile  over  the  sharp 
edges  of  a red  altered  sandstone,  dipping  southwest  about  80°,  in- 
deed nearly  vertical. 

On  this  spur  was  killed  a mountain  sheep,  one  of  a large  flock, 
from  which  we  named  it  Goat’s  spur.  We  encamped  on  an  island 
where  the  valley  is  contracted  by  sand  buttes  in  what  had  been 
very  recently  the  bed  of  the  river.  It  was  overgrown  with  willow, 
cane,  Gila  grass,  flag  grass,  &c.  The  pools  in  the  old  bed 
of  the  river  were  full  of  ducks,  and  all  night  the  swan,, 
brant,  and  geese,  were  passing,  but  they  were  as  shy  as  if  they  had 
received  their  tuition  on  the  Chesapeake  bay,  where  they  are  con- 
tinually chased  by  sportsmen.  The  whole  island  -was  tremulous 


Mountain.  Goad  demale  . 

Lxthi.'brE.'We'bar  & Co  ,3  alto. 


i 

Head  of 


the 


' . . ■ 


) :i 


m 


vith  the  motion  of  the  mules  grazing,  and  my  observations  were, 
herefore,  not  very  satisfactory. 

11  circum-meridian  altitudes  of  procyon,  and  12  altitudes  of  po- 
aris,  give  the  latitude  of  the  camp,  32°  43'  38". 

November  20. — The  table  lands  were  of  sand,  and  the  bottom  of 
he  river  constantly  received  deposites  from  them,  which  changed  its 
>ed  frequently,  as  might  be  seen  from  the  different  growths  of  cot- 
on wood  marking  the  old  land.  Our  road,  about  five  miles  from 
ast  night’s  camp,  was  traversed  by  a spur  of  coarse  grained  granite 
mderlaid  by  old  red  sandstone  dipping  some  80°  to  the  south  and 
vest.  The  direction  of  the  spur  was  nearly  parallel  to  those  before 
lioted,  northwest  and  southeast,  which  is  the  direction  of  the  axis 

1'f  the  maximum  elevation  of  most  of  the  mountains  traversing  the 
ourse  of  the  Gila. 

Our  camp  was  pitched  on  a little  patch  of  grass,  two  miles  from 
be  river,  night  came  on  before  the  horses  reached  it,  and  they  were 
,/ithout  water  for  twenty-four  hours;  there  was  a pond  near  the 
camp,  but  so  salt  that  the  horses  could  not  drink  it. 

At  noon,  the  thermometer  was  74°,  at  6,  p.  m. , 52°,  and  at  6 
o’clock  the  next  morning,  19°,  which  has  been  about  the  average 
range  of  temperature  for  the  last  two  weeks. 

November  21.- — To-day  we  marched  only  eight  and  a half  miles, 
and  halted  for  a patch  of  grama,  which  was  an  agreeable  and  bene- 
ficial change  to  our  mules,  that  had  been  living  on  cane  and  wil- 
low for  some  days  past. 

1 The  plains  are  now  almost  entirely  of  sand,  and  composed  of 
'sandy  and  calcareous  loam  with  iron  pyrites  and  common  salt,  cov- 
ered sparsely  with  chamiza,  larrea  Mexicana,  and  a shrubby  species 
of  sage,  (salvia.)  . 

I observed  at  night  for  latitude  and  time,  and  there  being  two 
occultations  of  Jupiter’s  satellites,  I was  tempted  to  observe  them 
with  our  inferior  telescope,  which  only  gave  us  another  proof  of  its 
uselessness  for  the  purpose. 

November  22. — Mr.  Warner  and  I started  before  the  advance 
sounded,  and  climbed  the  sharp  spur  of  a continuous  comb  of  moun- 
tains coming  from  the  southeast,  to  try  if  we  could  seethe  Colorado 
of  the  west.  The  mountains  rose  abruptly  from  the  plains  as  they 
mostly  do  in  this  region,  resembling  in  appearance  large  dykes  ter- 
minating at  top  in  a sharp  ridge  which  a man  could,  at  any  part, 
straddle.  They  were  of  hard  granite,  pepper  and  ^lt  colored, 
traversed  by  seams  of  white  quartz.  This  spur  gives  the  river  Gila 
quite  a bend  to  the  north,  and  from  that  point  to  its  mouth,  which 
we  reached  at  night,  the  river  is  straight  in  its  general  direction; 
but  its  course  is  crooked  and  dotted  with  sandbars,  by  incur- 
sions from  the  sandhills  which  now  flank  both  its  sides.  The  sand 
is  brought  down  by  the  winds  from  the  valley  of  the  Colorado. 
Its  volume  seemed,  I think,  a little  diminished,  probably  absorbed 
by  the  sand. 

The  day  was  warm,  the  dust  oppressive,  and  the  march,  twenty- 
two  miles,  very  long  for  our  jaded  and  ill-fed  brutes.  The  gene- 
ral’s horse  gave  out,  and  he  was  obliged  to  mount  his  mule. 


£ 7 ] 94  | 

Most  of  the  men  were  on  foot,  and  a small  party,  composed 
chiefly  of  the  general  and  staff,  were  a long  way  ahead  of  the  j 
straggling  column,  when,  as  we  approached  the  end  of  our  day’s; 
journey,  every  man  was  straightened  in  his  saddle  by  our  suddenly 
falling  on  a camp  which,  from  the  trail,  we  estimated  at  1,000  men,  I 
who  must  have  left  that  morning.  Speculation  was  rife,  but  we  ali 
soon  settled  down  to  the  opinion  that  it  was  General  Castro  and 
his  troops;  that  he  had  succeeded  in  recruiting  an  army  in  Sonora,  j 
and  was  now  on  his  return  to  California.  Carson  expressed  the  j 
belief  that  he  must  be  only  ten  miles  below,  at  the  crossing.  Our  j 
force  consisted  only  of  110  men.  The  general  decided  we  were  too  ; 
few  to  be  attacked,  and  must  be  the  aggressive  party,  and  if  Cas-  ! 
tro’s  camp  could  be  found,  that  he  would  attack  it  the  moment 
night  set  in,  and  beat  them  before  it  was  light  "enough  to  discover 
our  force. 

The  position  of  our  camp  was  decided,  as  usual,  with  reference 
to  the  grass.  The  lives  of  our  animals  were  nearly  as  important 
as  our  own.  It  was  pitched  to-day  in  a little  hollow  encircled  by 
a chain  of  sand  hills,  overgrown  with  mezquite. 

The  sergeant  of  the  general’s  guard  was  behind,  his  mule  having 
broken  down,  and  when  he  came  in  reported  having  seen  two  In- 
dians about  five  miles  back.  For  a short  time  we  supposed  this 
immense  trail  was  a band  of  Indians  returning  from  a successful  i 
marauding  expedition  in  Sonora  or  California;  but  this  conjecture  ; 
was  soon  dispelled  by  the  appearance  of  a mounted  Mexican  on  a j 
sand  butte  overlooking  our  camp,  who,  after  taking  a deliberate 
survey,  disappeared.  The  camp  was  arranged  immediately  for  de-  I 
fence,  and  a cordon  of  sentinels  stationed  on  the  sand  hills. 

The  two  howitzers  did  not  arrive  till  nine  o’clock,  and  the  offi- 
cer in  charge,  Lieutenant  Hammond,  reported  fie  ha’d  seen  large 
fires  to  the  right,  apparently  five  miles  distant,  on  the  opposite  side  j 
of  the  Gila. 

The  general  said  it  was  necessary  for  him  to  know  who  occupied  ! 
the  camp,  its  force,  character,  and  destination. 

He  ordered  me  to  take  my  party  and  fifteen  dragoons,  for  the 
purpose  of  reconnoitering.  After  beating  about  in  the  mezquite 
for  some  time,  we  struck  a slough  of  the  Gila,  where  grew  some  tall 
willows.  Up  one  of  these  I sent  a dragoon,  ^ho  saw  no  fire,  but 
whose  ears  were  gladdened  by  the  neighing  of  horses.  He  slipped 
down  the  tree  much  faster  than  he  climbed  it,  quite  enchanted  with 
the  hope  of  ^changing  his  weary  mule  for  a charger.  Instead  of  re- 
porting what  he  had  seen,  he  exclaimed,  “Yes,  sir,  there  are  enough 
for  us  all.”  “ Did  you  see  the  fires'?”  u No!  but  they  are  all  on 
horses;  I heard  them  neighing,  and  they  cover  much  ground.”  He 
pointed  in  the  direction,  and  after  proceeding  a short  distance,  we 
all  heard  distinctly  the  noise  of  the  horses,  indicating  a large 
number. 

Silence  was  enjoined,  and  we  proceeded  stealthily  along  for  some 
time,  when  a bright  fire  blazed  before  us.  I halted  the  guard,  and 
with  two  dragoons,  Londeau  and  Martinez,  proceeded  unobserved 
until  within  a few  feet  of  the  fire.  Before  it  stood  an  armed  Mex- 


Junction  of  the  Cjila  & Colorado  Rivers. 


95 


m 

ican.  I sent  Londeau  and  Martinez  with  orders  to  assume  the  oc- 
cupation of  trappers,  and  ascertain  whom,  and  what,  the  man  guar-  * 
ded.  The  conference  wTas  short;  other  Mexicans  advanced,  and  I 
sent  in  man  for  man.  It  was  not  Castro,  as  we  expected,  but  a 
party  of  Mexicans  with  500  horses  from  California,  on  their  way 
to  Sonora  for  the  benefit  of  Castro. 

I took  the  four  principal  men  to  the  general,  and  left  a guard  to 
watch  the  camp  and  see  that  no  attempt  was  made  to  escape.  The 
men  were  examined  ^separately,  and  each  gave  a different  account 
of  the  ownership  and  destination  of  the  horses. 

The  chief  of  the  party,  a tall,  venerable  looking  man,  represented 
himself  to  be  a poor  employe  of  several  rich  men  engaged  in  sup- 
plying the  Sonora  market  with  horses.  We  subsequently  learned 
that  he  was  no  less  a personage  than  Jose  Maria  Leguna,  a colonel 
in  the.  Mexican  service. 

November  23. — We  did  not  move  camp  to-day,  in  order  to  make 
a refit  from  last  night’s  capture,  and  give  our  mules  an  opportu- 
nity to  pick  what  little  grass  they  could  before  taking  the  desert 
of  90  miles,  which  lies  on  the  other  side  of  the  Colorado,  and  be- 
tween us  and  water. 

Warner,  Stanley,  and  myself,  saddled  up  to  visit  the  junction  of 
the  Gila  and  Colorado,  which  we  found  due  north  from  ouf  camp, 
and  about  a mile  and  a half  distant.  The  day  was  stormy,  the 
wind  blowing  fiercely  from  the  north.  We  mounted  a butte  of 
feldspathic  granite,  and,  looking  25°  east  of  north,  the  course  of 
the  Colorado  was  tracked  by  clouds  of  flying  sand.  The  Gila 
comes  into  it  nearly  at  right  angles,  and  the  point  of  junction, 
strangely  chosen,  is  the  hard  butte  through  which,  with  their  uni- 
ted forces  they  cut  a canon,  and  then  flow  off  due  magnetic  west, 
in  a direction  of  the  resultant  due  to  the  relative  strength  of  the 
rivers. 

The  walls  of  the  canon  are  vertical,  and  about  50  feet  high,  and 
1,000  feet  long.  Almost  before  entering  the  canon,  in  descending 
the  Gila,  its  sea-green  waters  are  lost  in  the  chrome  colored  hue  of 
the  Colorado.  For  a distance  of  three  or  four  miles  below  the 
junction,  the  river  is  perfectly  straight,  and  about  600  feet  wide; 
and  up,  at  least,  to  this  point,  there  is  little  doubt  that  the  Colo- 
rado is  always  navigable  for  steamboats.  Above,  the  Colorado  is 
full  of  shifting  sandbars,  but  is,  no  doubt,  to  a great  extent  sus- 
ceptible of  navigation. 

The  Gila,  at  certain  stages,  might  be  navigated  up  to  the  Pimos 
village,  and  possibly  with  small  boats  at  all  stages  of  water. 

Near  the  junction,  on  the  north  side,  are  the  remains  of  an  old 
Spanish  church,  built  near  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century,  by 
the  renowned  missionary,  Father  Kino.  This  mission  was  eventu- 
ally sacked  by  the  Indians,  and  the  inhabitants  all  murdered  or 
driven  off.  It  will  probably  yet  be  the  seat  of  a city  of  wealth 
and  importance,  most  of  the  mineral  and  fur  regions  of  a vast  ex- 
tent of  country  being  drained  by  the  two  rivers.  The  stone  butte 
through  which  they  have  cut  their  passage  is  not  more  than  a mile 
in  length.  The  Gila  once  flowed  to  the  south,  and  the  Colorado 


96 


m . . s 

to  the  north  of  this  butte,  and  the  point  of  junction  was  below.; 
What  freak  of  nature  united  their  efforts  in  forcing  the  butte,  is 
difficult  to  say.  During  freshets,  it  is  probable  the  rivers  now  dis- 
charge their  surplus  waters  through  these  old  channels.  Francisco 
informs  me  that  the  Colorado,  seven  days’  travel  up  from  the  butte, 
continues  pretty  much  as  we  saw  it. 

There  a canon-  is  reached  impassable  for  horses  or  canoes.  The 
country  between  is  settled  by  the  Coyotaros,  or  wolf-eaters,  cochin - 
cans , (dirty  fellows,)  Los  Tontears,  Or  fools,  and  the  Garroteros,  or 
club  Indians.  These  cultivate  melons,  beans,  and  maize. 

On  our  return  we  met  a Mexican,  well  mounted  and  muffled  in 
his  blanket.  I asked  him  where  he  was  going;  he  said,  to  hunt 
horses.  As  he  passed,  I observed  in  each  of  his  holsters  the  neck 
of  a bottle,  and  on  his  croup  a fresh  made  sack,  with  other  eviden- 
ces of  a preparation  for  a journey.  Much  against  his  taste,  I in- 
vited him  to  follow  me  to  camp;  several  times  he  begged  me  to  let 
him  go  for  a moment,  that  he  would  soon  return.  His  anxiety  to 
be  released  increased  my  determination  not  fo  comply  with  his  re- 
quest. I took  him  to  General  Kearny  and  explained  to  him  the 
suspicious  circumstances  under  which  I had  taken  him,  and  that 
his  capture  would  prove  of  some  importance.  He  was  immediately 
searched,  and  in  his  wallet  was  found  the  mail  from  California, 
which  was  of  course  opened. 

Among  the  letters  was  one  addressed  to  General  Jose  Castro,  at 
Alta,  one  to  Antonio  Castro,  and  others  to  men  of  note  in  Sonora. 
All  suspected  of  relating  to  public  affairs  were  read,  and  we  ascer- 
tained from  them  that  a counter  revolution  had  taken  place  in  Cal- 
ifornia, that  the  Americans  were  expelled  from  Santa  Barbara, 
Puebla  de  los  Angeles,  and  other  places,  and  that  Robideaux,  the 
brother  of  our  interpreter,  who  had  been  appointed  alcalde  by  the 
Americans,  was  a prisoner  in  jail.  They  all  spoke  exultingly  of 
having  thrown  off  u the  detestable  Anglo-Yankee  yoke,”  and  con- 
gratulated themselves  that  the  tri-color  once  more  floated  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

Captain  Flores  was  named  as  the  general  and  governor, pro  tern., 
and  the  enthusiasm  of  the  people  described  as  overflowing  in  the 
cause  of  emancipation  from  the  Yankee  yoke.  One  letter  gave  a 
minute  and  detailed  account  of  a victory  stated  to  have  been  ob- 
tained over  the  Americans.  It  stated  that  450  men  landed  at  San 
Pedro,  and  were  met,  defeated,  and  driven  back  to  the  fort  at  San 
Pedro.  This  last  was  attributed  by  us  to  Mexican  braggadocio,  as 
it  is  usual  with  them  to  represent  their  defeats  as  victories;  but 
that  there  was  a disturbance  of  a serious  kind  in  the  province,  we 
could  not  doubt,  from  the  uniformity  of  the  accounts  on  that  head. 
We  also  learned  that  the  horses  captured  were  in  part  for  General 
Castro.  Nothing  more  was  wanting  to  legitimize  our  capture,  and 
Captain  Moore  was  directed  to  remount  his  men. 

The  letters  contained  precise  information,  but  being  dated  so  far 
back  as  the  15th  October,  left  us  in  great  doubt  as  to  the  real  state 
of  affairs  in  California,  and  the  Mexicans  played  their  parts  so 
dexterously.it  was  not  in  our  power  to  extract  the  truth  from  them. 


The  f ‘ire_ jjJ a<-i_e ijock 


f 


I 


f 


J 


V 


Lath  by  E Weber  fc  Co.3sdto 


97 


[7] 

One  of  the  party,  who  had  received  some  little  favor  from  Carson 
in  California,  was  well  plied  with  brandy,  but  all  that  could  be 
extorted  from  him  was  the  advice  that  we  should  not  think  of  going 
to  the  Puebla  with  our  small  force,  counsel  that  our  friend  soon 
learned  we  had  not  the  slightest  intention  of  following. 

The  position  of  our  camp,  about  one  mile  and  a half  south  of  the 
junction  of  the  Colorado  and  Gila  rivers,  determined  by  12  circum- 
meridian  altitudes  of  sirius,  6 of  saturn,  and  12  altitudes  of  polaris 
is  latitude  32°  42'  09".  The  longitude  by  one  set  of  lunar  dis- 
tances, E.  and  W.,  114°  37'  09",  which  agrees  with  the  chronome- 
tric  determination  of  the  same  place,  determined  by  assuming  the 
longitude  of  San  Diego  to  be  117°  11'. 

The  clouds,  together  with  my  military  duties,  interfered  with 
taking  a more  elaborate  set  of  lunar  distances.  An  inspection  of 
the  individual  observations  for  latitude  will  show  that  the  latitude 
of  the  camp  may  be  relied  on,  but  I regret  it  was  not  in  my  power 
to  measure  the  exact  distance  of  our  camp  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Gila. 

At  night,  passing  my  arm  over  the  surface  of  the  fur  robe  in 
which  I was  enveloped,  electric  sparks  were  discharged  in  such 
quantities  as  to  make  a very  luminous  appearance,  and  a noise  like 
the  rattle  of  a snake. 

November  24. — We  visited  the  camp  of  our  Mexican  friends, 
whom  the  general  determined  to  release,  and  found  there  was  a 
woman  with  the  party  in  the  agonies  of  childbirth.  She  was  at 
once  furnished  from  our  stores  with  all  the  comforts  we  possessed. 
This  poor  creature  had  been  dragged  along,  in  her  delicate  situa- 
tion, over  a fearful  desert. 

The  captured  horses  were  all  wild  and  but  little  adapted  for  im- 
mediate service,  but  there  was  rare  sport  in  catching  them,  and  we 
saw  for  the  first  time  the  lazo  thrown  with  inimitable  skill.  It  is 
a saying  in  Chihuahua  that  u a Californian  can  throw  the  lazo  as 
well  with  his  foot  as  a Mexican  can  with  his  hand,”  and  the  scene 
before  us  gave  us  an  idea  of  its  truth.  There  was  a wild  s+allion 
of  great  beauty  which  defied  the  fleetest  horse  and  the  most  expert 
rider.  At  length  a boy  of  fourteen,  a Californian,  whose  graceful 
riding  was  the  constant  subject  of  admiration,  piqued  by  repeated 
failures,  mounted  a fresh  horse,  and,  followed  by  an  Indian, 
launched  fiercely  at  the  stallion. 

His  lareat  darted  from  his  hand  with  the  force  and  precision  of 
a rifle  ball,  and  rested  on  the  neck  of  the  fugitive;  the  Indian,  at 
the  same  moment,  made  a successful  throw,  but  the  stallion  was 
too  stout  for  both,  and  dashed  off  at  full  speed,  with  both  ropes  fly- 
in  the  air  like  wings.  The  perfect  representation  of  Pegasus,  he 
took  a sweep,  and  followed  by  his  pursuers,  came  thundering  down 
the  dry  bed  of  the  river.  The  lazos  were  now  trailing  on  the 

ground,  and  ' the  gallant  young  Spaniard,  taking  advantage  of  the 

circumstance,  stooped  from  his  flying  horse  and  caught  one  in  his 
hand.  It  was  the  work  of  a moment  to  make  it  fast  to  the  pommel 
of  his  saddle,  and  by  a short  turn  of  his  own  horse,  he  threw  the 
stallion  a complete  somerset,  and  the  game  was  secure. 

7 

' 


98 


[7] 


We  traveled  over  a sandy  plain  a few  miles,  and  descended  into 
the  wide  bed  of  the  Colorado,  overgrown  thickly  with  mezquite,  i 
willow,  and  cotton  wood;  after  making  about  ten  miles,  we  en-  | 
camped  abreast  of  the  ford  on  a plateau  covered  with  young  wil- 
lows, of  which  our  horses  were  to  lay  in  a sufficient  supply  to  last 
them  over  the  desert.  Since  waiting  the  above,  we  have  found  a 
good  patch  of  grass,  and  our  people  have  been  ordered  to  cut  a ra- 
tion for  each  mule  to  carry  along. 

The  night  was  excessiv-ely  cold  and  damp,  and  in  the  morning 
our  blankets  were  covered  with  a little  dew.  For  the  first  time, 
the  bugle  calls  were  distinctly  reverberated,  showing  the  atmos- 
pheric change  as  we  approach  the  coast,  and  descend  into  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  sea  level.  In  New  Mexico,  even  when  surrounded 
by  hills  and  perpendicular  walls,  the  report  of  fire  arms,  and  the 
sound  of  the  bugle,  were  unattended  by  any  distinct  echo.  The 
reports  were  sharp  and  unpleasant,  not  rounded,  as  here,  by  the 
reverberation. 

The  country,  from  the  Arkansas  to  this  point,  more  than  1,200 
miles,  in  its  adaptation  to  agriculture,  has  peculiarities  which  must 
forever  stamp  itself  upon  the  population  which  inhabits  it.  All  of 
North  Mexico,  embracing  New  Mexico,  Chihuahua,  Sonora,  and 
the  Californias,  as  far  north  as  the  Sacramento,  are,  as  far  as  the 
best  information  goes,  the  same  in  the  physical  character  of  its  sur- 
face, and  differ  but  little  in  climate  or  products. 

In  no  part  of  this  vast  tract  can  the  rains  from  Heaven  be  relied 
upon,  to  any  extent,  for  the  cultivation  of  the  soil.  The  earth  is 
destitute  of  trees,  and  in  great  part  also  of  any  vegetation  whatever. 

A few  feeble  streams  flow  in  different  directions  from  the  great 
mountains,  which  in  many  places  traverse  this  region.  These 
streams  are  separated,  sometimes  by  plains,  and  sometimes  by 
mountains,  without  water  and  without  vegetation,  and  may  be 
called  deserts,  so  far  as  they  perform  any  useful  part  in  the  suste- 


nance of  animal  life. 

The  cultivation  of  the  earth  is  therefore  confined  to  those  nar- 
row strips  of  land  which  are  within  the  level  of  the  waters  of  the 
streams,  and  wherever  practised  in  a community  with  any  success, 
or  to  any  extent,  involves  a degree  of  subordination,  and  absolute 
obedience  to  a chief,  repugnant  to  the  habits  of  our  people. 

The  chief  who  directs  the  time  and  the  quantity  of  the  precious 
irrigating  water  must  *be  implicitly  obeyed  by  the  whole  commu- 
nity. A departure  from  his  orders,  by  the  waste  of  water,  or  un- 
just distribution  of  it,  or  neglect  to  make  the  proper  embankments, 
may  endanger  the  means  of  subsistence  of  many  people.  He  must 
therefore  be  armed  with  power  to  punish  promptly  and  immediately. 

The  profits  of  labor  are  too  inadequate  for  the  existence  of  negro 
slavery.  Slavery,  as  practised  by  the  Mexicans,  under  the  form  of 
peonage,  which  enables  their  master  to  get  the  services  of  the  adult 
while  in  the  prime  of  life,  without  the  obligation  of  rearing  him  in 
infancy,  supporting  him  in  old  age,  or  maintaining  his  family,  af- 
fords no  data  for  estimating  the  profits  of  slave  labor,  as  it  exists 
in  the  United  States. 


99 


[7]i 

No  one  who  has  ever  visited  this  country,  and  who  is  acquainted 
with  the  character  and  value  of  slave  labor  in  the  United  States, 
wottld  ever  think  of  bringing  his  own  slaves  here  with  any  view  to 
profit,  much  less  would  he  purchase  slaves  for  such  a purpose. 
Their  labor  here,  if  they  could  be  retained  as  slaves,  among  peons, 
nearly  of  their  own  color,  would  never  repay  the  cost  of  transport- 
ation, much  less  the  additional  purchase  money. 

I made  many  inquiries  as  to  the  character  of  the  vast  region  of 
country  embraced  in  the  triangle,  formed  by  the  Colorado  of  the 
west,  the  Del  Norte,  and  the  Gila;  and  the  information  collected, 
will,  at  some  future  time,  be  thrown  into  notes  for  the  benefit  of 
future  explorers,  but  are  not  given  in  this  work,  as  I profess  to 
write  only  of  what  I saw. 

From  all  that  I learn,  the  country  does  not  differ,  materially,  in 
its  physical  character  from  New  Mexico,  except,  perhaps,  being  less 
denuded  of  soil  and  vegetation.  The  sources  of  the  Salinas,  the 
San  Francisco,  Azul,  San  Carlos,  and  Prierte,  tributaries  of  the 
Gila,  take  their  rise  in  it.  About  their  head  waters,  and  occasion- 
ally along  their  courses,  are  presented  sections  of  land  capable  of 
irrigation. 

The  whole  extent,  except  on  the  margin  of  streams,  is  said  to  be 
destitute  of  forest  trees.  The  Apaches,  a very  numerous  race,  and 
the  Navajoes,  are  the  chief  occupants,  but  there  are  many  minor 
bands,  who,  unlike  the  Apaches  and  Navajoes,  are  not  nomadic, 
but  have  fixed  habitations.  Amongst  the  most  remarkable  of  these 
are  the  Soones,  most  of  whom  are  said  to  be  Albinos.  The  latter 
cultivate  the  soil,  and  live  in  peace  with  their  more  numerous  and 
savage  neighbors. 

Departing  from  the  ford  of  the  Colorado  in  the  direction  of  So- 
nora, there  is  a fearful  desert  to  encounter.  Alta,  a small  town, 
with  a Mexican  garrison,  is  the  nearest  settlement. 

All  accounts  concur  in  representing  the  journey  as  one  of  ex- 
treme hardship,  and  even  peril.  The  distance  is  not  exactly  known, 
but  it  is  variously  represented  at  from  four  to  seven  day’s  journey. 
Persons  bound  for  Sonora  from  California,  who  do  not  mind  a cir- 
cuitous route,  should  ascend  the  Gila  as  far  as  the  Pimos  village, 
and  thence  penetrate  the  province  by  way  of  Tucsoon. 

November  25. — At  the  ford,  the  Colorado  is  1,500  feet  wide,  and 
flows  at  the  rate  of  a mile  and  a half  per  hour.  Its  greatest  depth 
in  the  channel,  at  the  ford  where  we  crossed,  is  four  feet,  h he 
banks  are  low,  not  more  than  four  feet  high,  and,  judging  from  in- 
dications, sometimes,  though  not  frequently,  overflowed.  Its  gen- 
eral appearance  at  this  point  is  much  like  that  of  the  Arkansas, 
with  its  turbid  waters  and  many  shifting  sand  islands. 

The  ford  is  entered  at  the  lower  extremity  of  the  plateau  upon 
which  we  encamped,  and  leads  down  the  river,  crossing  three  sand 
islands,  which  we  sketched,  but  as  they  are  constantly  shift  ng, 
will  perhaps  afford  no  guide  to  the  traveller,  and  may  even  lead 
him  into  error.  They  are  therefore  not  furnished.  The  ford  is 
narrow  and  circuitous,  and  a few  feet  to  the  right  or  left  sets  a 
horse  afloat.  This  happened  to  my  own  horse. 


r 


Report  makes  the  distance  of  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado,  from 
the  crossing,  eighty  miles,  but  unless  the  river  is  very  crooked,  this 
cannot  be;  Lieut.  Hardy,  of  the  royal  navy,  determined  the  mouth 
to  be  in  latitude  31°  51/  north,  and  longitude  114°  l7. 

The  growth  on  the  river  bottom  is  cotton  wood,  willow  of  differ- 
ent kinds,  equisetum  hyemale,  (scouring  rush,)  and  a nutritious 
grass  in  small  quantities. 

After  crossing,  we  ascended  the  river  three  quarters  of  a mile, 
where  we  encountered  an  immense  sand  drift,  and  from  that  point 
until  we  halted,  the  great  highway  between  Sonora  and  California 
lies  along  the  foot  of  this  drift,  which  is  continually  but  slowly 
encroaching  down  the  valley.  Prosopis  glandulosa,  wild  sage,  and 
ephedra  compose  the  growth;  the  first  is  luxuriant. 

We  halted  at  a dry  arroyo,  a few  feet  to  the  left  of  the  road, 
leading  into  the  Colorado,  where  there  was  a hole  five  or  six  feet 
deep,  which  by  deepening  furnished  sufficient  water  for  the  men. 

We  are  yet,  by  the  indication  of  the  barometer,  but  20  or  30  feet 
above  the  river,  and  wThere  the  sands  from  the  desert  to  the  north 
have  not  encroached,  the  soil  appears  good.  There  are  remains  of 
zequias  about  five  miles  back,  and  where  we  halted,  the  remains  of 
Indian  settlements,  but  it  is  probable  the  water  has  been  cut  off  by 
the  drift,  and  cannot  now  be  brought  from  the  river  above. 

I made  observations  at  night  for  time  and  latitude,  and  found  the 
position  of  the  place  to  be  north  latitude  32°  407  22",  and  longitude 
114°  56'  28",  west  of  Greenwich. 

We  tied  our  animals  to  the  mezquite  trees,  (prosopis  glandulosa,) 
and  remarking  on  the  way  that  they  showed  an  inclination  to  eat 
the  bean  of  this  plant,  we  sent  the  men  to  collect  them;  the  few 
gathered  were  eaten  with  avidity. 

November  26. — The  dawn  of  day  found  every  man  on  horseback, 
and  a bunch  of  grass  from  the  Colorada  tied  behind  him  on  the 
cantle  of  his  saddle.  After  getting  well  under  way,  the  keen  air 
at  26°  Fahrenheit  made  it  most  comfortable  to  walk.  We  traveled 
four  miles  along  the  sand  butte,  in  the  same  direction  as  yesterday, 
about  south  75°  west,  (magnetic,)  we  mounted  the  buttes  and  found, 
after  a short  distance,  a firmer  footing  covered  with  fragments  of 
lava,  rounded  by  water,  and  many  agates.  We  were  now  fairly 
on  the  desert. 

Our  course  now  inclined  a few  degrees  more  to  the  north,  and  at 
10,  a.  m. , we  found  a large  patch  of  grama,  where  we  halted  for  an 
hour,  and  then  pursued  our  way  over  the  plains  covered  with  frag- 
ments of  lava,  traversed  at  intervals  by  sand  buttes,  until  4 p.  m. , 
when,  after  travelling  24  miles,  wTe  reached  the  Alamo  or  cotton 
wood.  At  this  point,  the  captured  Spaniards  informed  us,  that 
failing  to  find  water,  they  had  gone  a.  league  to  the  west,  in  pur- 
suit of  their  horses,  where  they  found  a running  stream.  We  ac- 
cordingly sent  parties  to  search,  but  neither  the  water  nor  their  trail 
could  be  found. 

Neither  was  there  any  cottonwood  at  the  Alamo,  as  its  name 
would  signify;  but  Francisco  said  that  it  was  nevertheless  the  place, 
the  tree  having  probably  been  covered  by  the  encroachments  of  the 


sand,  which  here  terminates  in  a bluff  40  feet  high,  making  the  arc 
of  a great  circle  convexing  to  the  north. 

Descending  this  bluff,  we  found  in  what  had  been  the  channel  of 
a stream,  now  overgrown  with  a few  ill-conditioned  mezquite,  a 
large  hole  where  persons  had  evidently  dug  for  water.  It  was  ne- 
cessary  to  halt  to  rest  our  animals,  and  the  time  was  occupied  in 
deepening  this  hole,  which  after  a long  struggle,  showed  signs  of 
water.  An  old  champagne  basket,  used  by  one  of  the  officers  as  a 
pannier,  was  lowered  in  the  hole,  to  prevent  the  crumbling  of  the 
sand.  After  many  efforts  to  keep  out  the  caving  sand,  a basket- 
work  of  willow  twigs  effected  the  object,  and  much  to  the  joy  of 
all,  the  basket,  which  was  now  15  or  20  feet  below  the  surface^ 
filled  with  water.  The  order  was  now  given  for  each  mess  to  draw 
a camp-kettle  of  water,  and  Captain  Turner  was  placed  in  charge 
of  the  spring,  to  see  fair  distribution. 

When  the  messes  were  supplied,  the  firmness  of  the  banks  gave 
hopes  that  the  animals  tnight  be  watered,  and  each  party  was  noti- 
fied to  have  their  animals  in  waiting;  the  important  business  of  wa- 
tering then  commenced,  upon  the  success  of  which  depended  the 
possibility  of  their  advancing  with  us  a foot  further. 

Two  buckets  for  each  animal  were  allowed.  At  10,  a.  m. , when 
my  turn  came,  Captain  Moore  had  succeeded,  by  great  exertions,  in 
opening  another  well,  and  the  one  already  opened  began  to  flow 
more  freely,  in  consequence  of  which,  we  could  afford  to  give  each 
animal  as  much  as  he  could  drink.  The  poor  brutes,  none  of 
which  had  tasted  water  in  forty-eight  hours,  and  some  not  for  the 
last  sixty,  clustered  round  the  well  and  scrambled  for  precedence. 

At  12  o’clock  I had  watered  all  my  animals,  thirty-seven  in  num- 
ber, and  turned  over  the  well  to  Capta;n  Moore. 

The  animals  still  had  an  aching  void  to  fill,  and  all  night  was 
heard  the  munching  of  sticks,  and  their  piteous  cries  for  more  con- 
genial food. 

November  27  and  28.— -To-day  we  started  a few  minutes  after  sun- 
rise. Our  course  was  a winding  one,  to  avoid  the  sand-drifts. 
The  Mexicans  had  informed  us  that  the  waters  of  the  salt  lake? 
some  thirty  or  forty  miles  distant,  were  too  salt  to  use,  but  other 
information  led  us  to  think  the  intelligence  Avas  wrong.  We  ac- 
cordingly tried  to  reach  it;  about  3,  p.  m. , we  disengaged  ourselves 
from  the  sand  and  went  due  (magnetic)  west,  over  an  immense 
level  of  clay  detritus,  hard  and  smooth  as  a bowling  green. 

The  desert  was  almost  destitute  oi  vegetation,  now  and,  then  an 
ephedra,  cenothera,  or  bunches  of  aristida  were  seen,  and  occa- 
sionally the  level  was  covered  with  a growth  of  obione  canescens3 
and  a low  bush  with  small  oval  plaited  leaves,  unknown. 

The  heavy  sand  had  proved  too  much  for  many  horses  and  some 
mules,  and  all  the  efforts  of  their  drivers  could  bring  them  no  far- 
ther than  the  middle  of  this  dreary  desert.  About  8 o’clock,  as 
we  approached  the  lake,  the  stench  of  dead  animals  confirmed  the 
reports  of  the  Mexicans,  and  put  to  flight  all  hopes  of  our  being 
able  to  use  the  water. 

The  basin  of  the  lake,  as  Avell  as  I could  judge  at  night,  is  about 


102 


m 

three-quarters  of  a mile  long  and  half  a mile  wide.  The  water  had 
receded  to  a pool,  diminished  to  one-half  its  size,  and  the  approach 
to  it  was  through  a thick  soapy  quagmire.  It  was  wholly  unfit  for 
man  or  brute,  and  we  studiously  kept  the  latter  from  it,  thinking 
that  the  use  of  it  would  but  aggravate  their  thirst. 

One  or  two  of  the  men  came  in  late  and,  rushing  to  the  lake, 
threw  themselves  down  and  took  many  swallows  before  discovering 
their  mistake;  but  the  effect  was  not  injurious  except  that  it  in- 
creased their  thirst. 

At  the  point  where  we  left  the  sand,  sketches  were  taken  of  the 
objects  by  which  our  pilot  wended  his  way;  these  may  serve  to 
guide  future  travellers.  From  this  point  the  traveller  may  go  di- 
rectly to  the  gap  exhibited  in  the  sketch,  nearly  magnetic  west, 
through  which  the  trail  passes. 

A few  mezquite  trees  and  a chenopodiaceous  shrub  bordered  the 
lake,  and  on  these  our  mules  munched  till  they  had  sufficiently  re- 
freshed themselves,  when  the  call  to  saddle'  was  sounded,  and  we 
groped  silently  our  way  in  the  dark.  The  stoutest  animals  now 
began  to  stagger,  and  when  day  dawned,  scarcely  a man  was  seen 
mounted. 

With  the  sun  rose  a heavy  fog  from  the  southwest,  no  doubt 
from  the  gulf,  and  sweeping  towards  us,  enveloped  us  for  two  or 
three  hours,  wetting  our  blankets  and  giving  relief  to  the  animals. 
Before  it  had  dispersed  we  came  to  a patch  of  sun-burned  grass. 

When  the  fog  had  entirely  dispersed  we  found  ourselves  entering 
a gap  in  the  mountains,  which  had  been  before  us  for  four  days. 
The  plain  was  crossed,  but  we  had  not  yet  found  water.  The  first 
valley  we  reached  was  dry,  and  it  was  not  till  12  o’clock,  m.,  that 
we  struck  the  Cariso  (cane)  creek,  within  half  a mile  of  one  of 
its  sources,  and  although  so  close  to  the  source,  the  sands  had  al- 
ready absorbed  much  of  its  water,  and  left  but  little  running.  A 
mile  or  two  below,  the  creek  entirely  disappears. 

We  halted,  having  made  fifty-four  miles  in  the  two  days,  at  the 
source,  a magnificent  spring,  twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  diameter, 
highly  impregnated  with  sulphur,  and  medicinal  in  its  properties. 
No  vessel  could  be  procured  to  bring  home  some  of  the  water  for 
analysis,  but  I scraped  a handful  of  the  salt  wffiich  had  effloresced 
to  the  surface  of  the  adjacent  ground,  and  Professor  Frazer  finds  it 
to  contain  sulphate  of  lime,  magnesia,  and  chloride  of  sodium. 

The  spring  consisted  of  a series  of  smaller  springs  or  veins, 
varying  in  temperature  from  68°  to  75°.  This  variation,  however, 
may  have  been  owing  to  the  different  exposures  of  the  fountains  in 
which  the  thermometer  was  immersed.  The  growth  was  cane,  rush, 
and  a coarse  grass,  such  as  is  found  on  the  marshes  near  the  sea 
shore. 

The  desert  over  which  we  had  passed,  ninety  miles  from  water 
to  water,  is  an  immense  triangular  plain,  bounded  on  one  side  by 
the  Colorado,  on  the  west  by  the  Cordilleras  of  California,  the 
coast  chain  of  mountains  which  now  encircles  us,  extending  from 
the  Sacramento  river  to  the  southern  extremity  of  Lower  Califor- 
nia, and  on  the  northeast  by  a chain  of  mountains,  a continuation  of 


103  [ 7 ] 

the  same  spur  noted  on  the  22d  as  running  southeast  and  northwest. 
It  is  chiefly  covered  with  floating  sand,  the  surface  of  which  in 
various  places,  is  white  with  diminutive  spinelas,  and  every  where 
over  the  whole  surface  is  found  the  large  and  soft  muscle  shell. 

I have  noted  the  only  two  patches  of  grass  found  during  the 
u jornada.”  There  were  scattered,  at  wide  intervals,  the  palafoxia 
linearis,  atriplex,  encelia  farinosa,  daleas,  euphorbias,  and  a simsia, 
described  by  Dr.  Torrey  as  a new  species  without  rays. 

The  southern  termination  of  this  desert  is  bounded  by  the  Tecate 
chain  of  mountains  and  the  Colorado;  but  its  northern  and  eastern 
boundaries  are  undefined,  and  I should  suppose  from  the  accounts 
of  trappers,  and  others,  who  have  attempted  the  passage  from  Cali- 
fornia to  the  Gila  by  a more  northern  route,  that  it  extends  many 
days’  travel  beyond  the  chain  of  barren  mountains  which  bound 
the  horizon  in  that  direction. 

The  portal  to  the  mountains  through  which  we  passed,  was  formed 
by  immense  buttes  of  yellow  clay  and  sand,  with  large  flakes  of 
mica  and  seams  of  gypsum.  Nothing  could  be  more  forlorn  and 
desolate  in  appearance.  The  gypsum  had  given  some  consistency 
to  the  sand  buttes  which  were  washed  into  fantastic  figures.  One 
ridge  formed  apparently  a complete  circle,  giving  it  the  appear- 
ance of  a crater;  and  although  some  miles  to  the  left,  I should 
have  gone  to  visit  it,  supposing  it  to  be  a crater,  but  my  mule  was 
sinking  with  thirst,  and  water  was  yet  at  some  distance.  Many 
animals  were  left  on  the  road  to  die  of  thirst  and  hunger,  in  spite 
of  the  generous  efforts  of  the  men  to  bring  them  to  the  spring. 
More  than  one  was  brought  up,  by  one  man  tugging  at  the  halter  and 
another  pushing  up  the  brute,  by  placing  his  shoulder  against  its 
buttocks.  Our  most  serious  loss,  perhaps,  was  that  of  one  or  two 
fat  mares  and  colts  brought  with  us  for  food;  for  before  leaving 
camp,  Major  Swords  found  in  a concealed  place  one  of  the  best 
pack  mules  slaughtered,  and  the  choice  bits  cut  from  his  shoulders 
and  flanks,  stealthily  done  by  some  mess  less  provident  than  others. 

I observed  at  night  for  time  and  latitude;  for  longitude  by  meas- 
uring 18  distances  between  the  d and  aldebaran,  and  the  d and 
fomaihaut. 

Latitude  32°  52'  33".  Longitude  116°  06'  09". 

November  29. — The  grass  at  the  spring  was  anything  but  desir- 
able for  our  horses,  and  there  was  scarcely  a ration  left  for  the 
men.  This  last  consideration  would  not  prevent  our  giving  the 
horses  a day’s  rest  wherever  grass  could  be  found.  We  followed 
the  dry  sandy  bed  of  the  Cariso  nearly  all  day,  at  a snail’s  pace, 
and  at  length  reached  the  “little  pools”  where  the  grass  was  lux- 
uriant but  very  salt.  The  water  strongly  resembled  that  at  the 
head  of  the  Cariso  creek,  and  the  earth,  which  was  very  tremulous 
for  many  acres  about  the  pools,  was  covered  with  salt. 

This  valley  is  at  no  point  more  than  half  a mile  wide,  and  on 
each  side  are  mountains  of  grey  granite  and  pure  quartz,  rising 
from  1,000  to  3,000  feet  above  it. 

A few  miles  from  the  spring  called  Ojo  Grande,  at  the  head  of 
the  creek,  several  scattered  objects  were  seen  projected  against  the 


[.7  ] 104 

cliffs,  hailed  by  the  Florida  campaigners,  some  of  whom  were  along, 
as  old  friends.  They  were  cabbage  trees,  and  marked  the  locale  of 
a spring  and  a small  patch  of  grass.  We  found  also  to-day,  in  full 
bloom,  the  bronnia  spinosa,  a rare  and  beautiful  plant;  the  plan- 
tago,  new  to  our  flora;  a new  species  of  eriogonum,  very  remark- 
able for  its  extremely  numerous  long  hair-like  fruit  stalks  and  mi- 
nute flowers. 

We  rode  for  miles  through  thickets  of  the  centennial  plant, 
agave  Americana,  and  found  one  in  full  bloom.  The  sharp  thorns 
terminating  every  leaf  of  this  plant,  were  a great  annoyance  to  our 
dismounted  and  wearied  men  whose  legs  were  now  almost  bare.  A 
number  of  these  plants  were  cut  by  the  soldiers,  and  the  body  of 
them  used  as  food.  The  day  was  intensely  hot,  and  the  sand  deep; 
the  animals,  inflated  with  water  and  rushes,  gave  way  by  scores; 
and,  although  we  advanced  only  sixteen  miles,  many  did  not  ar- 
rive at  camp  until  10  o’clock  at  night.  It  was  a feast  day  for  the 
wolves,  which  followed  in  packs  close  on  our  track,  seizing  our  de- 
serted brutes  and  making  the  air  resound  with  their  howls  as  they 
battled  for  the  carcasses. 

The  water  comes  to  the  surface  in  pools  at  this  place.  It  is  a 
valley  surrounded  by  high  bleak  mountains  destitute  of  vegetation. 
The  mountains  are  of  a micaceous  granite  seamed  wTith  volcanic 
matter.  The  grass,  which  is  coarse,  extends  for  a mile  or  two 
along  the  valley. 

A heavy  cloud  overhung  the  mountains  to  the  west,  and  the  wind 
blew  a hurricane  from  that  quarter;  yet  our  zenith  was  never  ob- 
scured, except  for  a minute  at  a time  by  a fleeting  cloud  detached 
from  the  great  bank.  A horse  was  killed  for  food,  which  was 
eaten  with  great  appetite,  and  all  of  it  consumed. 

November  30. — Notwithstanding  the  water  was  saltish  and  in 
pools,  and  the  grass  unfavorable  to  the  horses,  yet  we  were  com- 
pelled to  avail  ourselves  of  it  for  a day  to  recruit.  The  day  and 
night  were  very  unpleasant,  from  the  high  wind  which,  came  over 
the  snow-clad  mountains  to  the  west.  The  ground,  too,  was  trem- 
ulous, and  my  observations  for  time,  by  which  I hoped  to  obtain 
the  rate  of  my  chronometers,  were  not  such  as  I could  desire. 

December  1. — We  ascended  the  valley,  now  destitute  of  both 
grass  and  water,  to  its  termination,  and  then  descended  to  the  deserted 
Indian  village  of  San  Felippe.  The  mountains  on  either  side  are 
lofty,  I suppose  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet  high,  and  those  to  the 
west  encrusted  on  the  top  with  snow  and  icicles.  Our  camp  was 
in  a long  field  of  grass,  three  or  four  miles  in  extent,  through 
which  a warm  stream  flowed  and  drained  through  a canon  to  the 
north,  abreast  of  the  village.  We  went  to  the  barren  hills  and 
collected  the  dry  sage  and  scrub  mezquit'e,  with  which  we  made  a 
feeble  fire.  The  larrea  Mexicana  grew  here  also,  but  it  is  unfit  for 
fuel. 

About  nine  miles  from  the  camp,  we  passed  the  summit  which  is 
said  to  divide  the  waters  flowing  into  the  Colorado  from  those 
flowing  into  the  Pacific,  but  I think  it  is  a mistake.  The  pass  is 
much  below  the  peaks  on  either  side,  and  the  height  gives  no  indi- 


105 


i- 

t,i 

IS 

tr 

1 

if 

i 

J 

e 

! 

1 


[7] 

cation  of  the  elevation  of  the  range,  and,  indeed,  the  barometric 
reading  was  but  an  indifferent  index  of  the  height  of  the  pass,  as 
the  day  was  stormy.  We  are  still  to  look  for  the  glowing  pictures 
drawn  of  California.  As  yet,  barrenness  and  desolation  hold  their 
reign.  We  longed  to  stumble  upon  the  rancherias,  with  their  flocks 
of  fat  sheep  and  cattle.  Meat  of  horses,  may  be  very  palatable 
when  fat,  but  ours  are  poor  and  tough,  and  it  is  hard  to  satisfy  the 
cravings  of  hunger  with  such  indifferent  food. 

Early  in  the  day’s  march,  we  met  two  Indians,  a man  and  wo- 
man; they  could  give  us  no  information  of  what  was  passing  on  the 
western  side  of  the  mountains.  They  continued  on  with  the  ut- 
most indifference,  exhibiting  no  signs  of  fear  or  astonishment  at  this 
sudden  apparition  of  ragged  blue-coats.  They  had  fine  athletic 
figures,  but  were  prematurely  wrinkled  from  poverty  and  exposure 
to  cold. 

December  2 and  3. — We  commenced  to  ascend  another  “divide,” 
and  as  we  approached  the  sumpiit  the  narrow  valley  leading  to  it 
was  covered  with  timber  and  long  grass.  On  both  sides,  the  ever- 
green oak  grew  luxuriantly,  and,  for  the  first  time  since  leaving  the 
states,  we  saw  wThat  would  even  there  be  called  large  trees. 
Emerging  from  these,  we  saw  in  the  distance  the  beautiful  valley 
of  the  Aqua  Caliente,  waving  with  yellow  grass,  where  we  expect- 
ed to  find  the  rancheria  owned  by  an  American  named  Warner. 

As  we  passed,  crows  and  wolves  were  seen  in  numbers. 

Leaving  the  valley,  we  ascended  the  hills  to  the  north  covered 
with  mezquite,  estafiat,  &c.  Our  progress  was  slow  and  painful; 
we  thought  Warner’s  rancheria  never  would  open  on  our  eager 
sight,  when  suddenly  it  bqrst  upon  our  view  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 
We  were  mistaken  for  Indians,  and  soon  'were  seen  horsemen  at 
full  speed  leading  off  cattle  and  horses  to  the  mountains.  We 
quickened  our  pace  to  arrest  this  proceeding.  The  rancheria  was 
in  charge  of  a young  fellow  from  New  Hampshire,  named  Marshall. 
We  ascertained  from  him,  that  his  employer  was  a prisoner  to  the 
Americans  in  San  Diego,  that  the  Mexicans  were  still  in  possession 
of  the  whole  of  the  country  except  that  port,  San  Francisco,  and 
Monterey;  that  we  were  near  the  heart  of  the  enemy’s  stronghold, 
whence  he  drew  his  supplies  of  men,  cattle  and  horses,  and  that 
we  wTere  now  in  possession  of  the  great  pass  to  Senora,  by  which 
he  expected  to  retreat,  if  defeated,  to  send  his  prisoners  if  success- 
ful, and  to  commmunieate  with  Mexico. 

To  appease  hunger,  however,  was  the  first  consideration.  Seven 
of  my  men  eat,  at  one  single  meal,  a fat  full  grown  sheep.  Our 
camp  was  pitched  on  the  road  to  the  Pueblo,  leading  a little  north 
of  west.  To  the  south,  down  the  valley  of  the  Aqua  Caliente,  lay 
the  road  to  San  Diego.  Above  us  was  Mr.  Warner’s  backwoods, 
American  looking  house,  built  of  adobe  and  covered  with  a thatched 
roof.  Around,  were  the  thatched  huts  of  the  more  than  half  naked 
Indians,  who  are  held  in  a sort  of  serfdom  by  the  master  of  the 
rancheria.  I visited  one  or  two  of  these  huts,  and  found  the  in- 
mates living  in  great  poverty.  The  thermometer  was  at  30°,  they 
had  no  fires,  and  no  coverings  but  sheepskins.  They  told  me,  that 


106 


m 

when-  they  were  under  the  charge  of  the  missions  they  were  all 
comfortable  and  happy,  but  since  the  good  priests  had  been  removed, 
and  the  missions  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  people  of  the  country, 
they  had  been  ill-treated.  This  change  took  place  in  1836,  and 
many  of  the  missions  passed  into  the  hands  of  men  and  their  con- 
nexions, who  had  effected  the  change. 

Near  the  house  is  the  source  of  the  Aqua  Caliente,  a magnificent 
hot  spring,  of  the  temperature  of  137°  Fahrenheit,  discharging  from, 
the  fissure  of  a granite  rock  a large  volume  of  water,  which,  for  a 
long  distance  down,  charges  the  air  with  the  fumes  of  sulphuretted 
hydrogen.  Above  it,  and  draining  down  the  same  valley,  is  a cold 
spring  of  the  temperature  of  45°,  and  without  the  aid  of  any  me- 
chanical instrument,  the  cold  and  warm  water  may  be  commingled 
to  suit  the  temperature  of  the  bather. 

The  Indians  have  made  pools  for  bathing.  They  huddle  around 
the  basin  of  the  spring  to  catch  the  genial  warmth  of  its  vapors,  and 
in  cold  nights  immerse  themselves  in  the  pools  to  keep  warm.  A 
day  will  come,  no  doubt,  when  the  invalid  and  pleasure  seeking 
portion  of  the  white  race,  will  assemble  here  to  drink  and  bathe  in 
these  waters,  ramble  over  the  hills  which  surround  it  on  all  sides, 
and  sit  under  the  shade  of  the  great  live  oaks  that  grow  in  the 
valley. 

Our  information  in  reference  to  the  state  of  affairs  in  California 
was  yet  very  imperfect  and  unsatisfactory.  Marshall  spoke  of  a 
Mr.  Stokes,  an  Englishman,  who  lived  fifteen  miles  distant,  on  the 
road  to  San  Diego.  The  general  at  once  despatched  Marshall  to 
him,  and  in  three  hours  he  appeared  in  our  camp,  presenting  a very 
singular  and  striking  appearance.  His  jlress  was  a black  velvet 
English  hunting  coat,  a pair  of  black  velvet  trowsers,  cut  off  at  the 
knee  and  open  on  the  outside  to  the  hip,  beneath  which  were 
drawers  of  spotless  white;  his  leggins  were  of  black  buck-skin,  and 
his  heels  armed  with  spurs  six  inches  long.  Above  the  whole 
bloomed  the  broad  merry  face  of  Mr.  Stokes,  the  Englishman.  He 
was  very  frank,  proclaimed  himself  a neutral,  but  gave  us  all  the 
information  he  possessed;  which  was,  that  Commodore  Stockton 
was  in  possession  of  San  Diego,  and  that  all  the  country  between 
that  place  and  Santa  Barbara  was  in  possession  of  the  u country 
people.”  He  confirmed  all  that  Marshall  had  said,  and  stated  he 
was  going  to  San  Diego  the  next  morning.  The  general  gave  him 
a letter  for  that  place. 

I made  observations  at  night  for  time  and  latitude,  but  the  flying 
clouds,  and  the  trembling  ground  on  which  we  were  encamped, 
made  it  a delicate  operation. 

Information  was  received  on  the  2d,  that  fifteen  miles  distant,  on 
the  road  to  the  Pueblo,  a band  of  horses  and  mules  were  catched, 
belonging  to  General  Flores  and  others.  Tired  as  our  people  were, 
nightfall  found  twenty-five  of  them  in  the  saddle,  with  fresh  horses, 
under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Davidson,  accompanied  by  Carson, 
on  their  way  in  pursuit  of  the  cache.  Davidson  was  successful,  and 
returned  with  the  horses  on  the  3d,  about  meridian;  but  the  animals, 


107 


[7] 


like  those  we  captured  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  were  mostly  un- 
broken, and  not  of  much  service. 

My  observations  give  for  the  latitude  of  our  camp  of  this  date, 
which  was  on  the  meadow  to  the  south  of  the  rancheria,  33°  16'  57". 

We  remained  in  camp  on  the  3d  to  rest. 

December  4. — The  morning  was  murky,  and  we  did  not  start  till 
9 o’clock,  about  "which  time  it  commenced  to  rain  heavily,  and  the 
rain  lasted  all  day.  Our  route  was  chiefly  through  narrow  valleys 
overtopped  by  high  hills  of  some  fertility,  covered  with  oaks.  We 
were  now  in  the  region  of  rains,  and  the  vegetation,  though  not 
luxuriant,  was  very  much  changed,  but  it  was  too  late  in  the  fall  to 
get  the  flowers  or  fruits  to  determine  the  plants. 

Our  camp  was  pitched,  after  marching  13|  miles,  in  the  valley  of 
the  Rio  Isabel,  near  the  rancheria  of  Mr.  Stokes,  formerly  the  mis- 
sion of  Saint  Isabel. 

Mr.  S.  had  gone,  but  he  left  his  keys  with  a man  whom  the  Span- 
iards called  Signor  Reel,  with  directions  to  entertain  us.  The  Sig- 
nor was  a deserter  from  an  English  merchant-man,  and  had  lived 
in  the  neighboring  mountains  some  ten  years;  during  this  time  he 
had  acquired  a little  property,  and  some  knowledge  of  Spanish,  but 
the  sailor  was  visible  in  all  his  acts.  Before  night  Mr.  Beel  had 
made  good  use  of  his  keys,  and  shone  in  his  true  colors  as  sailor 
Bill. 

We  were  drenched  to  the  skin,  and  looked  forward  with  some 
pleasure  to  the  idea  of  once  more  entering  a house,  with  a blazing 
fire  and  plenty  to  eat  and  drink.  In  the  last  two  items  we  were 
entirely  satisfied,  but  sadly  disappointed  in  finding  no  fire,  the  only 
cfiimney  about  the  rancheria  being  in  the  kitchen. 

The  dragoons  took  the  dinner  intended  for  the  officers,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  stand,  cracking  our  heels  in  the  cold  damp  chapel, 
now  converted  into  a hall,  for  two  hours,  before  the  Signor,  or 
rather  Sailor  Bill,  could  cook  another  dinner. 

The  appearance  of  desolation  which  the  rancheria  presents  is 
little  calculated  to  impress  us  with  favorable  notions  of  the  agri- 
cultural resources  of  this  part  of  California.  The  land  in  the  nar- 
row valleys  is  good,  but  surrounded  every  where  by  high  barren 
mountains,  and  where  the  land  is  good,  the  seasons  are  too  dry  for 
men  to  attempt  cultivation  without  facilities  for  irrigation. 

December  5. — A cold  rainy  day,  and  the  naked  Indians  of  the 
rancheria  gathered  around  our  fires.  We  marched  from  the  ran- 
cheria of  San  Isabel  to  that  of  Santa  Maria.  On  the  way  we  met 
Capt.  Gillespie,  Lieut.  Beale,  and  Midshipman  Duncan  of  the  navy, 
with  a party  of  thirty-five  men,  sent  from  San  Diego  with  a de- 
spatch to  Gen.  Kearny.  We  arrived  at  the  rancheria  after  dark, 
where  we  heard  that  the  enemy  was  in  force  nine  miles  distant,  and 
not  finding  any  grass  about  the  rancheria,  we  pushed  on  and  en- 
camped in  a canon  two  miles  below.  It  was  long  after  night  when 
we  halted,  and  though  there  may  have  been  plenty  of  grass,  we 
could  not  find  it.  Besides  the  rain,  a heavy  fog  obscured  the  land- 
scape, and  little  could  be  seen  of  the  country  during  the  day’s  jour- 


neying;  what  we  did  see,  however,  did  not  impress  us  favorably  as 
to  its  fertility. 

Although  this  was  the  rainy  season,  no  flowing  streams  were  I 
crossed  after  leaving  the  San  Isabel,  and  the  ground  was  destitute 
of  grass.  Our  camp  was  in  a valley,  overgrown  with  large  oak 
trees  and  other  shrubbery;  but  it  was  too  dark  to  distinguish  their  | 
character. 

A party  under  Lieut.  Hammond  was  sent  to  reconnoitre  the  ene- 
my, reported  to  be  near  at  hand.  By  some  accident  the  party  was 
discovered,  and  the  enemy  placed  on  the  qui  vive^  We  were  now 
on  the  main  road  to  San  Diego,  all  the  u by-ways”  being  in  our 
rear,  and  it  was  therefore  deemed  necessary  to  attack  the  enemy, 
and  force  a passage.  About  2 o’clock,  a.  m. , the  call  to  horse  was 
sounded. 

December  6. — We  marched  nine  miles  before  day-break  over  a 
hilly  country,  leaving  our  packs  to  come  on  in  the  rear.  The  ge-  | 
neral  invited  Mr.  Warner  and  myself  to  ride  with  him,  and  taking 
four  of  my  party,  I left  Messrs.  Bestor  and  Stanly  with  the  rest, 
six  in  number,  to  take  care  of  the  baggage,  and  look  after  the  in- 
struments and  notes. 

When  within  a mile  of  the  enemy,  whose  force  was  not  known  to 
us,  his  fires  shone  brightly.  The  general  and  his  party  were  in  ad- 
vance, preceded  only  by  the  advanced  guard  of  twelve  men  under 
Captain  Johnston.  He  ordered  a trot,  then  a charge,  and  soon  we 
found  ourselves  engaged  in  a hand  to  hand  conflict  with  a largely  j 
superior  force. 

For  an  account  of  this  engagement,  reference  may  be  made  to 
the  official  report  of  the  general,  which  has  been  published.  The 
subjoined  topographical  sketch  will  show  the  first  and  second  posi- 
tion of  the  enemy,  and  his  final  rout.  As  day  dawned,  the  smoke 
cleared  away,  and  we  commenced  collecting  our  dead  and  wounded. 
We  found  18  of  our  officers  and  men  were  killed  on  the  field,  and 
13  wounded. 

Amongst  the  killed  we-re  Captains  Moore  and  Johnston,  and 
Lieutenant  Hammond  of  the  1st  dragoons. 

The  general,  Capt.  Gillespie,  Capt.  Gibson,  Lieut.  Warner,  and 
Mr.  Robideau  badly  wounded. 

A large  body  of  horsemen  were  seen  in  our  rear,  and  fears  were 
entertained  lest  Major  Swords  and  the  baggage  should  fall  into 
their  hands.  The  general  directed  me  to  take  a party  of  men  and 
go  back  for  Major  Swords  and  his  party.  We  met  at  the  foot  of 
the  first  hill,  a mile  in  rear  of  the  enemy’s  first  position.  Return- 
ing, I scoured  the  village  to  look  for  the  dead  and  wounded.  The 
first  object  which  met  my  eye  was  the  manly  figure  of  Capt  John- 
ston. He  was  perfectly  lifeless,  a ball  having  passed  directly 
through  the  centre  of  his  head. 

The  work  of  plundering  the  dead  had  already  commenced;  his 
watch  was  gone,  nothing  being  left  of  it  but  a fragment  of  the  gold 
chain  by  which  it  was  suspended  from  his  neck.  By  my  directions 
Sergeant  Falls  and  four  men  took  charge  of  the  body  and  carried 
it  into  camp.  Captain  Johnston  and  one  dragoon  were  the  only 


>1 


or  THE 

actions 

T OUGHT  AT 

ted  a srtDTTTJML: 

CALIF  ORNI 

Between  the  Americans 
Mexicans 


J 


> ' 


J • 


• I 


; \ 


i.  * 


( 


\ / 
' r' 


- i> 


•'  - ■; 


109  [ 7 ] 

persons  either  killed  or  wounded  on  our  side  in  the  fight  by  fire- 
arms. 

Information  was  received  that  the  dead,  no  matter  where  buried, 
would  be  dug  up  to  rob  the  bodies  of  their  clothes,  and  orders  were 
given  to  pack  them  on  mules,  with  the  intention  of  carrying  them 
to  Sam  Diego,  but  it  was  found  that  there  were  not  a sufficient 
number  of  strong  animals  left  to  convey  both  the  dead  and  the 
wounded,  and  directions  were  given  therefore  to  inter  them  at 
night  as  secretly  as  possible. 

When  night  closed  in,  the  bodies  of  the  dead  were  buried  under 
a willow  to  the  east  of  our  camp,  with  no  other  accompaniment 
than  the  howling  of  myriads  of  wolves  attracted  by  the  smell. 
Thus  were  put  to  rest  together,  and  forever,  a band  of  brave  and 
heroic  men.  The  long  march  of  2,000  miles  had  brought  our  little 
command,  both  officers  and  men,  to  know  each  other  well.  Com- 
munity of  hardships,  dangers,  and  privations,  had  produced  rela- 
tions of  mutual  regard  which  caused  their  loss  to  sink  deeply  in 
our  memories. 

The  general’s  wounds  were  so  serious,  that  during  the  day  Cap- 
tain Turner  assumed  command  and  directed  operations.  There  was 
but  one  surgeon  in  our  party,  Dr.  Griffin,  and  notwithstanding  his 
great  skill  and  assiduty,  he  did  not  finish  dressing  the  wounded  till 
late  in  the  afternoon,  nor  were  the  ambulances  for  their  transport- 
ation completed.  This,  with  the  desire  to  bury  our  dead  under 
cover  of  night,  caused  the  forward  movement  to  be  postponed  till 
morning. 

Our  provisions  were  exhausted,  our  horses  dead,  our  mules  on 
their  last  legs,  and  our  men,  now  reduced  to  one  third  of  their 
number,  were  ragged,  worn  down  by  fatigue,  and  emaciated.  The 
officers  of  Captain  Gillespie’s- party  said  there  were  wheel  carriages 
at  San  Diego,  39  miles  distant, -and  it  was  determined  to  send  there 
for  the  means  of  conveying  our  wounded.  Early  in  the  day, 
Godey,  with  a few  picked  men,  was  on  his  way  by  a circuitous 
route  to  that  place. 

Our  position  was  defensible,  but  the  ground,  covered  with  rocks 
and  cacti,  made  it  difficult  to  get  a smooth  place  to  rest,  even  for 
the  wounded.  The  night  was  cold  and  damp,  and  notwithstanding 
our  excessive  fatigues  of  the  day  and  night  previous,  sleep  was  im- 
possible. 

D ecember  7. — Day  dawned  on  the  most  tattered  and  ill-fed  de- 
tachment of  men  that  ever  the  United  States  mustered  under  her 
colors.  The  enemy’s  pickets  and  a portion  of  his  force  were  seen 
in  front.  The  sick,  by  the  indefatigable  exertions  of  Dr.  Griffin, 
were  doing  well,  and  the  general  enabled  to  mount  his  horse.  •* 
The  order  to  march  was  given,  and  we  moved  off  to  offer  the  enemy 
battle,  accompanied  by  our  wounded,  and  the  whole  of  our  packs. 
The  ambulances  grated  rn  the  ground,  and  the  sufferings  of  the 
wounded  were  very  distressing.  We  had  made  for  them  the  most 
comfortable  conveyance  we  could,  and  such  as  it  was,  we  were  in- 
debted principally  to  the  ingenuity  of  the  three  remaining  moun- 
tain men  of  the  party,  Peterson,  Londeau,  and  Perrot.  The  fourth. 


110 


m 

the  brave  Francois  Menard,  had  lost  his  life  in  the  light  of  the  day- 
before.  The  general  resumed  the  command,  placing  Captain  Tur- 
ner, of  the  dragoons,  in  command  of  the  remnant  of  dragoons, 
which  were  consolidated  into  one  company. 

Arranging  our  wounded  and  the  packs  in  the  centre,  we  marched 
towards  San  Diego  in  the  direction  of  the  San  Barnardo  rancheria, 
taking  the  right  hand  road  over  the  hills,  and  leaving  the  river  San 
Barnardo  to  the  left.  The  enemy  retired  as  we  advanced.  When 
we  arrived  at  the  rancheria  of  San  Barnardo,  we  watered  our  horses 
and  killed  chickens  for  the  sick.  The  rancheria  was  the  property 
of  Mr.  Snooks,  an  Englishman;  it  was  deserted  except  by  a few 
Indians. 

Finding  no  grass  about  the  rancheria,  we  moved  on  towards  the 
bed  of  the  river,  driving  many  cattle  before  us.  We  had  scarcely 
left  the  house  and  proceeded  more  than  a mile,  when  a cloud  of 
cavalry  debouched  from  the  hills  in  our  rear,  and  a portion  of  them 
dashed  at  full  speed  to  occupy  a hill  by  which  we  must  pass,  while 
the  remainder  threatened  our  rear.  Thirty  or  forty  of  them  got 
possession  of  the  hill,  and  it  was  necessary  to  drive  them  from  it. 
This  was  accomplished  by  a small  party  of  six  or  eight, upon  whom 
the  Californians  discharged  their  fire;  and  strange  to  say,  not  one 
of  our  men  fell.  The  capture  of  the  hill  was  then  but  the  work  of 
a moment,  and  when  we  reached  the  crest,  the  Californians  had 
mounted  their  horses  and  were  in  full  flight.  We  did  not  lose  a 
man  in  the  skirmish,  but  they  had  several  badly  wounded.  By 
this  movement  we  lost  our  cattle,  and  were  convinced  that  if  we 
attempted  any  further  progress  with  the  ambulances  we  must  lose 
our  sick  and  our  packs.  It  was  impossible  to  move  in  the  open 
field  with  these  incumbrances,  against  an  enemy  more  than  twice 
our  numbers,  and  all  superbly  mounted.  The  general,  therefore, 
determined  to  halt,  for  the  night  to  have  the  wounds  of  the  sick  re- 
dressed, and  then  to  cut  our  way  to  San  Diego. 

December  8. — We  bored  holes  for  water,  and  killed  the  fattest 
of  our  mules  for  meat.  In  the  morning  a flag  of  truce  was  sent 
into  our  camp,  informing  us  that  Andreas  Pico,  the  commander  of 
the  Mexican  forces,  had  just  captured  four  Americans,  and  wished 
to  exchange  them  for  a like  number  of  Californians.  We  had  but 
one  to  exchange,  and  with  this  fellow  I was  sent  to  meet  Andreas 
Pico,  whom  I found  to  be  a gentlemanly  looking,  and  rather  hand- 
some man. 

The  conversation  was  short;  for  I saw  the  man  he  wished  to  ex- 
change was  Burgess,  one  of  those  sent  on  the  morning  of  the  6th 
to  San  Diego,  and  we  were  very  anxious  to  know  the  result  of 
his  mission.  Taking  rather  a contemptuous  leave  of  his  late  cap- 
tors,  he  informed  us  of  the  safe  arrival  of  himself  and  Godey  at 
San  Diego.  He  also  stated  that  when  captured,  his  party,  consist- 
ing of  himself  and  two  others,  on  their  return  from  San  Diego,  had 
previously  66  cached”  their  letters  under  a tree,  which  he  pointed 
out;  but  on  subsequent  examination,  we  found  the  letters  had  been 
abstracted. 

Cur  wounded  were  still  in  no  condition  to  move;  to  have  at- 


Ill 


[7] 

tempted  to  transport  them  would  have  required  one  half  of  our 
fighting  force,  and  it  was  decided  most  expedient  to  wait  until  they 
could  be  carried  on  horseback.  At  night,  Lieutenant  Beale, 'of  the 
navy,  Mr.  Carson,  and  an  Indian,  volunteered  to  go  to  San  Diego, 
29  miles  distant- — an  expedition  of  some  peril,  as  the  enemy  now 
occupied  all  the  passes  to  that  town. 

The  observations  made  to-night  give,  for  the  latitude  of  this 
camp,  33°  03'  42",  and  the  longitude  117°  03'  29". 

Don  Antonio  Robideaux,  a thin  man  of  fifty-five  years,  slept  next 
to  me.  The  loss  of  blood  from  his  wounds,  added  to  the  coldness 
of  the  night,  28°  Fahrenheit,  made  me  think  he  would  never  see  day- 
light, but  I was  mistaken.  He  -woke  me  to  ask  if  I did  not  smell 
coffee,  and  expressed  the  belief  that  a cup  of  that  beverage  would 
save  his  life,  and  that  nothing  else  would.  Not  knowing  there  had 
been  any  coffee  in  camp  for  many  days,  I supposed  a dream  had 
carried  him  back  to  the  cafes  of  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans,  and 
it  was  with  some  surprise  I found  my  cook  heating  a cup  of  coffee 
over  a small  fire  made  of  wild  sage.  One  of  the  most  agreeable 
little  offices  performed  in  my  life,  and  I believe  in  the  cook’s,  to 
whom  the  coffee  belonged,  was,  to  pour  this  precious  draught  into 
the  waning  body  of  our  friend  Robideaux.  His  warmth  returned, 
and  with  it  hopes  of  life.  . In  gratitude  he  gave  me,  what  was 
then  a great  rarity,  the  half  of  a cake  made  of  brown  flour,  almost 
black  with  dirt,  and  which  had,  for  greater  security,  been  hidden 
in  the  clothes  of  his  Mexican  servant,  a man  who  scorned  ablutions. 
I eat  more  than  half  without  inspection,  when,  on  breaking  apiece, 
the  bodies  of  several  of  the  most  loathesome  insects  were  exposed 
to  my  view.  My  hunger,  however,  overcame  my  fastidiousness, 
and  the  morceau  did  not  appear  particularly  disgusting  till  after 
our  arrival  at  San  Diego,  when  several  hearty  meals  fiad  taken  off 
the  keenness  of  my  appetite,  and  suffered  my  taste  to  be  more  del- 
icate. 

Last  night  the  brave  Sergeant  Cox  died  of  his  wTounds,  and  was 
buried  to-day  deep  in  the  ground,  and  covered  with  heavy  stones,  to 
prevent  the  wolves  from  tearing  him  up.  This  was  a gallant  fellow, 
who  had,  just  before  leaving  Fort  Leavenworth,  married  a pretty 
wife. 

December  10. — The  enemy  attacked  our  camp,  driving  before 
them  a band  of  wild  horses,  with  which  they  hoped  to  produce  a 
stampede.  Our  men  behavecl  with  admirable  coolness,  turning  off 
the  wild  animals  dexterously.  Two  or  three  of  the  fattest  were 
killed  in  the  charge,  and  formed,  in  the  shape  of  a gravy-soup,  an 
agreeable  substitute  for  the  poor  steaks  of  our  worn  down  brutes, 
on  which  we  had  been  feeding  for  a number  of  days. 

Doctor  Griffin  gave  the  welcome  information  that  all  the  sick, 
but  two,  were  able  to  get  in  the  saddle,  and  orders  were  given  to 
march  the  next  morning. 

There  was  little  expectation  that  Carson  and  Lieutenant  Beale 
would  succeed  in  reaching  San  Diego;  the  hiding  place  pointed 
out  by  Burgess  was  examined,  and  the  letters  from  San  Diego  were 
not  found. 


112 


m 


We  were  all  reposing*  quietly,  but  not  sleeping,  waitnig  for  the 
break  of  day,  when  we  were  to  go  down  and  give  the  enemy  an- 
other defeat.  One  of  the  men,  in  the  part  of  the  camp  assigned  to 
my  defence,  reported  that  he  heard  a man  speaking  in  English.  In 
a few  minutes  we  heard  the  tramp  of  a column,  followed  by  the 
hail  of  the  sentinel.  It  was  a detachment  of  100  tars  and  80  ma- 
rines under  Lieutenant  Gray,  sent  to  meet  us  by  Commodore  Stock- 
ton,  from  whom  we  learned  that  Lieutenant  Beale,  Carson,  and  the 
Indian,  had  arrived  safely  in  San  Diego.  The  detachment  left  San 
Diego  on  the  night  of  the  9th,  cached  themselves  during  the  day 
of  the  10th,  and  joined  us  on  the  night  of  that  day.  These  gallant 
fellows  busied  themselves  till  day  distributing  their  provisions  and 
clothes  to  our  naked  and  hungry  people. 

December  11. — The  junction  of  our  forces  was  a complete  sur- 
prise to  the  enemy,  and  when  the  sun  rose,  but  a small  squadron 
of  horse  was  to  be  seen  at  Stokes’s  rancheria.  They  had  fled  pre- 
cipitately, leaving  most  of  the  cattle  behind  them,  for  which  we 
had  been  contending  for  the  last  three  days.  None  of  our  men 
were  mounted— theirs  were  all  mounted;  and  why  they  should  have 
left  their  stock  is  inconceivable.  It  was  certainly  not  incompati- 
ble with  their  safety  to  have  carried  them  all  away.  The  only  way 
of  accounting  for  it,  is,  by  supposing  our  night  attack  had  filled 
them  with  the  unnecessary  fear  of  being  surprised.  We  drove  the 
cattle  before  us. 

Our  march  was  in  close  order,  over  a road  leading  through  a 
rolling  country  of  light  black  soil,  destitute  of  trees,  and  without 
water,  covered  with  oats  indigenuous  to  the  soil,  now  fallen  to  de- 
cay. The  grass  in  protected  places  was  sprouting,  but  not  in  suf- 
ficient quantity  to  afford  grazing  to  our  stock.  After  marching 
twelve  miles' we  arrived  at  the  rancheria  of  Signor  Alvarado,  a 
nerson  who  was  in  the  fight  against  us.  The  women  and  children 
had  fled  to  the  mountains,  leaving  plenty  of  turkies,  chickens,  goats 
and  sheep  behind;  also  two  casks  of  wine,  the  produce  of  the 
country.  The  havoc  committed  o.n  the  comestibles  was  immense; 
the  sheep  not  killed  were  driven  by  us  into  San  Diego.  The  owner 
had  taken  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  United  States  and  broken 


it. 

The  navy  took  a prisoner  at  this  house  as  they  marched  to  meet 
us.  He  gave  us  much  information,  and  was  then  liberated.  He 
stated  that  Pico’s  force  consisted  of  160  men,  100  of  which  were 
drawn  from  the  Pueblo,  and  the  balance  from  the  surrounding 
country.  We  subsequently  received  authentic  accounts  that  his 
number  was  180  men  engaged  in  the  fight,  and  that  100  additional 
men  were  sent  him  from  the  Pueblo,  who  reached  his  camp  on  the 


7th.  . , . , . 

There  was  a fine  spring  at  this  rancheria,  and  another  two  miles 

below  it. 

On  the  hill,  before  reaching  the  rancheria,  the  Pacific  opened  for 
the  first  time  to  our  view,  the  sight  producing  strange  but  agreeable 
emotions.  One  of  the  mountain  men  who  had  never  seen  the  ocean 


i 


I 


113  [7] 

before,  opened  his  arms  and  exclaimed:  u Lord!  there  is  a great 
prairie  without  a tree,” 

December  12. — We  followed  the  Solidad  through  a deep  fertile 
valley  in  the  shape  of  a cross.  Here  we  ascended  to  the  left  a 
steep  hill  to  the  table  lands,  which,  keeping  for  a few  miles,  we  de- 
scended into  a waterless  valley,  leading  into  False  bay  at  a point 
distant  two  or  three  miles  from  San  Diego.  At  this  place  we  were 
in  view  of  the  fort  overlooking  the  town  of  San  Diego  and  the  bar- 
ren waste  which  surrounds  it. 

The  town  consists  of  a few  adobe  houses,  two  or  three  of  which 
only  have  plank  floors.  It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a high  hill  on 
a sand  flat,  two  miles  wide,  reaching  from  the  head  of  San  Diego 
bay  to  False  bay.  A high  promontory  of  nearly  the  same  width, 
runs  into  the  sea  four  or  five  miles  and  is  connected  by  the 
flat  with  the  main  land.  The  road  to  the  hide  houses  leads  east- 
ward of  this  promontory,  and  abreast  of  them  the  frigate  Con- 
gress and  the  sloop  Portsmouth  are  at  anchor.  The  hide  houses  are 
a collection  of  store  houses  where  the  hides  of  cattle  are  packed 
before  being  shipped;  this  article  forming  the  only  trade  of  the 
little  town. 

The  bay  is  a narrow  arm  of  the  sea  indenting  the  land  some  four 
or  five  miles,  easily  defended,  and  having  twenty  feet  of  water  at 
the  lowest  tide.  The  rise  is  said  to  be  five  feet,  making  the  great- 
est water  twenty-five  feet. 

Standing  on  the  hill  which  overlooks  the  town,  and  looking  to 
the  northeast,  I saw  the  mission  of  San  Diego,  a fine  large  building 
now  deserted.  The  Rio  San  Diego  runs  under  ground  in  a direct 
course  fronFthe  mission  to  the  town,  and  sweeping  around  the  hill, 
discharges  itself  into  the  bay.  Its  original  debouche  was  into 
False  bay,  where,  meeting  the  waters  rolling  in  from  the  seaward, 
a bar  was  formed  by  the  deposite  of  sand,  making  the  entrance  of 
False  bay  impracticable. 

Well  grounded  fears  are  entertained  that  the  immense  quantity  of 
sand  discharged  by  this  river  will  materially  injure,  if  it  does  not 
destroy  the  harbor  of  San  Diego;  but  this  evil  could  be  arrested  at 
a slight  cost,  compared  with  the  objects  to  be  obtained.  At  present 
San  Diego  is,  all  things  considered,  perhaps  one  of  the  best  harbors 
on  the  coast  from  Callao  to  Puget’s  Sound,  with  a single  exception, 
that  of  San  Francisco.  In  the  opinion  of  some  intelligent  navy 
officers,  it  is  preferable  even  to  this.  The  harbor  of  San  Francisco 
has  more  water,  but  that  of  San  Diego  has  a more  uniform  climate, 
better  anchorage,  and  perfect  security  from  winds  in  any  direction. 
However,  the  commercial  metropolis  must  be  at  San  Francisco, 
owing  to  the  greater  extent  and  superiority  of  the  country  adjacent, 
watered  by  the  rivers  Sacramento  and  San  Joachim,  unless  indeed 
it  should  be  made  the  terminus  of  a railroad  leading  by  the  route  of 
the  Gila  to  the  Del  Norte,  and  thence  to  the  Mississippi  and  the 
Atlantic.  ^ 

The  rain  fell  in  torrents  as  we  entered  the  town,  and  it  was  my 
singular  fate  here,  as  in  Santa  Fe,  to  be  quartered  in  the  calaboose, 
a miserable  hut,  of  one  room,  some  40  -j-  30  feet  square.  A huge 


114 


m 

old  gun  was  mounted  in  this  hovel,  looking  through  an  embrasure 
to  the  westward.  In  this  building  I was  told  that  I could  stow  my 
party  and  my  instruments  safely. 

We  preferred  the  open  air  and  the  muddy  plaza,  saturated  with 
all  sorts  of  filth,  to  this  wretched  hole;  but  having  no  alternative,  I 
our  chronometers  and  instruments  were  stowed  in  it  and  guarded 
by  the  indefatigable  Mr.  Bestor.  I went  off  to  accept  from  the  hos- 
pitality of  a friend  the  first  bed  I had  seen  in  many  months. 
About  midnight  there  was  one  of  those  false  alarms  which  ever  and 
anon  disturbed  this  goodly  town.  Four  burly  fellows  rushed  to 
man  this  gun,  but  they  found  themselves  unexpectedly  opposed  by  | 
Mr.  Bestor  and  two  or  three  of  my  party.  But  for  this  timely  re- 
sistance, my  whole  little  stock  of  chronometers,  barometer,  &c., 
would  have  been  totally  destroyed.  In  the  morning,  through  the 
kind  exertions  of  my  friend,  Captain  Gillespie,**  I was  enabled  to 
get  a house  with  two  rooms,  the  only  unoccupied  quarters  in  the 
town.  Foreseeing  employment  of  a different  nature,  my  little 
party  occupied  themselves  busily  in  collecting  and  bringing  up 
the  notes  of  our  field-work. 

On  the  28th  December  I received  notification  from  General 
Kearny  to  leave  my  party  in  San  Diego  and  report  to  him  for  duty, 
as  the  acting  adjutant  general  of  the  forces;  Captain  Turner,  his 
adjutant  general,  having  been  assigned  by  him  to  the  command  of 
the  remnant  of  the  company  of  the  1st  dragoons. 

Mr.  Warner  was  still  too  unwell,  from  the  wounds  received  at 
San  Pasqual,  to  accompany  us,  or  to  commence  the  survey  of 
San  Diego  bay.  Wishing  to  have  a secure  place  to  deposite  my 
instruments,  notes,  & c.,  I applied  to  Captain  Dupont  to  give  them 
a place  on  board  the  Cyane.  He  granted  this  request,  and  kindly 
insisted  that  Mr.  Bestor  and  Mr.  Stanly  should  also  go  on  board, 
where  they  could  pursue  their  work  unmolested. 

I should  be  very  ungrateful  if  I did  not  here  make  my  acknow- 
ledgments to  Captain  Dupont,  and  all  the  officers  of  the  navy  with 
whom  we  were  throwm  in  contact,  for  the  uniform  kindness  and  the 
generous  hospitality  with  which  they  always  supplied  our  personal 
wants,  and  the  promptness  with  which  they  rendered  assistance  in 
any  public  enterprise. 

My  work  as  topographical  engineer  maybe  considered  to  end  at 
this  place;  and  that  portion  of  the  map  embraced  between  San 
Diego  and  the  Pueblo  or  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles  is  compiled  from 
existing  maps,  with  slight  alterations  made  by  myself  from  a view 
of  the  ground,  without  the  aid  of  instruments. 

The  coast  is  taken  from  old  Spanish  charts,  published  in  Madrid 
in  1825,  kindly  furnished  me  by  Captain  Wilkes.  The  harbor  of 
San  Diego  has  been  surveyed  by  Captain,  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  of 
the  royal  navy,  wThose  determination  of  tjie  longitude  of  the  spit  to 
the  south  of  Punta  Loma,  published  in  his  u voyage  round  the 
world,”  has  been  adopted,  in  the  absence  of  time  or  instruments  to 
enable  me  to  make  the  requisite  observations. 

The  longitude  of  the  same  point  by  Malispina  117°  17',  and  the 
chronometric  longitude  brought  by  myself  from  my  last  station  | 


115 


[7] 

over  the  mountains,  where  lunar  distances  were  observed,  117°  14/; 
but  I have  not  hesitated  to  take  the  results  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher, 
although  I have  had  no  opportunity  of  seeing  his  observations. 

Malispina’s  observations  were  made  long  since,  and  the  results 
from  the  chronometers  brought  overland  by  me  are  liable  to  objec- 
tions: first,  from  the  imperfection  in  the  determination  of  my  inter- 
mediate stations  by  lunar  distances,  and,  next,  from  the  disturb- 
ances to  which  the  chronometers  were  subjected  in  the  battle  of 
the  6th  December,  and  the  skirmish  of  the  7th,  but  more  particu- 
larly the  last,  where  a sudden  charge  was  made  in  an  open  plain 
on  our  baggage  by  the  enemy’s  cavalry. 

The  harbor  was  originally  explored  by  Sebastian  Vizcaino  in  1603, 
but  no  settlement  was  made  at  San  Diego  until  1769. 

Vessels  may  ride  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  perfectly  land-locked, 
but  in  very  heavy  southerly  gales  some  inconvenience  may  be  felt 
by  those^not  provided  with  good  ground  tackle,  from  the  immense 
volumes  of  kelp  driven  into  the  harbor. 

The  kelp  (fucus  gigantens)  occupies  a space  in  front  of  the  har- 
bor some  miles  in  length  and  half  a mile  wide.  At  a distance,  I 
took  the  kelp  for  a low  island,  but  was  informed  of  my  error  by 
Captain  Schenck,  who  told  me  vessels  were  forced  through  it  in  a 
stiff  breeze. 


On  th*e  morning  of  the 

29th 

Decemb 

er  we 

marched  out 

of  San 

Diego  with  the  following  force: 

Capt. 

Lieut. 

Sergt. 

Corpl. 

Bug. 

Privates. 

Dragoons 

1 

1 

2 

4 

2 

47 

Sailors  acting  artillery.. 

1 

1 

2 

4 

— 

39 

Sailors  and  marines  act- 
ing  infantry 

8 

10 

17 

17 

345 

V olunteers 

3 

3 

6 

_ 

— 

48 

Three  employes  of  the  topographical  engineers,  three  medical 
officers,  and  twenty-five  men,  Indians,  and  Californians;  the  whole 
divided  into  four  divisions  or  battalions,  commanded  respectively 
by  Captain  Turner,  Lieutenant  Renshaw,  Lieutenant  Zielin,  and 
Captain  Gillespie. 

Six  pieces  of  artillery,  of  various  calibre,  got  up  with  great  ex- 
ertion, under  the  orders  of  Commodore  Stockton,  by  Lieutenant 
Tilghman  of  the  navy,  acting  as  captain  of  artillery. 

A wagon  train,  consisting  of  one  four-wheel  carriage  and  ten  ox 
carts,  under  the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Minor  of  the  navy.  The 
wagons  were  heavily  laden,  and  our  progress  was  slow  in  the  ex- 
treme. We  did  not  reach  the  Solidad,  the  first  watering  place,  till 
8 o’clock  at  night. 

I was  ordered  to  ride  forward  and  lay  out  a defensive  camp, 
hoping  to  give  confidence  to  the  sailors,  many  of  whom  were  now, 
for  the  first  time,  transferred  to  a new  element. 

We  soon  found  their  habits  of  discipline  aboard  ship  made  the 
transition  easy,  arid  I speedily  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  Jack, 
properly  handled,  made  a very  good  infantry  soldier. 


116 


[7] 

The  plan  of  the  camp  being  approved,  I was  directed  to  make  it 
the  habitual  order  of  encamping  wherever  the  configuration  of  the 
ground  would  admit.  The  plan  was  the  natural  one  to  protect 
ourselves  from  the  night  attacks  of  the  enemy,  who  were  all  mounted. 
The  mode  in  which  they  designed  to  make  their  night  attacks  was 
to  drive  into  our  camp  a manada  of  wild  mares,  and  then  take  ad- 
vantage of  the  confusion  they  might  create  to  deliver  a charge. 

December  30. — We  encamped  at  the  rancheria  of  Alvear. 

December  31. — We  encamped  at  the  San  Bar'nardo,  having  gone 
in  three  days  only  30  miles.  The  ground  passed  over  was  the  same 
as  that  described  in  the  last  two  days  of  our  march  into  San  Diego. 

January  1.— 1 To-day  we  obtained  some  fresh  oxen  and  a few  fresh 
horses,  which  enabled  us  to  do  better  and  to  make  17  miles  before 
sunset.  Our  road  to-day  diverged  from  that  heretofore  described, 
and  laid  over  a rolling  country,  destitute  of  water  and  trees.  Cattle 
were  seen,  in  small  numbers,  covering  the  plains  in  all  directions, 
proving  to  us  that  the  enemy  had  found  it  impracticable  to  fulfil 
their  boast,  that  we  should  not  get  a hoof  from  the  day  we  left  San 
Diego. 

We  pitched  our  camp  at  the  Indian  settlement  of  Buena  Yista, 
passing  by  the  way  a deserted  rancheria,  where  there  was  a puddle 
of  stagnant  water,  the  only  water  on  the  route.  % 

January  2. — Six  and  a half  miles  march  brought  us  to  the  de- 
serted mission  of  San  Luis  Rey.  The  keys  of  this  mission  were  in 
charge  of  the  alcalde  of  the  Indian  village,  a mile  distant.  He  was 
at  the  door  to  receive  us  and  deliver  up  possession. 

There  we  halted  for  the  day  to  let  the  sailors,  who  suffered 
dreadfully  from  sore  feet,  recruit  a little. 

This  building  is  one  which,  for  magnitude,  convenience,  and  du- 
rability of  architecture,  would  do  honor  to  any  country. 

The  walls  are  of  adobe,  and  the  roofs  of  well  made  tile.  It  was 
built  about  sixty  years  since  by  the  Indians  of  the  country,  under 
the  guidance  of  a zealous  priest.  At  that  time  the  Indians  were 
very  numerous,  and  under  the  absolute  sway  of  the  missionaries. 
These  missionaries  at  one  time  bid  fair  to  christianize  the  Indians 
of  California.  Under  grants  from  the  Mexican  government,  they 
collected  them  into  missions,  built  immense  houses,  and  commenced 
successfully  to  till  the  soil  by  the  hands  of  the  Indians  for  the  ben- 
efit of  the  Indians. 

The  habits  of  the  priests,  and  the  avarice  of  the  military  rulers 
of  the  territory,  however,  soon  converted  these  missions  into  in- 
struments of  oppression  and  slavery  of  the  Indian  race. 

The  revolution  of  1836  saw  the  downfall  of  the  priests,  and  most 
of  these  missions  passed  by  fraud  into  the  hands  of  private  individ- 
uals, and  with  them  the  Indians  were  transferred  as  serfs  of  the  land. 

This  race,  which,  in  our  country,  has  never  been  reduced  to 
slavery,  is  in  that  degraded  condition  throughout  California,  and  do 
the  only  labor  performed  in  the  country.  Nothing  can  exceed  their 
present  degraded  condition. 

For  negligence  or  refusal  to  work,  the  lash  is  freely  applied,  and 


117  [ 7 ] 

in  many  instances  life  has  been  taken  by  the  Californians  without 
being  held  accountable  by  the  laws  of  the  land. 

This  mission  of  San  Luis  Rey  was,  until  the  invasion  of  Cali- 
fornia by  the  Americans,  in  1846,  considered  as  public  property. 
Just  before  that  event  took  place,  a sale  was  made  of  it  for  a small 
consideration,  by  the  Mexican  authorities  to  some  of  their  own 
people,  who  felt  their  power  passing  away,  and  wished  to  turn  an 
honest  penny  whilst  there  was  power  left;  but  this  sale  was  un- 
doubtedly fraudulent,  and  will,  I trust,  not  be  acknowledged  by  the 
American  government.  Many  other  missions  have  been  transferred 
in  the  same  way;  and  the  new  government  of  California  must  be 
very  pure  in  its  administration  to  avoid  the  temptations  Waich  these 
fictitious  sales,  made  by  the  retiring  Mexican  authorities,  offer  for 
accumulating  large  fortunes  at  the  expense  of  the  government. 

The  lands  belonging  to  this  mission  are  extensive,  well  watered, 
and  very  fertile.  It  is  said,  and  I believe  it  probable  from  appear- 
ances, that  wheatwill  grow  in  the  valleys  adjacent,  without  irriga- 
tion. 

January  3. — After  marching  a few  miles  the  wide  Pacific  opened 
to  our  view.  We  passed  the  St.  Marguerita  rancheria,  once  a de- 
pendency of  San  Luis  Rey,  now  in  the  possession  of  the  Pico 
family.  We  encamped  near  Flores,  a deserted  mission.  Just  below 
it,  and  near  the  ocean,  is  an  Indian  village.  Cattle  were  seen  in 
great  numbers  to-day,  and  several  well  broken  pairs  of  oxen  were 
picked  up  on  the  way. 

Distance  10.5  miles. 

January  4.— -After  leaving  Flores  a few  miles,  the1  high  broken 
ground  projects  close  in  upon  the  sea,  leaving  but  a narrow,  un- 
even banquette,  along  which  the  road  wends  through  a growth  of 
chapparal. 

Here  we  met  three  persons, ^bearing  a flag  of  truce;  one  an 
Englishman,  named  Workman,  another  Fluge,  a German,  the  third 
a Californian. 

They  brought  a letter  from  Flores,  who  signed  himself  governor 
and  captain  general  of  the  department  of  California,  proposing  to 
suspend  hostilities  in  California,  and  leave  the  battle  to  be  fought 
elsewhere  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  upon  which  was 
to  depend  the  fate  of  California.  There  was  a great  deal  of  other 
matter  in  the  letter,  useless  to  repeat.  The  commission  returned 
with  a peremptory  refusal  of  the  proposition  of  the  governor  and 
captain  general  Flores. 

After  going  nine  miles  from  Flores,  the  high  land  impinges  so 
close  on  the  sea  that  the  road  lies  along  the  sea  beach  for  a dis- 
tance of  eight  miles.  Fortunately  for  us  the  tide  was  out,  and  we 
had  the  advantage  of  a hard,  smooth  road.  Notwithstanding  this, 
our  column  stretched  out  a great  distance,  and  we  were  compelled 
to  make  frequent  halts  for  the  rear  to  come  up. 

This  pass  presents  a formidable  military  obstacle,  and,  in  the 
hands  of  an  intrepid  and  skilful  enemy,  we  could  have  been 
severely  checked,  if  not  beaten  back  from  it;  but  we  passed  unmo- 
lested, and  encamped  late  at  night  on  an  open  plain  at  the  mouth, 


118 


m 

of  the  stream  leading  from  the  mission  of  San  Juan  de  Capristano3. 
and  about  two  miles  from  the  mission. 

It  was  so  dark  I could  not  see  to  lay  off  the  lines  of  the  camp 
accurately,  and  I was  glad,  in  the  morning,  that  an  early  start  gave 
no  time  for  criticism.  Distance  18.8  miles. 

January  5. — The  mission  of  San  Juan  has  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  Pico  family.  The  cathedral  was  once  a fine  strong 
building,  with  an  arched  cupola;  only  one-half  of  the  building,, 
capped  by  a segment  of  the  cupola,  is  now  standing,  the  other  part 
having  been  thrown  down  by  an  earthquake  in  the  year  1822,  kill- 
ing some  thirty  or  forty  persons  who  had  fled  to  it  for  refuge. 

Attracted  by  a house  having  a brush-fence  round  the  door,  as  if 
to  keep  out  intruders,  I was  told  there  were  four  men  within,  in  the 
agonies  of  death,  from  wounds  received  at  the  battle  of  San  Pasqual. 

We  moved  to  the  Alisos  (Sycamore)  rancheria,  where  we  found  a 
spring  of  good  water,  but  nothing  to  eat.  Through  the  kindness  of 
Mr.  Foster,  an  Englishman,  we  received  here  a supply  of  fresh 
horses. 

The  road  was  principally  through  the  valley  of  the  stream  water- 
ing the  mission.  On  each  side  were  beautiful  rounded  hills,  covered 
with  a delicate  tinge  of  green  from  the  grass,  which  was  now  sprout- 
ing freely  near  the  sea-coast. 

Up  to  this  point,  except  a small  patch  at  Flores,  I had  not  seen 
the  mark  of  a plough  or  any  other  instrument  of  husbandry.  The 
rancherias  were  entirely  supported  by  rearing  cattle  and  horses. 
Distance  11.1  miles. 

January  6. — To-day  we  made  a long  march  of  19  miles  to  the 
upper  Santa  Anna,  a town  situated  on  the  river  of  the  same  name. 
We  were  now  near  the  enemy,  and  the  town  gave  evidence  of  it. 
Not  a soul  was  to  be  seen;  the  fe\y  persons  remaining  in  it  were  old 
women,  who,  on  our  approach,  had  bolted  their  doors.  The  leaders 
of  the  Californians,  as  a means  of  inciting  their  people  to  arms,  made 
them  believe  we  w~ou!d  plunder  their  houses  and  violate  their 
women. 

Taking  advantage  of  a deep  ditch  for  one  face  of  the  camp,  it 
was  laid  off  in  a very  defensible  position  between  the  town  and  the 
river,  expecting  the  men  would  have  an  undisturbed  night’s  rest,  to 
be  in  the  morning  ready  for  the  fight,  which  might  now  be  expected 
daily.  In  this  hope  we  were  mistaken.  The  wind  blew  a hurri- 
cane, (something  very  unusual  in  this  part  of  California,)  and  the 
atmosphere  was  filled  with  particles  of  fine  dust,  so  that  one  could 
not  see  and  but  with  difficulty  breathe* 

January  7. — The  wind  continued  to  blow  violently,  which  the 
enemy  should  have  taken  advantage  of  to  attack  us.  Our  weapons 
were  chiefly  fire-arms;  his,  the  lance;  and  I was  quite  certain  that 
in  such  a gale  of  wind  as  then  blew,  the  difficulty  of  loading  our 
arms  would  have  proved  a serious  matter. 

The  Santa  Anna  is  a fine,  dashing  stream,  knee-deep,  and  about 
100  yards  wide,  flowing  over  a sandy  bed.  In  its  valley  are  many 
valuable  vineyards  and  corn  fields.  It  is  capable  of  affording  water 
to  a great  many  more.  On  its  banks  are  considerable  tracts 


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of  uncultivated  land  within  the  level  of  irrigation.  We  now  began 
to  think  there  would  be  more  formidable  and  united  resistance  by 
the  enemy,  but  he  failed  to  show  himself ; and  such  was  the  unani- 
mity of  the  men,  women  and  children,  in  support  of  the  war,  that 
not  a particle  of  information  could  be  obtained  in  reference  to  his 
force  or  position. 

After  travelling  ten  miles  we  came  to  the  Coyotes,  a rancheria 
owned  by  a rich  widow  lady,  who  had  just  married  a handsome 
young  fellow,  who  might  well  pass  for  her  son.  These  people  we 
found  at  home,  and  we  learned  from  them  that  the  enemy  intended 
to  give  us  battle  the  next  day.  Indeed,  as  we  approached  the  ran- 
cheria, several  horsemen  drew  off,  reconnoitring  us  so  closely  as  to 
make  it  doubtful  if  they  were  not  some  of  our  own  vaqueros. 

January  8. — We  passed  over  a country  destitute  of  wood  and  wa- 
ter, undulating  and  gently  dipping  towards  the  ocean,  which  was 
in  view.  About  two  o’clock  we  came  in  sight  of  the  San  Gabriel  river. 
Small  squads  of  horsemen  began  to  show  themselves  on  either  flank, 
and  it  became  quite  apparent  the  enemy  intended  to  dispute  the 
passage  of  the  river. 

Our  progress  was  necessarily  very  slow,  our  oxen  being  poor,  and 
our  wagons  (the  ox-carts  of  the  country)  with  wheels  only  about 
two  feet  in  diameter. 

The  enemy  did  not  yet  discover  his  order  of  battle,  and  we  moved 
to  the  river  in  our  habitual  order  of  march,  when  near  the  enemy, 
viz:  the  2d  division  in  front,  and  the  1st  and  third  on  the  right  and 
left  flanks  respectively;  the  guard  and  a company  of  volunteer 
carbiniers  in  the  rear;  our  cattle  and  the  wagon  train  in  the  centre, 
making  for  them,  what  the  sailors  wittily  termed,  a Yankee  corral. 
The  artillery  were  distributed  on  the  four  angles  of  the  rectangle. 

This  order  of  march  was  adopted  from  the  character  of  the  ene- 
my’s force,  all  of  which  was  mounted;  and  in  a measure  from  our 
own  being  men  unaccustomed  to  field  evolutions,  it  was  necessary 
to  keep  them  habitually  in  the  order  to  resist  cavalry  attacks  when 
in  view  of  the  enemy.  We  had  no  cavalry,  and  the  object  of  the 
enemy  was  to  deprive  us  of  our  cattle  by  sudden  charges. 

The  river  was  about  100  yards  wide,  knee-deep,  and  flowing 
over  quick-sand.  Either  side  was  fringed  with  a thick  undergrowth. 
The  approach  on  our  side  was  level;  that  on  the  enemy’s  was  favor- 
able to  him.  A bank,  fifty  feet  high,  ranged  parallel  with  the  river, 
at  point  blank  cannon  distance,  upon  which  he  posted  his  artillery. 

As  we  neared  the  thicket,  we  received  the  scattering  fire  of  the 
enemy’s  sharp  shooters.  At  the  same  moment,  we  saw  him  place 
four  pieces  of  artillery  on  the  hill,  so  as  to  command  the  passage. 
A squadron  of  250  cavalry  just  showed  their  heads  above  the  hill, 
to  the  right  of  the  battery,  and  the  same  number  were  seen  to  oc- 
cupy a position  on  the  left. 

The  2d  battalion  was  ordered  to  deploy  as  skirmishers,  and  cross 
the  river.  As  the  line  was  about  the  middle  of  the  river,  the  enemy 
opened  his  battery,  and  made  the  water  fly  with  grape  and  round 
shot.  Our  artillery  was  now  ordered  to  cross — it  was  unlimbered, 
pulled  over  by  the  men,  and  placed  in  counter  battery  on  the  ene- 


120 


[7] 

my’s  side  of  the  river.  Our  people,  very  brisk  in  firing,  made  the 
fire  of  the  enemy  wild  and  uncertain.  Under  this  cover,  the 
wagons  and  cattle  were  forced  with  great  labor  across  the  river, 
the  bottom  of  which  was  quick  sand. 

Whilst  this  was  going  on,  our  rear  was  attacked  by  a very  bold 
charge,  and  repulsed. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  river  there  was  a natural  banquette, 
breast  high.  Under  this  the  line  was  deployed.  To  this  accident 
of  the  ground  is  to  be  attributed  the  little  loss  we  sustained  from 
the  enemy’s  artillery,  which  showered  grape  and  round  shot  over 
our  heads.  In  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes  our  baggage  train  had 
all  crossed,  the  artillery  of  the  enemy  was  silenced,  and  a charge 
made  on  the  hill. 

Half  way  between  the  hill  and  the  river,  the  enemy  made  a furious 
charge  on  our  left  flank.  At  the  same  moment,  our  right  was 
threatened.  The  1st  and  2d  battalions  were  thrown  into  squares, 
and  after  firing  one  or  two  rounds,  drove  off  the  enemy.  The  right 
wing  was  ordered  to  form  a square,  but  seeing  the  enemy  hesitate,  the 
order  was  countermanded;  the  1st  battalion,  which  formed  the  right, 
was  directed  to  rush  for  the  hill,  supposing  that  would  be  the  con- 
tested point,  but  great  was  our  surprise  to  find  it  abandoned. 

The  enemy  pitched  his  camp  on  the  hills  in  view,  but  when 
morning  came,  he  was  gone.  We  had  no  means  of  pursuit,  and 
scarcely  the  power  of  locomotion,  such  was  the  wretched  condition 
of  our  wagon  train.  The  latter  it  was  still  deemed  necessary  to 
drag  along  for  the  purpose  of  feeding  the  garrison,  intended  to  be 
left  in  the  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles,  the  report  being  that  the  enemy 
intended,  if  we  reached  that  town,  to  burn  and  destroy  every  arti- 
cle of  food.  Distance  9.3  miles. 

January  9. — The  grass  was  very  short  and  young,  and  our  cattle 
were  not  much  recruited  by  the  night’s  rest;  we  commenced  our 
march  leisurely,  at  9 o’clock,  over  the  u Mesa,”  a wide  plain  be- 
tween the  Rio  San  Gabriel  and  the  Rio  San  Fernando. 

Scattering  horsemen,  and  small  reconnoitring  parties,  hung  on 
our  flanks.  After  marching  five  or  six  miles,  we  saw  the  enemy’s 
line  on  our  right,  above  the  crest  made  by  a deep  indentation  in 
the  plain. 

Here  Flores  addressed  his  men,  and  called  on  them  to  make  one 
more  charge;  expressed  his  confidence  in  their  ability  to  break  our 
line;  said  that  u yesterday  he  had  been  deceived  in  supposing  that 
he  was  fighting  soldiers.” 

We  inclined  a little  to  the  left  to  avoid  giving  Flores  the  advan- 
tage of  the  ground  to  post  his  artillery;  in  other  respects  we  con- 
tinued our  march  on  the  Pueblo  as  if  he  were  not  in  view. 

When  we  were  abreast  of  him,  he  opened  his  artillery  at  a long 
distance,  and  we  continued  our  march  without  halting,  except  for  a 
moment,  to  put  a wounded  man  in  the  cart,  and  once  to  exchange 
a wounded  mule,  hitched  to  one  of  the  guns. 

As  we  advanced,  Fiores  deployed  his  force,  making  a horse  shoe 
in  our  front,  and  opened  his  nine-pounders  on  our  right  flank,  and 
two  smaller  pieces  on  our  front.  The  shot  from  the  nine-pounders 


121 


[7] 

on  our  flank  was  so  annoying  that  we  halted  to  silence  them.  In 
about  fifteen  minutes  this  was  done,  and  the  order  u forward”  again 
given,  when  the  enemy  came  down  on  our  left  flank  in  a scattering 
sort  of  charge,  and  notwithstanding  the  efforts  of  our  officers  to 
make  their  men  hold  their  fire,  they,  as  is  usually  the  case  under 
similar  circumstances,  delivered  it  whilst  the  Californians  were  yet 
about  a hundred  yards  distant.  This  fire  knocked  many  out  of  their 
saddles,  and  checked  them.  A round  of  grape  was  then  fired  upon 
them,  and  they  scattered.  A charge  was  made  simultaneously  with 
this  on  our  rear,  with  about  the  same  success.  We  all  considered 
this  as  the  beginning  of  the  fight,  but  it  was  the  end  of  it.  The 
Californians,  the  most  expert  horsemen  in  the  world,  stripped  the 
dead  horses  on  the  field,  without  dismounting,  and  carried  off  most 
of  their  saddles,  bridles,  and  all  their  dead  and  wounded  on  horse- 
back to  the  hills  to  the  right. 

It  was  now  about  three  o’clock,  and  the  town,  known  to  contain 
great  quantities  of  wine  and  aguardiente,  was  four  miles  distant. 
From  previous  experience  of  the  difficulty  of  controlling  men 
when  entering  towns,  it  was  determined  to  cross  the  river  San  Fer- 
nando, halt  there  for  the  night,  and  enter  the  town  in  the  morning 
with  the  whole  day  before  us.  The  distance  to-day,  6.2  miles. 

After  we  had  pitched  our  camp,  the  enemy  came  down  from  the 
hills,  and  400  horsemen,  with  the  four  pieces  of  artillery,  drew  off 
towards  the  town,  in  order  and  regularity,  whilst  about  sixty  made 
a movement  down  the  river,  on  our  rear  and  left  flank.  This  led 
us  to  suppose  they  were  not  yet  whipped,  as  we  thought,  and  that 
we  should  have  a night  attack. 

January  10. — Just  as  we  had  raised  our  camp,  a flag  of  truce, 
borne  by  Mr.  Selis  a Castilian,  Mr.  Workman  an  Englishman,  and 
Alvarado  the  owner  of  the  rancheria  at  the  Alisos,  was  brought 
into  camp.  They  proposed,  on  behalf  of  the  Californians,  to  sur- 
render their  dear  City  of  the  Angels,  provided  we  would  respect 
property  and  persons.  This  was  agreed  to;  but  not  altogether 
trusting  to  the  honesty  of  General  Flores,  who  had  once  broken 
his  parole,  we  moved  into  the  town  in  the  same  order  we  should  have 
done  if  expecting  an  attack. 

It  was  a wise  precaution,  for  the  streets  were  full  of  desperate 
and  drunken  fellows,  who  brandished  their  arms  and  saluted  us 
with  every  term  of  reproach.  The  crest,  overlooking  the  town,  in 
rifle  range,  was  covered  with  horsemen,  engaged  in  the  same  hos- 
pitable manner.  One  of  them  had  on  a dragoon’s  coat,  stolen  from 
the  dead  body  of  one  our  soldiers  after  we  had  buried  him  at  San 
Pasqual. 

Our  men  marched  steadily  on,  until  crossing  the  ravine  leading 
into  the  public  square,  when  a fight  took  place  amongst  the  Califor- 
nians on  the  hill;  one  became  disarmed,  and  to  avoid  death  rolled 
down  tHe  hill  towards  us,  his  adversary  pursuing  and  lancing  him 
in  the  most  cold-blooded  manner.  The  man  tumbling  down  the  hill 
was  supposed  to  be  one  of  our  vaqueros,  and  the  cry  of  rescue 
him”  was  raised.  The  crew  of  the  Cyane,  nearest  the  scene,  at 
once,  and  without  any  orders,  halted  and  gave  the  man  that  was 


122 


7] 

landing  him  a volley,  strange  to  say  he  did  not  fall.  Almost  at  the 
same  instant,  but  a little  before  it,  the  Californians  from  the  hill 
did  fire  on  the  vaqueros.  The  rifles  were  then  ordered  to  clear  the 
hill,  which  a single  fire  effected,  killing  two  of  the  enemy.  We 
were  now  in  possession  of  the  town;  great  silence  and  mystery 
was  observed  by  the  Californians  in  regard  to  Flores;  but  we  were 
given  to  understand  that  he  had  gone  to  fight  the  force  from  the 
north,  drive  them  back,  and  then  starve  us  out  of  the  town.  To- 
wards the  close  of  the  day  we  learned  very  certainly  that  Flores, 
with  150  men,  chiefly  Sonorians,  and  desperadoes  of  the  country, 
had  fled  to  Sonora,  taking  with  him  four  or  five  hundred  of  the  best 
horses  and  mules  in  the  country,  the  property  of  his  own  friends.  The 
silence  of  the  Californians  was  now  changed  into  deep  and  bitter 
curses  upon  Flores. 

Some  slight  disorder  took  place  among  our  men  at  night,  from 
the  facility  of  getting  wine,  but  the  vigilance  of  the  officers  soon 
suppressed  it. 

January  11. — It  rained  in  torrents  all  day.  I was  ordered  to  se- 
lect a site,  and  place  a fort,  capable  of  containing  a hundred  men; 
with  this  in  view,  a rapid  reconnoissance  of  the  town  was  made,  and 
the  plan  of  a fort  sketched,  so  placed  as  to  enable  a small  garrison 
to  command  the  town  and  the  principal  avenues  to  it.  The  plan 
was  approved.  Many  men  came  in  during  the  day  and  surrendered 
themselves. 

January  12. — I laid  off  the  work,  and,  before  night,  broke  the 
first  ground.  The  population  of  the  town,  and  its  dependencies,  is 
about  3,000;  that  of  the  town  itself,  about  1,500.  It  is  the  centre 
of  wealth  and  population  of  the  Mexico  Californian  people,  and 
has  heretofore  been  the  seat  of  government.  Close  under  the  base 
of  the  mountains,  commanding  the  passes  to  Sonora,  cut  off  from 
the  north  by  the  pass  at  San  Barbara,  it  is  the  centre  of  the  mili- 
tary power  of  the  Californians.  Here  all  the  revolutions  have  had 
their  origin,  and  it  is  the  point  upon  which  any  Mexican  force  from 
Sonora  would  be  directed.  It  was  therefore  desirable  to  establish  a 
fort,  which,  in  case  of  trouble,  should  enable  a small  garrison  to 
hold  out  till  aid  might  comefrom  San  Diego,  San  Francisco,  or  Monte- 
rey, places  which  are  destined  to  become  centres  of  American  settle- 
ments.* 

January  13. — It  rained  steadily  all  day,  and  nothing  wTas  done 
on  the  work;  at  night  I worked  on  the  details  of  the  fort. 

Thursday  14. — We  drank  to-day  the  wine  of  the  country,  manu- 
factured by  Don  LuisVigne,  a Frenchman.  It  was  truly  delicious, 
resembling  more  the  best  description  of  Hock  than  any  other  wine. 

Many  bottles  were  drunk,  leaving  no  headache  or  acidity  on  the 
stomach.  We  obtained,  from  the  same  gentleman,  a profusion  of 
grapes  and  luscious  pears,  the  latter  resembling  in  color  .and  taste 
the  Bergamot  pear,  but  different  in  shape,  being  longer  and  larger. 


* Subsequently  to  my  leaving  the  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles,  the  entire  plan  of  the  fort  was 
changed,  and  I am  not  the  projector  of  the  work  finally  adopted  for  the  defence  of  that  town. 


123 


m 

January  15. — The  details  to  work  on  the  fort  were  by  compa- 
nies. I sent  to  Captain  Tilghman,  who  commanded  on  the  hill,  to 
detach  one  of  the  companies  under  his  command  to  commence  the 
work.  He  furnished,  on  the  16th,  a company  of  artillery  (seamen 
from  the  Congress,)  for  the  day’s  work,  which  they  performed 
bravely,  and  gave  me  great  hopes  of  success. 

January  18,  19,  and  20. — I received  special  orders  which  sepa- 
rated me  from  the  command,  and  the  party  of  topographical  engi- 
neers that  had  been  so  long  under  my  orders. 

The  battles  of  the  6th  December,  and  the  8th  and  9th  January, 
had  forever  broken  the  Mexican  authority  in  California,  and  they 
were  daily  coming  in,  in  large  parties,  to  sue  for  peace,  and  every 
move  indicated  a sincere  desire  on  the  part  of  the  more  respectable 
portion  of  the  Californians  to  yield  without  further  struggle  to  the 
United  States  authorities;  yet  small  parties  of  the  more  desperate 
and  revengeful  hung  about  the  mountains  and  roads;  refusing  or 
hesitating  to  yield  obedience  to  their  leaders,  who  now,  with  great 
unanimity,  determined  to  lay  down  their  arms.  General  Flores, 
with  a small  force,  was  known  to  have  taken  the  road  to  Sonora, 
and  it  was  believed  he  was  on  his  way  to  that  province,  never  to  re- 
turn to  California. 

Leaving  General  Kearny  at  San  Juan  de  Capristano,  on  his  re- 
turn to  San  Diego,  I took  three  men  and  pushed  on  for  the  latter 
place.  Halting  late  in  the  evening  at  the  deserted  Indian  ranche- 
ria  of  Santa  Margarita,  we  broke  open  one  of  the  Indian  huts,  and 
got  some  corn  and  pumpkins  for  our  animals.  When  night  came 
on,  the  number  of  insects  about  the  hut,  and  the  intolerable  noise 
made  by  the  wolves,  kept  us  from  sleep.  The  moon  shone  brightly, 
and  about  ten  at  night  we  saddled  up  to  pursue  our  journey. 

In  this  determination  we  were  confirmed  by  the  unexplained 
movement  of  several  small  parties  of  mounted  Californians  that 
reconnoitred  our  camp;  a circumstance  which  afforded  additional 
proof  that  some  of  the  Californians  were  yet  in  arms,  and  led  us 
very  reasonably  to  the  conclusion  that  our  only  safety  was  in 
changing  our  camp.  We  reached  the  mission  of  San  Luis  Key, 
and  found  not  a human  being  stirring  The  immense  pile  of  build- 
ing, illuminated  by  the  pale  cold  rays  of  the  moon,  stood  out  in  bold 
relief  on  the  dim  horizon;  a monument  of  the  zeal  of  the  indefati- 
gable priests,  by  whom  it  was  built.  Now  untenanted  and  deserted, 
it  offered  no  resting  place  fqr  the  weary  and  hungry,  and  we  rode 
on,  determined  to  halt  at  the  first  place  where  grass  should  be  in 
abundance. 

The  road  here  divides  into  two  branches;  one  leads  to  the  west, 
by  the  rancheria  of  San  Barnardo,  the  other  directly  to  San  Diego, 
over  the  high  lands,  running  nearly  parallel  to  the  sea  coast.  The 
first  is  that  by  which  we  had  marched  on  the  Pueblo  de  los  Ange- 
les, fearing  that  the  hills  on  the  sea  coast  road  would  embarrass  the 
movement  of  our  artillery  and  ox  carts. 

Without  a guide,  we  had  great  difficulty  in  striking  at  night  the 
trail  leading  over  the  mountains;  but  consulting  the  stars  for  our 
course,  and  relying  upon  the  sagacity  of  my  three  men,  who  had 


124 


m 

passed  most  of  their  days  in  traversing  untrodden  regions,  we 
jogged  along,  shivering  with  the  cold  air  of  the  elevated  hills.  ! 

X bout  twelve,  we  came  to  a large  patch  of  luxuriant  grass,  wet 
with  dew.  Upon  this  we  loosened  our  animals  and  attempted  to 
get  a little  sleep,  but,  in  the  absence  of  biankets  or  fire,  the  cold  de- 
prived us  of  repose,  and  the  dawn  of  day  found  us  again  in  our 
saddles. 

The  only  habitation  on  the  road  from  San  Luis  Rey  to  San  Diego 
is  a hut  about  half  way,  where  there  is  a good  spring.  Its  occu- 
pants had  just  returned  from  the  wars,  quite  as  hungry  as  we  were. 
They  had  preceded  us  not  more  than  twenty  minutes,  yet  they  had 
a fat  bullock  killed,  and  choice  bits  of  his  flesh  roasting  before  the 
fire.  We  outnumbered  the  party,  and  consequently  received  their  ' 
hospitality,  which  was  extended  to  us  with  a good  deal  of  bon- 
hommie. 

They  conversed  freely  of  the  battles  fought  but  a few  days  be- 
fore, acknowledged  their  participation  in  them,  and  expressed  them- 
selves satisfied  of  the  uselessness  of  farther  resistance  without  aid 
from  Mexico. 

The  fresh  meat  of  a bullock  is  all  that  is  required  by  the  Califor- 
nian for  breakfast,  dinner,  and  supper. 

Bread,  tea,  and  coffee  are  rarely,  if  ever,  used,  and  even  when 
within  their  reach,  looked  upon  with  indifference. 

We  very  soon  fell  into  their  habits,  and  it  is  probable  the  troops 
in  California,  at  this  time,  would  not  consider  it  an  excessive  hard- 
ship to  make  a campaign  with  no  other  stores  in  the  commissariat 
than  a plentiful  supply  of  fresh  beef.  The  white  teeth  of  the  Cal- 
ifornians, and  the  blood  tingling  in  the  cheeks  of  their  olive  col- 
ored faces  would  seem  to  prove  this  beef  to  be  a very  healthy  diet. 

The  advantages  in  the  movement  of  troops  that  are  contented 
with  this  kind  of  subsistence  is  very  great,  enabling  them  to  move 
without  wagons,  and  with  no  other  care  for  the  morrow  than  herd- 
ing the  animals  intended  for  food. 

Our  host  was  so  well  pleased  with  the  manner  in  which  we  acquit- 
ted ourselves  at  his  rude  repast,  that  forgetting  old  animosities,  he 
saddled  up  his  jaded  horse,  and  piloted  us  for  five  or  six  miles, 
until  we  reached  the  broad  trail,  leading  to  the  Solidad. 

About  midday  we  reached  San  Diego,  and  next  morning  taking 
leave  of  my  men  and  the  animals  that  had  done  us  such  good  ser- 
vice, I embarked  on  board  the  prize  brig  Malek  Adhel,  commanded 
by  Lieutenant  Schenck,  of  the  navy,  and  prepared  to  take  my  leave 
of  Upper  or  Alta  California.  Before  doing  so,  however,  I may 
venture  upon  a few  general  remarks,  based  upon  personal  observa- 
tions, upon  the  topography,  climate,  and  products  of  that  portion 
of  the  country  not  covered  by  my  survey,  or  that  of  others.  These 
observations  were  made  after  I had  become  separated  from  my  as- 
sistants and  instruments,  my  mind  being  engrossed  with  other  sub- 
jects. The  information  contained  in  them  is,  therefore,  less  precise 
than  that  contained  in  other  portions  of  my  journal. 

The  region,  extending  from  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  California 
to  the  parallel  of  the  Pueblo,  or  Ciudad  de  los  Angeles,  is  the  only' 
portion  not  heretofore  covered  by  my  own  notes  and  journal,  or  by 


125  . [ 7 ] 

the  notes  and  journals  of  other  scientific  expeditions  fitted  ouk*Uy 
the  United  States. 

The  journals  and  published  accounts  of  these  several  expeditions 
combined,  will  give  definite  ideas  of  all  those  portions  of  Califor- 
nia susceptible  of  cultivation  or  settlement.  From  this  remark  is 
to  be  excepted  the  vast  basin  watered  by  the  Colorado,  and  the 
country  lying  between  that  river  and  the  range  of  Cordilleras,  rep- 
resented as  running  east  of  Jffie  Tulare  lakes,  and  south  of  the 
parallel  of  36°,  and  the  country  between  the  Colorado  and  Gila 
rivers. 

Of  these  regions  nothing  is  known  except  from  the  reports  of 
trappers,  and  the  speculations  of  geologists.  As  far  as  these  ac- 
counts go,  all  concur  in  representing  it  as  a waste  of  sand  and  rock, 
unadorned  with  vegetation,  poorly  watered,  and  unfit,  it  is  believed, 
for  any  of  the  useful  purposes  of  life.  A glance  at  the  map  will 
show  ! what  an  immense  area  is  embraced  in  these  boundaries;  and, 
notwithstanding  the  oral  accounts  in  regard  to  it,  it  is  difficult  to 
bring  the  mind  to  the  belief  in  the  existence  of  such  a sea  of  waste 
and  desert;  when  every  other  grand  division  of  the  earth  presents 
some  prominent  feature  in  the  economy  of  nature,  administering  to 
the  wants  of  man.  Possibly  this  unexplored  region  may  be  filled 
with  valuable  minerals. 

I have  alluded,  elsewhere,  to  the  population  of  this  country,  the 
savage  character  of  which  is  another  obstacle  to  its  exploration, 
and  has  tended  to  veil  in  mystery  its  true  character  and  resources. 

Alta  California,  between  the  31st  and  34th  parallels  of  latitude, 
presents  to  the  eastern  man,  accustomed  to  navigable  rivers  and 
broad  estuaries  of  the  ocean,  topographical  features  of  a very  un- 
usual character. 

Two  chains  of  mountains  traverse  the  country  in  a direction 
nearly  parallel  to  the  sea  coast,  slightly  converging  towards  each 
other,  and  finally  uniting  near  the  parallel  of  32°.  Here  they  form 
the  promontory  of  Lower  California,  extending  its  entire  length, 
and  terminating  abruptly  in  the  ocean,  at  Cape  San  Lucas. 

The  first  chain  (that  nearest  the  coast)  may  be  considered  a 
steppe  of  the  second  or  interior  range  of  mountains.  It  impinges 
on  the  coast  at  three  different  points,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Juan  de 
Capristano,  and  between  San  Luis  Rey  and  San  Diego — at  the 
first  two  places  with  so  much  boldness  as  to  make  it  necessary  to 
conduct  the  road  along  the  margin  of  the  sea,  between  the  lines  of 
high  and  low  water  mark,  so  that  both  Santa  Barbara  and  San  Juan 
present  points  worthy  of  consideration  to  the  military  command- 
ant charged  with  the  defence  of  that  country. 

Between  the  first  and  second  ranges  of  mountains  there  is  a val- 
ley, traversed  by  a good  road,  leading  directly  from  the  great  desert 
to  the  Pueblo  de  los  Angeles,  and  a defending  force  would  meet  its 
adversary  to  the  greatest  advantage  at  Cariso  Creek,  the  termina- 
tion of  the  u jornada”  across  the  desert.  The  description  and  lo- 
cality of  Cariso  Creek  has  already  been  given. 

The  second  or  principal  range  of  mountains  lies  at  no  great  dis- 
tance from  the  first,  and  the  valley  between  offers  some  arable  land. 
The  distance  between  the  first  range  and  the  sea  coast  varies  from 


126 


[7] 

1 to  20  or  30  miles.  The  surface  covered  with  vegetation,  though 
small,  is  difficult  to  estimate;  and  perhaps  it  is  unimportant  that 
an  estimate  should  be  made,  since  the  productiveness  of  these  re- 
gions depends  on  other  considerations  than  smoothness  of  surface, 
and  character  of  soil.  The  rains  cannot  be  relied  upon,  and  the 
tiller  of  the  earth  depends  upon  irrigation  from  the  mountain 
streams  for  his  crops.  The  extent  of  ground,  capable  of  tillage, 
is  thus  reduced  to  very  narrow  limits,  easy  of  computation.  A 
knowledge  of  the  water  courses,  their  fall,  volume  and  extent,  and 
the  quantity  of  lands  on  their  margin,  within  the  level  of  these 
waters,  are  the  data  upon  which  the  computation  must  be  based. 

Taking  this  as  a guide,  an  inspection  of  the  accompanying  map 
will  give  a general  idea  of  the  extent  of  arable  ground,  sufficiently 
correct  for  all  practical  purposes;  but,  in  candor  it  should  be  said, 
that  many  streams  laid  down  in  it  disappear  in  the  sand,  while  the 
rocky  cliffs,  forming  the  banks  of  others,  render  irrigation  im- 
practicable. The  scale  upon  which  the  map  is  projected  is  too  small 
to  represent  these  accidents  of  the  ground. 

Where  irrigation  can  be  had  in  this  country,  the  produce  of  the 
soil  is  abundant  beyond  description.  All  the  grains  and  fruits  of 
the  temperate  zones,  and  many  of  those  of  the  tropical,  flourish 
luxuriantly. 

Descending  from  the  heights  of  San  Barnardo  to  the  Pacific,  one 
meets  every  degree  of  temperature.  Near  the  coast,  the  winds 
prevailing  from  the  southwest  in  winter,  and  from  the  northwest  in 
summer,  produce  a great  uniformity  of  temperature,  and  the  climate 
is  perhaps  unsurpassed  in  salubrity.  With  the  exception  of  a very 
few  cases  of  ague  and  fever  of  a mild  type,  sickness  is  unknown. 

The  season  of  the  year  at  which  we  visited  the  country  was  un- 
favorable to  obtaining  a knowledge  of  its  botany.  The  vegetation, 
mostly  deciduous,  had  gone  to  decay,  and  no  flowers  nor  seeds  were 
collected.  The  country  generally,  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees. 
Along  the  principal  range  of  mountains  are  a few  live  oaks%,  syca- 
more, and  pine;  now  and  then,  but  very  rarely,  the  sycamore  and 
cotton  wood  occur  in  the  champaign  country,  immediately  on  the 
margins  of  the  streams. 

Wild  oats  every  where  cover  the  surface  of  the  hills,  and  these, 
with  the  wild  mustard  and  carrots,  furnish  good  pasturage  to  the 
immense  herds  of  cattle,  which  form  the  staple  of  California. 

Of  the  many  fruits  capable  of  being  produced  with  success,  by 
culture  and  irrigation,  the  grape  is  perhaps  that  which  is  brought 
nearest  to  perfection. 

Men  experienced  in  growing  it,  and  Europeans,  pronounce  the 
soil  and  climate  of  this  portion  of  California,  unequalled  for  the 
quality  of  the  grape  and  the  wine  expressed  from  it. 

We  sailed  from  San  Diego  on  the  25th  of  January,  and  coasted 
along  the  rocky  and  barren  shores  of  Lower  California.  The  in- 
formation in  reference  to  this  country,  which  it  was  in  my  power  to 
obtain,  is  not  so  precise  as  that  which  might  be  derived  from  an  ac- 
tual survey,  and  I have  therefore  embodied  it  in  the.  appendix.  • 

I have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  yours, 

W.  H.  EMORY. 


127 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  1. 


New  York,  October  1,  1847. 

Dear  Sir:  I return  you  my  thanks  for  the  very  interesting  infor- 
mation contained  in  your  letter  of  the  20th  of  September.* 

It  unfortunately  happens  that  I cannot  wait  for  the  arrival  of 
your  papers,  or  for  the  publication  of  the  map  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment. My  essay  makes  part  of  the  second  volume  of  the  transac- 
tions of  the  New  York  Ethnological  Society.  The  work  is  now  in 
the  press,  completed  with  the  exception  of  my  essay;  and  the  prin- 
ter presses  me  for  it.  The  map,  which  will  accompany  it,  is  prin- 
cipally intended  to  show  the  original  abodes  of  the  Indian  tribes. 
It  wTill  be  presented  as  a sketch,  without  pretensions  to  accurate 
correctness.  But  there  is  a consideration,  which  makes  me  anxious 
to  obtain  every  possible  information  respecting  the  Rio  Gila,  and 
especially  its  upper  waters. 

You  may  not  be  aware  that  a work  has  lately  been  recovered  and 
published,  which  contains  a full  and  authentic  account  of  an  expe- 
dition in  the  year  1540-1542,  by  order  of  the  viceroy  Mindoca, 
and  under  the  conduct  of  Yasquez  Coronado.  It  consisted  of  350 
Spaniards  and  800  Indians.  Setting  off  from  Culiacan,  they  reached 
the  sources  of  the  Rio  Gila,  passed  across  the  mountains  to  the 
Rio  del  Norte,  wintered  twice  in  the  province  now  called  New 
Mexico,  explored  it  through  its  whole  length,  from  north  to  south, 
and  afterwards,  taking  a northeast  course,  crossed  the  mountains, 
reached  the  buffalo  plains,  through  which  they  wandered  a consi- 
derable distance  eastwardly,  and  as  far  north  as  the  40th  degree  of 
latitude.  Finding  no  gold,  they  returned  to  Mexico.  The  Span 
iards  did  not  re-enter  the  country  till  the  year  1581;  and  the  con 
quest  of  New  Mexico  was  not  completed  till  about  the  year  1595. 

The  veracity  of  the  narrator,  Castenador,  who  was  a volunteer 
in  the  expedition,  and  who  wrote  the  account  twenty  years  after,  is 
fully  established  by  a variety  of  circumstances,  too  multiplied  to  be 
inserted  here.  It  is  sufficient  to  say,  that  the  Indians  of  the  Rio 
Gila,  and  of  the  upper  valley  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  were  an  agri- 
cultural people,  cultivating  maize,  beans,  pumpkins,  and  cotton; 
depending  exclusively  on  agriculture  for  their  subsistence,  dwelling 
in  villages  built  of  mud,  (torchis,)  mixed  with  certain  balls  of  har- 
dened matter,  and  well  cemented  together.  The  houses  were  gener- 
ally four  stories  high,  with  no  opening  on  the  first  floor,  accessible 
only  by  moveable  ladders,  with  top  terraces,  and  an  under  ground 
apartment  occupied  exclusively  by  the  men,  and  used  as  estufas ; 


* This  letter  gives  a general  outline  of  the  route,  and  twenty  words  of  tho  Coco  Mariko- 
pas  language,  and  a few  of  the  Pinros. 


128 


[7] 

in  short,  similar  in  every  respect  to  the  existing  pueblos  of  New 
Mexico,  and  to  the  ruins  of  the  Casas  Grandes  described,  as  I think, 
erroneously  to  the  Aztecs. 

With  respect  to  New  Mexico,  one  principal  want  is  that  of  voca- 
bularies, which  would  at  once  settle  the  question  of  identity  with 
any  of  the  Mexican  nations.  The  same  difficulty  exists  with  re- 
spect to  all  the  tribes  of  the  country  drained  by  the  great  Rio  Co- 
lorado of  the  west.  But  there  is  an  additional  embarrassment  re- 
specting the  actual  situation  of  what  were  called  the  seven  villages 
of  Cibala;  of  which  we  can  only  say,  that  they  were  situated  in  a 
narrow  valley  six  leagues  long,  and  on  the  very  sources  of  some 
one  branch  of  the  Rio  Gila. 

The  phenomenon  of  this  insulated  semi-civilized  population,  is 
in  itself  remarkable,  and  difficult  to  be  explained;  and  the  discovery 
of  the  precise  spot,  where  the  seven  Cibala  villages  were  situated, 
is  especially  desirable.  With  this  object  in  view,  I beg  leave  to 
submit  to  you  the  following  queries. 

1st.  On  leaving  the  copper  mines,  on  the  18th  of  October,  and 
after  having  crossed  the  Sierra  Mimbres,  you  reached  the  main 
branch  of  the  river  Gila  on  the  20th;  now  what  I wish  to  knew,  is, 
from  what  quarter  did  that  main  branch  come,  or  in  other  words, 
if  you  had  ascended  that  main  branch,  what  was  its  apparent  course? 
What  was  the  distance  from  the  western  foot  of  the  Sierra  Mim- 
bres to  that  main  branch  where  you  struck  it?  Did  you,  along  that 
distance,  cross  any  tributary  streams  of  the  Rio  Gila,  and  from 
what  quarter  did  they  come? 

2d.  Can  you  furnish  me  with  the  approximate  latitude  of  some 
of  the  principal  points  observed  when  descending  the  river;  prin- 
cipally the  junction  of  the  Salmas,  the  village  of  the  Pimos  In- 
dians, any  other  spot  where  evident  traces  of  ruins  were  discovered, 
and  the  mouth  of  the  river  Gila.  From  what  quarter  did  the  river 
Salmas  come  ? Did  you  carry  time  with  you,  so  as  to  obtain  the 
relative  longitude  of  some  points  ? The  most  important  would  be 
the  spot  where  you  left  the  Rio  del  Norte,  that  where  you  struck 
the  main  branch  of  the  Gila,  the  mouth  of  the  Salmas,  the  Pimos 
village,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Gila.  If  you  had  no  other  means, 
still  your  travelled  distance  may  give  a rough  approximation. 

It  seems  to  me  that  the  easiest  way  to  answer  these  two  queries, 
would  be  a rough  approximate  sketch  of  the  country  traversed  by 
you.  I will  take  special  care  not  to  commit  you  in  any  way.  I 
km  no  plagiarist,  and  I must  in  general  terms  acknowledge  that  I 
am  indebted  to  you  for  some  important  information;  but  I will  at 
the  same  time  refer  to  your  intended  complete  report  and  map, 
which  will  give  that  precise  information  which  was  not  within  my 
reach. 

3d.  You  did  not  visit  the  mouth  of  the  great  Rio  Colorado:  but 
. General  Kearny  states  in  his  letter  that  the  mouth  of  the  Gila  was 
in  about  latitude  32°;  that  he  crossed  the  Colorado  ten  miles  below, 
and  marched  near  it  for  thirty  miles,  when  he  left  it,  (turning  off 
eastwardly  across  the  desert,)  without  having  reached  its  mouth. 
Now  the  generality  of  our  maps  place  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado 


ld.th./ljy  I .Weber  frCo.Balto 


129 


% 

In  latitude  32°,  and  it  is  clear  from  what  precedes-,  that  it  must  be 
nearly  one  degree  further  south.  Do  you  think  that  I may  in  my 
sketch  set  it  down  at  about  latitude  31°? 

4th.  The  cultivation  of  cotton  is  one  of  great  general  impor- 
tance. As  now  informed,  I believe  that,  independent  of  varieties,, 
there  are  but  two  distinct  species:  the  black  seed,  which  is  the  na- 
tive American,  and  found  as  such  no  where  else,  and  the  green 
seed,  which  adheres  to  the  staple,  of  Asiatic  origin,  thence  brought 
to  the  Levant  and  the  Mediterraenean,  and  imported  into  North 
America,  of  which  it  was  not  a native.  I cannot  obtain  in  this  city 
a copy  of  Bomplant’s  great  botanical  work,  which  would  have  thrown 
much  light  on  the  subject.  I wish  now  to  know,  whether  you  took 
any  notice  of  the  cotton  cultivated  by  the  Pimos,  and  what  species 
it  was?  I presume  that  it  was  not  a native  of  that  region,  and 
that  the  seed  must  have  been  imported  from  Mexico. 

I now  proceed  to  that  which  relates  to  the  Indians,  who  are  the 
principal  objects  opmy  researches. 

1st.  I have  compared  your  vocabulary  of  the  Coco  Maricopas 
with  those  of  the  four  Mexican  languages  in  my  possession,  and  of 
thirty-two  well  ascertained  families  of  Indians,  living  within  the 
United  States  or  further  north,  and  have  found  no  resemblance  with 
either.  It  is  to  me  a quite  new  language,  but  there  is  a remarkable 
word.  Apache  is  the  word  for  man ; and  judging  by  analogy  from 
several  other  Indian  languages,  they  should  be  Apaches  or  belong- 
ing to  that  family.  Thus,  for  instance,  amongst  the  Algonquin 
tribes,  the  names  assumed  by  two  of  them,  Illinois  and  Linno  Li- 
nap,  are  evidently  derived  from  Linno,  a man.  However  this  may 
be,  I wish  to  have  some  further  information  respecting  that  tribe; 
to  know  with  as  much  precision  as  you  can,  the  quarter  whence 
they  came;  their  present  location  in  reference  to  the  Pimos,  and  par- 
ticularly whether  and  what  they  do  cultivate;  also,  whether  they 
are  wilder  than  the  Pimos,  and  whether  on  good  terms  with  them. 

2d.  You  say  that  the  accounts,  by  report,  of  the  Indians  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Gila  are  conflicting  and  of  an  indefinite  character. 
This  observation  applies  to  every  information  derived  from  other 
sources.  We  have  as  yet  only  vague  rumors.  Yet  I wish  to  col- 
lect all  these,  as  far  as  possible.  A few  legitimate  inferences  may, 
perhaps,  be  drawn  by  comparing  them  together;  but  it  is  principally 
for  the  purpose  of  enabling  me  to  point  out  the  most  important  ob- 
jects of  inquiry  that  I wish  to  be  thus  informed.  You  will,  there- 
fore, oblige  me  by  communicating  such  rough  notes  as  you  may 
have  taken  on  that  subject,  and  also  what  were  the  abodes  and 
occupations  of  the  few  scattered  Indians  whom  you  met  on  your 
journey. 

(a.)  Have  you,  by  any  direct  observation,  ascertained  within  30' 
the  positive  longitude,  in  reference  to  Greenwich,  of  any  point  on 
the  Rio  del  Norte  or  vicinity  which  may  serve  as  a starting  point  ? 

There  must  be  some  kind  of  a dividing  ridge  which  separates  the 
waters  of  the  river  Gila  from  the  waters  that  empty  into  the  gulf 
of  California.  From  what  you  say  of  Colonel  Cooke’s  route,  I 
would  infer  that  he  left  the  Rio  Norte  a short  distance  above  El 
9 


130 


m 

Tasso,  and  that  he  must  have  travelled  south  of  that  ridge,  in  an 
almost  due  west  course  to  the  Rio  Colorado. 

I use  the  word  u Sierra  Madre  55  in  the  sense  attached  to  it  by 
the  Mexicans,  viz:  that  ridge  which  separates  the  waters  that  fall 
into  the  Atlantic  from  the  rivers  which  empty  into  the  Pacific 
ocean,  without  any  regard  to  its  elevation. 

I pray  you  to  accept  the  assurances  of  my  distinguished  consid- 
eration and  personal  regard. 

Your  most  obedient  and  faithful  servant, 

ALBERT  GALLATIN. 

To  Lieutenant  W.  H.  Emory, 

U.  S.  Topographical  Engineers , Washington. 


Washington,  October  8,  1847. 

Dear  Sir:  In  answer  to  vour  letter  of  the  1st  instant,  I have  the 
pleasure  to  send  you,  with  the  permission  of  the  chief  of  my  de- 
partment, a table  of  twenty-three  geographical  positions  determined 
by  myself,  which  you  are  at  liberty  to  use;  and,  should  you  think 
the  information  of  sufficient  importance,  I should  feel  much  flat- 
tered that  you  should,  as  you  propose,  communicate  them  to  the 
Ethnological  Society  of  New  York  for  publication. 

No  astronomical  observations,  that  I am  aware  of,  have  ever  be- 
fore been  made  on  the  same  grounds,  if  we  except  the  observations 
of  Dr.  Coulter  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gila,  which  have  never  yet  been 
published. 

You  will  see  that  the  position  of  the  Gila  is  very  much  changed; 
as  well  as  that  of  Santa  Fe,  in  New  Mexico. 

The  observations  were  made  with  an  8J  inch  sextant,  constructed 
by  the  celebrated  Gambey,  of  Paris.  In  most  cases,  the  determina- 
tions of  the  places  in  latitude  are  the  mean  of  the  results  obtained 
by  many  observations  on  north  and  south  stars,  of  nearly  equal 
altitudes,  by  which  the  errors  of  eccentricity,  &c.,  in  the  instru- 
ment were  avoided. 

The  longitudes  are  derived  from  a combination  of  the  results 


i 


1 


from  the  chronometers,  and  measurement  of  distances  between  tjj*# 
moon  and  stars,  nearly  equi-distant  on  either  side  of  it. 

The  chronometers  used  were  two  very  good  box  chronometers, 
by  Parkinson  & Frodsham,  (Nos.  783  and  2075.) 

The  observations  themselves,  including  those  between  Santa  Fe 
and  Fort  Leavenworth,  (our  point  of  departure,)  in  number  2,500 
or  3,000,  were  all  computed  in  the  field,  and  are  now  undergoing 
verification  by  Professor  Hubbard,  a very  accurate  young  computer, 
attached  to  the  observatory  at  Washington. 

The  computations  for  all  the  points  embraced  in  the  table  sent 
you,  have  been  verified. 

The  objects  of  our  expedition  being  purely  military,  the  subjects 
of  interest  to  scientific  men  were  only  pursued  so  far  as  they  were 
incidental  to  the  expedition,  and  did  not  interfere  with  its  great  ob- 
ject. The  instruments  with  which  I was  furnished  were  not  those. 


131 


[7] 

perhaps,  which  I would  have  selected;  at  the  same  time  there 
was  nothing  for  me  to  regret,  except  the  absence  of  a good  portable 
telescope,  with  which  occultations  of  the  fixed  stars  by  the  moon, 
and  the  immersion  of  Jupiter’s  satellites,  could  have  been  observed, 
and  a few  pocket  chronometers. 

We  left  Washington  on  twenty-four  hours’  notice,  and  time  was 
not  allowed  to  procure  either  the  telescope  or  pocket  chronometers. 

1st.  We. struck  the  Gila,  as  the  table  will  show,  in  latitude  32°" 
44  52"  and  longitude  108°  45;  west  from  Greenwich;  thence  its 
course  is  very  nearly  west.  As  well  as  we  could  judge  from  the 
course  of  the  mountains,  its  course  from  that  point  to  its  source 
was  not  very  far  from  northeast  or  southwest. 

No  tributaries  to  the  Gila  were  crossed  before  reaching  it,  except 
one  named  by  me  Night  creek,  a very  insignificant  stream.  The 
Sierra  Mimbres,  6,000  feet  above  the  sea  at  the  highest  point  where 
we  crossed  it,  falls  gradually  and  almost  imperceptibly  to  the 
Gila. 

2d.  Your  second  interrogatory  is  answered  principally,  by  the 
table  of  geographical  positions. 

The  Rio  Salinas  comes  in  from  the  northeast , a little  west  and 
north  of  camp  97,  of  November  12.  (See  table.)  This  camp,  the 
astronomical  position  of  which  is  given  in  the  table,  is  about  mid- 
way between  the  villages  of  the  Pimos  and  Coco  Marricopas  In- 
dians. 

3d.  The  table  will  show  you  that  the  junction  of  the  Gila  and 
Colorado  is  on  the  parallel  of  32°  43'  or  4';  and,  in  the  absence  of 
more  specific  information,  I would  advise  you  to  place  the  mouth 
of  the  Colorado  on  the  parallel  of  31°  51',  which  is  the  latitude 
given  it  by  Lieutenant  Hardy,  of  the  royal  navy,  whose  little  book 
of  travels  in  Mexico  you  have  no  doubt  seen. 

4th.  Specimens  of  the  seed  of  the  cotton  grown  by  the  Pimos 
were  obtained,  but  they  have  not  yet  reached  me.  Overcoming 
space  was  the  great  object  we  had  in  view  when  we  passed  the 
Pimos,  and  our  investigations  and  collections  were  necessarily  hasty 
and  superficial.  We  passed  with  them  only  the  part  of  a day, 
whereas,  if  exploration  alone  had  been  the  object  of  our  party,  I 
should  have  considered  a week  as  little  enough  to  have  devoted  to 
this  interesting  people.  When  I left  California,  it  was  as  a special 
envoy  to  the  government,  and  on  so  short  a notice  that  many  of 
my  collections  and  notes  were  left  behind,  with  my  assistants. 
Among  the  things  so  left,  were  the  seed  of  the  cotton. 

Most  of  the  plants  collected,  however,  were  brought  home. 
These  will  show  a very  complete  history  of  the  botany  of  the  coun- 
try. They  are  in  the  hands  of  Doctor  Torrey,  who  is  preparing 
an  elaborate  catalogue  and  drawings  of  those  plants,  heretofore 
unknown.  This  catalogue  I should  be  very  glad  to  place  at  the 
disposal  of  your  society. 

The  Coco  Marricopas  Indians  come  from  the  West.  So  late  as 
1826,  Mr.  Kit  Carson,  one  of  our  guides,  met  these  people  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Colorado.  Subsequently  to  that  period,  they  were 
visited  by  Dr,  Anderson  (whom  we  met  in  Santa  Fe)  at  a point 


[ 7 J ' 132 

about 'half  way  between  their  present  village  and  the  mouth  of  the 

Gila  river. 

Th  ey  are  taller  and  more  athletic  than  the  Pimos,  and  what 
struck  me  as  very  remarkable,  the  men  had  generally  aquiline  noses, 
whilst  those  of  the  women  were  retroussers. 

They  occupy  thatched  cottages,  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  diameter, 
made  of  the  twigs  of  cotton  wood  trees,  interwoven  with  the  straw 
of  wheat,  corn  stalks,  and  cane. 

Cotton,  wheat;  maize,  beans,  pumpkins,  and  watermelons  are  the 
chief  agricultural  products  of  these  people.  Their  fields  are  laid 
off  in  squares,  and  watered,  by  the  Zequias,  from  the  Gila  river. 
Th  eir  implements  of  husbandry  are  the  wooden  plough,  the  harrow, 
and  the  cast-steel  axe,  (procured  probably  from  Sonora.)  They 
have  but  few  cattle,  and  not  many  horses.  I observed,  domestica- 
ted among  them,  ducks,  chickens,  and  pigs.  They  had  many  or- 
naments of  sea-shells,  showing,  in  my  opinion,  their  recent  migra- 
tion from  the  gulf.  From  the  character  given  of  them  by  Carson, 
when  he  saw  them  in  1826,  although  they  were  then  an  agricultural 
people,  I should  think  they  had  learned  much  by  their  proximity 
to  their  neighbors,  the  Pimos,  whom  they  acknowledge  as  politi- 
cally their  superiors,  and  with  whom  they  live  on  terms  of  inti- 
mate and  cordial  friendship. 

The  Marricopas  impressed  me  as  a more  sprightly  race  than  the 
Pimos;  the  interpreters  of  the  Pimos  were  all  natives  of  the  Mar- 
ricopas band. 

The  dress  of  both  nations  or  bands  was  the  same.  That  of  the 
men  a breech  cloth  and  a cotton  serape  of  ^domestic  manufacture; 
that  of  the  women  the  same  kind  of  serape  pinned  around  the  waist 
and  falling  below  the  knees,  leaving  the  breast  and  arms  bare. 

Both  nations  cherished  an  aversion  to  war,  and  a profound  at- 
tachment to  all  the  peaceful  pursuits  of  life.  This  predilection 
arose  from  no  incapaciiy  for  war,  for  they  were  at  all  times  able 
and  willing  to  keep  the  Apaches,  whose  hands  are  raised  against 
all  other  people,  at  a respectful  distance,  and  prevent  depredations 
by  those  mountain  robbers,  who  hold  Chihuahua,  Sonora,  and  a 
part  of  Durango  in  a condition  approaching  almost  to  tributary 
provinces. 

They  have  a high  regard  for  morality,  and  punish  transgressions 
more  by  public  opinion  than  by  fines  or  corporeal  punishments. 
Polygamy  is  unknown  amongst  them,  and  the  crime  of  adultery, 
punished  with  such  fearful  penalties  amongst  Indian  nations  gener- 
ally, is  here  almost  unknown,  and  is  punished  by  the  contempt  of 
the  relatives  and  associates  of  the  guilty  parties. 

The  Ind  ians  we  met  between  the  Del  Norte  and  the  Pimos  set- 
tlement were  mostly  wild  Indians  of  the  great  Apache  nation, 
which  inhabits  all  the  country  north  and  south  of  the  Gila,  and  both 
sides  of  the  Del  Norte,  about  the  parallel  of  the  Jornada  and  Dead 
Man’s  lakes. 

They  h ave  no  fixed  habits,  and  the  only  vestiges  of  their  abodes 
which  we  saw  were  temporary  sheds,  a few  feet  high,  made  of  the 


133  [ 7 ] 

twigs  of  trees.  They  live  principally  by  plundering  the  Mexicans 
of  New  Mexico,  Chihuahua,  Sonora,  and  Durango. 

No  vocabulary  of  their  language  was  procured.  I am  inclined 
to  think  they  extend  up  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Gila. 

Beyond  them  to  the  north  is  the  warlike  nation  of  the  Navajoes, 
who,  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  thinks,  are  allied  to  the  Crow  Indians. 

Near  the  head  waters  of  the  Salinas,  which  runs  in  a course,  it  is 
said,  nearly  northeast  and  southwest,  is  a band  of  Indians  called  the 
Soones,  who,  in  manners,  habits,  and  pursuits,  are  said  to  resemble 
the  Pimos,  except  that  they  live  in  houses  scooped  from  the  solid 
jock.  Many  of  them  are  Albinos,  which  may  be  the  consequence 
of  their  cavernous  dwellings.  Surrounded  by  the  warlike  Navajoe, 
and  the  thieving  Apache,  they  nevertheless  till  their  soil  in  peace 
and  security. 

Coming  farther  east,  we  reach  the  San  Jose,  a tributary  to  the 
Puerco,  which  is  tributary  to  the  Rio  del  Norte  from  the  west , 
not  the  Rio  Puerco  represented  on  the  map  to  flow  into  the  Del 
Norte  south  of  El  Passo. 

Here  is  an  Indian  race  living  in  four  story  houses,  built  upon  rocky 
promontories  inaccessible  to  a savage  foe,  cultivating  the  soil  and 
answering  the  description  of  the  seven  cities  of  Vasquez  Coronado, 
except  in  their  present  insignificance  in  size  and  population,  and 
the  fact  that  the  towns,  though  near  each  other,  are  not  in  ua  (con- 
tinuous)  valley  six  leagues  long,”  but  on  different  branches  of  the 
same  stream.  The  names  of  these  towns  are  Cibolleta,  Moquino, 
Pojuato,  Covero,  Acona,  Laguna,  Poblacon;  the  last  a ruin. 

I did  not  visit  these  towns  in  person;  but  I hope  to  get  a minute 
description  froim  one  who  did,  and,  should  I succeed,  it  will  be  sent 
to  you. 

The  work  you  mention,  of  Castenada,  has  never  been  seen  by 
me.  My  own  impression,  and  it  is  so  stated  in  my  journal,  is  that 
the  many  ruins  we  saw  on  the  Gila  might  well  be  attributed  to 
Indians  of  the  races  we  saw  in  New  Mexico,  and  on  the  Gila  itself. 
I mean  by  the  last,  the  Pimos,  who  might  easily  have  lost  the  art  of 
building  adobe  or  mud  houses.  In  all  respects,  except  their  dwell- 
ings, they  appeared  to  be  of  the  same  race  as  the  builders  of  the 
numberless  houses  now  level  with  the  ground  on  the  Gila  river. 

The  implement  for  grinding  corn,  and  the  broken  pottery,  were 
the  only  vestiges  of  the  mechanical  arts  which  we  saw  amongst  the 
ruins,  with  the  exception  of  a few  ornaments,  principally  immense 
well  turned  beads,  the  size  of  a hen’s  egg. 

The  same  corn  grinder  and  pottery  are  now  in  use  among  the 
Pimos.  The  corn  grinder  is  merely  a large  stone,  well  worn, 
slightly  concave,  and  another  of  different  shape,  convex;  intended 
to  fit  the  first  and  crush  the  corn  between  by  the  pressure  of  the 
hand. 

The  ruins  on  the  Gila  were  first  seen  at  camp  81,  the  position  of 
which  is  shown  in  the  table,  from  thence  to  the  Pimos  village. 
Wherever  the  mountains  did  not  impinge  too  close  on  the  river  and 
shut  out  the  valley,  they  were  seen  in  great  abundance,  enough,  I 
should  think,  to  indicate  a former  population  of  at  least  one  hun- 


134 


[7] 

dred  thousand;  and  in  one  place, between  camps  91  and  97,  there  is 
a long  wide  valley,  twenty  miles  in  length,  much  of  which  is 
covered  with  the  ruins  of  buildings  and  broken  pottery. 

These  ruins  are  uniformly  of  the  same  kind;  not  one  stone  now 
remains  on  the  top  of  the  other;  and  they  are  only  discoverable  by 
the  broken  pottery  around  them,  and  stone  laid  in  regular  order, 
showing  the  trace  of  the  foundation  of  a house. 

Most  of  these  outlines  are  rectangular,  and  vary  from  40  x 50 
to  200  and  400  feet  front.  The  stone  are  unhewn,  and  are  most  of 
an  amygdaloid,  rounded  by  attrition. 

Now  of  the  tributaries  which  come  into  the  Gila  from  the  north, 
there  are  several  besides  the  Salinas,  which,  at  their  mouths,  are 
insignificant  in  size  and  can  be  stepped  across;  but  in  this  whole 
region  no  legitimate  inference  can  be  drawn  of  the  size  of  a river, 
throughout  its  course,  from  that  at  any  one  point. 

It  may  be  large  near  its  source,  and  after  traversing  deserts  of 
sand,  through  arid  regions,  unvratered  by  rains,  become  very  small, 
and  even  disappear  altogether. 

Therefore,  except  the  Salinas,  of  which  we  have  oral  accounts, 
nothing  is  known  or  can  be  inferred  of  the  magnitude  of  these  tri- 
butaries from  their  appearance  at  the  junction.  These  tributaries 
come  in  near  camp  81,  where  the  mountains  are  so  precipitous  and 
bold  no  conjecture  can  be  formed  of  their  course. 

The  Salinas  must  have  been  the  branch  by  which  the  expedition 
of  Coronado  ascended  and  crossed  into  New  Mexico.  Its  general 
direction  is  not  far  from  a line  drawn  from  its  mouth  to  Santa  Fe, 
and  nearly  in  this  line  are  the  seven  towns  mentioned  as  being  on 
the  head  waters  of  the  San  Jose.  Indians  now  pass  from  the  Pimos 
village  to  New  Mexico  on  this  route. 

I omitted  to  mention  in  its  proper  place,  that  we  were  informed 
by  an  intelligent  Marricopas  Indian  that,  about  fifty  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Salinas,  was  now  standing,  in  a perfect  state  of  pre- 
servation, the  walls  of  a large  three  story  building  of  mud,  with  its 
interior  sides  glazed  and  finely  polished,  and  about  it  was  to  be 
seen  many  traces  of  large  acequias,  and  broken  pottery  in  great 
abundance. 

There  is  another  tribe  of  Indians  called  the  Moquis,  who,  like 
the  Pimos  and  Soones,  cultivate  the.  soil  and  live  in  peace  with 
their  neighbors;  but  the  exact  locality  of  this  tribe  I do  not  know, 
beyond  the  fact  that  it  is  on  or  near  the  head  waters  of  some  of 
the  tributaries  of  the  Gila. 

I am,  with  great  respect,  your  obedient  servant, 

W.  H.  EMORY. 


135 


7] 


APPENDIX  No.  2. 


College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons, 

New  York , February  10,  1848. 

My  Dear  Sir:  I have  examined  the  interesting  collection  of 
plants  which  you  kindly  placed  at  my  disposal,  and  herewith  send 
you  a list  of  them,  as  complete  as  my  numerous  engagements  per- 
mit  me  to  make  at  present.  The  route  which  you  passed  over  is 
exceedingly  rich  in  botanical  treasures,  as  is  evident  from  the  num- 
ber of  new  species  and  genera  which  you  were  enabled  to  make 
under  great  disadvantages,  and  in  an  expedition  which  was  almost 
wholly  military  in  its  character.  Most  of  the  new  plants  wThich 
you  found  are  only  indicated,  or,  at  most,  very  briefly  described  in 
the  following  list.  A more  full  account  of  them  will  be  given  here- 
after. 

I am,  my  dear  sir,  very  respectfully,  yours, 

JOHN  TORREY. 

To  Lieutenant  Colonel  W.  H.  Emory. 


July  22,  1847. 

My  Dear  Sir:  I give  you  the  following  written  sketch  of  the 
route,  not  being  able,  as  you  request,  to  get  a trace  made  from  my 
map. 

From  the  27th  June  to  July  11th,  we  were  traversing  the  country 
between  Fort  Leavenworth  and  the  bend  of  the  Arkansas,  a rich 
rolling  prairie  embraced  between  the  39th  and  38th  parallels  of 
latitude,  and  the  94th  and  98th  meridians  of  longitude. 

From  July  11th  to  July  13th,  followed  the  Arkansas  to  Pawnee 
fork,  in  longitude  about  99.  At  this  point  the  fertile  soil  ceases, 
except  on  the  immediate  margin  of  the  streams. 

From  the  14th  July  to  August  1st,  we  were  in  the  valley  of  the 
Arkansas,  occasionally  crossing  the  spurs  of  low  hills  which  inter- 
rupt the  direct  course  of  the  Arkansas.  This  part  lies  in  latitude 
38°,  and  between  longitude  99°  arid  103°  1'. 

From  the  1st  August  to  the  8th,  crossing  the  plain  in  a southerly 
direction  and  mounting  the  Raton  mountain,  about  7,000  feet  above 
the  sea,  between  latitudes  38  and  36. 

From  the  8th  August  to  the  14th,  in  the  valleys  of  the  tributaries 
to  the  Canadian,  and  crossing  the  extensive  plains  between  these 
valleys. 

From  the  14th  August  to  the  18th,  ascending  the  great  ridge  be- 
tween the  head  of  the  Canadian  and  the  waters  of  the  Del  Norte, 
halting  at  Santa  Fe,  in  latitude  35°  41',  on  a tributary  of  the  Del 
Norte,  about  15  miles  distant  from  the  Del  Norte,  and  about  1,500 
feet  above  that  river  and  6,850  above  the  sea. 


136 


m 

From  August  18th  up  to  the  14th  October,  all  the  collections 
were  made  in  New  Mexico,  in  the  valley  of  the  Del  Norte,  or  on 
the  table  lands  adjacent,  and  between  Santa  Fe  and  the  33d  par- 
allel of  latitude,  (230  miles  below  Santa  Fe.) 

From  the  14th  October  to  the  19th,  we  were  crossing  the  great 
dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  Del  Norte  and  the  waters 
of  the  Gila,  nearly  on  the  33d  parallel  of  north  latitude,  and  be- 
tween the  107th  and  109th  meridians  of  longitude,  measured  from 
Greenwich.  The  greatest  height  of  this  dividing  ridge  along  our 
trail  was  about  6,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

From  the  19th  of  October  to  the  22 d November,  we  were  follow- 
ing the  course  of  the  Gila  river,  occasionally  forced  into  the  moun- 
tains to  avoid  the  canons.  This  route  is  never  far  from  the  33d 
parallel  of  latitude,  and  is  embraced  between  the  109°  and  114°  30; 
meridians  of  longitude,  failing,  during  that  distance,  very  uniformly 
from  about  5,000  feet  to  near  the  level  of  the  sea. 

From  the  22d  November  to  the  24th,  we  were  on  the  Colorado  of 
the  west,  traversing  a low  sandy  bottom. 

From  the  24th  November  to  the  28th,  we  were  crossing  the  great 
desert  of  drifting  sand  in  a course  little  north  of  west. 

On  the  28th  November,  we  encamped  at  the  Cariso  (Reed)  creek, 
or  spring,  the  waters  of  which,  when  first  exposed,  are  warm,  and 
emit  the  smell  of  a sulphuretted  hydrogen. 

From  the  28th  November,  we  commenced  to  ascend  the  Cordil- 
leras of  California,  (the  continuation  of  which  forms  the  peninsula 
of  Lower  California,  and  reached  the  highest  point  of  the  route 
December  5th,  3,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  as  many  below  the 
overhanging  peaks.  From  that  point  we  descended  to  San  Diego, 
a seaport  on  the  level  of  the  sea,  in  latitude  32°  45'  and  longitude 
170°  11'  west  of  Greenwich.  This  point  we  reached  December  12. 

With  great  respect,  very  truly  yours, 

W.  H.  EMORY. 

Professor  Torrey,  Princeton. 


RANUNCULACEiE. 

Ranunculus  aquatilis,  Linn.  Plains  of  the  Arkansas. 

Clematis  Yirginiana,  Linn.  Raton  mountain.  An  undetermined 
species  of  this  genus  was  found  in  fruit,  November  10th,  on  the 
Gila.  The  plumose  tails  of  the  carpels  are  nearly  three  inches 
long. 

BERBERIDACEdE. 

Berberis  pinnata,  Lagasca.  Higlands  bordering  the  Gila.  This 
appears  to  be  a common  species  in  the  southern  part  of  Upper  Cali- 
fornia, and  in  Northern  Mexico. 

CRUCIFER/E. 

Lepidium  ruderale,  Linn.  Yalley  of  the  Arkansas. 

JErysimum  Arkansanum,  Nutt.  Tributaries  of  the  Canadian* 


137 

CAPPARIDACEiE. 


m 


Polanisia  graveolens,  Raf.  In  flower  and  fruit,  September  26 — 
October  3,  valley  of  the  Del  Norte.  The  plant  is  taller,  and  the 
flowers  are  considerably  larger  than  in  the  form  that  is  common  in 
the  northern  United  States. 

Cleome  integrifolia,  JVutt.  This  beautiful  species  is  abundant  on 
both  sides  of  the  mountains,  from  the  plains  of  Oregon,  and  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Platte,  to  latitude  33°  north. 

VIOLACEfE. 

Yiola  cucullata,  Linn.  Pawnee  fork  of  the  Arkansas. 

PORTULACACEiE. 

Portulaca  oleracea,  Linn . On  the  Arkansas.  Perhaps  intro- 
duced . 

Sesuvium  portulacastrum,  Linn.  In  flower  and  fruit,  November 
17.  Saline  soils  along  the  Gila.  Leaves  spatulate.  Flowers  nearly 
sessile,  stamens  numerous.  Styles  3. 

GERANIACEiE. 

Geranium  Fremontii,  Torr.  in  Frem.  2d  Rep.  On  the  Raton. 

ZYGOPHYLLACEJE. 

Kallstroemia  maxima,  Torr.  and  Gr.  Tribulus  maximus,  Linn . 
Tributaries  of  the  Canadian. 

Larrea  Mexicana,  Moricand^  pi.  7iov.  t.  48.  u Creosote  plant .n  Io~ 
deodondo  of  the  New  Mexicans.  Used  externally  for  rheumatism. 
A shrub  from  three  to  six  feet  high.  Abundant  from  the  upper 
wateis  of  the  Arkansas  and  valley  of  the  Del  Norte,  to  the  great 
sandy  deserts  of  California.  It  likewise  occurs  in  the  northern 
parts  of  Mexico.  The  plant  abounds  in  a strong  smelling  resinous 
matter.  No  animal  seems  to  feed  on  it,  and  it  is  useless  for  fuel, 
as  it  can  scarcely  be  made  to  burn. 

ANACARDIACEJE. 

Rhus  glabra,  Linn.  From  the^upper  part  of  the  Arkansas  to 
longitude  107°.  id 

R.  laurina,,  JVutt.  A large  shrub.  Mountains  of  California, 
towards  the  sea  coast. 

R.  trilcbata,  JVutt.  On  the  Gila.  A shrub  18  inches  high,  found 
late  in  the  autumn,  with  staminate  aments  nearly  matured  for  the 
following  spring.  The  whole  plant  is  clothed  with  a dense  velvety 
pubescence.  It  is,  perhaps,  a distinct  species  from  R.  trilohata. 

MALVACEAE. 

Malva  Munroana,  Dougl.  High  sandy  plains,  and  in  the  valley 
«of  the  Gila,  Flowers  bright  rose  color. 


138 


m 

M.  pedata,  Torr.  and  Gr.  Upper  part  of  the  Arkansas. 

Sphseralcea  stellata,  Torr.  and  Gr.  Near  Santa  Fe,  &c.  High- 
lands between  the  Del  Norte  and  the  Gila. 

Sida  coccinea,  DC.  On  the  Raton  mountain.  Several  other  un- 
determined Malvaceae  occurs  in  the  collection. 

SAPINDACEiE. 

Sapindus  marginatus,  ( soap  berry.)  Yalley  of  the  Gila. 

RHAMNACEdE. 

Ceanothus  ovalis,  .,  Torr.  and  Gr.  On  the  Arkansas.  A small 
scrubby  species  of  this  genus  was  found  on  the  Cordilleras  of  Cali- 
fornia, towards  San  Diego.  It  has  thorny  branches,  small  ovate 
coriaceous,  smooth  entire  leaves,  which  are  supported  on  short  pe- 
tioles. The  branches  are  glabrous  and  glaucous.  There  were 
neither  flowers  nor  fruit  on  the  specimen. 

C.  ovalis,  var.  intermedius,  Torr.  and  Gr.  On  the  Arkansas. 

LEGUMINOSiE. 

Sesbania  maerocarpa,  Muhl.  On  the  Gila.  In  fruit  November 

20. 

Glycyrrhiza  lepidota,  JVutt.  Near  Santa  Fe.  Not  found  in 
flower. 

Psoralea  esculenta,  Pursh.  (Pomrne  de  Prairie.)  On  the  Ar- 
kansas. 

P.  floribunda,  JVutt.  With  the  preceding. 

Amorpha  fruticosa,  Linn.  On  the  Gila.  The  specimens  were 
without  flower  and  fruit,  and  we  therefore  cannot  be  certain  of  the 
species. 

Dalea  formosa,  Torr.  in  Ann.  lyc.  JV.  York , 2 p.  178.  This 
beautiful  species  was  first  detected  by  Dr.  James,  in  Long’s  first  ex- 
pedition. It  is  a shrub  about  three  feet  high,  with  numerous 
crooked  branches,  and  purplish  flowers.  Near  Santa  Fe,  and  val- 
ley of  the  Del  Norte. 

D.  alopecuroides,  Willd.  With  the  preceding. 

D.  laxiflora,  Pursh.  Yalley  of  the  Arkansas. 

Besides  these  Dalese,  there  were  two  other  species,  both  shrubby, 
in  the  collection;  but  I have  not  ascertained  whether  they  may 
not  be  already  described.  One  of  them  is  densely  branched;  the 
leaflets  are  in  six  to  seven  pairs,  broadly  obovate  connate  about 
3 lines  long,  glabrous  above,  very  villous,  and  furnished  with 
large  dark  colored  glands  toward  the  margin  underneath;  they  are 
obscurely  toothed.  The  flowers  are  in  short  dense  spikes;  calyx 
with  plumose  subulate-setaceous  teeth,  which  are  as  long  as  the 
tube.  This  species  was  found  on  the  Gila  river.  It  is  very  near 
D,  ramosissima,  Benth.  in  Bot.  Sulph.,  p.  11.,  t.  10. 

The  other  species  is  canescently  tomentose,  and  diffusely  branched. 
The  leaflets  are  narrowly  oblong,  in  three  to  four  pairs,  which  are 
distant.  On  both  sides  they  are  sparingly  furnished  with  small  red 


139 


m 

glands,  which  are  nearly  concealed  in  the  down.  The  flowers  are 
in  short  loose,  spikes,  small,  purple.  Calyx-teeth  subulate,  shorter 
than  the  tube,  plumose.  Found  on  the  great  desert  west  of  the 
Colorado. 

Petalostemon  gracile,  j3.  oligophyllum.  Stem  erect;  leaflets  in 
2—  3,  linear,  slightly  dotted  underneath;  calyx  glabrous,  longer 
than  the  subulate  bracts,  the  teeth  very  short,  ovate;  petals  oblong. 
Yalley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

Prosopis  glandulosa,  Torr.  in  Ann , Lyc.  JY.  York , 2.  p.  192,  t.  2. 
(mezquite.)  Abundant  in  the  valleys  of  all  the  rivers,  from  Santa 
Fe,  west.  The  trunk  of  this  tree  is  sometimes  14  inches  in  diam- 
eter. The  pods  are  long,  flat,  and  filled  with  a sweetish  pulp. 
They  are  excellent  food  for  horses,  and  are  sometimes  used  by  men 
in  times  of  scarcity. 

P.  (Strombocarpa)  Emoryi,  n.  sp.  Branches  glabrous;  spines  in 
pairs,  slender,  short,  straight,  pinnae  a single  pair;  leaflets  about  4 
pairs,  oblong,  somewhat  coriaceous;  the  under  surface,  and  the 
petioles  somewhat  pubescent;  legume  spirally  twisted  into  a com- 
pact cylinder.  Found  in  fruit  only;  on  the  Gila  river.  This  spe- 
cies is  nearly  allied  to  the  P.  odorata  of  Fremont’s  2d  report,  but 
differs  in  its  shorter,  broader,  and  less  numerous  leaflets. 

Schrankia  uncinata,  Willd.  On  the  Arkansas,  where  it  is  called 
sensitive  vine . 

Darlingtonia  brachyloba,  DC,  With  the  preceding. 

Several  other  Mimosese  are  in  the  collection,  but  the  specimens 
are  mostly  without  leaves  and  flowers. 

Cassia  chamsecrista,  Linn.  On  the  Arkansas. 

ROSACEflE. 

Cerasus  ilicifolius,  JYutt.  Mountains  of  California.  The  kernel 
of  the  fruit  has  a strong  flavor  of  bitter  almonds. 

Geum  Yirginianum,  Linn.  On  the  Arkansas. 

Fallugia  paradoxa,  Endl.  gen.  6385,  Sieversia  paradoxa , Don  in 
Linn.)  trans , 14,  p.  576,  t.  22.  A remarkable  rosaceous  shrub,  with 
white  flowers,  and  very  long  slender  plumose  tails  to  the  carpels. 
It  differs,  in  some  respects,  from  Endlicher’s  character  of  the  genus, 
but  I have  not  had  an  opportunity  of  comparing  it  with  Don’s  de- 
scription and  figure.  It  was  found  in  various  parts  of  the  valley 
of  the  Del  Norte.  Can  it  be  Geum  dryadoides , DC.? 

Cercocarpus  parvifolius,  JYutt , Torr,  and  Gr.,  ji.  2,  p.  427.  A 
shrub  about  12  feet  high,  with  numerous  straight  branches  spring- 
ing from  near  the  ground.  The  carpels,  with  their  long  plumose 
spirally  contorted  awns,  bore  into  the  earth,  after  they  have  fallen. 
The  action  of  the  wind  communicates  to  them  a twisting  motion, 
and  retrorse  pubescence  retains  them  in  the  soil. 

Spiraea  Californica,  n.  sp.  Shrubby;  leaves  ovate,  lanceolate, 
undivided,  nearly  glabrous,  glandularly  serrate,  conspicuously  pe- 
tiolate;  flowers  in  compound  corymbs,  perfect,  calyx-segments 
broad,  about  as  long  as  the  tube;  disk  coherent  with  the  tube  of 
the  calyx;  stamens  numerous;  carpels  5,  distinct,  2-valved;  seeds* 


140 


m 

2,  ascending,  the  tesla  expanded  at  the  superior  extremity  into 
membranaceous  wing.  Grows  on  high  mountains  near  the  Gila 
This  species  is  remarkable  for  its  ascending  winged  seeds  and  co 
viaceous  leaves.  It  can  scarcely  be  referred  to  any  of  the  section 
into  which  the  genus  Spiraea  is  at  present  divided. 

Andenostoma  fasciculata,  Hook  and  Am.  Abundant  in  the  Cor 
dilleras  of  California.  A shrub  about  five  feet  high. 

A.  sparsifolia,  n.  sp.  Leaves  scattered,  linear-subulate,  dottet 
with  glands.  Cordilleras  of  California.  A tree  30  feet  high,  will 
Yery  numerous  slender  branches.  Leaves  nearly  half  an  inch  long 
scarcely  half  a line  wide,  somewhat  triangular,  apparently  ever- 
green. Flowers  in  small  terminal  paniculate  spikes.  Pediceh 
short,  with  numerous  minute  scarious  bracts  at  the  base.  Calyx 
turbinate-campanulate,  10-striate,  5-toothed;  the  teeth  ovate,  ob- 
tuse, conspicuously  imbricated.  Stamens  about  10;  the  filaments, 
inserted  into  a crenulate  glandular  ring  at  the  summit  of  the  calyx- 
tube.  Ovary  obovate,  compressed,  with  2 collateral  suspended 
ovules.  Very  different  in  appearance  from  A.  fasciculata,  and  des- 
titute of  the  fleshy  glands,  with  which  the  throat  of  the  calyx-tube 
is  furnished  in  that  species. 

Photinia  arbutifolia,  Linn.  Cordilleras  of  California.  A shrub 
4 5 feet  high. 

LYTHRACEiE. 

Lythrum  alatum,  Pursh.  On  the  Arkansas. 

ONAGRACEiE. 

Zauschneria  Californica,  Presl.  Valley  of  the  Gila.  A shrub 
with  bright  crimson  flowers,  resembling  those  of  a Fuchsia. 

(Enothera  albicaulis,  JYutt.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

(E.  pinnatifiua,  JYutt.  Tributaries  of  the  Canadian  river. 

CE.  biennis,  Linn.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

Several  other  undetermined  species  of  (Enothera  exist  in  the  col- 
lection. 

Gaura  coccinea,  JYutt.  Tributaries  of  the  Canadian. 

G.  parviflora,  Dougl.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

LOASACFAE. 

i 

Mentzelia  pumila,  JYutt.  Stem  whitish,  slender,  branching,  and 
a little  roughened  above,  smoothish  and  somewhat  shining  below; 
leaves  pinnatifid,  or  sinuate-toothed;  flowers  (small)  2-3  together, 
pedicellate;  petals  10,  lanceolate;  stamens  very  numerous;  the 
outer  filaments  dilated ; capsule  turbinate-cylindrical;  seeds  nume- 
rous, winged.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte.  Plant  about  a foot  high. 
FIowrers  less  than  an  inch  in  diameter.  Capsule  three-fourths  of  I 
an  inch  long,  3-valved  at  the  summit. 

Cevallia  sinuata,  Lagasca.  This  interesting  plant,  which  has 
been  admirably  illustrated  by  Fenzl,  occurs  in  many  parts  of  the 
Talley  of  the  Del  Norte,  from  Santa  Fe  to  Saltillo. 


141 


[7] 


CUCURBITACEjE. 

Cucumis  perennis,  James , Torr.  and  Gr.  On  the  Gila  river, 
abundant.  We  are  yet  uncertain  of  the  genus  of  this  plant,  which 
seems  to  be  common  in  various  parts  of  Mexico,  particularly  in  arid, 
sandy  wastes.  No  specimens  of  the  fruit  have  yet  been  sent  to  us. 
There  are  three  other  undetermined  Cucurbitacese  in  the  collection, 
distinct  from  any  described  in  the  Flora  of  North  America. 

CACTACErE. 

Several  interesting  plants  of  this  family  were  noticed  by  Colonel 
Emory,  but  they  cannot  be  satisfactorily  described  from  dried 
specimens.  Tney  are  probably  included  among  the  numerous  new 
species  of  Mexican  Cactacese  soon  to  be  described  by  Dr.  Engle- 
mann. 

CORNACEiE. 

Cornus  paniculata,  V Her.  On  the  Arkansas. 

CAPRIFOLIACEiE. 

Symphoricarpus  racemosus,  Linn.  (Snow  berry.)  On  the  Ar- 
kansas. 

COMPOSITAE. 

Yernonia  fasciculata,  Michx.  Bent’s  Fort. 

Liatris  punctata,  Hook . Rayada  Creek. 

Corethrogyne  tomentella,  Torr.  and  Gr.  fl.  JV.  Am.  2,  p.  99. 
Very  abundant  on  the  Cordilleras  of  the  Pacific,  and  called  by  the 
natives  estafiat.  It  is  a celebrated  remedy  for  cholera,  as  noticed 
by  Colonel  Emory  in  his  report. 

Dieteria  incana,  Torr.  and  Gr .?  Diplopappus  incanus , LindlA 
On  the  Gila.  Differs  from  Douglas’s  Californian  plant  in  its  slen- 
der stem,  and  nearly  glabrous,  spinulose  dentate  leaves. 

D.  coronopifolia,  Nutt.  Yalley  of  the  Del  Norte,  and  the  head 
waters  of  the  Canadian. 

D.  asteroides,  n.  sp.  Minutely  scabrous,  pubescent,  stem  panicu- 
lately  branched  above;  leaves  oblong-cuneate,  somewhat  rigid, 
sharply  and  rather  coarsely  toothed,  involucre  hemispherical; 
scales  linear,  in  several  series,  with  rather  short  herbaceous  squar- 
rose  tips;  rays  30  or  more,  violet;  achenia  sparingly  pubescent. 
Pappus  of  the  ray  much  shorter  than  that  of  the  disk.  Elevated 
land  between  the  Del  Norte  and  the  waters  of  the  Gila.  A well 
marked  species,  with  leaves  broader  than  in  any  other  plant  of  the 
genus. 

Aster  hebecladus,  DC.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte,  and  desert  be- 
tween the  Colorado,  and  Cordilleras  of  California. 

A.  (Tripolium.)  A branching  species,  with  the  stems  pubescent 


142 


m 

above,  and  middle  sized  flowers  with  purple  rays.  It  seems  to  be- 
undescribed.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

Solidago  elongata,  Nutt.  Valley  of  the  Gila. 

Linosyris  graveolens,  Torr.  and  Gr.  Chrysocoma  dracunculoi- 
des , Purs/i.  A shrub  about  two  feet  high,  and  bright  yellow  heads 
of  flowers.  Abundant  on  the  highlands  between  the  Del  Norte 
and  the  Gila, 

Aplopappus  spinulosus,  DC.  On  Ocate  creek,  &c.,  called  Pinettz 
by  the  natives. 

f A.  Menziesii,  Torr.  and  Gr.  p.  dentatus:  leaves  coriaceous, 
strongly  dentate  or  pinnatifid,  toothed,  glutinous.  Abundant  in  the 
great  desert  between  the  Colorado  and  the  Cordilleras  of  Califor- 
nia. Another  form  of  this  species  was  found  near  St.  Diego,  wTith 
the  stem  and  the  leaves  clothed  with  a copious  loose  pubescence, 
and  the  serratures  of  the  leaves  few  and  small. 

Grindelia.  An  apparently  new  species  of  this  genus  was  found 
in  ascending  the  Cordilleras  of  California,  but  the  flowers  had  1 
fallen  from  the  heads,  and  our  specimen  is  therefore  scarcely  suffi- 
cient for  determination.  The  stem  is  very  smooth  and  whitish;  the 
leaves  are  oblong,  clasping  at  the  base,  spinulose,  serrate  and  glab- 
rous, and  the  scales  of  the  involucre  are  very  acute,  but  scarcely 
recurved. 

Chrysopsis  canescens,  Torr.  and  Gr.  Near  Ocate  creek. 

C.  echioid.es,  Benth.  in  Bot.  Sulph.  p.  25.  Valley  of  the  Gila. 

Perityle,  Benth.  in  Bot . Sulph.  A new  species  of  this  genus 
(P.  Emoryi , nob.)  was  found  in  ascending  the  Cordilleras  of  Cali- 
fornia. It  differs  from  P.  California  of  Bentham  in  its  smaller 
and  much  more  deeply  lobed  leaves,  narrower  achenia,  which  are 
very  hairy  on  the  margins,  and  in  other  characters. 

Baccharis  Douglasii,  DC.  Valley  of  the  Gila.  Besides  this* 
there  are  three  other  species  of  Baccharis  in  the  collection,  none 
of  which  are  described  in  the  Flora  of  North  America,  but  we  can- 
not yet  pronounce  them  new. 

Tessaria  borealis,  DC.  An  aromatic  shrub  about  three  feet  high, 
growing  in  all  the  deserted  beds  of  the  Gila,  and  in  the  valley  of 
the  Del  Norte;  usually  with  the  Fremontia,  both  of  which  are 
abundant  in  those  regions. 

Hymenoclea,  Torr.  and  Gr.  ined.  This  remarkable  new  genus  is 
allied  to  Ambrosia  and  Xanthium.  Another  species  of  it  ( H . Sal- 
sola)  was  found  in  Fremont’s  second  expedition,  which,  with  the 
characters  of  the  genus  to  which  it  belongs,  will  be  published  in 
another  work.  This  species,  from  the  scales  of  the  involucre  being 
in  a single  whorl,  we  propose  to  call  H.  monogyra Torr.  and  Gr » 

It  was  found  in  various  parts  of  the  valley  of  the  Gila. 

Franseria  Hookeriana.  Nutt.  (Yerba  del  Sapo.) 

Ambrosia  acanthocarpa,  Hooker.  Very  abundant  from  Santa  Fe 
to  the  33d  parallel  of  latitude. 

Another  species  of  this  genus,  and  apparently  an  undescribed 
one,  exists  in  the  collection.  It  is  suffrutescent  hoary,  with  the 
leaves  bipinnatifidly,  divided  into  very  small  obtuse  segments.  The 
flowers  are  wanting. 


143 


[7] 


Ambrosia  artemisisefolia,  Linn.  Bank  of  the  Gila. 

Dxcoris,  Torr.  and  Gr.  Another  new  genus  allied  to.Iva,  of 
■which  a full  description  and  figure  will  hereafter  be  given.  It  was 
found  in  the  valley  of  the  Gila,  and  in  the  desert  of  drifting  sands 
west  of  the  Colorado.  (5  to  6 inches  long,  and  4 to  5 wide.) 

Wyethia  ovata,  n.  sp .,  Torr.  and  Gr.,  ined.  Stem  very  stout, 
leaves  orbicular,  ovate,  entire;  somewhat  coriaceous,  pubescent, 
(as  are  also  the  petioles  and  branches);  scales  of  the  involucre  lan- 
ceolate; pappus  of  3 to  4 acute  rigid  teeth,  one  of  which  is  longer 
than  the  others.  Abundant  on  the  western  side  of  the  Cordilleras 
of  California. 

Silphium  laciniatum,  Linn.  (Pilot  weed.)  On  the  Arkansas  and 
its  tributaries. 

Another  Silphium,  with  large  ovate  undivided  leaves,  was  found 
on  Cariso  creek. 

Englemannia  pinnatifida,  Torr.  and  Gr.  ft.  JV.  Am.  2,  p.  283. 
Tributaries  of  the  Canadian. 

Lepachys  columnaris,  Torr.  and  Gr.  Rudbeckia  columnaris , 
Fursh.  The  rays  vary  from  being  wholly  yellow  to  entirely  pur- 
plish  brown.  From  the  head  waters  of  the  Canadian  to  Santa  Fe. 

Encelia  farinosa,  Gray  ined.  An  aromatic  shrubby  plant;  exu- 
ding a yellowish  resin  from  the  branches.  The  leaves  are  ovate, 
sofly  pubescent,  and  hoary  on  both  sides,  with  3 to  5 prominent 
reticulated  nerves  underneath. 

Helianthus  petiolaris,  JVutt . Upper  part  of  the  Arkansas,  and 
valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

H.  1 enticularis,  Dougl.  With  the  preceding. 

Coreopsis  palmata,  JVutt.  Turkey  creek. 

Simsia.  A rayless,  and  probably  new  species  of  this  genus^,  was 
found  in  the  bed  of  the  Agua  Caliente,  November  28th.  It  is  a 
branching  shrub,  and  the  slender  bark  of  the  irregular  twigs  is  cov- 
ered with  a whitish,  very  scabrous  pubescence.  The  leaves  are 
scarcely  an  inch  long,  ovate,  entire,  obtuse,  with  short  petioles, 
and  scabrous  on  both  sides.  Chaff  of  the  receptacle  embracing 
the  obovate  achenium,  the  margin  of  which  is  furnished  with  long 
silky  hairs. 

Wulfia.'?  Specimens  of  a plant  with  the  floral  characters  of  this 
genus,  but  with  different  foliage,  were  found  in  abundance  on  the 
higher  grounds  bordering  the  valley  of  the  Gila.  It  also  resembles 
Leighia,  but  is  destitute  of  a pappus.  Some  of  the  genera,  to 
which  the  plant  is  allied,  will  need  revision  before  its  place  can  be 
satisfactorily  determined. 

Ximenesia,  n.  spA  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte,  and  along  the  Gila, 
September  and  October.  This  needs  comparison  with  some  of  the 
Mexican  species.  It  very  nearly  resembles  X.  encelioides , Cavan. 

Riddellia  tagetina,  JVutt.  Torr.  and  Gr.fi. , JV.  Amer.  2p.  362® 
Valley  of  the  Del  Norte,  about  two  hundred  miles  below  Santa  Fe. 
A beautiful  plant  with  persistent  flowers,  first  detected  by  Mr.  Nutt- 
all  towards  the  sources  of  the  Platte. 

Baileya,  n.  gen.  Harv.  and  Gr.,  ined.  Two  other  species  of 
this  unpublished  genus,  dedicated  to  that  profound  observer  of  na~ 


144 


m 

ture,  Professor  Bailey  of  West  Point,  exist  among  the  California 
plants  collected  by  Coulter,  and  will  soon  be  described  by  Mr. 
Harvey  and  Dr.  Gray.  This  is  distinguished  from  the  others  by  its 
numerous  ray-flowers,  and  is  the  B.  multiradiata , Harv.  and  Gr . 
The  whole  plant  is  clothed  with  a woolly  pubescence,  and  varies 
from  a few  inches  to  a foot  or  more  in  height.  The  leaves  are 
somewhat  pinnatately  cut  into  several  narrow  segments.  The  heads 
are. on  long  naked  peduncles,  and  when  the  rays  are  fully  expanded 
are  more  than  an  inch  and  a half  in  diameter.  The  rays  are  40  or 
50  in  number,  in  two  or  more  series,  obovate  cuneate,  of  a bright 
orange  yellow,  and  7-nerved,  carolla  of  the  disk,  flowers  with  five 
short  segments  which  are  glandulary  pubescent,  with  intra-margi- 
nal nerves.  Branches  of  the  style  short,  somewhat  dilated  and 
truncate  at  the  extremity.  Yery  abundant  along  the  Del  Norte 
and  in  the  dividing  region  between  the  waters  of  the  Del  Norte 
and  those  of  the  Gila.  Flowers  from  October  4th  to  November. 

Zinnia  grandiflora.  JYutt.  in  Amer.  Phil,  trans.  ( n . ser.)  7,  p. 
348;  Torr.  and  Gray  ft.  JY.  Amer.  2,  p.  298.  Yalley  of  the  Del 
Norte.  This  plant,  which  was  first  detected  by  Dr.  James  in  Long’s 
first  expedition,  is  certainly  frubescent  at  the  base;  in  which  re- 
spect it  resembles  the  nearly  allied  Z.  linearis , Benth.  plant  Hartw.y 
JYo.  47.  This  is  the  most  humble  species  of  the  genus;  being  not 
more  than  six  inches  high.  The  stem  is  branching  and  rigid.  The 
leaves  are  linear,  sessile,  and  somewhat  connate  at  the  base, 
strongly  3-nerved,and  glandularly  punctate.  Heads  mostly  solitary 
at  the  summit  of  the  branches,  on  short  peduncles.  Involucre 
ovoid-cylindrical;  the  scales  about  8,  closely  imbricated;  outer  ones 
somewhat  orbicular;  the  inner  oblong,  ciliate,  and  somewhat  scari- 
ous  on  the  margin.  Ray  flowers  3-5,  coriaceous  and-  persistent, 
roundish-ovate,  emarginate,  continuous  with  the  summit  of  the 
achenium.  Disk  flowers  few.  Lobes  of  the  corolla  villous.  An- 
thers yellows.  Branches  of  the  style  tapering  into  a subulate-lanceo- 
late point,  hairy  above  the  middle.  Achenia  obcompressed,  scarcely 
winged,  scabrous;  the  outer  integument  thin;  those  of  the  ray 
naked,  of  the  disk  with  a single  awn. 

Gaillardia  amblyodon,  Gay.  On  the  upper  part  of  the  Arkansas. 
This  species  has  been  beautifully  figured  by  Dr.  Gray  in  Mem . 
Amer . acad.  ( n . ser.)  t.  4. 

G.  pulchella,  Foug.  Yalley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

Palafoxia  linearis,  Lag.  New  Mexico. 

Hymenoxys  odorata,  DC.  Great  desert  west  of  the  Colorado. 

Artemisia  filifolia,  Torr.  in  Ann.  lyc.  JY.  York , 2 p.  211.  Yal- 
ley of  the  Del  Norte,  and  along  the  Gila;  abundant. 

A . dracunculoides,  Pursh.  Table  lands  of  the  Del  Norte  and 
Gila.  A very  common  species  of  wormwood,  often  called  sage  by 
the  hunters. 

A.  cana,  Pursh.  On  the  Raton  Mountains. 

Senecio  longilobus.  Benth.  in  pi.  Hartweg.  A bushy  species 
about  three  feet  high,  growing  abundantly  in  the  region  between 
the  waters  of  the  Del  Norte  and  the  Gila. 

Tetradymia,  (sub-genus  Polydymia.)  Heads  about  16-flowered; 


145 


m 

the  flowers  all  tubular  and  perfect.  Involucre  of  15  to  16  oblong  ob- 
tuse coriaceo-chartaceous  scales  which  are  slightly  concave  but  not 
carinate.  Receptacle  naked.  Corolla  with  rather  slender  tube; 
the  lobes  short,  ovate,  erect,  furnished  with  long  villous  hairs  ex- 
ternally. Anthers  included.  Branches  of  the  style  tipped  with  a 
very  short  obtuse  pubescent  cone.  Achenia  oblong-turbinate,  vil- 
lous with  short  hairs.  Pappus  of  numerous,  somewhat  rigid,  den- 
ticulate bristles.  A suffrutescent  prostrate  much  branched  plant, 
canescently  and  densely  tomentose ; the  leaves  broadly  obovate, 
toothed,  narrowed  into  a petiole.  Heads  on  short  peduncles,  ter- 
minating the  somewhat  corymbose  branches. 

T.  (Polydymia)  ramosissima,  n . sp.  Hills  bordering  the  Gila, 
Stem  spreading^  with  very  numerous  matted  branches.  Leaves 
about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  length,  the  lamina  broader  than 
long,  with  5-7  indistinct  rounded  teeth,  abruptly  narrowed  into  a 
longish  petiole.  Heads  about  one-third  of  an  inch  in  diameter, 
ovate.  Involucral  scales  in  several  series,  the  exterior  ones 
shorter  than  the  interior.  Hairs  of  the  achenium  smooth,  slightly 
bifid  at  the  summit.  Pappus  longer  than  the  achenium.  This  plant 
is  clearly  allied  to  Tetradymia,  but  differs  in  the  many-flowered 
heads,  numerous  scales  of  the  involucre,  slightly  cleft  corolla- 
tube,  and  in  several  other  characters;  so  that  it  should  perhaps 
form  the  type  of  a distinct  genus. 

Cirsium  undulatum,  Spreng.  The  locality  of  this  plant  is  not 
recorded,  but  it  was  probably  found  on  the  upper  part  of  the 
Arkansas. 

S#tephanomeria  paniculata,  Nutt.  Ascending  the  Cordilleras  of 
California. 

Mulgedium  pulchellum,  Nutt.  Pawnee  Fork  of  the  Arkansas, 

ERICACEAE. 

Arctostaphvlos  pungens,  Kunth.l  Valley  of  the  Gila  and  San 
Diego.  Flowers  in  January. 

A.  tomentosa,  Dougl.  ? A shrub  4 to  5 feet  high.  Cordilleras 
of  California.  This  may  be  a smooth  variety  of  Douglas’s  plant. 
The  leaves  are  orbicular-ovate,  obtuse  or  truncate  at  the  base, 
glabrous  on  both  sides,  with  the  petiole  one-third  the  length  of  the 
lamina.  It  was  not  found  in  flower. 

PLANTAGINACEJE, 

Plantago,  n.  sp.l  Allied  to  P.  gnaphaloide$}  Nutt . Great 
desert  west  of  the  Colorado,  near  the  Cordilleras  of  California. 
The  whole  plant  is  clothed  with  a loose  white  tomentum,  which  is 
partly  deciduous  with  age.  The  leaves  are  linear-lanceolate,  en- 
tire, and  taper  to  a long  narrow  base.  The  peduncles  are  5 to  6 
inches  long,  and  bear  a close  cylindrical  spike,  which  is  less  than 
an  inch  in  length.  Sepals  ovate,  membranaceous,  marked  with  & 
strong  mid-rib,  which  is  villous  externally.  Segments  of  the  co- 
rolla ovate.  Capsule  2 seeded, 

10 


m 


146 


PEDALIACEjE. 

Martynia  proboscidea,  Linn.?  Abundant  in  the  valley  of  the 
Del  Norte.  We  have  only  the  leaves,  and  a drawing  of  the  fruit. 

It  is  possibly  M.  althecefolia , Benth.  in  hot.  Sulph. 

SCROPHULARIACEyE. 

Maurandia  antirrhina,  Lindl.  On  the  San  Francisco,  a tributary 
of  the  Gila.  A slender  trailing  plant,  with  beautiful  purplish 
flowers. 

Castilleja  linearifolia,  Benth.  Valley  of  the  Gila,  and  the  re- 
gion between  that  river  and  the  waters  of  the  Gila. 

Penstemon  Torreyi,  Benth.  Region  between  the  Del  Norte  and 
the  Gila. 

Three  or  four  other  species  of  Penstemon  exist  in  the  collection, 
but  the  specimens  are  incomplete,  and  have  not  yet  been  studied. 

VERBENACEyE. 

Verbena  bipinnatifida,  JVutt.  Valley  of  the  Dei  Norte. 

Lippia  cuneifolia,  Steud.  Verbena  cuneifolia,  Torr.  in  Long’s 
Rocky  Mountain  plants.  Upper  part  of  the  Arkansas,  and  along 
the  tributaries  of  the  Canadian. 

LABIATE. 

* 

• 

Salvia  carduacea,  Benth.  Western  slope  of  the  Cordilleras  of 
California. 

Another  species  of  this  genus  was  found  with  the  preceding,  but 
not  in  flower.  It  is  entirely  clothed  with  dense  soft  canescent  pu- 
bescence. It  is  shrubby,  with  long  stout  branches  springing  from 
near  the  root.  The  leaves  are  oblong,  coriaceous,  entire,  and  two 
inches  or  more  in  length. 

Several  other  undetermined  Labiatee  were  found  in  the  valley  of 
the  Del  Norte  and  on  the  Gila. 

BORAGINACEyE. 

Myosotis  glomerata,  JVutt.  Tributaries  of  the  Canadian. 

Euploc^  grandiflora,  n.  sp.  Hirsute  with  rough  oppressed  hairs. 
Leaves  oblong-lanceolate,  on  short  petioles.  Flowers  in  leafy  clus- 
ters. Calyx  five-parted  to  the  base,  with  linear-lanceolate  segments. 
Corolla  white;  (the  expanded  limb  nearly  three-fourths  of  an  inch 
in  diameter,)  obscurely  5-lobed,  plaited;  tube  slender,  somewhat 
ventricose  below  the  middle;  the  throat  naked.  Stamens  inserted 
towards  the  base  of  the  corolla- tube;  the  filaments  short;  anthers 
oblong-linear.  Ovary  4-celled,  style  filiform,  persistent,  arising 
from  the  summit  of  the  ovary;  stigma  capitate,  with  a tuft  of  stiff 
hairs  at  the  extremity.  Fruit  4 celled,  2-lobed,  finally  separating 
into  indehiscent  carpels;  embryo  curved,  terete,  surrounded  with 
very  thin  albumen;  radicle  superior.  On  the  Del  Norte  below 


147  [ 7 } 

Santa  Fe.  This  plant  is  clearly  a congener  of  Euploca  convolvula- 
cea  of  Nuttall.  It  is  nearly  related  to  Tournefortia. 

HYDROLEACEiE. 

Eriodictyob,  Benth.  in  hot  Sulph..  p.  35.  Chois,  in  DC , prod. 
10,  p.  183.  A well  characterized  Californian  genus,  containing 
three  described  species,  one  of  which,  the  Wigandia  Calif ornicaf 
Hook,  and  Am , was  found  in  rocky  places  near  the  mouth  of 
San  Carlos,  on  the  Gila,  and  on  the  Cordilleras  of  California.  The 
leaves  are  coriaceous,  varying  in  form  from  narrowly  linear  to  lan- 
ceolate, and  from  being  perfectly  entire  to  strongly  dentate.  The 
Upper  surface  (as  well  as  the  branches,)  is  covered  with  a copious 
adhesive  varnish,  while  the  under-side  is  whitish  tomentose,  with 
strongly  marked  reticulated  veins. 

POLEMONIACEiE. 

Phlox,  n.  sp.  This  likewise  occurs  in  Texas,  and  will  be  de- 
scribed by  Dr.  Gray.  It  was  found  in  various  places  on  the  tribu- 
taries of  the  Canadian. 

Gilia  pulchella,  Dougl.  Ocate  creek,  and  other  tributaries  of 
the  Canadian. 

G.  longifolia,  Benth.  Ipomcea  longifolia,  Torr.  in  Long’s  Rocky 
mountain  plants.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

Fouquiera  spinosa.  ( Bronnia  spinosa , Kunth.  nov.  gen.  6,  p. 
84  *t.  528.)  Benth.  in  hot.  Sulph.  p.  16.  Ascending  the  Cordilleras 
of  California.  A highly  ornamental  shrub,  shooting  up  long 
smooth  simple  stems,  to  the  height  of  from  12  to  25  feet,  with  a 
panicle  of  scarlet  flowers  at  the  summit.  It  differs  slightly  from 
the  figure  and  description  of  Kunth,  but  seems  to  be  the  same  plant. 
The  leaves  afe  obovate-oblong,  glabrous  and  membranaceous,  grow- 
in  fascicles  in  the  axils  of  the  spines.  The  spines  are  from  a half 
an  inch  to  near  an  inch  in  length,  slender,  more  or  less  spreading, 
or  even  somewhat  recurved.  At  the  base  of  each  is  a longitudinal 
protuberance  which  extends  along  the  stem  until  it  reaches  the  spine, 
which  is  on  a line  with  it  below.  The  panicle  is  usually  contracted 
and  elongated,  but  sometimes  short,  and  almost  corymbose.  The 
flowers  are  on  short  pedicels  which  are  furnished  with  deciduous 
bracts.  Sepals  5,  nearly  orbicular,  concave,  strongly  imbricated, 
persistent,  about  one-fourth  the  length  of  the  corolla.  Corolla 
about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long;  the  tube  cylindrical,  and  often 
curved;  limb  5-cleft,  with  ovate  rather  acute  segments.  Stamens 
13  to  16  exserted,  hypogynous;  the  filaments  thickened  and  some- 
what coherent  at  the  base;  anthers  linear-oblong,  mucronate. 
Ovary  3-celled,  with  about  6 ascending  anatropous  ovules  in  each 
cell;  style  3-parted  below  the  middle.  Capsule  oblong,  acute, 
obtuse,  triangular,  coriaceous  and  glabrous,  3-valved,  loculicidal, 
straight,  or  little  curved,  one-celled  by  the  separation  of  the  valves 
from  the  triangular  axis.  Seeds  3 to  6,  white,  ovate,  peltate,  much 
compressed,  with  a broad  winged  margin,  whieh  is  an  expansion  of 
the  testa,  and  which  finally  is  resolved  into  numerous  fine  hairs* 


148 


Tffiese  are  beautiful  objects  under  the  microscope.  They  are  spiral 
vessels  consisting  of  an  extremely  delicate  sheath,  containing  the 
loosely  coiled  thread  which  frequently  ramifies  with  anastomosing 
branches.  The  whole  testa  is  formed  of  these  singular  vessels. 
Embryo  nearly  as  large  as  the  seed;  cotyledons  foliaceous;  radicle 
pointing  downward.  There  can  be  little  doubt  of  the  propriety  of 
uniting  Bronnia  and  Fouquiera.  Each  genus  was  founded  on  a 
single  species,  and  both  plants  seem  to  be  very  littie  known  to  Eu- 
ropean botanists.  Of  the  former  the  flowers  are  imperfectly  de- 
scribed, and  of  the  latter,  the  fruit  is  unknown.  Our  plant  partakes 
of  the  characters  of  both  genera.  In  the  ovary  the  placentae  meet 
in  the  axis,  but  only  slightly  cohere;  finally  they  unite,  but  in 
fruit  the  valves  of  the  capsule  separate  from  the  axis,  to  which  the  ' 
seeds  remain  attached.  As  to  the  affinities  of  Fouquiera,  I am  in- 
clined to  adopt  the  opinion  of  Lindley,  that  it  is  very  near  Pole- 
moniaceae,  and  particularly  to  Cantua.  It  differs,  however,  in  its 
distinct  imbricated  sepals,  (which  are  exactly  those  of  convolvu- 
lus,) more  numerous  and  hypogynous  stamens;  and  very  sparing 
albumen,  as  well  as  in  habit.  It  is  certainly  very  unlike  Franke- 
niacese,  to  which  it  is  appended  by  Endlicher.  Kunth  placed  it 
among  genera  allied  to  Portulacaceae. 

CONVOLVULACEJE. 

Ipomcea  leptophylla,  Torr.  in  From.  1st  report , p.  94.  Upper 
part  of  the  Arkansas  and  head  waters  of  the  Canadian.  The  stems 
are  often  erect,  about  two  feet  high,  and  of  a bushy 'appearance. 
From  the  appearance  of  the  specimens,  I should  suppose  the  plant 
were  a perennial,  but  according  to  Dr.  James  it  is  an  annual. 

One  or  two  other  Convolvulace®  were  in  the  collection,  but  I 
have  not  determined  them  to  my  satisfaction. 

' SOLANACEiE. 

Nycterium  lobatum.  Between  Fort  Leavenworth  and  the  head 
of  the  Arkansas. 

Datura  Metel,  Willdl  Valley  of  the  Gila.  It  grows  from  four 
to  five  feet  high,  with  spreading  branches.  Perhaps  introduced. 

Solanum  triflorum,  Nutt . Upper  part  of  the  Arkansas,  and  on 
the  tributaries  of  the  Arkansas. 

Another  species  of  Solanum  was  found  on  the  Del  Norte  below 
Santa  Fe.  The  whole  plant  is  clothed  with  a dense  yellowish 
white  pubescence.  The  stems  are  rough,  with  minute  slender 
prickles.  Leaves  linear- oblong,  entire,  rather  obtuse,  prickly 
along  the  midrib.  Flowers,  two  or  three  together  at  the  summit 
of  the  branches,  white?  stamens  5;  anthers  equal. 

GENTIANACEiE. 

Eustoma  Russelianum,  Don . Near  the  bank  of  the  San  Pedro.. 
A showy  plant.  * 

Erythraea  Beyrichii,  Torr.  and  Gr.  E.  tricantha  j3.  Griseb.  Val- 
ley of  the  Del  Norte,  and  along  the  Gila. 


149 


GLEACEjE. 

Fraxinus  velutina,  n.  sp.  Branches,  petioles,  and  under  surface 
of  the  leaves,  clothed  with  a dense  soft  pubescence.  Leaflets  3 to 
5,  rhombic-ovate,  cuneate  at  the  base,  coarsely  serrate  or  toothed,, 
sparingly  pubescent  above.  Fruit  narrowly  oblanceolate,  nearly 
entire  at  the  apex,  about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long.  A.  small 
tree,  usually  from  15  to  20  feet  high.  Grows  in  the  region  between 
the  waters  of  the  Del  Norte  and  the  Gila;  also  on  the  Mimbres,  a 
tributary  of  the  latter  river. 

NYCTAGINACEiE 

Abronia  mellifera,  Hook.  Yalley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

A.  ( Tripterocalyx ) micranthum,  Torr . in  From.  1st  report , p„  96. 
Yalley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

This  differs  in  some  respects  from  Fremont’s  plant.  The  pedun- 
cles are  elongated,  and  the  fruit  is  more  than  an  inch  long,  with 
very  broad  wings.  The  structure  of  the  seed  is  precisely  the  same 
as  in  that  plant,  the  inner  cotyledon  of  the  conduplicate  embryo 
Being  abortive.  It  is  wanting  also  in  A.  mellifera.  In  several 
species  of  this  genus,  if  not  in  all  of  them,  the  filaments  adhere 
throughout  nearly  their  whole  length  to  the  tube  of  the  perianth. 
The  lobes  of  the  perianth  are  dilated,  and  deeply  emarginate,  but 
appear  ovate  in  the  bud,  from  the  lobules  being  conduplicate. 

CHENOPODIACEiE. 

Sarcobatus  vermiculatus.  S.  Maximil i oni , JVees  in  Prince  Maxim . 
irav .,  Engl,  ed.,  p.  518.  Fremontia  vermicularis , Torr . in  Frem. 
1st  report , p.  96;  and2d  report , p.  317.  Batis  vermicularis,  Kooky 
jl.  Bor.  Am.  2,  p.  188.  Abundant  on  the  Del  Norte,  and  upper 
part  of  the  valley  of  the  Gila. 

This  is  the  pulpy  thorn  of  Lewis  and  Clark.  It  has  a very  ex- 
tensive range  in  the  desert  regions  on  both  sides  of  the  mountains. 
Since  my  notices  of  this  plant  were  published  in  Fremont’s  reports,, 
I have  ascertained  that  Nees’  description  of  his  genus  Sareobatus,, 
dates  a little  anterior  to  mine,  so  that  his  name  must  be  adopted. 

Obione  argentea,  Moq.  Atriplex  argentea , JVutt.  Abundant  in 
sandy  saline  places  on  the  Del  Norte. 

O.  polycarpa,  n.  sp.  Yalley  of  the  Gila. 

Eurotia  lanata,  Moq.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte.  A shrubby  Sa- 
licornia,  an  Atriplex,  and  a species  of  Sueda,  were  found  in  saline 
soils  along  the  Gila. 

AMARANTHACEiE. 

Amaranthus  hybridus,  Var.?  Glabrous;  stem  and  leaves  nearly 
smooth,  flowers  (purplish)  crowded  in  a dense  compound  terminal 
spike;  bracts  somewhat  awned,  shorter  than  the  flowers;  utricle 
opening  transversely.  On  the  Del  Norte,  below  Santa  Fe. 


150 


POLYGONACEjE. 


Eriogonum  trichopes,  n.  sp.  Stem  scape-like,  verticillately  and 
divaricately  much  branched,  glabrous;  peduncles  capillary;  invo- 
lucre minute,  few-flowered,  glabrous,  4-toothed;  the  teeth  nearly 
equal,  obtuse,  erect;  sepals  ovate,  acute,  nearly  equal,  very  hairy. 
Eastern  slope  of  the  Cordilleras  of  California.  Our  specimens  of 
this  remarkable  species  are  imperfect,  the  leaves  being  wanting. 
They  probably  grow  in  a radical  cluster.  The  flowering  stems  are 
a foot  or  more  high,  with  the  primary  and  secondary  branches  ver- 
ticillate;  the  branchlets  are  bi-trichotomous,  and  the  ultimate  divi- 
sions or  peduncles  somewhat  secund.  Involucre  scarcely  half  a 
line  in  length,  5 — 6-flowered,  and  only  4-toothed.  The  flowers 
are  nearly  twice  as  large  as  the  involucres,  sepals  concave,  erect — ■ 
spreading.  Stamens  scarcely  exserted. 

E.  tomentosum,  Michx.  Abundant  in  the  region  between  the  val- 
ley of  the  Del  Norte  and  the  waters  of  the  Gila;  the  most  western 
station  hitherto  found  of  this  species,  which  is  almost  the  only 
Eriogonum  known  east  of  the  Mississippi. 

E.  Abertianum,  n.  sp.  Annual!  Canescently  tomentose;  stem 
dichotomous  above;  leaves  oblong-lanceolate,  attenuated  to  a petiole 
at  the  base;  involucres  solitary,  somewhat  racemose  on  the  branches, 
pedunculate,  many  flowered,  campanulate,  deeply  5 — 8-parted  ; 
exterior  sepals  nearly  orbicular,  deeply  cordate  at  the  base;  inner 
sepals  narrow,  carinate  below,  contracted  above,  somewhat  dilated 
and  emarginate  at  the  summit;  stamens  much  shorter  than  the  se- 
pals. Very  common  in  the  region  between  the  Del  Norte  and  the 
Gila.  Also  found  by  Lieutenant  Abert  on  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Arkansas.  Just  as  I was  sending  these  notes  to  the  press,  I received 
a visit  from  Mr.  Nuttall,  who  informed  me  that  a species  allied  to 
this  was  found  by  Mr.  Gambel,  in  his  late  journey  to  California. 
He  thinks  its  characters  differ  so  much  from  all  the  Eriogona  hith- 


erto described,  that  he  has  constituted  of  it  a new  genus  under  the 
name  of  Eucycla.  A full  account  of  Mr.  Gambel’s  plants,  by  Mr. 
Nuttall,  will  soon  be  published  in  the  journal  of  the  academy  of 
Philadelphia.  Our  plant  is  about  a foot  high,  with  loosely  panic- 
ulate branches. 

Th  e heads  and  flowers  are  nearly  as  large  as  those  of  E.  tomen- 
tosum. The  sepals  are  yellowish,  tinged  with  rose,  the  three  inner 
ones  differ  widely  from  the  others;  they  are  carinate  and  glandular 
on  the  back  below  the  middle,  and  closely  embrace  the  pistil,  the 
angles  of  which  correspond  with  the  keels  of  the  sepals. 

Imperfect  specimens  of  several  other  Eriogona  occur  in  the  col- 
lection. 


saururacet:. 


Anemopsis  Californica,  Nutt.  Hook,  in  hot.  Beechey’s  voy .,  p » 
390,  t.  92.  Yalley  of  the  Gila. 


151 


m 

EUPHORBIACEJE. 

Eremocarpus  setigerus,  Benth.  in  hot.  of  Sulph .,  p.  53,  L 26, 
Plains  of  San  Diego,  California. 

Hendecandra  Texensis,  Klotzsch.  H.  multiflora,  Torr.  in  Frem . 
1st  report.  Croton  muricatum , JVutt.  Valley  of  the  Del  Norte. 

Another  species  of  this  genus,  allied  to  H.  procumbens , was 
found  on  the  Cordilleras  of  Mexico,  but  the  materials  are  scarcely 
sufficient  for  determining  it  satisfactorily. 

Stillingia  spinulosa,  n.  sp.  Suffruticose?  leaves  rhombic-ovate, 
rigid,  narrowed  at  the  base,  prominently  3-nerved^  mucronately 
acuminate,  dentate-spinulose  on  the  margin;  spikes  axillary  and 
terminal;  sterile  flowers  sepile;  bracts  acuminate,  with  a stipitate 
gland  on  each  side  at  the  base.  Abundant  in  the  desert  west  of 
the  Colorado.  Stem  (apparently)  about  a span  high,  with  spread- 
ing branches.  Leaves  an  inch  or  more  in  length,  sessile,  neatly 
margined,  with  spreading  spinulose  teeth,  glabrous  on  both  sides. 
Spikes  numerous;  with  solitary  fertile  flowers  at  the  base.  Sterile 
flowers  about  as  long  as  the  scale.  Perianth  hemispherical,  irreg- 
ularly lobed  and  undulated.  Stamens  2.  Fertile  flowers  imperfect 
in  our  specimens.  Fruit  glabrous. 

Euphorbia  herniaroides,  Nutt.  Banks  of  the  Gila.  A pubes- 
cent variety  of  this  species  was  found  in  the  desert  west  of  the 
Colorado. 

CUPULIFERfE. 

Quercus  Emory i,’  n.  sp.  Leaves  coriaceous,  oblosg,  on  very 
short  petioles,  remotely  and  repandly  toothed,  the  serratures  mu- 
cronate,  smooth  on  both  sides;  fruit  pedunculate,  solitary  and  in 
pairs,  gland  ovoid- oblong,  mucronate;  cup  hemispherical,  the  scales 
appressed.  Common  in  the  elevated  country  between  the  Del 
Norte  and  the  Gila.  This  small-leaved  oak  resembles  Q.  agrifolia 
and  Q.  undulata , ( Torr . in  Ann.  lyc.  N.  York  2,  p.  248,  t.  4,)  but 
is  quite  distinct  from  both. 

SALICACEiE. 

Salix.  Several  narrow-leaved  willows  were  found  along  the 
Gila,  and  in  the  region  west  of  the  Colorado,  but  being  without 
fructification  they  cannot  be  determined.  One  of  them  is  used  as 
food  for  cattle  when  there  is  no  grass. 

PLATANACEfE, 

Platanus  Mexicanus,  Moricand  pi.  nouv.  ou  rares  d^Amer.  t.  26. 

P.  Calif ornicus,  Benth.  hot.  Sulph.,  p.  54.  P.  racemosus , Nutt.? 

Valiev  of  the  Gila. 

* 

CONIFERS. 

Ephedra  occidentalis,  Willd.?  From  the  region  between  the  Del 
Norte  and  the  Gila,  and  the  hills  bordering  the  latter  river  to  the 


152 


[7] 

4 

desert  west  of  the  Colorado.  A shrub  3 — 4 feet  high,  with  numer- 
ous slender  branches;  its  appearance  being  that  of  Scotch  broom, 
(Spartium  scoparium.)  The  sheaths  are  very  long,  3-parted,  with 
subulate-acuminate  segments.  This  can  hardly  be  the  E.  America- 
na of  Quito,  which  is  described  as  having  2-parted  sheaths.  The 
specimens  are  without  either  flowers  or  fruit.  If  the  species  should 
prove  to  be  new,  it  may  be  called  E.  trifurcus.  There  seems  to  be 
still  another  species  growing  on  the  table  lands  of  New  Mexico, 
differing  from  the  preceding  in  its  very  short  sheaths. 

Juniperus.  Two  undetermined  species  were  found  in  crossing 
the  country  from  the  Del  Norte  to  the  Gila.  Both  of  them  have 
the  general  character  of  J.  Virginiana . One  is  a large  tree,  with 
acerose  leaves,  and  a bark  like  that  of  a Pious;  the  other  has  short 
closely  appressed  leaves,  and  berries  larger  than  a buck  shot. 

AMARYLLIDACEHL 

Agave  Americana,  Linn.  Found  in  descending  the  western  slope 
of  the  Cordilleras  of  California.  This  is  the  maguey  of  the  Mexi- 
cans. It  shoots  up  a flowering  stalk  10  or  15  feet  high.  The  juice 
of  the  plant  affords  an  intoxicating  drink  called  pulque. 

Another  species  of  Agave,  or  a very  remarkable  variety  of  the 
preceding  was  found  in  New  Mexico,  west  of  the  Del  Norte.  It 
differs  from  A.  Americana  in  its  much  shorter  and  broader  leaves, 
which  are  furnished  with  smaller  marginal  spines. 

LILIACEiE. 

* 

Yucca.  The  leaves  only,  of  what  appear  to  be  four  species  of 
this  genus,  occur  in  the  collection,  but  we  cannot  identify  them  for 
want  of  the  inflorescence. 

ORCHID  ACE^E. 

Spiranthes  cernua,  Rich.  Low  grounds  in  the  valley  of  the  Del 
Norte. 


CYPERACEHC. 


Eleocharis  quadrangulata,  R.  Brown.  Valley  of  the  Gila. 
Cyperus  Michauxianus,  Schultes.  Valley  of  the  Gila. 


GRAMINEHL 


Chloris  alba,  Presfr.  Spikes  umbellate-fasciculate,  numerous, 
(8 — 12,)  the  peduncle  enclosed  in  a broad  compressed  sheath  ; 
spikelets  2-flowered;  upper  glume  nearly  as  long  as  the  flowers, 
2-toothed,  with  a short  awn  between  the  teeth;  lower  palea  of  the 
perfect  flower  obscurely  3-nerved,  gibbous  in  the  middle,  the  mar- 
gin ciliate  with  long  hairs  towards  the  summit;  awn  three  times  as 
long  as  the  palea;  neuter  flower  broad  and  truncate,  inclosing  a 
short  aristiform  rudiment;  the  awn  twice  as  long  as  the  palea.  Bed 
of  the  Gila.  Very  near  C.  harbata , which  differs  in  the  entire 


153 


[7] 

glumes,  which  are  only  mucronate,  (not  awned,)  in  the  entire 
straight  lower  palea  of  the  perfect  flower,  and  in  the  third  or  aristi- 
form  flower,  being  much  exserted. 

Bouteloua  racemosa,  Lagasca .?  Culm  erect,  simple;  spikes  nu- 
merous (20 — 40),  reflexed,  3-flowers;  lower  glume  linear-subulate; 
upper  one  linear-lanceolate,  scabrous,  entire,  nearly  as  long  as  the 
spikelets;  lower  palea  of  the  perfect  flower  unequally  tricuspidate, 
pubescent;  abortive  flower  reduced  to  a slender  awn,  which  is  nearly 
as  long  as  the  perfect  flower,  furnished  at  the  base  with  2 short 
and  inconspicuous  bristles.  Valley  of-  the  Gila,  rare.  This  plant 
agrees  pretty  well  with  Kunth’s  description  of  B.  ( Eutriana ,)  race - 
mosa , except  in  the  pubescent  lower  palea,  and  the  minute  bristles 
at  the  base  of  the  neuter  flower.  Whether  it  be  the  plant  of  La- 
gasca or  not  is  very  difficult  to  determine  from  his  brief  character. 
It  certainly  is  very  different  from  B.  racemosa  of  the  United  States, 
wThich  has  a large  3-awmed  neuter  flower,  and  if  distinct  from  La- 
gasca’s,  must  receive  another  name.  That  of  B.  curtipendula 
would  be  appropriate. 

Chondrosium  erUpodum,  n.  sp.  Culm  simple,  pubescent  below; 
spikes  4—6,  racemose,  appressed;  spikes  on  short  woolly  peduncles; 
spikelets  2-flowered;  flowers  distichous;  glumes  very  unequal,  glab- 
rous, linear- lanceolate,  mucronate,  entire;  lower  palea  of  the  per- 
fect flower  glabrous,  bifid  at  the  apex,  with  a short  bri'stle  between 
the  teeth;  neuter  flower  pedicellate,  with  3 slender  awns.  This  is 
one  of  the  species  of  u Grama”  so  useful  as  a fodder-grass  in  New 
Mexico.  It  is  abundant  along  the  Del  Norte,  and  in  the  region  be- 
tween that  river  and  the  w.aters  of  the  Gila.  The  culm  is  slender, 
a foot  or  more  in  height.  Leaves  are  very  narrovr,  2 — 3 inches 
long,  with  glabrous  sheaths;  sheath  almost  wanting.  Spikes  about 
three-fourths  of  an  inch  long. 

Chondrosium  fceneum,  n.  sp.  Leaves  glabrous;  spikes  2 — 3,  ob- 
long, falcate,  spreading;  rachis  nearly  half  the  length  of  the  spikes; 
upper  glume  nearly  as  long  at  the  perfect  flower,  with  two  rows  of 
piliferous  glands  on  the  back;  lower  palea  deeply  3-cleft,  the  seg- 
ments lanceolate  and  mucronate,  hairy  on  the  margin;  neuterflower 
of  two  truncate  emarginate  valves,  with  a 2-valved  rudiment  of  a 
third  flower,  and  3 short  stout  awns.  Uplands  bordering  the  valley 
of  the  Del  Norte.  This  is  another  of  the,  grasses  called  Gramm  in 
New  Mexico,  and  is  the  best  kind,  being  almost  as  good  fodder  as 
oats.  It  is  nearly  allied  to  Atkeropogon  ( Chondrosium ,)  oligosta- 
chyum  of  Nuttall. 

Chondrosium  polystachyum,  Benth.  hot.  Sulph.  p.  56.  Uplands 
bordering  the  Gila.  The  smallest  kind  of  u Grama ” found  on  the 
journey.  It  is  about  6 inches  high,  very  slender.  The  spikes  are 
narrowly  linear,  and  almost  half  an  inch  long,  erect,  on  short 
brownish  peduncles.  The  other  characters  agree  minutely  with 
Mr.  Bentham’s  admirable  detailed  description  in  the  work  quoted 
above. 

Leptochloa  filiformis,  Roem , and  Schults.  Valley  of  the  Gila. 
Scarcely  distinct  from  L.  mucronata  ot  the  United  States. 

Sesleria.I  dactyloides,  Nutt.  Upper  part  of  the  Arkansas.  This, 


154 


[7] 

is' the  celebrated  u Buffalo  grass  ff'  so  called  because  it  constitutes 
the  chief  fodder  of  the  wild  buffalo,  during  the  season  that 
it  flourishes.  I have  retained  this  plant,  for  the  present,  where  it 
was  placed  by  Mr.  Nuttall,  who  noticed  its  anomalous  characters. 
It  differs  from  Sesleria,  and  indeed  from  the  Tube  Festucacece,  in. 
its  habit,  which  is  that  of  Chondrosium.  The  stem  throws  off  suck- 
ers which  root  at  the  joints,  from  whence  leaves  and  culms  of  a few 
inches  in  height  are  thrown  up.  The  spikes  are  two  or  three  in 
number,  on  short  spreading  peduncles.  They  are  oblong,  about 
half  an  inch  in  length,  and  obtuse;  bearing  from  6 to  8 spikelets, 
which  are  unilateral,  and  form  a double  row  on  the  rachis.  The 
spikelets  are  usually  2-flowered,  but  I have  occasionally  found  them 
with  3 flowers,  and  even  the  rudiment  of  a fourth.  The  glumes 
are  very  unequal,  oblong-ovate,  coriaceo-membranaceous,  carinate 
and  one-nerved,  the  upper  one  slightly  mucronate.  Palea  oblong- 
lanceolate,  and  somewhat  keeled,  membranaceous,  nearly  equal, 
but  longer  than  the  glumes,  entire,  glabrous  except  on  the  keel; 
the  lower  3-nerved,  the  upper  hi- carinate.  Anthers  large,  linear, 
fulvous.  In  all  the  specimens  of  this  collection,  as  well  as  in  those 
in  my  herbarium  from  numerous  other  localities,  there  are  no  fertile 
flowers,  and  only  in  a few  instances  rudimentary  styles,  so  that  the 
plant  seems  to  be  dioecious  or  polygamous  by  abortion. 

Arundo  .Phragmites,  Linn.  Yalley  of  the  Dei  Norte,  and  along 
the  Gila. 

Andropogon  argenteus,  DC.^Kunth.  enum.  1 , p.  500.  Yalley  of 
the  Gila.  A handsome  species,  with  the  spikes  in  a terminal  pani- 
cle, which  has  a white  appearance  from  the  abundant  silky  hairs  of 
the  flowers. 

A.  macrourus,  Michx.  With  the  preceding. 

Besides  these  grasses,  there  were  a few  others,  mostly  collected 
in  the  valley  of  the  Gila,  but  which  I have  not  determined,  as  the 
specimens  are  not  so  complete  as  could  be  desired.  Among  them 
are  a Glyceria , two  Jlgrostides , five  species  of  Panicum  and  a Poa 
(Eragrostis,)  with  large  elongated  spikelets.  In  some  parts  of  the 
valley  of  the  Del  Norte,  Sorghum  vulgare  is  cultivated,  and  was 
found  partly  naturalized. 

EQUISETACEiE. 

Equisetum  hyemale,  Linn.  Lower  part  of  the  Colorado. 

FILICES. 

Adiantum  tenerum,  Swartz.  Yalley  of  the  Gila.  This  species 
is  widely  spread  over  the  southern  part  of  North  America,  and  yet 
has  not  hitherto  obtained  a place  in  our  Flora.  We  have  it  from 
Alabama,  Florida,  Texas,  and  various  parts  of  California. 

Lycopodium.  A small  species  allied  to  L.  rupestre , was  found 
in  descending  the  Gila.  It  differs  in  its  incurved  leaves,  which  are 
mucronate,  but  without  a bristle  at  the  tip.  No  fructification  ex- 
ists in  the  specimen. 


155 


St.  Louis,  February  13,  1848. 

My  Dear  Sir:  Your  letter,  together  with  the  package  containing 
the  drawings  of  a number  of  most  interesting  cactacem,  arrived 
safely  here  about  two  wTeeks  ago. 

On  the  occasion  of  my  report  on  the  botany  of  Dr.  Wislizenus’s 
voyage,  I have  made  a careful  investigation  of  the  cactacese,  of 
which  he  brought  home  with  him  more  than  20  species,  and  have 
been  enabled  to  elucidate  several  points  which  had  been  unknown, 
or  obscure  before;  no  doubt  because  in  the  hot-houses  of  European 
gardens  these  curious  plants,  though  they  thrive  pretty  well,  rarely 
produce  Hoovers  and  fruit;  so  that  from  800  species  of  cactacese  at 
present  cultivated  in  Europe,  perhaps  not  one-fourth  is  known  as 
to  its  flower,  and  a much  smaller  proportion  in  fruit. 

I am  now  able  to  distinguish  all  the  different  genera  of  cactaceae  * 
by  their  seed,  and  sometimes  even  the  different  sections  of  one 
genus. 

The  small  black  shining  seed  sent  me,  belongs  to  a true  Cereusy 
probably  the  plant  which  you  mention  under  the  name  of  pitahaya, 
the  larger  opaque  black  seed  is  that  of  an  EchinocactuSy  and  the 
largest  white  seed  is  the  seed  of  an  Opuntia  of  the  section  cylin - 
dracece. 

I have  ventured  to  describe  some  of  your  species  from  the  draw- 
ing; my  description,  however,  and  the  names  given  by  me,  must 
remain  doubtful  till  we  are  able  to  obtain  some  more  data  to  charac- 
terize the*species.  I have  written  it  more  for  your  information  than 
for  publication,  but  if  you  choose  to  append  it  to  your  published  re- 
port,  I have  no  objection  to  it,  but  must  request  you  to  make  such 
corrections  or  alterations  as  your  notes  or  your  recollection  of  the 
plants  will  enable  you  to  do;  for  example,  as  to  size,  as  in  some  of 
the  drawings  no  size  is  mentioned, # in  which  case  I have  assumed 
them  to  represent  the  natural  size.  I have,  for  convenience  sake, 
numbered  the  different  figures,  and  shall  now  proceed  to  copy  for 
you  the  descriptions  and  remarks  following  my  numbers. 

1.  Mammilaria,  October  18,  1846. 

Proliferous  in  the  highest  degree,  forming  hemispherical  masses 
often  of  a diameter  3J  feet;  which  are  composed  of  100 — 200 
different  heads  or  stems.  Single  heads  conical,  apparently  about 
4 or  5 inches  high,  and  2J — 3 inches  in  diameter;  color,  bluish 
green;  spines  white  or  reddish. 

This  species  appears  to  be  allied  to  M.  vivipara , but  is  distin- 
guished by  the  conical  heads,  and  the  hemispherical  tufts,  while 
M.  vivipara  has  hemispherical  or  even  depressed  heads,  and  forms 
flat  and  spreading  masses. 

It  may  be  an  undescribed  species,  in  which  case  the  name  of 
M.  aggregata  appears  to  be  most  appropriate. 

2.  Mammilaria , October  26,  1846.  Rare. 

Apparently  a mammilaria , though  the  ffabit  of  the  plant  is  more 
that  of  an  Echinocereus , but  all  Echinocerei  have  the  bunches  of 


* Where  the  size  is  not  mentioned,  the  original  drawings  are  the  size  of  nature.  W.  H.  E. 


156 


H] 

spines  disposed  in  vertical  ridges,  which  is  not  the  case  in  the  figure 
in  question.  Stems  irregularly  cylindrical,  with  divers  contractions 
and  swelling,  about  4—  6 inches  high,  and  1J  and  1|  inches  in  di- 
ameter, many  (in  the  fig.  8)  from  one  base- 

The  name  of  M.  fasciculata  would  indicate  the  peculiarity  of 
this  species. 

3.  Mammilaria , u November  4,  1846,  abundant. ” 

Several  (fig.  3)  oval  stems  from  one  base,  1J — 2J  inches  high, 
and  inch  in  diameter*  tubercles  in  about  13  rows;  spines  whitish, 
short;  1 small  obovate  red  berry  toward  the  apex  not  more  than  1| 
line  long.  ' 

If  the  figure  is  correct,  this  species  ought  to  be  distinguished  by 
the  name  of  M.  microcarpa , as  I know  of  no  other  Mammilaria 
with  such  a small  fruit. 

4.  Echinocactus  Wvelizeni.  (Engelm.  in  Wislizenus’s  report.) 
u October  26,  1846.”  In  addition  to  the  description  in  Dr.  W.’s 
report,  which  I have  drawn  up  from  dried  specimens,  I observe  in 
this  figure  that  the  species  has  21  oblique  ribs,  is  of  an  oval  shape, 
and  bluish  green  color;  the  ribs  are  acute,  but  not  compressed,  ac- 
cording to  the  representation  of  a section,  and  the  groves  corres- 
ponding. 

5.  Echinocactus , u October  25,  1846,  18  inches  in  diameter.” 
Height  equal  to  the  diameter;  shape  ventricose,  contracted  towar ds 
the  vertex,  therefore  somewhat  urceolate;  with  21  straight  sharp 
ribs;  spines  apparently  8,  straight,  brown,  color  of  plant  bright 
green;  vertex  whitish,  (tomentose?)  fruit  1 or  1J  inches  long,  oval, 
yellowish  or  reddish.  Seed  obovate,  obliquely  truncated  at  base, 
full  1 line  long,  black,  opaque,  slightly  roughened;  embryo  curved 
or  hooked,  cotyledons  accumbent,  partly  buried  in  the  large  farina- 
ceous albumen. 

This  species  is  distinct  from  all  other  New  Mexican  species  ex- 
amined by  me,  and  is  most  probably  undescribed.  I propose  to 
name  it  after  its  zealous  discoverer,  who  has,  surmounting  number- 
less difficulties,  though  occupied  by  severe  and  arduous  duties, 
found  leisure  to  do  so  much  for  the  advancement  of  cur  knowledge 
of  the  wild  countries  traversed  by  him,  Echinocactus  Emoryi. 

6.  Cereus,  u November  21,  1846,  3 feet  high.” 

There  can  be  but  little  doubt  but  that  we  have  here  a species  be- 
fore us,  which  I have  received  from  Dr.  Wislizenus  and  from  Dr. 
Gregg,  from  the  neighborhood  of  Chihuahua,  and  which  I have  de- 
scribed in  Dr.  W.’s  report  by  the  name  of  C.  Greggii)  erect,  branch- 
ing, wilh  5 compressed  ribs,  dark  green,  with  whitish  areolee,  and 
about  8 short  dusky  spines. 

The  specimen  figured  here  is  very  remarkable  on  account  of  the 
fruit,  which  was  unknown  to  me.  Provided  the  drawing  is  correct, 
we  have  here  a smooth  oval  accuminate  fruit,  crowned  with  the  re- 
mains of  the  corolla,  and  supported  by  a distinct  stipe  of  a bright 
crimson  color.  A stipe,  as  well  as  such  an  acumination,  I have  not 
see  in  any  other  fruit  of  a cactus.  Fruit,  with  the  long  acumina- 
tion, 2J  inches  long,  | to  1 inch  in  diameter,  stipe  about  \ inch 
long. 


AT°  6. 


157 


m 

7.  Opuntia.  “Very  abundant  on  the  Del  Norte  and  Gila.”  No 
date  nor  statement  whether  the  figure  represents  the  natural  size  or 
is  smaller. 

The  species  belongs  to  the  section  ellipticce  of  Salm;  it  is  ascend- 
ing, older  stems  prostrate,  branches  and  younger  joints  erect,  8 — 10 
inches  high;  joints  orbicular  obovate,  rounded,  obtuse  or  some- 
times acutish,  of  a bluish  green  color,  1J  to  2J  inches  long,  and 
little  less  wide;  spines  short  and  whitish;  berries  obovate,  scarlet, 
only  about  3 or  4 inches  long.  If  the  figure  represents  the  natural 
size,  this  species  ought  to  bear  the  name  0 microcarpa. 

8.  Opuntia.  “October  28,  1846,  common  on  the  Gila.55  Much 
branched,  sub-erect,  joints  obovate,  often  acutish,  purplish,  with 
two  or  three  longer  brown  spines  directed  downwards;  fruits  obo- 
vate, red.  In  the  figure,  the  joints  are  1^ — 2 inches  long,  and  1 — - 
1J  wide;  fruit  about  3 lines  long. 

There  are  several  opuntise  known  with  purple  colored  joints,  but 
none  in  the  least  resembling  this,  and  I must  consider  it  as  a dis- 
tinct species  to  which  I would  give  the  name  of  0.  violacea. 

9.  Opuntia ? “October  22d,  1846.  Abundant  on  the  Del  Norte 
and  Gila.55  A remarkable  plant  apparently  more  like  a Mammilla - 
ria  than  like  an  Opuntia.  The  fruit  is  also  represented  without 
areolae  or  tubercles,  exactly  like  the  smooth  fruit  of  a Mammillaria  ; 
but  this  may  be  an  oversight  in  the  artist.  The  habit  of  the  plant 
suggests  the  belief  that  it  is  an  opuntia  of  the  section  cylindracece . 

Joints  or  branches  ascending,  cylindrical,  tuberculated,  4 — 6 
inches  long;  1 — 1 \ inches  in  diameter;  tubercles  very  prominent, 
with  about  8 long  (1 — inches)  straight  spines;  fruit  obovate, 
umbilicate,  scarlet,  towards  the  top  of  the  branches,  about  9 lines 
long,  and  6 in  diameter. 

It  is  a distinct  species,  which  I am  gratified  to  dedicate  to  the 
skilful  artist  who  has  drawn  all  these  figures,  Mr.  J.  M.  Stanly;  I 
therefore  propose  for  it  the  name  Opuntia  Stanlyi. 

10.  Opuntia.  “November  3d,  1846,  4 feet  high.55  Stem  erect, 
with  verticilate  horizontal,  or  somewhat  pendulous  branches* 
branches  cylindrical,  strongly  tuberculated,  about  8 lines  in  diame- 
ter, with  short  spines  on  the  tubercles;  fruit  pale  yellow,  clavate, 
tuberculate,  umbilicate,  1 to  \\  inches  long,  6 — 8 lines  in  diameter. 

This  is  probably  the  Opuntia  arhorescens , Engelm.  in  Wisliz^s 
report , though  the  spines  are  represented  as  being  shorter  than  in 
my  specimens  of  0.  arhorescens  from  New  Mexico  and  Chihuahua. 

11.  Opuntia.  “November  2d,  1846.  Somewhat  resembling  the 
last,  but  forming  ‘low,  wide  spreading  bushes.  5 55  Joints  more 
slender,  only  about  4 or  5 lines  in  diameter,  alternating  (not  oppo- 
site nor  verticillate,)  forming  with  the  stem  an  acute  angle,  sub- 
erect, tubercles  more  prominent,  eerolee  whitish  at  their  lower  edge 
with  3 dusky  deflexed  spines;  fruit  clavate,  tuberculate,  pale  yel- 
low, 1 inch  long,  4 lines  in  diameter. 

I believe  this  to  be  an  undescribed  species,  and  would  propose 
the  name  for  it  of  O.  Californica. 

12.  Opuntia.  “October  10,  1846,  abundant,55  3 feet  high,  with 
spreading  branches;  the  same  in  circumference. 


158 


[7] 

I can  see  no  difference  between  this  figure  and  a plant  which  T 
have  received  from  El  Passo,  by  Dr.  Wislizenus,  and  which  I have 
described  in  his  report  under  the  name  of  0.  vaginata. 

Nos.  13 — 15  are  no  Cacti.  In  13,  I recognize  the  Kceherlinia 
zuccarini , a shrub  common  in  the  chaparals  of  northern  Mexico, 
which  has  been  collected  in  flower  about  Parras  and  Saltillo,  by 
Drs.  Wislizenus  and  Gregg.  The  fruit  is  unknown  so  far;  the  speci- 
men figured  is,  however,  in  fruit;  the  berry  (?)  is  globose,  | — 1 line 
in  diameter,  crowned  with  the  rudiment  of  the  style.  It  was  col- 
lected October  23d,  1846,  and  is  described  as  a shrub  3 feet  high, 
with  low,  spreading  boughs. 

14.  Collected  “November  15,  1846,  4 feet  high,  rare,”  is,  per- 
haps, another  species  of  the  same  genus;  but  the  entire  absence  of 
flower  or  fruit  makes  it  impossible  to  decide. 

Branches  similar,  straight,  leafless,  ending  in  robust  dark  spines; 
but  much  elongated  and  sub-erect,  not  horizontal,  as  in  No.  13. 

15.  “October  22 d,  very  abundant,  3 feet  high,  fruit  5 inches 
long.”  It  is  entirely  unknown  to  me,  perhaps  an  agave?  at  least 
some  amaryllidaceous  plant,  if  the  fruit  is  correctly  represented, 
with  large  radical  leaves,  and  a ribbed  or  angular  inferior  fruit, 
crowned  with  the  remains  of  the  flower. 

In  your  letter  you  figure  and  describe  a cactus  plant,  of  which 
you  have  before  sent  me  the  seeds;  if  I am  correct  about  this  from 
your  notes,  I would  describe  it  in  the  following  manner: 

Stem  tall,  erect,  simple,  or  with  a few  erect  branches,  below 
without  spines;  ribs  about  20,  oblique  or  spiral;  fruit  large,  edible; 
seeds  small  (0.7  lines  long,)  obovate,  obliquely  truncate  at  base, 
black,  smooth,  shining,  embryo  hooked,  no  albumen;  cotyledons 
foliaceous  incumbent. 

Stems  2 — 5 feet  in  circumference,  25  to  60  feet  high. 

The  only  true  Cercus  approaching  this  in  size  is  Cereus  Peru- 
vianus;  but  this  is  vastly  different.  The  question  then  arises 
whether  our  species  is  not  one  of  the  few  arranged  now  under  the 
genus  Pilocereus ; but  if  it  is  a constant  fact  that  the  cotyledons  of 
Pilocereus  are  thick  and  globose,  our  species  cannot  belong  here; 
the  cotyledons  are  absolutely  those  of  a true  Cereus.  It  is  called 
In  California  pitahaya , but  it  appears  that  the  Mexicans  call  by  that 
name  all  large  columnar  cacti,  the  fruit  of  which  is  edible.  The 
plant,  which  is  commonly  called  Cereus  variabilis,  is  widelydiffer- 
ent  from  this  California  giant. 

I propose  for  it  the  name  Cereus  gigantens. 

The  large  white  seed  is  that  of  an  Opuntia  of  the  section  cylin- 
dracece , embryo  circular,  curved  around  a pretty  large  albumen, 
but  not  spiral. 

Very  truly,  yours, 


G.  ENGELMANN. 


I 


CA  TV Endwotthth- IfewYor 


DALEA  FORMOSA 


I 

, 


. \ 


■ 


Q.  & K Sndtcoit IlZ/i~Mea>.  York/. 


FALLUGrIA  PARAROXA 


III. 


LARREA  MEXICAN  A. 


& MS  JZitiliMib  J/itTL  ffluo  York-. 


£ & Wlridic/iltLith.  New  lork . 

ZINNIA  GRAND  IF  LORA. 


C.&  IV ' EndwpftMth.fiewYork 


I ■' 


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7 


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> 


1 


ARCTOSTAP HYPOS  PUN PENS. 


FOUQUIER  A 


SPIN  0-5  A 


Q.  & W Snduott  Irih'-  fflav.Yorh- 


- — ^ 


IX 


G %C  W Bndecott Lith.  'fiemyork. 

gUERCUS  EM0RT1. 


-X 


&C  W JSnd^cott  htk  lien?  York. 


SESLERIA  DACTYLOIDES 


G.  Gc  W EndUcoll liih.H ewYorh . 


IPQMCEA 


LEPTOPHYLLA 


XII, 


159 


[7] 


EXPLANATION  OF  THE  PLATES. 


Plate  1 — Dalea  formosa. — A branch  of  the  natural  size,  with  a separate  iiower  mag- 
nified. 

Plate  2 — F allugia  paradox  as — Natural  size,  with  a separate  carpel  magnified. 

Plate  3 — Larrea  Mexicana. — A branch  of  the  natural  size.  Figure  1.  Separate  flower. 
Figure  2.  External  view  of  a stamen,  with  a scale  at  its  base.  Figure  3.  The  same, 
seen  from  the  opposite  side.  Figure  4.  Ovary  and  style.  The  last  three  figures  mag- 
nified. 

Plate  4 — Zinnia  grandijiora. — The  entire  plant,  except  the  root.  Figure  1.  A head  of 
flowers.  Figure  2.  A ray  flower,  natural  size.  Figure  3.  A disk  flower.  Figure  4. 
Stamen.  Figure  5.  Portion  of  the  style,  with  its  branches.  The  last  three  figures 
more  or  less  magnified. 

Plate  5 — Ridellia  tagetina. — A branch  of  the  natural  size.  Figure  1.  Achenium  and  pap- 
pus of  a ray  flower  magnified.  Figure  2.  A ray  flower  less  magnified.  Figure  3.  A 
disk  flower.  Figure  4.  Part  of  the  style,  with  its  branches.  The  last  two  figures 
considerably  magnified. 

Plate  6 — Baileya  multiradiata.-—  The  whole  plant,  except  the  lower  portion  of  the  stem. 
Figure  1.  A ray  flower.  Figure  2-  A disk  flower.  Figure  3.  Two  of  the  stamens* 
Figure  4.  Style  and  its  branches.  All  magnified. 

Plate  7 — JLrctostaphylos  pungens. 

Plate  8 — Fouquiera  spinosa. — Summit  of  the  stem  and  panicle  of  flowers.  Figure  1.  A 
capsule,  with  the  valves  separated,  showing  the  placentiferous  axis.  Figure  2.  A seed. 
(Both  of  natural  size.)  Figure  3.  Tranverse  section  of  a seed.  Figure  4.  Embryo. 
(The  last  two  magnified.)  Figures  5 and  6.  Spiral  vessels  composing  the  testa  of  the 
seed,  greatly  magnified. 

Plate  9 — Quercus  Emoryi.— Figures  1 and  2.  Acorns  of  the  same.  All  the  figures  of 
natural  size.  \ 

Plate  10— Sesleria  dactyloides . — The  entire  plant  of  the  natural”  size.  Figure  1.  A spike- 
let.  Figure  2.  Glumes.  Figure  3.  Staminate  flower.  Figure  4.  The  same,  with  the 
palese  removed.  All  the  figures  magnified. 

Plate  11 — Ipomcza  leptophylla- — A branch  of  the  natural  size.  Figure  1.  Pistil. 

Plate  12 — Chondrosium  faneum,-—' Two  plants  of  the  natural  size.  Figure  1.  A spikelet 
magnified.  Figure  2.  The  same,  with  the  glumes  removed,  somewhat  more  highly 
magnified.  Figure  3.  Upper  palea  of  the  perfect  flower. 


160 


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APPENDIX  No.  5. 


TABLE 

ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS- 


APPENDIX  No.  5 


ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

Note.- — The  lunar  distances  were  reduced  by  Professor  Hubbard, 
by  Bessel’s  method,  which  is  presumed  to  be  the  most  accurate 
method  known.  The  important  changes  made  in  the  longitude  of 
one  or  two  leading  positions,  must,  therefore,  depend  for  authen- 
tication upon  the  observations  themselves. 

These  observations  have  not,  in  all  cases,  been  multiplied  to  the 
extent  desired,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  service  on  which  the  un- 
dersigned was  employed;  but  there  is  no  reason  on  the  face  of  them 
for  doubting  the  results  deduced. 

W.  H.  EMORY. 


Jmie  21,  1846.-—  Fort  Leavenworth. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time. 

P-  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyras 

Chronometer  fast. 

in 

the  east 

• 

h. 

m. 

ueg. 

min . 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

01 

46.5 

102 

00 

20 

6 

53 

14.9 

4 

04 

52 

103 

09 

35 

6 

53 

14.8 

4 

4 

06 

(yrf 

15  2 

on 

103 

l irw 

i(>± 

40 

sj'Cj 

30 

20 

6 

0 

53 

53 

15.4 
15  7 

4 

08 

27.1 

104 

29 

35 

6 

53 

53 

16.0 

4 

09 

56.7 

105 

02 

30 

6 

17  6 

4 

11 

18.5 

105 

33 

30 

6 

53 

16  6 

4 

12 

46.2 

106 

07 

20 

6 

53 

14  1 

4 

13 

57.3 

106 

53 

35 

6 

53 

15  0 

4 

15 

59 

107 

18 

40 

6 

53 

16.7 

Thermometer  60°. 


181 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
June  21,  1846. — Fort  I^eavenworth. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,,  p.  m. 

Double  altitude  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

/?. 

m. 

s. 

4 

21 

39.8 

126 

57 

50 

6 

53 

19.2 

4 

29 

18.0 

126 

08 

10 

6 

53 

17.4 

4 

30 

32.0 

125 

46 

50 

6 

53 

20.2 

4 

32 

30.2 

125 

10 

20 

6 

53 

18.5 

4 

33 

59.1 

124 

44 

00 

6 

53 

20.2 

4 

35 

31.5 

124 

14 

40 

6 

53 

17.0 

4 

. 37 

14.7 

123 

43 

00 

6 

53 

18.1 

4 

38 

52.8 

123 

12 

05 

6 

53 

17.2 

4 

40 

35.3 

122 

41 

15 

6 

53 

21.9  rej. 

4 

42 

17.0 

122 

08 

00 

6 

53 

18.7 

Thermometer  60°. 


Chronometer  fast  by  10  obs.  of  east  star 
Chronometer  fast  by  y oos.  or  wcot 


h.  m.  s. 

6 55  i m 


Mean. 


6 53  17.09 


determination  of  index  error. 


Off  the  arc  

On  the  arc * • • 

Index  error  — + 20v. 


m.  s. 
31  50 

31  10 


?*v 

i 


182 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
June  21,  1846. — .Fori  Leavenworth. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


I!it- 


Time, 

i _ 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec 

4 

59 

03.0 

76 

36 

40 

39 

21 

29 

5 

01 

02.2 

76 

37 

55 

39 

21 

34 

5 

03 

28,6 

76 

38 

55 

39 

21 

22 

5 

05 

13.5 

76 

40 

50 

i 39 

21 

24 

5 

06 

50.3 

76 

41 

05 

39 

21 

28 

5 

08 

22.5 

76 

41 

45 

39 

21 

23 

5 

09 

50.8 

76 

42 

30 

39 

21 

10 

5 

11 

12.2 

76 

43 

50 

39 

21 

27 

D 

1.2 

29.6 

76 

44 

35 

39 

2-1 

36 

5 

13 

55 . 0 

76 

45 

20 

39 

21 

33 

5 

15 

18.8 

76 

46 

20 

39 

21 

39 

r 

D 

16 

44.7 

76 

47 

10 

39 

21 

36 

5 

18 

15.0 

76 

48 

20 

39 

21 

45 

5 

19 

41.8 

76 

48 

40 

39 

21 

28 

5 

21 

23.5 

76 

49 

50 

39 

21 

32 

76 

61 

in 

DO 

21 

41 

Mean  of  16  observations,  39°  21'  30". 


183  - [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

June  21.  1846, — Fort  Leavenworth . 

/ 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a,  m.- 

—June  22. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun's  upper  limb. 

y 

Time, 

— 

p.  m.— 

-June  21. 

Chroaoraet 

er  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S . 

Beg. 

min. 

h. 

711. 

5*. 

k. 

m. 

s. 

5 

-05 

42 . 0 

125 

50 

8 

45 

51.8 

6 

53 

17.8 

5 

03 

15 . 8 

123 

40 

8 

46 

19.8 

6 

53 

18.23 

5 

02 

46.0 

123 

30 

8 

46 

49.7 

6 

53 

18 . 33 

5 

02 

17.0 

123 

20 

■ 8 

47 

17.0 

6 

53 

17.48 

Lost 

« 

123 

10 

8 

47 

46 . 0 

5 

01 

19.2 

123 

00 

8 

48 

15.1 

6 

53 

17.58 

5 

00 

51.5 

1.22 

50 

8 

48 

43.5 

6 

53 

17.53 

5 

00 

23.5 

122 

40 

Lost 

0 

4 

59 

54,5 

122 

30 

o 

O 

49 

39 . 7 

6 

53 

17.58 

122 

20 

*8 

50 

08.5 

122 

10 

8 

50 

36.2 

fe- 

12.2 

00 

8 

51 

06 . 0 

3 

47 

37.5 

95 

40 

10  ‘ 

01 

57,5 

6 

53 

17.96 

3 

47 

11  .5 

95 

30 

10 

02 

24.0 

6 

53 

18 . 2 1 

3 

46 

44.2  | 

95 

20 

10 

02 

50.2 

6 

53 

17 . 66 . 

3 

46 

18.5  | 

95 

10 

10 

03 

15.5 

6 

53 

17.46 

3 

45 

52.5  | 

95 

00 

10 

03 

41.5 

6 

53 

37.46 

3 

O 

O 

45 

45 

26.8  j 
11.0 

94 

94 

50 

40  ! 

10 

10 

04 

04 

08.3 

34.1 

6 

6 

53 

53 

18.01 

18.01 

3 

44 

34.0 

94 

30 

10 

05 

00.0 

6 

53 

17.46 

3 

3 

44 

41 

08.5 

57.5 

94 

93 

20 

30 

10 

10 

05 

07 

26.2 

38.2 

6 

6 

53 

53 

17.81 

18.31 

3 

41 

32.5 

93 

20 

10 

08 

03.0 

6 

53 

18.21 

3 

41 

15.3 

93 

10 

10 

08 

28.0 

6 

53 

17.11 

3 

40 

39.5 

93 

00 

10 

08 

55.2 

6 

53 

17.81 

3 

40 

14.2 

92 

50 

10 

09 

21.0 

6 

53 

18 . 06 

Lost. 

92 

40 

10 

09 

47.0 

17.06 

3 

39 

21.5 

92 

30 

10 

10 

11.9 

6 

53 

Ther. 

o 

O 

Ther. 

75° 

__ 

Mean  of  22  observationsj  6A.  53 m.  17 .IQs. 


184 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
June  22,  1346. — Fort  Leavenworth . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Bttiz.’sz rr 

Time. 

a.  iTu 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h . 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

■.  min . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

k. 

m. 

s. 

3 

48 

02.5 

95 

50 

10 

01 

42.5 

6 

53 

16.69 

3 

47 

37.5 

95 

40 

10 

02 

08.2 

6 

53 

17.04 

3 

47 

11.5 

95 

30 

10 

02 

33.5 

6 

53 

16 . 69 

3 

46 

44.2 

95 

20 

10 

02 

59.1 

6 

53 

15.84 

3 

46 

18.5 

95 

10 

10 

03 

26.5 

6 

53 

16.69 

3 

45 

52. 5 

95 

00 

10 

03 

52.0 

6 

53 

16.44 

3 

45 

26.8 

94 

50 

10 

04 

18.0 

6 

53 

46.59 

3 

45 

01.0 

94 

40 

10 

04 

45.1 

6 

53 

17.24 

3 

44 

35.0 

94 

30 

10 

05 

11.0 

6 

53 

17.19 

3 

44 

08.5 

94 

20 

10 

05 

36.8 

6 

53 

16.84 

Lost. 

94 

10 

10 

06 

2.3 

Lost. 

94 

00 

10 

06 

28.5 

3 

41 

57.5 

93 

30 

10 

07 

45.8 

6 

53 

15.84 

3 

41 

32.5 

93 

20 

10 

08 

11.8 

6 

53 

16.34 

<r\  f) 

no 
y r> 

10 

10 

n« 

e 

G 

03 

, it). 24 

3 

40 

39.5 

93 

00 

10 

09 

05.0 

6 

53 

16.44 

3 

40 

14.2 

92 

50 

10 

09 

30.2 

6 

53 

16.29 

Tber. 

68° 

Th 

er. 

|| 

Mean  of  15  observations,  6k . 53m.  16.52s. 


185 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
June  .24,  1846. — Fort  Leavenworth . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time; 

p.  in. 

■ 

Double  altitudes  of  Lyrae  in 
the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg.  min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

26 

24.0 

115  45 

10 

6 

53 

06.2 

4 

27 

37.8 

116  13 

05 

6 

53 

06.0 

4 

29 

38.0 

116  58 

30 

6 

53 

06.6 

4 

30 

55.7 

117  27 

55 

6 

53 

06.7 

4 

32 

37.5 

118  06 

40 

6 

53 

06.3 

4 

33 

58.2 

118  37 

10 

6 

53 

06.7 

4 

35 

33.7 

119  13 

45 

6 

53 

05.9 

4 

37 

47.0 

120  04 

25 

6 

53 

05.9 

4 

39 

30.2 

120  44 

05 

6 

53 

04.7 

Thermometer  66°. 


Tirnn, 

r».  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 

Ch 

r/vr*— 



in  tne  west. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

5“. 

4 

44 

52.0 

117 

22 

50 

6 

53 

11.5 

4 

46 

47.5 

116 

44 

55 

6 

53 

14.6 

rej. 

4 

48 

19.0 

116 

13 

00 

6 

53 

11.8 

4 

50 

06.8 

115 

35 

35 

6 

53 

09.8 

4 

54 

31.5 

114 

04 

40 

6 

53 

09.7 

4 

55 

58.5 

113 

34 

30 

6 

53 

09.8 

4 

57 

14.2 

113 

09 

10 

6 

53 

14.3 

rej. 

4 

58 

38.5 

112 

38 

40 

6 

53 

09.3 

5 

00 

26.7 

112 

01 

45 

6 

53 

12.0 

5 

02 

05.0 

111 

27 

25 

6 

53 

12.2 

Barometer  39.52  Thermometer  64°. 

34.57 


Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  east  star 
Chronometer  fast  by  8 obs.  of  west  star 


h.  m.  s. 

6 53  06.58 

10.76 


Mean 


6 53  08.67 


[7.] 


186 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
June  25,  1846. — Fort  Leavenworth. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time. 

p.  M.  ' 

Doable  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time. 

a.  m.- 

-June  20. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

Til. 

s\ 

Deo;. 

rain. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4. 

m. 

s. 

10 

08 

34.5 

S3 

20 

3 

42 

24.5 

6 

53 

07.09 

10 

09 

00.0 

QQ 

tj 

10 

3 

41 

59.5 

6 

53 

07.35 

10 

10 

44.2 

09 

•s  Aj/ 

30 

3 

40 

15.0 

6 

53 

07.31 

10 

11 

10.2 

92 

20 

3 

39 

48.5 

6 

53 

06.71 

10 

11 

36.5 

92 

10 

10 

12 

02.8 

QQ 

00 

3 

38 

58.0 

6 

53 

08.02 

10 

14 

38.0 

91 

00 

3 

36 

20.5 

6 

53 

06.88 

10 

17 

14.2 

90 

00 

O 

D 

33 

44.0 

6 

53 

06.73 

10 

17 

40.0 

89 

50 

Ther 

o 

CO 

p« 

I fie r. 

74° 

Barometer,  39.50. 

' 34.48. 

Mean  of  7 observations,  64.  53m.  07. 16,s. 


n o j iOio. — -irvsb  Ijeavznwortfl. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time. 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time,  p 

. m. 

Chronometer  fast . 

t 

4. 

m. 

s . 

Deer. 

min . 

4. 

?n. 

S. 

k. 

m. 

s. 

3 

38 

58.0 

92 

00 

10 

12 

07.0 

6 

53 

05 . 97 

Tost. 

92 

10 

10 

11 

41.2 

3 

39 

48. 1 

92 

20 

10 

11 

14.2 

6 

53 

04.57 

3 

40 

15.0 

92 

30 

10 

10 

48.2 

6 

53 

05.07 

3 

40 

40.8 

92 

40 

10 

10 

22.5 

6 

53 

05.12 

3 

41 

09.2 

92 

50 

10 

09 

57.5 

6 

53 

06.32 

3 

41 

33.0 

93 

00 

10 

09 

30.2 

6 

53 

05.07 

3 

41 

59.5 

93 

10 

10 

09 

04.2 

6 

53 

05.31 

3 

42 

24.5 

93 

20 

10 

08 

40.3 

6 

53 

05.86 

3 

42 

50.8 

93 

30 

10 

08 

10.8 

6 

53 

05 . 76 

3 

43 

16.5 

93 

40 

Lost 

3 

44 

42.0 

93 

50 

10 

07 

21.2 

6 

53 

05 . 06 

3 

45 

10.2 

94 

00 

10 

06 

54.5 

6 

53 

05.81 

Ther. 

74° 

= i — 

Ther.  80° 

Mean  of  11  observations,  64.  53 m.  05.45s. 


^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ rfu 


■ APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

June  26,  1846. — Fort  Leavenworth , JV\  W.  angle  of  square . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Ime. 

p.  ra. 

i 

Double  altitudes  of  a Oplii- 
ucbi,  near  the  meridian. 

atitude. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg. 

ruin. 

sec. 

29 

57.5 

94 

36 

40 

39 

21 

12 

31 

35.8 

94 

39 

20 

39 

21 

00 

Q O 
30 

00.0 

94 

40 

30 

39 

21 

12 

34 

14.0 

94 

41 

50 

39 

21 

07 

35 

47.9 

94 

42 

50 

39 

21 

11 

37 

20.0 

94 

43 

40 

39 

21 

08 

38 

51.2 

94 

44 

10 

39 

21 

06 

40 

19.7 

94 

44 

15 

39 

21 

05 

42 

05 . 0 

94 

43 

25 

39 

21 

20 

43 

35.5 

94 

42 

30 

39 

21 

27 

45 

03.8 

94 

41 

50 

39 

21 

18 

46 

19.0 

94 

40 

40 

39 

21 

18 

48 

10.0 

94 

38 

25 

39 

21 

27 

49 

25  .2 

94 

37 

10 

39 

21 

15... 

50 

UQ  ft 

Q4 

Pzt 

qn 

— 

-mm>  JL 

OC5 

52 

01.2 

94 

32 

15 

39 

21 

35  • 

53 

35.8 

.1 

94 

29 

10 

39 

21 

37 

Thermometer  64°. 


Mean  of  17  observations,  39°  21'  17 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


June  26,  1846. — Fort  Leavenworth. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p,  m. 

Double  altitude  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

. m. 

S. 

Deg;. 

min.  sec. 

Deg 

min . 

sec. 

58 

46.5 

76 

47 

45 

39 

21 

21 

00 

03.2 

76 

48 

40 

39 

21 

24 

01 

37.2 

76 

49 

50 

39 

21 

30 

02 

50.8 

76 

50 

20 

39 

21 

23 

03 

59.0 

76 

51 

20 

39 

21 

31 

05 

07.2 

, 76 

52 

10 

39 

21 

35 

06 

12.1 

' 76 

53 

05 

39 

21 

42 

07 

55.2 

76 

53 

40 

39 

21 

29 

09 

20.0 

76 

54 

50 

39 

21 

38 

10 

27.1 

76 

55 

35 

39 

21 

39 

11 

19.8 

76 

56 

05 

m 

39 

21 

37 

Barometer,  39.42  inches. 
“ 34.41  “ 


inermometer 

Mean  of  11  observations,  39°  2P  32". 


189 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

1 ' ' 

[Without  using  horizon  glass.] 

Ju?ie  26,  1846. — Fort  Leavenworth . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Oplii- 
uclii,  near  the  meridian. 

Latitude 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

5 

49 

39.8 

126 

23 

20 

f 39 

20 

01 

5 

51 

37.8 

126 

28 

40 

39 

20 

00 

5 

52 

20.2 

126 

32 

55 

39 

20 

19 

5 

54 

26 . 0 

126 

35 

05 

39 

20 

00 

5 

56 

40.,  7 

126 

38 

20 

39 

20 

48 

5 

58 

38.6 

126 

38 

40 

39 

21 

06 

6 

00 

57.0 

126 

40 

50 

39 

20 

44  • 

6 

02 

39.2 

126 

39 

55 

39 

21 

05 

6 

04 

05.4 

126 

38 

15 

39 

21 

36 

6 

06 

34.0 

126 

36 

45 

39 

21 

16 

6 

07 

55 . 1 

126 

34 

20 

39 

21 

55 

6 

09 

18.7 

126 

33 

05 

39 

21 

15 

6 

10 

21.2 

128 

29 

50 

39 

19 

45 

6 

11 

43.5 

126 

27 

20 

39 

- — - — 

16 

6 

X 3 

,23  a.  & \ 

ISO 

— so 

— 

, 

Thermometer  63  - 


Barometer,  39.42. 

34.41. 


Mean  of  15  observations,  39°  20'  37". 

Latitude  of  Fort. 

Deg.  m.  s. 


Latitude  by  16  observations  of  Polaris,  June  21 . . 39  21  30 

u a <<  Polaris,  June  26 . . 21  32 

u 17  “ a Ophiuchi,  June  26  21  17 

u 15  Li  a Ophiuchi,  June  26  20  37 


Mean 39  21  14 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


June  26,  1846. — Fort  Leavenworth . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

JLs  KJ  uuio  ciunuuv 

lit  IhO  1 « 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg*. 

min . 

sec. 

6 

21 

08.0 

117 

18 

45 

6 

22 

49.0 

117 

55 

10 

6 

25 

23.5 

118 

42 

15 

6 

27 

06.0 

119 

25 

50 

6 

28 

20.0 

119 

52 

10 

6 

31 

13.2 

120 

53 

50 

6 

32 

11.0 

121 

13 

00 

6 

33 

17.5 

121 

38 

25 

• 6 

34 

41.0 

122 

08 

05 

Barometer,  39.42. 

34.41. 


Thermometer  60°. 

So  mucn  e — , i imrc  no  confidence  in 

these  observations. 


191  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

June  27,  18-16. — Fort  Leavenworth, 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  a.  m. — 

21. 

June 

Double  altitudes,  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time, 

p.  m.- 
26. 

—June 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s 

* i 

Deg. 

min , 

k. 

m. 

S. 

h . 

m. 

s. 

3 

39 

19 

.0 

92 

00 

10 

32 

oi.  (y 

6 

52 

06.09 

o 

O 

39 

40 

.0  1 

92 

10 

10 

11 

41.2 

6 

52 

06.63 

3 

40 

04 

.8 

92 

20 

10 

11 

14. 21 

6 

52 

05.63 

3 

40 

32 

.0 

92 

30 

10 

10 

48.2 

6 

52 

06.13 

3 

40 

57 

.2 

92 

40 

10 

10 

22.5 

6 

52 

05 . 88 

3 

41 

22 

.8 

92 

50 

10 

09 

57.5 

6 

52 

06.18 

3 

41 

47 

.7 

93 

00 

10 

09 

30.2 

6 

52 

04.98  rej. 

3 

42 

16 

.0 

93 

10 

..  10 

09 

04.2 

6 

52 

06.15 

3 

42 

41 

.0 

93 

20 

10 

08 

40 . 3 

6 

52 

06.68 

3 

43 

07 

.8 

93 

30 

10 

08 

13.8 

6 

52 

06 . 83 

3 

43 

32 

.6 

93 

40 

1 nof 
iUin* 

3 

44 

00 

.0 

93 

50 

10 

07 

21.2 

0 

52 

06.63 

3 

44 

24 

.8 

94 

00 

10 

06 

54.5 

6 

52 

05.68 

Moan  of  11  observations.  6/L  52m.  CD 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
June  30,  1846. — Camp  JVo.  4. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  aliitude  of  a Ser- 
pentis,  near  the  meridian. 

Latitude 

• 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

m in 

. sec. 

Deg;. 

min . 

sec. 

3 

49 

20.8 

115 

59 

10 

38 

53 

54 

3 

50 

36.8 

116 

00 

10 

38 

54 

05 

3 

51 

41.7 

116 

01 

15 

38 

53 

59 

3 

52 

52.0 

116 

02 

05 

38 

53  ’ 

58 

3 

54 

01.0 

116 

02 

45 

38 

53 

53 

3 

55 

32.7 

116 

02 

55 

38 

53 

54 

3 

56 

55.8 

116 

02 

45 

38 

53 

55 

3 

58 

04.5 

116 

01 

40 

38 

54 

15 

3 

59 

4.8 

116 

01 

25 

38 

53 

50 

4 

00 

46.0 

116 

00 

00 

38 

54 

07 

4 

02 

3.1 

115 

58 

31 

38 

54 

10 

4 

03 

20.0 

115 

56 

50 

38 

54 

08 

4 

04 

33.0 

115 

53 

40 

38 

53 

45 

The  lour 
troublesome. 


<- 1 ^ i (Ulici 


Uuuidfui  • musquita.s  so  very 


Mean  of  13  observations,  38°  53'  59\ 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


June  305  1846. — -Camp  JSTo.  4. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time. 

p.  in. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

Deg 

mm. 

sec. 

4 

13 

42.0 

75 

35 

50 

38 

54 

00 

4 

15 

13.8 

75 

37 

30 

38 

54 

23 

4 

16 

36.0 

75 

38 

30 

38 

54 

33 

4 

-I? 

58.2 

75 

33 

05 

38 

54 

27 

4 

19 

27.7 

75 

39 

50 

38 

54 

27 

4 

20 

50.0 

75 

40 

00 

38 

54 

09 

4 

22 

2.8 

75 

40 

40 

38 

54 

08 

4 

23 

0.0 

75 

41 

25 

38 

54 

13 

4 

24 

34.2 

75 

42 

20 

38 

54 

16 

4 

26 

28.5 

75 

43 

15 

38 

54 

14 

4 

27 

48.7 

75 

43 

55 

38 

54 

10 

Thermometer,  67°. 

S v 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

Latitude  by  13  observations  of  Polaris,  38  54  18 

Latitude  by  13  observations  of  a Serpentis,  53  59 

Mean  «•••••  a « ® % * « ® a « ® « ® ® » ® ® ® » *««•««  >$8  54  08  lat.  of  camps 


* 13 


' V 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


June  30,  1846. — Camp  4. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time. 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

min.  sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

30 

19.1 

102 

54  10 

6 

54 

05.5 

3 

32 

16.0 

103 

37  55 

6 

54 

05.3 

3 

33 

51.0 

104 

13  30 

6 

54 

00.3  rej. 

3 

34 

54.2 

104 

38  05 

6 

54 

03.3 

3 

36 

21.5 

105 

09  55 

6 

54 

06.(7 

3 

37 

29.8 

105 

35  50 

6 

54 

05.0 

3 

38 

49.0 

106 

05  15 

6 

54 

06.4 

Thermometer,  68°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in.  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

4 

33 

00.0 

114 

07 

30 

6 

54 

12.9 

4 

34 

16.0 

113 

40 

40 

6 

54 

12.7 

4 

35 

28.7 

113 

15 

00 

6 

54 

12.3 

4 

36 

44.0 

112 

48 

30 

6 

54 

12.4  . 

4 

37 

49.0 

112 

24 

55 

6 

54 

11.0 

4 

39 

03.5 

111 

59 

20 

6 

54 

13.4 

4 

40 

18.7 

! • 111 

32 

30 

6 

54 

16.1  rej. 

4 

41 

47.0 

111 

01 

10 

6 

54 

14.0 

4 

42 

38.2 

110 

42 

20 

6 

54 

12.5 

4 

44 

34.0 

110 

00 

00 

6 

54 

10.2 

.4 

45 

48.5 

109 

33 

50 

6 

54 

12.1 

Thermometer,  66°. 


Chronometer  fast  by  6 obs.  of  east  star  ...» 
Chronometer  fast  by  10  obs.  of  west  star 


h.  771.  S . 

. . • . 6 54  05.30 

12.55 


« • • • © O » « o 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  4,  1846. — Camp  8,  Big  John  Spring . 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 


Double  altitude  of  sun/s 
upper  limb. 


Chronometer  fast. 


h. 

m. 

s 

Beg. 

min. 

h. 

m. 

s 

10 

33 

24 

2 

86 

10 

6 

58 

49 

7 

10 

33 

50 

8 

86 

00 

6 

58 

50 

6 

10 

34 

17 

0 

85 

50 

6 

58 

51 

0 

10 

34 

41 

8 

85 

40 

6 

58 

50 

3 

10 

35 

08 

2 

85 

30 

6 

58 

51 

1 

10 

35 

33 

7 

85 

20 

6 

58 

50 

9 

10 

35 

59 

0 

85 

10 

6 

58 

50 

6 

10 

36 

25 

8 

85 

00 

6 

58 

51 

7 

10 

36 

49 

2 

84 

50 

6 

58 

49 

4 

10 

37 

17 

0 

84 

40 

6 

58 

51 

6 

10 

37 

42 

0 

84 

30 

6 

58 

51 

0 

10 

38 

08 

5 

84 

20 

6 

58 

51 

8 

10 

38 

35 

2 

84 

10 

6 

58 

52 

9 

10 

38 

58 

7 

84 

00 

6 

58 

50a 

7 

Thermometer,  88°. 

Mean  of  14  observations,  6h.  58m.  50. 06s* 


I 


*[  7]  196 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  5 ? 1846 .—Camp  8,  Big  John  Spring. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a,  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilae 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

77?/, 

/ 

s. 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

10 

31 

28.0 

85 

48 

4.0 

6 

58 

4T.9 

10 

32 

30.8 

85 

28 

30 

6 

58 

50.8 

10 

33 

37.0 

85 

04 

20 

6 

58 

46,6 

10 

34 

57.9 

84 

36 

05 

6 

58 

47.4 

10 

36 

25.8 

84 

06 

35 

6 

58 

47.9 

10 

38 

06.2 

83 

31 

25 

6 

58 

46.8 

10 

39 

10.0 

83 

09 

35 

6 

58 

47.9 

10 

40 

09.7 

82 

48 

30 

6 

58 

47.0 

10 

41 

04.5 

82 

28 

40 

6 

58 

44.9  rej. 

10 

42 

03.2 

82 

08 

30 

6 

58 

46.0 

Mean  of  9 observations,  6h*  58 m.  47,505. 


& 


197 


m 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

t 

July  5j  1846.- — Camp  8,  Big  John  Spring. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h . 

m. 

S 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec . 

10 

03 

11 

0 

79 

24 

45 

38 

39 

50 

10 

04 

43 

8 

79 

25 

50 

38 

39 

55 

10 

06 

16 

7 

79 

26 

25 

38 

39 

44 

10 

07 

31 

0 

79 

27 

20 

38 

39 

52 

10 

09 

20 

0 

79 

28 

20 

38 

39 

53 

10 

11 

54 

0 

19 

29 

50 

38 

• 

39 

54 

Time,  a.  m. 

Double  altitude  of  Saturn, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

A.  m.  5. 

Deg.  min.  sec . 

Deg o min.  sec. 

10  16  59.0 

77  13  20 

38  38  43 

10  18  39.9 

77  12  55 

38  38  59 

10  19  46.2 

77  12  15 

38  39  16 

10  21  37.3 

77  11  56 

38  39  10 

10  22  52.0 

77  11  30 

38  39  05 

10  24  01.8 

77  10  35 

38  39  11 

10  25  29.2 

77  09  00 

38  39  10 

10  26  49.0 

77  08  05 

38  39  11 

Thermometer  75°/ 


. Latitude  of  camp. 

Deg.  min . sec . 

'I 

Latitude  by  6 observations  of  Polaris  . . . ....... . 38  39  51 

8 u u Saturn  ...........  06 


Mean  ....................  38  39  28 

===== 


hi 


[7] 


198 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued 


% 


July  5,  1846. — Camp  9,  Diamond  Spring. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

' 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

mm. 

mm 

sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

3 

53 

40.0 

74 

58 

35 

38 

36 

52 

3 

55 

03.2 

74 

59 

10 

38 

36 

48 

3 

56 

33.0 

75 

00 

15 

38 

36 

58 

3 

58 

06.5 

' 75 

00 

55 

38 

36 

54 

3 

59 

11.0 

75 

01 

40 

38 

36 

58 

4 

00 

05.0 

75 

02 

00 

38 

36 

54 

4 

01 

07.0 

75 

02 

35 

38 

36 

56 

4 

01 

59.0 

75 

03 

00 

38 

36 

54 

4 

03 

13.5 

75 

03 

35 

38 

36 

53 

4 

04 

35.7 

75 

04 

35 

38 

36 

57 

4 

10 

58.0 

75 

07 

25 

38 

36 

57 

4 

12 

00. G 

75 

08 

20 

38 

36 

49 

4 

13 

07.2 

75 

09 

25 

38 

36 

49 

4 

14 

56.0 

75 

09 

55 

38 

36 

50 

4 

15 

56.2 

75 

10 

40 

38 

36 

51 

Thermometer  72°. 


Mean  of  16  observations,  38°  26'  52". 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


July  5 5 1846. — Camp  95  Diamond  Spring . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyras 
m the  east. 

i Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m . 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

3 

26 

57.2 

106 

40 

45 

6 

59 

54.8 

3 

28 

49.8 

107 

21 

55 

6 

59 

58.4 

3 

29 

55.7 

107 

47 

20 

6 

59 

57.0 

3 

30 

45.0 

■ 108 

07 

25 

6 

59 

53.2 

3 

32 

32.0 

108 

47 

10 

6 

59 

54.9 

3 

33 

39.7 

109 

11 

55 

6 

59 

57.2 

3 

34 

38.2 

109 

32 

50 

6 

59 

60.4 

3 

35 

34.0 

109 

55 

40 

6 

59 

56.0 

3 

36 

31.5 

110 

17 

40 

6 

59 

55.4 

3 

37 

24.7 

110 

37 

40 

6 

59 

55.8 

3 

38 

47.5 

111 

9 

00 

6 

59 

55.9 

Thermometer  72°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 

Chronometer  fast. 

in 

the  west. 

h. 

m. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m> . 

s. 

4 

20 

57.0 

113 

44 

20 

6 

59 

60.8 

4 

22 

02.0 

113 

21 

15 

6 

59 

60.9 

4 

23 

07.8 

112 

52 

35 

6 

59 

60.2 

4 

24 

16.0 

112 

oo 

15 

6 

59 

60.2 

4 

25 

20.8 

112 

10 

00 

6 

59 

60.0 

4 

26 

09.7 

111 

52 

35 

6 

59 

60.4 

4 

27 

10.7 

111 

30 

25 

6 

59 

59.5 

4 

28 

11.0 

111 

08 

30 

6 

59 

58.9 

4 

29 

33.8 

110 

38 

55 

6 

59 

59.8 

Thermometer  71°. 

h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  11  observations  of  east  star  6 59  56.27 

u 9 u west  star  60.08 


6 59  58.18 


Mean 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


July  6,  1846. — Camp  10,  Cottonwood  Grove. 

\ - / 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p 

-?r  '~r .r  1 ■- — —■ 

. m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  east 

a Lyrse, 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

Deo*. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

05 

32.8 

122 

05 

00 

7 

01 

54.0 

4 

06 

40.0 

122 

31 

55 

7 

01 

57.0 

4 

07 

59.5 

123 

01 

10 

7 

01 

54.3 

4 

09 

07,0 

123 

27 

55 

7 

01 

52.0 

4 

10 

21.8 

123 

56 

55 

7 

01 

51.1 

4 

11 

45.8 

124 

28 

15 

7 

01 

53.7 

4 

13 

04.5 

124 

59 

20 

7 

01 

51.5 

4 

14 

24.0 

125 

29 

50 

7 



01 

51.7 

Time,  p 

. m . 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

•S'. 

Deg. 

min 

i 

sec. 

h. 

m . 

s. 

4 

19 

30.0 

113 

37 

55 

7 

01 

56.5 

4 

20 

52.8 

113 

07 

50 

7 

01 

54.9 

4 

22 

43.2 

112 

28 

15 

7 

01 

54.8 

4 

24 

04.3 

111 

59 

15 

7 

01 

55.2 

4 

25 

25.2 

111 

30 

35 

7 

01 

56.6 

4 

27 

26.5 

110 

45 

50 

7 

01 

54.1 

4 

29 

40.0 

109 

57 

55 

7 

01 

55.8 

4 

32 

42.8 

108 

51 

10 

7 

01 

55 .5 

4 

34 

54.0 

108 

13 

40 

7 

01 

57.1 

4 

35 

46.2 

107 

44 

15 

7 

01 

56.6 

4 

38 

05.8 

106 

52 

55 

ry 

i 

01 

55.8 

4 

39 

14.0 

106 

26 

55 

7 

01 

54.6 

Thermometer  72°. 


h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  8 observations  of  east  star  7 01  52.44 

11  12  u west  star  55.62 


APPENDIX  No.  5 —Continued. 

July  6,  1846. — Camp  10,  Cottonwood,  Grove. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

k. 

m . 

s. 

Deg. 

min.  sec. 

Deg 

. min 

. sec. 

4 

49 

21.0 

75 

17 

45 

38 

29 

44 

4 

53 

05.0 

♦75 

19 

35 

38 

29 

25 

4 

54 

07.0 

75 

20 

35 

38 

29 

35 

4 

55 

36.2 

75 

21 

35 

38 

29 

35 

4 

56 

58.3 

75 

22 

10 

38 

29 

25 

4 

58 

07.0 

75 

22 

35 

38 

29 

12 

4 

59 

31.0 

75 

23 

50 

38 

29 

26 

5 

01 

14.7 

75 

25 

20 

38 

29 

35 

5 

02 

28.7 

75 

26 

10 

38 

29 

38 

5 

03 

46 . 0 

75 

27 

05 

38 

29 

37 

Thermometer,  71°. 


July  7,  184 6. — Camp  10. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

i 

h.  m s. 

Deg . min.  sec . 

Deg.  min.  sec . 

4 16  45.0 

74  59  45 

38  29  31 

4 19  27.5 

75  01  05 

38  29  22 

4 20  16.0 

75  01  40 

38  29  27 

Thermometer  68°. 


Deg.  min.  sec . 

Latitude  by  10  obs.  of  Polaris,  July  6 ........... . 38  29  31 

Latitude  by  3 obs.  of  Polaris,  July  7.  ........... . 27 


Mean  of  13  observations 


» 0 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 


38  29  30 


202 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


July  7,  1846. — Camp  10,  Cottonwood  Grove. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

h. 

771. 

s. 

4 

01 

24.2 

95 

50 

7 

01 

50.3 

4 

01 

50.4 

96 

00 

7 

01 

50.7 

4 

02 

16.3 

96 

10 

7 

01 

50.8 

4 

02 

41.8 

96 

20 

7 

01 

50.4 

4 

03 

07.0 

96 

30 

7 

01 

49.8 

4 

03 

58.8 

96 

50 

7 

01 

49.9 

4 

04 

50.8 

97 

10 

7 

01 

50.3 

4 

05 

17.0 

97 

20 

7 

01 

50.5 

4 

05 

42.7 

97 

30 

7 

01 

50.4 

4 

06 

08.7 

97 

40 

7 

01 

50.5 

4 

06 

34.0 

97 

50 

7 

01 

49.9 

4 

06 

59.6 

98 

00 

7 

01 

49.6 

9 

Thermometer,  88°. 


Mean  of  12  observations,  Ih.  04m.  50.265. 


203 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  7,  1846. — Camp  10,  Cottonvjood,  Grove . 


m 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  rn . 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Chronometer  fast. 

4. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min , 

4. 

m. 

s 

10 

17 

49.0 

93 

20 

7 

01 

54 

0 

10 

18 

14.5 

93 

10 

7 

01 

53 

6 

10 

18 

38.8 

93 

00 

7 

01 

52 

4 

10 

19 

05.1 

92 

50 

7 

01 

52 

8 

10 

19 

31.0 

QO 

40 

7 

01 

53 

1 

10 

19 

57.0 

92 

30 

7 

04 

53 

4 

10 

20 

47.5 

92 

10 

7 

01 

52 

4 

10 

21 

13.5 

92 

00 

7 

01 

52 

7 

10 

21 

39.2 

91 

50 

7 

01 

52 

7 

10 

22 

08.0 

91 

40 

7 

01 

52 

8 

10 

22 

30.0 

91 

30 

7 

01 

52 

1 

10 

22 

56.5 

91 

20 

7 

01 

52 

9 

10 

23 

21.8 

91 

10 

7 

01 

52 

5 

10 

23 

48 . 0 

91 

00 

7 

01 

53 

0 

Thermometer,  90°. 


Mean  of  14  observations,  7 4.  01m.  53.106-. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

4.  m. 

Deg. 

. 

min . sec . 

4. 

m. 

s. 

4 04 

16 . 8 

117 

33 

55 

7 

01 

50.4 

4 05 

24.5 

117 

11 

5 

7 

01 

52.4 

4 06 

46.0 

116 

42 

20 

7 

01 

51.2 

4 07 

32.0 

116 

26 

40 

7 

01 

52.5 

4 09 

54.0 

115 

36 

55 

7 

01 

52.7 

Mean  of  5 observations,  74.  01  m.  51. 84s. 


[ 7 ] 204 

APPENDIX  No.  5-— Continued. 


July  11,  1846. — Camp  14,  Bend  of  Arkansas. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Doable  altitudes  of  a Ly- 
ras in  the  east. 

^ - 

Chronometer  fast. 

1 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

26 

08.0 

112 

31 

05 

7 

07 

01.8 

3 

27 

04.0 

112 

52 

20 

7 

07 

02.0 

3 

28 

05.8 

113 

15 

10 

7 

07 

03.8 

3 

29 

04.7 

113 

38 

10 

7 

07 

02.3 

3 

30 

34.0 

114 

13 

10 

7 

06 

59.7  rej. 

3 

31 

35.2 

114 

35 

05 

7 

07 

03.4 

3 

32 

41.0 

114 

59 

50 

7 

07 

04.2 

3 

34 

12.0 

115 

35 

10 

7 

07 

02.8 

3 

35 

03.2 

115 

54 

40 

7 

07 

02.9 

3 

36 

01.2 

116 

16 

40 

7 

07 

03.2 

3 

37 

02.0 

1 16 

40 

15 

7 

07 

02.1 

3 

38 

06.2 

117 

05 

10 

7 

06 

59.4  rej. 

Time, 

/ 

[>.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Areturus 
in  the  west . 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

h. 

rn. 

5. 

3 

41 

09.1 

121 

59 

55 

7 

07 

05.0 

3 

42 

10.7 

121 

39 

20 

7 

07 

04.8 

3 

43 

37.5 

121 

10 

25 

7 

07 

05.5 

3 

44 

41.8 

120 

48 

40 

7 

07 

05.4 

3 

45 

38.0 

120 

29 

30 

7 

07 

04.9 

3 

47 

01.0 

120 

01 

25 

7 

07 

05.2 

3 

47 

58.8 

119 

41 

15 

7 

07 

04.0 

3 

49 

01.8 

119 

19 

40 

7 

07 

02.9 

3 

50 

05.5 

118 

57 

30 

7 

07 

03.0 

3 

51 

02.2 

118 

38 

10 

7 

07 

03.7 

3 

52 

00.3 

118 

18 

10 

7 

07 

03.9 

3 

53 

01.5 

! . ii7 

57 

15 

7 

L___ 

07 

04.7 

Thermometer,  71°. 


h . m.  s. 


Chronometer  fast  by  10  obs.  of  east  star 7 07,  02.85 

Chronometer  fast  by  12  obs.  of  west  star  .........  04.42 

Mean  7 07  03.64 


205  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continue!. 

July  11,  1846. — Camp  14,  Band  of  Arkansas. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

% 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitud 

e. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg.  min . 

sec . 

4 

16 

18.0 

74 

48 

40 

38 

21 

02 

4 

17 

27.8 

74 

49 

55 

38 

21 

19 

4 

18 

52.5 

74 

50 

30 

38 

21 

09 

4 

20 

33.0 

74 

51 

25 

38 

21 

05 

4 

21 

26'.  1 

74 

52 

10 

38 

21 

11 

4 

22 

30.5 

74 

52 

40 

38 

21 

07 

4 

23 

55.5 

74 

53 

30 

38' 

21 

05 

4 

24 

56.2 

74 

54 

40 

38 

21 

21 

4 

25 

45.0 

74 

55 

10 

38 

21 

21 

4 

26 

24.2 

74 

55 

40 

38 

21 

24 

4 

27 

35.1 

74 

56 

00 

38 

21 

12 

4 

28 

53.0 

' 74 

57 

20 

38 

21 

27 

4 

30 

07.5 

74 

57 

55 

38 

21 

21 

4 

31 

24.2 

74 

59 

05 

38 

21 

31 

4 

33 

57.0 

74 

59 

55 

38 

21 

10 

4 

34 

52.2 

75 

01 

05 

38 

21 

25 

4 

36 

20.5 

75 

01 

50 

38 

21 

19 

4 

37 

01.0 

75 

02 

20 

,38 

21 

24 

4 

37 

45 . 1 

75 

02 

45 

38 

21 

19 

4 

39 

00.0 

75 

03 

20 

38 

21 

10 

Thermometer  71°. 


Mean  of  20  observations,  38°  21'  16". 


m 


20S 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  11,  1846. — Camp  14,  Bend  of  Arkansas . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Ophiu- 
chi,  near  the  meridian. 

> 

Latitude 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg . min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

44 

10.7 

126 

45 

25 

38 

20 

48 

4 

46 

13.1 

126 

58 

40 

38 

20 

27 

4 

48 

04.5 

127 

ir 

00 

39 

20 

32 

4 

50 

14.7 

127 

23 

20 

38 

21 

02 

4 

51 

54.8 

127 

33 

00 

38 

21 

01 

4 

53 

50.8 

127 

43 

10 

38 

21 

06 

4 

56 

01.0 

127 

53 

40 

38 

21 

08 

5 

00 

44.0 

128 

12 

30 

38 

21 

21 

5 

02 

12.8 

128 

17 

25 

38 

21 

34 

5 

03 

58.2 

128 

23 

15 

38 

21 

16 

5 

05 

13.0 

128 

26 

50 

38 

20 

58 

5 

06 

41.5 

128 

30 

00 

38 

21 

06 

5 

08 

; 21.7 

128 

33 

25 

38 

21 

03 

5 

09 

29.5 

128 

35 

40 

38 

20 

51 

5 

10 

39.6 

128 

37 

10 

38 

20 

54 

5 

12 

17.0 

128 

38 

10 

38 

21 

12 

5 

13 

17.5 

128 

38 

55 

38 

21 

16 

5 

14 

45.0 

128 

39- 

45 

38 

21 

15 

5 

16 

07.0 

128 

39 

20 

38 

21 

21 

5 

18 

10.2 

128 

38 

55 

38 

21 

27 

5 

19 

15.7 

128 

37 

40 

38 

21 

46 

5 

20 

21.0 

128 

36 

30 

38 

20 

52 

5 

21 

17.0 

128 

35 

50 

38 

20 

42 

5 

22 

40.2 

128 

33 

10 

; 38 

21 

05 

5 

24 

12.1 

128 

31 

45 

38 

21 

29 

5 

25 

24.5 

128 

28 

50 

38 

21 

44 

5 

26 

29.7 

128 

27 

00 

38 

21 

24 

5 

27 

34.6 

128 

24 

40 

38 

21 

• 

12 

Thermometer  71°. 


Latitude  of  camp. 

* _ Beg , min.  sec . 

Latitude  by  28  observations  of  a Ophiuchi . . . . . . 38  21  18 

“ 20  “ Polaris 16 


♦ ® e « * 9 * » o ® ® $ 


9 ® e © 


38  21  17 


207 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


[7] 


July  13,  1846. — Camp  16,  Pawnee  Fork. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Lyrsd, 

Chronometer  fast. 

in  the  east. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

26 

32.1 

114 

44 

50 

7 

09 

12.9 

3 

27 

51.3 

115 

15 

40 

7 

09 

11.5 

3 

28 

56.2 

115 

40 

15 

7 

09 

11.9 

3 

29 

54.0 

116 

02 

05 

7 

09 

12.7 

3 

31 

22.0 

116 

36 

15 

7 

09 

10.3 

3 

32 

41.7 

117 

05 

50  ' 

7 

09 

13.8 

3 

33 

54.9 

117 

34 

20 

7 

09 

12.6 

3 

34 

55.6 

117 

57 

30 

7 

09 

12.7 

3 

36 

00.0 

118 

22 

45 

7 

09 

11.2 

Thermometer  72°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

5“. 

3 

44 

26.2 

119 

06 

55 

7 

09 

12.1 

o 

O 

45 

39.5 

118 

41 

15 

7 

09 

11.5 

3 

46 

44.0 

118 

19 

20 

7 

09 

12.9 

3 

47 

55.7 

117 

54 

15 

7 

09 

12.8 

3 

49 

09.0 

117 

28 

10 

7 

09 

11.5 

3 

50 

19.7 

117 

14 

00 

7 

09 

13.4 

3 

52 

44.9 

1 116 

12 

50 

7 

09 

13.4 

3 

54 

24.0 

i 115 

37 

45 

7 

09 

13.5 

3 

55 

40.9 

115 

10 

20 

7 

09 

13.4 

Thermometer  71°. 

, h.  m . s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 observations  of  east  star  7 09  12.18 

9 u west  star  12.74 


Meant 


® 0 ® S ® 


7 09  12.46 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


July  13 , 1846. — Camp  16,  Pawnee  Fork . 


Time. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

Beg. 

min. 

sec . 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

24 

21.0 

74 

35 

30 

38 

10 

10 

4 

25 

35.9 

74 

36 

10 

38 

10 

06 

4 

26 

38.4 

74 

38 

50 

38 

10 

06 

4 

27 

25.8 

74 

37 

20 

38 

10 

04 

4 

28 

35.2 

74 

38 

5 

38 

10 

06 

4 

29 

20.8 

74 

38 

40 

38 

10 

09 

4 

30 

14.6 

74 

39 

15 

38 

10 

09 

4 

31 

16.0 

74 

39 

50 

38 

10 

08 

4 

32 

06 . 0 

74 

40 

30 

38 

10 

13 

4 

32 

43.0 

74 

41 

00 

38 

10 

13 

4 

34 

06.8 

74 

41 

55  - 

38 

10 

17 

4 

34 

54.2 

74 

42 

40 

38 

10 

20 

4 

35 

35 .0 

74 

43 

15 

38 

mm 

10 

24 

Thermometer  70°. 


July  14,  1846.- — Camp  16,  Pawnee  Fork. 


Time. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

sec . 

Beg.  min.  sec. 

4 

39 

43.5 

74 

47 

55 

38  10  05 

4 

41 

00.0 

74 

48 

55 

38  10  07 

4 

42 

05.8 

74 

49 

50 

38  10  11 

4 

43 

12.2 

74 

50 

30 

38  10  08 

4 

43 

56.5 

74 

51 

30 

38  10  23 

Latitude  of  camp. 


Beg.  min.  sec. 

Latitude,  by  5 observations,  July  14 38  10  10 

“ 13  “ July  13 . 16 


Mean 


e © © ® « 


. 38  10  11 


o 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

' • ' . if'  ‘ \ 

July  14 , 1846. — Camp  16,  Pawnee  Fork . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time. 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Ly- 
ras in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

32 

15.8 

118 

28 

15 

7 

09 

08.5 

3 

33 

39.4 

119 

00 

25 

7 

09 

08.5 

3 

34 

34.0 

119 

21 

50 

7 

09 

07.0 

3 

35 

33.0 

119 

44 

25 

7 

09 

07.1 

3 

36 

28.8 

120 

04 

20 

7 

09 

11.0  rej. 

3 

37 

37.0 

120 

32 

40 

7 

09 

05.4  rej. 

3 

38 

49.3 

120 

59 

28 

7 

09 

08 . 0 

3 

39 

47.0 

121 

21 

20 

7 

09 

08 . 6 

3 

41 

07.2 

121 

52 

05 

7 

09 

08.8 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arc* 
turns  in  the  west. 

Chronom 

eter  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

Beg. 

min . sec . 

h. 

m. 

S. 

4 

20 

02.3 

104 

47 

45 

7 

09 

11.8 

4 

21 

03.8 

104 

23 

55 

7 

09 

09.8 

4 

21 

50.8 

104 

06 

20 

7 

09 

09.9 

4 

22 

31.6 

103 

50 

55 

7 

09 

09.7 

4 

23 

41.0 

103 

25 

30 

7 

09 

11.5 

4 

24 

55 . 0 

102 

57 

15 

7 

09 

07.6  rej. 

4 

25 

58.7 

102 

33 

30 

7 

09 

11.2 

4 

26 

57.5 

102 

11 

50 

7 

09 

11.1 

4 

28 

03.0 

101 

45 

20 

7 

09 

10.1 

Thermometer  71°. 


h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  east  star 7 09  08.04 

Chronometer  fast  by  8 obs.  of  west  star  ....  ......  10.84 

Mean 7 09  09.44 


14 


[ 7 ] 210 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  19,  1846. — Camp  20,  Jackson  Grove. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

3.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arc- 
turus  in  the  west . 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

* 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

26 

44.5 

118 

20 

50 

7 

11 

38.9 

3 

28 

02.5 

117 

52 

50 

7 

11 

36.1 

3 

29 

15.2 

117 

27 

35 

7 

11 

38.8 

3 

30 

13.8 

117 

06 

15 

7 

11 

38.0 

3 

31 

24.0 

116 

41 

15 

7 

11 

38,7 

3 

32 

16.5 

116 

23 

30 

7 

11 

41.7 

3 

33 

11.0 

116 

03 

30 

7 

11 

40.5 

3 

34 

05.0 

115 

43 

35 

7 

11 

33 . 6 rej . 

3 

35 

05.7 

115 

22 

10 

7 

11 

40.5 

3 

35 

55.5 

115 

03 

45 

7 

11 

39.2 

3 

36 

43.0 

114 

46 

25 

■ 7 

11 

38.8 

3 

37 

41.0 

114 

25 

50 

7 

11 

40.2 

Thermometer  72°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyree 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fas 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg.  min . sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

13 

28.8 

117  37  30 

7 

11 

38.2 

3 

14 

37.0 

118  13  10 

7 

11 

39.6 

3 

15 

26.0 

118  22  10 

7 

11 

36.3 

3 

16 

30.8 

118  37  40 

7 

11 

37.5 

3 

17 

45.0 

119  15  40 

7 

11 

39.0 

3 

18 

44.9 

119  38  55 

7 

11 

38.4 

3 

19 

54.5 

120  06  00 

7 

11 

37.7 

3 

21 

00.0 

120  30  20 

7 

11 

38.1 

Thermometer  72°. 


h.  min.  see. 


Chronometer  fast  by  11  obs.  of  west  star  . 7 11  39.22 

Chronometer  fast  by  8 obs.  of  east  star..... 38.35 

• i t 

Mean.... 7 11  38.78 


211 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
July  19,  1846. — Camp  20,  Jackson  Grove. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

,,  v ,T 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 
laris. 

of  Po- 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deo; 

. min . 

sec. 

Deer. 

min . 

sec . 

3 

43 

52.0 

73 

26 

30 

37 

41 

53 

3 

45 

01.3 

73 

27 

10 

37 

41 

52 

3 

46 

12.5 

73 

27 

55 

37 

41 

35 

3 

47 

05.5 

73 

29 

00 

37 

41 

51 

3 

48 

06.3 

73 

29 

40 

37 

41 

56 

3 

49 

00.0 

73 

30 

00 

37 

41 

46 

3 

50 

04.0 

73 

30 

30 

37 

41 

41 

3 

50 

43 . 8 

73 

31 

00 

37 

41 

45 

3 

52 

01.0 

73 

31 

35 

37 

41 

39 

3 

53 

05.0 

73 

32 

00 

37 

41 

33 

3 

•54 

00.0 

73 

32 

40 

37 

41 

33 

3 

56 

12.8 

73 

eJO 

40 

37 

41 

23 

3 

56 

52.5 

73 

34 

20 

37 

41 

30 

3 

57 

31.7 

73 

35 

00 

37 

41 

38 

3 

58 

16.8 

73 

35 

40 

O l 

41 

44 

Thermometer  72°. 


Mean  of  15  observations,  57°  41'  41''. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


July  19,  1846.— Camp  20,  Jackson  Grove . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Her- 
culis, near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

$. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg.  min. 

sec. 

4 

18 

25.5 

133 

31 

35 

37 

41 

41 

4 

20 

04.8 

333 

35 

50 

37 

41 

56 

4 

22 

52.5 

133 

41 

40 

37 

41 

26 

4 

24 

15.8 

133 

44 

00 

37 

41 

15 

4 

25 

46.6 

133 

45 

45 

37 

41 

10 

4 

27 

38.5 

133 

46 

30 

37 

41 

21 

4 

28 

59.7 

133 

46 

30 

37 

41 

29 

4 

30 

10.0 

133 

46 

20 

37 

41 

29 

4 

31 

23.9 

133 

45 

40 

37 

41 

33 

4 

32 

12.2 

133 

45 

00 

37 

41 

36 

4 

33 

19.7 

133 

43 

40 

37 

41 

45 

4 

35 

13.0 

133 

41 

15 

37 

41 

46 

4 

36 

10.5 

133 

39 

20 

37 

41 

51 

4 

37 

06.0 

133 

38 

20 

| 37 

41 

28 

4 

38 

18.4  . 

133 

34 

40 

37 

41 

58 

Latitude  by  15  obs.  of  Polaris.  ... 
Latitude  by  15  obs.  of  a Herculis  . 


Deg.  min.  sec. 

87  41  41 

35 


Mean 


37  41  38  lat.  of  camp 


213 


m 

® APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  19,  1846, — Camp  20,  Jackson  Grove , Arkansas . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time. 

Double  altitude  of  the  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

i 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

10 

34 

23.6 

89 

30 

7 

11 

38.2 

10 

34 

50.2 

89 

20 

7 

11 

39.3 

10 

35 

15.8 

89 

10 

7 

11 

39.4 

10 

35 

42.0 

89 

00 

7 

11 

40.1 

10 

36 

07.0 

88 

. 50 

7 

11 

39.7 

10 

36 

32.3 

88 

40 

7 

11 

39.5 

10 

36 

57.0 

88 

30 

7 

11 

39.7 

10 

37 

23.8 

88 

20 

7 

11 

40.1 

. 10 

37 

48.0 

OQ 

CO 

10 

7 

11 

38.7 

10 

38 

14.2 

88 

00 

7 

11 

39.4 

10 

38 

39.7 

87 

50 

7 

11 

39.5 

10 

39 

04.8 

87 

40 

7 

11 

39.2 

10 

39 

30.3 

87 

30 

7 

11 

39.3  ' 

10 

39 

54.7 

87 

20 

7 

11 

38.3 

10 

40 

21.8 

87 

10 

7 

11 

39.8 

10 

40 

47.8 

87 

00 

7 

11 

40.5 

Thermometer  88°. 


Mean  of  16  observations,  7 h.  11  m.  39. 36s. 


DETERMINATION  OF  INDEX  ERROR. 


Min.  sec . 

On  the  arc 31  20 

Off  the  arc  31  40 

Index  error  — -f  10". 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  22j  1846. — Camp  237  Arkansas  river. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
a Aquilse. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m.  s. 

Beg.  min.  sec. 

• 

h.  m.  .s. 

4 27  17.2 

90  30  10 

7 15  38.9 

4 28  39.6 

90  57  40 

7 15  39.1 

4 29  36.5 

91  17  30 

7 15  37.2 

4 30  35.3 

91  37  10 

7 15  37.3 

4 31  32  2 

91  54  15 

7 15  43.0  rej. 

4 32  34.8 

92  15  55 

7 15  40.3 

4 33  46.7 

92  . 40  20 

7 15  38.7 

Thermometer  68°. 

f - . ‘ • 

Time,  p,  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus, 

Chronometer  fast. 

in  the  west. 

h.  m.  s. 

Beg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

4 37  33.7 

88  34  30 

7 15  39.3 

4 38  20.0 

88  16  20 

7 15  39.1 

4 39  17.5 

87  54  20 

7 15  40.3 

4 40  43.8 

87  20  40 

7 15  40.5 

4 41  30.7 

87  01  50 

7 15  39.1 

4 42  19.1 

86  43  10 

7 15.  39.8 

4 43  30.8 

86  15  50 

7 15  41.7 

Thermometer  68°. 

h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  6 observations  east  star...,  7 15  38.58 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 observations  west  star  ...  39.97 


7 15  39.28 


Mean 


I 


215 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
July  22 , 1846. — Camp  23. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


< Time, 

3.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

' 6‘. 

Deg;. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg 

min. 

sec 

4 

49 

32.5 

74 

47 

10 

37 

57 

20 

4 

50 

37.0 

74 

48 

10 

37 

57 

33 

4 

51 

26.8 

74 

48 

50 

37 

57 

34 

4 

52 

01.8 

74 

49 

20 

37 

57 

37 

4 

52 

46.0 

74 

49 

55 

37 

57 

40 

4 

53 

37.3 

74' 

50 

44 

37 

57 

42 

.4 

54 

34.9 

74 

51 

20 

37 

57 

41 

4 

55 

16.8 

74 

52 

00 

37 

57 

45 

4 

56 

34.0 

74 

52 

45 

37 

57 

39 

4 

57 

16.0 

74 

53 

15 

37 

57 

40 

4 

57 

57.5 

74 

54 

00 

37 

57 

47 

Thermometer  68°. 

Mean  of  11  observations,  37°  57'  39". 


I 


[ 7 ] 216 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued.  ' 
July  25,  1846. — Camp  26,  Arkansas  river. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec. 

3 

37 

02.7 

74 

10 

30 

38 

01 

01 

3 

38 

16.5 

74 

11 

10 

38 

00 

58 

3 

39 

16.5 

74 

11 

50 

38 

00 

56 

3 

39 

51.5 

74 

12 

30 

38 

01 

07 

3 

40 

35.0 

74 

13 

10 

38 

01 

14 

3 

42 

17.2 

74 

13 

50 

38 

01 

04 

3 

43 

08.2 

74 

14 

50 

38 

01 

18 

3 

44 

20.8 

74 

15 

15  • 

38 

‘ 01 

07 

3 

45 

08.5 

74 

15 

40 

38 

01 

05 

3 

45 

52.0 

74 

16 

20 

38 

01 

11 

3 

46 

27.5 

74 

16 

55 

38 

01 

17 

3 

47 

14.8 

74 

17 

10 

38 

01 

10 

3 

47 

55.2 

74 

17 

30 

38 

01 

07 

3 

48 

06.1 

74 

17 

55 

38 

01 

08 

3 

50 

27.8 

74 

19 

30 

38 

01 

18 

Thermometer  78°. 


Mean  of  15  observations,  38°  01'  OS". 


217  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  25,  1846.- — Camp  26,  on  the  Arkansas. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


1 

Time, 

p . m . 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

. min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

54 

48.2 

102 

04 

05 

7 

19 

46.2 

3 

56 

33.8 

101 

24 

50 

7 

19 

48.5 

3 

58 

09.7 

100 

47 

50 

7 

19 

47.0 

3 

59 

13.7 

100 

23 

25 

7 

19 

46 . 9 

4 

00 

17.8 

99 

59 

20 

fry 

19 

47.9 

4 

01 

28.6 

99 

31 

40 

7 

19 

46.4 

4 

02 

27.7 

99 

08 

55 

7 

19 

45.8 

4 

03 

30.0 

98 

45 

40 

7 

19 

47.4 

4 

!_ 

04 

33.5 

98 

20 

20 

7 

19 

44.8  rej. 

Thermometer  77°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a 
Aquilte  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

11 

05.8 

87 

32 

30 

7 

19 

46 . 9 

4 

12 

20.7 

87 

58 

20 

7 

19 

46.7 

4 

13 

14.5 

88 

16 

20 

7 

19 

48.0 

4 

14 

46.7 

88 

47 

55 

7 

19 

47.8 

4 

15 

43.0 

89 

06 

20 

7 

19 

50.0 

4 

16 

34.6 

89 

24 

40 

7 

19 

48.7 

4 

17 

32.5 

89 

44 

50 

7 

19 

46.2 

4 

18 

34.0 

90 

04 

50 

7 

19 

48.4 

4 

19 

47.8 

90 

30 

10 

ry 

i 

19 

47.0 

4 

• 20 

32.2 

90 

• 

53 

15 

7 

19 

52.5  rej. 

Thermometer  77°. 

h.  min.  sec. 


Chronometer  fast  by  8 obs.  of  west  star  7 19  47.01 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  west  star  47.78 

♦ —————  — — — — 
Mean 7 19  47.40 


APPENDIX-  No.  5— Continued. 


July  29,  1846 — Camp  30,  near  Bent1  s -Fort . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time^ 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arc- 
turus  in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

k. 

m. 

Deg 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

20 

28.0 

88 

19 

10 

7 

25 

31.6 

4 

21 

57.7 

87 

44 

30 

7 

25 

32.4 

4 

22 

59.0 

87 

20 

25 

7 

25 

31.9 

4 

24 

02.0 

86 

56 

00 

7 

25 

32.4 

4 

25 

09.8 

86 

29 

30 

7 

25 

32.4 

4 

25 

57.5 

86 

10 

50 

7 

25 

32.3 

4 

26 

59.2 

85 

46 

43 

7 

25 

32.3 

4 

28 

04.7 

, 85 

20 

05 

7 

25 

29.7 

4 

28 

56.5 

84 

59 

40 

7 

25 

29.4 

4 

30 

01.0 

84 

35 

10 

7 

25 

31.2 

4 

31 

01.5 

84 

11 

50 

V" 

7 

25 

32.2 

Time,  p 

. m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aqui- 
lae  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S . 

Bey;. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

4 

34 

06.8 

98 

20 

30 

7 

25 

32.3 

4 

35 

39.8 

98 

48 

50 

7 

25 

33.6 

4 

36 

50.1 

99 

10 

20 

7 

25 

33.8 

4 

37 

48.6 

99 

28 

30 

7 

25 

33.9 

4 

39 

17.0 

99 

55 

30 

7 

25 

33.2 

4 

40 

44.0 

100 

21 

20 

7, 

25 

35 . 0 

4 

41 

58.0 

100 

44 

20 

7 

25 

32.6 

4 

43 

28.8 

101 

12 

10 

7 

25 

30.0 

4 

44 

24.5 

101 

26 

55 

7 

25 

35.9 

4 

45 

35.0 

101 

48 

40 

7 

25 

32.6 

4 

46 

57.7 

102 

13 

20 

• 

7 

25 

31.4 

! * 

Thermometer  66° 

h.  m.  s. 


Chronometer  fast  by  11  observations  of  west  star..  7 25  31.62 

u 12  u east  star...  32.12 

Mean  7 25  32.37 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


July  30,  1846. — -Camp  30,  near  Bentfs  Fort. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west. 

- 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

• 

s. 

V, 

Deg.  min. 

sec.  . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

33 

05.8 

104 

59 

30 

7 

25 

32.1 

3 

34 

37.0 

104 

24 

50 

7 

25 

30.1 

3 

35 

32.5 

104 

04 

05 

7 

25 

31.6 

3 

37 

00.8 

103 

30 

55 

7 

25 

31.9 

3 

38 

00.0 

103 

08 

30 

7 

25 

31.8 

3 

39 

08.5 

102 

42 

30 

7 

25 

31.4 

3 

40 

06.2 

102 

20 

50 

7 

25 

31.9 

3 

41 

00.0 

102 

00  ■ 

20 

7 

25 

31.6 

3 

42 

12.5 

101 

32 

30 

7 

25 

29.7 

Thermometer  74°. 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Aquilse 

Chronometer  fast. 

in 

the  east 

■ 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

. min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

46 

06.8 

83 

40 

2b 

7 

25 

29.4  • 

3 

47 

23.0 

84 

07 

00 

7 

25 

30.1 

3 

49 

03.5 

84 

41 

50 

7 

25 

31.3 

3 

50 

02.5 

85 

03 

20 

7 

25 

29.0 

3 

50 

56.0 

85 

21 

10 

7 

25 

31.3 

3 

51 

48.1 

85 

40 

00 

7 

25 

29.2 

3 

52 

46.5 

86 

00 

10 

7 

25 

33.5 

3 

53 

35.7 

86 

16 

30 

7 

25 

32.1 

3 

54 

46.0 

86 

42 

10 

7 

25 

28.2 

Thermometer  74°. 

\ . h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  west  star 7 25  31.46 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  east  star 30.44 

Mean 7 25  30.95 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


July  30,  1846. — Camp  30,  near  BenCs  Fort. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

• 

Deg. 

• 

min. 

sec. 

4 

01 

31.0 

74 

38 

55 

38 

02 

47 

4 

03 

07.8 

74 

39 

55 

38 

03 

03 

4 

04 

23.0 

74 

41 

15 

38 

03 

06 

4 

05 

17.1 

74 

41 

50 

38 

02 

54 

4 

06 

17.0 

74 

42 

30 

38 

02 

52 

4 

07 

15.2 

74 

43 

00 

38 

02 

46 

4 

08 

08.0 

74 

43 

50 

38 

02 

52 

A 

09 

04.5 

74 

44 

20 

38 

02 

50 

4 

10 

12.2 

74 

45 

20 

38 

02 

55 

4 

11 

18.5 

74 

45 

50 

38 

02 

45 

4 

12 

20.0 

74 

46 

55 

38 

03 

06 

4 

13 

26.0 

74 

47 

40 

38 

02 

54 

4 

14 

11.2 

74 

48 

30 

38 

03 

04 

Thermometer  74°. 


Mean  of  16  observations,  38°  02'  55". 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


July  30,  1846. — Camp  30,  near  Bent’s  Fort. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time,  p 

m. 

Chronometer  fast. 

4. 

m. 

S. 

De%. 

min. 

4. 

m. 

s. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

23 

02.3 

90 

00 

10 

40 

02.5 

7 

25 

30.06 

4 

23 

29.7 

90 

10 

10 

39 

36.0 

7 

25 

30.52 

4 

23 

55 . 0 

90 

20 

10 

39 

10.0 

rj 

25 

30.18 

4 

24 

20.2 

90 

30 

10 

38 

44.2 

7 

25 

29.80 

4 

24 

47.3 

90 

40 

10 

38 

17.5 

7 

25 

30.10 

4 

25 

38.8  . 

91 

00 

10 

37 

26.0 

7 

25 

30.11 

4 

26 

03.2 

91 

10 

10 

37 

00.0 

7 

25 

29.42 

4 

26 

56.5 

91 

30 

10 

36 

08.0 

7 

25 

29.98 

4 

30 

02.0  . 

92 

40 

10 

33 

06.0 

7 

25 

31.76 

4 

30 

51.8 

93 

00 

10 

32 

14,0 

7 

25 

30.67 

4 

31 

18 . 8 

93 

10 

10 

31 

47.7 

7 

25 

31.03 

* 4 

31 

44.0 

93 

20 

10 

31 

22,3 

7 

25 

30.94 

4 

3g 

10.0 

93 

30 

10 

30 

57.4 

7 

25 

31.50 

4 

32 

37.0 

93 

40 

10 

30 

29.5 

7 

25 

31.06 

4 

33 

02.8 

93 

50 

10 

30 

04.2 

7 

25 

31.32 

4 

33 

28.8 

94 

00 

10 

29 

37.5 

7 

25 

30.99 

Thermometer  78°. 


Mean  of  16  observations,  74.  25 m.  30.59,?. 


DETERMINATION  OF  INDEX  ERROR. 

I 


• 

Jilin . 

sec. 

On  the  arc ....... 

31 

30 

Off  the  arc  ...... 

31 

30 

Index  error  — OQ'h 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  30,  1846. — Ca?np  30,  near  Bentos  Fort. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitude  of  a Aquilse, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

min.  sec. 

6 

24 

18.8 

120 

40 

40 

38 

02 

37 

6 

25 

30.0 

120 

42 

30 

38 

02 

44 

6 

26 

47.5 

120 

46 

10 

38 

02 

14 

6 

27 

58.0 

120 

47 

10 

38 

02 

37 

6 

29 

05.5 

120 

48 

50 

38 

02 

33 

6 

30 

07.6 

120 

50 

10 

38 

02 

28- 

6 

31 

16.5 

120 

50 

50 

38 

02 

36 

6 

32 

37.0 

120 

51 

50 

38 

02 

31 

6 

33 

37.0 

120 

52 

10 

38 

02 

32 

6 

35 

02.8 

120 

52 

30 

38 

02 

27 

6 

36 

26.0 

120 

53 

00 

38 

02 

04 

6 

37 

48.8 

120 

52 

25 

38 

02 

01 

6 

38 

57.1 

120 

51 

00 

38 

02 

21 

6 

39 

56.5 

120 

49 

50 

38 

02 

28 

6 

41 

04.6 

120 

48 

55 

38 

32 

15 

6 

42 

06.5 

120 

47 

10 

38 

02 

25 

6 

44 

38.0 

120 

42 

50 

38 

02 

22 

6 

47 

08.8 

120 

37 

20 

38 

02 

16 

Thermometer  68°. 

Mean  of  18  observations,  38°  32'  25". 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


m 


July  31,  1846. — Camp  30,  near  BenVs  Fort. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE  BY  LUNAR  DISTANCE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

a Aquilse,  and 

moon’s 

Double  altitude  of  moon’s 

Longitude. 

west  limb. 

upper  limb. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec. 

Deg . 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

12 

39.6 

75 

42 

10 

64 

09 

50 

6 

50 

05.1 

3 

16 

04.0 

'75 

41 

30 

63 

34 

10 

6 

48 

45.1 

3 

18 

5.5.8 

75 

40 

30 

63 

01 

30 

6 

48 

57.5 

3 

21 

04.0 

75 

39 

30 

62 

41 

40 

6 

49 

.55.9 

3 

26 

06.8 

75 

37 

40 

61 

48 

20 

6 

50 

29.8 

3 

28 

11.8 

75 

37 

00 

61 

23 

50 

6 

50 

29.8 

3 

30 

23.3 

75 

36 

25 

60 

56 

40 

6 

50 

02.1 

V 

Time,  p.  m. 

Spica  Virginis,  and 
moon’s  west  limb. 

Moon’s  lower  limb. 

Longitude. 

h.  m . s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

3 40  33.0 

24  26  40 

57  46  50 

6 55  13.7 

3 46  51.0 

24  27  55 

56  49  10 

6 55  02.9 

3 48  54.0 

24  28  40 

56  01  40 

6 52  19,2 

3 50  58.2 

24  29  20 

'i 

55  33  40 

6 52  22.7 

Thermometer  18°. 


h.  m.  s. 


Longitude  by  7 observations  of  a Aquilse 6 49  49.33 

u 4 “ Spica  ............  6 53  44.12 


6 51  46.72 


M ean ...... 


* • e 9 • • 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

July  31,  1846. — Camp  30,  near  BenVs  Fort, 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time.,  a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

Time. 

p.  m. 

Chronometer  fast. 

sun’s  upper  limb. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min . 

'll. 

m. 

S. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

38 

04.2 

87 

50 

10 

44 

49.5 

7 

25 

27.20 

4 

18 

31.0 

, 88 

00 

10 

44 

23.5 

7 

25 

27.62 

4 

18 

55.9 

88 

10 

10 

43 

57.2 

7 

25 

26.93 

4 

19 

21.7 

88 

'20 

10 

43 

32.0 

7 

25 

27.24 

4 

19 

48.0 

88 

30 

10 

43 

05.5 

7 

25 

27.15 

4 

20 

13.6 

88 

40 

10 

42 

39.8 

7 

25 

27.10 

4 

20 

39.0 

88 

50 

10 

42 

13.8 

7 

25 

27.21 

4 

21 

06.0 

89 

00 

10 

41 

48.0 

7 

25 

27.42 

4 

21 

32.0 

89 

10 

10 

41 

22.0 

7 

25 

27.43 

4 

21 

57.5 

89 

20 

10 

40 

57.7 

7 

25 

28.04 

4 

22 

23.0 

89 

30 

10 

40 

30.0 

7 

25 

26.94 

Thermometer  77°. 


Mean  of  11  observations,  7 h.  25 m.  27.50 s. 


225  [ 7 j 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  31j  1846. — Camp  30,  near  Bent’s  Fort. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arc  turns 
iu  the  west. 

Chronometer  fa&t. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

. min. 

see . 

h. 

m . 

s. 

4 

05 

05.8 

91 

12 

50 

7 

25 

28.0 

4 

05 

52.3 

90 

54 

05 

7 

25 

26.3 

4 

06 

40.5 

90 

35 

55 

7 

25 

28.0 

4 

07 

36.4 

90 

14 

20 

7 

25 

28.1. 

4 

08 

32.7 

89 

52 

50 

7 

25 

29.0 

4 

09 

27.7 

89 

31 

00 

7 

25 

27,9 

4 

10 

22.8 

89 

09 

30 

7 

25 

27 . 8" 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilie 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

=~ 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

4 

12 

45.2 

94 

04 

50 

7 

25 

26.3 

4 

13 

46.0 

94 

23 

50 

7 

25 

29.0 

• 4 

14 

48.2 

94 

44 

45 

7 

25 

26.3 

4 

15 

50.0 

95 

04 

35 

7 

25 

26.5 

4 

16 

35 . 0 

95 

19 

20 

7 

25 

25.7 

4 

17 

43.8 

95 

40 

30 

7 

25 

28.4 

4t 

4 

18 

47.0 

96 

01 

00 

7 

25 

26.5 

h.  m.  S. 


Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  west  star  7 25  27.87 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  east  star  ........  26.96 

Mean  7 25  27.41 


15 


[ 7 ] 226 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

July  31,  1846. — Camp  30,  near  Bent’s  Fort. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


* 

Time. 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  *Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec. 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

4 

27 

45.2 

75 

00 

30 

38 

02 

45 

4 

28 

50.0 

. 75 

01 

15 

38 

02 

43 

4 

30 

06.3 

75 

01 

50 

38 

02 

33 

4 

31 

20.5 

75 

02 

50 

38 

02 

36 

4 

32 

07.5 

75 

04 

00 

36 

02 

55 

4 

33 

07.0 

55 

04 

40 

38 

02 

52 

4 

34 

08.8 

75 

05 

30 

38 

02 

52 

4 

35 

19.6 

75 

06 

05 

38 

02 

43 

4 

36 

13.0 

75 

€6 

30 

38 

02 

36 

4 

44 

03.0 

75 

13 

00 

38 

02 

55 

4 

45 

20.7 

75 

13 

30 

38 

02 

40 

4 

46 

26.8 

75 

14 

20 

38 

02 

40 

4 

47 

09.0 

75 

14 

50 

38 

02 

39 

4 

48 

05.5 

55 

15 

40 

38 

02 

46 

4 

48 

46.6 

75 

16 

05 

38 

02 

39 

4 

49 

35.2 

75 

16 

50 

38 

02 

45 

Thermometer  76°. 


Mean  of  16  observations,  38°  02'  44". 


227 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

July  31,  1846. — Camp  30?  near  BenCs  Fort . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilee, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

• 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deer 

min. 

sec. 

Deg;. 

min. 

sec 

6 

22 

36.0 

120 

44 

30 

38 

03 

17 

8 

24 

28.5 

120 

47 

30 

38 

03 

48 

6 

25 

38.0 

120 

49 

50 

38 

03 

20 

6 

26 

55.2 

120 

51 

10 

38 

03 

17 

6 

28 

05.2 

120 

52 

05 

38 

03 

16 

6 

29 

00.0 

120 

52 

40 

38 

03 

10 

6 

30 

08.0 

120 

52 

40 

38 

03 

20 

6 

31 

18.2 

120 

52 

00 

38 

03 

11 

6 

32 

21.0 

120 

51 

30 

38 

03 

54 

6 

34 

04.7 

120 

51 

30 

38 

03 

31 

€ 

34 

47.5 

121 

51 

05 

38 

03 

23 

6 

35 

35.0 

• 120 

50 

00 

38 

03 

34 

6 

36 

39.8 

120 

48 

20 

38 

03 

49 

6 

37 

41.8 

120 

47 

50 

38 

03 

24 

6 

38 

37.8 

120 

45 

50 

38 

03 

44 

6 

39 

25.5 

120 

45 

20 

38 

03 

18 

6 

40 

07.0 

120 

43 

20 

38 

03 

40 

Thermometer  68°. 


Mean  of  17  observations*  38°  03'  28". 


[ 7 ] 228 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
July  31,  1846. — Camp  30. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time, 

• 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  a Aquiiae  from 
moon’s  west  limb. 

' 

Long 

itude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg . min . sec. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

3 

12 

39.6 

75  42  10 

6 

50 

05.1 

3 

16 

04.0 

75  41  30 

6 

48 

45.1 

3 

18 

55.8 

75  40  30 

6 

48 

57.5 

3 

21 

04.0 

75  39  30 

6 

49 

55.9 

3 

26 

06.8 

75  37  40 

6 

50 

29.8 

3 

28 

11.8 

75  37  00 

6 

50 

29. S 

3 

30 

23.3 

75  36  25 

6 

50 

02.1 

Time,  p.  m. 


Distance  of  a Virginis  from 
moon’s  west  limb. 


Longitude. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

3 

40 

33.0 

24' 

26 

40 

6 

55 

13.7 

3 

46 

51.0 

24 

27 

55 

6 

55 

02.9 

3 

48 

54.0 

•24 

28 

40 

6 

52 

17.2 

3 

50 

58.2 

24 

29 

20 

6 

52 

22.7 

[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

S A ■ 

August  I,  1846. — Camp  30. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


' 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of 
meon’s 

a Virginis  from 
west  limb. 

Longitude. 

h. 

771 . 

S. 

Beg. 

min.  sec. 

h . 

m. 

s. 

3 

24 

02.0 

37 

40  05 

6 

53 

22.0 

3 

27 

34.5 

37 

41  30 

6 

53 

30.1 

3 

.29 

27.8 

37 

42  05 

6 

53 

11.0 

3 

31 

30.0 

37 

43  00 

6 

53 

38.3 

3 

33 

31.5 

37 

43  40 

6 

53 

24.2 

3 

35 

48.0 

37 

44  25 

6 

53 

11.0 

Time, 

p.  nio 

Distance  of  a Aquilee  from 
moon’s  west  limb. 

• 

# 

Longitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg.  min.  sec . 

h. 

\ 

m. 

s . 

3 

39 

46.5 

65  37  15 

6 

50 

24.7 

3 

41 

50.2 

63  36  30 

6 

50 

36.8 

3 

43 

39.7 

63  35  50 

6 

50 

48.8 

3 

45 

43.5 

63  34  55 

6 

51 

31.0 

3 

48 

29.2 

63  33  50 

6 * 

52 

04,1 

3 

49 

58.5 

63  33  20 

6 

52 

04.1 

3 

51 

24.6 

63  32  50 

6 

52 

07.2 

h.  m.  S. 

Longitude  by  14  observations  of  a Aquilae  ......  6 50  35.86 

Longitude  by  10  observations  of  a Yirginis 6 53  31.36 

6 52  03.61 


Mean 


[ 7 ] 230 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  1,  1846. — Camp  30,  near  BenCs  Fort. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h . 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

5 

41 

17.5 

118 

00 

9 

21 

28.0 

7 

25 

28.42 

5 

41 

47.8 

118 

10 

9 

*20 

57.7 

7 

25 

28.33 

5 

42 

18.0 

118 

20 

9 

20 

27.0 

7 

25 

28.10 

5 

42 

47.2 

118 

30 

9 

19 

57.0 

7 

25 

27.71 

5 

43 

17.6 

118 

40 

8 

19 

26.7 

7 

25 

27.78 

5 

43 

48:0 

118 

50 

9 

18 

55.8 

7 

25 

27.54 

5 

44 

19.0 

119 

00 

9 

18 

25.8 

7 

25 

28.05 

5 

44 

48.8 

119 

10 

9 

17 

55.7 

7 

25 

27.92 

5 

45 

18.6 

119' 

20 

9 

17 

25.3 

7 

25 

27.64 

5 

46 

20.2 

119 

40 

9 

16 

24.2 

7 

25 

27.81 

5 

46 

50.8 

119 

50 

9 

15 

55.8 

7 

25 

28.02 

5 

47 

21.0 

• 120 

00 

i 9 

15 

23.2 

7 

25 

27 .84 

231  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

August  3j  1846. — Cam^p  32. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west. 

«» 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

min 

sec . 

' - x 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

42 

40.2 

96 

04 

00  * 

7 

27 

03.3 

3 

45 

35.7 

94 

55 

50 

7 

27 

03.0 

3 

47 

24.0 

94 

14 

05 

7 

27 

03.7 

3 

48 

17.8 

93 

52 

30 

7 

.27 

01.9 

3 

49 

02.7 

93 

35 

30 

7 

27 

03.0 

3 

49 

52.5 

93 

16 

10 

7 

27 

03.1 

3 

50 

31.6 

93 

01 

00 

7 

27 

03.1 

3 

51 

18.8 

92 

41 

50 

7 

27 

01.2 

Thermometer  76°. 


Tnne3  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilse 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m:  s . 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

3 54  06.0 

91  36  40 

7 27  02.3 

3 54  46.8 

91  49  50 

7 27  04.0 

3 55  38.5 

92  07  30 

7 27  02.9 

3 56  40.0 

92  27  25 

7 27  04.9 

3 57  36.1 

92  46  00 

7 27  05.1 

3 58  25.2 

93  02  40 

7 27  04.1 

3 59  13.1 

93  17  40 

7 27  06.9 

Thermometer  76°. 


h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  8 obs.  of  west  star ..  7 27  02.79 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  east  star 04.31 

7 27  03.55 


Mean 


[ 7 ] - 232 

♦ 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  3,  1846. — Camp  32. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time. 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

03 

41.0 

’74 

15 

05 

37 

44 

59 

4 

04 

36.6 

74 

15 

55 

37 

45 

06 

4 

05 

28.5 

74 

16 

30 

37 

45 

01 

4 

06 

35.0 

'74 

16 

55 

37 

44 

55 

4 

07 

11.8 

74 

17 

40 

37 

45 

01 

4 

08 

09.7 

74 

18 

05 

37 

44 

54 

/ 

4 

09 

03.5 

74 

18 

35 

37 

44 

50 

4 

09 

46.3 

74 

18 

55 

37 

44 

45 

4 

10 

39.0 

74 

19 

55 

37 

44 

55 

Thermometer  75°. 


Mean  of  9 observations, 


37°  44'  56". 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August  5,  1846. — Camp  34,  on  the  Purgatory . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

A. 

m. 

S . 

Beg. 

min.  sec. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

06 

29.5 

73 

15 

05 

37 

12 

06 

4 

07 

52.0 

73 

15 

50 

37 

11 

59 

4 

08 

51.2 

r/3 

16 

40 

37 

12 

03 

4 

09 

53.3 

73 

17 

10 

37 

11 

55 

4 

12 

43.0 

73 

19 

30 

37 

12 

02 

4 

13 

40.8 

73 

20 

05 

37 

11 

59 

. 4 

15 

15.5 

53 

20 

55 

37 

11 

49 

4 

15 

53.4 

73 

21 

40 

37 

11 

58 

4 

19 

55.0 

73 

24 

20 

37 

11 

46 

4 

20 

38.8 

73 

25 

30 

37 

12 

06 

4 

21 

14.6 

73 

25 

50 

37 

12 

04 

4 

21 

50.0  ! 

73 

26 

10 

37 

12 

00 

4 

22 

34.6  i 

73 

”26 

40 

37 

11 

54  - 

Thermometer  67°. 


Wind  very  high  ; observations  imperfect. 
Mean  of  13  observations,  37°  11'  59". 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  5,  1846. — Camp  34,  on  the  Purgatory . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilee, 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

4 28  01.5 

104  44  20 

7 29  24.7 

4 29  21.3 

105  06  55 

7 29  26.9 

4 30  16.6 

105  22  50 

7 29  27.2 

4 31  24.0 

105  41  50 

7 29  28.6 

4 32  12.7 

105  55  50 

7 29  28.4 

4 33  14,5 

106  13  30 

7 29  28.2 

4 34  28.0 

106  35  00 

7 29  25.6 

Thermometer  67°. 


Mean  of  7 observations,  7 h.  29 m.  27.09 s. 


* 


235 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

• ’ ' ‘ 

August  6?  1846: — Camp  35,  i?i  the  Raio?i . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  0: 

Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

3 

46 

15.5 

72 

40 

50 

37 

00 

36 

3 

47 

57.8 

72 

41 

40 

37 

00 

25 

3 

49 

20., 7 

72 

42 

40 

37 

00 

26 

3 

50 

48.8 

72 

43 

40 

37 

00 

22 

3 

51 

52.7 

72 

44 

20 

37 

00 

20 

3 

53 

05.5 

72 

45 

20 

37 

00 

24 

3 

54 

07.5 

72 

45 

50 

37 

00 

15 

3 

55 

28.0 

72 

46 

30 

37 

00 

06 

3 

56 

21.6 

72 

47 

30 

37 

00 

17 

Thermometer  64°. 

+> 

Mean  of  9 observations,  37°  00'  21''. 


226 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — -Conti  med. 


m 

August  6,  184S.~-~Ca mp  35,  in  tie  Rct)n, 


DET  EE  M IN  AT  ION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arctnrus 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

*m. 

s. 

# I 

Deg 

min 

. sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

* 4 

00 

00.8 

85 

48 

55 

. 7 

29 

28.4 

4 

01 

09.0 

85 

22 

15 

7 

29 

29.6 

4 

02 

09.0 

84 

58 

20 

7 

29 

29.4 

4 

03 

06.6 

84 

35 

45 

7 

29 

30.2 

4 

04 

19.7 

84 

08 

05 

7 

29 

33.8  rej. 

4 

05 

12.5 

83 

45 

50 

7 

29 

30.7 

4 

06 

18.8 

83 

19 

55 

7 

29 

31.9 

Thermometer  64°. 


Time, 

- v 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  east 

* 

a Aquilee, 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m. 

S. 

' 

Deg. 

\ 

min . 

i 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 11 

33.4 

101 

09 

55 

7 

29 

31.9 

4 * 13 

42.8 

101 

50 

00 

7 

29 

32.3 

4 14 

54.7 

102 

11 

50 

7 

29 

33.5 

4 15 

50.5 

102 

28 

40 

7 

29 

34.4 

4 16 

43.6 

102 

45 

10 

7 

29 

33.5 

4 17 

42.5 

103 

03 

10 

7 

29 

33.2 

4 18 

52.0 

103 

24 

10 

7 

29 

33.4 

• 

Thermometer  63°. 


h.  m.  s. 


Chronometer  fast  by  6 observations  of  west  star..  7 29  30.03 
Chronometer  fast  by  7 observations  of  east  star..  33.17 

Mean ......  ......  7 29  31.60 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August  7,  1816. — Camp  36,  on  the  Canadian , south  side , about  one 

and  a half  mile  below  the  crossing. 

P 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west. 

•v 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

35 

22.7 

94 

01 

50 

7 

29 

20.2 

' 3 

36 

14.5 

93 

41 

30 

7 

29 

20.6 

3 

37 

01.0 

93 

22 

30 

7 

29 

19.1 

3 

37 

45.3 

93 

04 

55 

7 

29 

18.9 

3 

38 

39.0 

92 

44 

20 

7 

29 

20.5 

3 

39 

34 . 6 

92 

21 

40 

7 

29 

18.9 

3 

40 

13,0 

92 

04 

50 

7 

29 

14.8  rej. 

3 

41 

02.0 

91 

47 

35 

7 

29 

20.1 

Thermometer  59°. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Acpiilse, 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

3 43  56.5 

93  43  00 

7 29  22.7 

3 45  13.3 

94  09  30 

7 29  21.6 

3 46  15.8 

94  30  20 

7 29  22.6 

3 47  01.0 

94  46  00 

7 29  21.0 

3 47  53.8 

95  03  05 

7 29  24.5 

3 48  43.0 

95  19  50 

7 29  22.8 

3 49  36.2 

95  37  40 

7 29  23.2 

3 50  34.0 

95  57  15 

■ 

7 29  22.5 

Thermometer  59°. 


h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 observations  of  west  star  ...  7 29  19.76 
u 8 u east  star  ...  22.61 


• «•••••  0 e 0 ® « • 


7 29  21.18 


[ 7 ] 238 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
• August  7,  1846. — Camp  36. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude 

% 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec . 

3 

55 

48.0 

72 

23 

45 

36 

47 

11 

3 

56 

59.3 

72 

24 

55 

36 

47 

25  . 

3 

57 

59.3 

72 

25 

40 

36 

47 

25 

3 

59 

09.0 

72 

27 

00 

36 

47 

37 

4 

00 

32.6 

72 

28 

10 

36 

47 

52 

4 

01 

39.0 

72 

28 

50 

36 

47 

38 

4 

02 

25.3 

72 

29 

55 

36 

47 

54 

4 

03 

31.0 

72 

30 

25 

36 

47 

44 

4 

04 

15.0 

72 

31 

00 

36 

47 

45 

4 

05 

24.2 

72 

31 

10 

36 

47 

25 

4 

06 

15.5 

72 

31 

40 

36 

47 

21 

Thermometer  59°. 


Mean  of  11  observations,  36°  47'  34". 

Yariation  of  the  needle,  determined  by  the  eastern  elongation 
of  Polaris,  = 12°  east. 


/ 


S39 


[7] 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

August  8,  1846. — Camp  36. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  ra. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilse 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

• 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

01 

14.8 

100 

44 

25 

7 

29 

16.8 

4 

02 

07.6 

100 

59 

55 

7 

29 

20.4 

4 

03 

02.2 

101 

17 

20 

7 

29 

19.8 

4 

03 

53.7 

101 

33 

30 

7 

29 

19.7 

4 

05 

12.8 

101 

57 

45 

7 

29 

21.4 

4 

06 

08.8 

102 

15 

50 

7 

29 

19.1 

4 

07 

03.7 

102 

33 

25 

7 

29 

17.2 

4 

08 

03.5 

102 

52 

30 

7 

29 

15.1  rej. 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 
in  the  west . 

• h ' 5 - , „ , , 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

10 

06.0 

18 

37 

10 

7 

29 

17.7 

4 

11 

00.8 

18 

15 

30 

7 

29 

18.7 

4 

11 

57.7 

77 

52 

30 

7 

29 

18.9 

4 

12 

48.0 

• 77 

32 

05 

7 

29 

17.3 

4 

13 

59.8 

77 

03 

25 

7 

29 

17.4 

4 

14 

53.7 

76 

41 

30 

7 

29 

16.6 

4 

15 

38.0 

76 

24 

20 

7 

29 

18.1 

4 

16 

42.5 

75 

57 

35 

7 

29 

15.9 

4 

17 

32.5 

75 

38 

30 

7 

29 

18.2 

4 

18 

12.8 

75 

21 

30 

7 

29 

16.1 

Thermometer  63°. 


h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  east  star.  7 29  19.29 

((  10  u west  star  17.49 


Mean  . , • . 7 29  18.34 


DETERMINATION  OF  INDEX  ERROR. 


Mi n.  s*c.  Mir . sec. 
On  the  arc  • 31  40  31  35 

Off  the  arc  31  45  31  45 

« 


Index  error  = + 3.7. 


o o 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

August  10,  1846. — Camp  33,  on  the  Ciman  Citon. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  alt 
in 

• 

tudes  of  Arcturus 
the  west. 

Ch 

- . : ...  _ — . ~ - ? 

ronometer  fast. 

h. 

Til. 

S. 

. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

10 

58.7 

99 

36  40 

7 

30 

32.9 

O 

11 

49.0 

99 

17  25 

7 

30 

34.3 

3 

12 

40.2 

98 

56  45 

7 

30 

33.1 

3 

13 

43.5 

98 

31  40 

7 

30 

■ 32.7 

3 

14 

31.0 

98 

13  00 

7 

30 

32.9 

3 

15 

17.0 

97 

54  45 

7 

30 

32.6 

o 

O 

16 

10.0 

97 

34  10 

7 

30 

33.5 

Thermometer  59°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilae 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

* * 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

. min.  sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

18 

54.0 

89 

01 

35 

7 

30 

33.1 

3 

20 

08.2 

89 

27 

40 

7 

30 

34.1 

3 

21 

17.1 

89 

52 

25 

7 

30 

33.1 

3 

22 

34.1 

90 

18 

45 

7 

30 

35.6 

3 

23 

43.8 

90 

43 

20 

7 

30 

35.6 

3 

24 

43.5 

91 

03 

55 

7 

30 

36.5 

3 

25 

27.0 

_! 

91 

20 

00 

7 

30 

34.4 

Thermometer  59°. 


k.  711.  s. 


hronometer  fYstby  7 ohs.  of  east  star 7 30  34.63 

hrono.meter  f;  st  by  7 obs.  of  west  star 33.14 

Mean  7 30  33.88 


CO  CO  CO  CO  00  co  CO  CO  CO  Co  00  r 


0 


241  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

August  10,  184:6.— -Camp  38. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


?imc; 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

m. 

*>  S. 

I)  eg 

. min. 

sec. 

| 

Deg 

. min 

sec. 

29 

03.5 

71 

33 

25 

36 

27 

43 

29 

58.0 

71 

34 

00 

36 

27 

44 

31 

09 . 0 

71 

35 

10 

36 

27 

52 

32 

20.0 

71 

35 

50 

36 

27 

47 

33 

25 . 0 

71 

36 

50 

36 

27 

54 

34 

36.5 

71 

37 

30 

36 

27 

50 

35 

27.2 

71 

38 

20 

36 

27 

59 

36 

14.5 

71 

38 

50 

36 

27 

55 

37 

03.8 

71 

39 

10 

36 

27 

47 

37 

45 . 4 

71 

39 

55 

36 

27 

52 

38 

44.0 

71 

40 

30 

36 

27 

51 

Thermometer.  58°. 

Mean  of  11  observations,  36°  27'  50". 


16 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August  12,  1846. — Camp  40. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  rn. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyres, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  * s. 

9 16  50.0 

71  35  30 

7 31  26.9 

9 17  38.5 

71  18  15 

7 31  28.3 

9 18  41.6 

70  53  50 

7 31  27.7 

9 19  43.0 

70  31  50 

7 31  26.0 

9 20  24.2 

70  16  10 

7 31  24.4 

9 21  11.8 

69  59  20 

7 31  25.9 

9 22  03.6 

69  40  15 

7 31  25.5 

Time, 

a.  m.— 

-August  13. 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

771. 

S . 

i 

Deg. 

min . 

h. 

711 . 

s. 

4 

05 

34 . 3 

77 

50 

7 

31 

25.0 

4 

06 

00.5 

78 

00 

7 

31 

26.1 

4 

06 

26.2 

78 

10 

7 

31 

26.7 

4 

06 

51.7 

78 

20 

7 

31 

27.1 

4 

07 

16.2 

78 

30 

7 

31 

26.5 

4 

07 

41.0 

78 

40 

7 

31 

26.2 

4 

08 

05.0 

78 

50 

7 

31 

‘•'25.1 

4 

08 

29.2 

79 

00 

7 

31 

24.1 

4 

08 

54.2 

79 

10 

7 

31 

24.0 

4 

09 

20.0 

79 

20 

7 

31 

24.6 

4 

09 

44.6 

79 

30 

7 

31 

24.1 

Thermometer  66°. 


h . m . s . 

Chronometer  fast  by  11  observations  of  sun  in  east  7 31  25.49 


Rate  for'  7 hours  . . e .....  c . 88 

Chronometer  last  at  13,4. , August  12..... 7 3]  26.37 

Chronometer  fast  by  a Lyrse,  in  the  west 26.39 


7 31  26.38 


Mean 


243 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
August  12,  1846.  — Camp  40. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg . 

min . 

sec. 

Deg 

. min. 

sec. 

9 

27 

11.2 

74 

33 

30 

35 

54 

06 

9 

28 

38.0 

74 

34 

25 

35 

54 

19 

9 

30 

09.0 

74 

35 

00 

35 

54 

SO 

9 

31 

14.7 

74 

35 

30 

35 

54 

24 

9 

32 

18.5 

74 

36 

00 

35 

54 

29 

9 

33 

18.5 

74 

36 

00 

35 

54 

18 

9 

34 

27.0 

74 

36 

50 

35 

54 

31 

9 

35 

25.8 

74 

37 

00 

35 

54 

26 

9 

36 

38.5 

74 

37 

15 

35 

54 

22 

9 

37 

38.5 

74 

37 

30 

35 

54 

19 

Thermometer  49°. 


Mean  of^lO  observations,  35°  64'  21". 


244 


in 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

August  14,  1846.— -Camp  42,  about  cue  mile  south  of  the  Vegas.. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  Are- 

Chronometer  fast . 

turns 

n the  west. 

..  a - 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

3 

42 

51.8 

81 

21 

30 

7 

32 

05.0' 

3 

#4 

19.8 

80 

45 

45 

7 

32 

05.1 

3 

45 

35.9 

80 

16 

15 

7 

32 

08.9 

3 

46 

38.2 

79 

50 

50 

7 

32 

08.7 

3 

47 

42.7 

79 

24 

20 

7 

32 

08.1 

3 

48 

58.6 

78 

53 

10 

7 

32 

07.4 

3 

49 

55,0 

78 

30 

30 

7 

32 

08.1 

Thermometer  60°, 

1 

4 me,  p 

. m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Aquilae, 

Chronometer  fast. 

in  the  east 

h. 

m. 

S . 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

52 

21.4 

105 

59 

30 

7 

32 

06.3 

3 

53 

39.0 

106 

23 

45 

7 

32 

05.5 

3 

54 

51.7 

106 

47 

25 

7 

32 

01.5 

3 

56 

02.5 

107 

08 

20 

7 

32 

03.8 

3 

57 

12.0 

107 

29 

35 

7 

.32 

03.1 

3 

58 

18.8 

107 

49 

50 

7 

32 

02.9 

3 

59 

19.0 

108 

07 

30 

7 

32 

04.4 

t 

Thermometer  60°. 

h. 

m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 

obscrvat 

ions 

of  east 

star.  . 

. 7 

32  03 . 93 

u 

7 

u 

west 

star.  . 

• 

07.36 

7 32  05 . 64 


Mean 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

August  14,  1846. — Camp  42,  one  mile- south  of  the  Vegas . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

pi  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

• 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec . 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

03 

54.2 

70 

23 

25 

35 

34 

50 

4 

05 

06.0 

70 

24 

10 

35 

34 

46 

4 

05 

51.0 

70 

25 

30 

35 

35 

08 

4 

06 

52.5 

70 

25 

50 

35 

34 

55 

4 

08 

09.0 

• 70 

26 

50 

35 

34 

56 

4 

09 

09.0 

70 

28 

10 

35 

35 

13 

4 

10 

11.5 

70 

29 

10 

35 

35 

21 

4 

11 

12.0 

70 

29 

50 

35 

35 

15 

4 

11 

59.0 

70 

30 

35 

35 

35 

20 

Thermometer  60°. 

Mean  of  9 observations,  35°  35*  05". 


[ 7 ] 246 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  15 , 1846. — Camp  43,  Vernal  Spring. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Areturus 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

A. 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

min. 

sec . 

A. 

m. 

s. 

3 

.25 

03.0 

87 

14 

30 

7 

32 

35.7 

3 

25 

59.0 

86 

51 

40 

ri 

i 

32 

35.5 

3 

26 

57.1 

86 

28 

30 

7 

32 

36.7 

3 

27 

45.2 

86 

08 

50  . 

7 

32 

36.5 

3 

28 

26.7 

85 

51 

30 

7 

32 

35.4 

3 

29 

09.8 

85 

33 

55 

7 

32 

35.3 

3 

29 

57.3 

85 

15 

10 

7 

32 

36.7 

Thermometer  683. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilee 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

A. 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

min 

. sec. 

A. 

m. 

s. 

3 

33 

34.8 

101 

18 

30 

7 

32 

30.9 

3 

34 

31.1 

101 

38 

25 

7 

32 

30.3 

3 

35 

34.1 

101 

58 

30 

7 

32 

32.3 

3 

36 

23.0 

102 

14 

30 

7 

32 

32.8 

3 

37 

10.5 

102 

30 

05 

7 

32 

32.8 

3 

38 

15.0 

102 

51 

40 

7 

32 

31.2 

3 

39 

17.0 

103 

11 

15 

7 

32 

33.2 

Thermometer  65°. 


A.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 observations  of  east  star  7 32  31.93 

((  H 7 u west  star  35,97 


7 32  33.95 


Mean 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


m 

# 


August  15,  1846. — Camp  43. 

\ 0 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

k. 

m. 

v* 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

3 

48 

13.5 

63 

50 

40 

35 

23 

05 

3 

49 

19.5 

69 

51 

30 

35 

23 

06 

3 

50 

03.2 

63 

52 

15 

35 

23 

12 

3 

51 

08.5 

69 

53 

30 

35 

23 

25 

3 

51 

59.2 

69 

54 

25 

35 

23 

32 

3 

53 

06.0 

69 

54 

55 

35 

23 

23 

3 

53 

59.0 

69 

55 

25 

35 

23 

10 

3 

54 

54.0 

69 

56 

20 

35 

23 

03 

3 

55 

43.5 

69 

57 

00 

35 

23 

24 

Thermometer  65°. 


Mean  of  9 observations,  35°  23'  19,;. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August  19j  1846. — Santa  Fc. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

| 

Double  altitudes  of  a Coro- 
use  Borealis  in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

.9. 

Deg.  min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

32 

23.0 

93  16 

00 

7 

34 

49.3  rej. 

4 

33 

37.7 

92  47 

05 

7 

34 

52.8 

4 

34 

35.0 

92  23 

40 

7 

34 

52.4 

4 

35 

26.8 

92  02 

00 

7 

34 

50.9 

4 

36 

20.0 

91  41 

05 

7 

34 

52.5 

4 

37 

12.9 

91  18 

50 

7 

34 

50.7 

4 

38 

31.7 

90  48 

20 

7 

34 

54.4  rej. 

4 

39 

26.0 

SO  24 

35 

7 

34 

50.1 

4 

40 

23.0 

90  01 

40 

7 

34 

50.6 

Thermometer  60°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  east 

a Pegasi 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec. 

h. 

w. 

s. 

5 

10 

46.0 

41 

25 

7 

34 

62.7  rej. 

5 

11 

51.2 

78 

10 

00 

7 

34 

55 .5 

5 

12 

39.6 

78 

28 

25 

7 

34 

57.9 

5 

13 

38.8 

78 

51 

20 

7 

34 

59.5  rej. 

5 

14 

22.0 

79 

10 

00 

7 

34 

56.0 

5 

15 

19.0 

79 

33 

20 

7 

34 

54.4 

5 

16 

23.8 

79 

57 

20 

7 

34 

54.5 

5 

17 

31.2 

80 

23 

20 

7 

34 

61  2 rej. 

5 

18 

32,5 

80 

49 

30 

7 

34 

56.8 

Thermometer  59°. 


h.  Til.  s. 


Chronometer  fast  by  6 observations  of  east  star....  7 34  55.82 
Chronometer  fast  by  7 observations  of  west  star...  51.43 

Mean ......  7 34  53.62 


249  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

Jtuvust  19,  1816. — Santa  Fe. 

O * 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

7?E. 

s. 

Deg. 

rain. 

sec. 

Deg. 

rain . 

sec. 

5 

24 

20.0 

71 

51 

10 

35 

40 

47  rej. 

5 

25 

34.0 

71 

52 

40 

35 

41 

03 

5 

26 

51.0 

51 

53 

50 

35 

41 

09 

5 

27 

52.5 

71 

54 

40 

35 

41 

11 

5 

28 

47.0 

71 

55 

40 

35 

41 

18 

5 

30 

07.5 

71 

56 

30 

35 

41 

12 

5 

30 

55.2 

71 

57 

10 

35 

41 

13 

5 

31 

28.0 

71 

57 

55 

35 

41 

23 

Thermometer  59°. 


Mean  of  7 observations,  35°  41'  13f'. 


[7] 


250 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  2Q3  1846. — Santa  Fe. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Corona; 
Borealis. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m.  s . 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

3 40  19.0 

93  25  45 

• 

3 41  49.5 

92  47  10 

3 43  04.7 

92  17  50 

a»  ' 

* 

Time,  p.  m. 


Double  altitudes  of  Are- 
turus  in  the  west. 


Chronometer  fast. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

sec . 

3 

44 

54.5 

72 

01 

20 

3 

45 

46.2 

71 

40 

30 

3 

46 

46.2 

71 

17 

00 

3 

47 

36.2 

70 

56 

10 

3 

48 

28.0 

70 

35 

40 

3 

49 

26.9 

70 

11 

00 

3 

50 

18.0 

69 

50 

25 

3 

51 

09.8 

69 

29 

50 

3 

52 

01.0 

69 

08 

50 

Thermometer  62°. 


251 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August  203  1846 — Santa  Fe. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

771. 

Beg. 

min 

. sec. 

Deg 

. min.  sec. 

3 

57 

08.4 

70 

46 

30 

35 

41 

17 

3 

58 

20.2 

70 

47 

20 

35 

41 

14 

3 

59 

14.0 

70 

47 

50 

35 

41 

11 

3 

59 

50.0 

70 

48 

30 

35 

41 

14 

4 

50 

47.8 

70 

49 

30 

35 

41 

21 

4 

01 

18.5 

70 

49 

50 

35 

41 

19 

4 

01 

57.5 

70 

50 

10 

35 

41 

15 

4 

02 

56.0 

70 

51 

05 

35 

41 

27 

4 

03 

12.0 

70 

51 

10  | 

35 

41 

25 

Thermometer  62°. 


Mean  of  9 observation  35°  4T  13". 


4 


[ 7 ] ' 252 

» 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August  21j  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


Time,  a. 

ra. 

Double  altitudes  of  the 

sun’s  upper  limb. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

Deg. 

min . 

5 

09 

35.5 

98 

50 

5 

10 

04 . 0 

99 

00 

5 

10 

58.0 

99 

20 

5 

11 

25 .5 

99 

30 

5 

11 

53.8 

99 

40 

5 

12 

21.5 

99 

50 

5 

12 

47.8 

100 

00 

r' 

o 

13 

44.0 

100 

20 

5 

14 

12.5 

100 

30 

5 

14 

39.2 

100 

40 

Thermometer  68°. 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
August  22,  lSi6.—Sa?ita  Fe. 


DETERMINATION  OF.  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m.— 

-August  23. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time, 

p.  ill. 

— Aug’.  22. 

Clironometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

57 

26.0 

93 

40 

10 

18 

08.2 

7 

34 

46.44 

4 

56 

58.0 

93 

30 

10 

18 

36 . 8 

7 

34 

46  82 

4 

56 

31.3 

93 

20 

10 

19 

02.8 

7 

34 

46.55 

4 

56 

05.0 

93 

10 

10 

19 

28.7 

7 

34 

46.42- 

4 

55 

38.5 

93 

00 

10 

19 

55.6 

7 

34 

46.70 

4 

55 

11.2 

92 

50 

10 

20 

22.5 

7 

34 

46.50 

4 

54 

44.5 

92 

40 

10 

20 

50.0 

7 

34 

47.03 

4 

54 

17.5 

92 

30 

10 

21 

15.0 

7 

34 

46 . 10 

Thermometer  64°. 


Mean  of  8 observations,  7 h.  34 m.  46.58-5. 


254 

APPENDIX  No.5— Continued. 
August  22,  1846.— Santa  Fc. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s  upper  limb. 

h. 

m. 

S, 

Deg . 

min. 

5 

19 

22.8 

102 

00 

5 

19 

51.0 

102 

10 

5 

20 

19.8 

102 

20 

5 

20 

43.8 

102 

30 

5 

21 

10.0 

102 

40 

5 

21 

43.5 

102 

50 

5 

22 

13.0 

103 

00 

5 

22 

40.5 

103 

10 

5 

23 

08.5 

103 

20 

5 

23 

36.0 

103 

30 

5 

24 

05.4 

103 

40 

5 

24 

34.0 

103 

50 

5 

25 

03.0 

104 

00 

Thermometer  60°. 


t 


255  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


August  22,  1846.-—  Santo,  Fe . 


Time,  p, 

m. 

Double  altitude  of  Coronse  Borealis. 

h. 

m. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

29 

08.0 

89 

46 

50 

4 

30 

17.0 

89 

19 

20 

4 

31 

14.0 

88 

55 

10 

4 

31 

55.3 

88 

59 

00 

• 4 

32 

48.1 

88 

18 

20 

4 

33 

56.7 

87 

50 

00 

4 

34 

58.1 

87 

25 

00 

4 

35 

43.2 

87 

06 

50 

4 

36 

32.8 

86 

46 

20 

Thermometer  64°. 


Time,  p. 

m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Pegasi. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

br 

1 ^ 

min  - 

sec . 

5 

43 

19.5 

95 

12 

35 

5 

44 

20.5 

95 

35 

40 

5 

45 

24.9 

96 

01 

05 

5 

46 

02.0 

.96 

14 

15 

5 

46 

48.0 

96 

32 

30 

5 

47 

30.0 

96 

43 

50 

5 

48 

18.0 

97 

07 

00 

5 • 

49 

06.8 

97 

26 

00 

5 

49 

57.5 

97 

45 

25 

Thermometer  64°. 


CnCnCnCnCTCrtOiOt 


[7] 


256 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  22j  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


Time,  p.  m. 


Double  altitudes  of  a Aquilse  near  the  me- 
ridian. 


h.  m.  s. 

5 00  33.0 

5 01  23.5 

5 02  32.0 

03  39.3 

04  54.0 

06  20.8 

07  18.0 

08  21.5 

09  17.5 

10  04.8 

11  10.6 

5 14  10.0 

5 16  12.0 

5 17  28.4 

5 18  15.5 

5 21  14.2 

5 22  33.5 

5 23  50.0 

5 25  16.5 

5 26  37.0 


Deg. 

min . 

sec , 

125 

16 

05 

125 

18 

05 

125 

21 

00 

125 

23 

55 

125 

27 

20 

125 

30 

15 

125 

31 

30 

125 

33 

10 

125 

33 

50 

125 

34 

20 

125 

35 

40 

125 

38 

40 

125 

37 

40 

125 

36 

55 

125 

35 

00 

125 

32 

20 

125 

29 

00 

125 

23 

40 

125 

21 

05 

125 

17 

00 

Thermometer  64°. 


* 


257  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August  23,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

^ vv<- 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Chronometer  fast. 

4. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

4. 

m. 

S. 

4. 

m. 

s. 

4 

54 

17.5 

92 

30 

10 

19 

46.5 

7 

34 

44.54 

4 

54 

44.5 

92 

40 

10 

19 

19.8 

7 

34 

44.69 

4 

55 

11.2 

92 

50 

10 

18 

54.0 

7 

34 

45.13 

4 

55 

38.5 

93 

00 

10 

18 

26.6 

7 

34 

45.07 

4 

56 

05.0 

93 

10 

10 

17 

50.5 

7 

34 

45.26 

4 

56 

31.3 

93 

20 

10 

17 

34.0 

7 

34 

45 . 15 

4 

56 

58.0 

93 

30 

’ 10 

17 

05.8 

7 

34 

44,39 

4 

57 

26.0 

93 

40 

10 

16 

39.4  1 

7 

34 

45.10 

4 

57 

52.0 

93 

50 

10 

16 

13.5 

7 

34 

45.22 

4 

58 

20.1 

94 

00 

10 

15 

47.1 

7 

34 

46.02 

4 

58 

45.8 

94 

10 

10 

15 

19.7 

7 

34 

45.21 

4 

5S 

15.5 

94 

20 

10 

14 

52.5 

7 

34 

45.45 

4 

59 

39.8 

94 

’ 30 

10 

14 

’24.0 

7 

34 

44.35 

Thermometer  69°. 


Mean  of  13  observations,  74.  34 m.  45.05 s. 

17 


[ 7 ] 258 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  23,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

SI 

c,  1 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Aquilse, 

Latitude. 

near  the  meridian. 



h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

min.  sec. 

4 

59 

37.0 

125 

24 

40 

35 

40 

22 

5 

00 

47.0 

125 

26 

00 

35 

41 

00  rej. 

5 

01 

38.8 

125 

28 

55 

35 

40 

23 

5 

02 

57.8 

125 

30 

40 

35 

40 

39 

5 

03 

50.7 

125 

32 

00 

35 

40 

38 

5 

04 

51.5 

125 

33 

20 

35 

40 

37 

5 

06 

17.0 

125 

34  • 

30 

35 

40 

44 

5 

07 

22.5 

125 

35 

25 

35 

40 

39 

5 

09 

24.5 

125 

36 

00 

35 

40 

41 

5 

10 

42.0 

125 

36 

10 

35 

40 

34 

5 

11 

41.0 

125 

36 

10 

35 

40 

25 

5 

12. 

31.5 

125 

36 

00 

35 

40 

17 

5 

13 

47.5 

125 

34 

50 

35 

40 

22 

5 

15 

35.6 

125 

33 

00 

35 

40 

17 

5 

16 

42.3 

125 

30 

10 

35 

40 

54  rej. 

5 

17 

58.5 

125 

27 

50 

35 

40 

58  rej. 

5 

19 

12.5 

125 

26 

05 

35 

40 

36 

5 

l^-n — 

20 

10.0 

125 

23 

40 

35 

40 

43 

Thermometer  69°. 

^ 8 

V --  * I 

Mean  of  15  observations,  35°  40'  32'\ 


/ 


( 


m 


259 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  24,  1816  — Santa  Fe. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

55 

39.0 

4 

56 

04.0 

4 

56 

32.2 

4 

56 

59.0 

4 

57 

25.8 

4 

57 

53.8 

4 

58 

19.7 

4 

58 

47.0 

4 

59 

14.5 

4 

59 

42.1 

5 

00 

08.5 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s  upper  limb. 


Deg. 

min. 

92 

40 

92 

50 

93 

00 

93 

10 

93 

20 

93 

30 

93 

40 

93 

50 

94 

00 

94 

10 

94 

20 

Thermometer  68°. 


[ 7 ] 280 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


August  28,  1846 — Santa  Fe. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Time, 

a.  ra. 

— August  29. 

i 

h. 

m. 

Deg. 

min . 

h. 

77i. 

s. 

10 

45 

22.0 

80 

00 

4 

26 

24.5 

10 

45 

48.1 

79 

50 

4 

25 

58.5 

10 

46 

14.5 

79 

40 

4 

25 

32.5 

10 

46 

40.0 

79 

30 

4 

25 

05.5 

10 

47 

07.5 

79 

20 

4 

24 

39.2 

10 

47 

32.0 

79 

10 

4 

24 

14.5 

10 

47 

58.2 

79 

00 

4 

23 

47.5  , 

10 

48 

21.8 

78 

50 

4 

23 

21.2 

10 

48 

51.8 

78 

40 

4 

22 

55.5 

10 

49 

16.4 

78 

30 

4 

22 

29.0 

10 

49 

42.7 

78 

20 

4 

22 

03 . 4 

10 

50 

08.6 

78 

10 

4 

21 

35.3 

10 

50 

34.6 

78 

00 

4 

21 

12.2 

10 

51 

00.0 

77 

50 

4 

20 

44.5 

10 

51 

26.2 

77 

40 

4 

20 

18.8 

10 

51 

52.5 

77 

30 

4 

19 

53.0 

Thermometer  70°. 

Thermometer  66°. 

( 


r 


261  [ 7 ] 

0 1 a 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

August  29,  1846. — Smta  Fe. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  a Aquilse  from 
moon’s  western  limb. 

Double  altitudes  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 

h. 

m. 

' 

s. 

Beg.  min. 

sec. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

3 

05 

55.0 

55  49. 

50 

60  38 

10 

3 

07 

05.0 

55  49 

00 

60  25 

10 

3 

09 

59.0 

55  48 

00 

59  53 

50 

3 

12 

03.8 

55  46 

55 

59  33 

30 

3 

15 

12.0 

55  45 

45 

58  55 

30 

3 

17 

00.0 

55  45 

20 

58  35 

30 

3 

19 

05  „ 6 

55  44 

20 

58  11 

20 

3 

21 

19.0 

55  43 

40 

57  45 

40 

Thermometer  69°. 


/ 


m- 


262 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August,  29,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time,  p 

m. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

mm . 

! 

fl. 

m. 

S. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

26 

24.5 

80 

00 

10 

43 

51.5 

7 

34 

31.65 

4 

25 

58.5 

79 

50 

10 

44 

18.8 

7 

34 

32.31 

4 

25 

32.5 

79 

40 

10 

44 

44.6 

7 

34 

32.22 

4 

25 

05.5 

79 

30 

10 

45 

10.6 

7 

34 

31.73 

4 

24 

39.2 

79 

20 

10 

45 

38.0 

7 

34 

32.29 

4 

24 

14.5 

79 

10 

10 

46 

03.8 

7 

34 

32.84 

4 

23 

47. 5 

79 

00 

10 

46 

30.0 

7 

34 

32.45 

4 

23 

21.2 

78 

50 

10 

46 

55.8 

7 

34 

32.21 

4 

22 

55.5 

78 

40 

10 

47 

21.5 

7 

34 

32.22 

4 

22 

29.0 

78 

30 

10 

47 

47.0 

7 

34 

31.73 

4 

22 

03.4 

78 

20 

10 

48 

13.5 

7 

34 

32.18 

4 

21 

35.3 

78 

10 

10 

48 

40.0 

~7 

34 

31.39 

4 

21 

12.2 

78 

00 

10 

49 

05.8 

7 

34 

32.75 

4 

20 

44.5 

77 

50 

10 

49 

31.8 

7 

34 

31.91 

4 

20 

18.8 

77 

40 

10 

49 

57.8 

7 

34 

31.67 

4 

19 

53.0 

77 

30 

10 

50 

24.2 

7 

34 

32.38 

Thermom.  66°. 

Thermom 

. 72°. 

Mean  of  16  observations,  7k.  32.1 2s. 


263 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued, 

\ 

August  29,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


m 


Time;  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h.  m.  s . 

Beg.  min.  sec. 

Beg.  min.  sec. 

5 22  59.8 

72  22  05 

35  41  35 

5 23  50.5 

72  22  20 

35  41  20 

5 24  54.0 

72  23  10 

35  41  23 

5 25  30.0 

72  24  00 

35  41  34 

5 26  21.5 

72  24  30 

35  41  30 

5 27  04.8 

72  25  30 

35  41  44 

5 27  58.5 

72  26  00 

35  41  39 

5 28  57.0 

72  26  40 

35  41  37 

5 29  42.5 

72  27  05 

35  '41  33 

Thermometer  68°. 


Mean  of  9 observations,  35°  41'  33". 


m 


264 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


August  29,  1846. — Santa  F’e. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  b Aquarii, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec. 

6 

23 

30.0 

96 

10 

15 

35 

40 

56 

6 

24 

16 . 8 

96 

10 

25 

35 

41 

09 

6 

25 

13.8 

96 

10 

30 

35 

41 

11 

6 

26 

46.8 

96 

10 

30 

35 

41 

11 

6 

27 

32.0 

96 

11 

15 

35 

40 

44 

6 

28 

22.8 

96 

11 

00 

35 

40 

43 

6 

29 

04.7 

96 

10 

20 

35 

40 

54 

6 

29 

•34.2 

96 

09 

55 

35 

40 

58 

6 

30 

15.5 

96 

09 

25 

35 

41 

01 

6 

30 

59.0 

96 

58 

30 

35 

41 

12 

6 

31 

33.5  . 

96 

08 

00 

35 

41 

12 

Thermometer  66° 


Mean  of  11  observations,  35°  41'  01". 


m 


265 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
August  29,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Aquarii, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

% 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deo* 

. min. 

sec. 

6 

51 

57.5 

106 

26 

30 

35 

40 

49 

6 

53 

23.0 

106 

28 

10 

35 

40 

56 

* 

6 

54 

36.8 

106 

29 

40 

35 

40 

52 

6 

55 

44.0 

106 

30 

55 

35 

40 

45 

6 

57 

42.0 

106 

32 

30 

35 

40 

35 

6 

58 

56.1 

106 

32 

10 

35 

40 

57 

7 

01 

45.8 

106 

32 

00 

35 

41 

01 

7 

03 

19.2 

106 

31 

30 

3b 

40 

57 

7 

04 

11.0 

106 

30 

50 

35 

41 

01 

7 

05 

00.0 

106 

29 

55 

35 

41 

09 

7 

06 

10.8 

106 

28 

30 

35 

41 

18 

7 

07 

20.0 

106 

27 

30 

35 

41 

08 

7 

08 

38.4 

106 

26 

30 

35 

40 

45 

7 

09 

22.8  . 

106 

24 

45 

35 

41 

05 

Thermometer  66°. 


Mean  of  14  observations,  35°  40'  57". 


[ 7 ] 266 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
August  29,  1846. — -Santa  Fe. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of 
moon’s 

a Aquilee  from 
west  limb. 

Long 

itude. 

h. 

m. 

. 

Beg. 

• 

min . sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

05 

55.0 

55 

49 

50 

7 

05 

52.5  rej. 

3 

07 

05.0 

55 

49 

00 

7 

04 

25.1 

3 

09 

59.0 

55 

48 

00 

7 

04 

41.8 

3 

12 

03.8 

55 

46 

55 

7 

03 

48.4 

3 

15 

12.0 

55 

45 

45 

7 

03 

51.1 

3 

17 

00.0 

55 

45 

20 

7 

04 

33.8 

3 

19 

05.6 

55 

44 

20 

7 

03 

59.1 

3 

21 

19?0 

55 

43 

40 

7 

04 

25.8 

Ailgust  30,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


Time,  p 

. m. 

Distance  o 
moon’s 

f Antares  from 
west  limb. 

, 

Long 

itude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

42 

09.0 

16 

15 

55 

7 

04 

39.7 

3 

43 

39.8 

16 

16 

40 

7 

04 

02.2 

3 

48 

23.8 

16 

18 

20 

7 

03 

59.3 

3 

50 

33.5 

16 

18 

50 

7 

04 

42.6 

o 

o 

51 

48.0 

16 

19 

20 

7 

04 

28.2 

3 

52 

49.1  . 

16 

19 

40 

7 

04 

36.8 

3 

55 

59.5 

16 

20 

30 

7 

04 

22.4 

3 

56 

57.5 

16 

21 

15 

7 

04 

08.0 

h.  m.  s. 


Longitude  by  7 observations  of  a Aquilse  ........ . 7 04  14.73 

u 8 u Antares  7 04  22.40 

Mean 7 04  18.56 


267 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
September  1 ? 1816. — Santa  Fe. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
Borealis. 

a Coronse 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

3 

m. 

29 

S. 

17.8 

Deo*. 

r> 

97 

min . 
57 

sec. 

35 

3 

30 

52.0 

97 

20 

00 

3 

31 

40.1 

97 

00 

15 

3 

32 

32.5 

96 

39 

10 

. 

3 

33 

32.0 

96 

14 

30 

3 

34 

26.0 

95 

53 

10 

3 

36 

32.1 

95 

01 

30 

Time,  p.  m. 


Double  altitudes  of  a Aquarii, 
in  the  east. 


Chronometer  fast. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min 

sec. 

3 

53 

23.8 

92 

10 

30 

3 

54 

28.6 

92 

34 

00 

3 

55 

16.5 

92 

51 

40 

3 

56 

07.6 

93 

09 

50 

3 

57 

08.8 

93 

31 

20 

3 

57 

50.5 

93 

46 

30 

3 

58 

34.3 

94 

02 

15 

/ 


Thermometer  70°. 


E?] 

September 

268 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

4,  1846. — Camp  49,  on  the  Rio  del 

Alalavo. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 

JVort 

e,  near  the 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a 
Aquilee  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

.2  41 

22.8 

108  33  40 

7 

37 

03.0 

2 42 

06.5 

108  46  35 

7 

37 

04.0 

* 2 43 

00.5 

109  02  40 

7 

37 

04.7 

2 43 

42.0 

109  14  55 

7 

37 

05.4 

Thermometer  643. 

T ime , 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Arcturus 

Chronometer  fast. 

in  the  west. 

h.  m. 

S. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

2 53 

28.8 

69  52  00 

7 

37 

06.2 

2 54 

15.5 

69  34  15 

7 

37 

07.5 

2 55 

10.0 

69  09  20 

7 

37 

03.2  rej. 

2 56 

11.9 

68  45  40 

7 

37 

07.2 

2 57 

07.0 

68  23  00 

7 

37 

06.9 

2 58 

09.8 

67  57  55 

7 

37 

08.5 

2 59 

04.0 

67  35  35 

7 

37 

08.0 

2 59 

58.4 

66  13  00 

7 

37 

07.2 

3 00 

49.0 

65  52  50 

7 

37 

07.7 

Thermometer  64°. 


h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  4 obs.  of  east  star 7 37  04.28 

Chronometer  fast  by  8 obs.  of  west  star 07.40 


7 37  05.84 


Mean 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

September  4,  1846. — Camp  49,  on  the  Rio  del  JYorte , near  the 

Alalavo. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


* \ 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

■ ' 1 ' ' ' 

Latitude. 

...  t,  ^ 

h. 

m . 

S. 

Des;. 

min. 

sec. 

Deer.  min. 

sec. 

3 

06 

11.0 

69 

51 

35 

35 

11 

19 

3 

07 

08.0 

69 

52 

25 

35 

11 

21 

3 

08 

35.5 

09 

69 

53 

35 

35 

11 

17 

3 

09 

45.0 

54 

20 

35 

11 

IS 

3 

10 

51.3 

69 

55 

10 

35 

11 

17 

3 

11 

48.5 

69 

56 

00 

35 

11 

20 

3 

12 

44.0 

69 

56 

30 

35 

11 

13 

3 

13 

20.0 

69 

57 

10 

35 

11 

20 

3 

13 

56.8 

69 

57 

55 

35 

11 

32 

3 

14 

54.5 

69 

58 

30 

35 

11 

21 

3 

15 

30.3 

69 

59 

00 

35 

11 

22 

3 

16 

19.0 

69 

59 

40 

35 

11 

25 

3 

17 

03.4 

70 

00 

00 

35 

11 

18 

Thermometer  64°. 


Mean  of  13  observations,  35°  11'  20". 


[71 


270 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

September  6,  1846. — Peralta , about  500  feet  north  of  the  Charois 

chapel. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
Borealis. 

a Coronse 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

5 

36 

42.2 

87 

58 

00 

7 

37 

15.9 

3 

37 

43.6 

87 

31 

55 

7 

37 

13.6 

3 

38 

44.0 

87 

07 

45 

7 

37 

14.9 

3 

39 

37.1 

86 

46 

15 

7 

37 

15.4 

3 

40 

42.5 

86 

19 

45 

7 

37 

15.8 

3 

41 

46.0 

85 

53 

10 

7 

37 

14.4 

3 

43 

09.0 

85 

19 

00 

7 

37 

13.7 

3 

44 

14.3 

84 

51 

50 

7 

37 

12.5 

3 

45 

01.2 

84 

33 

20 

7 

37 

14.0 

3 

46 

12.8 

84 

03 

50 

7 

37 

13.4 

3 

47 

12.3 

83 

39 

40 

7 

37 

13.6 

3 

48 

03.8 

83 

18 

50 

7 

37 

14.1 

Thermometer  60°. 


Mean  of  12  observations,  7 h.  37 m.  14.285. 


271 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
September  6,  1846. — Peralta. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time,  p 

. m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec . 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

3 

53 

54.0 

69 

54 

30 

34 

50 

49 

3 

56 

13.5 

69 

56 

30 

34 

50 

55 

3 

57 

39.0 

69 

57 

10 

34 

50 

56 

3 

58 

52.8 

69 

58 

40 

34 

50 

56 

4 

00 

03.7 

69 

59 

40 

34 

50 

59 

4 

01 

09.2 

70 

00 

45 

34 

51 

06 

4 

02 

16.8 

70 

01 

20 

34 

50 

57 

4 

11 

29.2 

70 

07 

55 

34 

50 

58 

4 

12 

37.5 

70 

09 

40 

34 

51 

05 

4 

13 

30.2 

70 

10 

10 

34 

50 

59 

4 

14 

51.0 

70 

10 

50 

34 

50 

47 

4 

15 

52.5 

70 

11 

55 

34 

50 

55 

4 

16 

58.1 

70 

13 

00 

34 

51 

03 

Th  ermoraeter  56°. 


Mean  of  13  observations;<84°  50'  57;/. 


273 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

, -'"7  1 : . i 

September  6,  1846. — Peralta. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  The  easl 

a Pegasi, 

Chronometer  fast . 

h. 

m. 

S. 

1 

Deer 

. mm. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

36 

53 . 8 

91 

52 

10 

7 

37 

15.2 

4 

37 

44.5 

92 

12 

10 

7 

37 

15.1 

4 

38 

31.5 

92 

0I 

00 

7 

37 

14.3 

4 

39 

14.0 

92 

47 

50 

7 

37 

14.0 

4 

40 

03.9 

93 

07 

30 

7 

37 

13.8 

4 

41 

16.3 

93 

35 

30 

7 

37 

14.9 

4 

42 

16.5 

93 

59 

40 

7 

37 

13.5 

4 

43 

30  8 

94 

29 

10 

7 

37 

12.5 

4 

44 

29.7 

94 

51 

40 

7 

37 

13.9 

h.  min.  sec. 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  east  star 7 37  14.13 

Chronometer  fast  by  12  obs.  of  west  star 14.28 


h.  min.  sec. 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  east  star 7 37  14.13 

Chronometer  fast  by  12  obs.  of  west  star 14.28 


Mean 7 37  14.20 


* 

18 


i 


273 


m 

'•'APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

September  10,  1846. — Camp  55 , on  the  Rio  del  J\Torte3  about  one 

mile  south  of  San  Felippe. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 
laris. 

of  Po- 

Latitude. 

i 

h. 

m. 

I 

Deg 

. min . 

sec . 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

3 

01 

13.1 

. 70 

34 

10 

35 

24 

47  rej. 

3 

02 

04.2 

70 

36 

10 

35 

25 

37 

3 

02 

56.2 

70 

36 

50 

35 

25 

37 

3 

03 

42.8 

70 

37 

30 

35 

25 

35 

3 

04 

25.5 

70 

37 

30 

35 

25 

32 

3 

05 

25.5 

70 

38 

40 

35 

25 

33 

3 

06 

11.1 

70 

39 

15 

35 

25 

33 

3 

07 

35.2 

70 

40 

05 

35 

25 

23 

3 

08 

48.0 

70 

40 

40 

35 

25 

15 

Thermometer  52°. 


Mean  of  8 observations,  35°  25'  3Q;'. 


18 


/ 


m 


274 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
September  10?  1846. — Camp  55. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  ol  a Coronse 
Borealis,  in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

■! 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

3 13  37.8 

89  47  05 

7 36  06.6 

3 16  43.0 

89  20  50 

7 36  07.3 

3 17  34.9 

88  59  40  ' 

7 36  07.1 

3 18  28.7 

88  37  45 

7 36  06.7 

3 19  30.7 

88  12  50 

'7  36  08.6 

3 20  37.4 

87  44  45 

7 36  05.3 

3 21  27.0 

87  24  15 

7 36  04 -6 

Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Pegasi, 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

3 47  10.1 

78  32  10 

7 36  03.4 

3 48  00.0 

78  51  30 

7 36  05.2 

3 48  37.5 

79  14  20 

7 36  05.7 

3 50  07.5 

79  42  10 

7 36  06.3 

3 51  04.2 

80  05  50  • 

7 36  05.8 

3 51  44.5 

80  21  20 

7 36  05.4 

3 52  48.5 

80  46  50 

7 36  05.4 

3 53  49.8 

81  11  05 

7 36  05.4 

» f 

. . 

Thermometer  52°. 

h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  8 obs.  of  east  star 7 36  05.19 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  west  star  06.60 


Mean ......  7 36  05.90 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
September  13,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

\ 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

) 

sec 0 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

31 

12.0 

76 

30 

00 

7 

33 

54.2 

4 

31 

39.8 

76 

40 

00 

7 

33 

54.4 

4 

32 

07.5 

76 

50 

00 

7 

33 

54.3 

4 

32 

35.8 

77 

00 

00 

7 

33 

54.9 

4 

33 

02.3 

77 

10 

00 

'7 

33 

53.6 

4 

33 

32.0 

77 

20 

00 

7 

33 

55.5 

4 

34 

00.2 

77 

30 

00 

7 

33 

55.9 

4 

34 

27.2 

40 

00 

7 

33 

55.0 

4 

34 

54.8 

77 

50 

00 

7 

33 

54.7 

4 

35 

22.7 

78 

00 

00 

7 

33 

55.7 

4 

35 

51.1 

78 

10 

00 

7 

33 

55.1 

4 

36 

19.0 

78 

20 

00 

7 

33 

55.1 

4 

36 

46.5 

78 

30 

00 

n 

4 

33 

54.6 

Thermometer  59°. 


Mean  of  13  observation?,  7 h.  33 m,  54.78s. 


DETERMINATION  OF  INDEX  ERROR. 


Min.  sec . 

On  the  arc  31  20 

Gif  the  arc  31  50 


Index  error  = -r  10''. 


Min , sec . 

31  40 
31  50 


i 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


September  13,  1846.— Santa  Fe. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Chronometer  fast. 
✓ 

h. 

m. 

i 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

' 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

10 

53 

10.2 

67 

10 

00 

7 

33 

53.4 

10 

53 

37.5 

67 

00 

00 

7 

33 

54.1 

10 

54 

03.0 

66 

50 

00 

7 

33 

53.1 

10 

54 

30.3 

66 

40 

00 

7 

33 

53.8 

10 

54 

56.3 

66 

30 

00 

7 

33 

53.3 

10 

55 

22.7 

66 

20 

00 

7 

33 

53.2 

10 

55 

49.0 

66 

10 

00 

7 

33 

53.0 

10 

56 

15.2 

66 

00 

00 

7 

33 

52.7 

10 

56 

41.0 

65 

50 

00 

7 

33 

52.1 

10 

57 

08.4 

65 

40 

00 

7 

33 

53.0 

10 

57 

36.5 

65 

30 

00 

7 

33 

54,7 

10 

58 

01.0 

65 

20 

00 

7 

33 

52.7 

10 

58 

29.2 

i 65 

10 

00 

7 

33 

54.5 

Thermometer  74°. 


Mean  of  13  observations,  7 k.  33 m.  53.50 s. 


277  ' [ 7 1 

.APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

September  17,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

, Sept.  18. 

Double  altitudes  of  the  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Time, 

p.  m. 

h. 

m. 

Deg;. 

min. 

h . 

m. 

S. 

4 

48 

02.0 

80 

20 

10 

09 

13.0 

4 

47 

32.8 

80 

10 

10 

09 

42.6 

4 

47 

02.0 

80 

00 

10 

10 

11.0 

4 

46 

34.0 

79 

50 

10 

10 

42.0 

4 

46 

04.2 

79 

40 

10 

11 

10.2 

4 

45 

36.0 

79 

30 

10 

11 

39.5 

4 

45 

06.8 

79 

20 

10 

12 

09.4 

79 

10 

10 

12 

38.8 

79 

00 

10 

13 

07.5 

Thermometer  68°. 

Thermometer  72°. 

j 


[71 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued'.' 
September  17,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  b Aquarii, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude, 

li. 

m. 

s. 

Beg 

. min 

. sec . 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

5 

02 

37.0 

96 

06 

55 

35 

40 

34 

5 

04 

14.0 

96 

08 

40 

35 

40 

35 

5 

05 

29.0 

96 

09 

30 

35 

40 

44 

5 

06 

48.9 

96 

10 

20 

35 

40 

46 

5 

08 

05.5 

96 

11 

05 

35 

40 

42 

5 

09 

57.5 

96 

11 

20 

35 

40 

47 

5 

11 

39.8 

96 

11 

20 

35 

40 

44 

5 

13 

09.0 

96 

11 

15 

35 

40 

33 

5 

14 

29.5 

96 

09 

55 

35 

40 

51 

5 

16 

00.0 

96 

08 

50 

35 

40 

50 

5 

17 

29.8 

96 

07 

20 

35 

40 

50 

5 

19 

06.8 

' 

96 

05 

10 

35 

40 

55 

Thermometer  60°. 


Mean  of  12  observations,  35°  40'  44". 


279 


[ 7 ] 

. APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

September  17,  1846. — Santa  Fe . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time3 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

i 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg 

. min.  sec. 

5 

26 

53.8 

73 

16 

20 

35 

41  11 

5 

28 

25 .8 

73 

17 

20 

35 

41  12 

5 

29 

40.0 

73 

18 

15 

35 

41  18 

5 

30 

59.5 

73 

19 

20 

35 

41  26 

5 

32 

11.0 

73 

20 

20 

35 

41  34 

5 

33 

48.0 

73 

21 

10 

35 

41  30 

5 

35 

31.8 

73 

22 

40 

35 

41  43 

5 

36 

37.8 

73 

23 

35 

35 

41  45 

5 

39 

05.5 

73 

24 

15 

35 

41  26 

5 

41 

01.0 

73 

25 

40 

35 

41  34 

Thermometer  60°. 


Mean  of  9 observations,  35°  41'  30". 


' 

By  North  Star. 

By  South  Star. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec 

' 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Aug.  19 . . 

35 

41 

13 

7 

obs. 

Aug.  25 . . 

35 

40 

32 

15  obs. 

“ 20.. 

35 

41 

18 

9 

cc 

“ 29 . . 

35 

41 

01 

11 

Cl 

“ 29.. 

35 

41 

33 

9 

Cl 

“ 29.. 

35 

40 

57 

14 

u 

Sept.  17 . . 

35 

41 

30 

9 

cc 

Sept.  17 . . 

35 

40 

44 

12 

a 

Mean . . 

35 

41 

23. 

5 

Mean . * 

35 

40 

48.5 

Mean  of  north,  and  south  35°  41'  06'',  latitude  of  Santa  Fe. 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


September  18,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


r 

Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

sun’s  upper  limb. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

Deg. 

min. 

4 

45 

06.8 

79 

20 

4 

45 

36,0 

79 

30 

4 

46 

04.2 

79 

40 

4 

46 

34.0 

79 

50 

4 

47 

02.0 

80 

00 

4 

47 

32.8 

80 

10 

4 

48 

02.0 

80 

20 

4 

48 

30.5 

80 

30 

4 

49 

00.5 

80 

40 

4 

49 

30.0 

80 

50 

4 

49 

58.0 

81 

00 

Thermometer  68°. 


281 


4 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
September  21,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m.- 

—Sept.  22. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time,  p 

m. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg;. 

min. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

41 

25.5 

76 

20 

10 

12 

47.0 

7 

33 

38.18 

4 

40 

58.6 

76 

10 

10 

13 

14.8 

7 

33 

37.26 

4 

40 

29.2 

76 

00 

10 

13 

46.2 

7 

33 

38.39 

4 

40 

01.0 

75 

50 

10 

14 

14.3 

7 

33 

38.48 

4 

39 

31.5 

75 

40 

10 

14 

42.9 

7 

33 

38.16 

4 

39 

03.0 

75 

30 

10 

14 

12.6 

7 

33 

38.99 

Th 

errnom.  65. 

Thermom.  74°. 

Mean  of  6 observations,  7 h.  33 m.  38.24s. 


t 


4 


7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
September  22,  1846. — Santa  Fe. 


* 

- 

Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

sun’s  upper  limb. 

h. 

m. 

6'. 

Deg. 

min. 

4 

38 

38.8 

75 

20 

4 

39 

03.0 

75 

30 

4 

39 

31.5 

75 

40 

4 

40 

01.0 

75 

50 

4 

40 

29.2 

76 

00 

4 

40 

58.6 

76 

10 

V-'' 

4 

41 

28.5 

76 

20 

4 

41 

59.5 

76 

30 

4 

42 

27.5 

76 

40 

4 

42 

57.0 

76 

50 

Lost  by  clouds. 

77 

00 

Thermometer  65°. 


% 


\ 


283  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

September  23,  1846. — Santa  Fe . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medse,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

, 

1 

Deg;. 

min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

5 

03 

21.8 

119 

03 

15 

7 

33 

35.7 

5 

04 

29.0 

119 

30 

35 

7 

33 

35.6 

5 

05 

29.0 

119 

54 

40 

7 

33 

36.3 

5 

06 

36.8 

120 

22 

45 

7 

33 

34.9 

5 

07 

27.0 

120 

42 

10 

7 

33 

37.2 

5 

08 

10.8 

121 

04 

05 

7 

33 

36.0 

5 

09 

11.0 

121 

22 

10 

7 

33 

42.6  rej. 

5 

09 

54.1 

121 

41 

25 

7 

33 

38.2 

5 

10 

36.3 

121 

58 

55 

7 

33 

37.2 

5 

11 

36.5 

122 

23 

50 

1 

7 

33 

36.0 

Thermometer  62°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyree, 
in  the  west. 

9 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

5 

14 

47.5 

101 

07 

00 

7 

33 

37.3 

5 

15 

44.0 

100 

43 

50 

7 

33 

33.4  rej. 

5 

16 

32  ..8 

100 

26 

20 

7 

33 

36.5 

5 

17 

20.5 

100 

07 

30 

7 

33 

34.9 

5 

18 

10.5 

99 

48 

20 

7 

33 

34.9 

5 

19 

01.8 

99 

27 

55 

7 

33 

32.8  rej. 

5 

19 

51.0 

99 

10 

05 

7 

33 

35.4. 

5 

20 

52.8 

98 

46 

20 

7 

33 

35.0 

6 

21 

49.5 

98 

25 

20 

7 

33 

36.1 

Thermometer  62°. 


h.  m.  s. 


Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  east  star 7 33  36.34 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  west  star 35.81 

Mean.... 7 33  36.08 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


September  30,  1846. — Camp  62,  seven  miles  below  Isclett^  west  bank 

Rio  del  JYorie. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


% 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  Antares  from 
moon’s  western  limb. 

Long 

itude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg; 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

04 

20.8 

67 

11 

30 

7 

08 

40.9 

3 

06 

18.6 

67 

12 

15 

7 

09 

06.1 

3 

11 

05.8 

67 

13 

20 

7 

06 

41.4 

3 

14 

13.5 

67 

14 

20 

7 

07 

44.3 

3 

16 

04.2 

67 

14 

50 

7 

07 

25.4 

3 

18 

14.5 

67 

15 

40 

7 

07 

53.7 

3 

20 

08.5 

67 

16 

30 

7 

08 

37.8 

3 

21 

48.5 

67 

17 

05 

7 

08 

47.2  • 

Thermometer  48°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  a Pegasi  from 
moon’s  western  limb. 

Longitude. 

✓ 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg.  min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

36 

07.5 

38 

56 

10 

7 

04 

55.2 

3 

38 

19.2 

38 

55 

00 

7 

05 

44.7 

3 

39 

58.8 

38 

54 

30 

7 

05 

21.3 

3 

43 

32.0 

38 

53 

20 

7 

' 04 

52.6 

3 

44 

47.5 

38 

52 

30 

7 

05 

44.7 

3 

49 

21.8 

38 

50 

55 

7 

05 

21.3 

3 

50 

53.0 

38 

50 

25 

7 

05 

05.6 

3 

53 

04.0 

38 

49 

40 

7 

04 

50.0 

Thermometer  48°. 


h.  m.  s. 


Longitude  by  8 observations  of  Antares 7 08  07.10 

Longitude  by  8 observations  of  a Pegasi 05  14.42 

Mean 7 06  40.76 


APPENDIX  No,  5— Continued. 


September  30,  1846. — Camp  62. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  ’'altitudes  of  a Andro- 
rnedse,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m. 

5“. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 06 

17.5 

105 

51 

05 

7 

36 

24.0 

4 07 

04.8 

106 

10 

45 

7 

36 

23.5 

4 07 

54.0 

106 

31 

35 

7 

36 

22.0 

4 08 

47.6 

106 

54 

05 

7 

36 

20.8 

4 09 

30.0 

107 

10 

30 

7 

36 

23.4 

4 10 

23.8 

107 

33 

05 

7 

36 

21.3 

4 11 

21.9 

107 

56 

25 

7 

36 

25.6 

Thermometer  48c 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Lyrse, 

Chronometer  fast. 

in 

the  west 

h. 

m. 

5. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s . 

4 

25 

41,8 

109 

55 

15 

7 

36 

25.7 

4 

26 

44.0 

109 

31 

25 

7 

36 

25.2 

4 

27 

28.8 

109 

13 

50 

7 

36 

24.7 

4 

28 

12.0 

108 

57 

00 

7 

36 

24.5 

4 

28 

55.8 

108 

40 

10 

7 

36 

22.9 

4 

29 

45.0 

108 

20 

50 

7 

36 

24.2 

4 

30 

39.0 

107 

59 

55 

7 

36 

23,4 

ft 

Thermometer  48°. 


h.  m.  s. 


Chronometer  fast  by  7 observations  of  east  star..  7 36  22.66 
Chronometer  fast  by  7 observations  of  west  star..  24.37 

Mean.* 7 36  23.52 


m 


286 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
September  30,  1846. — Camp  62. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

min.  sec. . 

4 

35 

38,0 

71 

29 

50 

34 

48  28 

4 

42 

11.0 

71 

34 

00 

34 

48  34 

4 

43 

09.0 

71 

34 

40 

34 

48  36 

4 

44 

10.0 

71 

35 

20 

34 

48  37 

4 

44 

46.0  * 

71 

35 

40 

34 

48  34 

4 

45 

18.5 

71 

36 

05 

34 

48  36 

4 

46 

16 . 8 

71 

36 

35 

34 

48  34 

4 

47 

21.5 

71 

36 

55 

34 

48  24 

Thermometer  48°. 


Mean  of  8 observations,  34°  48'  33". 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


October  4,  184 6.— Lamp  65,  west  bank  Rio  del  Norte,  about  two 

miles  below  Linitans . 

LUNAR  DISTANCE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Fomalhaut  and  moon’s 
western  limb. 

Double  altitude  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deo-. 

min 

| 

sec. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

4 

04 

09.8 

47 

15 

50 

66  37  10 

4 

06 

01.8 

47 

15 

50 

67  20  40 

4 

07 

09.2 

47 

16 

35 

67  46  20 

4 

08 

53.8 

47 

17 

10 

68  27  00 

4 

11 

57.5 

R 47 

18 

45 

69  38  40 

4 

13 

40.0 

47 

19 

10 

70  18  50 

4 

15 

32.0 

47 

20 

Oh 

71  01  30 

4 

17 

08.0 

47 

20 

35 

71  38  30 

Time,  p.  m. 


Aldebaran  and  moon’s 
western  limb. 


Double  altitude  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 


S 


h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

4 

28 

56.5  ! 

51 

59 

05 

76 

09 

40 

'4 

31 

05.0 

51 

58 

40 

76 

58 

40 

4 

32 

46 . 0 

51 

57 

45 

77 

36 

10 

4 

34 

43.0 

51 

56 

30 

78 

19 

50 

4 

36 

58.0 

51 

56 

10 

79 

10 

30 

4 

38 

35.0 

51 

55 

35 

79 

47 

50 

4 

40 

27.0 

51 

54 

55 

80 

38 

50 

4 

41 

41.5 

51 

54 

10 

80 

57  ‘ 

00 

4 

43 

13.0 

51 

53 

40 

81 

31 

30 

• 

Thermometer  60°. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


October  4,  1846. — Camp  65,  west  bank  of  the  Rio  del  JYorte. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


, « \ 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s.  x 

Deg. 

min 

. sec . 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

2 

22 

50.5 

68 

42 

50 

34 

07 

27 

2 

24 

00.0 

68 

44 

00 

34 

07 

34 

2 

24 

50.0 

68 

44 

55 

34 

07 

42 

2 

26 

07.8 

68 

45 

55  Jf! 

34 

07 

40 

2 

27 

14,2 

68 

46 

50 

34 

07 

42 

2 

28 

16.2 

68 

47 

45 

34 

07 

45 

2 

28 

58.0  | 

68 

48 

20 

34 

07 

46 

2 

30 

09.8  | 

68 

49 

10 

34 

07 

47 

2 

30 

58.7 

68 

49 

50 

34 

07 

44 

2 

31 

36.5 

68 

50 

10 

34 

07 

39 

2 

32 

19.8 

68 

50 

35 

34 

07 

34 

2 

33 

09.0 

68 

51 

10 

34 

07 

32 

Thermometer  64°.  ^ 

Mean  of  12  observations,  34°  07'  59". 


283  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No,  5 — Continued. 


October  4,  1846. — Camp  65,  west  hank  of  the  Rio  del  JYorte , 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
meda, in  the  east. 

• 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

01 

27,9 

85 

21 

25 

7 

36 

51.0 

3 

02 

21.8 

85 

43 

50 

7 

36 

49.7 

3 

03 

01.2 

85 

58 

30 

7 

36 

53.8  rej. 

3 

03 

54.0 

86 

21 

15 

7 

36 

51.1 

* 3 

04 

42.5 

86 

41 

25 

7 

36 

50,5 

3 

07 

23.0 

87 

45 

45 

7 

36 

50.2 

3 

08 

23.0 

88 

12 

05 

7 

36 

50.1 

3 

09 

10.5 

88 

31 

50 

7 

36 

49.6 

3 

09 

45.8 

88 

46 

20 

7 

36 

49.5 

* 3 

10 

31.5 

89 

04 

50 

7 

36 

50.1 

i 

Thermometer  62°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast  . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min 

. sec. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

3 

46 

00.0 

118 

58 

50 

7 

36 

52.2 

3 

46 

58.8 

118 

35 

35 

7 

36 

51.3 

3 

47 

59.0 

118 

12 

50 

7 

36 

53.5 

3 

48 

57.5 

117 

49 

50 

7 . 

36 

53.1 

3 

49 

43.8 

117 

32 

25 

7 

36 

54.7 

3 

50 

31.7 

117 

12 

30 

7 

36 

51.7  v 

3 

51 

14.8 

116 

56 

25 

7 

36 

53.6 

3 

52 

09.8 

116 

34 

45 

7 

• 

36 

53.1 

Thermometer  62°. 

h>  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  east  star  • . 7 36  50.20 

u 18  u west  star  ......... . 52.90 


Mean  7 36  51.56 


19 


290 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
October  5,  1846. — Camp  66,  near  Socorro. 


• 

Time,  p. 

m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andromedse. 

** 

9 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

9 

sec. 

3 

36 

56.2 

101 

37 

30 

3 

38 

15.8 

102 

10 

10 

3 

38 

58.7 

102 

28 

25 

3 

39 

47.5 

102 

38 

25 

o 

40 

46.8 

103 

13 

10 

3 

41 

30.0 

103 

31 

05 

3 

42 

05.5 

103 

46 

50 

Time,  p. 

m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Lyree, 

in  the  west. 

h. 

'111. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

3 

46 

28.0 

117 

10 

35 

3 

47 

29.7 

116 

47 

00 

3 

48 

22.0 

116 

26 

05 

3 

49 

19.5 

116 

04 

00 

3 

50 

12.8 

115 

43 

35 

3 

51, 

10.1 

115 

22 

10 

3 

£= 1 

51 

58.5 

115 

02 

V 

40 

Thermometer  58°. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

October  7,  1846. — Camp  68,  west  bank  of  the  Rio  del  Norte. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medge,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

D eg . min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

38 

30.5 

130  21 

55 

7 

37 

02.3 

4 

39 

38 .2 

130  50 

05 

7 

37 

02.2 

4 

40 

37.8 

131  14 

15 

7 

37 

03.6 

4 

41 

30.5 

131  36 

30 

7 

37 

02.7 

4 

42 

27.0 

132  00 

20 

7 

37 

01.8 

4 

43 

11.5 

132  19 

10 

7 

37 

01.3 

4 

43 

55.7 

132  37 

05 

7 

37 

01.9 

Thermometer  62°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  west 

a Lyrse, 

t Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min.  sec. 

h . 

m. 

4 

47 

29.0 

90 

21 

10 

7 

37 

06.4 

4 

48 

06.0 

90 

06 

40 

7 

37 

05.6 

4 

49 

02.0 

89 

45 

25  - 

7 

37 

06.0 

4 

49 

51.8 

89 

26 

05 

7 

37 

05.5 

4 

50 

38.7 

89 

08 

50 

7 

37 

07.2 

4 

51 

37.8 

88 

45 

50 

7 

37 

06.2 

4 

52 

31.4 

88 

24 

55 

7 

37 

05.2 

4 

53 

20.0 

88 

06 

00 

7 

34 

04.2’ 

4 

54 

06.0 

87 

49 

00 

7 

37 

05.8' 

Thermometer  62°. 


h.  m.  s. 


Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  east  star 7 37  02.26 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  west  star 05.79 


Mean 


r 


3 $ © 9 ® • « 


• • e e 


7 37  04.02 


£ 7 ] 292 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

October  7,  1846. — Camp  68,  west  bank  of  the  Rio  del  Norte . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec. 

Deg. 

mtn . 

sec. 

5 

20 

51.02 

69 

53 

45 

33 

41 

04  rei. 

5 

22 

12.8 

69 

54 

45 

33 

41 

16 

5 

23 

18,0 

69 

55 

10 

33 

41 

16 

5 

23 

46.0 

69 

55 

30 

n o 
OO 

41 

20 

5 

24 

37.0 

69 

55 . 50 

33 

41 

20 

5 

25 

26 . 0 

69 

56 

10 

33 

41 

18 

5 

26 

03.5 

69 

56 

35 

Q O 

do 

4l 

22 

5 

26 

45.0 

69 

56 

50 

oq 

41 

21 

5 

27 

24.0 

69 

57 

05 

33 

41 

20 

5 

28 

09.5 

69 

57 

20 

33 

41 

18 

Mean  of  9 observations,  33°  41'  19''. 


v 


293  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


October  10,  1846. — Camp  70. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


/ 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  h Aquarii, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

5“. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

Beg. 

min 

sec. 

3 

34 

46.0 

100 

46 

50 

35 

19 

19 

3 

35 

56.5 

100 

48 

00 

33 

19 

45 

3 

37 

15.5 

100 

49 

55 

33 

19 

36 

3 

oo 

oo 

38.2 

100 

51 

10 

33 

19 

41 

3 

39 

49.0 

100 

51 

30 

33 

19 

50 

3 

40 

57.05 

100 

53 

10 

33 

19 

28 

3 

41 

57.5 

i 100 

54 

10 

33 

19 

10 

3 

43 

12.8 

100 

54 

35 

33 

19 

05 

3 

45 

12.5 

100 

53 

50 

33 

19 

24 

3 

46 

15.0 

100 

53 

05 

o o 

19 

36 

3 

47 

02.0 

100 

52 

20 

33 

19 

47 

3 

47 

51.2 

100 

51 

50 

33 

19 

45 

3 

48 

58.8 

100 

51 

10 

| 33 

19 

41 

3 

50 

19.0 

100 

49 

40 

33 

19 

45 

3 

51 

55.2 

100 

47 

40 

33 

19 

45 

3 

52 

54.5 

100 

46 

20 

33 

19 

42 

3 

54 

32.8 

100 

42 

40 

33 

19 

68 

Thermometer  48°. 


Mean  of  17  observations,  33°  19f  38". 


294 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
Ooctober  10,  1846. — Camp  70. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

k. 

m. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

02 

30.2 

68 

36 

35 

33 

20 

15 

4 

03 

47.0 

68 

37 

50 

33 

20 

29 

4 

05 

11.2 

68 

38 

05 

33 

20 

11 

4 

05 

54.5 

68 

38 

50 

33 

20 

19 

4 

06 

44.0 

68 

39 

55 

33 

20 

37 

4 

07 

31.3 

68 

40 

10 

33 

20 

30 

4 

08 

19.2 

68 

40 

40 

33 

20 

30 

' A 

09 

12.5 

68 

41 

10 

33 

20 

28 

4 

09 

43.5 

68 

41 

25 

33 

20 

26 

4 

10 

34.0 

68 

41 

50 

33 

20 

24 

4 

11 

15.5 

68 

42 

30 

33 

20 

31  > 

4 

12 

08.5 

68 

43 

10 

33 

20 

36 

4 

13 

03.0 

68 

43 

00 

33 

20 

14 

4 

14 

05.0 

68 

44 

00 

33 

20 

25 

4 

14 

45 .8 

68 

44 

20 

33 

20 

24 

4 

15 

20.8 

68 

44 

35 

33 

20 

21 

4 

15 

56.8 

68 

44 

50 

33 

20 

19 

Latitude  of  camp. 
Deg.  min.  sec . 

Latitude  by  17  observations  of  b Aquarii 33  19  38 

u u Polaris 33  20  25 


33  20  02 


Mean 


APPENDIX  No.  5— -Continued. 

October  10,  1846. — Camp  70,  east  side  of  the  Rio  del  JYorte . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

• 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

* 

Deg. 

min . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

5 

01 

7.5 

75 

30 

7 

37 

42.5 

5 

01 

39.2 

75 

40 

7 

37 

41.9 

5 

02 

12.8 

75 

50 

7 

37 

42.6 

5 

02 

45.0 

76 

00 

7 

37 

42.0 

5 

03 

18.0 

76 

10 

7 

37 

42.0 

5 

03 

51.8 

76 

20 

7 

37 

42.8 

5 

04 

23.5 

76 

30 

7 

37 

42.5 

5 

04 

56.9 

76 

40 

7 

37 

41.8 

5 

05 

30.5 

76 

50 

7 

37 

42.2 

5 

06 

03.0 

77 

00 

7 

37 

41.5 

Thermometer  68°. 


Mean  of  10  observations,  74.  37 m.  42. 18s. 


/ 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

'■  V 9 ' fA7.' . ' ■ - % 

October  10,  1846. — Camp  70. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Equal  altitudes  of  sun. 


Time,  a.  m. — Oct. 

11. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

Time 

p.  m 
10. 

— Oct. 

.ft* 

Chronometer  fast. 

4. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

4. 

m. 

s. 

4. 

m. 

s. 

4 

57 

49.3 

74 

00 

9 

52 

44.5 

7 

37 

37.67 

4 

57 

18.2 

73 

50 

9 

53 

16.0 

7 

37 

38.07 

4 

56 

45.0 

73 

40 

9 

53 

49.0 

7 

37 

38.16 

4 

56 

12.5 

73 

30 

9 

54 

20.8' 

7 

37 

38.00 

4 

55 

41.5 

73 

20 

9 

54 

51.0 

7 

37 

37.79 

4 

55 

09.2 

73 

10 

9 

55 

25.5 

7 

37 

38.07 

4 

54 

37.3 

73 

00 

9 

55 

56.0 

7 

37 

38.55 

4 

54 

04.7 

72 

50 

9 

56 

26.3 

7 

37 

37.59 

4 

53 

33.5 

72 

40 

9 

56 

59.0 

7 

37 

38.50 

4 

53 

01.0 

72 

30 

9 

57 

30.0 

7 

37 

37.90 

4 

52 

28.8 

72 

20 

9 

58 

01.2 

7 

37 

37.63 

4 

51 

25.3 

72 

00 

9 

59 

04.5 

7 

37 

37.87 

Mean  of  12  observations,  74.  37m.  37.99s. 


DETERMINATION  OF  INDEX  ERROR. 


On  the  arc 
Off  the  arc 


Index  error  = + 10". 


Min.  sec. 
31  30 

31  50 


297  * [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

♦ 

October  11,  1846. — Camp  70.  ‘ 

* 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Equal  altitudes  of  the  sun. 


Time 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
sun’s  upper  limb. 

' 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h 

. m. 

S. 

; 

Deo*,  min. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

h. 

m. 

.s . 

4 

51 

25.3 

72  00 

9 

56 

54.5 

7 

37 

35.60 

4 

51 

57.0 

72  10 

9 

56 

21.7 

7 

37 

35.05 

4 

52 

28.8 

72  20 

9 

55 

50.3 

7 

37 

35.25 

4 

53 

01.0 

72  30 

9 

55 

19.0 

7 

37 

35.70 

4 

53 

33.5 

72  40 

9 

54 

46 . 0 

7 

37 

35.45 

4 

54 

04.7 

72  50 

9 

54 

18,8 

7 

37 

37.45  rej. 

4 

54 

37.3 

73  00  ‘ 

9 

53 

43.0 

7 

37 

35.85 

4 

55 

09.2 

73  10 

9 

53 

09.0 

7 

37 

34.80 

4 

55 

41.5 

73  20 

9 

52 

38.5 

7 

37 

35.70 

4 

56 

12.5 

73  30 

9 

52 

05.8 

7 

37 

34.85 

4 

56 

45.0  j 

73  40  j 

4 

57 

18.2 

73  50 

4 

57 

49.3 

74  00 

Ther.  60°. 

Ther. 

80°. 

Mean  of  9 observations,  Ih.  37 m.  55.36s. 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


October  12,  1846. — Camp  70. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro* 
medae,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg.  min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

07 

55.0 

100 

34 

25 

7 

37 

29.1 

3 

09 

03.8 

101 

01 

50 

7 

37 

32 .1  rej . 

3 

10 

07.5 

101 

30 

10 

7 

37 

27.8 

3 

11 

07.8 

101 

55 

40 

7 

37 

27.0 

3 

12 

08.2 

102 

19 

25 

7 

37 

30.4  rej. 

3 

13 

31.2 

102 

55 

30 

7 

37 

26.9 

3 

14 

29.8 

103 

20 

10 

7 

37 

26.4 

3 

15 

43.8 

103 

50 

05 

7 

37 

28.7 

3 

16 

40.5 

104 

14 

00  * 

7 

37 

28.2 

3 

17 

27.2 

104 

33 

10 

7 

37 

28.9 

Thermometer  42°. 


- 

Time, 

♦ 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrae, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S . 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

21 

45.0 

115 

52 

10 

7 

37 

31.9 

3 

22 

26.8 

115 

35 

40 

7 

37 

31.5 

3 

23 

06.0 

115 

20 

30 

7 

37 

31.9 

3 

23 

49.8 

115 

03 

20 

7 

37 

31.7 

3 

24 

40.2 

114 

43 

30 

7 

37 

31.3 

3 

25 

27.8 

114 

24 

50 

7 

37 

31.2 

3 

26 

15.8 

114 

06 

10 

7 

37 

32.5 

3 

27 

02.0 

113 

48 

20 

7 

37 

31.9 

3 

28 

05.5 

113 

22 

50 

7 

37 

30.2 

Thermometer  42°. 

t 

h.  min.  sec. 


Chronometer  fast  by  8 obs.  of  east  star 7 37  27.88 

Chronometer  fast  by  9 obs.  of  west  star 7 37  31.57 

Mean 7 37  29.72 


299  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5.— Continued. 

October  13,  1846. — Camp  70. 


i 


v v 

Time,  p. 

m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse 

, in  the  west. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

3 

46 

40.8 

104 

32 

30 

3 

47 

47.3 

104 

07 

30 

3 

48 

49.0 

103 

43 

40 

3 

49 

51.2 

103 

20 

20 

3 

50 

36.5 

103 

01 

50 

3 

51 

40.5 

i 

102 

37 

10 

Thermometer  42°. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


October  13,  1846. — Camp  71,  west  side  of  the  Rio  del  JYorte. 

\'  '* 


I 


Time,  p. 

m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a 

Andromedse. 

h. 

m. 

S. 



Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

3 

37 

49.1 

114 

46 

00 

3 

39 

17.5 

115 

23 

10 

3 

40 

14.0 

115 

45 

45 

3 

41 

17.3 

116 

12 

30 

3 

42 

08.0 

.'V 

116 

34 

15 

3 

42 

57.8 

116 

54 

40 

Thermometer  42°. 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

October  15,  1846. — Camp  73,  on  a small  stream — -first  camp  after 

leaving  the  Del  JYorte. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

v 

p.  m<, 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
med®,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

. 

k.  m. 

,9. 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

3 57 

13.2 

108 

39 

15 

8 

19 

06.7 

3 58 

20.8 

109 

08 

15 

8 

19 

05.2 

3 59 

04.2 

109 

27 

10 

8 

19 

03.6  rej. 

3 59 

45.7 

109 

44 

00 

8 

19 

05 . 0 

4 00 

32.5 

110 

03 

30 

8 

19 

05.4 

4-  01 

20.7 

110 

23 

05 

8 

19 

07.8- 

4 01 

58.5 

no 

38 

40 

8 

19 

07.7 

. # 

Time, 

p.  m. 

r 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 

Chronometer  fas 

in  the  vrest. 

h. 

m. 

i 

■ 

5*. 

Deg . 

min.  sec . 

h. 

m. 

5. 

4 

22 

34.5 

103 

28 

35 

8 

19 

10.6 

4 

23 

35.0  ' 

103 

04 

40 

8 

19 

09.6 

4 

24 

41.2 

102 

38 

40  | 

8 

19 

08.9 

4 

25 

24.5 

102 

22 

20 

8 

19 

10.2 

4 

26 

19.5 

102 

01 

20 

8 

19 

11.2 

4 

26 

57.1 

101 

47 

05 

8 

19 

12.1 

4 

27 

47.6 

101 

27 

45 

8 

19 

12.3 

Thermometer  66°. 


Chronometer  fast  by  6 observations  of  east  star. 

u 7 u west  star. 


h . m.  s. 

8 19  06.30 

8 19  10.70 


Mean.,.,  8 19  08.50 


) 


s 


302 


[ ?] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
October  15,  1846. — Camp  73. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Dee*. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

4 

07 

21.8 

67 

34 

40 

32 

54 

37  rej. 

4 

08 

05.2 

67 

35 

40 

32 

54 

53 

4 

08 

57.5 

67 

36 

20 

32 

54 

56 

4 

09 

33.5 

67 

36 

50 

32 

54 

59 

4 

10 

30.0 

67 

37 

45 

32 

55 

08 

4 

11 

25.8 

67 

38 

10 

32 

55 

04 

4 

12 

26.5 

67 

39 

15 

32 

55 

15 

4 

13 

50.0 

67 

39 

55 

32 

55 

10  . 

4 

14 

30.0 

67 

40 

10 

32 

55 

04 

Mean  of  8 observations,  32°  35'  04". 


303 


[ ? ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

October  17,  1846. — Camp  75. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p . m . 

Double  altitudes  of  a An- 
dromedce  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

k. 

m. 

S. 

Beg-,  min . sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

35 

11.8 

99  49 

50 

8 

25 

53 . 9 

3 

36 

11.8 

• 100  14 

55 

8 

25 

54.0 

3 

36 

58.0 

100  35 

10 

8 

25 

51.8 

3 

37 

49.5 

100  56 

10 

8 

25 

53.2 

o 

0 

38 

38.5 

101  16 

40 

8 

25 

53.4 

3 

39 

30.0 

101  38 

15 

8 

25 

53.3 

o 

0 

40 

13.5 

101  55 

50 

8 

25 

54.9 

Thermometer  38°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse 

Ch 

ronometer  fast. 

, 

in  the  west. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

45 

10.2 

117 

29 

55 

8 

25 

57.8 

3 

46 

15.2 

117 

03 

30 

8 

25 

55.3 

3 

47 

06.8 

116 

43 

50 

8 

25 

56.6 

3 

47 

56.2 

116 

24 

20 

8 

25 

56.2 

3 

48 

56.2 

116 

00 

25 

8 

25 

54.9 

3 

49 

47.8 

115 

40 

25 

8 

25 

55.4 

3 

51 

16.0 

115 

06 

25 

8 

25 

56.8 

h.  m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  east  star. 8 25  53.50 

Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  west  star  ....  8 25  56.14 


8 25  54.82 


Mean 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

4 

October  17,  1846. — Camp  75. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  b Aquarii, 

Latitude. 

- 

near  the  meridian. 

I 

- 

h. 

m. 

S. 

! 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

3 

57 

57.0 

102 

04 

40 

32 

42 

18 

3 

59 

04 . 0 

102 

05 

50 

32 

42 

08 

4 

00 

13.0 

102 

07 

00  < 

32 

42 

03 

4 

01 

40.0  i 

102 

07 

50 

32 

42 

05 

4 

02 

54.4 

102 

08 

30 

32 

41 

59 

4 

03 

56,0 

102 

08 

05 

32 

42 

18 

4 

05 

00.0 

102 

08 

10 

32 

42 

16 

4 

06 

16.5 

102 

07 

55 

32 

42 

15 

4 

07 

22.0 

102 

07 

40 

32 

42 

10 

4 

08 

17.0 

102 

07 

25 

32 

42 

02 

4 

09 

33.0 

102 

06 

35 

32 

41 

58 

4 

10 

46.5 

102 

04 

50 

32 

42 

15 

4 

11 

44.0 

103 

03 

25 

32 

42 

22 

Therniomet 

er  38° 

Time.  p.  m. 

a < 

! Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

! 

r 

! 

Latitude. 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

4 16  53.8 

67  16  30 

32  42  09 

4 18  04.0 

67  16  50 

32  41  58 

4 18  47.2 

67  17  50 

32  42  15 

4 19  45.0 

67  18  30 

32  42  17 

4 20  57.8 

67  18  50 

32  42  03 

4 21  50.0 

67  19  25 

32  42  05 

4 22  36.0 

67  20  20 

32  42  18 

4 23  10.5 

67  20  40 

32  42  17 

4 23  42.0 

67  21  15 

32  42  26 

Thermometer  38°. 


Latitude  of  camp. 

Deg . min.  sec. 


Latitude  by  13  obs.  of  b Aquarii  32  42  10 

Latitude  by  9 obs.  of  Polaris 32  42  12 

Mean  32  42  11 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


October  19,  1846. — Camp  77. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Doable  altitudes  of  a Lyras, 
in  the  west. 

1 Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m.  s. 

i 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

5 10  51.3 

32  39  10 

8 28  01.6 

5 11  42.0 

81  50  00 

8 28  02.0 

5 12  29.9 

81  32  10 

8 28  03.0 

5 13  20.8 

81  13  10 

8 28  04  1 

5 14  03.0 

80  56  40 

8 28  02.9 

5 15  06.8 

80  32  40 

8 28  03.7 

5 16  16.0 

80  05  55 

8 28  02.6 

Thermometer  50°. 

Mean  of  7 observations,  84.  28m.  02.84$. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude, 

h. 

m. 

S, 

Deg.  min. 

sec . 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

5 

20 

51.8 

68 

11 

20 

32 

50 

31 

5 

21 

48.0 

68 

12 

20 

32 

50 

46 

5 

22 

49.5 

68 

12 

40 

32 

50 

40 

5 

23 

34.2 

68 

13 

30 

32 

50 

55 

5 

24 

12.0 

68 

14 

00 

32 

50 

61 

5 

25 

43.8 

68 

14 

40 

32 

50 

59 

5 

26 

27.5 

68 

15 

20 

32 

50 

70 

5 

27 

15.0 

68 

15 

30 

32 

50 

66 

5 

28 

51.0 

68 

15 

40 

32 

50 

55 

Thermometer  50°. 

Mean  of  9 observations^  32°  50'  54". 


20 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued . 


October  20.,  1846. — Camp  78,  on  the  Rio  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


* 

Time , 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  b AquaVii, 
near  the  meridian. 

T 

J-j 

atitude 

I. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

! 

sec. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

s 

50 

18.0 

101 

48 

50 

32 

49 

48 

3 

51 

05.8 

101 

49 

40 

32 

49 

50 

3 

52 

01.0 

101 

50 

30 

32 

49 

53 

3 

52 

49.7 

101 

50 

45 

32 

50 

07 

3 

53 

41  .0 

101 

51 

50  • 

32 

49 

52 

3 

54 

28.0 

101 

51 

'55 

32 

50 

02 

3 

55 

19.8 

101 

52 

20 

32 

50 

01 

3 

*56 

23/0 

10  r 

5.2 

50 

32 

49 

54 

3 

57 

.25.8 

301 

52 

55 

32 

49 

53 

3 

58 

02.8 

101 

52 

40 

32 

50 

00 

3 

59 

20.8 

101 

51 

50 

32 

50 

16 

4 

00 

15.5 

101 

51 

20 

32 

50 

19 

4 

01 

22.0 

i 101 

50 

50 

32 

50 

14 

4 

02 

28.2 

\ 101 

50 

20 

32 

50 

03 

4 

03 

06.5 

101 

49 

50 

32 

50 

00 

4 

04 

19.2 

101 

48 

10 

i 32 

50. 

09 

Time,  p 

. m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

A. 

m. 

*• 

Deg . 

min. 

sec . 

Deg 

min . 

sec. 

4 

28 

08.0 

an 

\j  i 

43 

20 

32 

50 

01 

4 

29 

05.5 

67 

44 

10 

32 

50 

05 

4 

29 

38.0 

67 

44 

50 

32 

50 

15 

4 

30 

16.8 

67 

45 

20 

32 

50 

21 

4 

31 

07.0 

67 

45 

40 

32 

50 

16 

4 

31 

52 . 1 

67 

46 

15 

32 

50 

21 

4 

32 

34.0 

67 

46 

30 

32 

50 

15 

* 4 

33 

12.8 

67 

46 

55 

32 

50 

16 

4 

33 

47.0 

...  to:  ' : ... 

1 67 

47 

20 

32 

50 

18 

Thermometer  50°. 


Deg.  min . sec. 

.L3lity.de  by  16  observations  of  b Aquarii,  32  50  01 
Latitude  by  9 observations  of  Polaris,  32  50  14 


M eft  a 


K 


32  50  08  lat;  of  camp. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued., 
October  20,  1846. — Camp  78. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medte  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fasto 

h.  m . 5. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m°  s. 

4 10  38.3 

117  46  30 

8 30  29.2 

4 11  39.0 

118  11  55 

8 30  29.6 

4 12  25 . 7 

118  31  35 

8 30  29.6 

4 13  15.0 

118  52  35 

8 30  29.0 

4 14  11.2 

119  15  65 

8 30  29.8 

4 15  04.0 

119  39  00 

8 30  27.8 

4 15  53,0 

119  59  40 

8 30  27.7 

Thermometer  50°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

i 

Double  altitude^,  of  a Lyras 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

J 

s. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec. 

h . 

m. 

s. 

4 

19 

33.8 

101 

20 

05 

8 

30 

29.2 

4 

20 

17.8 

101 

04 

10 

8 

30 

32.2 

4 

.21 

00.8 

100 

47 

30 

8 

30 

32.2 

4 

21 

49.7 

100 

28 

20 

8 

30 

31.8 

4 

22 

38.0 

100 

08 

55 

8 

30 

30.0 

4 

23 

17.8 

99 

53 

10 

8 

30 

29.4 

4 

24 

04.0 

99 

35 

35 

8 

30 

30.2 

Thermometer  50°. 


Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  east  star.. 
Chronometer  fast  by  7 obs.  of  west  star  . 


«*£•  o , B 
5 * s e t> 


ft,.  min.  sec.. 
I 30  28.96 
8 30  30.71 


Mean 


5-  « * o 


8 30  29.83 


/ 


1 7_j  308 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
October  22 , 1846. — Camp  80,  on  the  Gila. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE* 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  6-Aquarii. 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg;. 

min. 

sec . 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

3 

46 

12.0 

102 

10 

50 

32 

38 

29 

3 

47 

08.8 

112 

12 

20 

32 

38 

19 

3 

48 

07.5 

103 

13 

30 

32 

38 

15  * 

3 

49 

02.8 

102 

14 

50 

32 

37 

59 

3 

49 

47.8 

102 

15 

30 

32 

37 

56 

3 

50 

40.7 

102 

36 

25 

32 

37 

55 

3 

51 

24.9 

102 

16 

30 

3.2 

37 

42 

3 

52 

14.0 

102 

16 

10 

32 

38 

10 

3 

53 

15.8 

' 

Q 

O 

54 

29.0 

102 

15 

55 

32 

38 

21 

O 

D 

55 

17.5 

102 

15 

50 

32 

38 

19 

3 

56 

09.8 

102 

15 

30 

32 

38 

19 

3 

56 

54,0 

102 

15 

00 

32 

38 

23 

3 

57 

38.0 

102 

14 

30 

32 

38 

28 

3 

58 

21.0 

102 

14 

00 

32 

38 

23 

3 

59 

20.5 

102 

13 

20 

32 

38 

16 

4 

00 

18.5 

102 

12 

20 

32 

38 

18 

4 

01 

03.8 

102 

11 

40' 

32 

38 

07 

Thermometer  62°. 


Mean  of  17  observations,  32°  38'  13". 


I 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


Oztohcr  22,  1846. — Camp  80,  on  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
rnedse  in  the  east . 

Chronometer  fast. 

- m 

h.  m.  ' s. 

t 

Deg;,  min . sec , 

h.  m . s. 

4 04  53.8 

116  53  05 

8 34  42.2 

4 05  58.8 

117  20  20 

8 34  42.6 

4 06  51.0 

117  43  05 

8 34  40.8 

4 07  37.0 

118  02  20 

8 34  41.2 

4 08  45.6 

118  30  10 

8 34  43.9 

4 09  37.8 

118  53  00 

8 34  41.9 

4 10  24.8 

119  13  10 

8 34  41.1 

Thermometer  62°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg.  min.  sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

4 

13 

45.0 

102  01  25 

8 

34 

42.1 

4 

14 

34.8 

101  43  » 10 

8 

34 

43.2 

4 

15 

25.8 

101  23  30 

8 

34 

43.7 

4 

16 

13.2 

101  04  30 

8 

34 

44.3 

4 

16 

55.0 

100  48  40 

8 

34 

45.4 

4 

17 

43.2 

100  29  10 

8 

34 

43.6 

4 

18 

28.0 

ICO  12  00 

8 

34 

44.1 

h. 

m.  s. 

Chronometer  fast  by 

7 

observations  of  east  star 

8 

34  41.96 

u 

a 

7 

u west  star 

8 

34  43.77 

Mean 8 34  42.86 


APPENDIX  No*.  5 — Continued. 


October  24,  1846.  — Camp  81,  on  the  Gila . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time,  p. 

m. 

Distance  of  Fomalhaut,  from  moopJs  west- 
ern limb. 

h. 

m. 

• 

s. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

2 

32 

14.8 

2 

34 

03.6 

67 

42 

20 

2 

35 

16.8 

67 

42 

15 

2 

37 

04.5 

67 

41 

45 

2 

38 

39.0 

67 

40 

55 

2 

39 

57.8 

67 

•40 

30 

2 

41 

12.5 

67 

40 

05 

2 

42 

38.5 

67 

39 

55 

2 

44 

02.0 

67 

39 

10 

2 

46 

01.0 

67 

38 

20 

2 

47 

17.0 

67 

37 

40 

2 

48 

35.8 

67 

37 

10 

2 

50 

04.0 

67 

36 

50 

Thermometer  68°. 


Longitude  by  mean  of  observations,  7 h.  1 2m.  17. 4s, 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
October  24,  1846. — Camp  81,  on  the  Gila. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  rn. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medse  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  firs 

h.  m.  ‘s. 

* 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h . m . 5“ . 

3 13  24.8 

98  23  55 

8 35  05 . 6 

3 14  25.2 

98  50  00 

8 35  05.8 

3 15  15.5 

69  10  50 

8 35  04.3 

3 16  04.7 

99  31  30 

8 35  04 . 1 

3 16  50.6 

99  51  30 

8 35  02,2 

3 17  41.0 

100  11  50 

8 35  04- . 1 

3 18  38.0 

100  36  15 

8 35  03 . 6 

3 19  33.0 

100  58  10 

8 35  04 . 3 

3 20  17.5 

101  17  35 

8 35  03.7 

1 * 

Thermometer  54°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyras 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

23 

15.0 

118 

53 

55 

8 

35 

04.5 

3 

24 

01.2 

118 

37 

20 

8 

35 

08.3  lei- 

3 

24 

54.0 

118 

15. 

10 

8 

35 

04.5 

3 

25 

34.0 

117 

59 

50 

8 

35 

05.3 

3 

26 

15.5 

117 

43 

20 

8 

35 

04.7 

3 

26 

59.8 

117 

25 

50 

8 

35 

04.3 

3 

27 

40.8 

117 

09 

30 

8 

35 

03.4 

3 

28 

24.0 

116 

52 

30 

8 

35 

05.4 

3 

29 

08.0 

116 

35 

30 

8 

35 

03.7 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Chronometer 

fast  by  9 observations  of  east  star.... 

8 

35 

03,9? 

Chronometer 

fast  by  8 observations  of  west  star... 

8 

35 

04 . 48 

Mean  ......  ...... 

8 

35 

04,22?: 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


t 


October  24,  1846. — Camp  81,  on  the  Gila . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  b Aquarii, 
near  the  meridian. 

• 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

• 

min.  sec. 

i 

Beg 

. min. 

B 

sec. 

3 

34 

52.0 

101 

51  50 

32 

45 

03 

3 

35 

59.5 

101 

53  50 

32 

44 

56 

3 

37 

17.9 

101 

55  50 

*32 

45 

01 

3 

38 

51.8 

101 

57  30 

32 

45  * 

17  rei. 

3 

40 

02.5 

102 

00  20 

32 

44 

31 

3 

41 

12.0 

102 

00  40 

32 

44 

57 

3 

42 

21.2 

102 

02  25 

32 

44 

31 

3 

43 

45.0 

103 

03  20 

32 

44 

26 

3 

45 

10.8 

102 

03  15 

32 

44 

41 

3 

46 

30.0 

102 

03  40 

32 

44 

31 

3 

47 

36.0 

102 

04  00 

32 

44 

16 

3 

48 

22.8 

102 

03  10 

32 

44 

34 

3 

49 

13.2 

102 

03  10 

32 

44 

22 

3 

50 

06.8 

102 

02  20 

32 

44 

31 

3 

51 

14.2 

102 

01  40 

32 

44 

28 

3 

52 

10.0 

102 

00  55 

32 

44 

20 

3 

53 

07.0  j 

102 

00  15 

32 

44 

08  rei. 

3 

54 

18.8 

101 

58  10 

32 

44 

24 

3 

55 

37.6 

101 

55  25 

32 

44 

45 

3 

57 

13.5 

101 

52  40 

32 

44 

43 

Mean  of  18  observations,  32°  44^  37/;. 


Latitude  by  12  obs.  of  Polaris 32  45  06 

Latitude  by  18  obs.  of  b Aquarii ...... . 32  44  37 


Mean  of  north  and  south  stars.  . 


. 32  44  52  lat.  of  camp. 


313  [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

October  24,  1846. — Camp  81,  on  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time . 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min.  sec. 

Deg 

min . 

sec . 

2 

56 

31.0  • 

66 

39 

20 

32 

45 

14 

' 2 

57 

30.5 

66 

40 

20 

32 

45 

14 

2 

58 

18.8 

66 

40 

45 

32 

45 

01 

2 

58 

58.5 

66 

41 

10 

32 

44 

57 

2 

59 

39.2 

66 

42 

00 

32 

45 

06 

3 

00 

34.5 

66 

42 

45 

32 

45 

09 

3 

01 

24.0 

66 

43 

15 

32 

45 

07 

3 

02 

21.5 

66 

44 

10 

32 

45 

13 

3 

03 

18.8 

66 

44 

55 

32 

45 

15 

3 

03 

58.8 

66 

45 

20 

32 

45 

12 

3 

04 

57.0 

66 

45 

50 

32 

45 

08 

3 

05 

55.6 

66 

46 

20 

32 

44 

59 

Thermometer  62°. 


Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  45r  06". 


[ ?'-]  314 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
October  26,  1846. — Camp  83,  on  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


V 1 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  a Pegasi  from 
moon’s  western  limb. 

Double  altitudes  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 

h. 

✓ 

m. 

S. 

Beg 

min.  sec. 

Beg.  min.  sec. 

4 

14 

49.0 

56 

00 

10 

63  59  20 

4 

16 

28.2 

55 

59 

10 

63  Id  40 

4 

18 

20.8 

55 

58 

30 

62  47  00 

4 

19 

43.5 

55 

58 

10 

62  26  10 

4 

22 

33.0 

55 

57 

30 

61  43  55 

4 

24 

11.8 

55 

57 

10 

61  19  20 

Thermometer  66°. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

• 

Double  altitudes  of 

— in  the  west. 

h. 

m.  s. 

Beg. 

\ , 

min. 

sec. 

5 

19  35.8 

96 

03 

40 

5 

20  24.0 

95 

46 

20 

- 

Time,  p m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse  in  the  west. 

h. 

> 

m.  5. 

Beg.  min.  sec. 

5 

25  51.0- 

70  07  10 

315  . [ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

October  27,  1846. — Camp  83,  on  the  Gila. 

r ;l  ...  I 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


/< 


Time., 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 
laris. 

** 

of  Po- 

I 

atitude . 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg; 

. min . 

sec. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

2 

40 

42.0 

66 

50 

10 

32 

55 

11 

2 

41 

27.8 

66 

50 

50 

32 

55 

15 

2 

42 

29.2 

66 

51 

35 

32 

53 

15 

2 

44 

02.0 

66 

52 

50 

32 

53 

18 

2 

45 

15 .3 

66 

53 

40 

32 

53 

12 

2 

46 

10.  S 

68 

54 

30 

32 

53 

17 

2 

46 

58.5 

66 

55 

10 

32 

53 

20 

2 

47 

46.7 

66 

55 

45 

32 

53 

19 

2 

48 

28.8 

66 

56 

10 

32 

53 

16 

Thermometer  51°. 


Mean  of  10  observations,  52°  55'  16". 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued 


October  27,  1846.— CVrmp  83,  on  the  Gila . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medse,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s'. 

2 

54 

45.6 

94 

11 

05 

8 

38 

24.3 

2 

55 

30.5 

94 

29 

00 

8 

38 

26.3 

2 

56 

16.7 

94 

48 

05 

8 

38 

26.8 

2 

57 

08.5 

95 

09 

05 

8 

9Q 

28.1 

2 

57 

50.4 

95 

27 

10 

8 

38 

26.8 

2 

58 

36.8 

95 

47 

25 

8 

38 

24.8 

2 

59 

57.8 

96 

11 

45 

8 

38 

26.4 

3 

00 

2,2.0 

96 

30 

10 

8 

38 

27.6 

3 

01 

08.2 

96 

49 

55 

9 

38 

26  .5 

Thermometer  51°. 


Time, 

• 

p.  mu 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyree. 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m. 

S . 

Deg. 

min. 

.. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 28 

13.0 

113 

46 

20 

8 

38 

28.4 

3 29 

20.2 

113 

20 

05 

8 

38 

28.6 

3 30 

12.0 

112 

59 

55 

8 

38 

28.8 

3 31 

21.0 

112 

33 

05 

8 

38 

29.2 

3 32 

22.6 

112 

09 

05 

8 

38 

28.8 

3 33 

11.0 

111 

48 

40 

8 

38 

25.0  rej. 

3 33 

55.8 

111 

32 

10 

8 

38 

28.0 

3 34 

45.0 

111 

13 

05 

8 

38 

28.4 

3 35 

33.0 

110 

54 

10 

8 

. 

38 

28.0 

* 

Thermometer  51°. 


Mean  of  17  observations,  8h.  58 m.  27,46s. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
October  27,  1846. — Camj)  83,  on  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


9: 

Time, 

* ♦ 

p,  m. 

Distance  of 

a Pegasi  from 

Double  altitude  of  moon’s 

moon’s  western 

limb . 

lower  limb. 

k. 

m. 

S. 

Dem.  mw. 

sec. 

Beg. 

n>,in.  sec. 

* 4 

46 

05.5 

42 

43 

40 

74 

31 

50 

4 

47 

41 .0 

42 

42 

50 

74 

10 

10 

4 

49 

05.5 

42 

42 

30 

73 

51 

40 

4 

50 

53.0 

42 

42* 

00 

73 

27 

40 

4 

54 

56.0 

42 

40 

30 

72 

31 

10 

4 

56 

52.5 

42 

39 

35 

’ *70 

L 

04 

40 

4 

58 

31.8 

42 

3.8 

50 

71 

40 

00 

5 

00 

28.3 

42 

38 

20 

71 

13 

10 

5 

02 

42.0 

42 

37 

20 

70 

41 

00 

5 

04 

09.2 

' 42 

37 

10 

70 

19 

20 

5 

05 

59.5 

42 

36 

35 

69 

52 

15 

Thermometer  50°. 

• 

Longitude,  by  mean  of  observations,  7 h.  13m.  04.24 s. 


[ 7 ] 318 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
October  30,  1846. — Cam.p  86,  on  the  Gila . 

■ i 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


I “ • ' ' 

« 

Time,  p.  m.  Double  altitudes  of  in  the  east.  * 


h. 

m. 

s. 

. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec . 

8 

26 

01.0 

98 

19 

05 

8 

26 

50.0 

98 

38 

10 

8 

28 

23.0 

/ ' , 

4k  . 

99 

14 

50 

..  - w — 

•DETERMINE T ION 

QF  LATITUDE. 

m 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

. min.  sec. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec . 

8 

34 

30.5 

69 

14 

50 

33 

12 

05 

8 

35 

48.0 

69 

14 

30 

33 

12 

05 

. 8 

36 

51.2 

69 

14 

30 

33 

12 

14 

8 

37 

37.8 

69 

14 

10  * 

33 

12 

11 

8 

39 

01.8 

69 

15 

50 

33 

12 

13 

8 

40 

03.5 

69 

13 

20 

33 

12 

16 

8 

41 

19.0 

69 

13 

05 

33 

12 

11 

8 

42 

55.0 

69 

12 

35 

33 

12 

13 

8 

44 

29.0 

69 

11 

40 

33 

12 

01 

8 

45 

40.5 

69 

11 

20 

33 

12 

04 

8 

46 

27.0 

69 

11 

15 

33 

12 

10 

8 

47 

26.8 

69 

11 

05 

Oo 

12 

15 

*8 

48 

22.7 

. * 

69 

10 

45 

33 

12 

47 

■s 

Mean  of 

Thermometer  55°. 
13  observations,  33° 

12'  10". 

% 

319 


m 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
j October  30,  1846. — Camp  86.,  on  the  Gila, 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Aldeba- 
ran,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

V 

‘ h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

8 

55 

13.8 

124 

55 

50 

8 

41 

02.9 

8 

5.6 

14.5 

125 

16 

35 

8 

41 

04.9 

8 

57 

24.0 

125 

41 

05 

8 

41 

04.9 

8 

58 

26.8 

126 

03 

30 

8 

41 

03.7 

Clo 

uds. 

9 

00 

44.8 

126 

51 

15 

: -8 

41 

04,7 

9 

01 

54.0 

127 

15 

15 

8 

41 

04.5 

9 

03 

32.8 

127 

48 

55' 

8 

41 

05.1 

9 

05 

35.8 

128 

31 

10 

8 

41 

04.2 

9 

06 

41  9 

128 

53 

15 

8 

41 

05.0 

Thermometer  55°. 


Mean  of  9 observations,  8 k,  41  m,  04.43s. 


* 


# 


• » 


/ 


[ 7 ]_  320 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
October  30,  1846. — Caw/p  86,  on  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time; 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  Aldebarar*  from 
moon’s  western  limb. 

...  ...  - « 

Double  altitudes  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec . 

Deg.  min. 

sec. 

9 

■23 

27.0 

72 

07 

35 

58  47 

40 

9 

25 

06.0 

72 

06 

50 

58  10 

50 

9 

27 

55.8 

72 

05 

35 

57  06 

30 

9 

30 

03.5 

72 

04 

25 

56  18 

00 

9 

31 

55.8 

72 

03 

25 

• 55  36 

10 

9 

33 

36 . 0 

72 

02 

40 

54  58 

20 

9 

35 

27  8 

72 

01 

40 

54  15 

30 

9 

37 

40.8 

‘ 72 

00 

25 

53  24 

50 

9. 

39 

28.8 

71 

59 

30 

52  43 

20 

Thermometer  50°a 


* 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


October  31,  1846. — Camp  87,  on  the  San  Francisco , about  two  m-il&s 

from  its  mouth. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p,  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Z>/AqiiarA 
near  the  meridian: 

Latitude 

> 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

Beg . 

min . 

see » 

3 

17 

31.8 

100 

58 

50 

33 

14 

29 

3 

18 

38.7 

101 

01 

00 

33 

14 

04  rej. 

3 

19 

28.5 

101 

01 

20  I 

33 

14 

19 

3 

20 

33.5 

101 

02 

05 

33 

14 

25- 

3 

21 

45.0 

101 

02 

50 

33 

14 

26 

3 

22 

50.9 

101 

03 

30 

33 

14 

99 

3 

24 

00.7 

101 

03 

45 

So 

14 

25 

3 

25 

54.2 

101 

04 

10 

33 

14 

IS 

3 

27 

13.7 

101 

04 

30 

33 

13 

53  ref 

3 

28 

28.0 

101 

03 

10 

33 

14 

15 

3 

29 

51.5 

101 

02 

10 

33 

14 

16 

3 

31 

00.0 

101 

01 

00 

33 

14 

20s 

3 

32 

14.2 

100 

59 

45 

33 

14 

IS 

3 

33 

31.5 

100 

57 

40 

33 

14 

27 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  12  observations,  33°  14'  21". 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
October  31,  1846.  — Camp  87. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 

2- 


Time) 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a And.ro- 
medse  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fhst. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

Beg. 

min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

5. 

3 

40 

05.0 

118 

29 

40 

41 

31.2 

3 

41 

18.2 

119 

01 

00 

8 

41 

29.7 

3 

42 

04.2 

119 

20 

00 

8 

41 

30.4 

3 

43 

12.5 

119 

49 

10 

8 

41 

29.2 

3 

44 

13.0 

120 

13 

25 

8 

41 

31.9 

3 

45 

10.8 

120 

38 

20 

8 

41 

30.3 

3 

46 

06 . 0 

121 

01 

30 

8 

41 

30.3 

3 

47 

01.0 

121 

24 

55 

8 

41 

29.4 

3 

48 

05.8 

121 

51 

40 

8 

41 

30.5 

Thermometer  50°. 


T ime , 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast 

h. 

m. 

S 

Beg. 

min 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

57 

51 

0 

97 

34 

30 

8 

41 

32.8 

3 

58 

41 

8 

97 

14 

50 

8 

41 

32.8 

3 

59 

29 

0 

96 

56 

35 

8 

41 

32  .9 

4 

00 

12 

8 

96 

39 

50 

8 

41 

33.2 

4 

01 

10 

7 

96 

17 

25 

8 

41 

33.1 

4 

02 

24 

0 

95 

49 

30 

8 

41 

34.2 

4 

03 

13 

3 

95 

30 

05 

8 

41 

33.2 

4 

03 

52 

0 

95 

15 

10 

8 

41 

33.2 

4 

04 

46 

9 

94 

54 

10 

8 

41 

33.7 

4 

05 

25 

5 

94 

39 

10 

8 

41 

33.4 

4 

06 

18 

* 

0 

94 

18 

30 

8 

41 

32.4 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  20  observations,  84.  41m.  54.75$. 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
October  31,  1846. — Camp  87. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time,  p.  m. 


Distance  of  a Aquilee  from, 
moon’s  western  limb. 


Double  altitudes  of  the  moon’s 
upper  limb. 


h. 

m. 

5. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

4 

28 

54.2 

70 

KO 

<W  As 

15 

39 

35 

55 

4 

31 

02.5 

70 

58 

40 

100 

17 

30 

4 

34 

36.0 

70 

59 

40 

101 

26 

10 

4 

36 

37.3 

71 

00 

55 

102 

03 

30 

4 

40 

35.8 

71 

01 

20 

103 

18 

40 

4 

42 

14 . 0 

71 

01 

30 

103 

48 

00 

4 

44 

25 . 0 

71 

02 

00 

104 

28 

15 

4 

48 

19.6 

71 

04 

05 

105 

38 

50 

4 

50 

07.8 

71 

04 

30 

106 

10 

20 

4 

51 

38.0 

71 

05 

40 

106 

37 

40 

4 

55 

08.5 

71 

06 

20 

107 

03 

10 

4 

56 

00.0 

71 

07 

20 

107 

53 

00 

4 

57 

57.0 

71 

08 

10 

108 

26 

30 

- 

Thermometer  43°. 

\ 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  a Aldebaran 

Double  altitudes  of  the  moon’s 

from  moon’s  western  limb. 

upper  limb. 

h. 

m. 

S' 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

5 

17 

49 . 0 

59 

10 

20 

113 

39 

20 

5 

20 

59 , 6 

59 

09 

40 

114 

24 

40 

5 

24 

43.8 

59 

08 

25 

115 

16 

50 

5 

26 

19.5 

59 

07 

45 

115 

38 

20 

5 

28 

07.8 

59 

07 

05 

116 

02 

30 

5 

29 

39.4 

59 

06 

20 

116 

22 

10 

5 

32 

01.8 

59 

05 

35 

116 

51 

55 

5 

33 

33.5 

59 

04 

45 

117 

11 

00 

5 

35 

08.8 

59 

04 

05 

117 

30 

10 

Thermometer  40°. 


Longitude  by  west  star 
Longitude  by  east  star, 


h (II  e a n . * « » » « • e » • 


• 4>  * « ® 9 * Q 


h . m.  s. 

7-  23  15.07 

20  18.09 

7 21  47.30 


iQ  kO  <©  «£> 


t 


I 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

■ ‘ . • \' 

October  31,  1846. — Camp  87. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


h. 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 

5 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

\ 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

52 

35  .2 

69 

22 

35 

34 

14 

28 

53 

26 . 0 

69 

22 

55 

34 

14 

32 

54 

28.2 

69 

23 

30 

34 

14 

42 

55 

36.5 

69 

23 

40 

34 

14 

39 

56 

21.0 

69 

9 Q 

55 

34 

14 

41 

57 

06.8 

69 

24 

05 

34- 

14 

33 

57 

42.8 

69 

24 

10 

34 

14 

38 

58 

24.5 

69 

24 

20 

34 

14 

39 

59 

16.2 

69 

24 

30 

34 

14 

36 

00 

01.3 

69 

24 

40 

34 

14 

36 

00 

33.0 

69 

24 

55 

34 

14 

40 

Thermometer  39°. 

Mean  of  11  observations^  33°  14'  37". 


FOR  INDEX  ERROR. 

Min.  sec. 


On  the  arc  . . 31  55 

Off  the  arc  . * , 31  30 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


November  2, 1846. — Camp  89,  Disappointment. creek. 

' ,<  \ 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
rnedse  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h . 

m. 

i 

s. 

Deo*. 

min. 

sec. 

h . 

m. 

5. 

3 

20 

05.0 

113 

10 

50 

8 

42 

04.9 

3 

20 

50':  8 

113 

31 

10 

8 

42 

01 .4  rej. 

3 

21 

40.3 

113 

51 

05 

i , . 8 

42 

05.3 

3 

22 

45.0 

i 114 

17 

20 

8 

42 

05.5 

3 

23 

44.0 

114 

43 

10  . 

8 

42 

02.7 

3 

24 

29.5 

115 

01 

30 

8 

42 

04.4 

3 

25 

13.0 

115 

20 

05 

8 

42 

03.5 

3 

26 

03.8 

115 

41 

15 

8 

42 

03.8 

3 

26 

52.0 

116 

01 

55 

/ 

8 

42 

02.7 

Thermometer  40°. 


\ 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyres 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

i 

h. 

m. 

S. 

D 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

28 

38.4 

106 

06 

10 

8 

42 

09.9  rej. 

3 

30 

25.0 

105 

22 

35 

8 

42 

04.6 

3 

31 

09.6 

105 

05 

20 

8 

42 

05.6 

3 

31 

53.0 

104 

49 

00 

8 

42 

06.1 

3 

32 

38.0 

104 

31 

25 

8 

42 

06.9 

3 

33 

18.0 

104 

15 

35 

8 

42 

06.3 

3 

34 

05.3 

103 

57 

10 

8 

42 

06.1 

3 

•34 

50.2 

103 

39 

50 

8 

42 

07.8 

3 

35 

35.5 

103 

22 

10 

8 

t 

42 

05.5 

Thermometer  40°. 


Mean  of  16  observations,  84.  42m.  04. 96s. 


326 

< , I 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

November  2,  1846. — Camp  89. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec . 

J)eg 

min.  sec. 

3 

39 

40.8 

- 68 

27 

40 

33 

14 

57 

3 

40 

47.6 

68 

28 

05 

33 

14 

49 

3 

41 

48.5 

68 

28 

45 

33 

14 

50 

3 

42 

29.0 

68 

29 

10 

33 

14 

50 

3 

43 

31.6 

•68 

29 

45 

33 

14 

48 

3 

44' 

13.7 

. 68 

30 

20 

33 

14 

54 

3 

45 

06.9 

68 

31 

10 

33 

15 

02 

3 

46 

03.5 

68 

31 

20 

33 

14 

53 

3 

46 

57.1 

68 

31 

55 

33 

14 

54 

3 

47 

43.5  . 

68 

32 

20 

33 

14 

53 

3 

48 

55.8 

68 

32 

55 

33 

14 

57 

3 

49 

13.0 

m. 

68 

33 

20 

33 

14 

57 

Thermometer  40°. 


' > 

Mean  of  12  observations,  33°  14'  54". 


p 


s_- 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  5,  1846. — Camp  91,  on  the  San  Pedro . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  b Aquarii, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

Deg 

min . 

sec. 

Deg 

. min 

. sec. 

2 

58 

31.0 

101 

33 

45 

32 

57 

15 

2 

59 

48.8 

101 

34 

55 

32 

57 

28 

3 

01 

16.1  J 

101 

35 

50 

32 

57 

35 

3 

02 

57.5 

101 

36 

50 

32 

57 

31 

3 

04 

17.6 

101 

37 

40 

32 

57 

25 

3 

05 

24.8 

101 

38 

00 

32 

57 

19 

3 

07 

06.4 

101 

37 

30 

32 

57 

29 

3 

07 

51.5 

101 

36 

55 

32 

57 

39 

3 

10 

02.8 

101 

36 

30 

32 

57 

14 

3 

10 

42.8 

101 

35 

45 

32 

57 

19 

3 

11 

30.7 

101 

35 

20 

32 

57 

11 

3 

12 

34.0 

101 

34 

10 

32 

57 

11 

3 

13 

30.6 

101 

32 

30 

32 

57 

26 

Thermometer  52°. 


Mean  of  13  observations,  32°  57/  23". 


1 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

'November  5,  1846. — Camp  JYo.  91,  on  the  San  Pedro . 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

P-  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
meda, in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

A. 

m. 

s. 

Deg; . 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

.3 

18 

27.5 

117 

33 

45 

8 

41 

45.6 

3 

19 

29.2 

118 

00 

30 

8 

41 

42.8 

3 

20 

29.5 

118 

25 

40 

8 

41 

44.2 

-3 

21 

30.8 

118 

51 

30 

8 

41 

44.1 

3 

22 

17.5 

119 

10 

50 

8 

41 

44.8 

3 

23 

24  0 

119 

39 

10 

8 

41 

43.9 

3 

24 

24.0 

120 

04 

30 

8 

41 

43.7 

3 

25 

38.8 

120 

35 

40 

8 

41 

44.4 

3 

26 

43.0 

121 

03 

05 

8 

41 

43.4 

Th  ermometer  52°. 


Time, 

> 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyra, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

k. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

29 

32.5 

100 

48 

35 

8 

41 

48.4 

3 

30 

32.8 

100 

24 

30 

8 

41 

46 . 6 

i 3 

31 

46.0 

99 

57 

05 

8 

41 

49.1 

3 

32 

43.8 

99 

33 

45 

8 

41 

46 . 8 

3 

33 

33.0 

99 

14 

15 

8 

41 

45.8 

3 

34 

30.8 

98 

52 

25 

8 

41 

47.1 

3 

35 

25.7 

98 

31 

35 

8 

41 

48.4 

3 

36 

14.8 

98 

12 

10 

8 

41 

47.5 

3 

■it ssrsr— — 

37 

11.8 

97 

50 

05 

8 

41 

47.3 

Thermometer  52°. 

Mean  of  18  observations,  8 h.  41  m.  45.766“. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


November  5,  1846. — Camp  91,  on  the  San  Pedro , about 

from  its  mouth  at  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

i 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

5t. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

Deo-. 

min.  sec . 

Pep 

1 

. min . 

sec. 

3 

40 

39.0 

68 

01 

30 

32 

57 

54 

3 

41 

55.5 

68 

02 

30 

32 

58 

02  ■ 

3 

43 

23.6 

68 

03 

00 

32 

57 

55 

3 

44 

11.5 

68 

04 

00 

32 

58 

07 

3 

45 

23.8 

68 

04 

20 

32 

58 

07 

3 

46 

39.8 

68 

05 

15 

32 

58 

04 

3 

47 

26.0 

68 

05 

55 

32 

58 

04 

3 

48 

12.8 

68 

06 

20 

32 

58 

09 

3 

49 

22.8 

68 

06 

45 

32 

57 

59 

3 

50 

37.6 

68 

07 

30  » 

32 

58 

03 

3 

51 

16.0 

68 

07 

30 

32 

58 

03 

3 

51 

54.7 

68 

08 

10 

32 

58 

03 

Thermometer  52°. 

9 


Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  58'  03'' 


I 


[ 7 ] 330 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
November  5,  1846. — Camp  91,  on  the  San  Pedro. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  a Arietis  from 
moon’s  eastern  limb. 

f 

Double  altitudes  of  moon’s 
upper  limb. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

12 

29 

20.0 

48 

22 

30 

134 

00 

30 

12 

31 

01.5 

48 

22 

40 

133 

26 

20 

12 

32 

40.8 

48 

22 

55 

132 

50 

10 

12 

34 

14.2 

48 

23 

40 

132 

17* 

35 

12 

36 

29.0 

48 

23 

40 

131 

30 

30 

12 

38 

25.5 

48 

23 

55 

130 

48 

-30 

12 

40 

22.6 

48 

25 

40 

130 

05 

30 

12 

42 

09.5 

48 

26 

30 

129 

27 

00 

12 

43 

37.8 

48 

26 

50 

128 

54 

10 

12 

44 

51.5 

48 

27 

10 

128 

28 

10 

12 

47 

31.2 

48 

27 

40 

127 

29 

30 

12 

49 

26.8 

48 

28 

15 

126 

45 

50 

Thermometer  32°. 


I 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


November  5,  1846. — Camp  91,  on  the  San  Pedro. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time; 

p.  ra. 

Distance  of  Regulus  from 
moon’s  eastern  limb. 

- «► 

Double  altitudes  of  moon’s 
upper  limb. 

4. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec. 

Deg. 

min.  sec. 

12 

57 

55.2 

65 

18 

45 

123 

36  00 

12 

59 

49.5 

65 

18 

00 

122 

52  15 

13 

01 

38.0 

65 

17 

20 

122 

11  15 

13 

05 

13.8 

65 

16 

35 

121 

34  40 

13 

04 

47.5 

65 

16 

00 

120 

59  30 

13 

06 

04.5 

65 

15 

30 

120 

29  50 

13 

07 

57.8 

65 

14 

55 

119 

46  40 

13 

09 

15.0 

65 

14 

30 

119 

16  20 

13 

10 

51.5 

65 

13 

55 

118 

49  00 

Thermometer  32°. 

Longitude,  by  mean  of  observations,  74.  23m.  46.95. 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


JYovemher  6?  1846. — Camp  91,  on  the  San  Ped^ro. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  cf  a Andro- 
medte  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

Beg. 

min.  sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

12 

38.0 

116 

51 

40 

8 

41 

32.2 

3 

13 

45.8 

117 

20 

15 

8 

41 

32.0 

3 

14 

31.0 

117 

40 

00 

8 

41 

30.5 

3 

15 

26.0 

118 

02 

45 

8 

41 

31.1 

3 

16 

19.7 

118 

24 

50 

8 

41 

32.3 

3 

17 

17.6 

118 

50 

05 

r 8 

41 

30.1 

3 

18 

12.8 

119 

12 

25 

8 

41 

32.2 

3 

18 

59.8 

119 

33 

15 

8 

41 

29.6 

* 


Thermometer  64°. 


Time, 

• 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrae. 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg 

. min 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

22 

56.5 

101 

45 

35 

8 

41 

35.1 

3 

23 

53.8 

101 

21 

55 

8 

41 

31.5  rej. 

3 

24 

44.8 

101 

03 

15 

8 

41 

34.4 

3 

25 

22.5 

100 

49 

05 

8 

41 

35.6 

3 

26 

11.2 

100 

29 

50 

8 

41 

34.6 

3 

27 

07.5 

100 

08 

15 

8 

41 

35.3 

3 

28 

00.5 

99 

47 

45 

8 

41 

35.6 

3 

28 

55.8 

99 

25 

50 

8 

41 

34.3 

Thermometer  64°. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

\ 

November  6 } 1846. —Camp  91,  on  the  San  Pedro . 

DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time. 


Distance  of  Aldebaran  from 
moon’s  western  limb. 


Double  altitudes  of  moon’s 
upper  limb. 


I 


h. 

m. 

<?. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

7 

43 

11.0 

25 

53 

55 

65 

27 

10 

7 

44 

45.2 

25 

54 

25 

66 

06' 

20 

7 

47 

03.8 

25 

55 

35 

67 

03 

io  S 

7 

49 

18.0 

25 

56 

15 

67 

58 

10 

7 

51 

03,0 

25 

57 

15 

68 

40 

50 

Thermometer  42°. 


Immersion  of  Jupiter’s  satellite,  64.  42m.  40,?. 


334 


-APPENDIX  No.  5- — Continued. 
JVovembe7-  8,  1846. — Camp  93,  on  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  6 Aquarii, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

2 

49 

26.8 

101 

19 

40 

33 

05 

18 

-2 

50 

27.5"' 

101 

20 

15 

33 

05 

25 

9 

51 

29.0 

101 

20 

50 

33 

05 

28 

2 

52 

28.7 

101 

21 

20 

33 

05 

27 

2 

53 

22.9 

101 

ei 

i 

35 

3*8 

05 

27 

2 

54 

37.8 

101 

21 

40 

33 

05 

30 

2 

56 

03.5 

101 

22 

00 

33 

05 

18 

2 

56 

56.0 

101 

21 

40 

33 

05 

18 

2 

57 

44.2 

101 

21 

00 

33 

05 

27 

2 

59 

11.0 

101 

20 

30 

33 

05 

14 

3 

00 

19.9 

101 

19 

20 

H Q 
DeJ 

05 

20 

Thermometer  44°. 


Mean  of  12  observations.,  33°  05;  24 X 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min 

sec. 

Beg. 

■min . 

sec. 

3 

30 

26.0 

88 

17 

40 

33 

05 

48 

3 

31 

20.0 

68 

18 

10 

33 

05' 

48 

3 

32 

32.5 

68 

18 

40 

33 

05 

43 

3 

33 

38.5 

68 

19 

45 

33 

05 

58 

3 

34 

29.0 

68 

20 

10 

33 

05 

55 

3 

35 

07.2 

68 

20 

45 

<rs  s-j 
06 

06 

02 

3 

35 

47.0 

68 

21 

20 

33 

06 

09 

3 

36 

28.8 

68 

21 

45 

33 

06 

09 

3 

37 

18.0 

68 

22 

15 

33 

08 

01 

Thermometer  42°. 


Mean  of  9 observations,  33°  05'  57f!. 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


November  8,  1846. — Camp  S3,  on  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medse,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

I - 

h.  m.  5*. 

3 05  32.0 

116  43  10 

8 42  39.2 

3 06  26.8 

117  05  45 

8 42  40.3 

3 07  27 . 6 

117  32  40 

8 42  37.0 

3 08  33.5 

lit  59  15 

8 42  39.5 

3 .09  30.0 

118  23  40 

8 42  37 . 9 

3 10  22.3 

118  45  20 

8 42  39.5 

3 11  13.8 

119  06  55 

8 42  38.6 

3 12  24.6 

119  36  50 

8 42  38.2 

* 

Thermometer  42°. 

Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyr&, 

Chronometer  fast. 

in  the  west. 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

c. 

h.  m.  s. 

3 15  31.0 

102  07  10 

8 42  41.6 

3 16  29.5 

101  44  40 

8 42  42.2 

3 17  19.0 

101  25  55 

8 42  43.5 

3 18  21.5 

101  01  35 

8 42  43.2 

3 19  10.8 

100  42  55 

8 42  44.4 

3 20  02.8 

j 100  21  40 

8 42  41.6 

3 20  46.8 

100  04  45 

8 42  42.0 

3 21  42.2 

99  43  15 

8 42  41.9 

Thermometer  42°. 

Mean  of  16  observations,  8 h.  42m.  4Q,66sa 


336 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5 - — Continued. 


November  10,  1846.. — Camp  95,  Caroon  plain , on  the  Gila . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medse,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h . m . 5* . 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

2 51  20.2 

113  20  05 

8 44  24.1 

2 52  11.5 

113  41  35 

8 44  23.3 

2 53  21.0 

114  10  30 

8 44  24.0 

2 54  10.8 

114  30  50 

8 44  25.3 

2 55  03 . 8 

114  53  05 

8 44  23.3 

2 56  05.0 

115  19  25 

8 44  23.9 

2 56  59.6 

115  42  15  1 

8 44  24.0 

2 57  52.1 
* 

116  04  35 

8 44  25.3 

The  rmometer  52°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 
* in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg.  min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

03 

15.5 

104 

30 

25 

8 

44 

29.5 

3 

04 

18.0 

104 

05 

30 

8 

44 

27.7 

3 

05 

07.8 

103 

46 

10 

8 

44 

27.9 

3 

06 

01.1 

103 

25 

40 

8 

44 

28.5 

3 

06 

47.8 

103 

07 

35 

8 

44 

28.6 

3 

07 

30.8 

102 

51 

20 

8 

44 

29.8 

3 

08 

13.5 

102 

34 

10 

8 

44 

28.4 

3 

09 

00.5 

102 

15 

45 

8 

44 

29.1 

3 

09 

47.8 

101 

57 

50 

8 

44 

29.3 

Thermometer  52°. 

Mean  of  18  observations,  8 h.  44m.  26.52s . 


337 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
November  10,  1848. — Camp  95. 


m 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg,. 

min 

..  sec. 

De*y;. 

min. 

sec . 

3 

27 

02.0 

68 

16 

25 

33 

04 

25 

3 

27 

55.8 

68 

16 

45 

33 

04 

20 

3 

28 

50.0 

68 

17 

20 

33 

04 

22 

3 

29 

41.8 

68 

17 

55 

33 

04 

26 

3 

30 

30.0 

68 

18 

15 

33 

04 

22 

3 

31 

14.5 

* 68 

18 

30 

33 

04 

17 

3 

31 

52.5 

68 

18 

55 

33 

04 

20 

3 

32 

23 . 8 

68 

19 

io- 

33 

04 

17 

3 

33 

08.5 

68 

19 

40 

33 

04 

21 

3 

34 

00.5 

68 

19 

55 

33 

04 

14 

3 

34 

44.0 

68 

21 

00 

33 

04 

34  rej. 

3 

35 

44.5 

68 

21 

00 

33 

04 

18 

3 

38 

25.8 

68 

21 

30 

33 

04 

27 

Thermometer  50°. 

fr,  . / 

Mean  of  12  observations,  33°  04''  21 '7 


22 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


November  12,  1846.— Camp  97,  below  Pimos  village , about  four 

miles  from  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  b Aquarii, 
near  the  meridian. 

. 

. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

. 

*. 

Beg. 

min.  sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

2 

35 

15.0 

101 

09 

45 

33 

09 

32 

2 

37 

17.0 

101 

12 

20 

33 

09 

10 

2 

38 

28.5 

101 

12 

45 

33 

09 

22 

2 

39 

53.8 

. 101 

13 

05  . 

33 

09 

29 

2 

40 

55.8 

101 

13 

40 

33 

09 

20 

2 

41 

50.3 

101 

14 

05 

33 

09 

09 

2 

43 

05.5 

101 

13 

25 

33 

09 

25 

2 

43 

40.0 

101 

12 

50 

33 

09 

37  rej. 

2 

44 

29.8 

101 

13 

10 

33 

09 

18 

2 

45 

18.0 

101 

12 

45 

33 

09 

17 

2 

46 

12.0 

101 

12 

00 

33 

09 

22 

2 

47 

07.5 

101 

11 

20 

33 

09 

19 

— 

2 

48 

25.0 

101 

10 

25 

33 

09 

07 

2 

49 

41.5 

101 

08 

25 

33 

09 

19 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  13  observations,  33°  09'  19". 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


November  13?  1846.- — Camp  97. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Distance  between  sun’s  and 
moon’s  nearest  limbs. 

- . .'Nv  ■ . ■ 1 ■ 

■ 

Double  altitude  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 

... 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

- 

Deg.  min.  sec . 

4 

16 

46.8 

60 

36 

45 

4 

18 

10.0 

60 

56 

25 

4 

20 

59.5 

60 

56 

05 

4 

23 

05.2 

60 

55 

30 

114 

18 

15 

4 

24 

45.8 

60 

55 

00 

114 

20 

50 

4 

26 

17.0 

60 

54 

20 

114 

22 

25 

4 

28 

09.2 

60 

34 

25 

114 

23 

30 

4 

31 

26.5 

60 

33 

05 

114 

25 

00 

4 

33 

00.0 

60 

32 

50 

114 

24 

50 

4 

34 

47.3 

60 

52 

45 

114 

23 

40 

4 

36 

04.8 

60 

32 

05 

114 

22 

10 

4 

38 

25.0 

60 

31 

25 

114 

19 

30 

4 

40 

07.6 

60 

31 

05 

114 

16 

10 

4 

41 

26.5 

60 

30 

30 

114 

13 

50 

Thermometer  54°. 


INDEX  ERROR. 


On  the  arc ....  ......  ....  ....  ...»  ....  ...»  31.55,f 

Off  the  arc ..............................  32.25 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  12,  1846,  — Cam]}  97. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time. 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a An- 
dromeda^ in 'the  east. 

Chronometer  fast . 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg . rimri. 

< 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

2 

55 

19.8  1 

117  53 

15 

8 

45 

23.8 

2 

56 

27.2 

118  21 

15 

8 

45 

25.2 

2 

57 

31.0 

118  48 

20 

8 

45 

24.5 

9 

58 

17.0 

119  07 

10 

8 

45 

25.7 

2 

59 

04.7 

119  27 

40 

8 

45 

22.5 

2 

59 

48.5 

119  46 

15 

8 

45 

23.9 

3 

00 

32.8 

120  04 

55 

8 

45 

23.8 

n> 

O 

01 

29.2 

120  29 

15 

8 

45 

22 .1 

3 

02 

16.8 

120  48 

25 

* 8 

45 

24 . 1 

3 

03 

05.0 

121  08 

38 

8 

V 

45 

24.2 

Thermometer  50°. 

Time, 

p.  m. 

i Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 

Chronometer  fast. 

\ . 

in  the  west. 

■ 

h. 

m. 

s. 

5 

D eg . min 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

07 

26.8 

100  15 

40 

8 

45 

.26.9 

3 

08 

11.2 

99  59 

05 

| 8 

45 

28.5 

3 

09 

19.8 

99  31 

50 

8 

45 

27.9 

3 

10 

05.5 

99  14 

15 

1 8 

45 

27.2 

3 

11 

03.8  * 

98  51 

45 

8 

45 

27.3 

3 

11 

45.5 

98  35 

45 

8 

45 

27.9 

3 

12 

50.0 

98  10 

55 

8 

45 

28.2 

3 

13 

47.2 

97  48 

40 

8 

45 

27.9 

3 

14 

35.5 

97  29 

50 

8 

45 

27.5 

3 

15 

24.  S 

97  10 

30 

3 

45 

26.8 

3 

16 

19.8 

j 96  49 

10 

i 8 

45 

26.7 

3 

17 

05.0 

96  31 

25 

8 

45 

26.0 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  22  observations,  8 h.  45m.  25.79s. 


co  co  co  co  co  co  oo  co  co  co  co  co 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


November  12,  1846. — Camp  97. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time,  p.  m.  Double  altitudes  of  Polaris.  - Latitude. 


m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

Deg. 

min 

sec 

28 

58.5 

68 

31 

50 

33 

09 

40 

29 

52 . 5 

68 

90 

OC 

20' 

33 

G9 

41 

30 

46.0 

68 

32 

50 

33 

09 

41 

31 

51.8 

68 

33 

05 

33 

09 

31 

33 

16.0 

68 

34 

00 

o o 
o o 

09 

«■>  t' 

oO 

34 

05.0 

68 

34 

35 

33 

09 

40 

35 

03.8 

68 

34 

55 

33 

09 

33 

36 

07.0 

68 

35 

40 

33 

09 

38 

37 

04.0 

68 

36 

05 

33 

09 

35 

37 

41.8' 

68 

36 

45 

33 

09 

43 

38 

34.2 

68 

37 

00 

99 

OO 

09 

58 

39 

11.5 

68 

37 

35 

33 

09 

31 

Thermometer  48°. 

Mean  of  12  observations,  33°  09'  37". 


[ 7 ] • 342 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

November  13.  1846. — Camp  97. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

a.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  sun’s 
upper  limb. 

| Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

Deg.  min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

5 

41 

04.8 

50 

23 

10 

8 

45 

18.9 

5 

42 

28.7  1 

50 

47 

35 

8 

45 

19.7 

5 

42- 

59.0 

50 

57 

15 

8 

45 

17.2 

5 

43 

40.0 

51 

08 

50 

8 

45 

18.5 

5 

44 

34.0 

51 

24 

55 

8 

45 

17.3 

5 

45 

38.5 

51 

43 

20 

8 

45 

18.6 

5 

46 

35.8 

52 

00 

10 

8 

45 

17  .-7 

5 

47 

05.8 

52 

09 

00 

8 

45 

17.2 

5 

47 

42.5  j 

52 

18 

28 

8 

45 

21 .0  rej. 

5 

48 

38.0 

52 

35 

15 

8 

45 

17.8 

5 

49 

22.5 

52 

48 

05 

8 

45 

17.7 

5 

50 

14.5 

! 

53 

02 

35 

8 

45 

18.8 

Thermometer  60°. 

Mean  of  11  observations^  8 h.  45m.  18. 13s. 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
JVove?nher  14,  1846. — Ca?np  99,  cm  the  Gila . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medae,  in  the  east. 

+ 

Chronometer  fast. 

4. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

k . 

m. 

s. 

2 

42 

53.0 

114 

56 

50 

8 

47 

49.3 

2 

43 

54 . 6 

115 

22 

45 

8 

47 

49.2 

2 

44 

54.2 

115 

47 

50 

8 

47 

51,2 

2 

45 

57.5 

116 

13 

45 

8 

47 

50.7 

2 

46 

48.0 

116 

35 

35 

8 

47 

49.2 

2 

47 

47.0 

117 

00 

10 

8 

47 

47.6 

2 

48 

32.0 

117 

19 

00 

8 

47 

50.1 

2 

49 

21.5 

117 

40 

05 

8 

47 

49.5 

Thermometer  50°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrae, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

17 

07.0 

94 

36 

50 

8 

47 

54.0 

3 

17 

55.8 

93 

58 

10 

8 

47 

52.9 

3 

18 

44.0 

93 

39 

40 

8 

47 

53.2 

3 

19 

38.8 

93 

19 

10 

8 

47 

54.8 

3 

20 

37,0 

92 

55 

20 

8 

47 

51.3 

3 

22 

02.8 

92 

21 

15 

8 

47 

48.5  rei. 

3 

22 

52.8 

92 

03 

10 

8 

47 

51.7 

3 

23 

37.0 

91 

46 

20 

8 

47 

52.2 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  15  observations,  84.  47 m.  51.235. 


[ 7 ] ' 344 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  14,  1846. — Camp  99,  on  the  Gila. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


T 

ime  3 

p.  m. 

Doable  altitude  of  Saturn, 
near  the  meridian. 

♦ | 

i 

Latitude. 

h. 

rn. 

s. 

Deg. 

min 

. sec. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

2 

52 

36.2 

84 

14 

19 

32 

59 

17 

2 

53 

33.0 

84 

15 

40 

32 

59 

07 

2 

54 

23.5 

84 

16 

30 

32 

59 

10 

2 

55 

06.8 

84 

17 

05 

32 

59 

13 

2 

56 

52.5 

84 

18 

30 

32 

59 

14 

2 

58 

08.2 

84 

19 

55 

32 

58 

53 

2 

59 

15.5 

84 

20 

05 

32 

59 

03 

3 

00 

25.8 

84 

20 

50 

32 

58 

50 

3 

01 

51.5 

84 

20 

30 

32 

59 

03 

3 

02 

48.0 

84 

20 

10 

32 

59 

10 

3 

03 

50.0 

84 

19 

55 

32 

59 

10 

3 

04 

54.8 

84 

19 

15 

32 

59 

17 

3 

06 

04.8 

84 

18 

35 

32 

59 

21 

3 

07 

19.2 

84 

17 

45 

32 

59 

16 

3 

08 

26.8 

84 

17 

10 

32 

59 

04 

3 

09 

22.8 

84 

15 

40 

32 

59 

20 

3 

10 

10.8 

84 

14 

40 

32 

59 

.22 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  17  observations,  32°  59'  10". 

« 


S 


345 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  14 , 1846. — Camp  99,  on  the  Gila. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time,  p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h.  m.  s. 

Beg.  min.  sec . 

Beg . min . sec. 

3 28  14. S 

68  14  20 

32  59  36 

3 29  28.5 

68  14  35 

32  59  25 

3 - 30  27.0 

68  15  15 

32  53  29 

3 32  19.0 

68  16  00 

32  59  20 

3 33  36.8 

68  17  06 

32  59  34 

3 35  02.5 

68  18  05 

32  59  40 

3 36  06.8 

68  18  25 

32  59  34 

3 37  08.5 

68  19  05 

32  59  39 

3 38  04.6 

68  19  45 

32  59  35 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  9 observations,  32°  59'  34 


re 


[7 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  15,  184.6. — Camp  99. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Andro- 
medse,  in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m. 

5. 

Deg 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

2 41 

43.6 

116 

12 

05 

8 

47 

36.7 

2 42 

41.7 

116 

35 

50 

8 

47 

38.3 

2 43 

22.5 

116 

53 

20 

8 

47 

37.5 

2 43 

59.8 

117 

08 

20 

8 

47 

38.8 

2 44 

35.0 

117 

23 

45 

8 

47 

37.6 

2 45 

28.0 

117 

46 

20 

8 

47 

36.9 

2 46 

14.8 

118 

05 

40 

8 

47 

37.6 

2 46 

56.0 

118 

23 

10 

8 

47 

37.2 

Thermometer  °. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast 

L 

711. 

s. 

Deg 

min. 

sec. 

f 

h. 

m. 

s. 

2 

48 

47.8 

103 

38 

55 

8 

47 

40.1 

2 

49 

42.0 

103 

18 

35 

8 

47 

41.2 

2 

50 

23.0 

103 

02 

05 

8 

47 

40.6 

2 

51 

06.8 

102 

44 

10 

8 

47 

57.5  rej. 

2 

51 

50.0 

102 

28 

40 

8 

47 

40.8 

2 

52 

38.5 

102 

08 

50 

8 

47 

38.2 

2 

53 

19.0 

101 

53 

55 

8 

47 

40.4 

2 

54 

15.2 

101 

32 

05 

8 

47 

40.4 

Mean  of  15  observations,  8 h.  47 m.  38.915. 


347 


m 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

November  14,  1846. -—Camp  101,  on  the  Gila. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Algerib, 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

5“. 

Deg 

min . sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

14 

02.8 

116 

17 

50 

8 

49 

33.0 

3 

15 

00 . 0 

116 

38 

55 

8 

49 

32.9 

3 

16 

12.5 

117 

05 

45 

8 

49 

32.3 

3 

17 

12.5 

117 

26 

55 

8 

43 

34.2 

3 

18 

08.0 

117 

47 

30 

8 

49 

33.2 

3 

19 

02.5 

118 

07 

35 

8 

49 

32.4 

3 

19 

55.3 

118 

26 

45 

8 

49 

32.4 

3 

20 

42.2 

118 

43 

25 

8 

49 

33.1 

3 

21 

52.8 

119 

09 

15 

8 

43 

e 

31.9 

Thermometer  40°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyras, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

5“. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

3 

24 

29.8 

87 

31 

20 

8 

49 

37.1 

3 

25 

16 . 8 

87 

13 

20 

8 

49 

37.2 

3 

26 

03.5 

86 

55 

10 

8 

49 

36.6 

3 

26 

57.8 

86 

34 

10 

8 

49 

36.0 

3 

28 

02.0 

86 

08 

45 

8 

49 

33.9  rei. 

3 

28 

52.6 

85 

49 

55 

8 

49 

35.4 

3 

29 

54.3 

85 

26 

20 

8 

49 

38.3 

3 

30 

35.5 

85 

10 

50 

8 

49 

36.1 

3 

31 

14.0 

84 

56 

20 

8 

49 

37.1 

Thermometer  40°. 


Mean  of  17  observations,  Sh.  49m.  34. 76s. 


,0  w co  o:  > 


348 


m 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  17,  1846. — Camp  101. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


3 

3 

3 

3 

4 
4 
4 
4 


Time,  p 

m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude 

• 

m. 

t 

s . 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg. 

min.  sec. 

51 

28.5 

68 

22 

55 

32 

55 

40 

52 

32 . 8 

68 

23 

20 

32 

55 

38 

53 

52.3 

■ 68 

24 

05 

32 

55 

43 

54 

46 . 0 

68 

25 

10 

32 

56 

05 

56 

07.0 

68 

25 

00 

32 

55 

41 

57 

42.8 

68 

25 

50 

.■32 

55 

46 

58 

50.5 

68 

26 

25 

32 

55 

48 

59 

35.0 

68 

27 

00 

32 

55 

58 

00 

13.5 

68 

27 

25 

32 

56 

00 

00 

52.8 

! 68 

27 

45 

32 

56 

02 

01 

28.0 

68 

28 

05 

32 

56 

04 

02 

20.0 

68 

28 

20 

QO 

56 

00 

Thermometer  38°. 

Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  55''  52". 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


November  19,  1846. — Comp  103,  on  an  island  of  the  Gila . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m„' 

Double  alti 
in 

fades  of 
the  west 

a Lyrae, 

Chronometer  fast. 

4. 

m. 

8. 

Beg 

. mm . 

sec . 

4. 

m. 

s. 

3 

40 

47.5 

78 

47 

20 

8 

51 

21.6 

3 

41 

34.8 

78 

29 

00 

8 

51 

20.7 

* 3 

42 

21.0 

78 

10 

45 

8 

51 

18.7 

3 

43 

12.0 

77 

51 

05 

8 

51 

17.9 

3 

44 

16.5 

77 

26 

55 

8 

51 

18.8 

3 

45 

04.3 

77 

09 

10 

8 

51 

19.7 

3 

45 

48.2 

76 

52 

35 

i 8 

51 

19.9 

3 

46 

34.8 

76 

34 

55 

8 

51 

19.9 

3 

47 

26.5 

76 

15 

10 

8 

it 

51 

19.4 

i 

Thermometer  5QC 

C ,v  **  • • - ‘ . 


Time, 

p,  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Arietis, 

| o 

hronometer  fast. 

in  the  east 

- 

4. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec . 

/, 

m. 

s. 

3 

53 

19.0 

97 

50 

55 

8 

51 

17.1 

3 

54 

11.2 

98 

13 

10 

8 

51 

16.5 

3 

54 

57.8 

98 

32 

00 

8 

51 

18.4 

3 

55 

39.8 

98 

50 

05 

8 

51 

17.4 

3 

56 

32.0 

99 

12 

20 

8 

51 

16.8 

3 

57 

21.0 

99 

33 

10 

8 

51 

16.3 

3 

58 

40,0 

100 

05 

45 

8 

51 

18.0 

3 

59 

30.8 

100 

27 

45 

8 

51 

16.4 

4 

00 

11.0 

100 

44 

45 

8 

51 

16.4 

4 

00 

51,2 

101 

01 

35 

8 

51 

16.5 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  19  observations,  84.  51m.  18.30s. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


November  19,  1846. — Camp  103. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Beg;. 

min . 

sec. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

4 

08 

37.0 

68 

09 

05 

32 

43 

55 

4 

09 

32.5 

68 

10 

00 

32 

44 

13 

4 

10 

37.8 

68 

10 

00 

32 

44 

01 

4 

11 

06.5 

68 

10 

25 

32 

44 

08 

4 

12 

42.0 

68 

10 

50 

32 

44 

02 

4 

13 

27.2 

68 

11 

00 

32 

43 

59 

4 

14 

10.8 

68 

11 

25 

32 

44 

03 

4 

14 

32.0 

68 

11 

50 

32 

44 

09 

4 

15 

57.0 

68 

12 

20 

32 

44 

12 

4 

16 

46 .0 

68 

12 

50 

32 

44 

18 

4 

17 

56.5 

68 

12 

55 

32 

44 

09 

4 

19 

33.0 

68 

13 

10 

32 

44 

00 

4 

20 

40.5 

68 

13 

25 

32 

43 

55 

Thermometer  46°. 


Mean  of  13  observations,  32°  44f  05", 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  19,  1846. — Camp  103. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Procyon, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

.5. 

• vX  ■ 

Deg. 

min. 

i 

! 

sec . 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

12 

16 

18.0 

125 

34 

55 

32 

43 

40 

12 

17 

58.8 

125 

39 

55 

32 

43 

00 

12 

20 

46.8 

125 

43 

15 

32 

43 

37 

12 

23 

26.2 

125 

46 

15 

32 

43 

27 

12 

25 

00.5 

125 

48 

00 

32 

42 

58 

12 

27 

09.0 

[ • 125 

48 

10 

32 

• 42 

55 

12 

29 

42.0 

125 

48 

30 

32 

43 

04 

12 

31 

34.0 

125 

42 

35 

32 

44 

02 

12 

33 

49.8 

125 

41 

50 

32 

42 

39 

12 

34 

47.7 

, 125 

39 

05 

32 

43 

06 

12 

36 

54.5 

V 

125 

35 

40 

32 

42 

21 

Thermometer  28°. 

Mean  of  11  observations,  32°  43'  11". 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
Jfovemberr  21,  1846. — Bamp  105,  on  the  Gila. 


determination  of  time. 


1 

Time. 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 

of  a Lyra, 

/ 

Clironome 

ter 

fast. 

’ r 

in 

the  west. 

h . 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min 

. sec . 

h. 

m. 

S . 

3 

21 

02.0 

83 

44 

15 

8 

52 

28 

.0 

3 

21 

49.2 

83 

25 

35 

8 

52 

26 

4 

3 

22 

43.9 

83 

05 

10 

i 8 

52 

27 

6 

3 

23 

27.8 

82 

48 

25 

8 

52 

27 

6 

3 

24 

17.2 

82 

29 

55 

8 

52 

28 

6 

3 

25 

12.0 

82 

08 

35 

8 

52 

27 

7 

3 

25 

55 .5 

81 

52 

15 

8 

52 

28 

2 

3 

27 

16.0 

81 

20 

20 

8 

52 

25 

0 rej * 

o 

O 

27 

55.9 

81 

06 

05 

j 8 

52 

27 

6 

Thermometer  40°. 


Time; 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Arietis, 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min.  sec. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

3 

32 

43.3 

92 

00 

30 

8 

52 

25 . 9 rej. 

3 

33 

36.0 

92 

24 

00 

8 

52 

21.9 

3 

34 

32.0 

92 

47 

10 

8 

52 

22.8 

3 

35 

40.8 

93 

16 

10 

8 

52 

23.0 

3 

36 

27.6 

93 

35 

45 

8 

52 

23.3 

3 

37 

16.8 

93 

57 

15 

8 

52 

21.4 

3 

38 

19.5 

94 

23 

45 

8 

5.2 

21.3 

3 

39 

15.5 

94 

47 

30 

8 

52 

20.9 

3 

40 

15.0 

95 

12 

40 

8 

52 

21.8 

Thermometer  40°. 


Mean  of  16  obsei vations,  8 h.  5 2m.  24.88$. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  2 1,  184 6.— -Camp  105. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 

I 


Time, 

■'  i 1 

p.  m. 

j Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

t 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg 

min. 

see. 

3 

45 

29.0 

68 

00 

30 

32 

42 

58  rej. 

3 

46 

38.8 

68 

01 

40 

32 

43 

17 

3 

47 

23.8 

68 

01 

50 

32 

43 

13 

3 

48 

20.7 

88 

02 

10 

32 

43 

10 

3 

49 

03.1 

68 

02 

30 

32 

43 

12 

3 

49 

47.8 

68 

03 

05 

32 

43 

19 

3 

50 

24.2 

68 

03 

25 

32 

43 

22 

3 

50 

58.0 

68 

03 

50  ^ 

32 

43 

27 

3 

51 

49.5 

68 

04 

00 

32 

43 

22 

3 

52 

25.0 

68 

04 

10 

32 

43 

20 

3 

53 

04.9 

68 

04 

20 

|.  32 

43 

16 

3 

53 

46.8 

68 

04 

30 

32 

43 

13 

9 

O 

54 

23.5  | 

j 

68 

04 

45 

32 

43 

13 

Thermometer  40°. 

Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  43;  17". 


«► 


■ / 

23 


x 


I 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 

/ ' ""A7  ’ 

November  22,  1846. — Camp  108, near  the  mouth  of  the  Gila , 5,  to. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


' 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  Fornnltam  from 
moon’s  western  limb. 

Double  ab  i t tides  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 

h. 

TO. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

to  in . 

sec. 

2 

41 

39 . 0 

46 

52 

35 

58 

40 

50 

2 

44 

1^. 8 

46 

51 

40 

58 

01 

20 

2 

46 

53.8 

46 

50 

20 

57 

18 

30 

2 

49 

15  0 

46 

49 

45 

56 

41 

10 

2 

52 

30.2 

46 

48 

45 

55 

46. 

20 

2 

56 

17.5 

46 

47 

30 

54 

46 

10 

3 

02 

06.0 

46 

45 

35 

53 

08 

55 

3 

03 

49.2 

46 

45 

10 

52 

49 

50 

3 

06 

13.3  ;i 

46 

44 

40 

51 

58 

50 

Thermometer  66°. 


Longitude,  bj  mean  of  observations,  Ih.  40to.  50.0Gs. 


* 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

ft 

. I v ' . • ' V 

Jfovember  22,  1846. — Camp  106,  ?rear  tke  mouth  of  the  Gila, 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

■7 . V 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

Deg. 

mi  7 1 

. sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

o 

o 

14 

13.3 

85 

09 

35 

8 

53 

20.9 

3 

15 

11.7 

84 

44 

55 

8 

53 

20.9 

3 

16 

17.6 

8i 

21 

35 

8 

53 

19.8 

3 

17 

13.8 

83 

59 

30 

8 

53 

18.3 

3 

18 

05 . 9 

83 

40 

10 

8 

53 

19.8 

3 

18 

54.0 

83 

21 

40 

8 

53 

19.5 

3 

19 

53.0 

82 

59 

00 

8 

53 

19.2 

3 

20 

44.8 

82 

40 

05 

8 

53 

21.5 

3 

21 

35 . 2 

82 

20 

15 

8 

53 

20.0 

Thermometer  60°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  east 

N 

a Arietis. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

,9. 

3 

28 

17.5 

91 

26 

10 

8 

53 

16.7 

3 

29 

06 . 0 

91 

47 

40 

8 

53 

14.2 

3 

29 

58.8 

92 

09 

40 

8 

53 

16.0 

3 

30 

49.8 

92 

30 

20 

8 

53 

16.8 

3 

31 

33.5 

92 

49 

30 

8 

53 

15 . 0 

3 

32 

28.0 

93 

11 

25 

8 

53 

18.6 

3 

33 

33.8 

93 

40 

10 

8 

53 

15.2 

3 

34 

55.0 

94 

14 

15 

8 

53 

15.5 

3 

35 

54  8 

94 

39 

15 

8 

53 

18.0 

Thermometer  60°. 


Mean  of  18  observations.  Sh.  53 m.  18. 10s. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


November-  22,  1S46. — Camp  106. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time? 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

! 

5. 

Deg. 

min. . 

J 

sec. 

Deg . 

min . 

sec. 

3 

48 

19.5 

68 

01 

50 

32 

42 

21 

3 

49 

26.0 

68 

02 

15 

32 

42 

19 

3 

59 

18.0 

68 

02 

30 

32 

42 

18 

3 

59 

59.8 

68 

02 

25 

32 

42 

08 

3 

52 

56.0 

68 

03 

30 

32 

42 

15 

3 

54 

08.0 

68 

04 

10 

32 

42 

15 

3 

55 

12.8 

68 

04 

20 

32 

42 

14 

3 

56 

07.8 

68 

05 

05 

32 

42 

25 

3 

57 

10.9 

68 

05 

20 

32 

42 

22 

3 

58 

23.2 

68 

05 

35 

32 

42 

14 

3 

59 

26.8 

68 

05 

45 

32 

42 

08 

4 

00 

35.2 

68 

06 

05 

32 

42 

05 

4 

01 

51.8 

68 

06 

45 

32 

42 

11 

Thermometer  60°. 


Mean  of  13  observations,  32°  42'  15". 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
November  23,  1846.-—  Camp'  106. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p. 

m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Saturn 

in  the  west. 

' " A . 5 . 

k. 

m. 

Beg. 

min. 

sec. 

2 

39 

36.5 

85 

06 

00 

2 

40 

38.5 

85 

04 

50 

2 

41 

37  0 

85 

03  , 

20 

2 

42 

42.8 

85 

02 

50 

2 

43 

20.0 

85 

01 

10 

9 

44 

01.0 

85 

00 

00 

i 


Thermometer  56°. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

tgllfii 

Distance  of  a Arietis  from  ' 
moon’s  western  limb. 

Double  altitudes  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 

/ 

h. 

m. 

1 

J)e-g 

min . 

sec. 

Deg.  min. 

sec,. 

3 

15 

51.0 

88 

30 

55 

68  50 

20  ' 

3 

20 

08.8 

88 

28 

10 

67  47 

20 

3 

22 

08.5 

88 

27 

20  I 

67  17 

45 

3 

28 

06 . 0 

88 

24 

45 

65  46 

50  • 

3 

30 

41.5 

88 

23 

50 

65  06 

55 

3 

34 

08.5 

88 

22 

30 

64  11 

50 

3 

35 

54.8 

88 

21 

40 

63  44 

00 

Thermometer  56°. 

h.  m.  s. 

7 39  46.5 

7 40  50.0 


Longitude  by  a Arietis  . 
Longitude  by  Fomalhaut 


• a « • « t » 


7 40  18.25 


# 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


November  25. / 1848.  — Camp  106. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Arietis, 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

^ 9 

k. 

m. 

S. 

Beg. 

min 

sec. 

k. 

m. 

s. 

3 

42 

58.8 

99 

22 

55 

8 

53 

02.9 

3 

43 

56.0 

99 

48 

25 

8 

53 

04.5 

3 

44 

37.8 

100 

02 

45 

8 

53 

07 .4  rej. 

3 

45 

31 .8 

100 

.26 

20 

8 

53 

05 . 3 

3 

46 

22.0 

TOO 

48 

10 

8 

53 

('3.7 

3 

47 

10.8 

101 

08 

35 

8 

53 

03.9 

3 

47 

59^.0 

101 

28 

65 

8 

53 

03.5 

4 

48 

55.5 

101 

52 

25 

8 

53 

04 . 6 

4 

49 

39.0 

102 

11 

20 

9 

53 

13.1 

Thermometer  54°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  west 

a Lyras. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

54 

46.8 

68 

12 

40 

8 

53 

05.1 

♦3 

55 

4810 

87 

49 

40 

8 

53 

04.9 

3 

56 

36.5 

67 

32 

15- 

8 

53 

06.8 

3 

57 

18.3 

67 

16 

40 

8 

53 

06. 8 

3 

58 

08.8 

66 

57 

50 

8 

53 

06.8 

3 

58 

53.8 

66 

40 

25 

8 

53 

05.1 

3 

59 

32.8 

66 

26 

20 

8 

53 

06.3 

4 

00 

20.8 

66 

08 

10 

8 

53 

03.5 

4 

01 

04.0 

65 

52 

30 

8 

53 

06.7 

Thermometer  52°. 


Mean  of  17  observations,  8k.  53 m.  04. 86s. 


353  [ 1 ] 

APPENDIX.  No.  5— -Continued. 


JVovember  23,  1846. — Camp  106. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  aliitudes  of  Sirius, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h-. 

m. 

s. 

'Deg* 

rain. 

sec . 

Deg 

min . 

sec . 

11 

14 

39.8 

81 

34 

55 

32 

42 

06 

11 

15 

36.0 

81 

35 

20 

32 

42 

11 

11 

16 

30.7 

81 

36 

10 

32 

41 

59 

11 

17 

33.6 

81 

36 

20 

32 

42 

05 

11 

18 

36.8 

81 

36 

40 

32 

42 

01 

11 

19 

33  0 

81 

36 

30 

32 

42 

23  rej. 

11 

21 

17.5  * 

81 

36 

20 

32 

42 

06 

11 

22 

17.0 

81 

36 

20 

32 

41 

57 

11 

23 

06.0 

81 

35 

45 

32 

42 

04 

11 

23 

54.8' 

81 

35 

10 

32 

42 

07 

11 

24 

40.0 

81 

34 

45 

32 

42- 

05 

11 

25 

41.6 

81 

34 

05 

32 

42 

01 

11 

27 

00.0 

! 

81 

33 

10 

32 

41 

51 

Thermometer  46°. 


Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  42f  03". 


% 


360 


[ 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


.Jfovember  25,  1846. — Camp  108  —first  camp  after  leaving  the  Rio 

Colorado . 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrae, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h . 

m . 

s. 

Deg 

. min . 

sec. 

h . 

m. 

s. 

3 

05 

57.5 

84 

02 

20 

8 

53 

63 . 1 rej . 

3 

06 

40.8 

83 

44 

15 

8 

53 

59.2 

3 

07 

27.9 

83 

on 

X>  s J 

35 

8 

54 

01.1 

* 3 

08 

16.5 

83 

07 

45 

8 

53 

59.5 

3 

09 

10.9 

82 

46 

50 

8 

53 

59.2 

3 

09 

59.8 

82 

28 

35 

8 

53 

60.4 

3 

10 

48.0 

82 

09 

30 

8 

53 

58.7 

3 

11 

34 . 8 

81 

51 

35 

8 

53 

58.6 

Thermometer  46°. 


Time, 

P-  m- 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  east 

a Arietis, 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec . 

r h. 

m* 

s. 

3 

16 

18.5 

91 

06 

00 

8 

53 

54.4 

3 

17 

14.0 

91 

31 

25 

8 

53 

49 . 8 rej . 

3 

17 

52.5 

91 

45 

15 

8 

53 

55.6 

3 

18 

31.6 

92 

02 

00 

8 

53 

54 . 9 

3 

19 

15.0 

92 

20 

55 

8 

53 

53.4 

. 3 

19 

58.5 

92 

39 

35 

8 

53 

52.8 

3 

. 20 

39.5 

92 

56 

30 

8 

53 

53.8 

3 

21 

26.8 

93 

16 

20 

8 

53 

54.0 

Thermometer  46°. 


Mean  of  14  observations,  8 h.  53 m.  56.82s. 


/ 


APPENDIX  No.  5~ Continued. 
November  25  ? 1846. — Camp  108. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Tirue,  p.  m. 


Double  altitudes  cf  Polaris 


Latitude. 


h. 

m . 

s. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec 

3 

24 

40.5 

67 

52 

05 

32 

40 

11 

3 

25 

46.2 

67 

52 

55 

32 

40 

■Q  Q 

Ad  Ad 

3 

26 

45.0 

67 

53 

10 

32 

40 

16 

3 

27 

31.8 

67 

53 

30 

32 

40 

16 

3 

28 

51.5 

67 

54 

20 

32 

40 

24 

3 

29 

44.0 

67 

54 

40 

32 

40 

22 

3 

30 

26.8 

67 

55 

05 

32 

40 

25 

3 

31 

06.5 

67 

55 

45 

32 

40 

33 

3 

32 

01 .0 

67 

55 

45 

32 

40 

'24 

3 

33 

25.0 

67 

56 

30 

32' 

40 

30 

Thermometer  44°. 

Mean  of  10  observatlonsj  32°  407  22", 


[7]‘ 


362 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November1 28,  1846.  — Camp  111. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Distance  of 

Aidebaran  from 

Double  altitude 

of  moon's 

moon’s  western 

limb. 

lower  limb. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

Deg. 

m in . 

sec. 

5 

27 

34. 

0 

49 

25 

25 

129 

01 

40 

5 

29 

22. 

8 

49 

24 

45 

129 

05 

50 

5 

31 

16. 

0 

49 

23 

55 

129 

08 

25 

5 

33 

17. 

5 

49 

23 

05 

129 

11 

10 

5 

05 

15. 

8 

49 

22 

35 

129 

32 

20 

5 

37 

22. 

8 

49 

21 

50 

129 

13 

00 

5 

39 

25 . 

8 

49 

21 

35 

129 

12 

40 

5 

41 

25. 

8 

49 

20 

25 

129 

• 

11 

10 

1 

Thermometer  44°. 

Longitude,  by  mean  of  observations,  7 h.  43 m.  06.45. 


m 


APPENDIX  No.  5- 
November,  285  1846, — Camp  111. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LONGITUDE. 


Time 

p.  m. 

Distance  of  Fomalhaut  from 
moon’s  western  limb. 

Double  altitudes  of  moon’s 
lower  limb. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

5 

48 

54.0 

50 

Oc) 

50 

128 

57 

30 

5 

51 

03.8 

50 

33 

30 

128 

50 

20 

5 

53 

43.7 

50 

34 

10 

128 

40 

30 

5 

58 

03.5 

50 

35 

35 

128 

QO 

^ /W 

15 

6 

01 

58.0 

50 

36 

10 

128 

00 

00 

6 

05 

24.1 

50 

37 

50 

127 

38 

30 

6 

08 

12.5 

50 

39 

00 

127 

19 

20 

6 

10 

19.2 

50 

39 

00 

127 

03 

20 

6 

15 

10.0 

50 

40 

30 

126 

4 0 

10 

6 

16 

02.7 

50 

41 

20 

126 

15 

30 

6 

19 

19.0 

50 

42 

40 

125 

45 

50 

* 

Longitude 

Thermometer  44°. 
by  F omalhaut ....  < . «. 

h. 

7 

< 9 9 * « 0 

m. 

43 

s. 

43.01 

Longitude  by  Aldebaran  ....  .. 

54 

06.04 

Mean 

• ® • 0 • d • 

.....  7 

43 

24.75 

; ffl 


il 


I 


AJPPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued 


November  28. — Camp  111,  C dr  iso  creek . first  after  passing  the 

Jornada. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 

, / * 


Time,  p.  m. 


Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 
in  the  west. 


Chronometer  fast. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

2 

49 

2d  .5 

87 

31 

40 

8 

57 

58.4 

2 

50 

20 . 0 

87 

10 

40 

8 

57 

57.2 

2 

51 

10.0 

86 

5 1 

20 

8 

57 

56.8 

2 

51 

54.5 

86 

34 

45 

8 

5.7 

37.9 

2 

52 

43 . 0 

86 

15 

30 

8 

57 

56.4 

2 

53 

23  3 

86 

00 

20 

8 

57 

57.0 

2 

54 

18.2 

85 

39 

35 

8 

57 

57.7 

2 

55 

07.3 

85 

19 

50 

8 

57 

55.2 

2 

55 

51.5 

85 

03 

35 

8 

57 

55.0 

Thermometer  48°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Arietis, 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s . 

I)  eg 

. min . 

sec. 

h: 

m. 

s. 

3 

02 

01.8 

88 

21 

15 

8 

57 

56.7 

3 

03 

06 . 2 

88 

47 

45 

8 

57 

58 . 2 

3 

03 

59.8 

89 

10 

05 

8 

57 

58.8 

3 

04 

55 .5 

89 

33 

45 

8 

57 

58.2 

3 

05 

55.8 

89 

59 

45 

8 

57 

56.7 

3 

06 

47.8 

90 

21 

10 

8 

57 

57.8 

3 

07 

47.5 

90 

46 

30 

8 

57 

57.3 

3 

08 

32.8 

91 

05 

25 

8 

57 

57.7 

<■» 

o 

09 

21.5 

91 

27 

35 

8 

57 

53.7  rej. 

Thermometer  48°. 


Mean- of  17  observations,  8 h.  57 m.  57 .26s. 


I 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
November  28,  1346. — Camp  111. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes 
laris. 

of  Po- 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg 

. min. 

sec. 

Beg 

min . 

sec . 

3 

23 

15.0 

68 

19 

25 

32 

52 

31 

3 

24 

09.0  ! 

68 

19 

40 

32 

52 

28 

3 

25 

04.5 

68 

20 

00 

32 

52 

25 

3 

23 

06.5 

68 

19 

30 

32 

51 

56  rei. 

o 

o 

26 

50.0 

68 

21 

20 

32 

9 

KJ  AJ 

43 

3 

27 

35.0 

68 

21 

35 

32 

5.2 

40 

3 

23 

22.5 

68 

21 

40 

32 

52 

33 

3 

29 

34.5 

68 

21 

50 

32 

52 

24 

O 

O 

30 

52.0 

68 

22 

20 

32 

52 

24 

3 

32 

11.8 

68 

23 

20 

32 

52 

37 

3 

33 

20.0 

68 

23 

40 

32 

52 

34 

3 

34 

02.5 

f 68 

23 

55 

32 

52 

33 

3 

35 

20.0 

68 

24 

25 

! 

32 

52 

39 

Thermometer  46°. 


Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  52'  33". 


V 


\ 


- 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued, 
November  2 9,  1846.- — Camp  1125  u Valle  Citon P5 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


* . 

- " 

-Time,  n.  m. 

/ ji 

Doable  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min 

sec . 

A. 

m*. 

s. 

2 

47 

23.8 

87 

10 

05 

8 

58 

44.1 

2 

48 

17.0 

86 

49 

10 

8 

58 

42.7 

o 

Amf 

49 

33.9 

86 

27 

20 

8 

58 

42.6 

2 

50 

03 . 5 

86 

08 

25 

8 

58 

42.9 

2 

50 

5 1 .5 

85 

5-0 

15 

8 

58 

43.5 

9 

A** 

51 

32.0 

85 

35 

05 

8 

58 

44.2 

0 

52 

24.2 

85 

14 

45 

8 

58 

43.3 

2 

53 

12.4 

84 

56 

10 

8 

58 

42.9 

Thermometer  50°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  easi 

a Arietis, 

Chronometer  fast. 

k. 

m. 

s . 

Beg 

min . 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

2 

,58 

01.0 

87 

59 

50 

8 

58 

43.7 

2 

58 

50.3 

88 

21 

20 

8 

58 

41.9 

2 

59 

30.0 

88 

37 

35 

8 

58 

42.9 

3 

00 

19.2 

88 

58 

30 

8 

58 

42.4 

o 

01 

20.3 

89 

23 

55 

8 

58 

42.9 

o 

o 

02 

16.5 

89 

48 

35 

8 

58 

40.5 

3 

03 

10.8 

90 

10 

35 

8 

58 

42.4 

3 

04 

12.0 

90 

36 

40 

8 

58 

41.8 

3 

05 

04.2 

90 

58 

35 

8 

58 

41.7 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  17  observations^  8M  58m.  42. 78s. 


387 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No. <,5 — Continued, 
November  30,  1846. — Camp  112. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyrse, 

Chronometer  fast. 

in  the  west. 

• 

h. 

m . 

,9. 

. 

Deo;,  min. 

sec. 

, 

m. 

9. 

2 

47 

58.8 

85  21 

1 15 

8 

58 

31.2. 

2 

48 

46.6 

85  02 

55 

8 

58 

31.2 

2 

49 

38.8 

84  4 2 

55 

8 

58 

3.).7 

2 

50 

27.5 

84  24 

15 

8 

58 

30 . 5 

2 

51 

11.0 

84  07 

45 

8 

58 

30.7 

2 

51 

55 .2 

83  50 

40 

8 

5S 

30.3 

2 

52 

45 .0 

t 83  31 

20 

8 

58 

29.3 

2 

53 

29.9 

83  14 

25 

8 

58 

29.9 

2 

54 

21.7 

82  55 

05 

■ 

8 

58 

31.1 

Thermometer  48°. 

t 

Time, 

P-  m* 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Arietis, 

Chronometer  fast. 

in  the  east. 

h. 

m. 

.9. 

Deg'  min. 

sec. 

k. 

m. 

s. 

3 

14 

21.0 

96  37 

20  | 

8 

58 

28.1 

3 

16 

50.8 

97  40 

10 

8 

58 

27.6 

3 

17 

25.0 

97  54 

10 

8 

58 

29.1 

3 

19 

40.6 

98  50 

50 

8 

58 

29.9 

3 

22 

24.8 

99  59 

55 

8 

58 

29.5 

Thermometer  48°. 

Mean  of  14  observations,  8 k.  58m,  £9 . 69.?. 

Boisterous  and  cloudy.  The  ground  at  this  camp  is  spongy,  and 
shaken  by  the  lightest  tread. 


CO  co  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO  CO 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
November  29,  184 6.— Camp  112. 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


me,  p 

. m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

m. 

i 

S. 

Beg. 

i 

■min . 

sec. 

Beg. 

min 

sec. 

08 

45.0 

68 

26 

20 

32 

58 

24 

09 

51.8 

68 

26 

40 

32 

58 

24 

10 

47.5 

68 

27 

30 

3.2 

58 

32 

12 

02.0 

68 

27  ' 

45 

32 

58 

20 

13 

02.5 

68 

27 

55 

32 

58 

13 

13 

52.5 

68 

28 

15 

32 

58 

10 

14 

33.5 

68 

28 

35 

32 

58 

12 

15 

26.0 

68 

28 

55 

32 

58 

10 

16 

04.0 

68 

29 

10 

32 

58 

09 

16 

40.8 

68 

29 

20 

32 

58 

02 

17 

27.0 

68 

29 

55 

32 

58 

14 

18 

06.2 

68 

30 

00 

32 

58 

8 

T 


Thermometer  50°. 

Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  581  15K 


v 


369 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

December  2 , 1846. — Camp  114,  u Warner1  sW 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m.  j Double  altitudes  of,  a Lyras,  ! Chronometer  fast. 

in  the  west.  ( 


h. 

m. 

■ 

s. 

Deg. 

min. 

l 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

2 

45 

26.8 

83 

51 

55 

8 

59 

16.0 

2 

46 

22.5 

83 

31 

10 

8 

59 

17.2 

2 

47 

17.9 

'83 

10 

05 

8 

59 

17.3 

2 

47 

56.8 

82 

54 

55 

8 

59 

16.4 

2 

48 

44.0 

82 

37 

35 

8 

59 

18  1 

2 

49 

31. 7 

82 

18 

30 

8 

59 

15.6 

2 

50 

2* *5.8 

81 

57 

55 

8 

59 

16.4 

2 

51 

13.0 

si 

40 

15 

8 

59 

16.3 

2 

51 

57.8 

81 

23 

50 

8 

59 

17.9 

Thermometer  34°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a ArietiSj 

Chronometer  fast. 

- 

in 

the  east 

h. 

m. 

s. 

V 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

2 

58 

40.8 

92 

59 

40 

8 

59 

15  6 

2 

59 

32.3 

93 

20 

50 

8 

59 

16.6 

3 

00 

24.0 

93 

42 

35 

8 

59 

16.4 

3 

01 

19.5 

94 

06 

55 

8 

59 

13.7  rej. 

3 

02 

12.5 

94 

28 

30 

8 

59 

15.2 

3 

03 

31.2 

95 

00 

55 

8 

59 

16.6 

3 

04 

19.3 

95 

21 

05 

8 

59 

16.5 

3 

05 

16.8 

95 

44 

50 

8 

59 

17.2 

3 

05 

58.5 

96 

03 

& 

20 

8 

59 

14.8 

Thermometer  36°» 


Mean  of  17  observations,  Sh.  59 m,  16A6s» 

* / 


24 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
c ember  2,  1846. — - Camjj  114,  Warner sB  » 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec. 

j 

Beg. 

rain. 

o n r* 

3 

11 

12.8 

69 

09 

55 

j 

oo 

17 

21 

3 

12 

31.8 

69 

09 

10 

! 

0,0 

16 

40 

3 

13 

33.5 

69 

09 

25 

l 

r 

Oq. 

16 

OQ 

/tar  «_/ 

o 

o 

14 

51.5 

69 

10 

55 

O O. 

oo 

17 

00 

3 

16 

28.9 

69 

14 

35 

1 - 

33 

17 

09 

3 

17 

51.0 

69 

12 

10 

33 

17 

09 

3 

18 

35.8 

69 

12 

10 

i 

33 

16 

47 

3 

20 

31.0 

69 

12 

50 

! 

33 

16 

49 

3 

21 

03.8 

69 

13 

25 

I 

Q O 

o o 

16 

58 

3 

21 

52.0  i 

69 

13 

40 

33 

16 

58 

3 

22 

23.8 

69 

13 

55 

33 

16 

59 

3 

23 

13.0 

69 

14 

10 

i 

33 

16 

59 

Thermometer  64°. 

Mean  of  12  observations,  33°  16'  57", 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 


December  8,  1846.  — Camp  118,  San  Bernardo. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 

N ' ft 


T 11X10, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Lyras, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg 

. mir 

i sec. 

« 

h. 

m. 

s . 

3 

19 

08.0 

62 

19 

00 

8 

59 

41.2 

3 

20 

28  8 

61 

49 

25 

8 

59 

40.8 

3 

21 

20 . 2 

61 

30 

20 

8 

59 

40.4 

3 

22 

17.9 

6 1 

09 

30 

8 

59 

43.6 

3 

22 

59.5 

60 

53 

55 

8 

59 

40.7 

3 

23 

46.2 

60 

36 

35 

8 

59 

40.4 

3 

24 

31.7 

60 

19 

25 

8 

59 

39.3 

3 

25 

28.8 

. , 59 

59 

20 

8 

59 

41.5 

3 

26 

08.8 

59 

44 

60 

8 

59 

40.5 

Thermometer  40°. 


Time, 

p.  Ill, 

Double  altitudes  of  a Arietis, 
in  the  east. 

. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

S . ] 

Deg 

. min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

5*. 

3 

34 

46.0 

117 

46 

30 

8 

59 

36.9 

3 

35 

41.8 

118 

09 

15 

8 

59 

37.5 

3 

36 

32.8  1 

118 

30 

15 

8 

59 

37.6 

3 

37 

13.8 

118 

47 

35 

8 

59 

36.5 

3 

38 

13.8 

119 

12 

35 

8 

59 

35.8 

3 

38 

59.6 

119 

30 

30 

8 

59 

38.1 

3 

39 

40.0 

119 

47 

25 

8 

59 

37.5 

3 

40 

34.7 

120 

09 

30 

8 

58 

38.5 

Thermometer  40°. 


Mean  of  17  observations,  8 h.  59 m.  38.9 5$. 


m 


* 


4^3  i 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
December  8,  1846.  — Camp  118,  San  Bernardo. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time,  p. 

W 

V 

m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude 

h. 

rri- 

S. 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

3 

44 

15.0 

69 

01 

30 

33 

03 

49 

3 

45 

10.0 

69 

03. 

50 

33 

03 

45 

3 

45 

45  .5 

69 

02 

00 

33 

03 

46 

3 

46 

32.2 

69 

02 

00 

33 

03 

40 

3 

47 

10.8 

69 

02 

10 

33 

03 

41 

3 

48 

00 . 8 

69 

no 

30 

33 

03 

45 

3 

48 

34.6 

69 

02 

40 

33 

03 

46 

3 

49 

25.8 

69 

02 

35 

33 

03 

38 

3 

50 

04.0 

69 

62 

30 

33 

03 

32 

T n e r in  o m e ter  40° . 

\Teaji  of  9 observations.,  33°  03'  42''. 


j 


t*y 


[7] 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 


December  15,  1846. — Camp  12QJ  Diego. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

...  v 

p.  m. 

Double  alti 
- in 

hides  of  a Areitis, 
the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h.  m . 

S. 

Deg 

. min , 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

. 3 33 

31.0 

129 

04 

15 

8 

58 

38.1 

3 34 

24.0 

129 

25 

25  • 

8 

58 

39.1 

3 35 

15.8 

129' 

46 

10 

8 

58 

39.2 

■ 3 36 

26.8 

130 

15 

40 

8 

58 

36.9 

3 37 

30.0 

139 

41 

20 

8 

58 

36.4 

3 38 

23.2 

i3  i 

02  • 

10 

8 

58 

37.8 

3%  39 

23 . 9 

131 

26 

40 

8 

58 

37.4 

3 40 

22.5 

131 

50 

20 

8 

58 

36.9 

Thermometer  50°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitude's  of  a Pegasi, 
in  the  west. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

Deg 

. min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

3 

52 

26.5 

123 

38 

45 

8 

58 

41.6 

3 

53 

43.8 

123 

11 

55 

8 

58 

41.2 

3 

54 

42.8 

122 

50 

55 

8 

58 

42.  G . 

3 

55 

34.7 

122 

33 

10 

8 

58 

40.9 

3 

56 

25 . 0 

122 

16 

45 

8 

58 

4 4.2  rej. 

3 

57 

22.3 

121 

55 

40 

8 

58 

41.6 

3 

58 

> 13.0 

121 

37 

40 

8 

58 

41.3 

3 

59 

04.5 

121 

19 

40 

8 

58 

41.9 

4 

00 

05.2 

120 

58 

10 

8 

58 

42.1 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  16  observations,  8/j.  58m.  39.65s. 


[ 7 ] 374 

APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
December  15.  1846. — San  Diego. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

5. 

Deg. 

min 

sec. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec . 

4 

17 

32.0 

68 

33 

55 

32 

45 

41 

4 

18 

27.8 

68 

33 

35 

32 

45 

30 

4 

19 

21.5 

68 

33 

55  A 

32 

45 

39 

4 

20 

49.2 

68 

33 

55 

9 o 

45 

37 

4 

21 

33  0 

68 

33 

45 

32 

45 

32 

4 

22 

09.0 

68 

o 

OO 

35 

32 

45 

27 

4 

23 

<J0.8 

68 

.33 

55 

32 

45 

37 

4 

23 

46.5 

68 

33 

30 

i 32 

45 

24 

4 

24 

28.0 

68 

34 

00 

| 32 

45 

dd 

4 

25 

12.5 

68 

33 

40 

32 

45 

30 

4 

25 

49.0 

68 

90 

o o 

50 

32 

45 

34 

4 

26 

20.8 

68 

QO 

OO 

50 

32 

45 

34 

— - f-~-  — - 


Thermometer  50°. 

Mean  of  12  observations^  32°  45'  34". 


I 


APPENDIX  No.  5- — Continued,. 

December  16?  1846.  — San  Diego . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

- ! 

p.  ni . 

Double  altitudes 

of  Geti;  i 

Latitude 

r • 

near  the  meri 

dian . 

h. 

m. 

5. 

Deg. 

s 

min . 

sec . 

De,p\ 

min . 

sec . 

6 

04 

16 . 0 

121- 

24 

45 

32 

44 

40 

6 

06 

24.2 

121 

27 

40 

44 

Q9 

cj  w 

6 

07 

36.5 

121 

28 

35 

-32 

44 

37 

0 

■08 

16.2 

121 

29 

05 

32- 

44 

35 

n 
. O 

09 

4 1 .8 

121 

OU 

40 

no 

44 

07 

r* 

0 

. 10 

•53.2 

121 

31 

20 

32 

43 

52 

O 

1.2 

04.0 

121 

3 1 

05 

32 

43 

55 

6 

1 2 

43.8 

121 

30 

29 

QO 

44 

11 

6 

13 

43.0 

121 

30 

30 

32 

43 

51 

6 

15 

08.5 

121 

23 

00- 

32 

44 

02 

N ^ 
o 

16 

02.5 

121 

26 

20 

32 

45 

51 

Thermometer  40°. 


Mean  of  11  observations,  32°  44'  1-2". 


I 


376 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
December  16?  1846. — San  Diego . 

. I ' 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  nr; 

Double  altitudes 
ran,  in  the 

! 

of  Aldeba-  j 
east. 

: 

- ~~ 

| 

Chronometer  fast. 

s 

h. 

til/  • 

5. 

Deg 

min 

1 

. sec . 

h. 

■pi. 

4 

40 

14.0 

90 

52 

50  j 

8 

58 

24.7 

4 

41 

04.8 

91 

13 

30 

8 

58 

25.6 

4 

41 

41.2 

91 

OQ 

35 

8 

58 

23.1 

4 

42 

30.5 

91 

49 

25 

8 

58 

24.7 

4 

43 

19.8 

09 

/W 

10 

00  i 

8 

58 

24.1 

4 

44 

17.5 

CO 

33 

15  ! 

8 

58 

25.6 

4 

45 

25.5 

S3 

01 

35 

Q 

O 

58 

25.1 

4 

46 

29.5 

93 

29 

15 

8 

58 

22 . 1 rej. 

4 

47 

27.2 

93 

52 

15 

1 

8 

58 

21.7  rej. 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  7 observations,  8 h.  58 m.  24.705. 


Time,  p.  m. 

j Double  altitudes  of 

- — in  the  west. 

1 

h. 

m. 

1 

«•  ! 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

5 

27 

32.5 

104 

32 

40 

5 

28 

15.2 

104 

14 

45 

5 

29 

03.8 

103 

55 

10 

5 

29 

43.5 

103 

37 

55 

5 

30 

29.6 

103 

18 

15 

5 

31 

11.0 

103 

01 

15 

5 

32 

10.5 

102 

36 

50 

o 

33 

40 . 3 

101 

58 

20 

4 

35 

21.6 

101 

16 

10 

5 

36 

09.8 

100 

56 

10 

5 

37 

06.5 

1 100 

32 

30 

Thermometer  50°. 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  5 — Continued. 
December  19?  1846. — San  Diego. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Tim©;  p. 

m. 

r 

Double  altitudes 

of  sun’s  upper  limb. 

h. 

11 

rru. 
23  ■ 

s . 

04.8 

Deg. 

48 

min.. 

00 

11 

24 

26.0 

47 

40 

11 

25 

05.8 

47 

30 

11 

25 

43.7 

47 

. 20 

11 

26 

22.5 

47 

10 

11 

27 

01.5 

47 

00 

11 

27 

38.0 

46 

50 

11 

28 

19.8 

46 

40 

11 

28 

55.7 

46 

30 

11 

29 

31.5 

46 

20 

Thermometer  64°. 


DETERMINATION  OF  INDEX  ERROR. 


Min . sec . Min . sec. 

On  the  arc . ......  ...  .\. .....  32  15  31  55 

Off  the  arc  ................  32  25  32  40 


[7] 


378 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
December  19,  1846.-- -San  Diego. 

DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time,  p.  m. 


Double  altitudes  of 
in  the  west. 


Chronometer  fast. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg 

min . 

sec. 

6 

11 

05.2 

114 

03 

10 

6 

12 

09.0 

113 

36 

25 

6 

12 

52.0 

113 

18 

15 

6 

13 

35 . 8 

112 

59 

35 

6 

14 

25.0 

112 

39 

30 

6 

15 

17.5 

■112 

19 

50 

6 

16 

10.5. 

111 

57 

30 

6 

17 

24.0 

111 

25 

30 

6 

18 

22.5 

•Til 

01 

05 

6 

19 

54.0 

110 

23' 

00 

Thermometer  50°. 


Time,  p.  m. 


Double  altitudes  of  a Orio-  ! Chronometer  fast, 

nis,  in  the  east. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

Deg . 

min. 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

s. 

6 

29 

36.8 

97 

07 

30 

. 8 

57 

49.5 

6 

30 

36.6 

97 

29 

05 

8 

57 

50.3 

6 

31 

21.2 

97 

45 

15 

8 

57 

50.5 

6 

32 

10.0 

98 

04 

05 

8 

57 

47.4 

6 

32 

56.5 

98 

19 

50 

8 

57 

51.5 

6 

33 

39.8 

98 

35 

05 

8 

57 

51.6 

6 

34 

28.5 

98 

53 

15 

8 

57 

50.0 

6 

35 

15.8 

99 

08 

55 

8 

57 

53.7 

6 

36 

00.8 

99 

25 

30 

8 

57 

52.8 

6 

36 

39.8 

99 

40 

25 

8 

57 

50.2 

Thermometer  50°. 


Mean  of  10  observations,  8 k.  b^tm.  50.75 s. 


37 


[ 7 ] 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

December  19,  1846. — San  Diego. 

1 CD 

, \ 

DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Ceti, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

' 

Beg;. 

min . 

sec. 

Beg 

. min . 

sec f 

5 

53 

16.0 

121 

27 

10 

32 

44 

18 

5 

54 

38.5 

121 

29 

45 

32 

43 

48 

5 

65 

- 44.0 

121 

30 

30 

32 

43 

48 

5 

56 

30.5 

* 121 

30 

45 

32 

"43 

53 

5 

57 

26.8 

121 

31 

00 

32 

43 

57 

6 

GO 

32.5 

121 

32 

10 

32 

43 

15 

6 

01 

16.5 

121 

32 

20 

32 

42 

59 

6 

02 

02.8 

121 

31 

5.0 

32 

42 

59 

6 

02 

53.0 

121 

30 

40 

32 

43 

10 

6 

03 

42.8 

3 21 

39 

20 

32 

43 

26 

6 

04 

51.5 

| 121 

i 

27. 

25 

Qo 

OZ 

43 

40 

Thermometer  50°. 
/ 


Mean  of  11  observations,  32°  43'  34". 


[ 7 ]-  380 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
December  20,  1846. — San  Diego. 


EXTERMINATION  OE  LATITUDE. 


Time,. 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  Polaris. 

Latitud 

h. 

m. 

s. 

Beg. 

min . 

sec.. 

Ti  prr 

min . 

sec 

6 

30 

15.2 

67 

58 

35 

32 

45 

44 

6 

31 

04.8 

67 

58 

20 

32 

45 

49 

6 

31 

51.5 

67 

57 

50 

32 

45 

45 

6 

32 

35.0 

67 

57 

10 

32 

45 

36 

6 

33 

10.8 

67 

56 

55 

32 

45 

37 

6 

36 

51.5 

67 

55 

10 

32 

•45 

37 

6 

37 

40. 1 

67 

54 

50 

32 

45 

40 

6 

38 

21.5 

67 

54 

10 

93 

45 

30 

6 

39 

09.8 

67 

54 

05 

32 

-45 

39 

6 

39 

49.8 

67 

53 

25 

' 32 

45 

30 

6 

40 

50.0 

"67 

53 

05 

32 

45 

34 

6 

41 

32.5 

67 

35 

32 

l 

45 

31 

Thermometer  45°.  / 


Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  45'  38". 


381 


m 

APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 

December  20,  1846. — San  Diego. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


Time, 

p.  m.  | 

J 

Double  altitudes  o 
in  the  west 

r 

Chronometer  fast. 

l 1 

h. 

m. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

h . m.  s. 

6 

03 

15.5, 

115 

36 

20 

6 

04 

11.2 

115 

11 

10 

6 

04 

51.5 

114 

55 

45 

8 

05 

41.5 

114 

34 

04 

8 

06 

26.5 

114 

15 

50 

6 

07 

15.7 

113 

55 

40 

6 

08 

13.2 

113 

31 

50 

6 

08 

53.2 

113 

15 

20 

6 

09 

32.8 

112 

58 

18 

Thermometer  45°. 


Time,  p . m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Orion  is1, 
in  the  east. 

. .. 

Chronometer  fast. 

| 

... 

h.  m.  s. 

Deg.  min.  sec. 

h.  m.  s. 

6 15  16.8 

93  18  55 

8 57  43.0 

6 16  18.3 

93  41  25 

8 57  44.5 

6 17  02.0 

93  58  40 

8 57  42.0 

6 17  51.5 

94  16  30 

8 57  43.5 

6 18  40.0 

94  34  50 

8 57  42.8 

6 19  30.0 

94  53  40 

8 57  42.1 

6 20  23.8 

35  13  50 

8 57  41.3 

6 21  17.8 

95  33  45 

8 57  41.6 

6 22  05.5 

95  51  10 

8 57  42.0 

' — *•••"•  ~ rr~~  • „ 

Thermometer  45°e 

Mean  of  9 observations,  8h.  him.  42.58$, 


APPENDIX  No-.  5 — Continued. 
December  21,  1846.  — San  Diego. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME. 


T 

! **  • M 

1 B 

p.  m. 

; , : 

| Double  altitude^  of  a Andro- 
medse,  in  the  west. 

! 

f 

Chronometer  fast. 

k. 

m. 

S. 

} 

Deg 

min 

sec . 

h. 

m. 

6 ' 

03 

19.2 

99 

40 

55 

8 

57 

28.3 

6 

04 

14.5 

99 

18 

10 

8 

57 

29.3 

6 

05 

00.5 

98 

58 

25 

8 

57 

28.1 

6 

05 

52.8 

98 

37 

05 

8 

57 

29.5 

6 

06 

45 .8 

98 

14 

05 

8 

57 

27.4 

6 

07 

31.0 

97 

54 

40 

8 

57 

£6.4 

6 

08 

20.0 

97 

35 

25 

8 

57 

29.3 

6 

09 

09.2 

97 

14 

50 

8 

57 

29.3 

6 

09 

52 . 5 

96 

56 

20 

8 

57 

28.6 

Thermometer  45°. 


Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Orion, 
in  the  east. 

Chronometer  fast. 

h. 

m. 

i 

s. 

Deg 

. min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

6 

16 

16.8 

95 

15 

30 

8 

57 

25.8 

6 

17 

06,8 

95 

34 

15 

8 

57 

25.1 

6 

18 

00.5 

95 

53 

50 

8 

57 

25.7 

6 

18 

57.8 

96 

15 

05 

8 

57 

25.3 

6 

19 

40.5 

96 

30 

15 

8 

57 

27.1 

6 

20 

25.7 

96 

48 

05 

8 

57 

23.3 

6 

21 

16.5 

97 

05 

30 

8 

57 

26.3 

6 

22 

06.0 

97 

23 

35 

8 

57 

26.4 

6 

23 

03.5 

97 

45 

40 

8 

57 

23.3 

Thermometer  45°. 


Mean  of  18  observations,  Sh.  57m.  26. 90s. 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
December  21,  1846. — San  Diego . 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time  ^ 

p.  m. 

j 

Double  altitudes  of  a Ceti, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

Til. 

S . 

Deg. 

min. 

sec . 

Deg. 

min . 

sec. 

5 

42 

48.0- 

121 

23 

40 

32 

44 

32 

5 

44 

04.5  • 

121 

25  ■ 

45 

32 

44 

29 

5 

45 

36 . 0 

121 

27 

05 

32 

44 

45 

5 

46 

58.0 

121 

28 

45 

32 

44 

32 

5 

48 

15.8  1 

121 

28 

45 

32 

44 

53 

5 

50 

11.8 

121 

29 

35 

32 

44 

45 

5 

51 

04.0 

121 

30 

00 

Q ,~i 
O c 

44 

30 

5 

52 

25 .7 

121 

29 

10 

32 

44 

42 

5 

53 

36.6 

121 

28 

50 

32 

44  * 

30 

5 

54 

43.0 

121 

27 

35 

32 

44 

38 

5 

56 

15.2 

121 

25 

55 

32 

44 

45 

5 

57 

26.2 

121 

23 

40 

32 

44 

51 

Thermometer  45°. 


Mean  of  12  observations,  32°  44'  39T 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued. 
December  23.  1846. — San  Diego. 


DETERMINATION  OF  LATITUDE. 


Time, 

I 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of  a Ceti, 
near  the  meridian. 

Latitude. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min . 

sec . 

Deg 

. min. 

sec . 

5 

33 

04 . 0 

121 

20 

10 

32 

44 

57 

5 

34 

05.5 

121 

.22 

45 

' 32 

44 

38 

5 

35 

16 . 0 

121 

26 

60 

32 

43 

28  rej. 

5 

36 

32.0 

121 

27 

20 

32 

44 

10 

* 5 

37 

15.0 

121 

28 

00 

32 

44 

15 

5 

38 

09.8 

121 

28 

45 

44 

20 

5 

38 

51.8 

121 

29 

05 

32 

44 

26 

5 

39 

*55.5 

121 

29 

50 

32 

44 

22 

5 

41 

06.5 

121 

29 

50 

32 

44 

34 

f; 

42 

16.2 

121 

30 

30 

32 

44 

17 

5 

44 

23.8 

121 

30 

20 

I 32 

44 

03 

5 

45 

24.6 

121 

29 

00 

32 

44 

23 

5 

46 

24.8 

121 

28 

20 

32 

44 

17 

5 

47 

33*0 

121 

27 

40 

32 

44 

00 

5 

48 

35,7 

121 

24 

40 

32 

44 

46 

5 

49 

25.8 

121 

23 

05 

32 

44 

55 

5 

50 

24.5 

121 

22 

40 

32 

44 

15 

5 

51 

09.8 

121 

21 

05 

32 

44 

18 

Index  error  -f  17. 5". 


Thermometer  54°. 

Mean  of  17  observations,  32°  44;  24". 


385 


A 


APPENDIX  No.  5— Continued, 


December  23,  1846.— San  Diego. 


DETERMINATION  OF  TIME, 


-s^ — 

Time 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Andro- 

Chronometer  fast. 

• 

medse,  in  the  west. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min. 

sec. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

5 

54 

56.5 

99 

41 

10 

8 

56 

58.0 

5 

55 

33.0 

99 

26 

10 

8 

56 

58.7 

5 

56 

16.8 

99 

07 

25 

8 

56 

57.7 

5 

57 

08.5 

98 

46 

15 

8 

56 

58.9 

5 

57 

58.2 

98 

26 

10 

8 

56 

60.4 

5 

58 

54.6 

98 

01 

50 

8 

56 

'58.9 

5 

59 

52.8 

97 

31 

20 

8 

56 

58.5 

6 

01 

23.8 

96 

59 

15 

8 

56 

58.5 

6 

02 

10.0 

96 

39 

40 

8 

56 

57.8 

Thermometer  54°. 

Time, 

p.  m. 

Double  altitudes  of 

a Orion, 

— 

Chronometer  fast. 

- — — ~ - 

in  the  east. 

h. 

m. 

S. 

Deg. 

min.  sec . 

h. 

■ 

m. 

s. 

6 

06 

25.5 

94 

42 

45 

8 

56 

54,8 

6 

07 

17.5 

95 

01 

45 

8 

56 

54.3 

6 

08 

02.5 

95 

18 

35 

8 

56 

55.1 

6 

08 

57.6 

95 

38 

35 

8 

56 

55.9 

6 

09 

47.8 

95 

56 

10 

8 

56 

58.6 

6 

10 

25.2 

96 

10 

35 

8 

56 

56.9 

6 

11 

02.0 

96 

23 

25 

8 

56 

58.7 

6 

11 

55.6 

96 

43 

45 

8 

56 

56.59 

6 

12 

43.5 

97 

01 

20 

8 

56 

56.7 

Thermometer  54@; 


Mean  of  18  observations,  8 h.  5 6m,  57 ,52s. 


25 


386 


[7] 


/ 

APPENDIX  No.  6. 


Washington  City,  October  8,  1847. 

Sir:  I have  the  honor  to  submit,  herewith,  a report  of  such  ob- 
jects of  natural  history  as  came  under  my  observation  while  I was 
attached  to  the  topographical  party,  under  your  command,  during 
the  journey  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Bent’s  Fort. 

The  plants  which  were  collected  were  submitted  to  the  inspec- 
tion of  Dr.  Torrey,  to  whom  I am  indebted  for  their  names. 

With  great  respect,  I am,  sir,  your  most  obedient  servant, 

J.  W.  ABERT. 

Lieutenant  U.  S.  Top.  Engineers . 

To.  Lieut.  W.  H.  Emory, 

U.  S.  Topographical  Engineers . 


JYotes  of  Lieutenant  J . W.  Alert. 

On  the  27th  of  June,  1846,  we  set  out  from  Fort  Leavenworth. 
The  day  was  clear  and  bright;  the  woods  were  rejoiced  with  the 
voice  of  the  mocking  bird,  and  of  the  many  little  warblers  that 
would  join  in  the  chorus  of  his  song;  the  bluebird  was  there  with 
his  sprightly  notes,  and  the  meadow  lark,  perched  on  some  tall 
mullein  weed,  caroled  forth  his  song  of  love.  As  we  were  heartily 
tired  of  remaining  quiet,  wTe  were  well  prepared  to  enjoy  the 
beautiful  scenes  that  our  progress  gradually  developed.  The 
ground  is  wThat  is  called  “rolling  prairie,”  of  gentle  curves,  one 
swell  melting  into  another. 

The  soil  around  is  extremely  rich;  the  whole  country  is  verdant 
with  the  rank  growth  of  the  “tail  grass,”  as  it  is  called  by  way  of 
eminence,  when  compared  with  that  which  grows  beyond  the  re- 
gion of  the  walnut  and  the  hickory. 

Here  are  many  varieties  of  useful  timber:  the  hickory,  the  wal- 
nut, the  linden,  the  ash,  the  hornbeam,  the  maple,  the  birch,  and 
the  beech,  also  the  cotton  wood;  but,  beyond  the  limits  of  the  “tall 
grass,”  there  is  the  cotton  wTood  only. 

Five  miles  from  Fort  Leavenworth  we  passed  a large  butte, 
called  “Pilot  Knob;”  its  top  is  flat,  and  unites  with  the  vallies  be- 
low in  a curve  like  that  of  a rope  slackly  drawn;  spreading  over 
the  valleys,  and  climbing  almost  to  the  top  of  the  butte,  we  saw 
fine  forests  of  timber,  consisting  chiefly  of  oak.  Among  the  shrubs, 
we  noticed  the  hazel,  (corylus  Americanus,)  and  the  button  bush, 
(cephalantus  occidentals;)  among  these  the  wild  grape  had  twisted 


387  [ 7 ] 

its  tendrils  and  was  growing  so  luxuriantly  that  it  was  with  great 
difficulty  one  on  horseback  could  force  his  way  through. 

On  the  hill  sides,  the  wild  rose  was  still  in  bloom,  and  mingled 
its  pink  flowers  with  the  beautiful  white  clusters  of  the  Jersey  tea, 
(ceonothus  Americanus.)  The  prairies  were  covered  with  tall 
stalks  of  the  rattlesnake  weed,  (rudebeckia  purpurea.) 

Some  of  our  mules  proved  very  refractory,  but  we  soon  con- 
quered them  with  the  aid  of  the  ulazo,”  or  cabriesto,  as  it  is  often 
called— -a  rope  of  hair,  or  plaited  hide,  50  to  60  feet  long,  in  which 
a noose  is  formed  that,  by  a skilful  hand,  is  easily  thrown  over  the 
mule’s  head,  the  noose  being  gradually  tightened,  the  animal  soon 
falls  to  all  appearance  lifeless.  Now,  the  bridle,  the  saddle,  and 
packs  are  fixed,  the  noose  loosened,  and  the  mule  rises  ready  for  the 
Journey. 

After  a march  of  twelve  miles,  we  encamped  near  a log  house, 
close  to  a fine  spring  of  cold  clear  water.  Here  we  noticed  the 
white  hickory,  or  downy  hickory,  (juglans  pubescens,)  the  chest- 
nut oak,  (quercus  primus  acuminata,)  the  spicewood,  (laurus  ben- 
zoin,) and,  deep  in  the  woods,  the  modest  May  apple,  (podoph}T- 
lum  peltatum,)  and  bloynlroot,  (sanguinaria  canadensis.) 

As  we  retired  to  rest,  the  sky  became  cloudy,  and  in  a little  time 
a plentiful  shower  of  rain  fell,  which  annoyed  us  greatly  as  it 
drove  through  our  tents. 

28 th. — During  the  early  portion  of  the  morning,  the  rain  con- 
tinued with  some  abatement,  and,  as  the  sky  showed  signs  of  clear- 
ing off,  we  commenced  making  our  arrangements  for  the  march. 
I went  down  to  a log  house  close,  by,  and,  whilst  examining  it,  was 
attracted  by  the  chirping  of  birds,  and,  on  searching,  found  that 
the  SGund  proceeded  from  the  chimney,  and  I there  discovered  a 
beautiful  nest,  in  the  shape  of  a half  basket,  firmly  attached  to  the 
chimney  walls  with  clay,  lined  internally  with  horse  hair  and  soft 
grass,  and  covered  externally  with  moss;  within  were  five  un- 
fledged birds,  their  eyes  scarcely  open,  and  at  every  sound  they 
heard  they  would  open  their  mouths  and  scream  for  food.  The 
anxious  parent  several  times  darted  down  near  my  head.  I wished 
much  to  ascertain  its  species,  but,  although  it  lit  on  the  trees  near 
the  house,  I could  not  get  near  enough  to  make  any  decision,  and, 
as  I did  not  desire  to  kill  a bird  with  young,  I bad  to  content  my- 
self with  the  name  some  of  our  people  gave  it,  to  bom  I pointed 
it  out,  and  who  called  it  the  <£grey  bird.” 

After  some  little  trouble  with  the  mules,  we  got  off  about  7 
o’clock;  the  rain  had  made  the  roads  slippery,  and  the  wheels  cut 
into  the  soft  mould  so  that  the  mules  labored  hard;  at  length  we 
reached  a sudden  rise,  where,  in  spite  of  our  efforts,  we  were  obliged 
to  remain  until  one  of  the  volunteer  teamsters,  seeing  our  diffi- 
culty, kindly  brought  us  three  yoke  of  oxen,  and  soon  drew  us  up 
the  slope.  Passing  on  over  gently  rising  and  falling  swells  and 
vallies,  with  the  delightful  breeze  that  one  almost  ajways  meets  on 
the.  prairies,  we  felt  our  spirits  rising  with  the  clearing  away  of 
the  clouds,  and  when  the  sun  broke  forth  in  splendor  the  sensa- 
tion was  truly  exhilirating.  Whenever  we  rode  to  one  side  of  the 


388 


road,  we  noticed  that  our  horses  would  frequently  sink  to  the  fet- 
lock, and  saw  on  the  ground  little  piles  of  loose  earth,  like  small 
ant  hills,  being  about  5 inches  high  and  10  or  12  inches  in  diam- 
eter at  the  base,  and  without  any  opening;  they  are  formed  by  the 
sand  rats  or  gophers,  (pseudostoma  bursarius,)  and  although  their 
habitations  cover  the  prairies,  there  are  few  persons  I have  met 
%vith  who  have  ever  seen  them. 

On  our  route  we  started  several  prairie  chickens,  (tetrao  cupida.) 
After  a march  of  11  miles  we  reached  Stranger  creek,  a romantic 
little  stream  of  water,  clear  as  crystal,  that  ripples  over  a pebbly 
bottom.  The  banks  are  high  and  composed  of  rich  loam  that 
nourishes  immense  oaks  and  sycamores,  (platanus  occidentals. ) 
The  banks  were  now  so  slippery  from  the  rain,  and  so  steep  withal, 
that  we  were  necessitated  to  unload  our  wagons  before  we  could 
achieve  the  ascent.  We  were  soon  encamped,  and  had  our  bed- 
ding exposed  to  the  sun  to  dry.  We  noticed  a great  quantity  of 
the  orange  colored  asclepias,  (asclepias  tuberosa,)  around  which 
gaudy  butterflies  were  flitting.  The  low  grounds  near  us  were 
covered  with  a prickly  button-head  rush,  (eryingium  aquaticum,) 
the  roots  of  which,  when  candied  over,  formed  the  kissing  comfits 
of  Fal  staff.  * 

The  woods  were  skirted  by  a dense  growth  of  hazel,  plum  trees, 
and  tangled  grape  vines.  Here,  too,  we  found  the  little  quail,  (or- 
tix  virginiana,)  suddenly  rising  up  from  under  our  feet,  and  startling 
us  with  the  whizzing  sound  of  its  wings.  This  evening  the  mosqui- 
toes wrere  very  numerous,  and  we  lay  down  to  be  tormented  by 
these  provoking  pests;  but  few  of  us  were  able  to  sleep,  although 
none  of  us  slept  very  comfortably  last  night. 

29 th. — Yesterday  evening,  we  found  that  the  hind  axletree  of 
our  wagon  had  been  split  in  crossing  the  creek;  and,  being  fearful 
lest  we  should  break  down  at  some  place  where  good  timber  could 
not  be  obtained,  we  sent  out  two  men  to  procure  a piece  of  tim- 
ber, and  they  soon  brought  in  a fine  piece  of  hickory,  dragging  it 
into  camp  by  the  means  of  a “ laze”  that  they  had  affixed  to  it 
and  had  then  passed  round  the  neck  of  a mule.  Luckily  for 
us,  there  was  a good  carpenter  in  the  volunteer  camp,  ai  d although 
his  tools  consisted  only  of  a saw,  an  axe,  a drawing  knife,  and  an 
auge:  he,  nevertheless,  managed  to  fashion  a very  good  axletree. 
This  work  detained  us  until  1 o’clock,  when  we  started  for  the 
Kansas  river,  having,  through  the  kindness  of  Colonel  Ruff,  ob- 
tained a new  teamster  in  place  of  the  one  who  deserted  last  night. 

The  prairie  was  yet  what  is  called  rolling;  the  flat  bottoms  were 
covered  with  the  rosin  weed  or  polas  plant,  (silplicum  laciniatum,) 
whose  pennate-parted  leaves  have  their  lobes  extending  like  fingers 
on  each  side  of  the  mid  rib.  It  is  said  that  the  planes  of  the  leaves 
of  this  plant  are  coincident  with  the  plane  of  the  meridian;  but 
those  I have  noticed  must  have  been  influenced  by  some  local  at- 
traction that  deranged  their  polarity. 

The  orange  colored  asclepias,  (A.  tuberosa,)  and  the  melan- 
ihium  virginicum,  a white-flowering  bush,  were  also  abundant. 

The  timbe~  on  the  ravines  consisted  of  the  white  oak,  (Q.  alba,) 


389 


y*t  ■■ 


black  jack  oak,  (Q.  ferruginea,)  mulberry,  (morus  rubra,)  walnut, 
(F.  nigra,)  the  hickory,  the  red  bud,  (ericis  canadensis.)  The 
nettles  (urtica  canadensis)  had  grown  to  the  height  of  7 or  8 feet, 
all  of  which  show  the  prodigal  fertility  of  the  soil. 

As  we  approached  the  Kansas  river  its  tributaries  seemed  to 
multiply  rapidly,  and  the  rolls  in  the  prairie  became  more  abrupt. 

At  3 o’clock,  we  ascended  a high  ridge  that  gave  us  a fine  view 
of  the  whole  surrounding  country.  Presently  reaching  a little 
.stream,  whose  banks  were  excessively  steep  and  slippery,  the  wag- 
ons attempted  to  ascend;  but  one  of  the  wagon  wheels  sank 
deep  in  the  mud,  and  completely  stopped  all  progress;  we  were 
therefore  obliged  to  unload  everything,  and  then  clap  all  hands  to 
the  wheel, %hen  we  rose  the  hill  amid  the  cheers  of  the  men.  A 
Frenchman,  mounted  on  a wild  mule,  had  already  crossed  and  was 
standing  on  the  western  bank,  which  is  10  or  12  feet  in  height, 
when  the  mule  suddenly  sprung  off  the  bank  into  the  creek,  just 
grazing  with  its  feet  the  head  of  one  of  the  men  over  whom  it 
passed  in  its  desperate  leap.  No  one  was  hurt,  and  the  Frenchman 
still  sat  as  firm  as  ever. 

As  we  neared  the  Kaw  or  Kansas  river,  some  of  us  went  in  ad- 
vance and  soon  reached  an  Indian  house;  the  occupants  said  they 
were  Shawfnees.  They  appeared  to  be  very  comfortably  fixed;  had 
plenty  of  fine  looking  cattle,  pigs,  and  chickens;  within  a few 
yards  of  the  house,  a clear  stream  of  good  water  spouted  forth  from 
the  side  of  a hill.  We  learned  of  the  Indians  that  the  distance  to 
the  Kaw  river  was  miles. 

Crossing  a high  ridge,  we  enter  the  Kanzas  bottom;  it  was  over- 
grown with  a tall  grass  (arundo  phragmites)  from  5 to  6 feet  high, 
and  mingled  with  this  was  the  long-leafed  willow  and  the  cotton 
vrood.  A quarter  of  a mile  from  the  river  bank,  we  entered  the 
timber,  consisting  of  the  varieties  already  mentioned;  the  ground 
on  which  it  grew  was  a deep  loose  sand  difficult  to  get  through. 

In  the  river  we  found  two  large  flat  boats  or  scows  manned  by 
Shawnee  Indians,  dressed  in  bright-colored  shirts,  with  shawls 
around  their  heads.  The  current  of  the  river  was  very  rapid,  so  that 
it  required  the  greatest  exertions  on  the  part  of  our  ferrymen  to 
prevent  the  boats  from  being  swept  far  down  the  strea  m We 
landed  just  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wakoroosa  creek.  Here  there  is 
no  perceptible  current;  the  creek  is  14  feet  deep,  while  the  river 
does  not  average  more  than  5 feet,  and  in  several  places  is  quite 
shoal. 

It  was  nearly  10  o’clock  before  all  our  company  had  crossed, 
and  was  so  dark  that  we  could  scarcely  see  to  arrange  camp;  so 
we  lay  down  on  the  river  bank  and  sent  our  horses  out  on  the 
prairie  to  graze.  W e finished  our  suppers  at  12  o’clock  and  lay 
down  again  to  sleep;  but,  worn  out  as  we  were,  tne  mosquitoes 
showed  us  no  compassion,  and  large  hooting  owls,  (bubo  virginianus,) 
as  if  to  condole  with, us,  commenced  a serenade.' 

The  pure  cold  water  of  the  Wakaroosa  looked  so  inviting  that 
some  of  us  could  not  refrain  from  plunging  beneath  its  crystal  sur- 
face; one  of  the  flat  boats  formed  a convenient  place  from  which 
to  spring.  The  sun  was  rising,  surrounded  by  golden  clouds;  ia 


390 


one  of  the  flat  boats,  three  of  the  Indians  who  had  assisted  in  ferry- 
ing us  over  were  soundly  sleeping,  and  far  away  stretched  the  grad- 
ually diminishing  trees  that  overhung  the  Kanzas  water;  the  king- 
fisher (alcedo  alcyon)  was  darting  along,  uttering  his  shrill  rattling 
scream;  flocks  of  paroquets  (centurus  Carolinensis)  were  circling 
over  head,  screaming  and  darting  amid  the  tall  walnut  and  syca- 
more trees. 

We  now  made  ready  for  our  inarch,  having  engaged  a fine  look- 
ing Indian  lad  to  go  with  the  party.  Our  horses  had  not  had  much 
time  to  eat  last  night,  and  seemed  disinclined  to  pass  'through  the 
luxuriant  grass  that  lay  on  each  side  of  our  road,  and  were  con- 
stantly trying  to  snatch  a mouthful  of  the  delicious  herbage. 

At  8|  o’clock  we  had  a glimpse  of  the  Wakaroosa  tynttes;  on  our 
right  there  was  a large  corn  field,  of  about  30  acres,  then  a line  of 
timber  stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach;  on  our  left  lay  the 
broad  rolling  prairie,  and  directly  in  front  we  could  see  the  road 
crossing  the  swells  of  the  prairie,  until  it  could  be  no  longer  dis- 
tinguished. As  we  continued  to  advance  we  found  that  our  road 
lead  us  directly  between  the  two  buttes. 

We  soon  reached  them,  and  then  saw  the  ci  divide”  that  sepa- 
rates the  waters  of  the  u Wakaroosa”  from  those  of  the  “Alaris 
des  cygnes,”  or  Osage;  (as  it  is  called  near  its  mouth;)  upon  this 
divide  the  Santa  Fe  road  is  laid  out. 

We  soon  saw  the  Oregon  trail,  which  here  unites  with  that  to 
Santa  Fe;  shortly  after  passing  the  junction  of  these  trails  we 
reached  a steep  declivity  that  forms  the  bank  of  a small  stream, 
and  noticed  that  the  Indians  had  been  working  here  for  coal;  in 
the  superincumbent  shale  we  found  traces  of  fossils  resembling  +he 
broad  flat  leaves  of  the  iris  (fridse.)  While  we  were  examining 
this  formation,  my  horse,  that  had  been  driven  almost  mad  by  the 
flies,  (tabani,)  broke  from  his  fastenings  and  rushed  into  the  creek, 
in  order  to  rol1  in  the  water,  and  thus  free  himself  from  his  tor- 
mentors; what  a misfortune!  for  my  saddle  and  pistols  were  on  his 
hack;  some  of  the  party  dashed  towards  him,  and,  springing  up,  he 
galloped  off,  scattering  all  my  accoutrements  on  the  road;  but  I re- 
covered every  thing,  even  my  pistols. 

We  continued  on  over  a broad  flat-bottom  of  marshy  land,  but 
found,  before  we  had  proceeded  far,  that  our  course  bore  too  much 
to  the  north.  We,  however,  continued  to  follow  on  in  hopes  it 
would  take  a turn,  but  were  disappointed.  As  it  was  now  late,  we 
encamped  on  the  Wakaroosa  river,  having  marched  nine  miles. 
During  the  day,  our  animals  suffered  greatly  from  the  horse- 
(tabani;)  these  flies  completely  covered  the  necks  and  shoulders 
of  the  horses  and  mules,  tormenting  them  excessively. 

Amongst  the  birds  observed  this  day,  were  the  dove,  (ecto- 
pistes  Caroliniensis;)  the  flicker,  (gieus  auratus;)  the  blue  bird, 
(sialia  Wilsonnii;)  the  hunting,  (pipilo  erythrossthalmus;)  and  the 
crow,  (corvus  Americanus.)  The  last  mentioned  birds  were  loung- 
ing near  a large  cornfield,  and  were,  doubtless,  watching  with 
interest  the  ripening  of  the  grain. 

Those  friends  of  the  prairie  voyageur,  the  cow-bird,  (meloihrus 


391  [7] 

'■  /•  ' ; ' . . ..  - / . 

pecoris,)  made  their  appearance,  and  no  sooner  had  we  picketed 
our  animals  than  those  birds  installed  them  on  their  backs. 

The  elder  (sambucus  pubescens)  was  still  in  bloom,  and  the 
orange  asclepias  still  displaying  its  gaudy  flowers,  much  to  the 
delight  of  the  brilliant  butterflies  that  sported  around  it,  and  are 
so  constantly  found  near  it,  that  it  is  often  called  the  butterfly 
plant. 

Our  camp  is  on  a high  point  which  separates  the  branches  of  a 
little  stream;  the  grass  around  is  good,  and  our  situation  high,  and 
must  bid  defiance  to  the  mosquitoes.  ■ Along  the  margin  of  the 
creek  I found  a beautiful  lily,  (lilium  tigrinum,)  of  a bright  orange 
color,  and  beautifully  dotted. 

On  July  1 we  arose  early  and  made  our  way  back  to  the  trail 
we  had  left.  After  a march  of  three  miles  we  reached  the  route 
sought  for;  we  then  rose  to  the  top  of  the  ci  divide,”  which  unites 
with  the  Wakaroosa  valley  by  a series  of  slopes  that  resemble  the 
exterior  slopes  of  parapets,  their  crests  changing  direction  sud- 
denly, so  as  to  form  sharp  angles  like  those  of  a bastion;  we 
ascended  15  feet,  and  on  taking  a bearing  back,  found  that  the 
Wakaroosa  buttes  were  north  40°  east. 

After  travelling  three  miles  further,  we  reached  the  broad  trail 
of  the  traders  from  Independence,  Missouri,  to  Santa  Fe. 

As  our  horses  moved  through  the  grass,  the  horse-flies  seemed  to 
be  shaken  from  the  spikelets,  as  the  farina  from  the  stamens  of 
corn,  when  shaken  by  the  wind;  then  rising  up,  they  covered  the 
heads  and  necks  of  the  poor  animals,  making  them  frantic  with 
pain;  they  would  rub  against  each  other,  and  stamp  their  hoofs; 
and  some  would  place  their  heads  so  as  to  get  the  benefit  of  the 
switchings  of  another’s  tail;  and  even  the  riders  were  annoyed  by 
their  desperate  efforts  to  get  rid  ©f  these  persecutors. 

Before  we  had  proceeded  far,  we  met  a man  driving  an  ox  team; 
he  had  accompanied  some  of  the  volunteer  companies  to  carry 
provisons;  and,  having  emptied  his  wagon,  he  was  now  on  his 
return.  He  told  us  that  it  was  twenty  miles  from  the  next  pool  to 
water,  so  we  determined  to  camp  soon;  and,  having  made  a march 
of  eleven  miles,  we  pitched  our  tents  on  the  very  same  spot  on 
which  we  had  encamped  one  year  previous.  Here  we  collected 
some  beautiful  flowers,  amongst  which  were  the  rudbeckia  hirta, 
and  the  delicate  bed  straw,  (galium  tinctorum.) 

The  stream  upon  which  we  were  was  then  merely  a line  of 
unconnected  pools.  The  only  trees  to  be  seen  were  some  tall 
elms,  (ulmus  Amer.,)  in  whose  tops  several  turkey  vultures 
(cathartes  aura)  were  preparing  to  go  to  roost,  while  below, 
amongst  the  willow  brush  that  bordered  the  stream,  some  cat  birds 
(orpheus  carol.)  kept  up  a low  conversation  as  they  plunged  into 
the  inmost  recesses  of  the  undergrowth. 

July  2. — As  we  had  the  twenty  mile  stretch  to  make  to-day 
without  water,  we  arose  early.  The  dew  last  night  had  been  very 
heavy,  and  we  found  little  pools  of  water  standing  on  the  tops  of 
our  mosquito  bars,  for  we  had  been  obliged  to  desert  the  tent 
■where  our  bars  could  not  be  fixed  conveniently. 


392 


The  mounds  made  by  the  gophers  or  sand  rats  were  more  abun- 
dant than  heretofore,  and  in  several  places  a number  of  these 
mounds  had  been  made  so  close  together  that  the  distinctness  of 
each  was  completely  lost  in  the  mass,  covering  an  area  of  five  or 
six  feet. 

Our  road  was  full  of  plovers,  (charadicus  marmoratus;)  they 
would  run  along  before  us  with  great  rapidity;  then  stop  until  we 
approached  quite  close,  when  they  would  run  off  again.  Thus  they 
kept  travelling  before  us  all  day.  We  shot  several  of  them,  and 
1 preserved  some  of  their  skins,  more  as  a memento  of  the  prairies 
than  as  a curiosity,  for  these  birds  are  very  abundant  in  the  Uni- 
ted States,  from  Canada  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico. 

As  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  we  heard  the  confused  hum  of 
thousands  of  grasshoppers,  now  and  then  broken  by  the  chirping  of 
the  cricket.  These  insects  are  found  in  great  abundance,  and  obtain 
greater  size  than  any  I have  seen  elsewhere.  I got  a cricket  this 
morning  that  measured  1\  inches  in  length  of  its  body. 

We  now  entered  on  the  level  prairie,  where  nothing  was  to  be 
seen  but  a wide  expanse  of  green  grass,  and  the  sky  above  filled 
with  cumulus  clouds,  the  shadows  of  which,  as  they  fell  upon  us, 
added  to  the  refreshing  effects  of  the  delightful  breeze  one  gene- 
rally meets  upon  the  the  prairie.  After  travelling  a long  distance 
over  a country,  the  irregularities  of  which  were  so  imperceptible 
that  one  almost  doubted  their  existence,  we  reached  that  position 
which  I took  to  be  the  top  of  the  divide.  Here  lay  the  half  de- 
voured carcass  of  an  ox  that  had,  doubtless,  succumbed  to  the 
fatigues  of  the  journey  and  deprivation  of  water;  for  these  ani- 
mals suffer  much  more  from  want  of  water  than  the  mule.  Some 
turkey  vultures,  sailing  above  our  heads,  showed  that  they  were  not 
ignorant  of  the  locality  of  the  carrion. 

In  a little  while  after  passing  the  ox’s  carcass,  we  reached  110 
mile  creek,  which  is  22  miles  distant  from  our  last  night’s  camp.  At 
this  creek  there  is  a fine  grove  of  timber,  containing  all  the  varie- 
ties found  in  the  vicinity  of  Kansas  river. 

About  12  o’clock  we  reached  this  creek,  and  we  here  found  the 
robin,  (turdus  migratorius,)  the  cat  bird  and  the  blue  bird;  and,  higii 
above  us,  the  swallow-tailed  hawk  (nauclerus  fuscatus)  was  sweep- 
ing round  in  graceful  circles,  its  white  head  glancing  in  the  sun- 
lioht.  I asked  the  Indian  lad  to  shoot  it  for  me  with  his  rifle:  but 

n / 

he  gazed  upwards  at  the  bird,  and  seemed  so  struck  with  the  beauty 
of  its  movements  that  he  uttered  not  a word,  but  shook  his  head 
to  signify  that  the  bird  was  too  fair  for  him  to  kill  it.  I should 
think  it  impossible  for  smaller  bir.dsever  to  escape  this  hawk,  which 
unites  the  form  and  swiftness  of  the  swallow"  with  the  boldness  and 
strength  of  wing  of  the  falcon. 

Nigh  the  banks  of  the  stream  there  was  a low  piece  of  ground 
covered  with  the  purple  monarda,  (monarda  allophylla.)  The 
gaudy  butterflies  that  I have  spoken  of  before,  as  flitting  around  the 
asclepias,  were  now  sucking  the  sweets  of  these  flowers. 

Before  we  had  fairly  pitched  our  tents,  young  Mr.  Nourse, 
of  Washington  city,  entered  our  camp.  He  had,  alone,  boldly  set 


393 


m 

off  from  Fort  Leavenworth  the  day  after  we  had  left,  determined 
to  overtake  us.  We  were  delighted  at  his  safe  arrival;  nor  were 
we  less  pleased  when  we  found  that  he  had  brought  letters  from  the 
friends  and  relatives  whom  we  had  left  behind. 

July  3. — We  arose  early  this  morning  to  gain  as  much  of  the  cool 
portion  of  the  day  as  possible,  determined  to  push  on  and  see  if 
we  could  not  get  rid  of  the  flies  that  are  so  troublesome  to 
our  horses.  The  poor  brutes  seem  to  have  no  time  to  graze;  and, 
when  picketed  out,  the}^  employ  their  feeding  time  in  rolling  in  the 
grass  and  kicking  frantically,  so  that  the  ground  resounds  with 
the  stamping  of  their  hoofs;  and,  in  taking  observations  with  the 
aid  of  the  artificial  horizon,  one  is  obliged  to  select  a spot  at  some 
distance  from  the  horses,  to  prevent  the  jar  which  they  produce 
from  disturbing  the  surface  of  the  mercury.  The  season  appears  to 
be  unusually  dry;  110  mile  creek,  which  at  this  time  last  yearwas 
full  of  water,  now  has  only  a few  scattered  pools  in  its  bed. 

All  day  we  had  a brisk  breeze  fiom  the  southwest,  making  the 
travelling  very  pleasant.  The  plover  and  cow  birds  were  playing 
along  the  road  in  front  of  us,  and  catching  the  grasshoppers  that 
were  scattered  around  in  unlimited  profusion. 

At  10  o’clock,  having  marched  15  miles,  we  reached  Independence 
creek,  so  called  by  Colonel  Fremont,  in  consequence  of  our  encamp- 
ing here  on  the  4th  of  July,  one  year  previous.  This  creek  con- 
tains the  only  running  water  we  have  seen  since  leaving  our  camp 
by  the  Wakaroosa  river.  Along  the  road  side,  I gathered  a plant 
called  lamb’s  quarter,  (chenopodium  album,)  the  plaintain  weed, 
(plantago  major,)  and  a beautiful  sensitive  plant,  with  a yellow 
flower,  slightly  resembling  the  violet,  (cassia  chamaecrista.) 

We  encamped  seven  miles  beyond  Independence  creek,  in  a ravine 
timbered  with  the  elm,  the  cotton  wood,  the  hickory  and  the  oak. 
Some  of  our  hunters  went  out  and  killed  several  wild  turkeys, 
(meleagris  gallopaoo.)  We  saw  a flock  of  curlew,  (numenius  lon- 
girostris,)  and  some  teal,  (anas  carol.) 

Saturday , July  4. — At  5J  o’clock,  this  morning,  we  crossed  the 
creek  upon  which  we  had  encamped,  and  soon  reached  an  elevated 
piece  of  ground,  from  -whence  we  could  see  our  road  crossing  a 
high  ridge  in  a direction  S.  60°  W.  Whilst  prosecuting  our  march 
we  noticed  two  distant  spots  in  the  horizon;  and,  as  we  neared  them, 
we  judged,  from  the  white  light  that  one  of  the  objects  reflected, 
that  they  might  be  mounted  men.  Before  long  we  met  them,  and 
found  our  conjectures  correct.  They  said  they  were  traders,  and 
had  been  as  far  as  Council  grove. 

At  7 o’clock,  we  crossed  a stream  of  running  water;  at  8 o’clock, 
we  reached  one  composed  of  pools,  its  banks  heavily  timbered  with 
walnut,  and  we  also  noticed  the  buckeye,  (pavia  lutea,)  and,  skirt- 
ing the  stream,  gooseberry  bushes,  (ribes  triflorum,)  and  elder.  At 
12  o’clock,  we  reached  Pvock  meek.  This  stream  is  very  appro- 
priately named,  as  its  banks  chiefly  consist  of  rock.  Near  where 
the  road  crosses  there  is  a large  pool  from  four  to  five  feet  in  depth, 
forming  a fine  bathing  place;  but  we  did  not  stop  here,  as  we  were 
anxious  to  reach  some  eminent  place  in  honor  of  the  day.  We 


394 


m 

pushed  forward  for  u Big  John  spring,55  which  we  reached  at  5 
o5clock.  Here  we  luxuriated  on  the  delightful  cool  water  of  this 
celebrated  spring,  reclining  under  the  shade  of  a tall  oak  “ sub 
tegmine  querci,55  at  whose  base  this  spring  originates;  the  tem- 
perature of  the  water  being  only  53°,  while  that  of  the  air  ranges 
above  80°. 

We  saw  to-day  two  beautiful  varieties  of  the  evening  primrose, 
(oenothera  biennis,)  the  white  and  the  yellow.  We  noticed  amongst 
the  birds  the  brown  thrush,  (orpheus  rufus,)  the  king  bird,  (musci- 
capa  tyrannus,)  the  grouse  (tetrao  cupido,)  and  the  little  quail. 

Sunday , July  5th.~We  wished,  as  we  started  this  morning,  that 
we  could  have  taken  this  spring  along  with  us,  the  water  was  so 
beautifully  clear  and  so  cold,  and  the  spring  shaded  from  distance 
around  b)  a grove  of  the  walnut,  the  sycamore,  and  the  oak,  around 
the  trunks  of  which  the  ivy  (jrhus  radicans)  clambered,  and  at  the 
roots  of  which  grew  beautiful  lychnis. 

Two  miles  from  our  point  of  departure  is  Council  grove,  where 
there  is  a fine  stream  of  running  water,  and  great  quantities  of 
quartz  and  highly  fossiiiferous  limestone. 

Shortly  before  Council  grove,  we  passed  the  grave  of  a white 
man,  who  had  been  murdered  by  an  Osage  Indian;  a circular  pile 
of  stones  marks  his  resting  place;  from  the  crevices  between  the 
stones  the  ivy  has  shot  forth;  over  the  grave  a long  pole  leans 
mournfully.  When  I viewed  this  simple  grave,  my  mind  turned  to 
the  proud  monuments  which  are  built  up  by  the  wealthy  in  our 
great  cities,  and  which  are  daily  leveled  with  the  ground  to  give 
place  to  some  improvement.  Here,  on  the  wild  prairie,  the  Indian 
and  the  rude  hunter  pass  by  this  spot,  and  not  for  worlds  would 
they  remove  one  stone. 

Continuing  our  march,  \ye  travelled  over  a distance  of  20  miles, 
when  we  reached  u Diamond  spring.55  This  is  a fine  large  spring, 
of  three  or  four  feet  across,  the  water  extremely  cold;  the  tem- 
perature of  the  spring  is  54°,  while  that  of  the  air,  the  therm  meter 
in  the  shade,  is  87° 

I procured  at  this  place  a beautiful  white  thistle,  (cnicus  acarna,) 
of  delicious  fragrance.  We  saw  a great  many  night  hawks 
(chordeiles  virgins)  and  plovers,  as  well  as  several  herds  of  deer, 
(cervus  virginianus.)  I also  collected  some  of  the  great  grasshop- 
pers of  the  prairies. 

Monday , July  Gth. — As  we  set  out  on  our  march,  the  wagon 
mules  took  a freak  in  their  heads  and  endeavored  to  run  off  with 
the  provision  wagon,  but  the  driver  turned  them  into  the  wide 
prairie,  and  soon  succeeded  in  quieti;  g them  for  a time,  but  he  had 
several  trials  for  the  mastery  before  the  day5s  march  was  over. 
After  travelling  15  miles,  we  arrived  at  “Lost  spring,55  but  did  not 
stop  as  its  appearance  was  not  inviting. 

We  noticed  near  the  road  numerous  large  puff  balls  or  fungi.,  that 
resembled,  both  in  size  and  appearance,  human  skulls  of  most 
beautiful  whiteness;  the  under  side  is  puckered  as  if  a napkin  had 
been  thrown  over  a round  bod^  and  drawn  with  a string;  the 
interior  resembles  flour,  except  that  it  coheres. 


395 


m 

Continuing  our  journey,  we  pressed  forward  rapidly,  in  order  to 
reach  Cottonwood  fork,  which  is  nearly  thirty  miles  from  the 
place  where  we  were  encamped  this  morning.  We  had  a tedious 
march  and  did  not  reach  the  creek  until  3 o’clock. 

Our  animals  were  very  much  jaded,  and  add  to'  this  that,  the 
moment  we  reached  our  goal,  myriads  of  horse  flies  attacked  our 
cavalcade  furiously.  In  the  efforts  of  the  beasts  to  rid  themselves 
of  the  flies,  they  often  became  entangled  in  the  u cabrestoes;”  we 
were  obliged  to  protect  some  of  them  by  loose  clothing;  the  mos- 
quitoes, too,  were  troublesome  to  horses  and  riders. 

Cottonwood  fork  is  a tributary  of  the  Neosha,  as  well  as  Coun- 
cil grove  creek  and  the  waters  intermediate.  This  stream  is  tim- 
bered with  large  cotton  wood  trees  that  keep  a continued  rustling 
of  their  leaves,  for  the  slightest  breeze  makes  them 'tremble. 

We  noticed  here  thickets  of  the  elder  (S.  canadensis)  in  full 
bl  com.  The  beautiful  monarda  (M.  allophyla)  covered  the  low 
portions  of  the  banks  of  this  stream,  while  on  the  little  sand  bars, 
and  close  to  the  water’s  edge,  a dense  growth  of  the  long  leaved 
willows  overhung  the  clear  water,  in  which  sported  the  black  bass., 
the  cat  fish,  and  the  sun  fish.  Just  where  the  road  crosses,  there 
is  a fine  pool  of  water,  from  five  to  six  feet  deep  and  twelve  feet 
wfide, 

Tuesday , July  7. — We  concluded  that  it  would  be  best  to  remain 
here  for  the  day,  as  our  animals  looked  much  harrassed  by  what 
they  have  already  undergone.  We  employed  ourselves  in  getting 
all  our  affairs  arranged  in  complete  order;  for  we  expect  that  this 
is  the  last  stop  that  we  shall  make  for  some  time  to  come.  Every- 
thing was  overhauled,  our  clothes  were  all  washed,  and  all  those 
arrangements,  such  as  a journey  of  this  kind  suggest,  but  which, 
our  continued  movement  did  not  permit  us  to  accomplish?  were  this 
day  executed. 

Around  our  camp  the  ground  looked  golden  with  the  different  va~ 
rities  of  the  golden  rod,  (solidago,)  and  along  the  stream  we  saw 
box  elder,  (acer  negundo,)  and  extended  thickets  of  plum  bushes. 

Not  far  from  the  camp  we  saw  some  antelope,  (dicranocerus  fur- 
cifer,)  so  we  sent  out  an  old  voyageur  with  the  Indian  hunter  in 
pursuit  of  them;  but  they  returned  unsuccessful,  and  reported  that 
the  antelope  were  extremely  shy. 

About  4 o’clock  several  companies  of  volunteers  made  their  ap- 
pearance, and  until  it  was  quite  late  we  heard  the  tramp  of  horses, 
the  clashing  of  sabres,  and  jingling  of  spurs;  at  last  they  all  ar- 
rived, and  the  camp  was  quiet,  save  the  howl  of  the  sentinel 
wolf. 

Wednesday,  July  8. — At  5 o’clock  this  morning  we  were  on  the 
route  for  the  Turkey  creeks;  they  are  three  in  number,  and  unite  a 
few  miles  below  the  points  where  our  road  crosses  them;  the  day 
was  pleasant,  for  the  sky  was  overcast. 

We  had  now  reached  the  short  grass,  that  is  not  more  than  four 
or  five  inches  in  length,  and  we  saw  little  patches  of  the  true  buf- 
falo grass,  (sesleria  dactyloides,)  a short  and  curly  grass,  so  unique 


396 


m 

in  its  general  character  that  it  at  once  catches  the  eye  of  the  trav- 
eller. 

On  either  side  of  us  we  observed  little  circular  spots  marking  the 
places  where  the  buffalo  once  wallowed;  for  these  huge  animals  have 
a habit  of  throwing  themselves  on  their  sides  upon  the  ground; 
they  then  commence  walking,  as  it  were,  with  their  feet  on  the 
circumference  of  a circle;  this  causes  their  bodies  to  revolve,  and 
thus  result'circular  depressions  in  the  prairies;  these,  after  a rain,  are 
for  a long  time  filled  with  water,  with  which  the  traveller  is  often 
fain  to  slake  his  thirst. 

These  old  wallows  are  now  overgrown  with  plants  that  grow 
more  luxuriantly  than  on  other  portions  of  the  prairie.  There  is 
the  splendid  coreopsis  (coreopsis  tinctoria)  and  the  silver  margined 
euphorbia;  (euphorbia  marginata;)  these  at  once  arrest  the  at- 
tention. 

It  is  seldom,  now,  that  the  buffalo  range  this  far;  no  signs  of  old 
excrements  are  to  be  seen,  and  the  bleached  bones  left  upon  the 
plains  by  the  hunter  have  long  since  mouldered  away.  Towards 
the  close  of  the  day  we  found  the  frontal  bone  of  a buffalo’s  skull, 
the  only  sign,  in  addition  to  the  wallows,  of  this  animal  having- 
been  once  abundant. 

Along  the  road  were  numbers  of  the  beetle,  laying  in  their  win- 
ter stores,  “hand  nonignari  aut  incauta  futuri.”  W estopped  to 
noon,  at  11J  o’clock.  After  a halt  of  half  an  hour,  we  started 
again,  and  at  12|  o’clock,  formed  our  camp  on  Turkey  creek. 
Here  not  a stick  of  timber  is  to  be  seen,  but  we  found  some  beau- 
tiful plants  with  brilliant  scarlet  flowers  (malva  pedata)  and  roots 
which  are  eatable.  We  also  obtained  specimens  of  the  pomme 
blanche,  (psoralea  esculenta,)  and  in  the  waters  of  Turkey  creek 
we  caught  some  sun  perch  and  catfish. 

The  men  killed  several  rattlesnakes  near  our  camp,  and  one  a 
grey  snake,  marked  with  a row  of  blackish  spots  along  the  back; 
it  is  said  never  to  exceed  two  feet  in  length,  and  is  called  the 
grey  rattlesnake.  Before  dark,  the  sky  became  black  with  clouds, 
whose  appearance  was  soon  followed  by  a heavy  shower  of  rain. 

This  day,  9th,  at  daylight,  we  struck  our  tents  and  commenced 
our  march;  heavy  clouds  were  at  intervals  passing  over  us  and 
completely  deluging  us  with  rain.  When  the  rain  would  cease, 
we  would  stop  a few  moments  and  let  our  animals  rest.  We 
noticed  some  buffalo  skulls  near  the  road;  they  must  have  lain 
here  many  years,  as  they  were  crumbling  to  pieces.  At  3 o’clock 
we  reached  the  Little  Arkansas,  a tributary  of  the  great  river 
the  name  of  which  it  bears.  This  stream  is  from  five  to  eight  feet 
in  width,  and  averages  five  inches  in  depth;  on  its  banks  were 
some  large  elms  and  box  elder;  we  also  saw  the  common  elder, 
(sambucus,)  narrow  leafed  willow,  and  the  grape,  (vitis  aestivalis,) 
the  sorel  (oxalis  stricta)  and  lamb’s  quarter,  (chenopodium  album,) 
grew  near  the  stream. 

The  rain  had  ceased  as  we  entered  camp,  and  as  the  ante- 
lope appeared  abundant  and  at  no  great  distance,  Menard  was 


397  [ 7 ] 

sent  to  shoot  some  of  them,  but  his  gun  had  got  so  wet  during  the 
day  it  would  not  fire. 

We  noticed  to-day  the  pink  sensitive  plant  (schrankia  uncinata) 
of  most  delicious  fragrance,  so  that  my  hat,  into  which  I had 
thrust  some  specimens,  was  pleasantly  perfumed.  With  this  plant, 
we  also  found  a white  variety,,  (darlingtonia  brachypoda,)  the 
flowers  and  leaves  are  smaller  than  the  plant  first  mentioned,  and 
has  no  odor. 

Late  in  the  evening  several  of  the  volunteer  companies  came 
up;  they  said  they  were  suffering  for  want  of  provisions;  as  the 
commissary  waggons  had  got  on  too  far  in  advance,  they  sent  for- 
ward to  have  some  of  them  return.  But  we  were  all  suffering 
ifom  a cause  that  produced  in  some  of  us  feelings  more  unpleasant 
than  hunger;  the  blowfly  had  peopled  our  blankets  with  living 
masses  of  corruption;  it  is  said  that  these  insects  were  never  before 
seen  so  far  out  in  the  prairies. 

Friday , 10 th. — -It  is  still  raining,  the  clouds  are  chasing  each 
other  rapidly  across  the  sky,  and  now  and  then  the  rain  pours 
heavily  down.  We  remained  in  camp  some  time  waiting  for  the 
rain  to  stop.  V/ e thus  lost  several  hours,  but  we  found  travelling 
in  the  prairies  rather  increased  the  chafing  of  our  animals.  We 
noticed  to-day  some  swallows,  (hirundo  bicolor,)  also  the  turtle 
dove,  the  little  quail,  the  blue  jay,  (garulus  cristatus,)  and  the 
king  fisher  (alcedo  alcyon.) 

We  collected  some  lamb’s  quarter  and  had  it  cooked,  and  no- 
ticed along  the  road  side  the  purslane,  (portulaca  oleracea;)  this 
also  would  answer  for  the  table  of  the  prairie  voyageur.  Our 
day’s  journey  was  16  miles. 

Saturday  11  th. — We  were  up  this  morning  at  3^  o’clock,  and 
ready  for  the  start.  Our  arrangement  of  mosquito  bars  was 
broken  in  upon  last  night  by  a heavy  shower  of  rain  that  forced  us 
to  retreat  to  our  tents. 

After  marching  three  miles,  we  reached  Cow  creek;  it  was  very 
difficult  to  cross  on  account  of  the  miry  bottom,  but  we  got  safely 
over  without  great  delay.  Before  we  had  proceeded  far,  we 
caught  sight  of  the  “plum  buttes,”  bearing  N.  20°  W.  We  passed 
through  a large  village  of  prairie  dogs,  (Arctomys  Ludoviciana;) 
although  now  deserted,  there  were  fresh  signs  of  the  dogs  having 
thrown  out  some  earth  from  their  excavations.  Last  night’s  rain 
had,  doubtless,  forced  them  to  leave  their  houses.  In  the  ponds 
that  had  settled  on  the  plain,  we  saw  several  craw  fish,  and  the 
crickets  were  gathered  around  some  ant  hills.  As  our  wagons 
moved  along  the  road,  the  lizards  (lacerta  lineatus)  were  darting 
rapidly  along  the  ruts  in  front  of  it,  anxious  to  escape  being 
crushed.  The  common  land  turtle  (testudo  clausa)  were  also  very 
abundant.  As  we  got  quite  near  the  Plum  buttes,  we  caught  sight 
of  the  buffaloes,  (bos  americaxms,)  and  some  five  or  six  of  our 
party  immediately  gave  chase.  The  buffaloes  ran  around  in  a 
circle  of  three-fourths  of  a mile  in  diameter;  so  those  who  were 
near  the  centre  of  this  circle  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  chase. 
Holster  pistols  were  the  only  arms  used,  and  we  soon  had  the  plea- 


[ 7 ] * 398 

sure  of  seeing  one  of  the  animals  fall;  the  other  then  turned  off 
into  the  wide  prairie. 

Near  the  buttes  we  collected  some  beautiful  Gaillardias  of  differ- 
ent species.  Gaillardia  amblyodon  and  G.  pinnatifida  we  found 
abundant  over  the  remainder  of  our  day’s  route.  After  a march  of 
eight  miles  more  we  reached  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas  river,  where 
we  encamped.  Here  we  found  a large  train  of  wagons,  belonging 
to  Messrs.  Hoffman,  of  Baltimore* 

Sunday , July  12.— We  left  the  Arkansas  and  marched  to  Wal- 
nut creek,  wnere  we  found  Mr.  Hoffman’s  party,  they  having 
started  before  daybreak.  We  here  noticed  the  prairie  gourd 
(cucumis  perennis)  and  the  cactus,  (cactus  opunta;)  also  the 

pinette  de  prairie,”  or  liatris  pychnostachia,  with  a great  abun- 
dance of  the  common  sunflower,  (helianthus  annuus;)  the  bright 
scarlet  malva  (malva  pedata)  and  the  silver  edged  euphorbia,  (E. 
marginata;)  also  the  purslane,  the  convolvulus  (ipomen  lepto- 
phylla)  rudbeckia  hirta,  and  a species  of  cockle  burr;  and  on  all 
sides  the  little  mounds  of  loose  earth  thrown  up  by  the  gopher, 
(psedostoma  brissarius.) 

We  left  Walnut  creek  at  3 o’clock,  and  entered  upon  vast  plains 
of  the  buffalo  grass,  (sesleria  dactyloides.)  After  a march  of  11 
miles  we  camped  within  five  miles  of  the  famed  Pawnee  rock.  Our 
camp  was  a mile  from  the  river;  but  we  drove  our  horses  to  water 
and  got  our  buckets  filled.  As  there  was  no  wood,  we  used  the 
a bois  de  vache,”  and  lay  down  near  the  smoke  of  the  fires  to  avoid 
the  mosquitoes.  We  had  no  sticks  to  support  our  mosquito  bars. 
When  we  first  arrived,  the  country  around  was  covered  with'  buf- 
falo, but  it  was  too  late  in  the  day  to  hunt;  we  therefore  lay 
down  quietly  with  the  intention  of  having  a fierce  chase  in  the 
morning. 

July  13 th. — Last  night  we  had  a terrible  serenade  from  a large 
drove  of  prairie  wolves,  (canis  latrans.)  These  animals  alv/ays 
hang  on  the  heels  of  the  buffalo,  to  pick  up  the  infirm  and  those 
the  hunters  have  wounded,  as  well  as  to  prey  on  what  is  left  of  the 
slaughtered.  \ 

We  got  off  in  good  time,  and  Lieutenaut  Emory,  in  company  of 
one  of  our  hunters,  started  for  the  buffalo.  We  saw  the  chase;  as 
the  herd  would  divide,  and  let  the  horsemen  pass  through,  we  heard 
the  rumbling  sound  of  their  rna^y  feet;  but  at  last  they  crossed  the 
bluff  that  extends  towards  the  north  from  Pawnee  rock,  and  were 
lost  to  our  view.  Lieutenant  Emory  killed  one  of  the  herd;  but 
our  hunter  came  into  camp  empty  handed.  We  halted  a short  time 
to  pack  the  buffalo  meat,  and  then  proceeded  to  Ash  creek.  This 
creek  was  dry,  so  we  continued  our  route  among  herds  of  buffalo 
that  were  continually  dashing  across  our  road,  and  at  length  reached 
Pawnee  fork  after  a march  of  18  miles. 

The  waters  of  this  creek  were  so  Jiigh  that  we  could  not  cross; 
the  trees  along  the  sides  of  the  banks  were  half  hidden;  the  whirl- 
ing eddies  were  rushing  along  with  great  velocity;  the  willows  that 
grew  on  the  banks  were  waving  under  the  strong  pressure  of  the 
water,  and  brush  and  large  logs  were  hurriedly  borne  along  on  the 


399 


[7] 

turbid  bosom  of  the  stream.  We  therefore  camped  by  the  side  of 
the  creek  to  await  the  subsiding  of  its  waters.  The  country  around 
was  covered  with  the  (cucumis  perennis)  prairie  gourd,  and  we 
found  it  to  be  infested  with  those  little  striped  insects  that  so  much 
annoy  the  farmer  in  the  United  States,  by  the  ravages  they  commit 
amongst  the  young  vines. 

This  creek  is  timbered  with  the  elm,  (ulmus  Americana,)  and 
the  box  elder,  (aceo  negimdo.)  We  frequently,  during  the  day, 
noticed  the  purslane  and  the  u pinette  de  prairie;”  in  the  low 
grounds  the  splendid  coreopsis  and  the  euphorbia  were  displaying 
their  beauties;  and  on  the  uplands  the  prickly  pear  was  seen  in 
great  abundance,  but  it  had  passed  its  bloom. 

During  the  afternoon  a man  by  the  name  of  Hughes  was  drowned 
in  attempting  to  cross  the  stream;  there  were  two  men  with  him  at 
the  time,  but  the  current  was  so  violent  that  it  soon  swept  him  out 
of  reach.  His  friends  brought  his  clothes  to  our  camp,  where  they 
left  them  until  they  could  recover  the  body. 

We  saw  to-day  large  flocks  of  the  tropical  or  yellow-headed 
blackbird,  (agelajus  xantocephalus,)  also  the  common  blackbird, 
(quis  caius  versicolor,)  and  the  Baltimore  oriole,  (icterus  Balti- 
more.) 

July  14 Hi. — We  were  obliged  to  remain  here  all  day,  still  wait- 
ing the  pleasures  of  the  waters.  In  the  meanwhile  I set  one  of 
the  men  to  work  to  dig  up  a root  of  the  beautiful  prairie  convol- 
vulus, (ipomea  leptophylla.)  This  man  worked  for  several  hours, 
for  the  ground  was  extremely  hard,  so  that  he  was  at  last,  obliged 
to  tear  it  up,  leaving  much  of  the  top  root  behind.  This  root-  ex- 
tended for  about  one  foot  and  of  not  more  than  one-half  inches  in 
diameter,  then  it  suddenly  enlarged,  forming  a great  tuber,  2 feet 
in  length  and  21  inches  in  circumference.  The  Cheyenne  Indians 
told  me  that  they  eat  it,  that  it  has  a sweet  taste,  and  is  good  to 
cure  the  fever.  They  called  it  badger’s  food,  and  sometimes  the 
man  root,  on  account  of  its  great  size,  for  they  say  some  of  them 
are  as  large  as  a man.  We  also  procured  here  the  Mexican  poppy, 
(argemone  Mexicana;)  noticed  quantities  of  a willow  brush,  and 
several  specimens  of  the  tooth-ache  tree,  (near  zanthoxylum  fraxi- 
num.)  This  morning  Laing  brought  me  a very  large  toad,  (rana 
musica,)  far  exceeding  any  I ever  before  have  seen.  During  the 
day  I made  a sketch  of  the  country  around  our  camp;  the  most  re- 
cognisable feature  is  the  bluff  just  on  the  west  side  of  the  stream, 
close  to  the  ford. 

In  the  evening  some  of  us  went  over  to  visit  Mr.  Hoffman’s 
camp;  one  of  the  gentlemen  attached  to  the  party  had  just  returned 
from  his  first  hunt,  having  killed  four  fat  cows  and  brought  in  their 
tongues.  Thus  far  we  have  noticed  several  plants  that  have  been 
so  common  that  I have  neglected  to  mention  them.  One  is  the 
lead  plant,  or  tea  plant,  (amorpha  canescens,)  and  is  in  some  places 
so  abundant  as  to  displace  almost  every,  other  herb;  the  other  is 
what  our  men  call  prairie  indigo,  (baptisia  leucantha,)  it  bears  a 
large  black  cylindrical  pod,  filled  with  kidney-shaped  seed. 

July  Ihth.—' This  morning  we  commenced  making  a raft,  deter- 


[ 7 ] - 400 

mined  to  wait  no  longer,  and  by  sundown  had  completed  a raft  of 
dry  wood,  capable  of  bearing  1,000  pounds  without  being  over- 
loaded. The  men  worked  with  great  energy,  and  it  was  truly  ex- 
citing to  see  them  straddle  the  huge  logs  and  floaty  down  in  the 
rapid  current  whose  waters  were  rushing  along  with  such  a fierce  ra- 
pidity, dimpling  the  surface  of  the  stream  with  miniature  whirpools, 
and  making  the  willows,  now  covered  midway  by  the  inundating 
waters,  bend  and  spring  as  if  moved  by  a hurricane.  Sometimes 
rafts  of  brush  and  loose  logs  came  rushing  along,  but  the  men  stuck 
fast  to  the  logs  they  bestrode,  screaming  out  in  wild  excitement, 
as  if  to  drown  the  gurgling  sound  of  the  wild  waters. 

To-day  we  saw  several  large  white  cranes  with  black-tipped 
wings;  (grus  Americanus,)  and  Laing  killed  me  some  rattlesnakes, 
(crotalus  horridus)  and  several  prairie  snakes.  Along  the  creek 
we  found  an  abundance  of  plums  (prunus  virgins)  and  cherries. 

Thursday , 16£A. — As  our  raft  was  now  completed  we  commenced 
crossing  aU  our  camp  equipage,  and  by  -11  o’clock  everything  was 
safely  transferred  to  the  south  side  of  the  stream.  We  were  obliged 
to  carry  over  much  less  at  a time  than  we  had  hoped  to  have  done, 
for  our  raft,  built  of  the  dryest  wood  that  we  could  find,  became 
water  logged.  The  elm  and  box  elder  were  the  only  trees  we  could 
get,  and  when  green  their  specific  gravity  is  but  little  less  than 
that  of  water.  The  wagon  body  was  placed  upon  the  raft  to  dis- 
tribute the  weight  that  might  be  placed  in  it  equably.  A rope  was 
stretched  across  on  which  a noose  could  slide,  and  this  noose, by  a long 
rope,  was  attached  to  our  raft  to  prevent  its  being  swept  away  in  case 
the  stretched  rope  should  break.  This  precaution  proved  most 
wise,  as  the  rope  did  break,  but  the  knots  upon  it  prevented  the 
noose  from  sliding  off,  and  our  craft  swung  round  into  an  eddy 
where  it  was  comparatively  calm. 

We  now  proceeded  to  cross  our  cavalcade;  some  of  the  horses 
were  first  driven  and  went  bravely  over;  others  were  very  trouble-* 
some,  but  at  length,  seeing  their  companions  enjoying  the  luxuriant 
grass,  they  all  plunged  in  and  arrived  safe  on  the  opposite  side. 
Some  had  to  struggle  hard  to  get  up  the  banks,  that,  in  addition  to 
their  steepness,  were  covered  with  a thick  coating  of  mud,  depos- 
ited by  the  waters.  It  was  a beautiful  sight  to  see  some  of  the 
fin  est  of  our  horses  spring  from  the  high  banks  of  the  stream,  to 
see  the  splash  of  spray  as  it  showered  around  when  the  horse  dis- 
appeared, and  again  to  see  the  noble  animal  rise  above  the  wave, 
snorting  and  dashing  the  waters  from  his  mane,  as  he  swam  for  the 
opposite  shore.  Our  Indian  lad  seemed  to  enter  into  the  spirit  of 
the  scene;  he  seized  the  cabresto  of  one  of  the  wildest  horses  and 
dragged  him  down  into  the  water;  running  out  upon  the  raft,  he 
stood  for  a moment,  and  then  plunged  into  the  stream,  throwing 
his  arms  alternately  as  he  dashed  across.  It  is  in  such  scenes  as 
this  that  the  Indians  excel;  their  fine  limbs,  dark  hair,  and  flashing 
eye  lend  all  the  imagination  could  desire  to  perfect  the  wild  grace 
of  motion,  the  picturesque  of  attitude  that  such  occasions  develope. 

The  water  had  fallen  nearly  3 feet  during  the  past  night,  ana  as 
it  still  continued  to  fall,  the  troops  commenced  crossing  at  the 


401  [ 7 ] 

regular  ford,  which  is  one-fourth  of  a mile  above  us;  but  lost  sev- 
eral of  their  horses.  To-day,  the  man  who  was  drowned  yester- 
day was  buried,  his  body  having  been  found  by  our  men  engaged 
in  rafting.  His  friends  sent  to  us  for  his  clothes  in  which  to  bury 
him;  and,  before  the  sun  went  down,  he  was  deposited  in  his  long 
resting  place:  u requiescat  in  pace.’7 

At  11  o’clock,  Colonel  Doniphan  came  to  our  camp  and  informed 
us  that  General  Kearny  wished  to  see  us.  We  afterwards  learned 
that  the  general  had  some  inquiries  to  make  in  regard  to  the  route 
by  the  Smoky  Hill  fork;  a route  that  Lieutenant  Peck  and  myself 
had  travelled  when  we  were  attached  to  the  command  of  Colonel 
Fremont;  but  the  roughness  of  that  country,  the  absence  of  all 
roads,  and  the  scarcity  of  water  and  wood,  and  the  poverty  of  the 
pasturage,  render  the  Arkansas  river  route  much  to  be  preferred. 

At  3 o’clock  we  commenced  our  march,  and  soon  struck  a road 
that  we  pursued  until  near  10  o’clock  at  night,  when  we  encamped 
near  some  pools  of  water,  having  been  made  aware  of  our  approach 
to  them  some  time  before  they  were  in  sight,  by  the  cry  of  the  kill- 
deer  plovers,  (charadrius  vociferous.)  ¥vr e soon  kindled  our  fires  of 
iC  bois  de  vache,”  and  then  found  we  had  camped  in  a prairie 
dog  village;  a bad  place  for  picketing  horses,  as  the  neighborhood 
is  generally  destitute  of  grass.  On  our  march  we  obtained  a sin- 
gular species  of  cactus,  resembling  roundish  bodies  covered  with 
long  protuberances,  wnose  tips  were  crowned  with  stars  of  white 
spines,  (near  mammilarea  sulcata.) 

We  saw  during  the  day  many  skylarks;  (alanda  alpertris;)  they 
allowed  us  to  approach  quite  close  before  they  took  wing  and  as 
they  flew  through  the  air  sang  sweetly. 

Friday , Ylth. — We  have  now  entered  that  portion  of  the  prairie 
that  well  deserves  to  be  considered  part  of  the  great  desert.  The 
short,  curly  buffalo  grass  (sesleria  dactyloides)  is  seen  in  all  di- 
rections; the  plain  is  dotted  with  cacti  and  thistle,  (carduus  lan- 
ceolatus,)  while  only  in  buffalo  wallows  one  meets  the  silver  mar- 
gined euphorbia;  and  in  the  prairie  dog  villages,  a species  of  ascle- 
pias,  wdth  truncated  leaves. 

We  saw  several  wild  horses;  in  one  group  there  were  three,  and 
with  our  spy  glasses- we  had  a fine  opportunity  for  examining  them. 
There  was  a bay,  a roan,  and  a black;  they  stood  for  some  time 
gazing  at  us  as  if  completely  absorbed  in  looking  at  the  strange 
sight,  when,  as  we  approached,  they  raised  their  long  flowing  tails 
and  dashed  off  with  their  long  manes  waving  round  their  necks,  and 
with  a speed  that  soon  carried  them  out  of  view.  Unlike  the  mus- 
tangs, these  looked  to  be  large  and  beautifully  proportioned. 

Buffaloes  seemed  as  if  trying  to  surround  us.  We  saw  scarcely 
anything  else  far  or  near.  The  whole  horizon  was  lined  with  them, 
and  their  figures  would  sometimes  shoot  up  to  an  immense  height, 
as  their  change  of  position  caused  the  visual  rays  to  pass  through 
mediums  of  different  refracting  power,  while  seeming  lakes  would 
spring  into  existence,  whose  farthest  shore  seemed  widely  sepa- 
rated from  us  by  the  broad  volume  of  water  that  intervened. 

There  were  many  dusky  wolves  (canis  nubilus)  prowling  around 

26 


402 


m 

the  buffalo;  the  latter  paid  no  regard  to  them,  but  let  the  wolves 
approach  without  showing  the  least  repugnance,  although  the 
wolves  devour  the  young  calves  and  attack  the  cows  at  certain 
periods  when  they  are  least  able  to  defend  themselves.  This  species 
of  wolf  does  not  congregate  in  large  packs  like  the  prairie  wolf, 
but  roams  solitary. 

This  evening  five  Pawnee  Indians  came  into  our  camp.  They 
were  on  foot,  naked,  and  had  their  faces  painted.  As  our  party 
was  very  small,  and  we  knew  from  the  behavior  of  these  fellows 
that  there  were  plenty  of  Indians  near  us,  we  changed  our  posi- 
tion for  one  more  defensible.  All  our  horses  were  picketed  close 
to  the  camp;  the  cabrestoes  were  shortened;  wagons  and  tents  ar- 
ranged, so  as  to  form  a compact  ring;  the  arms  examined  and  the 
guard  doubled;  the  whole  camp  was  in  a state  of  watchfulness, 
momentarily  expecting  an  attack.  I lay  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  night  by  the  side  of  a wagon,  with  my  rifle  across  the  tongue, 
constantly  expecting  to  see  some  redskins  crawling  amongst  our 
horses;  but  the  night  was  undisturbed,  save  with  the  howling  of 
wolves  and  the  bellowing  of  buffalo. 

Saturday , 18 th. — This  morning,  as  soon  as  it  was  light,  we  saw  a 
large  band  of  buffalo,  not  more  than  300  yards  from  us,  walking 
slowly  to  the  ponds  close  by;  they  were  to  the  west  of  us,  and  as 
the  wind  did  not  blow  towards  them  they  paid  but  little  regard  to 
our  proximity. 

Some  of  the  patriarchs  of  the  band  were  on  the  lead;  they  were 
all  moving  with  slow  and  measured  tread,  as  if  attending  a funeral. 
Now  and  then  some  of  them  would  cast  a sinister  glance  towards 
us,  but  still  continued  to  move  on  with  the  same  slow  pace.  I 
got  my  spy-glass  in  order  to  examine  them  with  great  minuteness, 
and  thence  commenced  making  sketches.  Soon  there  was  a gene- 
ral commotion  amongst  the  buffalo;  they  raised  their  tails,  tossed 
their  heads  into  the  air;  now  and  then  the  bulls  would  dash  at  each 
other,  when  suddenly  the  whole  band  separated  into  small  dense 
groups  that  scampered  off  to  the  four  winds  of  heaven.  We  instinc- 
tively grasped  our  guns,  not  knowing  whether  friend  or  foe  might 
appear,  and  soon  saw  a number  of  horsemen  urging  their  jaded 
steeds  under  the  pricky  spur.  At  every  touch  the  impatient  riders 
gave,  the  tails  of  the  wearied  horses  were  thrown  into  the  air,  and 
the  slow  gait  at  which  they  moved  showed  that  they  had  been  riding 
fast  and  far.  They  were  pursuing  a buffalo  of  immense  size,  ap- 
parently wounded;  the  buffalo  now  turned,  but  his  intended  victim 
shyed,  and  as  the  horsemen  passed  by,  we  saw  the  smoke  of  seve- 
ral shots  burst  forth;  the  horsemen  now  turned,  and  ere  long  the 
buffalo  lay  extended  upon  the  ground.  We  saw  them  all  dismount, 
and  in  a little  while  after  Captain  Karsons  rode  into  our  camp.  We 
inquired  the  position  of  the  main  body,  which  we  were  anxious  to 
rejoin,  for  ourselves  were  suffering  from  the  harrassing  night  we 
had  passed,. and  our  horses  were  suffering  from  our  being  necessi- 
tated to  picket  them  so  closely  for  fear  of  Indians;  and  both  our- 
selves and  our  horses  daily  suffered  from  want  of  water.  As  we  were 
moving  along,  a band  of  buffaloes  ran  towards  us;  but  as  they  passed, 
kent  off  some  distance,  running  parallel  with  the  road.  Our  Indian. 


403 


friend  noticed  them,  and  as  they  passed,  dismounted,  stooped  down, 
and  drew  up  his  rifle;  as  the  smoke  burst  forth  from  the  muzzle  of 
his  piece,  we  saw  a fine  buffalo  cow  lash  her  heels  high  in  the  air, 
and  then  continued  to  jump  and  kick  for  a quarter  of  a mile  or 
more,  when  she  fell  and  all  the  rest  of  the  herd  gathered  around 
her.  We  already  had  the  meat  of  two  fat  cows,  and  as  the  wag- 
ons  were  so  far  from  the  place  where  the  cow  had  fallen,  she  was 
left  to  feed  the  wolves. 

The  ruts  of  the  road  were  full  of  little  lizards,  sunning  themselves; 
as  we  approached  they  would  dart  briskly  away,  manifestly  disin- 
clined to  play  the  part  of  devotees  to  Juggernaut. 

In  crossing  to  the  river  we  found  the  ground  in  many  places  co- 
vered with  beautiful  gallardias  (g.  amblyodon)  and  the  eupatorium, 
while  in  the  moist  grounds  we  saw  the  curious  dodder  twining  in. 
its  golden  tendrils  all  the  plants  that  grew  around  it,  forming  an 
inextricable  entanglement. 

Among  the  birds,  we  saw  many  of  the  sky-larks  and  several  avo- 
sets  (recuroirostra  ames.)  The  tail  and  its  coverts  white,  wings 
black  and  white,  legs  blue,  and  bill  recurved. 

When  we  first  struck  the  river,  we  met  with  Major  Clark’s  bat- 
talion of  artillery,  a fine  body  of  troops,  well  uniformed  and  of  sol- 
dierly bearing. 

Having  marched  a few  miles  along  the  river  bank,  wTe  formed  our 
camp,  after  travelling  this  day  a distance  of  19  miles. 

Sunday , July  19 th. — Marching  along  the  Arkansas  bottom  one  is 
struck  with  the  variety  of  swamp  grasses.  Here  we  find  the  trian- 
gular grass,  (scirpus  triguctio,)  and  mingled  with  it  in  great  abund- 
ance the  scouring  rush  (equisetum  hyemale)  and  the  beautiful  lia- 
tris  (liatris  spicata.) 

After  we  had  started,  I went  back  three  miles  to  meet  Gen.  Kear- 
ny in  order  to  get  some  one  to  go  with  us  and  show  us  the  exact  location 
of  the  capture  of  the  party  of  Texans  by  Capt.  Cooke,  2d  dragoons, 
in  1843.  General  Kearny  detailed  Lieutenant  Love,  who  showed 
us  the  spot  that  we  sought.  On  the  south  side  of  the  river,  there 
is  a large  grove  of  cotton  wood  trees  that  extends  some  distance 
along  the  river  bank,  and  is  the  first  grove  of  any  size  that  the 
traveller  west  meets  after  passing  Pawnee  fork,  which,  by  the 
route  we  came,  is  64  miles  distant. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  General  Kearny’s  camp  to  get  some  of 
The  horses  shod.  We  had  expected  to  have  gone  not  more  than 
three  or  four  miles,  but  only  reached  them  after  a ride  of  eight 
miles,  so  deceived  were  we  with  regard  to  the  distance  by  the  pu- 
rity of  the  atmosphere.  As  it  was  quite  late,  we  concluded  to  re- 
main here  until  the  camp  should  overtake  us  in  the  morning. 

Monday ,20^A. — This  morning  we  had  not  marched  far  when  we  saw 
General  Kearny’s  guard  stop  and  encamp.  Soon  Lieutenant  Emory, 
who  had  crossed  the  river,  rode  over  and  informed,  us  that  Gen- 
eral Kearny  was  very  ill,  and  ordered  one  of  our  wagons  to  remain 
for  the  purpose  of  conveying  the  general  on  by  easy  stages;  for 
our  wagon  was  light  and  had  good  springs,  while  all  the  other  wa- 


[7]  . 404 

gons  with  the  army  were  without  springs  and  roughly  built,  like 
common  Santa  Fe  trade  wagons. 

This  day  we  made  a march  of  31J  miles,  passing  along  the  top  of 
a barren  ridge,  between  one  and  two  miles  from  the  river.  No- 
thing was  to  be  seen  but  the  curly  buffalo  grass,  now  parched  by 
the  summer’s  heat.  The  sun  poured  down  his  rays  most  lavishly; 
the  men  all  dismounted  and  walked,  in  order  to  rest  and  to  re- 
lieve themselves  from  the  singular  sensation  produced  by  the  heat. 
First  one  and  then  another  of  the  party  became  ill,  and  several 
were  seized  with  a severe  vomiting. 

In  the  evening  I went  over  to  Major  Clarke’s  camp,  in  order  to 
have  an  axletree  made.  There  I saw  many  who  appeared  to  be  ill; 
amongst  them  were  Captain  Weightman  and  Lieutenant  Dorn. 

I returned  to  our  camp  and  passed  a sleepless  time,  listening  to 
the  footsteps  of  the  guard;  and,  now  and  then,  the  conversation  of 
the  French  boys  broke  upon  the  stillness  of  the  night;  they,  too, 
were  not  able  to  sleep  soundly'.  We  were  all  extremely  anxious 
with  regard  to  General  Kearny’s  health. 

Tuesday , July  21st. — This  morning  we  presented  quite  a sorry  look- 
ingarray  of  human  faces.  At  day-break  I was  seized  with  a vomiting, 
which  lasted  some  time;  I was  obliged  to  send  for  the  doctor.  I 
however  determined  to  push  forward  in  compliance  with  the  order 
of  Lieutenant  Emory,  who  was  with  General  Kearn)r,  and  commit- 
ted myself  to  the  wagoner’s  care,  while  Lieutenant  Peck  took  com- 
mand of  the  camp.  Lying  here,  my  eye  roved  over  but  a con- 
fined prospect;  under  me  were  bundles  of  bedding,  with  blankets, 
red,  blue  and  white;  near  me,  a sick  man,  languidly  gazing  upward; 
above  me,  the  bended  bows  of  the  wagon  that  supported  a large 
white  cover,  through  which  the  sun  beat  with  intense  heat;  and,  in 
front,  through  a little  hole,  one’  caught  sight  of  the  landscape 
dancing  to  and  fro  as  the  wagon  jolted  along. 

We  formed  our  camp,  after  a march  of  11  miles,  at  the  Santa  Fe 
crossing,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Major  Clarke’s  battalion  of  artil- 
lery, so  that  we  could  have  an  opportunity  of  completing  our  axle- 
tree  that  we  began  yesterday.  We  soon  saw  our  wagon,  and 
learned  that  General  Kearny  had  perfectly  recovered. 

At  this  place  we  obtained  some  beautiful  purple  lilies,  (eustoma 
russeliana,)  and  Mr.  Nourse  brought  me  a psoralia,  with  a monose- 
palous  calyx.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  there  are  several 
Indian  bodies,  wrapped  in  blankets  and  skins,  exposed  on  plat- 
forms of  lodge  poles,  high  up  in  cottonwood  trees,  where  they  are 
safe  from  wolves  and  the  sacrilegious  touch  of  men.  The  air  of 
the  prairie  produces  rapid  desiccation,  and,  in  this  respect,  resem- 
bles that  of  Egypt  and  the  islands  of  the  ancient  Guanches. 

From  the  21st  of  July  until  our  arrival  at  Bent’s  fort,  on  the  29th, 
being  all  the  time  sick,  I have  no  recollection  of  anything  that 
transpired,  excepting  a drawing  that  I made  of  the  sand  rat,  (pseu- 
dostoma brissarius.)  The  body  and  legs  are  covered  with  yellow- 
ish brown  hair,  plumbeous  at  the  base;  belly,  white;  anterior  claws, 
strong  and  large;  posterior  claws,  short;  iris,  black;  ear,  projecting 
slightly.  On  each  side  of  the  upper  jaw  are  two  exterior  pouches3 


1 4-5  inches  in  depth;  tail  covered  with  short  hair,  a little  less 
in  length  than  one  half  the  length  of  the  body;  body  about  6 inches 
in  length.  The  pouch  is  covered  with  short  white  hair,  and  capa- 
ble of  being  turned  inside  out.  This,  I think,  was  a young  one; 
hence  the  slight  differences  in  the  size  and  the  color  of  its  legs,  and 
the  tail  being  covered  with  hair. 

Captain  Turner,  of  the  1st  dragoons,  brought  me  a (ortygometra 
carolinus;)  these  birds  are  in  plenty  along  the  Arkansas  bottom; 
this  one  was  caught  after  a short  chase,  for  it  flew  a short  distance 
only,  when  it  appeared  to  be  too  much  fatigued,  or  too  much 
bewildered  to  rise  again. 

Of  the  plants  that  occur  between  the  Arkansas  crossing  and 
Bent’s  fort,  I cannot  do  better  than  refer  to  the  list  appended  to 
this  report,  in  which  they  are  arranged  in  the  family  to  which 
they  belong,  and  the  locality  mentioned  in  which  they  were 
obtained. 

As  one  approaches  Bent’s  fort,  he  meets  with  many  varieties  of 
artemisia,  with  the  obione  canescens,  and  a plant  wThich  is  ex- 
tremely useful  to  the  Mexicans  as  a substitute  for  soap,  by  them 
called  the  palmillo,  by  us  Adams  needle,  or  Spanish  bayonet;  its 
botanical  name  is  the  yucca  angustifolia.  We  also  have  the 
prairie  gourd,  (cucumis  perennis;)  that  is  abundant  also  from  Bent’s- 
fort  to  Santa  Fe.  We  have  the  bartonia,  several  varieties  of 
solanas,  several  varieties  of  cenothera,  the  martynia,  the  cleome, 
the  salicornia,  ipomea,  and  erigonums.  Amongst  the  trees,  several 
varieties  of  populus;  amongst  which  are  the  populus  canadensis 
and  p.  monolifera;  several  varieties  of  salix,  and  the  plum  and 
cherry. 

Amongst  the  animals,  we  have  the  panther,  (felis  concolor;)  the 
wild  cat,  (felis  rufa;)  the  white  wolf,  (canis  nubilus;)  the  prairie 
wolf,  (canis  latrans;)  the  silver-grey  fox,  (canis  cinerea  argentus;} 
and  the  prairie  fox,  (canis  velox;)  prairie  dog,  (arctomys  ludo- 
viciana;)  the  gopher,  (pseudostoma  brissarius;)  the  antelope,  (dicra- 
nocerus  furcifer;)  the  grey  bear,  (ursus  ferox;)  also  a species  of 
vespertitia  and  species  of  ground-squirrel;  it  is  said  that  there  are 
three  different  varieties.  Along  the  Arkansas,  where  there  is  suffi- 
cient cover,  one  finds  the  red  deer,  (cevus  virgin.,)  one  also  finds 
the  badger,  (taxus  labradoricus;)  and  the  polecat,  (mephitis 
Amer.)  The  Indians  at  the  fort  showed  me  a racoon  (procyon 
lotor)  skin,  they  said- had  been  obtained  in  the  neighborhood. 

Amongst  the  birds,  the  turkey  vulture,  (cathartes  atra;)  wild 
turkey,  (meleagris  gallipavo;)  quail,  (ortix  virgina;)  red-headed 
woodpecker,  (picus  erythrocephalus;)  meadow  lark,  (sturnella 
ludoviciana;)  night  hawk,  (chorodeiles  virgins;)  cow-birds,  (molo- 
thrus  pecoris;)  dove,  (ectopistes  carolin;)  flickers,  (picus  au- 
ratus;)  raven,  (corvus  corone;)  and  the  railtailed  buzzard,  (batco 
borealis.)  There  has  also  been  found  on  the  Arkansas,  within 
eight  miles  of  Bent’s  fort,  a singular  and  but  little  known  bird* 
called  the  pasana,  (geococyx  viaticus.)  * 


406 


m 

RANUNCULACEJE. 

Clematis  Yirginiana.  Raton  pass  and  the  mountain  passes  near 
Santa  Fe. 

Delphinium  azureum.  Raton  pass. 

Podophyllum  peltatum.  Woods  near  Kanzas  river,  and  at  Coun- 
cil grove. 

Ranunculus  acris.  Near  the  Wakaroosa  buttes. 

Thalicterum  cornute.  Near  Pawnee  fork. 

Anemone  Pennsylvaniana.  Between  “El  Rio  Canadian”  and 
«E1  Rio  Moro.” 

Ranunculus  aquatalis.  Found  in  the  “ Raton  creek”  and  head 
■waters  of  the  Purgatory  creek. 

MENISPERMACEiE. 

Menispermum  Canadense.  Near  “Big  John  spring.” 

PAP  AVER  ACEiE. 

Argemone  Mexicana.  First  seen  at  “ Pawnee  fork,”  thence  on 
to  the  Moro. 

Sanguinaria  Canads.  Woods  near  the  Missouri  and  Kaw 
livers. 

CAPPARIDACEtE. 

Polenisia  graveolens.  Near  “ Bent’s  Fort,”  and  in  the  valley  of 
the  Timpas. 

Cleone  intequifolia.  At  “ Big  Sandy  creek,”  u Bent’s  Fort,”  and 
Canadian. 

VIOLACEiE. 

Viola  cucullata.  Banks  of  “ Pawnee  fork.” 

CARYOPHYLLACEiE.  . 

Lychnis.  Woods  of  Council  grove. 

HYPERICEiE. 

4 

Hypericum  ellipticum.  August  11. 

• PORTULACEiE. 

Portulacca  oleracea.  By  the  road  side  from  “Pawnee  fork”  to 
the  crossing  of  the  Arkansas. 


407 


H] 


LINACEiE. 

Linum  regidum.  From  u Pawnee  fork”  to  u Arkansas  crossing,” 

GERANICEiE. 

Geranium  Fremontia.  Occurs  throughout  the  u Raton  pass.” 

OXALIDACEJE. 

Oxalis  violacea.  Near  Council  grove. 

— stricta.  From  Kaw  river  to  Council  grove. 

ANACARDIACEiE. 

Rhus  glabrum.  Bank  u Kaw  river”  and  Wakaroosa  river, 
radicans.  Woods  at  u Big  John  spring.” 
near  R.  aromatica.  August  13. 

MALVACEAE. 

Sphaeralcae  stellata,  Torr.  and  Gr , u Raton  pass”  and  u Rio 
Canadian.” 

Sida  coccinea.  Arkansas  river  and  El  Rio  Canadian, 

Malva  pedata.  Cottonwood  fork  and  bottoms  of  Arkansas  river. 
Sida,  (new  species.)  Aughst  17. 

VITACEJE. 

Yitis  aestivalis.  Along  the  Arkansas  river  and  Purgatory  creek, 
riparia.  Stranger  creek, 
vulpina.  110  Mile  creek. 

RHAMNACEiE. 

Ceanothus  ovalis,  var.  intermedia , {Torr.  and  Gr.)  Kaw  river  and 
Council  Grove. 

Americanus.  Fort  Leavenworth. 

ACERACEiE.  » 

Acer  negundo.  Banks  of  Pawnee  fork. 

LEGUMINOSEiE. 

Astragalus.  Bent’s  fort  and  Ocate  creek. 

Glycyrrhiza  glabra.  Arkansas  river. 

Gymnocladus  Canads.  Kaw  river. 

Petalostemum,  (new  species.)  At  u Ojo  Vernal.” 

Psoralea  esculenta.  u 110  Mile  creek”  and  along  the  Arkansas 
river. 


408 


[7]’ 

Robinia  pseudo  acacia.  Purgatory  creek,  near  the  Raton  pass. 
Baptisia  lencantha.  As  far  as  Pawnee  fork. 

Cassia  chameecrista.  First  seen  July  3,  thence  to  the  Arkansas 
crossing. 

Petalostemum  candidum.  High  prairies,  as  far  as  Bent’s  Fort. 

yiolaceum.  With  the  preceding. 

Psoralea  floribunda.  Pawnee  fork. 

Dalea  laxifolia.  With  the  preceding. 

Lathyrus  linearis.  August  9. 

Amorpha  canescens.  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Pawnee  fork. 
Schrankia  uncinata.  Stranger  creek  to  Arkansas  crossing. 
Darlingtonia  brachy-loba.  Pawnee  fork  and  110  Mile  creek. 
Glycyrrhiza  lepidota.  August  13. 

Cereis  Canads.  Kanzas  river. 

ROSACEJE. 

Cerasus  Virginiana.  Kanzas  river,  Arkansas  river,  and  Purga- 
tory creek. 

Fragaria  Yirginiana.  Kaw  river. 

Rubus  occidentalis.  Missouri  river  and  Kaw  river, 
villosus.  With  the  preceding. 

Prunus  Amer.  Pawnee  fork,  Arkansas  river,  and  Canadian, 
river. 

Cralcegus  coccineus.  Stranger  creek. 

Rosa  lucida.  Kaw  river. 

ONAGRACEiE. 

CEnothera.  Several  species  occur  from  Kaw  river  to  Bent’s  Fort. 
Gaura  coccinea.  August  13. 

LOASEiE. 

Mentzelia  nuda.  Bent’s  Fort  and  valley  of  the  Timpas. 

GROSSULARIACEiE. 

Ribes  accreum.  Purgatorv  creek  and  Timpas,  near  its  head, 
triflorum.  Diamond  spring. 

CACTACEtE. 

Opuntia  Missouriana.  Pawnee  fork,  Purgatory  creek,  and  Cana- 
dian river. 

Mammillaria  sulcata.  Near  Pawned  fork. 

CORNACEiE. 

Cornus  paniculata.  Big  John  spring, 
stolonifera.  Stranger  creek. 

Florida.  Kaw  river. 


m 


CAPRIFOLIiE. 

Symphoncarpus  glomeratis.  Purgatory  creek. 

occidentalis.  With  the  preceding. 

Symphora  racemosa.  Big  John  spring. 

UMBELLIFERJE. 

Sium  latifoliura.  Diamond  spring. 

Angelica.  Head  water.  Purgatory  creek. 

Eryngium  aquaticum.  Near  Wakaroosa  creek. 

RTJBXACEiE. 

Galium  tinctorum.  Ponds  near  Lost  spring. 

Cephalanthus  occidentalis.  Strangqr  creek. 

COMPOSITE. 

Senecio  (near)  palustris.  Raton. 

filifolius.  Bent’s  fort  to  Santa  Fe. 

Rudbeckia.  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Arkansas  crossing. 

hirta.  Lost  spring  to  Jackson’s  grove* 

Erigeron  strigonium.  Pawnee  fork. 

Eupatorium  purpureum.  Turkey  creek,  Arkansas  crossing,  and 
'Bent’s  fort. 

Eurotia  lanata.  Rio  Canadian  to  Santa  Fe  and  south. 

Fremontia  vermiculs.  Yalley  of  the  Timpas. 

Grindelia  squarrosa.  Arkansas  river,  near  the  crossing. 

Solidago  altissima.  Bent’s  fort. 

Solidago.  Cotton-wood  fork. 

Liatris  spicata.  Crossing  of  the  Arkansas  river, 
squarrosa.  Plum  buttes. 

Silphium  lacenatum.  From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Cottonwood. 
Coreopsis  tinctorea.  Turkey  creek  to  Bent’s  fort. 

Asters.  With  the  preceding. 

Gaillardia  amblyodon.  Plum  buttes,  and  on  the  Moro. 

With  the  preceding.  (Leaves  lanceo- 
late.) 

piumatifida. 

Helianthus.  Abundant  from  Coro  creek  to  Santa  Fe. 
dentatus.  At  San  Miguel. 

ERICACEAE. 

Arctostaphylos  uranasi.  Council  grove. 

LOBELIACEiE. 

Lobelia  leptostacliza.  Cottonwood  fork, 
cardinalis.  Bent’s  fort. 


m 


410 


CAMPANULACEiE. 

Campanula  rotundifolia.  Raton  pass. 

OLEACEiE. 

Fraxinus  Americanus.  Ash  creek. 

APOCYNACE^E. 

Apocinum  androsacmifolium.  Lost  spring. 

ASCLEPIADACEiE. 

Asclepias  verticillata.  Stranger  creek  and  Pawnee  fork. 

tuberosa.  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Cottonwood  fork. 

CONVOLVULACEiE. 

Ipomea  leptophylla.  Walnut  creek  to  the  Canadian  river. 
Cuscuta  Americana.  In  the  bottoms  near  the  “caches.” 
Convolvulus.  (Near  sepium.)  August  14. 

Euploca  convolvulaceae.  Raton  pass. 

BORAGINACEiE. 

Myosotis  glomerata.  Arkansas  river,  near  caches. 

POLEMONIACEiE. 

Gilia  (cautua)  longiflora.  Raton  pass. 

LABIATiE. 

Hedeoma  leptophylla.  Near  crossing  of  Arkansas. 

Monarda  fistulosa.  Near  caches. 

allophylla.  110  creek;  Cottonwood  fork. 

Mentha  peperita.  Bent’s  fort- 

Salvia  azurea.  Arkansas  bottoms  and  New  Mexico. 
Teucrium  Yirginicum.  Pawnee  fork. 

SOLANACEiE. 

Solanum  nigrum.  Bent’s  fort. 

triflorum.  Arkansas  river,  near  crossing. 

Nycterum  lobatum.  From  the  caches  to  Bent’s  fort. 
Physalis.  August  4. 

lobatum.  Near  Bent’s  fort. 


411 


[7] 


■«  , 

SCROPHULARIACE^E. 

Pedicularis  canads.  Near  Pawnee  fork. 

CHENOPODIACEiE. 

Chenopodium  album.  From  Fort  Leavenworth  to  crossing. 
Fremontia  vermicularis.  Purgatory  creek  and  Timpas. 
Artemisia.  Purgatory  creek. 

Obione  canescens.  Valley  of  the  Timpas. 

Salicornia  Jierbacea.  Arkansas  river  crossing. 

VERBENACE^E. 

Verbena  pinnatifida.  Rio  Canadian  and  Rio  Rayado. 

angustifolia.  Little  Arkansas  river. 

Lippia  cuneifolia,  From  Pawnee  fork  to  Santa  Fe. 

CUCURBITACE^E. 

Cucumis  perennis.  From  Walnut  creek  to  Santa  Fe. 

NICTAGXNEiE. 

Oxybaphus,  (new  to  me.)  Torr.  Slender  branching  spears.  aRi@ 
los  Animas.53 

nictaginea.  Raton  and  aRio  Canadian.53 

POLYGONACEiE, 

Erigonum.  Walnut  creek. 

tomentosum.  Council  grove. 

Polygonum,  (long  lacerated  sheath,  no  flowers.)  Walnut  creek, 
amphibium.  Turkey  creek. 

LAURACEiE. 

Laurus  benzoin.  Kaw  river  and  Council  grove. 

EUPHORBIACEiE. 

Euphorbia  marginata.  Pawnee  fork  to  Bent’s  fort, 
hypericifolia.  Turkey  creek. 

? By  the  road  side,  near  the  ^caches,35  and  in  the 
buffalo  wallows. 

Croton  capitatum.  Crossing  of  the  Arkansas  river. 


m 


412 


URTICACEJE. 

/ , , 

Humulus  lupulus.  Raton  pass  and  Canadian  jiver. 

Morus  rubra.  Council  grove  and  Kaw  river. 

IJrtica  canadensis.  Kaw  river  and  Stranger  creek. 

XJLMACEiE. 

Ulmus  Americana.  Pawnee  fork. 

Celtis  crassifolia.  Woods  at  Council  grove. 

AMENTACEJE. 

Salix  longifolia.  Council  grove,  110  Mile  creek. 

(no  flowers  or  fruit.)  Arkansas  river. 

Populus  monolifera.  Timpas,  at  head  of  Purgatory  creek, 
canadensis.  From  Kaw  river  to  Santa  Fe. 

(new  to  me.)  Torr.  Rio  Canadian. 

Salix  augustifolia.  Arkansas  river. 

CONIFERS. 

Juriiperus  Yirginica.  Timpas,  and  from  Purgatory  creek  to  Santa 
Fe. 

(different  from  Yirginica.)  Torrey.  Near  Santa  Fe. 
Pinus  monophyllus.  Raton  pass  to  Santa  Fe. 
rigida.  As  above. 


413 


[7] 


IONOC0TYIED0NQUS  OR  ENDOGENOUS  HANTS- 


ALISMACEiE. 

\ 

Sagittaria  sagittifolia.  Head  of  Timpas. 

melantSaceas. 

Melanthuim  Yirginicum.  - Stranger  creek  and  Wakaroosa  river. 

LILACEiE. 

Yucca  angustifolia.  From  Bent’s  fort  to  “Fra  Cristobal.” 
Lilium  tigrinurn.  Wakaroosa  river. 

Enstoma  Ruseliana.  Bottom  of  Arkansas  and  Canadian. 

Alluim  vienale?  Raton  pass. 

JTJNEACEfE. 

Juncus  tenuis.  Raton  pass. 

COMMELINACEfE. 


Tradescantia  Yirginica.  Fort  Leavenworth  to  “ 110  Mile  creek.” 
rosea.  With  the  preceding. 

Commelina  angustifolia.  Pawnee  rock  and  Raton  pass. 

(long  accuminated  spatha.)  Raton. 

SMILACEHC. 

Smilax  rotundifolia.  Kaw  river,  Council  grove,  and  110  Mile 
creek. 


CYPERACEfE. 


Scispus  triqueter.  Low  grounds  near  Arkansas  crossing. 

atrovirens.  Pawnee  fork. 

Cyperus  filiculmis.  Little  Arkansas. 

Carex  festuca.  Wakaroosa  river. 


GRAMINEiE. 


Arundo  phragmites.  Arkansas,  Timpas,  and  Canadian  rivers, 
Sesleria  dactyloides.  Pawnee  fort  to  Bent’s  fort. 


414 


m 


Agropyrum.  Stranger  creek. 

Atheropogon  olygostachium.  Canadian  river. 
Koeleria  nitida.  Pawnee  fork. 

EQUISETACEiE. 

» 

Equisetum  hyemale.  Near  crossing  of  the  Arkansas. 


'S 


T i' 


415 


[7] 


APPENDIX  No.  7. 


Washington,  December  6,  1847. 

Sir:  I have  the  honor,  at  your  request,  to  address  you  a brief 
memoir  on  the  subject  of  the  district  of  country  in  Sonora,  Mexico, 
which  I passed  over  in  November  and  December  last,  with  a wagon 
train,  when  I deviated,  in  search  of  a practicable  route,  from  the 
mule  trail  of  Brigadier  General  S.  W.  Kearny,  on  his  march  from 
New  Mexico  to  California. 

When  he  turned  off  from  the  Rio  Grande,  opposite  the  copper 
mines  and  the  heads  of  the  Gila  river,  I kept  the  river  for  thirty 
miles  to  the  south,  and  making  a southern  bend,  turned  again 
towards  the  north,  and  struck  his  route  (as  surveyed  by  Mr.  Emory 
of  your  corps)  just  above  the  village  of  the  Pimo  and  Maracopa 
Indians,  an  estimated  distance  of  444  miles. 

Immediately  below  the  point  of  deviation,  on  the  Rio  Grande, 
the  country  bordering  the  river  became  sensibly  flatter  and  less 
broken.  I left  the  river  when  in  view  of  a point  marked  on  the 
common  maps  as  u San  Diego,”  and  the  distant  view  towards  u El 
Paso”  proved  the  country  to  be  unbroken  and  comparatively  level. 

From  the  high  valley  of  the  river  I ascended  to  the  table  land 
of  Mexico,  by  an  almost  insensible  slope  over  smooth  prairie.  For 
150  miles  on  this  smooth  level  table  land,  which  is  studded  with 
isolated  hills  or  mountains,  I journeyed  without  any  difficulty, 
passing  over  but  three  hills,  in  two  cases,  I know,  in  the  third,  I 
believe,  unnecessarily.  I then,  unexpectedly  and  suddenly,  arrived 
at  a great  break  off  to  a lower  level  of  country,  the  descent  to 
which  was  very  broken  and  rough  mountains  for  fifteen  miles.  I 
found,  however,  that  I had  at  that  moment  fallen  into  an  old 
wagon  trail,  which  led,  I was  told,  from  Yanos.  I was  able  to  get 
my  wagons  through,  following  a stream  all  the  way,  and  descend- 
ing in  the  15  miles  possibly  a thousand  feet.  This  was  the  head  of 
the  Huaqui  river,  which  empties  into  the  California  gulf.  I was 
told  that  this  was  called  the  Pass  of  Guadaloupe. 

I then  passed  an  unbroken  country,  about  80  miles,  when  I fell 
upon  the  Jose  Pedro  river,  which  empties  into  the  Gila.  I de- 
scended this  without  difficulty  of  ground  about  80  miles.  In  turn- 
ing off  there  is  an  ascent  to  nearly  level  country  of,  perhaps,  above 
an  hundred  feet,  but  it  could  be  made  very  gradual.  It  is  then  about 
48  miles  to  Tueson,  a town  of  about  500  inhabitants  with  a fort 
and  garrison.  This  distance  is  over  much  smooth  ground,  main- 
taining the  same  general  level.  Tueson  is  in  a rich  and  well  cul- 
tivated valley,  where  there  is  also  a dense  forest  of  maguey . 
From  Tueson  it  is  some  75  miles  to  the  Gila.  It  is  a level  plain, 
generally  of  clay,  where  my  wagons  and  footmen  (water  being 
very  scarce)  passed  at  the  rate  of  about  30  miles  a day. 


[7]-  416 

On  the  map  which  I made,  and  which  is  in  your  bureau,  is 
marked  a route  considerably  to  the  north  of  Guadaloupe  pass, 
which,  some  of  my  guides  believed,  would  avoid  that  broken  de- 
scent, and  be  fouud  to  be  nearly  level  throughout  to  San  Pedro,  at 
the  point  where  I turneM  off  from  that  beautiful  little  river.  The 
most  sensibleand  experienced  of  these  men,  Laroux,  wholivesin  Taos, 
[New  Mexico,  and  who  had  trapped  on  the  Gila  and  passed  in  a 
different  direction  over  that  country,  was  decidedly  of  this  opinion, 
but  his  knowledge,  on  the  other  hand,  was  sufficient  to  forbid  to 
explore  it,  in  my  situation,  on  account  of  scarcity  of  water. 

The  Rio  Grande  bottoms  for  a hundred  miles  above,  and  at  the 
point  where  I left,  are  well  timbered;  there  is  no  timber  on  the 
table  land,  save  upon  the  small  mountains  which  are  everywhere 
to  be  seen;  this  is  cedar  and  pjne,  but  of  small  growth.  Rock  is 
everywhere  to  be  bad,  secondary  rocks  of  almost  every  kind;  but 
by  this  wonderfully  level  route,  the  continent  may  be  passed  with 
'scarcely  a view  of  granite.  As  far  as  Tueson  the  gramma  grass  is 
abundant;  it  will  fatten  cattle  while  working,  and  in  winter.  The 
route  from  Tueson  passes  through  a country  abounding  in  exceed 
ingly  rich  gold  mines. 

I am,  very  respectfully,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

P.  ST.  GEO.  COOKE, 

Major  2d  Dragoons. 

To  Col.  J.  J.  Abert, 

Topographical  Engineers. 


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